WOODTURNING NOTES Updated May 2016
WOODTURNING NOTES Updated May 2016
Introduction: These woodturning notes have been compiled based on the numerous techniques and tips which have been generously shared by a wide group of Woodturners at our North East Chapter meetings, including the odd regional seminar, over the past fourteen years.
As these notes were initially recorded as an aid to personal training and development in this craft, they may serve as a useful source of reference from time to time, and also as an opportunity to revert to basics when the need arises. As such, no attempt has been made to accredit any of these contributions to any particular person, however, many Woodturners may recognise their own contributions to this summary.
Each item has been recorded using the minimum amount of description, and have been sub-divided under the following headings:-
1 Turning Techniques and Tips Page 1 2 Finishing Techniques “ 7 3 Cutting Tools “ 11 4 Wood Repairs “ 13 5 Sharpening “ 14 6 Bandsaw “ 16 7 Health & Safety “ 17 8 Basic Chainsaw Safety “ 18 9 Timber Drying “ 24 10 Green Wood “ 25 11 Jigs “ 25 12 Judging “ 27 13 Photography “ 27 14 Miscellaneous “ 28 15 Words of Wisdom “ 30
1: Turning Techniques and Tips:
1 When cutting outside of bowl – work above centre, and cut from base to rim.
2 When cutting inside of bowl – work below centre, and cut from rim to base.
3 The tool will cut in the direction of the bevel. One hand should be lightly holding the tool on the rest, and control the movement of the tool through the handle with the other hand.
4 File the tool rest regularly to ensure a smooth surface.
1 5 Bowl base should be 1/3 of bowl diameter.
6 Shear scrape outside of bowl for final cuts, pulling from base to rim in one continuous pass, operating tool at 45 degrees.
7 To protect lathe bearings – work towards drive.
8 A ring centre in tail stock avoids wander and splitting associated with point centre and improves stability.
9 To avoid grain tear – apply liquid paraffin or sanding sealer.
10 Always mark centre point when turning to facilitate tail stock centring for accurate reverse chucking.
11 Use high revs. for final cuts to achieve a good finish.
12 A good finish from the tool results in less time sanding.
13 Always sharpen tool before final cut.
14 Finish cutting inside of bowl in sections to retain wall strength.
15 Ring centres will give greater accuracy for repeat mountings.
16 Start spindle turning from tailstock – allowing maximum strength at drive end.
17 Torn grain – apply Danish oil – use scraper to remove torn grain at centre height at 90*. Alternative: - Hand scrape with direction of grain.
18 Torn grain – sharpen tool and slow down cut.
19 To check thickness of turning – scratch surface with fingernail – sound changes with thickness.
20 Use jam chuck to remove spigot and to refine bottom of bowl.
21 Use a plastic straw to blow out dust from hollow form.
22 Shape / cut working with the grain.
23 Liquid Paraffin lubricates fibres and keeps dust to a minimum.
24 Let the tool do its own cutting rather than forcing tool.
2 25 Allow tool to take force from cut – allow the transfer of force from you to tool rest.
26 When remounting turning – bring up tail stock before tightening chuck – this will ensure bowl will be square in chuck.
27 Disguise joints with 3 rings using long point of skew.
28 When bead making - never touch centre line of bead to avoid loosing curve.
29 Box making – put convex curve on lid lip to give ‘lip click’ when closing / opening.
30 Cut v section out of jam chuck to give added flexibility.
31 Threading – Apply sanding sealer to timber before threading to strengthen threads.
32 Mark jaws on chuck and wood to correspond for remounting in same place.
33 There should be minimum sanding when wood is cut rubbing on bevel.
34 Leave stool leg spigot under 100 w bulb for 20 minutes to shrink timber.
35 Mark edge of bowl with parting tool to avoid skid over edge.
36 To minimise whip on long spindle work – turn half closest to drive, then reverse spindle between centres and complete 2nd half.
37 When turning different woods together – leave rough turned woods under lamp for about an hour to avoid shrinkage at a later stage.
38 If a fraction too much is taken off spigot – score with skew chisel to open up fibres.
39 To burn groves in base or face – try corner of hardwood, bent panel pin, corner of formica, paper backed sandpaper.
40 Use callipers and parting tool to make required diameter. With callipers in one hand use parting tool to bring down diameter to required size – the callipers will slip into position when required diameter is reached.
41 When cutting inside of platter – continue each cut from outside rim to base for more consistent flow.
3 42 It is OK to sheer cut up-hill when it is necessary to cut with the grain – keep the handle well down.
