A GUIDE TO

MRAUK - U

An Ancient City of Rakhine, Myanmar

By

Tun Shwe Khine (M.A)

First Edition 1992 Historical Sites in Mrauk-U Aerial view of Mrauk-U I

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Published by U Tun Shwe, Registrar (1) Sittway Degree College, Sittway. Registration No. 450/92 (10) 1992 Nov. 13. Art Adviser and Make-up U Kyaw Hla, Editor, University Translation & Publications Dept., Yangon. Photographs by Ko Tun Shaung, University Translation & Publications Dept., Yangon. Typeset by Shwe Min-Tha-Mee Computer, No. 9 (E), Thalawady Road, 7th mile, Yangon. Printed by U Tha Tun (03333), Nine Nines Press,

25, Razadirat Road, Botahtaung, Yangon. Tha Tun (03333) Cover Registration No. (413/92) (12), printed by U First Edition Jan: 1993, 2000 Copies.

Cover - Dukkhanthein Shrine at Sun'set THE GOLDEN CITY OF MRAUK-U The Author Tun Shwe Khine was born in Rambyae, Rakhine State in 1949; graduated from Yangon University in 1972 and obtained master degree in Geography in 1976. He has served as a tutor in Yangon Worker's College; assistant lecturer and registrar (2) in Sittway Degree College. Now he is the Registrar (1) of Sittway Degree College. He has written several research articles and books, and edited some books, magazines and journals.

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Some of his works excluding articles are as follows: (1) Rakhine State Regional Geography (in Myanmar), (2) Ancient Cities ofRakhine (in Myanmar), (3) The History of Rakhine Dynasty (in Myanmar), (4) The Thet Tribe in Northern Rakhine (in Myanmar), (5) Rakhine Buddhist Art in Vesali Period (in Myanmar), (6) Rakhine Folk-Tales (in Myan- mar), (7) Earlier Writers in Rakhine (in Myanmar), (8).4 Study ofRakhine Minthami Aye-gyin (in Myanmar), (9)The History of Rakhine Mahamuni (in Myanmar and English) and (10) Historical Sites in Rakhine (in English).

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CONTENTS

Preface Pagoda 62, Anoma Pagoda 62, Minpaung

Pagoda 62, Mahabodhi General Information ... 13 Shwegu, 62,

Ratanasanraway Pagoda 63, Ratanamhan- The Land, the People and the Name... 17

kin Pagoda 63, RatanathinkhaPagoda 63, The Old Capitals of Rakhine ... 20 Ratanamanaung 63, Mingalamanaung

The Golden City of Mrauk-U ... ?" Pagoda64, Nan-Oo Image 64, Tapan- Manrique's Description of Mrauk-U ..37 taing Palace-site 64.

The Historical Sites in Mrauk-U... 42-87

Eastern Side ... 67-76

Northern Side ... 42-68 Sakyamanaung Pagoda 67, Wuntinat- Shitthaung Pillar42,Shitthaung Pagoda 45, taung69,Winmana Paddy-store-house 69,

Andaw Shrine 5 1 , Ratanahon Pagoda 54. Neikbuzar Pagodas h9, Paraoke Pa- Dukkhanthein 54, Laymyetnha Pagoda57, goda^), Minkhaungshwetu Pagoda70, Myatazaung Pagoda 57, Mokseiktaw Pisei Pagoda 70, Koethaung Pagoda73,

Pagoda 57, Laungbanpyauk Pagoda 58, Udawsaykan74,Myinmoenan74,Kyaung- Htuparyon Pagoda 59, Tharapavata laidon Fortress 74, Taung Myinmoe-

Pagoda 59, Pitakataik 60, Pyisoegyi nan 75, Hlaingsaya Training Camp 76, CONT

Mahahti Pagoda92, Thein- Art on the Rock 90, Santikan Mosque76,Mintayapyin76, Paungdawdat 93, Kyauknyo Image 93. gyishwegu 76, Nyimadaw Pagoda 76.

Historical Sites in Vesali ... 95-97 Southern Side 77-78 The 95, Palace-site 95, Vesali ShwetaungPagoda77, Wathaie Image 78, The Old Vesali 78. Paragyi95, Letkettaung96, Shwedaung- Pankonthein 78, Jinamanaung Pagoda gyi 96, Sanghayana Hill 96, Thingyaing-

Western Side .... 79-85 taung 97. Shwekyathein 79, Lokamanaung Pa-

goda 79, Parabaw Pagoda 80, Daingri- The Historical Sites in Dhanyawaddy

... 98-105 pet 83. Dhanyawaddy 98, Mahamuni Shrine 99,

Visit to the South-West of the City Venerations A Sight around the Shrine 100, ... 84-85 of of Buddhist World 102, Evidence Laytankhar Pagoda 84, Mingalashwegu Architecture and Sculpture 103, Salagiri Mahavizaya 86, KoenawinPagoda 86, Hill 104. yanthi Pagoda 85, Naretsa Pagoda 85.

References 86-94 The Historical Sites in Launggret... Kadothein Shrine 86, Pataw Pagoda 90, ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

I wish to express my sincere thanks to Minister for Cooperatives Maj-Gen Mya Thinn and to Commander of the Western Command Brig-Gen Win Myint, Chairman of the Rakhine State Law and Order Restoration Council for their invaluable guidance and advice on the writing of this tour guide of Mrauk- U in English.

I also wish to express my gratitude to U Kyaw Mya Thein Principal of Sittway Degree College, for his constructive suggestions -and encouragement during the writing of this book. This book could not have been written without the help of Professor Dr. HIa Wai of Chemistry Department for his very useful comments on the earlier drafts. My thanks are also due to the following; The late U San Tha Aung (former Director-General Higher Education Department), U Oo Tha Tun (Archaeological Survey), the late Dr. Daw Thinn Kyi (retd:Professor of Geography Yangon University), TJ Tin Oo (retd:Chief Editor, University Translation and Publications Department) and U Thaw Kaung (Librarian Universit.es Central Library) for their kind helps at different times and in different ways. My special thanks go to Dr. Pamela Gutman (Australian National University), Professor Bernot (Sorbonne University, Paris), Dr. Pichard (Architect, UNESCO) and Paul Strachan (South East Asian Department, London University) for their very useful discussions during their visit to the site with the author.

Finally, I have to thank my wife, Than Than Myint, who, in spite of all inconveniences due to delay in publication, hai shown eagerness and courtesy, and U Mya Than (Director Agricultural Mechanization Department), his wife Daw Myint Myint and his daughters Sayama Mar Lar Than (Chem. Dept Sittway Degree College) and Cherry Than, who have been of immense helps to me in getting the book through the publication PREFACE

Ril rauk-U, a fine last royal capital of Rakhine has scenic '" beauty and historical remains which are inextricable and

remarkable. Innumerable pagodas belonging to all ages can be found throughout the city. Everywhere one looks within Mrauk-U

city wall on every mound, every field and every hill are Buddha images, temples, sima(Thein) and pagodas.

It is no wonder that Mrauk-U is popularly known as the 'Land of Pagodas' and Europeans remarked Mrauk-U as 'The Golden City'. The Rakhine of those days were proud of Mrauk-U. They were entirely satisfied to be the inhabitants of Mrauk- U. The history shows what happened in the city in early times.

Mrauk-U was founded in 1430 A.D. and became the seat

of the Rakhine dynasty of that name. It had attained its highest

prosperity for 355 years til! 1785 A.D. Before Mrauk-U, several other former royal cities, Dhanyawaddy, Vesali, Sambawet, Pyinsa,

Parein, Launggret , Hkirt and Nayyinzaya-taungngoo had flour-

ished from generation to generation for many years (see chapter 2).

Geographically, Mrauk-U lies at the head of a tributary, Kaladan River, about 45 miles from the sea coast, but the largest

sea-going ships of that period could reach it through a network

of deep creeks by which it was surrounded. Mrauk-U's unique

02 routes to position in the Bay of Bengal, with both land and sea

the east and west, resulted in the development of its commercial and cultural centre which later emerged as a highly flourishing country because of its strategic location between India and South Indianized East Asia. It also received Buddhist religion and civilization from the west.

A visitor, Schouten, a Dutchman who visited the area that the city was comparable in 16th century A.D , remarked and in size and wealth to such western cities as Amsterdam

London. He also mentioned that it was the richest city among the ports of Asia. The city was called by the Europeans as 'Golden City'. That term applies very fittingly to Mrauk-U whose wealth depended mainly on its extensive regions of riceland which surrounded the city. The crops never failed because of an annual 200 inches of rainfall. The export of rice increased from year to year. Moreover, the goods were allowed

to enter the city duty-free in order to encourage trade. Thus

the city was crowded with a large number of foreign merchants from the neighbouring countries and western countries as well, such as the Netherlands, Portugal and Spain. Various kinds of goods were on sale in the markets of Mrauk-U.

The export of elephants was most popular in the Mrauk- U period. An elephant cost 1300 silver coins in those days. The Portuguese and the Dutch were permitted to build a factory at

Aungdat port in Mrauk-U. Since a ship after leaving Bengal on

a voyage to Java or any city on the eastern coast, and did not

sail straight across the bay had to keep to the coast. Hence, trading

ships naturally put. in at Mrauk-U to replenish food, water and other necessities.

In this way Mrauk-U became usual focus for trade on the eastern shore of the Bay of Bengal. Mrauk-U, therefore, was very prosperous during those days. At the beginning of the 16 century

the sea-faring- nature of Rakhine was even more accentuated. The King Minbin (1531-1553 A.D.) was able to build a large naval

tleet with modern cannon to guard the long coastal territory of about one thousand miles. According to the Magh Raider in Bengal

it had ten thousand warboats and their cannon were so numerous

10 that flotilla exceeded the waves of the sea. Now, several types of old cannon can be seen in Mrauk-U 'Museum.

Mrauk-U was built as a defence city by the kings of those days. Taking advantage of the ridges surrounding the city, the citywalls have been built by joining the higher points of the ridge. The walls were built with local sandstone and earth. Inside the wail some portions of the mountain had to be levelled at the appropriate points to make ramparts. Some secret paths were constructed from top to bottom and stone gates had been erected for going in and out. Above them some bulwarks or forts were provided with modern artillery. A maze-like chain of lakes and moats were also constructed both inside and outside the city walls. These moats and water tanks not only supplied fresh water for the inhabitants but also provided a measure of defence.

Besides the venerable pagodas, visitors of today can see citywalls, moats, ramparts, watch towers and forts as the most interesting archaeological remains. They were all constructed with well-fitting cemented stones and they remain in good condition up to the present time.

Some Japanese samurai came to Mrauk-U in 1623 A.D and served as domestic guards of Mrauk-U kings. Because of their valiant and incomparable swordsmanship they were selected as royal bodyguards by the kings.

The dynasty of Mrauk-U had successfully defended itself against all foreign invaders for many years. A few wars were fought, which ended in victory for the Rakhine kings. No civil strife had ruined the peasantry of Mrauk-U. Because of Buddhist teaching and an efficient administrative code, law and order had been maintained in the whole of the kingdom.

The kingdom of Rakhine was divided into twelve prov- inces, each administered by a governor who pledged allegiance to the king.

It was the traditional obligation of the time for the governor of the provinces to build pagodas in the royal city of Mrauk-U.

11 The people of Mrauk-U also offered very lavishly to religious causes. A pagoda, 400 feet to the east of Shitthaung Pagoda, was said to have been donated by a woman who sold fish-jelly, (Rakhine term Ngapithama). This pagoda has been known as Ngapithama Pagoda.

Monuments seem to overwhelm the landscape of the city of Mrauk-U. The whole city has numerous lakes, pagodas, traces of buildings and other vestiges indicating that it was the site of a once-important city. These monuments are of different sizes and of various types. They are in varying stages of preservation and disrepair.

Some of these have been repaired and restored by public donors. Most of them were demolished not by unruly people but by the tropical monsoon climate.

Nevertheless, these mounds of bricks here and there remind

us of the site of the ancient Mrauk-U, once a splendid capital of Rakhine.

\Anomakan of Mrauk-U General Information

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built (a) Geography by water and land. The city was on a valley within the series of

little to Mrauk-U (lat 20'25'N, long 93 parallel ranges extending a

1 city was cov- ll E) is situated 45 miles to the north-west. The whole north of Sittway, which can be ered with a network of numerous

reached by river route. It lies on a creeks and canals forming a maze of tributary river named Henkayaw, on interconnecting channels. the right side of the Kaladan River. The city holds a much better position

strategically. It controls both the (b) Climate Kaladan and the Lemro valleys and region has three extends to the two main rivers both The Mrauk-U

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Rakhine Shinpyu mingala

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seasons. Summer, which is dry and such as malaria and wild cyclones hot, begins in March and ends in can be encountered in Rakhine dur- May; the rainy season, wet and damp, ing this season. from June to October; and winter is The best time to visit Mrauk-U a cool dry season from November to is winter from October to February. February. The average annual tem- During this cool season the weather perature is about 78* F. So there are in Mrauk-U is fine and pleasant. All no extremes of heat and cold. Even the pagodas are cleaned and painted the hottest months. March to May white and they look very beautiful. becomes quite bearable because of the cool sea breeze and the evergreen

forests around Mrauk-U. The tem- (c) Flora perature can rise to 100° F in Sum- mer. Mrauk-U is densely covered with Annual rainfall 160" ranges from variety of plants; this is because of to 200". The rainy season is not quite tropical climatic condition . Bam- suitable for visitors. Natural boos are dominant, covering the larg- vegetations and weeds grow occa- est part of the hilly regions. Trees, sionally everywhere around the city, herbs and shrubs are commonly found including pagodas. Other problems during the rainy season. They are

Rakhine traditional dance

14 alive up to the end of December. Now they migrate to Maru Ridge, Villagers of Mrauk-U cultivate coco- northwest of Mrauk-U. Other com- nut palm, banana, mango, jackfruit, mon varieties of wild animals such betel-palm, lemon, orange, lychees as, pigs, stags, hogs, barking-deers, and many other useful trees. Besides, leopards, wild cats, jackals, mon-

Mrauk-U is the rice bowl of Rakhine keys, bears are found all over the State. After the harvest time, most of countryside. the paddy-fields are replanted with About 300 species of birds vegetables such as tomato, radish, wander in the hills. Among them, cauliflower, cucumber, cabbage, jungle fowl, house crow, house spar- gourd, pine-apple, papaya, bean, row, jungle sparrow, robin, hawks, chilly, egg fruits and others. owls, hornbiils, woodpeckers, impe-

rial pigeon, green pigeon, wild ducks are very well-known species. In win- (d) Fauna ter one can see many geese in the rivers and lakes of Mrauk-U. They About one hundred species of are Siberian faunas. Sometimes mammals are found in Mrauk-U. several kinds of snakes are com- Famous royal elephants were once monly found somewhere in the for- found in the forests of northern hills. ests and the great crocodile is also

Rakhine thingyan (water festival)

15 found in the tidal creeks of southern need on your trip. Quick drying part of Mrauk-U. cloths are very suitable for rainy season. In winter you should wear a sweater or a jacket. Since Mrauk-U

(e) Clothing is full of pagodas, according to tradition one always removes one's As Mrauk-U lies mainly within shoes before entering the precincts of the tropical zone and unless you are religious monuments or private homes

an official in Rakhine, it is not or guesthouses. So it is better for you advisable for you to wear a tie or to bring a pair of comfortable walk-

western suit, because of the weather ing shoes which you can slip in and condition. Long pants for men, long out easily. Or you could buy a new skirts for women or Myanmar dress pair of local-make slippers. In ad- style are quite good for visitors. You dition, antimalarial drugs, antibiotics, will need a suitcase containing light and other first-aid items should also clothes, a hat or an umbrella, sun- be packed in your suitcase. glasses, and some medicine you may

A Rakhine girl wearing national costume and flower • Rakiiine thazin

16 The Land, the People and the Name m

regions of its rice- /\ ccording to our tradition and his- pally on the extensive over two ' *torical annals, Buddhism was intro- lands. With a rainfall of the crop has never duced into Rakhine during the lifetime hundred inches a year, plenty of grains in the of Buddha Himself. failed. There are On the request of the people and the fields seasonally.) prosperity has prevailed in king, the Buddha visited Rakhine with his Thus, the generations. five hundred disciples and rested on the Rakhine through addition to the ancient name top of Salagiri Hill (smcw^), situated In Dhanyawaddy the country" came to he on the right bank of Gacehabhanady known as Rakkhapura, Rakhine-pye, the (ro®o^§) River- Before supervising the present day Rakhine State. The explana- casting of His image, Mahamuni, the tions for this are offered in the following Buddha prophesied relating to the coun- passage. try. The arrival of the Buddha in Rakhine All Rakhine (Arakanese) designate was during the reign of King Sandasuriya themselves as Rakhine. The origin of the (©l^qoo) who ascended the throne in the term 'Rakhine' is very ancient. The sixth ceniury B.C. An ancient palm-leaf Rakhine chronicle mentions the settle- manuscript called Sabhadhanapakarana ment of savage people called Bee-loo (oo«3l^ooxj^) gives a detailed account of (may be Negrito) which stands for the the casting of the Buddha's image, Pali Rakkha or Raksasas. Probably, the Mahamuni. term originates from Sanskrit Raksa During an inspired moment, Buddha meaning Bee loo. remarked that the country would, in ages The term 'Aiakan' is generally used to come, be renowned for its production by foreigners. However, the native peo- of grains and for that reason it would be ple usually called themselves 'Rakhine'. known to all the world as Dhanyawaddy. It is believed among those people that the Since then the country has retained that those who safe- name. The prophecy of Buddha has term 'Rakhine' denotes namely, amply been fulfilled by the abundance of guard the two essential qualities, morality-5i/<3 (aSco). paddy grain which in years proved not the nationality and only sufficient for the people of the "ssqjjtoScoi ^©go^rrji (o^oomp country but also for exporting to neigh- countries across the sea. bouring jxionomhci 33|0000£00l G3l33GSpCOg£: to (This term applies very fittingly / o c c > Rakhine, whose wealth depended princi-

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F 3 In early times, the Buddhist mission- corruption of the native name Rakhine, aries used to call the country Rakkhapura from which the modern European form, (nroofi^the land of the Rakhines. Arakan, is derived. On the other hand, the Rakhine or On the other hand, Gerini is con- Arakan people are popularly known as vinced that the name Rakkha, Rakhine is 'Magh\ Scholars hold different views derived from Plaksa, Balaksa, Palaksa, meaning 'white* or 'silver* from the fact about the etymology of the term'Magh'. that silver was found in the country, and Scholars think that, it is a Persian word

denoting "fire-worshipper". This is un- that the name 'Arakan' is nothing but a

likely. At the present all Rakhines are Portuguese and Arab corruption of the

Buddhists and no worshippers have ever original 'Rakhine'. In this connection it

been known among them. is interesting to note that Shahabudin According to some other scholars, Talish, a Mohamedan historian of the

the word'Magh' is believed to derive 16th century, mentioned that there were

from 'Magdu', a Sanskrit word for a sea- several mines of silver in Arakan. Later on, the Dutch traders of the 17th century bird. Therefore, it can be said that the

stated that , among the other things term 'Magh' denotes sea-traveller, or , Arakan exported silver. It is also inter- seafarer. esting to note that the old Tamil word for Sir Arthor Phayre pointed out that demon, bee-loo, derived from Sanskrit the name 'Maga' originated from the ruling raksasa, is 'arrakan*. There appears to be race of Magadha in India. There had been some connection here with Tamil 'arrakan', cultural inter-relations between Magadha

and Rakhine in ancient times. It is there- 'shelac', which is said to be derived from

fore claimed that Rakhine were de- the lexical Sanskrit raksa (tqoo) "lac". It

scendants of Magadha. seems that Arakan, in the first centuries

However, the term 'Arakan' is gen- of the Christian era, was a major source erally used by foreigners instead of of lac. Lac had been produced by its Rakhine. oldest hill tribes in Rakhine Yoma. In an interesting paper by Colonel On the northern face of the Shitthaung Yule on the oldest records of the sea- (^esQOdoc:) pillar, engraved in the mid-

route to China from Western Asia, the 11th century, it was mentioned for the

author identified the country, named first time the word Arekadesa (ssovfns^^),

'Argyre' in Ptolemy, as Arakan. Ptolemy meaning ' the land of Arakan'. It was who sailed along the Rakhine coast in the probably the name for Rakhine at that second century A.D mentioned a number time.

of ports in Argyre (silver which ' country) The term Rakhuin was found in the might be Rakhine. Because, his list be- Pagan (Bagan) inscription which was gins with the port of Barakaura, which dated 1299 A.D. as we shall see later can be identified as Nicola Conti (1420-1430 A.D ) wrote situated at the mouth of the Naaf River 'Rachani' as the name of the country. Sidi the border between Bengal and Rakhine. Ali Chelebi, a Turkish navigator belong- The name Arakan is supposed to be ing to the middle of the sixteenth century derived from the silver mines existing wrote as 'Rakanf. there at that time. This name may be a 18 m. All these forms are closely related to Mrauk-U, the last city of Rakhine, by the the original term. The term Aiacan was route of this river. It is suggested that this as quoted in Ramusio first used by Barbosa name is derived from Kular-Tant [cqcooi in 1516 A.D. The usage was taken up by co|J. According to local chronicles, which the later Portuguese and other European can be summarized as follows: travellers and chroniclers, and the term was variously described as Recon, Rakan, At one time, when the upper Kaladan Arracam, Aracao, Orrakan. or Arrakan river was flooded by heavy rains, a prince which is nearest to modern name Arakan. who came from Kapilavastu (mocoooo)

The term 'Arakan' is generally used and his wife, the daughter of local tribal by foreigners. However, the native people chief, had been swept away in the river. usually called themselves 'Rakhine'. It is They swam to save their lives and finally believed among these people that the term landed on the bank near Salagiri Hill 'Rakhine' denotes those who safeguard therefore ( goo coon q). The river was named the two essential qualities, namely, the Kulartant (Kutar =swim), (tani =stop). nationality-heritage and morality-Si/a Later on it changed to Kuiar-tan, Kulardan,

(33 1^130 CO . J and Kalardan etc. The ancient name of

Kaladan River is Gacehabhanady.