43 Keep steb drive turning as close as possible to chuck to minimise vibration.
44 Slightly counter sink end of spigot to facilitate clean fit, and to facilitate sanding if required.
45 To centre small piece in chuck – loosely tighten chuck – straighten by putting tool between timber and tool rest – when centred tighten chuck.
46 When cutting fine groves – cutting tool must have sharp point to avoid pulling grain.
47 To get rid of ribbing – take fine cut using hand at back of spindle work for added support.
48 When turning thin walled items – Use a light unit in proximity of the turning to judge wall thickness. The degree of light penetrating the wall will indicate evenness of turning.
49 Slow down the rate of cutting as you approach the centre of the inside of the bowl.
50 Use a pencil mark on the centre of each bead to ensure consistency in bead size.
51 When maximum tool support is required position the tool at the centre of the tool rest. This will also minimize vibration.
52 Put black paper behind turning to highlight profile.
53 Quality of shavings reflects quality of cut.
54 Push on the tool rest – not on the wood.
55 Mark ‘story board’ on masking tape on tool rest.
56 Don’t move your feet at any stage during a cut.
57 Don’t put too much pressure on bevel – as this could give bounce.
58 A platter base should be 2/3rd of its width.
59 To minimise flexing – work on outer rim first, thus leaving maximum strength / support towards centre.
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60 Use wood working drill when drilling wood – steel drill bit can run off centre.
61 Timber must be smooth before texturing.
62 Keep thumb on handle of gouge for maximum control, rather than holding handle with full fist.
63 Turn down speed for sheer pull scraping.
64 Keep continuous movement from centre to edge.
65 When fitting felt to base of turning – cut a narrow groove to facilitate tucking in the edge of the felt.
66 Hold tool handle tight against hip for maximum control. Fit masking tape into jam chuck to assist removal of turning if required.
67 Fundamentals of the perfect cut: (a) Cut side grain: avoid end grain. (b) Chucking – secure and accurate. (c) Sharp Tools – sharpened correctly, and choosing the correct type of tool. (d) Tool Rest – correct height, angle, and smooth surface. (e) Lathe speed – fast but safe. (f) Stance – legs apart; transfer body weight onto tool. (g) Technique.
68 When cutting a cove – present spindle gouge on its side and finish cut on its back.
69 When mounting a large log between centres – drill a hole at each end to take drive and tail support. A 4 point drive is preferable for large logs.
70 When sizing depth of cut – only allow callipers to rest on the timber being cut and allow callipers to drop into position – don’t force callipers.
71 When cutting a Barley Twist – twist should be twice the length of the diameter. The twist should start and finish on the same line.
72 Don’t rub bevel too hard – this may cause ripples when you come off end grain onto side grain: instead gently ride the bevel.
73 When turning a sphere – mark lines 3 mm out from each side of the centre line. Don’t cut in this area. This area can be blended in after shaping the sphere.
74 When turning a finial – shape from tail stock working towards drive end.
5 75 Ensure base of bowl is similar thickness to walls – otherwise the risk of the base splitting is greater.
76 For maximum stability – replace tailstock point with ring centre.
77 When gluing a spigot into position – slightly undercut the joining bead to facilitate a better fit and also to accommodate any excess glue.
78 If experiencing flexing of platter rim – support rim with hand wearing a leather glove.
79 On light finial work – the roughing gouge can be used in a backward pull motion, rubbing the bevel while taking a sheer cut.
80 Support finial with index finger under the finial and touching the tool rest, with thumb pressing on top of the finial as a steady.
81 When drilling on a lathe – do the drilling first.
82 If drill is squealing – apply smear of Vaseline.
83 Instead of marking blank with point of callipers – apply pencil mark at point of callipers.
84 Blow out threads of chuck before mounting on lathe.
85 To mark centre of bowl spigot – cut a V well with the long point of the skew, with the skew flat on the tool rest.
86 Create bead at curve of outside of bowl as a feature when shaping the back.
87 Ensure bevel stays in contact with the timber when pulling back to pick up the next cut.
88 To avoid Danish Oil from solidifying – fill tin with ball bearings to raise level of oil to expel all the air.
89 When measuring with callipers – mark diameter using one point only on side nearest to tool rest with the wood spinning down from the point.
90 If diameter of branch wood is less than 4” it is ok to incorporate the pith.
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2: Finishing Techniques:
1 Retain fine shavings for burnishing after sanding.
2 Danish oil is safe for utensils used for contact with food.
3 Application of Danish Oil raises grain – leave overnight and light sand next day with 400 grit. Apply 3 coats, allowing adequate drying time between coats.