Kaladan River The term originates from Pali word, meaning 'Tortoise-shell River*. Because

there are many stones which look like The main river of Rakhine is known in the upper river. as Kaladan (c^coo-.co^.We can go to tortoise-shell

The Kaladan River at dawn

19 The Old Capitals of Rakhine

,'i he physical boundaries of Rakhine Christ (3000 B.C). Marayu was the first determines, on one hand, the extent king and his of descendants consisted of control by a central authority. On the fifty-five kings. other hand, it affords a good opportunity tor the growth of religion and culture. From the viewpoint of historical devel- Kanthonsint opment of Rakhine, (16th Century B.C) it is interesting to note that it has been an independent The kingdom throughout fifty-five descendants of Marayu its history. It con- reigned this trolled large areas city; the last of them, King along the coasts to the east, west and Min-ngay-pyaw-hla-sithuf^co^a^ the south for beyond the borders of left the motherland. ^) Dhanyawaddy and founded the The city of early chronicles of Rakhine Kanthonsint in 1508 B.C. usually began with the descriptions of the events of Sakkya migration into Rakhine. They were led by the princes of royal Nilarpandaung blood who left their country for political reasons. The first group Soon after the was led by the new city was built the eldest brother Vasudeva King was who ruled the assassinated by three nobles Kingdom of Dwarawady who collectively (Thandway). ruled for a year. Jhe The second group under the queen of the leader- last King, Sawsit (<*o„S), ship of a prince, named and Ahzona, entered her followers then marched on Rakhine to the from Kapilavastu, and north, and moved founded a new city, Nilar- along the route of the Kaladan River. On pandaung. the way, the prince married the daughter of a powerful tribal chief. A son was born to them and was named Marayu (m^). Kyaukpandaung (1507-1483 B.C) When the young prince came of age, he led the whole of his mother's tribe,' as At about this time Kanrazagyi. who well as all of his father's followers from had been obliged to relinquish the King- India and conquered the city of old dom of Tagaung (cogo^) Vesali. He founded to his a new city Dhanya- younger brother, came to Northern waddy, on the bank Ra- of Than River. khine and settled with his followers The chronicles on dated this event at a high mountain site called Kyaukpan- some three thousand odd years before daung. Kanrazagyi joined the queen of 20 the last Rakhine king and married her two years. The Suriya dynasty was then suc- daughters. The city was situated on the ceeded by the dynasty of the Chandra. top ground of a plateau, eight miles long

and five miles broad. It stood about four Vesali (327 to 776 AD) thousand and three hundred feet above

sea-level, and is situated fourteen miles The first king of the Chandra Dynasty east of Paletwa, Chin State. An ancient was Mahataing Chandra. He ascended the map of Kyaukpandaung drawn by Cap- throne in 327 A.D. The tumult which tain G.C. Righy may be found in his arose at that time was due to the mys- History of Operations in Northern terious decline of fortune and influence Arakan 1896- 97. He writes: It is a very of the old capital. The two chief queens conspicuous flat lopped hill and water is had died and the astrologers suggested procurable on the top. Palm trees, which that a change of site be necessary. The are not natural products of the surround- King, Mahataing Chandra, therefore left ing forests, are found there. the old capital, and rebuilt the old city of Vesali which he made his new capital. Second Dhanyawaddy (1483-580 B.C) In that city nine kings of this dynasty reigned in succession bearing the sur- After twenty-four years Kanrazagyi name of Chandra. They developed the left Kyaukpandaung and rebuilt Dhanya- city to be rich and prosperous, and it was waddy on the same site of the old city. during this period that foreign trade was The Rakhine chronicles relate that twenty established for the first time. The city had -eight kings of Kanrazagyi's descendants a stone pier on the bank of Yanchaung, had reigned the kingdom successively for a portion of which had existed until quite nine hundred and twenty-seven years. recently, and it is said that a thousand vessels laden with rich merchandise from Third Dhanyawaddy (580 B.C to 326 surrounding countries called at the place AD) annually. Beside the chronicles other evidences The dynasty founded by Kanrazagyi are also available now to help elucidate comprised twenty-eight kings. It was the early history of Rakhine. Epigraphic succeeded by the Suriya (o^oo) Dynasty, and numismatic materials are now avail-

the first king of which being Sandasuriya able. They include prasastis, votive in-

(©l^qoo). (The King founded a new city scriptions, copper plate land grant, bell and built a palace on the site of the Old inscriptions and numerous early coins Dhanyawaddy.) According to chronicles, made for the purpose of currency.

it was during this time that Buddha is Up to the time of the first Chandra, believed to have visited Rakhine with His Buddhism prevailed in the country in its five hundred disciples. It was said that the purest form. The Mahamuni image alone famous Mahamuni image was cast with formed the centre of religious worship and His consent as a memento of His sojourn no other image of any kind was permitted the in country, The Suriya Dynasty con- in the sacred shrine. The ruler, Chandra, sisted of twenty-five kings and they ruled probably introduced the tantric forms of the country for nine hundred and six worship for the first time. An old manu-

21 ..

script reveals that two missionaries from Myanmar tribe came down from the upper abroad prevailed upon the King to accept Anzananaddy(33g«^3) River and occupied a new religion. Henceforth, in addition to the city, Mrauk-U. During this time the the Buddha images, those of Brahma, Mro KingPaiphyu, being forced to abandon Vishnu, Shiva and Bodhisattva are also his capital, retired with his followers to found in the sacred shrines. These kings the valley of the Yoechaung River and stone, were great builders of temples in built a temporary city of Thabaiktaung. and at present large stone images are to be found lying about the fields on the ruined Sambawet (794-818 AD) site of Vesali.

When Sula Chandra, the last king of Mrauk-U (776-792 AD) Chandra Dynasty, died, he left an infant son. During the troubled days that child The last king of the Chandra Dynasty prince was carefully hidden away by the was Cula Chandra (^g©§o:) who was loyal followers and was brought up in an drowned in the sea. So the reign was obscure hilly region in the northern part succeeded, or rather temporarily taken over, of the country. It was in the Saingdin water- by a chief of the Mro (gj) tribes, Ahmyatu fall region which was habitated by the Thet (ssGao), and his nephew, Paiphyu (o(«u). (ooro) tribes. When he grew to manhood King Paiphyu built a new city called he brought together a considerable force Mrauk-U in 776 A.D. The city was his of the hill tribes (Thets) to which the people birthplace and it was proclaimed as his of Rakhine also joined in large numbers capital but Vesali still existed as a city the of the time. Then Shans from the northern as he came down to the plains. When prince was twenty -three years old he was Yoma invaded Rakhine and occupied it for years. According to records, Ko Lo Fend enthroned as king. He built a new capital (749-779 A.D.) also had overrun the upper named Sambawet (oyooo) in 794 A.D. The region of the Ayeyarwady, at about the prince was called by the Thets as Nga Ton same period. The country collapsed under Mm, meaning' Our King.' Hence the Rakhine the invasion of the Mongolian (Shans ) chronicles mentioned this king as Nga Ton although in unsettled conditions, Vesali M in. Sambawet city lies six miles southeast continued to flourish till 1018 A.D. of the old Vesali. It was a smal 1 city situated This is a very important period for on the bank of the Lemro River (cco:^(oo) Rakhine history. It seemed that the Mongols had intermarried freely with the native people who were then most probably, Pyinsa (818-1103 AD.) Aryans (Indians). Because of this inter-

marriage, Rakhine still retains some of the The King Nga Ton Min was succeeded customs, manners, languages, cultures and by Khittathin (gs^ooc). He was a de- practices of the Indo-Mongoloid. scendant of a Chandra king. His father, was the nephew of Sula Chandra, the last

Thabaiktaung (793 AD.) king of Vesali. Previously, the King had been hidden for a long time in an obscure

After the King Paiphyu had ruled for hilly region of upper Khrit River ((§oo(o

22 .

all his enemies he abandoned Sambawet On the advice of the astrologers who and built the new city of Pyinsa (ogo), said that the city of Pyinsa had lost all situated on the Lemro River and was about its power and glory, and predicted that a few miles due south of the old city. Fifteen the country could not prosper if admin- kings ruled in that city for two hundred istered from that city, Letyaminnan left and eighty-five years, until 1103 A.D. the old capital. He crossed the Lemro River

Some scholars consider that the cities and found a plain which was as flat as Sambawet and Pyinsa were situated on the the surface of a big drum («pS«o5&o(oSoocSJ same site. Actually, this is because the cities There he built a temporary city named were very small and the boundary lines Launggret (cocoes (too?). Many people in- seemed to be rather undistinctive and lay cluding a princess and animals died in that very closely to each other. It is believed city. Letyaminnan then left Launggret and that the original boundaries of the cities built the new city of Parein on the bank had disappeared and most parts of the cities of Paungduk Chaung (sulc^coG^pch). had been eroded. The Paungduk Chaung is a boundary line between Launggret and Parein. Parein

Parein (1103-1123 A.D ) (Lat 20° 34' N, Long 93 14' E) holds a

much better position than other cities. It

In the Pyinsa Dynasty, the last three faces the Lemro River and has, at its back kings were usurpers, Minbeeloo (ocicnco:), a ridge that runs parallel to the main ridge the last king of the regular line, was which is situated between the Kaladan assassinated by a noble who usurped the and Lemro River. throne. His son Minraibaya (yc;€\cooo)fled It lies four miles southeast of Mrauk- with his family to the court of Kyansittha U. The seventh king of Parein Dynasty at Bagan. For thirty-five years the Rakhine Dhatharaza (ao^oirptao 1123-1139 A.D) royal family remained there in exile. The reformed the city as Second Parein in queen of Minraibaya(yc:

According to popular tradition, an Minphoonsa (»S;:n|:«*a:), who suc- army a of hundred thousand Pyus and a ceeded his brother Ananta Thiri (33^ co^), hundred thousand Talaings was sent by the last king of Parein Dynasty then built sea and land to Rakhine. The people of another capital called Khrit (§o5) in 1142 Rakhine were jubilant over the return of A.D on the left bank of the Khrit Chaung, their legitimate prince. Letyaminnan as- a substream of the Lemro River. It is now cended the Rakhine throne in 1103 A.D uninhabited. The King had to move up with the help of Pyus. He is also known the river for security reasons when the in history as Pyutaikeifimin (MooSa8|sec:}, dynasty was in decline. The area was just Myanmar inscription at A Buddha Gaya over 30 acres wide. It was surrounded by recorded of the repair of the temple there a narrow moat which is now occupied by by Letyaminnan, the lord of one hundred paddy fields. Each wall of the city measures thousand Pyus. only about 1200 feet. .

The city was a very unhealthy place Dynastywas Alawmarphyu who ruled only for habitation and only three kings, in- one year in that city. He did not like the cluding the last one Danuyupol, had old city. On the advice of the astrologers managed to live there. They resided in the who said that the city had lost all its power city for only twelve years. and glory and that the country could not

prosper if administered from that city, the Second Sambawet (1154-1163 A.D) King Alawmarphyu set out to find a suitable place for a new city. He crossed the River After the King Danuyupol Lemro and selected a site with the help (e^eol ), had ascended the Khrit's throne and stayed of his ministers and astrologers and built

there for three years, he left the Khrit city the new city of Launggret in 1251 A.D.

and reoccupied the old Sambawet city in An old saying states that it was so named 1154 A.D. The King was assassinated by (Launggret = boat-fowl= scooc:[mro) because during the a noble named Salangarbo (©corm^aS) in search for a site a jungle fowl 1160 A.D. The usurper-king occupied the flew out of its cover and alighted throne of Second Sambawet for about one itself on the prow of the royal barge. year. Whereupon the King's advisers unanimously

interpreted it as He was succeeded by Myitzuthin (ogn highly propitious. They advised the King to build coc), son of Danuyupol. The King, the new city along the bank from which the fowl came. Myitzuthin, ruled this city for only two They said the city years. would have a long life and his successors would be great and powerful. Myohaung Taungngu (1163-1251 AD) Today, Launggret is situated on an island in the River Lemro, being bounded After the King Myitzuthin had stayed by the Lemro on the east and the Paungduk there for two years, he left the old city Chaung on the west. There is a small ridge and built a new capital named Myohaung on the northeast corner against which the Taungngu. He built this city on the east city was supposed to have been built. The bank of Lemro River in 1163 A.D. It lies eastern walls as well as two-thirds of the four miles east of Launggret city. Most palace-site had been eroded by the of the city ground had been eroded by river. the Lemro River. There is a resemblance in the layouts Some ruins of a Buddha image, and of Parein and Launggret. Both faced east palace site, a fort and a wall have recently on the Lemro. There is a considerable been unearthed on the bank of the Lemro expanse of plains on the northern and River. southern side. Routes of access by land Altogether seventeen kings had reigned and water was convenient. in this capital for eighty-eight years. The Launggret lay five miles southeast of capital is also called Nayyinzaya(efeig«rp) the city of Mrauk-U and was close to Parein in the south.

Second Launggret (1251-1406 A.D) Altogether eighteen kings, including four usurpers, had resided in this capital The last king of Myohaung Taungngu for one hundred and fifty-five years.

24 The Golden City Of Mrauk-U

Historical Background (1430-1 784 A J)) Myanmar, Inwa and the lower Myanmar, Bago.

Eighteen kings had reigned in the During this period the dethroned King Launggret city. Minsawmon had been taking shelter at the Thuratan The last king, Minsawmon (yc:G©o^|), court of the King of (o^coD ascended the throne with the Queen Sawsit who himself having been engaged in wars could not give Minsawmon any help. The (g

of order. to fall into pits covered with straws and earth. The bottom of these pits were planted In the midst of such general confusion Ultimately the Thuratan Minkhaung, the King of Inwa, sent his with iron spikes. , King won a complete victory. The exiled son, Minraikyawzwa(yc:s|GCT}pgo) to attack Rakhine King taught the Thuratan King's Launggret and occupied it in 1406 A.D. followers the technique of trapping a herd Minsawmon fled to Bengal. One year later, of wild elephants. The procedure consisted Minkhari(Gc:s^) a younger brother of Min- of driving them into a space enclosed by sawmon, ruling in Thandway, sought the a stockade and a ditch. He also taught them military aid of the KingRazadirat(sp@Q6p|), to the throne of Launggret, Rakhine. become a battle-field in the struggle for restored had occupied power between the kings of the central After the King Minsawmon

F04 25 the throne for about two years, he decided "Yes, I did," the southern woman to abandon Launggret and to build another replied.

city at a more suitable place. The reasons Listening to these conversations they for the decision included the following. learnt that the northern side was called The royal palace at Launggret was Mrauk-U, and that the other side was struck by thunderbolts, intruded by poi- Wathay. Then from the foot of the Galon sonous snakes (|sgpg5:i c|;c(gcDoSgc:) Taung they set forth towards the source and of the perched by evil birds (crna§:^o:gc:). Mrauk-U Creek ( Ggomg:G^pc:) in Besides, the city had been ruled and ruined search of the new city site. On the way by the invaders. This called for the aban- they witnessed a series of strange sights.

donment of Launggret and a new city site In a place there lay a patch of land covered was sought for. His sole ambition had been with a grove of reeds (x>c§uSgcooi o^coto) to make Rakhine prosperous and strong, that shot up in a clockwise climb towards and to this end in mind, he had sacrificed which a rat, chased by a cat, ran, but when everything. He had acquired vast admin- they reached there, the rat turned around istrative experience during his stay with and chased out the cat; then a barking- the King of Bengal. deer chased by a tiger ran and then turned Then King Minsawmon set out in around and chased his enemy as the former golden boats and silver boats upstream of reached the spot. Furthermore, a frog chased the Lemro River in the company of seers by a snake ran and turned around when

(c^eepooOT), astrologers (urj:ep:ooo5), and it got there and bit it. As the snake was

ministers, and came to a tributary in the too big , the frog could eat only a part

west. Then he saw a strange well - dressed of it and the remaining portion was shown old man on top of Golden Hill (g^gcotc) to Minsawmon.

who was playing a flute. Having witnessed these strange events, The strange man called out to the King the seers and the astrologers unanimously agreed that the and pointed atthe Galon Taung (ng[lGcoDc) place could be the soil of divine choice. The matter was then which was situated on the western side reported to the King, recommending of the Golden Hill. When the company building of the royal palace. reached a stream they witnessed the following scene: There was a large Khamaung tree (s>g«oc;oc) nearby, and A woman, carrying a basket (oc^c; when it was cut off, five white lizards were found inside gcsfroos) and a mesh-snare (ooroooi cl:tso: its hollow. The seers then foretold that oo^uoo) was catching fish out of water on the future kings would observe the five the southern side was questioning another precepts (cl:ol:o§co) and that they would woman who was also fishing on the northern be honest and good. side. The King's advisers also interpreted the omen as being highly " Here, my sister Mrauk-U (gccocoo propitious and they .predicted that many cgorags), did you catch any fish?" vessels laden with rich merchandise from "Yes, I did", replied the other. neighbouring countries would call at this Then the woman of the northern side city annually. asked the woman of the south. When the spot which had been pointed "Here, my sister Wathay (ooi), did out by the old man was cleared for building you catch any fish?" the palace, they found on the northern side 26 Taungnyo, Kukka, and Moonlay, on which a pot filled with red earth, on the southern built his palace and another building side another pot filled with white earth he royal family and then fortified and four front teeth of a tiger. for the for defensive pur- The seers said that the omen of the the surrounding hills The palace-site was situated in the pots foretold the prosperity of the city . poses. The moats had been made The red earth meant that the future kings heart of the city. small streams. Surround- would reign long and that the city would by damming the city of the palace-site and be plentiful of goods. The white earth ing this inner ground was the first wall, indicated that the future kings would ascend the lowlying up of earthen works damming the the throne of Mrauk-U beneath the shade made Panzaymyaung(o|:s

and longer life his descendents. over two hundred years. Major repairs were The construction of the city was started started by the King Minbin in the year day of in the year 792M.E, (1430 A.D ) Sunday, of 893 B.E, on Saturday, the 2nd on the first day of the waxing moon of the waxing moon of Thidingyut.

7aw//ia/m(GQ^ooc\3c-.)atsunrise which was The second terrace is about 1 000 feet the time of Kanlet Kansan. long from east to west and 800 feet from north to south. The upper terrace is about of the inner The Inner City of the Palace-Site 600 feet each side. The area city is about 1.2 square miles. The highest high from the After many days of careful searches, terrace is about fifty feet level. The layout of the Minsawmon selected in a hilly tract a lowest ground similar to that strategic position for his new capital, Mrauk- ground plan is somewhat Shrine; the lines from U. According to the advice of his ministers of the Mahamuni considerably towards the and astrologers, he levelled three small hills, west to east dips

27 north, and these form the lines north to the laughters and cheers of the other inmates south and south to the east. of the royal enclosure who probably lined The detailed measurements surveyed the top of the fringing wall. This broad by Dr.Forchhammer in 1870 are as follow: expanse of water is now no longer in

No.l terrace measurements from north existence; it was filled up in 1916 and to south west line 1606 feet, to east line 1917 to serve utilitarian needs of certain 1200 feet; from west to east 1740 feet; officials. entering the west gate, the distance from The gates were all completely demol- the wall of the first to that of the second ished with the exception of the one at the enclosure is 140 feet, to that of the third south east corner, the entrance to the first

237 feet; across platform III 656 feet; enclosure. The entrance is 10 feet wide; from the opposite gate of the III platform on either side the wall protrudes 8 feet to that the second 267 feet, to that of the with a thickness of 7V2 feet and a height first enclosure 440 feet. Entering the north of 12 feet . On the inner side of the wall gate of the first enclosure there are 233 a thick stone slab was firmly inserted in feet to the second, 166 feet to the third, the wall about one foot above the ground, and 879 feet across to the topmost platform, and a second similar one above it at a

138 feet from the south gate of terrace height of 8 feet; in the centre of each stone to III to that of the second and 450 feet is a hole of 5 inches diameter. This was that of the first enclosure. apparently intended to receive the two The walls were constructed with old ends of a beam to which a swinging door sandstone blocks of various sizes, well- was attached. Close by is a low steep hill with mortar which hewn and cemented known as Ywantaung (mlsoooo^). Tra- possesses great adhesiveness. The cement dition has it that the Royal Central Clock was prepared by mixing sand and clay of (Big Drum) was hung on top of this hill. proper consistency and pieces of buffalo In the north east corner of the second hide, tails, and hoofs boiled in water till enclosure is a large pool, laid out with it became viscous like gum in solution. bricks and stones surrounded by a wall The walls are 7 feet thick at the base, 4 with an entrance on each cardinal side and feet at the top; in few places, especially stairs leading to the water edge. It was on the III platform, the height of the stone originally dug by Minphalaung (1571- walls had been raised by 2-3 feet of bricks, 1593 A.D.) but was repaired during the an addition made by the Myanmars after Myanmar occupation of Mrauk-U. On the they had conquered Rakhine. south side lies a well-polished stone slab, The north gate was railed Mathataga 4' 7" high from the socket, 2' 7" broad, (funeral gate); royal funeral processions 6" thick, bearing an inscription in Myanmar left the palace through this gate to the language. cemetary. According to this inscription, it is learnt The lowland space between the first it engraved and second enclosures on the west side that was by Maha Mingyi Kyawzwa who was appointed a governor was once filled with a clear mass of water, by the Kingof Myanmar. on which, in former times, the queen and ofiDhanyawaddy repaired this pool on Wednesday, the princesses would enjoy themselves every He 9thofwaningofPyar/2oin 1183M.E. (Dec. evening on the water in their gilded royal 1821 A.D). The pool was also called Nant- boats to the accompaniment of music amid ?s 1630 A.D, Father Manrique, the Por- Tha Kan (4,00003!), by the Myanmar In tuguese ambassador, stayed with princes Governor. It means' scented- pool'. In fact, for two years at the second terrace with its original Rakhine name had been'Mwi- the permission of Thirithudhammaraza Tha -Kan (^000:00$) meaning The Royal the King (oSSfoogspw) (1622-1638 A.D ) Family Pool'. Besides, according to tra- of Mrauk-U. dition and Rakhine historical annals, the The wall, which circumvallates the pool was used in the coronation ceremony third and topmost terrace, rises to a height of the kings ofMniuk-U Dynasty It measures of 30 feet above the second terrace on 135 feet in length, 135 feet in breadth, the north and east side and 20 feet to 30 24 feet in depth and 540 feet in perimeter. over the level of lowest platform. The stone slab on which the inscription feet the south and west sides are had been written has now been entirely The walls at lower and the space between them are broken and the writing is more or less narrower than those on the north and east defaced, as the people of the village wash sides. These walls had been made to protect their clothes on the stone fragments. Most the palace against the attacks of enemies. of the surrounding walls of this pool are The palace buildings were built of teak in disrepair; within the enclosure and close and were lacquered and gilded. Genuine to water are four square stone pillars, one gold and silver plates were used for at each corner, standing erect; they are decoration on the topmost terrace . The four feet high. Each side measures 1' 6", King and his queens resided in the palace. the two sides turned towards the pool palace was built security-tight. The exhibiting the rude figures of Bilus or The Rakhine kings of Mrauk-U dynasty selected Rakkhas or Giants; in each of whose hand the Japanese samurais (swordsmen) as carries a club. These pillars were erected bodyguards. Now, nothing of interest by Minphalaung. their is known about these samurais. Of the old On the north side of the second wall palace itself, only traces of the walls remain. is a large circular well with a circumference The great palace had been destroyed. of 76 feet, and is built of stone. The well An interesting thing can still be found was also ascribed to Minphalaung and centre of the old palace-site. It is was reserved for use by the King only. at the man-made hole. According to the tra- Besides, an old gate-way can be seen a dition, the hole is said to be an entrance in the east wall of the second terrace. It to an escape route which leads to the outs ide is similar to the cave under the palace- of the palace and is connected with a secret site walling, but really is a secret door tunnel to the Shitthaung Pagoda about half for the passage of the royal family. The north of the palace. It may also door was reserved exclusively for emer- a mile entrance to the underground assembly gency use and was very easy to go out be an hall. On the side of each stone wall is even on fully equipped royal elephants. small hole of 5 inches in diameter, On the south side of the lowest terrace a apparently intended to receive the two ends there was a large Royal Garden. Now, the of a beam, to which a swinging-door was garden has been filled with weeds and attached. During the second world war, grasses and is being used as a playground. two Indian soldiers slipped down that hole The second terrace was made only and had disappeared. for the use of members of the royal family. 29 The Golden Palace and prosperous dynasty. Regretfully, all had been ruined. Nothing can be found on the old palace The early 1 7th century was the Golden Age of Rakhine. In 1599, King Min site except three-step walls. Historian D.G.E Hall had made a remark on the Razagy i conquered Bago, the mostpowerful

Kingdom possessing a white elephant, an palace of Mrauk-U. animal regarded as one of the prestigious Within was the palace-city, built to seven symbols of a 'universal monarch.' the same traditional pattern as Bagan and The possession of the white elephant Inwa and many other old capitals in Asia. passed to the conquerer who gained the The walls may still be traced today, but title 'The Lord of White Elephant'. Mrauk- the palace building, built of teak, have U had grown into an extremely rich city long disappeared. The massive stone walls due mainly to its abundant rice production. and fortifications were erected by King

With a rainfall of between 200 and 300 Minbin (1531-53) against the threat of inches a year the crop never failed while attack in the days of Tabinshwehti. her Indian neighbours suffered from severe According to Rakhine Razawinthit droughts. Thus Mrauk-U had been pros- (the New Rakhine Chronicle), Thirithu- perous from generation to generation. dhammaraza, King of Mrauk-U, in 1622 Moreover, the kings of Mrauk-U had stood A.D, had repaired the palace and the old up successfully against all foreign and city. He repaired the city-wall, the palace- domestic rivals for two hundred years. wall, the fort, the gate, the moat, the A few wars ever fought were short, and palace watchtower, the wooden spire ended mostly in victory. No civil strife (pyathat), and the throne room. had ever ruined the peasantry. Little Another source of information is wonder, then, Mrauk-U had been a rich Manrique's description of Mrauk-U. By

Mix«*

The Royal Palace of Mrauk-U (17th Century depiction)

30 the detailed accounts of the Augustan with scented timber, such as sandalwood Father Manrique who came to Mrauk- and eagle-wood, the latter an aromatic U as an ambassador from Portuguese Goa, wood with a sweet cloying fragrance, we can have a glimpse of scene in the which clang always to it in a damp hot Mrauk-U palace of his time. climate. Passing through these perfumed "From Daingripet (§&<|otoS) the chambers he came to a pavilion known palace was quite visible, for it was less as the "House of Gold", the walls of than half a mile away and stood on a which were plated with gold. Along the rise fifty feet above the creek. Its layout ceiling was a golden creeper, like a melon was similar to that of the Mahamuni. There or a narrow plant, with many gourds or were three enclosures which rose in tiers, pumpkins moulded in the same metal, each bounded by a thick stone wall. The like the vine which at that date was in circumference of the outermost square was the Great Mughals audience hall, though 2,000 yards, the side varying from a quarter that was more in the Chinese style, the to one-third of a mile. Its greatest width leaves of emeralds and the grapes of did not exceed 620 yards. The main garnets. In this chamber were seven idols audience hall and the private apartments of gold, each the size and shape of a were situated in the innermost square,

which measured 218 yards from west to

east, and 293 yards from north to south. They were of teakwood, lacquered and gilded, the roofs carved with figures and rising in spires."

On this occasion his boat landed

him near the steps which led up to the

west gate, in the outermost wall of the

palace-city. He passed through that gate

with others who had permission to attend

the royal leyee and passing in turn through the second and third walls and reached

the topmost enclosure. There stood the

palace proper in front of him, the hall

of audience with it "great wooden pillar

of such length and symmetry that one

would be astonished that trees so lofty and straight could exist."

Manrique was conducted into a The coronation ofthe King Thirhhudhammaraza building, the room of which were panelled of Mrauk-U (J 7th century)

31 in many is the characteristic position found man, the metal being thicker than two other major shrines in urban Buddhist finger breadths. They were covered with centres in South-East Asia and Sri Lanka, precious stones of great size. including Pyu cities in Myanmar. The At the palace, Manrique was shown ground plan of Mrauk-U's palace-site is a golden casket standing on a golden table, similar to the Mahamuni Shrine. It carved with devices and studded with gems. very be associated with the royal ancestors. This casket held some ear-rings. Made may Thus, Shwegutaung was intimately con- of ruby, these ear-rings were shaped like Rakhine length nected with the function of a pyramid. They were about the the Kingship. of a little finger, the base being of

size of a hen's egg. The Fortresses, the Moats and the Walls The above is Manrique's description the City of the palace at about the time of 1630 of A.D. Before giving a description of the Five years later Manrique was for- city's formidable fortifications, we should, tunate enough to find himself at the a background, review the history coronation of the King, Thirithudham- at least as were of the previous Rakhine city, Launggret. maraza. It was in January, 1635. All At the beginning of the 15th century, ready for the celebration of the King's Rakhine had been a pawn in the power coronation. Manrique described part of between the Central Myanmar, what he had seen, as follows: struggle and Lower Myanmar, Bago. The As they entered the triple-walled Inwa Rakhine King, Narameikhla who later fortress the sun rose, its rays suddenly acquired the name Minsawmon had to bringing to life the gilded roofs, which under the gold, flee to Bengal and take shelter flashed as if they were made of insawmon protection of the Sul tan . When M so brilliantly that travellers often restored to the throne of Rakhine, thought the palace was plated with was he reviewed the security position of his gold. The roof of the Hall ofAudience, Then, he concluded that the which was carved with much fancy, country. position of Launggret was was supported by a forest of gilt and geographical for defence against enemy's red lacquer pillars. unsatisfactory on a plain and Shwegutaung Pagoda was built on attacks. It was situated was very easy for enemies to overrun a hilllock close to the north-east corner the city. of the palace-site. It could be seen from Hence, the King Minsawmon selected the upper palace. They were of the same built his new city, Mrauk-U. It stood family from the historical and archaeo- and a lovely valley of about three miles logical view-point. This position in which in wide, wholly enclosed by high rocky the shrine sits at NE site of the palace

32 moats still remain mountains which served as natural for- Most of the walls and to this day and are called Pasoephat tifications. The inner ranges of these standing Moat and mountains had been cut away to make Moat, Kyarkhalaung Moat. And several forts roads from the summits to the plains. Kyakitethama them. These forts were built Forts were built on these mountains and surrounded nearby ridges which were provided with artillery. The city walls on the side of the to south along the Parein plain. did not run all the way in a continuous lay north them Myataung Fortress and line but were built only in the gaps between Among Fortress were more well- the natural barriers: the mountains and Laythartaung.

the tidal rivers. Thus the city walling plan known. system of defence, the was set without any definite limit. The Besides this also built a line of artificial city was not built on the pattern of other kings had eastern side of the city old Rakhine capitals such as Vesali, lakes on the had been made by Dhanyawaddy nor like any other old cities boundary. The lakes the small streams running of Asia. The plan was irregular and its simply damming them Letsekan conformation was dependent on the between the ridges. Among on the south are con- topography of the site. Northern Mrauk- and Anomakan size. U was a tangle of hills and creeks, siderable in three miles in considerably higher and rougher than the Letsekan measures in breadth and about hilllocks within the city and the west was length, half mile feet deep. These lakes supply fresh a lowland intersected with innumerable thirty of the city, and deep creeks which were subjected to the water for the population used for the irrigation violence of hightides. The southern part the water is also

in dry seasons. On the other of the city was filled with stony hills. of crops were so built with dams But on the east side, there stretched the hand, these lakes

if enemies had succeeded plain of Parein (Paungdok) extending up and sluices that through the eastern moats and to the Lemro River. According to the in breaking the waters would Rakhine history, most of the invaders came penetrated into the city, the and drowning naturally out of these directions, as there be released, flooding town were serveral roads leading to the city the invaders. people of the over the high mountains. Accordingly, In such an emergency the citadels and eastern side of Mrauk-U was fortified more city could take refuge in of the pagodas heavily. on the inner hilllocks. Most Dukkhanthein stood The parallel lines of artificial walls like Shitthaung and feet above the and moats were constructed on the eastern on hilllocks at least fifty the city and so were out side between Mukayo Hills and Kassapa mean level of Mraung. These walls were one mile long. of danger of floods. Rakhine history,Min- They were built of sandstone and earth. According to the 33 \1 %'7

Kyakhat Gate Letsekan Gate

34 The City Wall-gates of Mrauk-U Mauktaw Gate

35 bin (1531-53 A.D), the most powerful Kaladan River and Paungdok, the port

King of Mrauk-U Dynasty, had strength for the ships plying the Lemro River as

ened the massive stone walls of the city well as those coming from the southern of Mrauk-U with the help of the Portuguese. provinces (Rammawady, Dwarawady. He also dug a deep moat filled with tidal Maygawady provinces) and Myanmar. water; and when the Bago invaders had This gave the advantages of the port,

penetrated the eastern outskirts of the city, without the attendant risk of a surprise he opened the sluices of his great reservoirs attack by an enemy fleet. In Mrauk-U's

and flooded them out. heyday there was a naval base near city The became bigger in size, as Urittaung (present Ponnagyun). The fleet the defence systems were modified again often assembled there for its campaigns and again whenever deemed threatened to the east and the west coasts.

by Bago in the east and Bengal in the Finally, the north-south distance west. covered by the outermost walls of the

On the west side, there had been Mrauk-U City was 1.4 miles and the east- no man-made moats because there were west distance at its narrowest was about ditches which received the water from a mile and at its widest about a mile the natural small streams flowing down and a quarter. However, a double wall the ridges. This side was a plain but was existed on the north about 700 feet apart, full of tidal deep creeks. No invading the inner one on this side forming a dam army could cross them easily. and a small lake which now has silted

A single stream, Alezi Chaung, up. On the south side a double wall had traverses the lowest part of this valley. also existed. About half a mile further Draining from the hills on the eastern south, two lakes were formed by con-

side of the main ridge, it winds its way necting the ridge tops. The perimeter of 1 south and then westwards, seeking its way the outer city was some twelve miles long.

southwards and then westwards again to Due to the threat of Bago, another enter the Aungdat Chaung. The Rakhines wall was also built about 3,700 feet further

had very cleverly dug these canals south, making this city almost impregnable.

connecting this main stream with the Futhermore, a whole series of reservoirs

Lemro River. In this way, it controlled had been built by connecting the ridges

both the Kaladan and the Lemro Valleys on the east. Mrauk-U was thus made even

and had access to the two main rivers more impregnable than before. The area

by water and by land. of the city, without taking into account

Aungdat, the western side of the the outermost defence line, was nearly

Mrauk-U City, became the main port for 25 miles square, a very big city as one

the foreign ships coming by way of the can see.

36 Manrique's Description of the Golden Mrauk-U City (1629-1635 A.D)

{Translated from Spanish)

Sebastien Manrique was a Portugese virtually an independent Kingdom, with missionary of the Augustinian Order, King Thirithudhammaraza on the throne. who went to Arakan (Rakhine) from India Manrique has left a long and detailed in 1630 and stayed there for about five account of his travels apart of which is years. Arakan (Rakhine) at that time was reprinted below.

Before proceeding with my story, public and private, depending mostly

I think it good to give a special account on these. These boats bring for sale of that Royal City, which gives to the along the aquatic streets all kinds of Kingdom the name of Arracan, the foodstuffs and provisions, rice country-

Metropolis ofthe other kingdoms subject wine, meat, fish (fresh, salted and dried),

to its crown, as we shall say in its butter, vegetables, fruit, and other co-

own place. This great city is built in mestibles; also, sundry commodities and a beautiful valley, about fifteen leagues household utensils; and all these things,

in circuit, and entirely surrounded by the eatables chiefly, are very cheap.

high rough mountains, walls of nature's Besides this convenience for traffic, make, and dispensing with artificial there also many squares (places), called ones. On the inside, these mountains Basars, where the same articles are

have been levelled in necessary parts on sale. with rammers, and where they have The river enters the sea in two

been cut through from top to bottom, places first, at harbour of Oriaiun; and gates have been erected for going in secondly, on the side of the Dobazi, and out, whilst above them are some where live merchants ofdifferent nations, bulwarks provided with artillery, so that the greater number Maumetans, their the city would naturally be impregnable, captain also belonging to that sect. At

as if it belonged to another more warlike the high tide the sea enters the town nation. with great violence by seven gates and

Through the middle of the city runs at the low tide runs off with equal force. a large and copious river, which The violence of the sea is greater or branching off through various parts, smaller according to the rise of the

makes the greater number of its streets water at the full moons; and then It

navigable for different kinds of craft, is very interesting to watch the small big and small, the vehicular service, boats, balons (Balones), going in and

37 These out of the gates, for the water is so any admixture of other materials. violent that the least carelessness of places contain also some rooms made white the part of the pilots makes the boats of odoriferous woods, such as heel over, but the only damage to those and red sandal-wood, wild or forest

inside is that they get a ducking, and eagle-wood, so that in those apartments lose those of their goods that are badly the sense of smell has its special delight, covered and secured. in the naturalfragrance ofthose scented The greater number of the houses woods. there is a hall in the city is made of bamboos, which, In the same palace as I have said, are strong canes, some gilt from top to bottom, which they call because it has of them being very thick. These houses the "Golden House", occupies of reed are covered with plaited palm- a vine of the purest gold which leaves, called Olas. These houses are the whole roofofthehall, with a hundred made according to the means and and odd combalengas of the same pure breadth position of those who get them made, gold. These combalengas are in (calabagas) for much labour and ingenuity is spent andshaped like bigpumpkins on the curious designs offine variegated of the kind we call Guinea pumpkins, mats, very neat and beautiful things. and they- say that each one of them And they manage all that without any weights ten bissas (viss), or forty pounds in that very kind of nailing, for, instead of nails, Spanish. There are also they use strong better ligatures, or rich house seven idols of gold, each Bengala canes, as we call them in ofthe size andproportions ofan average Portugal; while they are still tender man; they are hollow within, but two ascertain and thin, they work them with some inches (dados) thick. I could not iron instruments, called Daos, and make the weight of each of these idols, on them as thin and slender as they live. account of the various estimates given With these ligaments of reed they bind by those whom I questioned. Those idols the pieces of the structure in such a are adorned on the forehead, breast, precious way that, if the supports and pillars arms and waist with many fine and sapphires, are of wood, it lasts twelve or fifteen stones, rubies, emeralds years. Some princes and lords have as also with some brilliant old Rock

also in their palaces some rooms diamonds, of more than ordinary size. (estancias) made of wood, the different In the same golden hall stood eight sculptures and mouldings of the wood- pitchers (cantaros) of gold each four work being gilt andpainted (comaltadas) palms high, seven-inch circumference,

in various colours. and one inch thick. There were also The Royal palaces are also con- nine dishes of the same metal, each structed with the same arundinaecous three palms high thirteen inches in materials; and they have massive wooden circumference, and one inch thick. columns of such extraordinary length This grand and very rich hall and straightness that one wonders there contain still those equally ancient and are trees so tall and so straight. The most celebrated precious Chanequas of past, and inside columns are entirely gilt, without the Tango, the prime cause,

38 L the Empire present, of so many wars and so much King Braka, Tyrant of of bloodshed on the part of various nations, Pegu, who was slain by a Pegu lord he had such as the Siammes, the Pegus, Tangus, called Xemi' Decatam, whom Bramas,Avvas, Sions, (Siones), and now ordered to be killed. While quartering (villa town), at present the Mogos and Mogars. This at a small country-house to a Verela, unique treasure is contained in a casket in some houses belonging withfourthousandBramas, of gold, two palms long and propor- orldo temple, waiting the tionately broad, the whole of it is covered this Brama King was for ordered with very artistic and boughs, flowers rest of his army, which he had marching and birds, and within this tracery are to collect, with the intention of revolted in encased very fine diamonds, rubies and against a prince who had Decatam pearls of extraordinary greatness. This Martavan. Now, one night, Xemi admirable casket stands in the centre with six hundred Pegus fell unexpectedly houses the Vaakto. of the hall on a square table of gold, on him at the of three palms long; this table too is Luck would have it that they found the elaborately engraved, and set with many Tyrant busy in a closet, for he was a rich gems. To stimulate the more human suffering at the time from flux of killed him. The cupidity, it is covered with a cloth of the belly, and they Saint, as white satin, entirely embroidered with' Burmas hold him for a and gold and pearls ofordinary size. I freely such they dedicated a temple to him, aggrandised confess that, albeit I had seen in other because he had so greatly and, to parts of the East many things of great and exalted their nation, they price and value, yet, when they opened perpetuate his memory forever, him. So, the casket for me, and I beheld the resolved to make an image of seated chanequas, I stood amazed, especially they made a bronze figure and around on seeing that 1 could scarcely fix my on a table, also of metal and bronze eyes on them, due to the rutilant splendour him are sundry monsters in of are they cast. These Chanequas are two surprising size. The most wonderful sixteen rubies shaped like an obeliskandpyramid, four giants of both sexs, each their of the length (altura) of the small finger, palms high and holding maces in and the bottom of each has the cir- hands: a monstrous brood. With them cumference of a small hen's egg. These there is another monster of the same most precious jewels are used only at material, half elephant, half bull, eleven the coronation of the Mogo Kings, or palms high, another horrid-looking also bronze in their greatest solemnities. The word object. Still other animals, of chanequa means the same as a pendant, from port of that cortage; but as they or ear-ring, an article worn at the ears are one of ordinary shape and size. both by the Mogos, and the Pegus and The statues of the four Giants were, Bramas; for this purpose, they pierce they say, adorned with many precious their ears when young, and put in them stones, and in the places where they something heavy, which keeps stretching were encased there are still the traces and enlarging them until they reach of them. That statue is venerated by almost the shoulders. many of those Gentiles, who come to In one of the inner courts of that see it, and out of devotion anoint it palace there is also a statue of the with sandal and fragrant oils. And when 39 [ people are afflicted with diarrhoea, they inundate the city and at the same time came to him as to their advocate against destroy the enemy. It is for this reason

that infirmity, bringing vases full of that they still keep these waters. water, they bathe him, and water the To go back to the thread of our which flows out, after passing through history, I say that the city of Arracan his body, is collected and given to drink must have, according to the common to those who suffer from the illness.^ estimate, one hundred and sixty thou- At a small distance from that Royal sand inhabitants, exclusive oftheforeign Palace, there is a lake, the water of marchanls, who are very numerous, as which is dammed off, and they say it the place is a very important roadstead is more than thirty leagues long. The for vessels coming there from Bengala, lake is divided into several arms, Mussulapantan, Tanaussarim, Martavan, containing many islets, quite cool, and Achem, andJacatara: there are, besides, planted with fruit-bearing trees. The other foreigners, both merchants and greater number of these islets (island) soldiers who are fixed there and in are inhabited by Raulins. Some of these live in Varelas, some of their Varias the King's pay, as I have said: these being built like our Convents. Others are Portuguese, Pegus, Bramas, and live in private houses. I shall give a Mogos. In addition to these there are

special account of them all, when I also many Christians, Japons, Bengalas, describe the warship of those nations. and of other nations.

On that big lake there are many boats, The Kingdom ofArracan is limited but they do not communicate with the on the south by the Kingdom of Pegu interrior city, of the as the pasage is from which it is divided by the high dammed up. mountains of the Pre: on the other side, Their ancient histories say that this it borders on the Kingdom of Bengals lake was opened and begun when that through the Kingdom ofChatigan, whence Kingdom seperated and made itself the coast-line runs up to the Kingdom independent from the Empire of Pegu, of Chudube, and Cape Negrais, The the purpose of it being this. In case whole of that coast is very wild; and, they should be besieged, they would though it has some harbours and islets, retire to the suburbs contiguous to the yet these are very unsafe, owing to Lake, and, as a last resource, let the certain winds blowing there, which are waters escape, and the violence of the dangerous to some vessels. onrush would be such that they would

1 ij The statues originally stood as guardians at Cambodia's Ankor Wat. They were among 30 statues taken by Thai in 1431 A.D. In 1564, the Myanmar King Bayin Naung won Ayutthia and carried the statues away to Bago. According to the Rakhine history, King Minrazagyi of Mrauk-U conquered Bago in 1599 A.D. and carried away to his capital of Mrauk-U not only the treasures including these statues from Ayutthia, but also his rival King's daughter and a white elephant. In 1784 Bodawpara's forces took back the surviving statues to Amrapura.

40 Notes

Siamese, the Arracan = The city of Mrauk- Siammes = The U was founded in people of Thailand

1430 A.D.But gen- Pegus = The Peguans, the

erally the term is people of Pegu used for the whole (Bago).

state of Rakhine. Tangus == The people of Maumetans= Muslims, a form the Kingdom of of Mahometans or Taungngu. Mahammedans Bramas = The Burmen, Basars = Bazaar Myanmars = small Rakhine Balons a the Avas := The people of boat Kingdom of Inwa. Chanequas = Kyauk-nagats Siones = The Shans Minrazagyi (1593- Maghs = The Rakhine peo- 1612 A.D.) of ple, (Arakanese) Rakhine attacked = The subjects of the Nandabayin of Mogors Moghul Emperor. Bago in 1599 in = Tabinshwehti(l531- alliance with the TheBrama of the Prince of Taungngu. King 50 A.D.) Manrique says the Taungngu Dynasty,

Rakhine and Portugese seized Bago in

sacked Taungngu 1539, and made it

after the fall of his capital. Bago, and brought Xemi = Shm'in Sawhtut, a away the Kyauk- Decatam Bago nobleman Taungngu. nagats from Raulins = Phongyis, a Mo- But history disa- hammedan term. grees with him Jacatara = Batavia about the raid of Mogors = Muslim, Indians. Taungngu.