4 Burnish Danish oil finish very lightly with 0000 grade steel wool.
5 Use Liquid Paraffin to lubricate the fibres of torn grain It also keeps dust to a minimum when sanding. Start sanding with 80 grit and sand wet. Reapply liquid paraffin between each sanding.
6 Using wet & dry sandpaper minimises dust.
7 Brush off grit after each sanding before moving on to next sanding grade – this will help in avoiding scratch marks from previous dislodged grit.
8 Better to sand at slow speed with coarse grits to avoid overheating and paper clogging. Speed can be increased for finer grits.
9 For a quick finish – Apply Sanding Sealer, denib with purple Abranet when dry. Polish with Bri Wax using grey Abranet.
10 Use cork block as backing for sanding to keep crisp edges.
11 Application of a matt finish will help to hide finishing defects. A glossy finish can be unforgiving in highlighting scratch marks.
12 Colouring – use masking fluid or Vaseline to avoid colour penetrating / bleeding.
13 Use 600 grit wet & dry for 10 seconds to bring up sheen.
14 Sand by hand between every two grits.
15 Mix Sanding Sealer on a 60/40 or 50/50 basis with Thinners for easier application and a deeper penetration.
7 16 After painting on Sanding Sealer – wipe off excess and when dry rub with very fine shavings with lathe at high speed to achieve a glass finish.
17 Always keep sandpaper moving to minimise continuous scratch marks.
18 Polish wax with tissue with lathe stopped. After 10 minutes start lathe and burnish with paper tissue.
19 Organ oil is a natural oil and is suitable for items that come into contact with food / fruit.
20 Application of Organ oil:- apply liberal coat – leave for 3 minutes, then sand with 600 grit at fast speed. Follow this with 1000 grit and 2000 grit. High speed dries the oil.
21 After sanding to 320 grit apply Danish oil with tissue – while still wet use 400 grit wet & dry sandpaper; the sludge will fill in the grain – dry off sludge with tissue. Apply oil again – use 1200 grit wet & dry when still wet – dry off sludge with tissue. Apply oil again with tissue and leave to dry overnight. Finally burnish to give a lustre finish.
22 When sanding on the lathe - sand at 7 – 9 o’clock, with your elbows tucked into your sides. Use your other hand to support your sanding wrist to achieve maximum control.
23 Power sand at low speed.
24 With the turning stationery – sand with the grain. Re-sand with lathe on to blend areas when the item was stationery.
25 For initial power sanding operate power sander anti-clockwise.
26 Don’t sand beyond 180 grit until all previous sanding marks have been removed.
27 An interesting finishing oil mix – Gum Turpentine, Alkyd Translac and Tung Oil – mixed in equal proportions.
28 To liven up a bowl’s appearance – put brush in headstock and buff.
29 To protect the inside of a bowl prior to applying crackle spray paint on the outside - paint on latex on edge of bowl before applying base coat. The latex can be peeled off afterwards.
30 Using EEE+ Friction Polish reduces sanding marks. It acts as a bond between the EEE and the sanding sealer, and provides base for sheen.
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31 When power sanding – hold the drill tight to your body to avoid kick back and to achieve stability and control.
32 After power sanding to180 grit – apply liquid paraffin and resume with 180. Re-oil before sanding with 240, and other grits.
33 If a turned item is to be handled regularly then seal in the friction polish with an additional application of a Carnauba Wax Stick. This is applied with the lathe at high speed exerting minimum pressure.
34 Starting to sand with 80 grit will result with less time using other grits.
35 Finish with organ oil – wipe off surplus and buff to a shine at high speed to create a low heat.
36 Wrap shavings in sandpaper to help with contours.
37 Clean up groves with sandpaper in seagull wing position.
38 Glue can be removed from wood surface by placing in microwave for 10 seconds, and then rubbing off the glue.
39 Broken edge – burnish with edge of tool or tool handle, rather than trying to sand it out.
40 After using 120grit, burnish with a handful of shavings with a light spray of water on them.
41 Spend more time with finishing cuts to reduce sanding time.
42 Use liquid paraffin when sanding to reduce dust, especially on spalted timber.
43 Dip sanding disc in Danish Oil and sand to cut back raised grain.
44 Prior to painting a project – dampen the surface to raise the grain. Dry with blower for one minute, and sand back raised grain.