41 F06 The Historical Sites in Mrauk-U

NORTHERN SIDE

The Shitthaung Pillar red sandstone column, 8' 10" high above

The pillar is very well-known and is the ground. The circumference around the situated at the left hand side (northern) base measures 72" (9" to each side);

entrance of the Shitthaung Pagoda. It is towards the apex there is a band decoration said to have been brought from Vesali consisting of an enclosed row of dots to Mrauk-U, and placed at this site by and a double lotus petal motif, with a King Minbin, in 1535 A.D who reigned major petal at each of the eight corners.

over Rakhine from 1513 to 1553 A.D. Close to the pillar lies a large stone It had fallen during the bombardment in slab, 12' long, 4* 2" broad and 10-12"

the second world war and has been re- thick. At the lower end, depicted in relief,

erected in a cage near the same entrance. is a wavy line suggestive of water, from The pillar is square, rising to a height which rises a right-voluted winged conch of 10 feet; each side is 2' 4" broad. Three shell with a lotus growing from the sides are covered with inscriptions in aperture, the tip of the petals touching

Sanskrit; that, facing the east is almost the outer edge of an ornately carved wheel entirely defaced; the inscription on the symbolising dhammacakka (©««&), (the north side is also badly damaged; the Wheel of the Law) its outer rim enclosing western face inscription is best preserved. a circle of dots, and the inner rim comprising The south side has not been inscribed. a double lotus petal motif. Dr. Johnston was the first to read the The design appears to be emblematic western face inscription fully. It was dated ofBrahmanism (the conch), which produced on palaeographic grounds as the beginning Buddhism (the lotus flower), the of the 8th century A.D. His readings reveal dhammacakka. a list of kings who ruled in ancient On the other hand, the design suggests Rakhine. Although the eastern side of pillar the fertility and prosperity (lotus) which is now completely illegible it can be dated arises from the waters (wave and conch) between 3rd century and 6th century A.D. when the Cakravartin ( ngora: ) Monarch It is considered to be the inscription of (wheel) holds sway. The motif constantly early Rakhine kingdoms, mostly appears in Ancient Rakhine's art. Dhanyawaddy. At the upper end of the wheel is a square hole sunk into the stone, 5" An Evidence of Early Buddhism deep, 2' 4" long, and 2' 8" broad; next follows a circular, cup-like hole, 4" deep The inscription nearby is an octagonal and 6" across the opening; the reverse

42 rains would ensure of the stone is only a rough-hewn surface. the coming of the which As the sides of the inscribed pillar also the continuing prosperity of the Kingdom. of the lintal measure 2' 4", Dr.Forchhammer suggested Hence, the cakra (eg ) that the stone slab, which must have been was depicted as merging into pillar, on 8-20' which, as we shall see, the continuity from .1 long, but is broken off above the cup-like hollow, was originally a lintal of the dhamma of the Rakhine Cakravartin or architrave, the square hole capped the Kings was recorded. inscribed pillar forming the left-hand post The form of the pillar on the opposite of the entrance gate; the circular hollow side is also not without significance. In received the revolving axis of a swinging common with other pillars associated with door; that portion of the lintal which Cakravartin Kingship, it is eight-sided, exhibits the dhammacakka, the lotus and symbolising the eight directions of the conch, protruded over the north-side of macrocosmiccountryandthemacrocosmic the inscribed pillar to counterbalance the universe (see. "Asokan" pillars)- The weight of the opposite part of the slab decoration around the upper portion is (now broken) which formed the actual identical with that of the cjakkra on the petal in each corner lintal over the entrance, the octagonal pillar lintal, the lotus constituted the right-hand post of the suggesting that the effect of the royal entrance. dhamma was to be felt in each of the The construction of the gate forcibly eight corners. Its significance was still calls to mind the "turning of the Wheel remembered in the 16th century, when of the Law", the essential function of King Minbin had it erected and built at Shitthaung the Buddhist Cakravartin King, to whom his remarkable royal shrine, the the was given the power to regulate the celestial Pagoda. But all were ruined during and terrestrial forces in order to control second world war.

Stone pillar of the Shitthaung Pagoda Stone Sculpture of the Shitthaung Pagoda t *G

44 The Shitthaung Pagoda About half a mile north of the palace- site is the Shitthaung Pagoda or the Shrine of 80,000 images. It stands on a promontory half way up to the west side of a hillock named Phokhaung Taung (^tcslcecnoc).

The donor ofthe Shitthaung was Minbargy i, the most powerful king of the Mrauk- U Dynasty. According to the stone script- inscription he was also called as Minbin and reigned Rakhine from 1531 to 1553 A.D. The King built this remarkable Pagoda in 1535 A.D after the successful defence against the Portuguese attack on the City of Mrauk-U. The pagoda had been built by one thousand architects and workmen for a year. The skill and art displayed in its construction and ornamentation are re- markable. Besides, we may observe here about the maze-like layout of this pagoda. In the accounts of this curious plan, some foreigners remarked that the Shitthaung

Views of the Shitthaung Pagoda

45 Pagoda was built alike a fortress. The Rakhine characters. This pillar was brought real purpose of the pagoda was for prayer, from Mintayapyin(»c;co€p:(oc). According some rituals of initiation, and some of to the inscription, the pillar was engraved the King's ceremonies which were usually by order of King Minrazargyi in 1593 held secretly. A.D. In the upper pillar there is a sculpture It was constructed six feet thick of of the King and his four ministers. Close solid sandstone and like "rock cave tunnel" to the inscribed pillar lies an image of (ea^pragoc). No mortar was used in the King Minbin, the donor of this Shitthaung construction and stones were connected Pagoda. with stone brackets. Opposite the entrance is a main image

The first platform appears to contain of Buddha, seated on a throne with two small pagodas all built of sandstone. \bumiphasa mudra\.Th& image is 9 feet They were said by tradition to have been in height. built by the donor of the Shitthaung Pagoda, The central pagoda measures 160 feet King Minbin. They were called Nay Htwet long, 124 feet broad, and 86 feet high. Para (Sun Arise Pagoda) and Nay Win On the north and south walls stand at Para (Sun Set Pagoda). regular intervals circular, turret-like

Nay-HtwetPara is octagonal; the sides pagodas. There are one bigger and fourteen are concave and the entrance faces the smaller ones on the north and a bigger east. Another small pagoda is Nay Win one and seventeen smaller ones on the Para, a stupa shape with a circular base. south and were built of brick; between

The King Minbin built these pagodas to each turret a stone slab is erected into show his dominion and autocracy. the wall. Both sides of the slab contain The inner temple court east of the sculptures in bold relief; the side facing main shrine is occupied by a wooden the inner temple usually represents an pray r -ha)l which houses innumberable image of Buddha, the outer side an ogre, Buddha images. Before entering the main naga or mythical birds or beasts. One hall is a stone pillar with inscriptions in depicts a cobra with spreading hood

The Shitthaung Pagoda (southern side)

46 holding a lotus flower in its mouth. The general merry-making.

shrine itself has a gallery all-round the The first, second, third, fourth, and structure and a dark passage which leads fifth belts depict the 550 earlier lives of to the inner chambers. The outer wall Buddha. There are over a thousand contains at regular intervals arched passages; sculptures. each holds two sitting life-size images The topmost girdle shows human of Buddha; they are placed back to back. figures, male and female in praying attitude. The inner wall consists of well-hewn From these inscribed sculptures one can

blocks of stone cut over its whole length learn something about old Rakhine musical (312') into six tiers of figures. The corner instruments and traditional dances. was placed with large four centra! figures Along the gallery, each corner and («ap[CGoo:ep), such as King Brahmans each side was provided with both female

(j§<_£o) of SE corner, Thaagur-min (o8[crp:a£:) and male figures of Vasundhra (oooe[|<&oo) surrounded by his four queens of NE like a sima slab(o8ao^c). Therefore, Shit- corner, Salu-Lokapaia (oo^Gcenroolco) of thaung was also regarded as a sima NW corner, the donor, King Minbin (ordination hall). surrounded by ministers and queens of Along the other two inner galleries SW corner. are deposited hundreds of Buddha images The lowest belt of the pagoda re- of varying sizes. A sculpted Buddha's foot-

presents men in native (Rakhine) costume, print is placed in the last passage. It is manner and tradition, in the manners of plain; there are no figure-prints on the wrestling. boxing, dancing, playing, and sole of an upturned foot.

4

i^t^^'"!-^-.-.;

Plan of the Shitthaung Pagoda

47 r

48

Views of the Shitthaung Pagoda

50 -

The Andaw Shrine

The Andaw Shrine (Southern Side)

The Andaw Shrine, in which is The shrine is an octagonal structure enshrined a tooth-relic of Buddha, stands of pure sandstone, with two internal

at a distance of 86 feet to the north- octangular concentric passages. Fifteen east of the Shitthaung Pagoda. This shrine small circular pagodas, built of bricks stand was originally built by Min Hla Raza on the platforms of south, north and west

in 1521 A.D. The King of Mrauk-U, of the shrine. On the east, there is a

Minrazagyi, rebuilt it in 1596 A.D. The prayer hall, which has an entrance each central tower of the shrine contains the on the east, north, and south sides; a

tooth-relic of Buddha, which is said to stone wall divides it from the outer court, have been obtained from Sri Lanka by which is also circumpassed by a wall. King Minbin (1534 - 1542 AD). The east facade of the shrine measures

fym y.

/.,.*. *~--.. .;, .. ,,,.;...... ,..^

cross-section of the Andaw Shrine (from west east)

51

Views of the Andaw Shrine 52 31 feet from north to south and is only east, and west to the inner chamber, which 14 feet high from the ground to the roof. is also octagonal in shape. At the centre On each side of the entraee are three stands an eight-cornered stone pillar 40' niches which get into the wall, 6' high, in circumference. It supports the roof. Like 1' 2" deep, and 2' wide, and these contain the Shitthaung Pagoda, the Andaw is 5 stone images of Buddha. Passing through constructed throughout with stone blocks. the vaulted passage a gallery opens on No light nor air can penetrate into the either side. Each is 3' 7" wide and 9' shrine except through the front entrance. high. The gallery runs in an octagonal The roof is about shape around the central chamber; each ten feet thick. Over each of the of the outer sides of the passage measures eight corners of the shrine stands 20' and each contains a row of four niches a smaller pagoda. At the centre, with a semicircular arch 2' above the there stands a large pagoda. ground, and a second row of smaller niehes Andaw Shrine stands on a small at the height of 7, four to each side, square-shaped hillock. The hillock, includ- and the niches hold stone images of ing shrine and pagoda, measures 228 feet Buddha. from east to west and 145 feet from north From the inner side of the gallery to south and 42 feet in height from ground a vaulted passage leads from north, south, to top.

*

J>

• o

Plan of the Andaw Shrine

53 The Ratanabon Pagoda But the barreness of decorative designs

and the absence of structural ornamen- Forty feet to the north of the outer tations characterizes itas peculiarly Rakhine. wall of the Aridaw Shrine stands the Traditionally it is believed that the enclosure of the Ratanabon Pagoda. The pagoda was built for the purpose of pagoda was built by Minkhamaung and acquiring or securing treasures, both his chief queen Shin Htway in BE. 974 mundane and spiritual. {Ratana means (A.D. 1612). The main edifice is circular "treasure", "bon" means to gather, to at the base, measures 365 in circumference, accumulate.) and is constructed of huge blocks of sandstone; it rises in a number of concentric The Dukkhanthein Pagoda tiers, of which the upper portion recedes from the one lying beneath it, to a height About 350 feet to the west of Ratanabon of about 200 feet. The uppermost portion Pagoda, 300 feet to the north-west of the has fallen down. During the second world entrance to the Shitthaung Pagoda is the war, the Ratanabon Pagoda was hit by Dukkhanthein Pagoda. The temple stands a bomb, and a half of the main structure on a hill, 30 feet high, having a flat surface was damaged. like that of a drum. The pagoda was built There are no entrances, niches, arches, by King Minphalaung in 1571 -A.D. nor ornamentation of any kind, not even Like the Shitthaung and the Andaw an image could be found. At a distance shrines, Dukkhanthein was built of hewn of eight feet from the central stupa rises sandstones and layers of bricks over the a brick wall 4' high and 2 1 thick, which roof. It measures 190 feet from north to encompasses the pagoda in circle; then south and 200 feet from east to west. follows a row of 24 small circular pagodas It is reached by stone stairways, 8' broad, built of brick. They are now all in ruin. situated on the east and south. These This pagoda resembles a huge bell. The stairways measuring 106 feet are built whole structure is enclosed by an octagonal of massive stone walls on the north, east wall 8-10' thick, with an entrance at the and south. The west one which is slightly south. Each of the four corners of the convex, is connected to an oblong chamber. outer pagoda walls is protected by a lion The pagoda entrance on the east side, made of sandstone. closer to the south-east corner, leads to The temple court is in ruin. The a long vaulted passage which spirals up building is impressive by its massiveness. in two tiers till it reaches the central Its architecture pattern resembles an or- chamber. The superstructure, a bell-shaped dinary pagoda, like Kaung-Mu-Daw dome on receding terraces, is similar to (Sagaing in Myanmar) and Sanchi in India. 54 the one on Shitthaung, but here a tall square arch is provided on the east side to admit light into the central chamber. At each corner of the basement stands a small stupa. The inner chambers and passages of the temple are constructed with wellfitting and cemented stones. The pagoda is well-known for the stone sculptures in the vaulted passages, es- pecially the figures of seated ladies, with different styles of coiffure, in the manner of offering lotus buds to the Buddha.

Traditionaly it is said that there are sixty- four kinds of hair-style and all the figures are of the wives of noblemen. Besides, on both sides of the entire passage, niches of 1 -jr feet broad, 1 foot deep, and

2 feet high are dug at regular intervals of 20 feet in the wall and each contains a stone image of the Buddha in sitting posture. There are one hundred and forty- six niches along the passage. Plan of the Dukkhanthein Pagoda

'WmMiM^Mm \

Cross-section of the Dukkhanthein Pagoda 55 The Ratanabon Pagoda

The Dukkhanthein Pagoda

56 .

are situated The Laymyetnha Pagoda Myatanzaung. These pagodas on a hillock, 40 feet high. The main feet to the About a distance of 150 structures of these pagodas are constructed Pagoda north-west of the Dukkhanthein of blocks of pure sandstone. But turrets, or "the four- is the Laymyetnha Pagoda staircases and walls were built of bricks. facaded pagoda". It was built by King Minsawmon, the King of Mrauk-U Minsawmon, the first king of Mrauk-U Dynasty, erected these pagodas in 1430 Dynasty, in 1430 A.D. It is one of the A.D. These two are of the same type, of five pagodas built at the beginning measuring 120 feet in circumference, and

the establishment of the city {JS^cngSsoco 50 feet high. a cliso). It is a square structure, with long protruding portal towards each cardinal The Mokseiktaw Pagoda point. The interior room is octagonal. In Myatanzaung and at the centre of the latter there is an octahedral To the north of Mokseik- column intended to support the circular a distance of 300 feet is the which tower erected over the centre of the roof. taw Pagoda. It stands on a hillock was erected Over each of the four corners of the terrace rises to 100 feet. The pagoda the in 1430 A.D. a smaller circular stupa was built, by King Minsawmon wall, to the chronicles, Mok- whole structure is enclosed by a According of the five city- thereby leaving a spacious platform. Each seiktaw is also one the new city of side of the square of the shrine measures settlement pagodas in

55': the portals are 13' broad and protrude Mrauk-U. terraces on this hillock. 17' into the platform. There are two situated on me The central tower is circular and has A Pitakataik (Library) is library is built of the shape of a dome, with a circumference lower terrace. The of the monasteries of 80 feet at the base and is 70 feet pure sandstone. Most especially the high. and pagodas of Mrauk-U and monasteries and the pagodas It is constructed of sandstone large teaching usually had a library appears to be massive. The small stupa donated by the kings, 8' 30' cir- to them. The height of the main is built of brick, high and attached ground and 100 cumference at the base. This is bell-shaped pagoda is 50 feet above base. The Each side of the chamber contains feet in circumference at the and has a bell- twenty-eight niches, each holding an image central pagoda is circular stands on each of of Buddha in sitting posture. shape. A small turret the four corners. On the eastern side of

is an image of a foot- The Myatanzaung Pagodas the pagoda there print of the Buddha, 34 inches long, on and To the north of Laymyetnha Pagoda a large stone. The foot-print is plain no marks at a distance of 500 feet are Myatanzaung the sole of foot-print shows Pagodas. There are two pagodas named nor any lineaments by which chiromancy Eastern Myatanzaung and Western could interpret. 57 F 8 r

The Laungbanpyauk Pagoda

The Laungbanpyauk Pagoda stands at centre is an octagonal pyramid; each side a distance of 500 feet to the Mokseiktaw. meassures at the base 33 feet and rises The pagoda. was built by Minkhaungraza in ever-receding tiers to a height of about in 1525 A.D. It is surrounded by two 120 feet (at present only 75 feet remains.). walls. The outer surface of the inner wall There is no hii at the top. is decorated with fine designs and is formed On the first tier, at the middle of by stones projecting an inch out of the each of the eight sides, originally stood wall; at the centre of each is a rosette, a porch consisting of two square pillars containing eight coloured clay tablets of forming the sides of the porch. Each niche red, yellow, blue, and green alternately, contains an image of the Buddha. The with a white centre. The diameter of the outer surface of the ornament is 1' 8". appendage displays an exquisite An opening in the east and one from pattern of carving in stone.

the west lead to a platform raised about The design is so fine and outstanding

6 feet above the level of surrounding that it has been recorded in detail by

ground. The massive stone pagoda at the well-known architects.

Facade of the Laungbanpyauk Pagtnla //

The Laungbanpyauk Pagoda

The Htuparyon Pagoda The Tharapavata Pagoda

About 300 feet to the north of One hundred and fifty feet from the Laungbanpyauk Pagoda stands the south-west of Htuparyon Pagoda, and very Htuparyon Pagoda. According to the local close to the north of Mokseiktaw Pagoda, records, Htuparyon was erected by King is Tharapavata hillock, 150 feet high. The Minranaung, the sixth king of Mrauk- U Dynasty, in 1494 A.D. In the year pagoda stands on this hill. A wall surrounds of 1613 A.D the King Minkhamaung and the pagoda, 134 feet long and 84 feet his chief queen, Shin Htway rebuilt this broad. The pagoda is built of massive pagoda. The pagoda is built of stone blocks stones. It is about 21 feet high, 54 feet and the base is octagonal. The spacious broad at each of the four-sides of the temple court is surrounded by a wall which base. The first tier contains the sculptures is in disrepair. Each of the four corners of lions, elephants and deer. of the pagoda walls is guarded by the figure of a lion having two bodies and The ruins of sima are found on the a head. Among the natives it is called east side of the pagoda. A small standing man-lion or manotethiha. The walls are Buddha made of stone, 5 feet high, is thought to be the walls of a square sima found on the ruined square sima. or of the ordination hall for Buddhist The platform is scattered here and monks. there with the ruins of pagodas, images, At present, the pagoda is in ruin, and pedestals, neglected. But, in the golden days of damaged pillars and many other Mrauk-U the Htuparyon Pagoda was a pieces. A few years ago, a standing image wellknown site for pilgramage. Most of was found unexpectedly on the platform the kings in Mrauk-U Dynasty came to of the pagoda. An inscription in Sanskrit pay respects to this pagoda soon after was found on the pedestal of the image. their coronations. Traditionally, it was The script was dated, on palaeographic believed by the kings that the site was grounds, to "The Land of Victory and Prosperity", be between 4th and 8th and was very highly venerated. centuries, A.D.

59 £$'#&!£

The Pitakataik

About one hundred yards to the north is also known as Shinkite Pitakataik, east of Htuparyon Pagoda is the Pitakataik {Shinkite means mosquito-bite) and is one of the forty-eight libraries in Mrauk-U or the Library. It was donated by the capital. The entrance is an arched passage King Minphalaung in 1591 A.D. The which opens on the east. According to building had been used as a depository the Rakhine history, the Buddhist scrip- for the Buddhist scriptures and it measures tures, the thirty sets of Tipitaka, which 14 feet from the east to west, and 10 Narapatigyi (1 638- 1 645 A.D) had received feet from north to south and 9 feet high. from Sn Lanka were deposited in this

It is built entire! v of stone. This Pitakataik library- #"*"%

M

One other interesting thing is the city the wall. This site, the wall and the moat,

wall which is .one situated at fifty feet to the had been used as the last defence during north Pitabttaik. of It is a brick wall about the times 'of wars and at one time was E 4 feet high and 2 feet thick. It runs from the camping-ground of Rakhme main ' south-east to north-west across the bottom army. of the valley between the base of the "rfi eastern and western hill ranges. A few- The facade of the Pitakaiaik (left) feet to tbi> the north of this wall is the Southern side the Pitakatuik Panzemraung moat which runs parallel of (above)

61 The Pyisoegyi Pagoda of 100 yards to the south f of Pitakataik. Princess Anowzaw, daughter of Kins About 200 yards to the north of Salingathu (1494-1501 A.D), built thi"s Pitakataik is Shinkitewall. Close to the pagoda in the lovely valley in 1501 A.D. north stands another city-wall named Today, the pagoda is badly ruined. Tharikonboung. Beyond it is the According to the records, the base and Panzemraung, a moat which stretches in the first four tiers are octagonal; the next a bowline from the north-west of the town four are square and the topmost is circular. to the north-east. On the opposite side, The circumference of the pagoda at the it is lined by two ranges of the hills, base measures 160 feet, and it is devoid leaving a flat valley half a mile broad, of any ornamentation. filled with water throughout the year. Only a Buddhist image, made of stone, Further east, along the ridge about and 9 feet high, remains. It is seated on a few hundred yards away is the Pyisoegyi a pedestal which is ornamented with Pagoda. An old Pitakataik stands near numerous sculptures depicting scenes from the pagoda. This Pitakataik is similar to the Jatakas (mostly animals figures), each the Shinkite Pitakataik. It is also decorated scene for each Jataka. with fine sculptures. The pagoda and the A few yards to the south-west of pitakataik were donated by a Pyisoegyi. Anoma Pagoda stands the Shwekyathein ' The Rakhine royal term Pyisoegyi is Pagoda. This pagoda is built of sandstone. equivalent in rank to a prime minister On its upper terrace there are some very of the present time. fine ornamentations consisting of lotus- A few hundred yards towards the end flowers. of the eastern range is Minthamitaga (or) Princess watergate. The Watergate was The Minpaung Pagoda made of solid stone. It measures 9 feet high, 30 feet long and 10 feet broad. The Minpaung Pagoda is situated on Close to the south side of Minthami a small ridge fifty feet to the south of gate was once a swimming pool in which, Anoma Pagoda. It is also called Atai- in former times, the princesses spent the seti (central pagoda). It was built by Min- evenings gaily in their gilded royal boats. khamaung and his chief queen Shin Htway The pool was also used as a moat. in 1640 A.D. The pagoda is enclosed In war time, if it was necessary, the water in walls decorated with figures of dragons. gate could be opened quickly and filled At present, the pagoda has a height of the dry moat of the Tharikonboung with 40 feet and 290 feet in circumference water. at the base. A passage leading to the the To north of the Pyisoegyi Pagoda central chamber is vaulted and curved, and the Minthami water-gate is 7 feet long and 6 feet wide. M inthagyikon. It is a little hillock, measuring 70 feet high, 200 feet wide and 170 feet The Mahabodhi Shwegu long. In former times this site was used as a special ground for the crown prince. To the south of the Alaiseti Pagoda Nearby, to the south are Yehla moat and at a distance of 300 feet and to the south Yehla fortress which is said to be an east of the Laungbanpyauk at a distance ancient type of security arrangement. of 400 feet, is the Mahabodhi Shwegu Pagoda. It is, like the Ratanabon Pagoda, The A noma Pagoda belbshaped and octagonal from the base to the top. Each side measures at the The Anoma Pagoda base stands at a distance 13 2 feet (106 feet in circumference)

62 feet wrde. Each side, except the eastern and rises in ever-receding tiers to a height side, has a staircase. In the eastern side of about 30 feet. It is constructed with stands as a natural walling. blocks of sandstone. An arched passage Nattaung itself pagoda was built entirely of opens towards the east. Along the walls The The dome was ruined. Today of inner side of the passages are decorated sandstone. feet of it remains standing and with stone sculptures depicting the 550 only 20 a base of 80 feet in circumference. Jatakas of Buddha's life. These sculptures it has enter the chamber there is a cave are like the mirrors of Rakhine's culture. To side. The cave The chamber contains an image of Buddha passage on the eastern with very fine sculptures, made of stone 6 feet high. Numerous stone is decorated ogre, lotus and griffin. sculptures (figures) around the pedestal such as birds, most of the sculptures are now are modelled in pure Rahkhine style. But broken and the platform is covered here broken images, The Ratanasanraway Pagoda and there with the ruins of sculptures, damaged pedestals, pillars, etc. the middle of all these ruins, in the This pagoda is situated on the second In sectum there lies a large image range of Nattaung Hill. A few yards to central Buddha in stone, 9 feet high. the south of Mahabodhi Shwegu is the of seated wall of the precinct of Ratanasanraway Pagoda Pagoda. The pagoda was donated and built The Ratanathinkha by King Basawphyu, the third king of Ratanathinkha Pagoda is situated Mrauk-U Dynasty, in 1459 A.D. The wall The small hillock named Galontaung measures 112 feet long, 88 feet, broad on top of a Mountain) at a distance of and has a staircase and an entrance in (Galon-bird hundred yards to the south of the the west. The pagoda is now in ruin. one Hence, the pagoda is also The upper portion of the main pagoda Ratanamhankin. called Galontaung Pagoda. The pagoda is circular, measuring 130 feet in circum- together with a stone pillar ference and 28 feet in height today. There was erected the 1581 A.D by Prince Mingyinyo. is an entrance, an arched passage, on m a grandson of King Minbin, east-side of the pagoda. The chamber He was the most powerful kings in the contains a seated Buddha image, 7 feet one of Dynasty. According to the high. The pedestal is an octagonal structure Mrauk-U on the stone pillar of this of sandstone and was built of eight stages. inscription pagoda, Mingy inyo's father was King Each stage is ornamented with numerous reigned in Rakhine residing designs. Mintikha who in the Mrauk-U Palace, from 1553 to 1555 with The Ratanamhankin Pagoda A.D. The pagoda was constructed sandstone. Eight turrets and small pagodas pagoda. The Ratanamhankin Pagoda stands on in bricks surround the central the third range of the same hill, Nat- Ratanamanaung Pagoda taung, about one hundred yards away to The the south of the Ratanasanraway. Pagoda stands The Ratanamhankin was also erected The Ratanamanaung few yards away to the east of by the King Basawphyu in 1468 A.D, about a Ratanathinkha. The pagoda was donated a year after the donation and erection Candathudhammaraza in 1652 of the Ratanasanraway. by the King is a solid stone structure, octagonal The pagoda is walled on three sides, A.D. It to the top, and measures north, south and west, with pure stones. from the base at the base and The wall measures 150 feet long and 75 344 feet in circumference 63 180 feet high. There are no niches, porches, davizaya, the 34th king of Mrauk-U opening, nor decorative designs on the Dynasty, in the years between 1720 and main body of the structure. In the north- 1722 A.D. In the inscription, the King west corner of the enclosure is a sima, described himeself as" the great-great- 54 feet long, 13 feet broad, and 10 feet grandson of Narapatigyi who erected the high. The roof is vaulted and made of Mingalamanaung Pagoda." stone, but partly in ruins. There are a few other small shrines on the platform, The Nan-Oo Image but they are completely ruined. distance The field to the east of the The Nan-Oo image stands at a Ratanamanaung was called Laykhinpyin of 100 yards to the south-east of the feet and (g

622- 1 A.D). The lake. The lake was man-made and built Thirithudhammaraza (1 638 with earthern embankments. The fresh platform is scattered with ruined sculp- sculptures are water in this moat had been used in the tures. Some of the broken coronations of the kings of Mrauk-U collected at the north of the entrance. Dynasty. About 150 yards to the south-west A few distance to the south of of the Nan-Oo image is an interesting Ratanamanaung, facing the Ahiwankan city-walling which is said to be an ancient It stretches moat, is the Zonedat Hill (^jcogoooc). The type of security arrangement. feet in length from hill is about 150 feet high. It was so about one thousand with important a closed fortress for the palace east to west. The wall was built connected that the king had appointed a chief blocks of sandstone and was wall also served commander to guard it. to two small ranges. The as a protective barrier for the area between The Mingalamanaung Pagoda the two small ranges and was provided with artillery. This guarded the city against A mile to the north of the palace- possible attacks from the northern side. site, half a mile to the north-west of the An old stone-tower and a stone-gate are

Pitakataik is the Mingalamanaung Pagoda. still in good condition in this walling. The pagoda was erected by Narapatigyi in the years between 1638 and 1645 A.D. The Tapantaing Palace-site Other sources ascribe the pagoda as being yards built by the King Oakkabala (grgooco) On a small hillock, about 400 the image, in 1685 A.D before he died. The pagoda to the south-east of Nan-Oo Palace site. It stands is an octagonal solid stone spire, without is the Tapantaing porches, niches, or ornamental works. The in the plain of the eastern hill range which court pagoda is very similar in shape to the levels off into a broad platform. The tablets. Tezarama Pagoda. The ground of the is paved with fine coloured clay

pagoda is scattered with ruins of pagodas. In former times this site was used On the south side of the stupa are four as a special recreational ground for prin- stone slabs one side of which is covered cesses and ladies. Along the eastern base with Rakhine inscriptions. One of them of the hill are numerous broken bricks

is completely damaged, scripts on the other and traces of buildings and other vestiges three are legible. According to the in- indicating that the s ite had been an important scriptions, these were set up by King Can- area at one time.

64 The Laymyetnha Pagoda

The Laungbanpyauk Pagoda 65 F09 A The Shinkite PUakataik

The Ratanamanaung Pagoda 66 EASTERN SIDE

The Sakyamanaung Pagoda

The Sakyamanaung is situated a half mile north-east of the palace-site, some distance away to the south of the Ratanamanaung Pagoda. The pagoda was built in 1629 A.D by the King Thirithudhammaraza who reigned in Mrauk-U in the years between 1622 and 1638 A.D. The plan of the base of the pagoda

is peculiar. The base consists of eight braces joined to form an irregular octagon, and the braces forming the side on the four cardinal points are wider than the intermediate ones. From the first tier upward the structure

is octagonal; the sides over the four main braces form a straight line, and those over

Cross-section of the Sakyamanaung Pagoda

F09 B 67 r

The Sakyamanaung Pagoda (northern side)

the intermediate braces assume a zigzag design.

After the ninth tier the shape of the spire becomes circular and continues to be so up to the top. On each side of the second and third tier stands a niche, (or rather a porch) containing a sitting image of Buddha. The facade of the porch contains ornamental designs similar to those found at the Laungbanpyauk Pagoda. The circumference of the pagoda at the base is 280 feet and the whole structure is a solid stone work throughout. The pagoda is still in a fairly good state of preservation. It is 114 feet high.

The enclosing stone wall is of simple construction and it has an opening in the east and west side.

The western gate is guarded by two huge giants in kneeling posture. Twelve turrets were built in the platform which surrounded the pagoda. The giant in kneeling posture

68 The Wuntinattaung lap, wearing long earings. Behind the head is a circular nimbus, backed by rings of This is the oldest historical site in aureole. This pattern stretches to the side Mrauk-U. It is situated on a hill to the of the body, in the manner of some south of the Sakyamanaung Pagoda, at Mahamuni sculptures of the 5th century a distance of 400 yards to the east of A.D. Thus, it is considered quite possible the palace site. This hill is called Wuntinat- that the Wuntinattaung in Mrauk-U had taung by the natives. There are sculptures flourished in the eras between the 5th which are all ruined. The platform is strewn and the 9th century A.D like other ancient with damaged stones which at one time Rakhine cities such as Vesali and formed the parts of an ancient Nat shrine. Dhanyawaddy . According to the local records the shrine is related to the King Paiphyu, The Winmana Paddy-store-house the son of Candadevi,who was chief queen in the era of Vesali (4th to 8th century About 400 yards to the east of A.D). He had built a palace on Wuntinattaung is the Winmana paddy- Gyettharetaung in MraukTJ in 776 A.D. store-house. It was one of the forty paddy- A few stone images and two inscriptions houses in Mrauk-U inner city and had were found on the plalace ground and been the strongest and biggest among them. these are exhibited in the Mrauk-U Museum. This paddy-house was built with blocks An inscription which was partly defaced of stone and was surrounded by walls and a record were found there. The script and moats. A water-gate was constructed describes the repairing of the shrine. in the north. According to the script, the shrine was repaired by the King Minraza in the year The Neikbuzar Pagodas Sakkaraj 883 M.E. (1521 A.D). This Close to the inscription is one of the stone-scripts east of the Winmana written in old Rakhine language. Another paddy-house is a small range named the Neikbuzar Hill. There are inscription is more interesting. It was found three pagodas on the hill. on Wuntinattaung Hill. The script and The southern pagoda is called the the general character of the inscription Auk-Neikbuzar (lowerNeikbuzar). It is bell-shaped. The prayer court are remarkable in that it resembles the contains a seated Pali inscriptions found at Sriksetra and image of Buddha, 10 feet high. Two other which belonged to the 6th or 7th century images of nats belonging to A.D. the Vesali period, 4th to 8th century A.D, were situated The Wuntinattaung inscription, there- in this court. It is possible that the Wuntinattaung fore, serves as an important cultural link and the Neikbuzar were between Sriksetra and northern Rakhine, simultaneously influenced by Vesali Mrauk U. civilization. Climbing towards the range can Then, there are some -tone images; one reach another pagoda called Ahlai they are almost entirely damaged and most Neikbuza (middle Neikbuzar Pagoda) are defaced. One image shows Buddha (33cocjocrjep:)which is in ruins. sitting cross-legged, with tne right hand The another one called PanmaNeikbuza (main Neikbuzar on the right knee, the left resting on the Pagoda) is situated on m r

the top of the same hill. All Neikbuza image of Buddha, 12 feet and 5 inches Pagodas were built in 1527 A.D by the high on a lotus throne. King Min Saw Oo. A few steps to east There were a few old iron melting of the main Neikbuzar Pagoda lies another factories in the vicinity of the Paraoke group of the pagodas called Paranyinaung Pagoda Hill. (brother pagodas) (c^cp;g§G

is Miparagyigu (cave of chief queen), on Paraoak Pagoda Hill about two hundred

top of a small hillock. In the main chamber yards away is the Minkhaungshwetu

of this cave, there is a sitting stone image Pagoda. The pagoda is decorated with of Buddha, about 10 feet high. The image various fine sculptures. The erection of

was donated by the Queen Sawthandar, this pagoda is ascribed to Natshinmae,

a chief queen of the King Mintaikkha, a chief queen of King Thirithudhammaraza,

in 1553 A.D. in 1629 A.D. According- to the local records, the pagoda was built at the same The Paraoke Pagoda time when Sakyamanaung was built by the King Thirithudhammaraza. About half a mile to the east of palace-

site, 200 yards to the south-east of the The Pisei Pagoda lower Neikbuzar Pagoda, is the Paraoke

Pagoda. It stands on a small hillock about Half a mile to the north-east of

50 feet high. Minkaungshwetu is the four sided Pisei

The Paraoke Pagoda was erected by Pagoda. It is situated on a small hillock the King Minphalaung in 1571 A.D. The of about 150 feet high. The pagoda has

King was troubled by a disturbance in four porches in the west, east, north and the whole of the country after he had the south sides. Each porch contains an built the Dukkhanthein Pagoda. Thus, on image of Buddha made of sandstone,

the advice of his seers and astrologers MraukTJ style. The entrance of each side

he donated this pagoda in order to prevent leads to an inner vaulted passage. In the

the disintegration of the union. He named centre stands a stone pillar which supports

this pagoda, "Paraoke", (Oke means to the roof and an image of Buddha above

hold or control the whole country,). it. The style of the image belongs to the The uppermost portion of the pagoda early Layrnro period. Traditionally the has fallen down now. There remains only shrine is said to have been built in 1123 a the lowest tire. The main pagoda is circular A.D by the King Kawliya (gooooSoo),

at the base, and is constructed of stone. king of Parein Dynasty. The pagoda Around the outer side, there are twenty- contains a relic of Buddha. The pagoda nine niches each holding a sitting image was repaired by the kings of Mrauk-U constructed of Buddha. The entrance, an arched passage, Dynasty. The pagoda was been greatly opens towards the east and connects the entirely of stones and has Buddhists. chamber which contains a seated stone revered by

70 71 72 The Koethaung Pagoda is very similar to Shitthaung Pagoda, which his father had donated. They are of the To the north of the Pisei Hill at a same type from the historical and archaeo- distance of 400 yards is the Koethaung logical view points. This tradition of Pagoda. The pagoda stands on a plain donation of religious buildings by royal and is surrounded by paddy-fields. The families came down from the royal upper tiers of the pagoda had disappeared. ancestores. The remaining lowest tier is about 30 The pagoda was constructed of massive feet high including earth foundation. stone walls and terraces. The small one The Koethaung Pagoda was built in hundred and eight pagodas, all made of 1553 A.D by the King Mintaikkha who sandstone, were built on the terraces. The was the son of the King Minbin, the donor entrance to the pagoda on the east side of the great Shitthaung Pagoda. The word leads to a long vaulted passage which Koethaung means ninety-thousand and spirals round the tiers until it reaches the thus the temple is supposed to contain central chamber. The construction of the ninety-thousand Buddhas that is the pagoda Koethaung Pagoda resembles a rock of 90.000 Buddhas. cave tunnel" . The main tower above the The pagoda is the biggest in size among pagoda is octagonal in shape. But the the pagodas in Mrauk-U. It measures 230 old sculptures are thought to have been feet from east to west and 250 feet from buried under the ruins in almost impene- north to south. The Koethaung Pagoda trable thicket. It is believed that there

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Stone sculptures of Buddha, Koethaung Pagoda

F10 73 .

may be treasures of sculptures, artworks yards from east to west. Traditionally, and even valuable jewelleries buried the kings of Mrauk-U Dynasty celebrated

underneath the ruins. The platform is their head-washing mingala in this res- scattered here and there with vestiges of ervoir. Before the ceremony, the King

pagodas, images and many other such usually stayed in a small temporary palace

paraphernalia. which was erected in the western bank

There was a current prophecy of the Udawsaykan tank. The tank, the (33o§o5od£3ooc) for the donor of this pagoda natives say, supplies fresh water and always which foretold that he would die six months maintains the same level of water through- after his coronation. Thus, on the advice out the year. of his advisers and so as to fulfill a part An old Keddah (soco%;) is situated

of yattara (uofcSo) the King moved his on the west side of the Udawsaykan. It palace to a new site and built a temporary was an elephant training camp and also palace (ooooo^:) near the eastern side was the camping-ground for the main of the pagoda-hill. Rakhine elephant-army (soccou). The legend says that the pagoda was demolished and hit by a thunderbolt The Myinmoenan because the King Mintaikkha, built the Close to the eastern side of the Koethaung Pagoda (ninety thousand tank about two hundred yards away is the Mrauk images) which exceeded in number to Myinmoenan (g§do5(Sc^^|:) northern high the images of his father (King Minbin's)

palace. The ground is level and it Shitthaung Pagoda (eighty thousand on were constructed embankments, tanks, images). It was unlikely. Really, the Pagoda, moats and buildings. Previously, an Koethaung was built in six months time ordination -hall stood on the eastern side by the advice of his astrologers. In building of the building, all had now been destroyed. this pagoda, the workmen used both bricks Numerous broken bricks and other vestiges and stones. Other pagodas were mostly remains indicating that the side had once built of pure sandstone which had been been an important religious ground. carried from the Rakhine-coasts. The six The ground seems to have been a month's time was not long enough to collect temple at one time, probably an assembly the required number of blocks of stone. hall for the priests. There ,were forty heads As a consequence, Koethaung was inferior of the priests in Mrauk-U. They had the in quality in materials as well as in temporal powers over the monks and the workmanship compared to Shitthaung citizens. They held a meeting yearly and

Pagoda gave decisions on all the religious affairs. Besides, they taught and advised the king The Udawsaykan how to rule his country.

Four hundred yards to the north-east Kyaunglaidon Fortress of the Koethaung Pagoda is Udawsaykan

(royal head-washing tank). It is a large About two miles to the east, and north- tank, 200 yards from north to south, 100 east of palace -site, a half mile to the

74 as an extraordinarily high eastoftheMraukMyinmoenan, is a fortress mentioned mountain which is surrounded by four named Kyaunglaidon. It was built of stone great islands inhibited by human beings. on the eastern slope of the tiger-ridge In the Rakhine tradition, Myinmoenan (oqpseooocoo^s). associated with the royal ancestral- The tiger-ridge was used as one of is worship. In the Taung Myinmoenan, there the outer city walling and is situated on which is a small square shaped island, the east of the Mrauk-U City. The ridge stands in the centre of these four islands. runs from north to south. The tiger-ridge A palace was built on the central island. parallel to the Lemro River and its runs House" The palace is called the "Golden valley. Thus, the Kyaunglaidon is a very because the whole of the hall was once important fortress for the city. Close by gilded. The king and his chief queen stayed to the south of the fort are a stream, in this palace in times of ceremony. Thinganadi, a paddy storage house and All of the governors from provinces a water-gate all of which bearing the same stayed on the islands ailoted to them. They name, Kyaunglaidon. Forts were built on came here with the purpose of paying these terrains and were provided with homage to the king. They came to the artillery. Now, six artillery firing holes, "Golden House" in a small gilt golden about 30 feet in length, remain in the boat. They drunk sacred water in the fortress. These artillery could easily defend presence of the king to show their loyalty any enemy attacks from the eastern side and bowed and touched the feet of the Mrauk-U Capital. of the king one by one.

This is a very interesting and lovely The Taung Myinmoenan tradition. It was closely connected to the Rakhine monarchy and had served as an To the south of the Mrauk Myinmoenan important function. abouf a half mile away, and one and In fact, the kings in the Mrauk-U half mile to the east of the palace-site Dynasty especially those kings reigning is the Taung Myinmoenan (eooo£gc:f%|;), 16ih in the period between 15th and southern high palace. It measures 600 feet century, were powerful emperors whose from north to south and 550 feet from authorities extended to the whole western east to west. The ground plan is very strip from Chittagone to Martaban. There similar to the Mrauk Myinmoenan. It can were several provinces which fell under be seen on the aerial photo map and still the Rakhine rules and these included the is in a fairly good state of preservation. lands beyond the seas. As a demos tration are five islands, made of earthworks There part to his people of his power it was a and bricks, within the wall. Each island of the ceremony that the governors of is surrounded by a small moat about 100 all the important provinces should come feetwide.ThistraditionoftheMyinmoenan to pay him respect, as if they were tributary and is related to the Buddhist Jatakas kings, for the King of Mrark-U styled religion. In the Buddhist Jatakas, the himself as the Emperor (soofpe). Myinmoetaung is very wellknown and is

75 The Hlaingsaya Training Camp which had derived from the royal fore- fathers. South to the Taung Myinmoenan there is not any pagoda at all. There are only The Theingyishwegu plains, walls and moats and several pools and tanks. Beyond the tripled walled, The Theingyishwegu is a well-known fortress there is a very wellknown tank, cave of the great nine-cave-temple in named Hlaingsaya (cgc:o«p). The term Mrauk-U. It is situated in a small hillock, Hlaingsaya implies some relationship with 30 feet high, about one mile away to the military affair. At the base of the the south-east of the palace. At that site eastern hill range and around the tank the King Minbin erected the there was once a camping-ground of Theingyishwegu sima (ordination hall) in training camp of the Rakhine auxiliary 1532 A.D. army. The whole hillock was made a sima\ and huge stone pillars were erected around

The it to Santikan Mosque mark the boundary of the sima. It

is considered the most attractive sima in A few hundred yards to the west of Mrauk-U. At present, the huge- sima pillars the Hlaingsaya tank, two and a half miles and other vestiges remain standing, east-south-east of the palace -site, in the indicating that the site had once been outer city, is a non-Buddhistic building. a land of religious sanctuary. The upper It is a Mohammedan mosque, called portion of the cave is damaged; only a Santikan, built by the muslim followers 12 feet high stone image of Buddha remains. of the King Minsawmon who had returned

from the country of Sultan in 1429 A.D. The Nyimadaw Pagoda The mosque court measures 65 feet from north to south and 82 feet from east to A few yards south of the west; the shrine is a rectangular structure Theingyishwegu up a small hill stands measuring 33 feet by 47 feet. the Nyimadaw Pagoda. It was built by a princess Sawthuba (cuoo^m), a daughter The Mintayapyin of the King Sinpyushin (aocg|^c) (1482- 1492 A.D). The sculptures around the Close by to the west of the Santikan palin (throne) are decorated .with very mosque is the Mintayapyin (the field of attractive designs. Among them a familiar the king). It is a paddy-field which was design is a man playing a harp. The donor, used by the kings for the ceremony of the Princess Sawthuba was the younger ploughing mingala (ajuScgfaricOT). This sister of Sawnanminpyu. The pagoda, practice came down from the reign of donated by Sawthuba, was therefore, Minhti, (1283-1389 A.D) who was a king Sawthubapara or the Nyimadaw Pagoda. of the Launggret Dynasty. This tradition Just across the road to the west of the was an important function for the kings Sawthuba Pagoda stand the Ponnataung of Mrauk-U Dynasty. It was a royal custom fortress and the Sinpyudaw water-gate.