45 Burn a decorative mark on the rim of a bowl with paper towel.
46 An alternative finish for small items: - Apply EEE finishing compound on bare timber, then seal with Speed & Eez friction polish to give a perfect finish.
47 Sandpaper from Motor Factor can be ideal for small sharp features.
9 48 Apply 2nd coat of Danish Oil with fine steel wool - this will denib the previous coat.
49 Sandpaper can be cleaned with either synthetic cork, rubber, or a plastic bag.
50 Cut sandpaper with scissors to get clean edge on paper.
51 Using a micro bevel (secondary bevel) avoids friction marks left by a longer bevel.
52 Alternate forward and reverse sanding on the lathe achieves a faster and better finish.
53 For a superb gloss finish:- After applying sanding sealer, apply Tripamax Wax to a 6” stitched mop and buff. Next, apply Pure Carnauba Wax to a 6” loose leaved mop and buff.
54 Use a deck scrubbing brush for cleaning textured surface.
55 Store Woodoc in washing up bottle and store in a dark press upside down – squirt out the amount needed – no air can get in.
56 Oil applied to scorched surface gives a black finish. Wax application gives a brownish/ black finish.
57 When using Sanding Sealer – ensure even application to avoid uneven finish.
58 Try soap pump dispenser for dispersing Woodoc.
59 PVA glue expands in joints, and joints will show through time.
60 Tightbond is preferred for segmented joints.
61 Sealing is the next step after the sanding process. A sealer is applied to the bare wood to act as a barrier to the ingress of moisture & dust. It also serves as a grain filler and as a base for further finishing applications.
62 Dust inhibiting wax suitable for finishing boxes – melt 50% Beeswax, mix with 50% Liquid Paraffin (baby oil) and add a few drops of Lavender Oil and allow to set to a paste. Use inside boxes to eliminate dust and keep heat down when sanding.
63 Apply EEE at low speed and polish off at high speed.
64 When rounding top of box lid – leave a nipple for sanding off instead of trying to cut off.
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65 When wet sanding – use basin of warm water – dip sandpaper on sanding block into basin and sand.
66 Use formica to burn on surface ring where wire burning can’t be used.
67 Small section of floor matting is ideal to use as a sanding block – particularly on inside of platter.
68 When applying spirit dye to a bead – burn a line each side of bead to avoid spirit stain from running.
69 To avoid dust – apply lemon oil to sand paper.
70 Torn grain – apply white spirits before using carpenters scraper working with the grain. White spirits will not leave stain.
71 When using liming wax finish with a matt finish, avoiding any shine.
72 Store sanding sealer in jar with application brush sealed in the lid.
3: Cutting Tools:
1 Operate roughing out gouge 1/8” below centre.
2 Operate scraper at 45 (deg) on its side at above centre, and draw forward in a sheer scraping motion.
3 When cutting inside rim of bowl use a 40 degree bevel. When cutting after half way cut with a 45 degree bevel. Finish bottom with a 54 degree bevel.
4 When using a hollowing tool put liquid paraffin on tool shaft and tool rest to assist with smooth mobility.
5 When using a skew – always keep your hand on top of the tool as a safety precaution in the event of a dig in.
6 The smaller the tool the cleaner the cut.
7 Use skew chisel slightly above centre.
8 Use a hollowing tool on centre line, and work tool flat and parallel to centre.
11 9 When using a square scraper – keep handle ahead of blade to avoid a dig-in.
10 Roughing out gouge could have side grind, and also double bevel. The working bevel should be short – this allows the tool to cut around a curve without heel leaving marks on the wood.
11 When using the Spindle Master – cut with top point for very fine cuts, and cut with side for wider cuts.
12 Use Point Tool to create decorative groves.
13 To control Scraper – place handle against arm.
14 Use long point of skew to cut pummels.
15 Use short point of skew to roll beads, working slightly above centre height.
16 Scraping should be done with nose pointing below centre.
17 Skew chisel – only use the bottom half of the cutting edge, and never engage the cutting edge above its centre point.
18 Control skew from hips – with no movement from arms.
19 When using long handled tools – use your arm for extra tool control.
20 Use synthetic corks for protecting edge of tools.
21 Texturing: With chariot sitting on tool rest – set wheel at 45 degrees – sharpen with diamond file. Introduce wheel below centre. Raise wheel to centre level for cutting – maintain constant level across the complete width. 3 passes of wheel may be needed. Alter angle of wheel to give different texture.