76 SOUTHERN SIDE

The Shwetaung Pagoda the period 1 - 1 571 593 A.D . But the pagoda was repaired by the King Minkhamaung The Shwetaung Pagoda (Golden Hill (1612-1622 A.D ), the grandson of Pagoda) stands on top of a small hill, Minphalaung. The pagoda was decorated 250 feet high. The hill is the highest one with arch-pediments and porches finely in the Mruak-U area. It can be seen even carved in high relief. Over each corner from a distance of 20 miles if viewed of the first tier stands a fine porch with from out of the Kaladan River. The pagoda some fine sculptures. stands a half mile away to the south- A few yards to the south of east-east of the palace-site. The pagoda Minkhamaung temple is a city wall made is a circular one from base to the top of earth. It measures 20 feet high, 1250 and is of common design. The building feet long from east to west. The eastern of the Shwetaung Pagoda was ascribed part of the wall has a stone gate constructed to King Minbin. It was built between the with hewn stone blocks. It is 9 feet broad, years 13 feet high 1531 A.D and 1553 A.D. It was and 28 feet long. The stone- gate repaired by later donors including kings was built by the Kyatkhat Myosa, and the governor of the present inhabitants. During the first Kyatkhat province. So the Anglo-Myanmar War, the Myanmariiad gate was also called the Kyatkhat- takar. Beyond built some earthern-fortifications, mounted the wall is a large man- made lake, 75 acres wide, named guns on them and inflicted some losses Anomakan. The lake stretches from north upon the British forces. A few portions to south about a mile and a half. It was used of these earthworks can be seen there as a moat at one time. still standing. Now, it supplies fresh water to the inhabitants of Mrauk- About four hundred yards to the south- U. west of the Shwetaung Pagoda is the A few hundred yards towards the Kalamyo Pagoda. It was built on a small eastern range and to the south-east of ridge of Shwetaung by order of King the stone-gate, are the Myataung fortress, Minbin. Close to the west of the Kalamyo and the Laythataung fortress. They are Pagoda is the Sakkathila (axgaW) image, the biggest and the strongest among the which is 7 feet high. fortresses in Mrauk-U. It was built in 1460 A.D by the King Close by to the west of Anomakan Basawpyu. A few steps to the south of is the another man-made lake, Letsekan, the Sakkathila is the M inkhamaung temple. which is over one hundred acres wide. The donor of this pagoda was actually It has two stone gates, Shwepaukpin on the King Minphalaung who reigned in the east, and Letsekan on the west.

77 r

The Wathaie Image hillock named Panhteintaung(u^:o3«Goooc), half a mile to the south of the palace,

At the same distance about five hundred a few yards to the north-west of the yards to the south of the palace site, to Sakkathila Pagoda. It was donated by the the north of the Letsekan Lake is the King Candathudhammaraza in 1658 A.D. great image, Wathaie Para. It was made He was the 22nd king of the Mrauk- of a large single stone and is the largest U Dynasty and reigned for twenty-two image in Mrauk-U. It measures 13 feet years from 1652 to 1674 A.D. He was feet in height, excluding the throne and 8 one of the longest reigning kings in the from knee to knee. The whole of the Mrauk-U Dynasty. Another small pagoda body was gilded by the donations of the was built close to the north of this pagoda villagers. This image was erected by the on the same hill when he was crowned small King Tazarta in 1515 A.D. in 1652 A.D. But it was a very In 1531 A.D Minbin became the King pagoda. The King heard a current prophecy of Mrauk-U. Before the King set out on that the donation of the great King was a military operation to Bengal, because not worth proclaiming "well done!" of the prophecy, he had taken good care (o^fc&sfi (scnocifyno oj3<$ sgsTgcoooo). of this image. The shrine which shelters Therefore, on advice of his noblemen, the image was constructed entirely of stone the King built another great pagoda with and was counted by a new ML Today, stones and named it Jinamanaung. Jina

the shrine is in ruin. The image is fairly stands for Buddha, man for devil, the well preserved by the donors. King of Mara and aung for to overcome. Hence the name means the Buddha who The Pankonthein overcame the devil. The pagoda is a solid stone structure, The Pankonthein stands at the foot octagonal from base to top, and measures hillock and of the eastern Sandantaung 320 feet around the base and 120 feet west of four hundred yards away to the in height. In the east is a porch, which Buddha the Wathaie Shrine. A huge seated leads to a chamber occupying the centre entrance. image, 11 feet high faces the of the pagoda. There is seated a bronze the front There is a two-line inscription on image of Buddha in the chamber. The of the seat of the image. This script is image made of bronze, was taken away The the oldest one found in Mrauk-U. by someone during the first Anglo-Myanmar for the dating in script is extremely important War. There is another seated image of the image and it belonged to the Laymyo the chamber. The ceiling is vaulted. The period which extended to the period from facade of the porch exhibits some good time 10th to 14th century A.D. At one carving in stone. Each of the eight corners the the image was situated on the top of of the pagoda is guarded by a double- Sandantaung hillock and carried over to bodied, single-headed lion. The lion is the present site from the old city of called by the natives manotethiha or man- originally Launggret by Minhlaraza. It was lion. In the upper tier, each of the corners This called "Sutawpan Image" (s^Gooool^cp:)- is guarded by a guinea pig (o^erooc). tradition was intimately related to some The Jinamanaung Pagoda religious functions and was observed in several pagodas. This pagoda stands on a low steep

78 - WESTERN SIDE

The Shwekyathein long, 14 feet high, with an arched passage (14' long, 4' 2" wide, and 10' high) which To the west of the pa lace -site are also leads numerous to an image room, 13' by 10' 8". pagodas, most of them in ruin; On the west side of the chamber is a the terrain is intersected by many small large stone image of the Buddha, creeks. An old monastery named La 8 feet kkaukzi and 8 inches, sitting cross-legged on a Kyaung is situated 400 yards away to roughly-hewn the stone altar. The facade of west of the palace- site. There are the porch is cut into ornamental designs; some ancient images and historical a pillar, so rare in Rakhine, was found documents in this monastery. here. On each side of To the the entrance there west of this monastery is a is a pillaster which stands stone gate named Mauktawtaga out in bas- relief an inch high; the nature of the (c^nQGODoocish), still in good condition. ornamental design above the ground It measures 15 feet high, 9 feet broad structure is unfortunately no longer dis- and 15 feet long. Nearby, to the west cernible. of the gate was an old palace-site. It was situated on a platform, 4 feet high. The The Lokamanaung Pagoda palace was built by the King Minsawmon (1430-32 A.D) in honour of a queen, About two hundred yards to the north- named Mauktaw. So this gate west was also of the Shwekyathein, one mile to called Mauktawtaga. the west of the palace-site is the About 40 years later, a daughter was Lokamanaung Pagoda. This pagoda was born to the King Basawphyu (1459-1482 also built by Candathudhammaraza (1652- A.D) on this palace - site and she 1674 was A.D) in 1658 A.D. It stands on named Princess Sawshwekya. The princess a flat ground. The shrine was constructed donated in 1471 A.D a pagoda containing with stone blocks, well hewn and ce- images and a sima. The sima deserves mented. It is square at the base, each mention for its stone carvings side on the measuring 74 feet; the first four tiers facade of the pagoda. It is a small square are also square; in the centre of each structure of stone, measuring 18 feet from side of the tiers stands a porch containing east to west and 15 feet from an north to image of the Buddha. The sides of south. As the roof had fallen down, the only porch are made of stone slabs; the 16 feet of the wall remains today. To architectural design is similar to that of the east there protrudes a porch, the 15 feet Laungbanpyauk Pagoda. There are

79 same traces of ornamental designs on the face was born at the same time in the Panthanda of the porches. Each corner of the lowest year. The princess was named she was declared the tier is guarded by a guinea pig. (coral flower) and On each corner of the first four tiers donor of this Parabaw Pagoda. stands a small circular pagoda, solid and The pagoda was later repaired by the of without niches. From the garbha upward first Myanmar myowon , the mayor, It constructed the central spire is circular; the apex is Mrauk-U in 1786 A.D. was walls crowned with an iron hti (umbrella) once with bricks; the base is square; the height of 20 feet. gilded and still in good order. The east stand perpendicular to a facade of the pagoda has a portal 20' There are four tiers one above the other. then high, protruding 2' from the main wall, A circular dome-shaped garba and a vaulted passage 4' 8" wide, 16' high, a succession of twelve concentric bell- and 29' long leads to a chamber in the shaped rings gradually taper off until they hti (umbrella) centre of the pagoda. It contains a stone reach to a point. A rusty iron image of the Buddha 12 feet high, sitting rests on top of the pagoda which is 120 cross-legged on a stone alter. The ceiling feet high. Each corner of the lowest tier

is a hemispherical dome and the apex is guarded by a lion. east and south sides, is 16 feet above ground. At the north, there is In front of the entrance, a large prayer there are protruding portals and court has lately been donated by the present also a passage with a pointed arch which inhabitants of the Warzay quarter leads to a central room. There is a throne built in the west wall of the chamber (ol:efl^:$pogno). and on it is seated a large stone image The pagoda has a wall measuring 300 of the Buddha, 12 feet and 3 inches high. feet around the base and 100 feet high. This image of the Buddha is very similar The pagoda court is spacious and in type to the Mahamuni. According to shaded by trees. The pilgrims who came the native records the image was said to visit the distant Vesali and Mahamuni to be salvaged from water, and hence Shrine used to stop and rest here. The the name "Parabaw", an image which was old roads to Vesali and Mahamuni begins discovered out of water. here. These roads are still known as the A number of small stone and wooden gold road and the silver road. images are found around the central figure. pagoda court there stand a few The Parabaw Pagoda In the small pagodas of modern design which of Across the Parabaw creek, there is had lately been built by the people a large and very interesting pagoda named the nearby villages. east entrance there Parabaw. It stands on the bank of a small In front of the 9 feet wide tidal creek. The pagoda is situated 400 is a cone, 15 feet high and of a single yards to the west of Lokamanaung, one around the base. It was cut is made up mile to the west of the palace. block of stone. The ground cone- The pagoda was built in 1603 ATJ of a series of belts which girdle the subdivided by the King Minrazagyi, the most powerful shaped stone. Each band is containing king of Mrauk-U Dynasty, for the occasion into a number of smaller fields Buddha in various of the birth of his new daughter, who bas-relief images of the

SO F11 A 81 '

82 standing and sitting postures. The number Daingripet, had flourished in the period 103, of these images, is considered to from the regime of King Minbin (1531- represent the Rakhine's traditional char- 53 A.D) to King Thirithudhammaraza acteristics which amount to one hundred (1622-1638 A.D). The King Thirithud- and three. hammaraza had allowed Father Manrique

to build a Christian church in Mrauk- The Daingripet U. The church stands on a land a few yards to the east side of the Daingri tank. The Daingripet, a former European The tank is rectangular and was built by settlement is situated on the other bank the King Basawphyu (1459-1482 A.D). of the Aungdat creek. It is situated half On the west side of the tank sits the a mile west of the palace-site and outside remains of a huge image made of grey the city walls. This European quarter, sandstone and is 10 feet high.

m

A smiling ' beauty at Point beach, the mouth of the Kaladan River

F11 B S3 r

L^^siWo^the^South-West of the City

To the south-west of the palace-site The Mingalashwegu is the Myinwantaung about one hundred feet high. It runs from north to south A few yards to the south of the and served as the natural fortification for Laytankhar Pagoda is the Mingalashwegu about two miles up to the bank of Pagoda. It is situated on a small hillock. Launggret creek. It is a very steep and The pagoda is a bell-shaped soild stone narrow ridge. structure, In many places especially octagonal from the base to the the western side garbha of the ridge, triple ramparts and is very similar in style to (W§0 were built along the slope. This the Mahabodhishwegu. The pagoda was side of the city built in is a plain and is full 818 A.D by the King Khittathin. of deep tidal creeks. The central No invading armies tower contained a relic of could have the crossed them easily. A strong Buddha and a relic of the Thitsa fortress called the Aungmingala was built Bandawa Rahandar (coooioqoD&o) on top of a hillock. The fort was made there is an entrance on the east side of huge sandstones and a vaulted and was provided with passage which leads to the artillery. inner chamber. The chamber contains an There are also image of some several pagodas seated Buddha placed on a on top of the pedestal. hillock along the ridge. The image is 5 feet high and Most of is the pagodas had been ruined by made of stone. The main pagoda the weather. measures Some of the pagodas are 80 feet in circumference and now being repaired by the townspeople. 60 feet in height.

The Laytankhar Pagoda The Koenawin Pagoda

Close to the south of To the Aungmingala east of Mingalashwegu is fortress is the Laytankhar Pagoda. It has anothersmall hillock. The Koenawin Pagoda a square-shaped chamber stands connected with on this hill. It is a solid stone a long vaulted passage. There are four structure and has an octagonal shape. Each seated images of the side Buddha, each four of the eight directions has a porch feet high, facing the four directions, sitting containing an image of the Buddha. They back to back, at the centre of the chamber. are of different madras (?§o). The pagoda There is an air hole was in each direction built by the King Khittathin in 818 except at the entrance on the east side. A.D. -

The Mahavizayayanthi Pagoda The Naretsa Pagoda (or) Rakhinetansaung Pagoda Farther south along the ridge about

half a mile away is the Thongyaiktasu On the right side of the entrance to Shrine (o^nqjoooos^) (thirty-one images). Myothit village stands the Naretsa Pagoda. The shrine conta ins thirty-one stone images. It is half a mile away to the south-west It is situated on the eastern slope of a of the Royal Palace. Today, the original small ridge. This site is the only place structure of the pagoda has fallen into with a good view over the green valley ruins and can hardly be traced. The pagoda of Letsekan. The shrine was built in 1482 was built in 1471 A.D by Naretsa, a A.D. nobleman who governed the Naret prov- Just across the road about five-minute ince. Today an image of the Buddha, 7 walk to the south-east of the Thongyaiktasu feet 6 inches high and made of brown Shrine is a pagoda named Mahavizaya- stone stands in the shrine. yanthi. The pagoda was erected in 1430 On one fine evening, a princess named A.D by the King Minsawmon, the first Sawnanminphyu (sooaIibc e or king of the Mrauk-U Dynasty and the G?I|) Thurakhine (a^c) holding a bunch of one who founded the city. His younger flowers passed to brother, Minkhaw repaired and worshipped by and came pay homage to this image. poet, Shin this pagoda. Close by to the south of The Myanmar

this pagoda is a monastery, which was Tayzawthara (^cgoog

donated by the King Minsawmon to a himself face to face with her. The poet monk named Mahavizayayanthi who was was so stricken with her beauty that he ' the head of the priests at that time. The began to write a rata (s\co) known as

pagoda was also called by that name. Rakhinetazaung in praises of the exquisite The pagoda is being repaired by the beauty of the Rakhine princess. inhabitants of the town at the present time.

It measures 80 feet around the base and

60 feet high. It is constructed with stone blocks, well-hewn and cemented. It is wm octagonal at the base. In the centre of

each side of the tires stands a porch containing an image of the Buddha. These porches around the pagoda are decorated with fine archpediments. To the west of

this pagoda is an old sima (Thein). Its pillars remain standing about 4 feet high from the ground level. The upper portions of this sima are now in ruins.

Traditional records tell us that the two well-known Myanmar poets, Shin Maharahtathara (^c«uoo«j) and Shin Tayzawthara, (^cgoos<^coo€|) had stayed in this monastery for two years in 1486 to 1488A.D.

85 f

The Historical Sites in Launggret

Launggret and Parein once had been To the south of the hill is the Nandawgon the capitals of the powerful Rakhine (palace-site), a square enclosure once kingdoms but now most of the area had containing the royal residence and the

been eroded by the river. The sites of city of Launggret. It had been a small these capitals are at a distance some 30 town; the walls are 20 feet high, constructed of earth minutes drive from Mrauk-U. Farther south mixed with stone, half a mile long from north to south and nearly a on the left side along the road is Launggret. thousand feet from east to west. Here The last remaining part of the capital which and there are heaps of bricks and stones, had escaped from erosion is the probably indicating the site of ruined Taungmawtaung Hill about 200 feet high. pagodas; the whole place is overgrown On top of this hill is a huge stone slab with dense, shrubby jungle. To the south with some inscriptions on it. It inscribed of the enclosure are paddy-fields. There the donations of the King Kawliya (1118- was an old site of the large image of 1123 A.D). It is the largest Myanmar the Buddha, S' high and 6' from knee inscription. It measures 30 feet wide and to knee. This image was donated by the 25 feet high. Three-inches long script of King Nankyagyi (1273-1277 A.D).The it had fallen off. image was also called Nankyapara. The

The best time to visit the Taungmaw King Narapatigyi repaired it again in 1640 Hill is the early morning, before breakfast, A.D. Now the image was placed near the thus avoiding the heat of the day. The Mrauk-U-Minbya road to save it from the river erosion. view from the top is spectacular. The Lemro River sparkles like diamonds under The Kadothein Shrine the early sun. If the sky is clear, one

can see distent lands in all directions. The gem of the art of stone sculpture To the east one can see the vast rice- in Rakhine can be seen in the Kadothein, growing plains extending to the great in the Launggret circle, ten miles due Rakhine mountain range. The two images south of Launggret. Until about the year Laymyo type Parapaung and Taksa, stand 1890 this shrine remained buried in the near the Nangya Village to the south of jungle. The shrine was discovered and Taungmaw Hill. Taksa image is 8 feet repaired by the villagers of Kamaungdat. high and bears a one-line inscription which Kadothein was builtby the Candavizaya says that the image was donated by the (1710-1731 A.D) in the year Sakkaraj King Minhti in 1330 A.D. 1085; two well excavated stone inscriptions

86 87 r

88 Facade of the Kadolhein

in the pagoda court record the meritorious with stone. It is square with corners, and deed and the grant of land which he a vaulted passage opens towards the east

settled upon the adjoing monasteries for and leads to a chamber. The roof is a the support of the monks residing in them. hemispherical cupola, the stone being laid The inscriptions describe the bounda- in concentric courses as in the Shitthaung ries of the paddy-lands so granted, and Pagoda. detailofthe supernatural punishment called The entire outer surface of the shrine

down upon those who might destroy is covered with ornamental designs. It the shrine, monasteries, and other property. was constructed on the same plan as the The Kadothein is constructed entirely Shinkite Pitakataik in Mrauk-U.

89 F12 The Pataw Pagoda misinterpreted.

The plate shows the relative position On the west bank of the Launggret of the stones and the creek, rock-cut figures, where the Mraungbway joins the the only ones of the kind as yet found latter, is the Pataw Village; two miles inland in Rakhine. is a low hill range about 5 miles long This story is interpreted by the learned running from north to south. In ancient author of The Antiquities of Arakan as times it was known as the Gandhapabbata. follows; On the highest peak in the centre of the First stone: on the side facing the hill range stands a small pagoda named north are rough outlines of a ship sailing Ukundaw. A shrine said to contain the due west towards the mountain. skull of a snake, in which form the would- Second stone: be strangers step on shore; Buddha passed one of his former the natives oppose them, existences they come, at this place. The pagoda is however, to an agreement, which is built of stone, square at the base and expressed by the two parties stretching circular from the garbha upward. A small out their arms towards one another, porch protrudes to the east. pressing thumb against thumb, the little Along the eastern base of the hill are finger against finger, the knuckles of the numerous tanks, embankments, traces of three other fingers meeting each other. building and other vestiges, indicating the Third stone: the stranger site becomes of a once important city known in violent and oppressive; with his knee on Rakhine as Sigunmyo. It was built by the chest of the prostrate native he has King Gazapati, the ninth monarch of the taken hold of the latter by his throat with Mrauk-U Dynasty, who ruled in the era one hand and swings a sword or Da between the years 1513-1515 A.D. At (go:) the foot in the other. of that portion of the hill range called Fourth stone: the stranger has cut Udukinzain, is a rock If long and the 4' 2" high; off head of his victim and is dancing the side facing the east is in exultation. covered with Rakhine letters; the inscrip- Fifth stone: this stone tion is dated Sakkaraj 886 (1524 A.D). has a slope to the west and another to the east; it The Art on the Rock is intended to represent the hill range; the images are defaced in some places. Two miles farther south of the base The stranger is in exclusive possession of the hill is lined with huge boulders of the eastern side of the hill and makes of ferroginous sandstone. Ages ago, a river, himselfat home; the native is driven across or the an ocean probably, had washed the hill and alights on tigers and elephants, foot of the hill. The boulders are, however, with whom he has to share his new home; of great interest he is to the antiquarians; rugged represented as having fallen full figures were engraved on the surfaces of upon the back of what appears to be eight of them; the position of the rocks an elephant, with his head towards the had evidently been selected with the object tail of the animal. of giving proper sequences to the story Sixth stone: here the figures are very which the figures cut upon them repre- indistinct; one represents the ship of the sented intruder; in a language which cannot be above it are two waving lines, 90 91 ;

which probably indicates that the vessel over the back of the head and the shoulder of the enemy has been sunk to the bottom in a single plait, tied at the end with of the river or the sea; the natives recover a string; flying arrows and stones bless courage. his departure. The outlines of this figure Seventh stone: the naked emaciated are cut half-an-inch deep into the surface figure of the ejected native is shown of the orck. standing by a tree in an actitude ofmaking Absolutely nothing is known as to the an oath (most of the primitive tribes in date and authorship of these rock - Myanmar swear to this day by a particular carvings; not even a legend is heard tree); the trunk has two eyes and the concerning them. It may here be pointed three additional lines above it may indicate out that at the very dawn of Rakhine the number of the kindred tribes who enter history certain appellations were given into a solemn pact to attack and eject to mountains according to images or the intruder, whose main strength lay in figures found engraved on rocks or stones his ship, of which, however, he is now about them. deprived. The eighth rock depicts the stranger The Mahahti Pagoda in the act ofdeparting in undignified hurry The Mahahti Pagoda stands on a low his right hand holds a stout walking - hill of about 50 feet high, at the junction stick, the left hand a tiny bundle of free of the Launggret creek, 7 miles south luggage, " which will not impede his swift of Mrauk-U, 3 miles west of Launggret. journey to the south; he is scantily dressed, The pagoda was built by the King Kawliya a strip of cloth round the loins being 118-11 A.D). The pagoda is mentioned his only vestment; the hair hangs down (1 24