22 Use Cabinet Scraper on torn grain – hand scrape with the grain.
23 Shear scrape with scraper at 45 degrees on the tool rest – handle controlled by holding it under forearm.
24 Use flat scraper on round shapes only – cutting edge on centre line.
25 Use round scraper on flat shapes only – cutting edge on centre line.
26 The heavier the scraper – the less shatter.
27 When chisel gets too short it looses its temper, and is therefore difficult to keep a sharp edge.
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28 When using scraper, present tool slightly above centre with handle higher than cutting edge.
29 When cutting with skew – cut with the short point down and cut at bottom ¼ point of edge. Never cut at any point above the ½ way point of edge. Body movement should be from side to side without moving feet. Let wood come to skew.
30 When beading – use beader above centre – pointing downward. Don’t use any pressure other than the weight of the tool. Turn bead at high speed.
31 When hollowing out using a Simon Hope cutter – present tool at 45 degrees, cutting at centre level – Start the cut at the centre point of the hollow form and sheer cut in a continuous movement to outer edge – lathe at high speed.
32 Before using a round bar scraper – remove the corner point on the left hand side to avoid dig-in.
33 Finish flat surfaces with a 2” Flat Scraper presented at centre at 45 degrees.
34 Use point tool with flat side up and presented at 90 degrees.
35 Present parting tool at about 35 degrees from lowered tool rest.
36 Undercut bowl rim with Sorby tip cutter set at 45 degrees, cutting slightly above centre to avoid dig-in.
37 Use negative rake scraper for final cuts. Ensure to slow down cut when approaching centre to avoid chatter, and allowing chisel time to cut.
38 Negative rake scraper is ideal for cutting ripples from inside of bowl.
4: Wood Repairs:
1 For hair line cracks – apply Red Hot Stuff superglue.
2 For hair line cracks – apply superglue and use accelerator dryer.
3 For larger cracks – apply Yellow Hot Stuff superglue mixed with fine dust from the turning.
4 Use Isopan for filling fishers in timber – mix with wood dust.
13 5 Crack in bowl : Sand – collect powdered dust – put masking tape each side of crack. Apply light glue and fill in the collected dust.
6 Woodworm: Fill holes with superglue and sanding dust. Put timber in microwave for short period. Put timber in freezer for three weeks.
7 Dinged wood: Cover with kitchen paper and apply steam iron to bruised area. Steam will raise dinged area.
8 The end grain of freshly cut timber should be sealed with PVA, or Candle Wax, or Peg to prevent cracking while drying.
9 Carry out repairs to turning after applying sealer to avoid stain marks from superglue.
5: Sharpening:
1 Sharpen skew chisel on oil stone using the four corners of the stone.
2 Bevel should be flat or with slight concave.
3 Sharpen skew by rocking up / down on bevel over 0.25” to 0.5”area of sharpening wheel.
4 Hone skew by making full bevel contact on wet diamond impregnated stone – press on stone with a circular motion. Then strop on wet leather – pulling towards your body.
5 Grind off heel of bevel of gouge to give more manoeuvrability.
6 Spirals occur when pushing the tool too hard. Having to push too hard indicates that the tool is not sharp.
7 A slip stone or small diamond stone is good for restoring a sharp edge.
8 Place a ruler across the end of roughing gouge to ensure sides are level.
9 The suggested cutting bevel angles on various tools varies widely with Turners and some of these are listed as follows:-
14 Roughing Gouge 35 – 45 Bowl Gouges 40 – 60 Spindle Gouges 30 – 40 Parting Tool 20 – 45 Skew Chisel 15 – 30 Square Scraper 35 – 70 Round Nose Scraper 35 – 60 Negative Rake Scraper 60 on bottom and 25 on top. The combined bevel angles should be less than 90 degrees. Only sharpen the bottom bevel.
10 Always sharpen tool before final cut.
11 When ribbing occurs – reduce lathe speed and re-cut with a sharp skew.
12 Round the heel of the bowl gouge to create shorter bevel. This should improve its functionality, and avoid a long heel of the bevel marking the curve of the bowl.
13 Forstners drilling bits need to be sharpened regularly. Sharpen the back section of the cutting edge only with a small diamond sharpener.
14 When sharpening a square scraper, sharpen sides also.
15 Keep drilling auger sharp with oil stone or diamond sharpener.
16 Turning burr timber can be very demanding on the cutting edge and tools require frequent sharpening.
17 Skew chisel sharpening – hone on oilstone – place heel on stone initially, then bring the full bevel onto the stone. Strop on leather strap.