Stone sculptures, Shitthaung Pagoda

92 bricks. Now, some new in a popular and well-known cradle-song, stone-slabs and Rakhine Minthami Ayegyin (s^cucscoS: buildings and pagodas were built on the ®^p) written in the 15th century. This platform by public donation, stones and hillock is known in the Rakhine history An old road paved with leads from the river bank to the as the Sandapabbata (®|o»co) . According bricks are large to a native saying, the image had once shrine. At the base of the hill been sheltered under a huge stone "M" tanks walled in with stones or bricks. (umbrella). So the pagoda was also called A staircase of 52 steps, 8 feet broad with Mahahti (Maha = huge, hti = umbrella). lateral walls 7 feet high, connects the The other source pointed out that the statue road with the platform of the pagoda. had probably meant to represent Ananda, The old Toads were used for the king the Mahathera, who, according to the and his royal family. These roads serve Salagiri tradition, visited Rakhine with an archeological interest at the present the Buddha. The Rakhine people shortened time. the term them to and pronounced it hti, and the image probably was originally The Paungdawdat

called Mahahti which is the short form At the northernmost part, a mile to of Mahathera (qwogco£\). the morth of the Mahahti Shrine, is the The pagoda is a square structure with Paungdawdat, a pagoda of ancient origin. a portal protruding towards the east, and The hill is known in old Raknine history a central chamber; each side of the square as Culapabbata (oo^cs

is gilded all over. The Kyauknyo Image The platform spreads over the whole of the levelled surface of the hill; it appears The Kyauknyo image (dusky stone) that at one time it had been paved with is situated on the top of the southernmost

93 hill, to the south of Mahahti Village. The a pigeon, a woman breast-feeding an infant, shrine which contained the image was a manussiha, having a human head on totally destroyed during the first Anglo- a lion's body, a horse, an ogre, a jungle Myanmar War in 1824 A.D and the head goat, a male and a female, both nude, of the image had been knocked-off. Since an elephant, a woman kneeling with the then the image stood there unprotected hands folded over the breast, holding on the hill. Lately a bamboo shed was between them is her hair twisted into a erected on it and the head being reset plait, and a keinnara, (a fabulous creature on the body while the stones forming having the body of a bird with a human the throne were replaced, the image gilded, face). and the jungle cleared around the platform. The pedestal appears to have been

The statue is seated cross-legged; the demolished, the stones subsequently right hand rests over the right knee, and collected and losely set together in that the left lies open on the lap, the palm order which appeared proper to the repairer, turned upward; contrary to the common but can hardly be the same as that of custom, the robe covers both shoulders the original palin (throne). The figures and close tightly round the neck; the lobes are in bold relief 4 to 5 feet high. There of the ears touch the shoulders; the are still traces of a temple-court and of expression of the face is unique, the eyelids enclosing walls, around which are now and eye-brows are raised; the eyes make over grown with jungle. a fixed stare; the nose is broad at the The Mahahti Village was once the site end, the nostrils largely developed, the of a considerably large town. During the bridge rather flat; the mouth has a reign of Minphalaung, a king of Mrauk- complacent, self-contained expression; the U Dynasty, roads were constructed along chin is broad and doubled, the cheeks the river and were paved with bricks and well rounded, the neck short and thick- stone slabs; some remaining pieces can set; the hair curly and gathered in a knot still be found. Numerous tanks along the

on top of the head; the head is gilded base of the hill are also ascribed to the

all over. The image measures 5 feet 4 King; he reigned during the period from

inches from knee to knee and is 6 feet 1571 to 1593 A.D.

6 inches high. The following well-known legend is

The stone throne is 5 feet 4 inches related to the Kyauknyo image and Mahahti high; the circumference around the top image; King Kawliya, the most powerful

is 27 feet, and measures 38 feet 5 inches king, the 6th of the Parein Dynasty, who at the base. It consists of nine tiers of ruled from 1118 to 1128 A.D, at one stone blocks, the outer surface of which time dreamed that in the bed of the

is cut into flower designs and of figures Launggret River was a massive stone, of human beings and animals. These from which he was to get an image of designs are on the third and fourth rows the Buddha carved. He then organized

from the base. There are, in all, 44 figures a search with divers, and a stone of dusky arranged so that a block with a floral hue was found as he had dreamed. This design and a block with a figure appears was raised with red silk cords and an

alternately. The figures include an ogre, image was carved out of it. Thus, this a man in a dancing mode, a tittiro or image (or) the stone had been called partridge, a male human figure, a parrot, Ngakaukya (clerooa§

a doe, a crow, a lion with two heads, pronounce it.

94 The Historical Sites in Vesali

The Old Vesali The north-south diameter of the outer walls

at the widest part is nearly 10,000 feet, Mrauk-U is 560 years old, Although while the east-to-west diameter is only it is the "youngest" of all cities in about 6,500 feet at its widest. The area Raknine. The most interesting of the old of the city is about 2.7 square miles. cities is Vesali which lies 6 miles to the north of Mrauk-U. According to the Rakhine The Palace-site history, Vesali was founded by the King

Mahataing Candra in 327 A.D. The The palace -site is a rectangular area, archaeological department reports that 1,500 feet long and 1,000 feet wide, aligned

Vesali was a city belonging to the main slightly to north-west. It is surrounded period from 4th to 8th century A.D which by a small moat. The main gate of the was confirmed by the findings of exca- palace was on the east, marked by the vation at Vesali. colossal Nan-Oo image which is there According to local records, the city's today. The palace-site itself remains full name is Vesali Kyaukhlayga (The city unexcavated as the Vesali Village presently with stone stairs). These stone stairs led occupies the site. to the pier where. sailing ships must have docked in those days. Remains of these The Vesali Paragyi stone stairs can still be seen at ebb-fide, on the north-west of the city. An old A few hundred yards to the north palm-leaf script mentions that Vesali of the palace -site is the great Vesali image

(pronounced Waithali) is named in the of the Buddha. It stands on a small mound, hope of rich trading. Thus the city, Vesali, 50 feet high. The image is 17 feet high became a noted trading port to which and is made of solid single stone. According as many as a thousand ships came anually. to local chronicles, this image was donated

The city is flanked by the Ranchaung by Chief Queen, Thupabadevi, in 327 A.D. creek, a tributary of Kaladan to the west, But some of the original, ancient shape and a ridge between the Kaladan and Lemro and sculpture had disappeared from the

Valleys in the east. It is somewhat oval old because of the recent repairments by in shape with straight-line-like walls on public donations. the north and east and curved walls on An inscription, in four lines, on a the south and west. A tributary of the stone slab measuring 27 x 10.5 cm, was Ranchaung now traverses the city. Parts found at this site, in the vicinity of the of the wide moat are still filled with water. Vesali image. The script is unusual, in

95 r

that while many older forms are retained, images of the Buddha. The sides of the the 6th century Eastern Indian form of hillock are also covered with the fragments ha was introduced for the first time. Now, of images, stone inscriptions, and debris most parts of the Vesali Paragyi hillock of an old shrine. The main structure at

is covered with damaged sculptures save the top of the hillock is now completely

the great image of the Buddha, and the ruined. Towards the base is a hole, leading

hillock is scattered with broken bricks to a tunnel partially blocked with debris. which are much brgger than any other Natives believe that there are a number brick of the ancient sites of Rakhine. of enormous rooms inside, containing bronze lamps and huge sculptures. Because The Letkettaung of these, Shwedaunggyi attracted attention of the treasure-hunters. Close to the east of the palace-site, The hillock's reputation has been

which is now Vesali Village, a small hillock, enhanced by a local legend. It is said is Letkettaung on which is a monastery, that in the middle of the 10th century, popularly named after the huge stone slab after King Culacandra died in the sea, which has the shape of a Letkhat (weaver's his Queen, Candadevi married a Mro shuttle), tribesman. The Pyu of Sriksetra, incensed Traditionally, it is said that the at the tribesman's audacity, attempted to Shitthaung inscription pillar was erected attack Vesali but were enticed away by on this hillock by King Anadacandra in his brother and massacred. The spot where the 8th century A.D. Besides, a 6th century the property, gold, jewels, etc of the Pyu

votive inscription may have been found King and his army were buried is still in a cave at the base of the hillock. The known to this day as Shwedaung. slabs, almost completely buried, are said A number of interesting sculptures and to be the steps from which the ancient architectural fragments from the site has kings threw the powerful Areindama spear been collected, most of which are now (sae^oooj), and the ruined sculptures stored in the Letkhattaung monastery. The scattered around are likewise said to sculptures found on the Shwedaunggyi represent the ancient kings. These images hillock include an interesting figure of of near life-size, appear to have been torana a woman in standing position; the sculpture (gateway of a shrine) figures placed at considered to belong to the first half of the entrance of a large shrine. Natives the 7th century. Standing on a plain pedestal say that there is probably an underground and with an unornamented backs lab, the chamber under this Letkettaung hillock. figure stands erect, feet pointing forward. The architectural fragments in Shwedaung- The Shwedaunggyi gyi suggest a possible relationship with the early Calukyan and Pallava styles of A few hundred feet to the north of the middle of the 7th century A.D. the Vesali image is the Shwedaunggyi (the great golden hillock), which lies north- The Sanghayana Hill north-east of the palace-site, in the same

relationship as the Mahamuni is to Half a mile to the north-east of the Dhanyawaddy. The hillock is now covered palace-site, a few hundred feet to the east

with mounds of earth and trees, scattered of Vesali image is Sanghayana Hill. This

with bricks and huge stone slabs, damaged site is so called because of the reputation life-size images and remains of many small of being the site of the fourth Buddhist

96 still synod. The hill is 70 feet high. One side the eastern side. In 1920, it was

of the hill has been cut into a series partially covered by a vaulted roof which of wide terraces, and the top is paved has now fallen to ruin. with bricks under which are large, dressed Inside, an apsidal chamber, 3.3m wide stone blocks. and 4.5m deep was covered by a dome. According to the Rakhine chronicles, The roof had fallen in, thus filling the the King Thiridharnmavizaya convened base of the chamber; facing the entrance a Buddhist assembly in 638 A.D, inviting is a sitting Buddha image, head and arms 1000 monks from different parts of Rakhine now broken, measuring 1.25m from the and 1000 monks from Sri Lanka. thigh to the shoulder (1975 April). Traces Cularevathera was elected chairman and of carved mouldings are visible around the assembly which devoted themselves the outer dome, recently repaired in places to an examination of Buddhist literature with bricks.

for three years. It is probable that the The average size of the stone used

tradition of a 4th synod is associated in was 0.42 x 0.26 x 0.13 m. A carved Rakhine Buddhist hagiography with the stone fragment, constituting a right angle, joint decision of the Pyu and Rakhine the upper arm measuring 2.60 m and the kings to begin a new era in 638 A.D. lower arm 0.30 m, was found near the An image of dwarapala (glcplco) and entrance to the stairway; this must have other architectural fragments, belonging originally formed part of the balustrade. to the late 6th century A.D, were found Similar rectilinear moulded balustrades are

at this site. This figure is five feet high. found on stairways in Sri Lanka archi- The size and shape of this slab suggests tectural style of 5th-7th centuries. The the that it had been a structural part and from carved voluted on the longer arm of the nature of the image we may infer Thingyaingtaung stone is similar in veingstones which that it formed the base of a jamb, part conception to the volute of the gateway of the temple. was evolved in Sri Lanka during that period. The Thingyaingtaung Apart from this, however, the stupa- shaped image shrine did not gain wide Thingyaingtaung "Cemetery Hill" is acceptance in India. The only intact stupa- a large mound thickly covered with ruins shaped image shrines are found in the and debris. It is situated SW of the Vesali Thalawar District of Rajasthan, and they pa lace -site and is thus called because belong to the 6th and 7th centuries. human bones were found there from time Like the Rakhine votive stupas, these to time. Natives have no recollection of have a square platform with mouldings,

the place being used as a burial site, and and a moulded, high cylindrical anda. It

the supposition is that it might have been is possible that excavation of the lower the resting place of the kings of Vesali. portion of the Thingyaintaung Shrine may The tradition may be related to Sriksetra. also reveal a square base. About thirty five yards to the south The main structure at the top of the the of the main building on the top of hill is now completely ruined, but various hill, now completely in ruins, are the carved fragments give some idea of the remains of a circular structure built of original form. Among them were probably stone, 18.97m in circumference. Access a pillar and a pillaster, now being displayed

to it is gained by a covered stairway on in Mrauk-U Museum.

97 F13 The Historical Sites in Dhanyawaddy

The Dhanyawaddy moat enclose the palace -site, which has

an area of 64 acres. This inner city, palace- twentyone miles north of Mrauk- Some site, is rectangular in shape. The east- U and about sixteen miles north of west length is about 2,000 feet while the Vesali is an old city of Dhanyawaddy. north-south length is about 1,700 feet. The earliestcity in Rakhine, Dhanyawaddy The moat, about 200 feet wide, circling is situated west of the ridge lying between the inner city is now covered with paddy the Rivers, Kaladan and Lemro occupying fields. the well-drained foothill area and backed The inner city was a" special site for the ridge. of the by Remains walls and the royal family. People lived within the moats of this city still seen can be on outer city which also enclosed the fields sites. The remains for- many of brick they cultivated. The area of the inner city tifications are still seen along the ridge was only 64 acres. In those days of which protrudes into the city itself. insecurity, when the country was often The old city was of fairly large size, subjected to raids by various hill tribes, almost circular shape with the eastern b the people felt safer within the walls. By wall, made of brick at the the base of enclosing the paddy fields, the people ridge. the western On side only a small would have an assured food supply, even portion of the outer wall remains because under siege, thus permitting them to of the ravages of the Thare creek, a tributary withstand the siege. Normally, the city, of the Kaladan. The creek might once Dhanyawaddy, would have controlled the have formed the the side, moat on west valley and the lower ridges supporting while on the other three sides the moats a mixed wet rice and laungya cultivation, had existed although they are silted now with local chiefs paying allegiance to the over and occupied by paddy fields. king. Dhanyawaddy was made up of an outer At the north-eastern corner of the and inner cities. Looking at the outer city, palace-site is the Mahamuni Shrine, on we find that the east-west diameter is a small hillock, Sirigupta, once the centre 1.3 miles and north -south diameter is 1.55 of the royal cult, which had played a miles, so that the shape is that of an central role throughout the history of irregular circle. It has a perimeter of about Rakhine. This position, in which the shrine 6 miles and encloses and area of about sits at NE site of the palace, is the 1.7 square miles. characteristic position found in many other Within the city, a similar wall and major shrines of urban Buddhist centres

98 in South-East Asia, such as Thailand and The palace-site, at the centre of the Sri Lanka. This tradition may be related city, was the focal point of an irrigation to the early royal ancestors. It can be system which can be discerned in aerial seen in the aerial photographs that this photographs. Water collected in the wet system has been closely followed by the season had been stored in four main tanks present shrines. in city proper, alligned north, south, east Now, although Dhanyawaddy is lo- and west of the palace. The tanks on cated about 60 miles from the sea, the north, east and west are still in use today, city must have been, a sea port at one the southern tank has recently been silted time. Small sailing ships could come right over. The larger tank on the east, situated up the Thare creek to the city. In any along the inner moat, also appeared to case Indian culture and influence had have supplied water to the palace complex. penetrated the city by sea as well as by The introduction of wet-rice agricul- land. Perhaps it was the earliest city built ture and subsequent urbanization is re- in Indian style, a civilized urban type. flected in the chronicled traditions regard- According to Rakhine chronicles, this ing the naming of the city. During Gautama Dhanyawaddy is the third Dhanyawaddy Buddha's stay in Rakhine He was said (B.C. 580 to 326 A.D). The city was to have declared to his disciples: founded by the King Sandasuriya. How- "In Jambudipa (@«|[3o), among the ever, after deciphering Anandacandra in- sixteen countries of Majjhimadesa (q|og3oo) scription of Shitthaung Pegoda, Dr. E.H the food offered to the monks consists Johnston dated the founding of Vesali • of a mixture of maize, beans, corn, and as 350 A.D. Dr. Sircar of Indian Ar- millet(GTOoooi oi ooco\ ^gocoi ©oh). But in this chaeological Survey also agrees with him. country, the food offered consists of He is not in agreement with the local various kinds of barley and rice; such chronicles, but he has suggested the date food is eaten by monks with relish; my of the founding of Vesali to be about preceding 370 A.D. elder brother Buddhas(Kakusan, Gonagamana and Kassapa) had called this If Johnston and Sircar's dates about country (or this city) Dhanyawaddy and the founding of Vesali are accepted, as the inhabitants have never suffered from Dhanyawaddy must have been the capital famine, this region shall in all times of Rakhine only up to 350 or 370 A.D. continue to be called Dhanyawaddy (i.e. Traditionally, the city is called grain-blessed). Dhanyawaddy. The term applies very fittingly to Dhanyawaddy, which depended The Mahamuni Shrine principally on the extensive regions of

riceland surrounding it. With a rainfall Location of over 200 inches a year, the crop never The Mahamuni Shrine one of the most failed. Moreover, there were other things renowned of all Buddhist sites not only that helped maintain itself successfully. in Rakhine State but also in the whole The problem of fresh water supply of Myanmar, is situated 6 miles east of was acute on the Kaladan plain by the Kyauktaw town and 60 miles up the river tidal creek. For water supply, Dhanyawaddy from the mouth of the Kaladan where had many tanks that stored rain water. Sittway,the capital of Rakhine State, lies.

99 -

The shrine was built on a small hillock monks received ordination, can still be at the north-eastern corner of the palace seen today. feet above site of Dhanyawaddy, an ancient city The second platform is thirty area of 240' x 220'. founded by the KingSandasuriya (©§a^cx>) the first and has an The north-east corner of the platform is in 580 B.C. in good preservation. At the corner there Traditionalists believed that, the shrine is a huge banyan tree containing a tree was built to house the image of the Buddha altar consisting of a layer of square stone cast during His sojourn on the Salagiri blocks surrounding the tree. Tradition has Hill near Kyauktaw in 554 B.C. It was it that the Buddha rested under this tree believed that the Mahamuni image, the while His image was being cast. It is actual likenesses of Gautama Buddha, was believed that the original image of cast by a heavenly sculptor, the Lord of Mahamuni remains buried in the ruined celestialrealm. Thus, the Mahamuni Shrine cave under this tree. which houses the Mahamuni image has The topmost platform is 30 feet above been the focus of attention throughout the second. It measures 155' x 115'. The the centuries since its inception. Moreover, shrine stands on this platform. At the four this magical image was sought as a prize cardinal points of the lowest enclosure by neighbouring kings, and it has also are gates from which covered step-ways been the goal of Buddhist worshippers lead to the shrine. from all over the world to pay homage In the central chamber of this shrine to this image. Pilgrims have, for centuries, lies the pedestal on which the Mahamuni from various Buddhist countries to come image was once placed. Now instead of pay their devotions at the foot of this the original image, three stone images great image. of the Buddha are seated on a stone pedestals. The central image; known as

Sight around the Shrine 1 Mahamuni's "brother", is 4 2" high exclusive of the seat. The images sit with the legs The hillock, on which the Mahamuni crossed, the left hand resting on the lap Shrine was built is called Sirigutta (oS^co) with the palm turned upward, the right Hill. It has three levels of flat surfaces. hand over the right knee with the back The shrine was built at the top level. the hand turned upward. All images The whole structure represents three of as crowned-Buddha type or enclosures, one within the other; the second are known Mahamuni type by the natives. The platform is 30 feet above the first and Mahamuni images are usually placed facing the third is 30 feet above the second. east. The entire religious history of The lowest platform measures 580 feet Buddhistic Rakhine had centred around from east to west and 500 feet from north the Mahamuni Shrine, which is called to south. On each side is an entrance "younger brother" of Gautama Buddha. leading towards the topmost chamber in The image was believed by the people a straight ascent 10 feet wide, walled in to be the original resemblance of Gautama on both sides. On the first platform there taken from life and was very highly still is an old library built by King Minkhari venerated. in 1439 A.D. A large tank dug by King In the north-east corner there was once Sandasuriya, a small tank walled in with mysterious Yataya bell. No one ever stone, and an upasampada hall where the

100 \

Plan of the Mahamuni Shrine

v

-"' • :

i!v '* '"- -y tk- .

The Mahamuni Shrine

101 touched it. It was donated by the King Burma the famous image of Gotama Sandathuriyaraza in 1733 A.D. After the the from temple of Mahamuni. This first Anglo-Myanmar War, the beil was highly venerated removed object of worship has to Sittway and was placed in been thus described. The image the court-house. of The donor, Mg Shwe Gotama is made of brass and highly Hmonbroughtthe bell back to theMahamuni burnished. The figure is about 10 Shrine in 1905. feel On the mysterious bell high, in the customary sitting are inscribed magical posture, ciphers used to put with the legs crossed and inverted, invaders to the flight by deranging their left hand resting on the lap and astrological chart and the so placing them right pendent over the right knee." m jeopardy. Now the attractive magical In the year 327 bell has A.D the King mysteriously disappeared from Mahataingcandra founded the the Shrine. new city of Vesali. The King and his son, Crown Prince Suriyacandra, rebuilt a new image Venerations of Buddhist World shrine and placed the image on a new altar made of finely carved marble; According to a palm-leaf manuscript the spires of the ™Uz

of the east side, south of the stairway. up to its neck. The right leg and the

The slab is found greatly damaged. Two greater part of 'the back were missing.

small figures traceable in sitting posture The image was venerated by the hill tribes represent the in their ordinary Buddha as Moekaung Nat (rain devas) (y:ecmc: robes and attitude, and had been chiselled ^co\cd:). The King Dhatharaza built a new out of the original nat figures by the Mahamuni Shrine on the Sirigutta Hill emissaries of Bagan King.** north-east of palace-site of old Dhanya- In the 11th century the great King waddy. He restored the Mahamuni image Anawrahta sojourned from Bagan to to its former form and placed it on the superintend in person the rebuilding of pedestal within the new shrine.* the Mahamuni temple: he also built a It is said that the remaining stone hall in front of the shrine, surmounted *** walls and northern stairway made of huge by a richly carved graduated turret. sandstones may have represented the great In the 11th century A.D, the Bagan historic event. King Alaungsithu sent a minister, 500 noble men, and 50,000 soldiers to Rakhine. Evidence Architecture and Sculpture They erected a camp on the west side of of the Mahamuni Shrine. Employing good As mentioned above, the Buddhists architects to erect a four-sided building had highly venerated and repaired the over the image, they planted champac shrine. According to Rakhine chronicles, trees around it, and repaired the approaches the shrine was destroyed by fire or by to the temxle.+ i pilferage on many occasions throughout In 1103 A.D, Alaungsithu sent an army the centuries and had to be rebuilt time to restore the Kingdom of Rakhine to and again by pious kings during these Letyaminan. The followers set the image centuries. Magic was used to guard the on fire and took away a leg of the image. image. It was being held that its destruction From this event the great image was lost or removal would heraled the fall of the till the reign of KingKawliya who ascended Kingdom. According to the Mahamuni the throne of Rakhine in 1118 A.D. The King Kawliya cast another image of tradition, the stone figures placed at the points Buddha as a copy of Mahamuni image cardinal kept away persons who on the Nandapabbata Hill. The image was approached the image house with evil castof gold, silver, copper and other metals intentions. These figures remained as good collected from the public donations. ++ evidence at present. There are some interesting points regarding the Mahamuni * Akyab District Gazetteer, vol. A, p. 44. Shrine. ** Ancient Arakan, p. 205. *** Firstly, the shrine was built on a hillock Mahamuni Pagoda, p. 6. at the north-eastern corner of the pa lace - + ibid,

++(a)"The Mahamuni Shrine in Arakan, "p. 265. * (a) Mahamuni Introduction, p. 42.

(b)\Rakhinemin thami \ Ayegyin verse 17. (b) The Story of Mahamuni, p. 227. 103 site. This position, in which the shrine The othersculptures found in Mahamuni sits at NE site of the palace, is the are also the earliest in Rakhine. Thev characteristic position found in many other consist of single images, diads and triads. major shrines in urban Buddhist centres They are made of fine-grained red in South-East Asia, and Sri Lanka. This sandstones. Thesculptures are rathersimilar tradition may be related to early royal in design and dresses. ancestors. It is said that all the excavated Pyu cities have the main temple in the The Salagiri Hill northeast of the palace.

Secondly, the shrine is situated within Salagiri Hill is one of the most famous a rectangular wall, with openings at the archaeological site in Rakhine. It is situated four cardinal points, important the most on the east bank of the Kaladan River one being that of the east. The temple 5 miles to the west of Mahamuni Shrine. proper is square in shape, setting towards It is about 250 feet high. This rocky range the west, and is raised over two broad, of hills is known as the Salagiri (The almost square terraces. The square plan Pali, Sala = rock, giri - hill, rocky hill) is typical of early architecture of Funan in the Rakhine history. The local chronicles and slightly later at Dvaravati (The ancient assert that during the reign of Sandasuriya, Khmer Empire and Thailand). King of Dhanyawaddy, the Buddha visited The original structural fragments were Rakhine with His five hundred disciples found in the main temple. The first one, and rested on the summit of this hill. a catiya (gooqco) arch on a lintel fragment, At this site the Buddha held a prophetic is now lying at the south-western corner. The figurine in the centre belongs to the discourse on previous existences during late Gupta tradition. The wig-type hair, which He dwelled in Rakhine. At present large cakra earing, roundface and downcast there is a standing Buddha image on the eyes and rather sensitive expression are top of the hill pointing to his disciples all typical found among the gana figures towards the various places in which his at Bhumara. The catiya motif is well- former lives had been passed. known in the art of Funan ^and Dvaravati, Close to the top are one Buddha image but Mahamuni fragment may well be in a reclining posture and two small earliest example in South-East Asia.* pagodas. From the top there is a good Fortunately one ancient inscription is view over the central plain of Kaladan found at the Mahamuni Shrine, consisting Valley. of three lines on the plinth of an image. After the Buddha had departed from It is now placed in a small shrine at Dhanyawaddy, King Sandasuriya built a the south-eastern corner of the second small pagoda on the top of the hill. In platform of Mahamuni. The script is the 1624 A.D King Siridhammaraza repaired oldest one found in Rakhine or probably this pagoda. in the whole of Myanmar. It is extremely On account of the Mahamuni tradition, important for the dating of the early phase the Salagiri Hill has become the focus of the shrine. ** of attention for the pilgrims from various * (a) Ancient Arakan, p. 190. Buddhist countries. Moreover, a few (b) "Mahamuni Introduction," p. 2. archaeological remains were found on this ** The Buddhist Art of Ancient Arakan, hill p.114.

104 In 1885 Dr. Forchhammer discovered a king. This scene respresents the Mahamuni the iwo-Une inscription among the ruins tradition. In this tradition Buddha came of Salagiri Pagoda, traditionaily built by to Rakhine and rested at the Salagiri Hill. King Sandasuriya, on a block of sandstone King Sandasuriya came on foot five miles

about 1' long. He noted that it,once might from the east of the hill to Salagiri to have formed a part of the throne of an pay homage to the Buddha who preached image.* The inscription may paleographilly to him and the inhabitants the dhammacakka be assigned to around the beginning of sermon. Based on the style of hand posture

the 6th century A.D.** and headdress, it should be dated earlier A miniature stone stupa, total height than 5th century A.D.+ (without the missing umbrella) 3' 8", was In 1986 another five stone slabs were found at the corner of a mound south found buried in a mound, which was near of this hill. Fortunately, the wellknown Shinmakyat situated at the foot of the Buddha's preceding yedhamma verse southern Salagiri Hill. Each slab measures

(guo©«oo1ood) was inscribed on it. The 2' high and 1' 6" broad and very similar

-W^y.'i-'" i":.^--

Salagiri Hill

paleography roughly suggests a date in to the previous Dhammacakra mudra slabs. the first half of the 6th century A.D.*** Each slab contains a bas-relief representing

1 In 1923 a stone slab 2' high and l one particular incident of a previous life 4" broad was found from the base of of the Buddha. The following four scenes this hill. This is a surviving example of depicted by artists are (1) the enlightenment

relief sculpture from the early period. On (2) the first sermon (3) the mahaparinivana the slab it can be seen the sitting Buddha, (4) the donor King figure and (5) the hands in dhammacakka mudra (eg©[ro^(3o), bumiphasa mudra. It is possible that these his right knee slightly raised on an stone slabs once formed parts of a huge undecorated square throne. At his feet temple or pagoda built as a Buddhist sits a man, richly ornamented, perhaps museum exhibiting Great Events of the Buddha's Life. * 8 Archaeological Survey, 195 -5 9,p. 40, p.70. ** Ancient Arakan p.80. +(a) Mrauk-UMuseum,ref:ASB1924 PLV ***The Buddhist Art, p. 17. and pp.44-45. (b)The BuddhistArt. p.79.

105 F13 REFERENCES

1. Aung Thaw, IT. Historical Sites in 14. . "Studies in Dutch Relations Burma, 1972. with King Thiri Thudhamma of 2. Chan Htwan Oung. "The Mahamuni Arakan (1622-38)," JBRS, Vol. Shrine in Arakan," JBRS, Vol.II, XXXVI. pp. 1-10 reprd in JBRS (1912)262-265. 50th Anny Publications. 3. Coedes, G, The Indianized States of 15. Harvey, G.E. History of Burma, South-East Asia. Honolulu, 1968. including Arakan, London, 1925. 4. Collis, M. "Fra Manrique: Glimpse A 16. Johhston, G.E.H. "Some Sanskrit of Arakan in 1638 A.D," JBRS, Inscriptions of Arakan," BSOAS, Vol. XIII (1923)199-220. Vol. XI (1944)357-385. 5 - • "The Strange Murder of King 17. Luard, C.E. Travels of Sebastian Thin Thudhamma," JARS, VoLXIII, Manrique 1629-1643, Vol.1, (1923), III, pp.236-243. Arakan, (printed for the Hakluyt 6- . "The City of Golden Mrauk- Society, Oxford), 1926. U," JBRS, VoLXIII (1923) III, 18. Luce, G.H. Old Burma Early Pagan. pp.244-256. 3.Vols. New York, 1967-70. 7 - • The Land of the Great Image. 19. Luce, G.H and Pe Mg Tin. "Burma London, Faber and Faber, 1942. down to the Fall of Bzgm," JBRS, 8. Collis, M. and San Shwe Bu. " Arakan's Vol XXIX, (1939)265. Place in the Civilisation of the 20. Min Nyunt Han, "Third Season of Bay," JBRS, VolXV, pp.34-52, rep. Excavation at Vesali," in WPD, BRS, 50th Anny. Pub II, pp.485- (September 10, 1982). 504. 21. Myint Aung, U "A Gold Coin of 9. Duroiselle, C. Visit to Arakan, Report Mrauk-U period," WPD, (April of the Superintedent, Archaeo- 4, 1981). logical Survey, Burma, for the 22. Phayre,Sz> Arthur P. History ofBurma. year 1920-21, Yangon, Govt. London, 1883. Printing, 1921. pp. 14-20. 23. San Shwe Bu.'The Story of Maha- 10. Forehhammer, E. Arakan, Mahamuni muni," JBRS, Vol. 1/7(1916) 225- Pagoda, Mrohaung, Launggyet, 229. Minbya, Urittaung, Akyab, and 24 - 'A Brief Note on the Old Sandoway. Yangon, Govt. Press Capital 1891. of Arakan." 25. Sircar, D.C. "Fragmentry Copper- 11. Ghosh, J.M. Magh Raiders in Bengal. Plate Grent from Arakan " Calcutta, Bookland, 1960. ELXXXII (1957) 61-66. 12.Gutman, Pamela. "Ancient Arakan 26 - • "Inscriptions ofthe Chandras with special Reference to its Cultural of Arakan," Epigraphia India, History between the 5th and 11th Vol. XXXII, (1957) 103-109. Centuries" (Ph.D. Thesis.) Aus- 27. Thin Kyi, Dr. "Arakanese Capitals, tralian National University, 1976. A Priliminary Survey of Their 13. Hall, D.G.E. A History of South- Geographical Siting," East Asia. London, Macmillan, JBRS, 1955. VoU7///(1970)M4. 106 Index

Dhatharaza, King, 23, 103 Launggret, (City), 23, 24, 25, 26, 32, Ahiwankan, (moat), 64 Dukkhanthein, 54, 57, 72 76, 88 Ahmyalu, King, 22 Dutch, 18 Laykhinpyin, 64 Ahzona, Prince, 20 Dwarawady, 20, 36 Laymyetnha Pagoda, 57 Alaiseti, 62 Dwarapala, image, 92 Laytankhar Pagoda, 86 Aiaungsithu, (King of Bagan), 103 Dvaravati, 104 Laythalaung, (forthress), 33, 77 . Alawmarphyu, King, 24 Lemro River, 22, 23, 24, 26, 33, 36, Alezi Chaung, 36 75, 88, 95, 98 Anandacandra, King, 96, 99 Forbes, Captain, 101 Letkettaung, 96 Anandathera, 93 Forchlammer, Dr., 101, 104 Lelsekan, 33, 77, 78 Ananta Thiri, King, 23 Letyaminan, King, 23, 103 Andaw Shrine, 51, 53 Lokamanaung Pagoda, 79, 80 Anglo-Myanmar War (First), Gacehabhanady River, 17, 19 71, 78, 94, 101 Galon Taung, 26, 63 M Anomakan (lake), 77 Gandhapabbata, 90 Maga, 18 Anoma Pagoda, 33, 62 Gaz;;pati, King, 90 Maeadha, 18 Anowzaw, Princess, 62 Gerini, 18 Maadu, 18 Anzananaddy River, 22 Gautama Buddha, 100 Mash, 18 Arab, 18 Gyettharetaung, 71 Manabodhi, Shwegu, 63 Aracao, 19 Mahahti Pagoda, 92, 94 Arakan, 17, 18, 19 H Maha Mingyi Kyawzwa, 27, Arakanesc, 17 Hall, D.G.E, 30 Mahamuni Shrine, 17, 21, 27, 31, 32, Areindama spear, 96 Hlaingsaya, training camp, 76 80, 93, 96, 93, 99-103. Arekadesa, 18 hti, 78, 80 mahaparinivana, 105 Argyre, 18 Htuparyon Pagoda, 59 Mahataing Candra, King, 21, 93, 95, Arracan, 19 101 Arrakan, 19 I Mahathera, 93 Arthor Phayre, Sir., 18 India, 18 Mahavizayayanthi Pagoda, 87 Aryans, 22 Indo-Mongoloid, 22 manotcthiha, 59, 78 Aundat creek, 36, 85 Inwa, 25, 30, 32 Manrique, Father, 30, 31, 32, 85 Aungmingala, fortress, 86 Marayu, King, 20 Martaban, 75 B Jataka, 62, 63, 75 Mathataga, 27 Bagan, 18, 23, 30, 101, 102, 103 Jinamanaung Pagoda, 78 Mauktaw, Queen, 79 Bago, 25, 30, 32, 36 Johnston, Dr., 42 Maygawady, 36 Balaksa, 18 Moekaung Nat, 103 Barakaura, 18 K Mohammedan, 76 Barbosa, 19 Kadothein Shrine, 88 Mazalon, 101 Basawphyu, King, 63, 77, 79, 85 Kaladan River, 19, 23, 36, 77, 98 Minbargyi, King, 45 Bee-loo, 17, 18 Kaladan Valley, 95, 104 Minbeeloo, King, 23 Bengal, 19, 25, 26, 32, 36, 78 Kalamyo Pagoda, 77 Minbin, King, 27, 30, 36, 42, 43, 45, Bodhisattva, 22 Kamaungdat Village, 88 56, 47, 51, 63, 73, 76, 77, 78 Brahma, 22 Kanthonsint, City, 20 Mingalamanaung Pagoda, 64 Brahmans, 47 Kanrazagyi, King, 20, 29 Mingala Shwegu Pagoda, 86 Buddha Gaya, 23 Kapilavastu, 4, 20 Mingyi Kyauktan, 27 bumiphasa mudra, 46, 105 Kassapa Mraung 33 Mingyinyo, Prince, 63 Kawliya, King, 72, 88, 92, 94 Minhlaraza, King, 51, 78 Keddah, 74 Mintayapyin, 46, 76 Cakravartin, 42, 43 keinnara, 94 Minhti, King, 76, 88 Candathudhammaraza, King, Khittalhin, King, 22, 86 Minkhamaung, King, 54, 59, 62, 77 64, 78, 79 Khrit, River, 22, 23 Minkari, King, 25, 100 Candadevi, Queen, 71, 96 Koenawin Pagoda, 86 Minkhaung, King of Inwa, 25 Candavizaya, King, 64, 88 Koethaung Pagoda, 73 Minkhaungraza, 58 Caliya, 104 Ko Lo Fend, 22 Minkhaungshwetu Pagoda, 72 China, 18 Kukka, 27 Minkhaw, King, 87 Chitagone, 75 Kyakitethama Moat, 33 Min-ngay-pyaw-hla-sithu, King, 20 Culacandra, King, 22, 96 Kyansiltha, King of Bagan, 23 Minparagyigu, 72 Culapabbata, 93 Kyarkhalaung Moat, 83 Minpaung Pagoda, 62 Cularevathera, 97 Kyaunglaidon Fortress, 74- Minphalaung, King, 27, 29, 54, 60, 72, Kyauknyo, Image, 93 77, 93, 94 D Kyaukpandaung, (City), 20 Mmphoonsa, King, 23 Daingri tank, 85 Kyauktaw, town, 100 Minraibaya, King, 23 Daingripet, (European quarter), 31, 85 Minraikyawzwa, King of Inwa, 25 Danuyupol, King, 24 Minranaung, King, 59 deva, 101 Lakkaukzi Kyaung, (monastery), 79 Minraza, King, 71 dhammacakka, 42, 43 Lasaka, 101 Minrazagyi, King, 30, 46, 51, 80 Dhanyawaddy, 17, 20, 21, 27, 33, 71, Laungbanpyauk Pagoda, 58, 63, 70, 78, Minsawmon, King, 25, 26, 27, 32, 57, 96, 98, 99, 104 79, 86, 90, 92 76, 79, 87

107 Min Saw Oo, King, 72 Pyu, 23, 32, 96, 104 Sittway, 27, 99 Mintaikkha, 63, 72, 73, 74 Pyutatheinmin, King, 23 Sriksetra, 71, Minthagyikone, 62 Srikhittaya, 102 Minthamitaga, 62 R Sri Lanka, 32, 51, 60, 97, 99, 101, 104 Mokseiktaw Pagoda, 57, 58, 59 Rachani, 18 Sula Chandra, 72 Mongols, 22 Rajasthan, 47 Sultan, King, 32, 76 Moon I ay, 27 Rakan, 19 Supannanagara Seinda, 101 Mrauk-U Museum, 71, 97 Rakanj, 18 Sutawpan Image, 78 Mro, (tribe), 22, 96 Rakhine, 17, 18, 19 synod (4th synod), 97 Mukayo Hill, 33 Rakhineminthami Aye gyin,(verse), 93 Myanmar, 25, 32, 36 Rakhinetansaung Pagoda, 87 Myataung, (fortress), 33, 77 Rakhine-pye, 17 Tabinshwehti, King, 30 Myataung Pagoda, 57 Rakhine Yoma, 18 Tagaung (Kingdom), 20 Myinmoenan (high palace), 74, 75, 76 Rakhuin, 18 Taksa, (image), 88 Myinwantaung, (palace-site), 86 Rakiha, 17, 18 Tamil, 18 Myitzuthin, King, 24 Rakkhapura, 17, 18 Tapantaing, (palace-site), 64 Myohaung Taungngu, (City), 24 Raksa, 17 Taungmawtaung Hill, 88 Raksasas, 17 Tazarama Pagoda, 64 N Ramusio, 19 Thabaiktaung, 22 naga, 46, Recon, 17 Thailand, 99 Naff River, 18 Rammawady, 36 Thandway, 25 Nankyagyi, King, 88 Ratanabon Pagoda, 54, 63 Tharapavata Pagoda, 59 Nan-Oo (image), 64, 95 Ratanamanaung Pagoda, 64 Tharikonbaung, 62 Narameikhla, King, 32 Ratanamhankin, Pagoda, 63 Thirithudhammaraza, King, 29, 30, 32 Narapatigyi, King*^ 60, 64 Ratanasanraway Pagoda, 63 64, 69, 72, 85, 97 Naretsa Pagoda, 87 Ralanathinkha, Pagoda, 63, 64 Theingyishwegu, 76 not, 71, 101, 102 Razadirat, King of Bago, 25 Thet, (tribe), 22, 102 Nathakan, (lake), 29 Thinganadi, 75 Natshinmae, Queen, 64, 72 Thingyaingtaung Shrine, 97, 99 Nattaung Hill, 63 Sabhadhanapakarana, 17, 101 Thitsa Bandawa Rahandar, 86 Nay Htwet Para, 46 Sakkathila Pagoda, 77, 78 Thongyaiktasu Shrine, 87 Nay Win Para, 46 Sakyamanaung Pagoda, 69, 71, 72 Tibeto-Myanmar, 22 Nayyin^aya Pagoda, 24 Sain^din (waterfall), 22 Thupabadevi, Queen, 95 Negrito, 17 Salagiri Hill, 17, 19, 100, 104 Neikbuzar Pagoda, 71, 72 Salangarbo, King, 24 U Nga Ton Min, King, 22 Salingathy, King, 62 Udawsaykan, 74, 90 Nicola Conti, 18 Sambawet, (City), 22, 24 Ukundaw Pagoda, 90 Nilarpandaung, (City), 20 samurai, 29 upasampada hall, 100 Nunn-tha-kan, (lake), 29 Sandapabbata, (hill), 93 Urittaung, 36 Nyimadaw Pagoda, 76 Sandasuriya, King, 17, 21, 99. 100, 104 O 101, Sanghayana Hill, 96 Vasudeva, King, 20 Oakkabaia, King, 64 Sanskrit, 17, 18 Vesaii, (City), 20, 21, 22, 33, 42, 80, Santikan Mosque, 76 95, 96 Satu-lokapala Pagoda, 47 Vesaii Paragyi, (image), 95 Paiphyu, King, 71 Sawnanminpyu, Princess, 76, 87 Vasundhra, 47 Panhteintaung (hill), 78 Sawsit, Queen, 20, 25 Vishnu, 22 Pankonthein, 78 Sawshwekya, Princess, 79 Panthanda, Princess, 80 Sawthandar, Queen, 72 W Panzaymyaung, (moat), 27, 61, 62 Sawthuba, Princess, 76 Warettaw, 27 Parabaw Pagoda, 80 Sawthubapara. Pagoda, 76 Warzay (quarter), 80 Paranyinaung Pagoda, 72 Shahabudin Tolisfi, 18 Wathaie Image, 78 Paraoke Pagoda, 72 Shin Htwe, Queen, 54, 57, 62 Wathaie Para", 78 Parapaung (image), 88 Shinkite Pitakataik see-Pita kataik, 89, White Elephant, 27 Parein, (City), 23, 88 60, 62 White Umbrella, 27 Pasoephat, (moat), 33 Shin Maharahtathara, 87 Winmana paddy-house, 71 Pataw Pagoda, 90 Shin Tayzawthara, 87 Wuntinattaung, 71 Paungduk Chaung, (creek), 23, 24 Shitthaung Pagoda, 18, 42, 43, 45, 53, Paungdawdat Pagoda, 93 54, 73, 96 Palaksa, 18 Shiva, 22 Yanchaung, 21 Phokhaung Taung, (hill), 45 Shwegutaung, 32 YattaTa, 74 Pisei Pagoda, 72 Shwekyathem Pagoda, 62, 79 Yattara Bell, 100 Pitakataik, (library), 60, 57, 61, see Shwepaukpin, (stone gate), 77 Yah la Moat, 62 Shinkite Pitakataik Shwedaungyi, (hill), 96 Yah la Fortress, 62 Ploughing mingala, 76 Shwetaung Pagoda, 77 Yoechaung, 22 Ponnataung Fortress, 55, 76 Sidi Atli Chelebi, 18 Yule, Colonel, 18 Portuguese, 18, 19, 36, 45 Sinphyudaw, (water gate), 76 Ywantaung, 27 Ptolemy, 18 Sinphyushin, King, 76 Pyinsa, (City), 22, 23 Sirigutta Hill, 98, 100, 103 Z Pyisoegyi Pagoda, 62 Sircar, Dr., 99 Zonedat Hill, 64

108 * -* -

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*/ , % i Aerial view of Vesali V

Aerial view f DhanyawaM A GUIDE TO u Ancient City of Rakhine, Myanmar

n Shwe Khine (MA)