18 Blend in edge of bevel of skew with the tool shaft.
19 Sharpen a little a lot.
20 Sharpen scraper to give burr on top.
21 Frequent sharpening is essential.
22 Wet timber takes edge off gouge 5 times quicker than dry timber; therefore more frequent sharpening is required on wet timber.
23 Keep chisel sharp – a blunt chisel requires additional pressure which could cause holding spigot to break.
15 24 Use a black marker to colour the bevel of the bowl gouge before sharpening – use as a visual guide to ensure full bevel has been addressed.
25 Sharpen spindle gouge with diamond file on inside of bevel.
26 Sharpen Negative Rake on the bottom bevel only.
6: Bandsaw:
1 A sharp blade in the bandsaw is essential in achieving a good curve.
2 Blunt blades may run off cutting line.
3 Cutting wet timber is hard on the bandsaw blade.
4 If guide bearings get stiff – soak in hot oil for period to rejuvenate.
5 Clean blade wheel tyre surface on a regular basis.
6 Drive wheel should be checked for tracking every time the blade is changed.
7 Tension blade by hand on long side – ½ a twist on blade is just right tension.
8 Slacken off blade tension every evening to allow stresses out of blade.
9 After changing blade – run machine for 1 minute to allow it to bed in before use.
10 Dust extractor should be attached to bandsaw and used at all times.
11 Set blade top guides to width of paper from blade. Adjust bottom guide to similar tolerance.
12 Guides should be at back of blade teeth.
13 Use tracking adjustment to run blade on centre of tyre.
14 Adjust back bearing with minimum clearance from blade.
15 When replacing the centre piece try making it from a disk of timber.
16 Use a squaring unit behind the blade to ensure table is set at right angles to blade.
17 Use a V block for holding circular items while cutting.
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18 When preparing a bowl blank which will have its natural edge retained – select a guide disk to match the diameter of the log from a series of pre cut disks. Nail this disk to the top of the log and use as a preparatory cutting guide.
19 Always use a sharp blade and remove resin deposits regularly.
20 Do not use the same blade for both straight and curved cuts, as curved cuts tend to flatten the set on one side of the blade causing it to veer to the side when cutting straight.
21 Change your blade regularly or as soon as it feels that it is loosing sharpness.
22 The blade tension should be just enough to prevent the blade tracking under load.
23 Regularly remove saw dust from the inside of the casing to prevent it from building up between the blade and the rubber tyres.
24 Give the blade time to do the cutting. Don’t force the wood onto the blade. Feeding too forcefully only traps the waste material, creating overheating of the blade.
7: Health & Safety:
1 Blunt turning tools, including blunt bandsaw blades and chainsaw chains are most dangerous and can cause accidents. It is up to you to take responsibility to prevent accidents, and remember accidents are caused, they just don’t happen.
2 Use protective gloves when using finishing oils.
3 Conduct an annual Health & Safety audit in your workshop. Use check list as detailed in IWG, Journal No. 42, and display it in a prominent position in your workshop.
4 Tie log securely to saw-horse before using chainsaw.
5 Grind off sharp tips of callipers for smooth operation.
6 A grommet must be fitted to electric cable at the base of all table and standard lamps
7 Tighten chuck on both keys.
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8 When using callipers to mark line on turning – ensure that you only use the point that touches wood at slightly below centre on the downward spin.
9 Never wrap polishing rag around fingers.
10 Avoid leaving tools / equipment on bed of lathe
11 Never move tool rest while the lathe is running. However, very cautious movement of the banjo may be possible.
12 When using callipers – only engage side nearest to you when measuring required diameter.
SAFETY FIRST
8: BASIC CHAINSAW SAFETY
Introduction: A chainsaw is a high-speed wood-cutting tool with very sharp cutters, therefore, some special safety precautions must be observed. If used incorrectly, chainsaws can be a source of potential danger to the user, onlookers, animals or nearby objects – potentially lethal in unskilled hands. Non-compliance with safety factors could result in serious injury or death. In order to avoid accidents and unnecessary strain, it is important to use the correct working techniques, the best possible safety equipment and a modern chainsaw with functioning features.
Considerations for Purchase: Electric saws may be attractive for use by amateur Woodturners:- Starts instantly. No exhaust fumes. No hot exhaust. No fuel. Relatively light weight. However, they are limited in guide bar size – up to 14” / 16”. Electric saws can be used in uncluttered workshops where petrol fumes would be a health hazard. Portability is restricted to length of cable. Good weather is needed for outdoor use. Petrol saws are powerful and very versatile and can be used almost anywhere except in enclosed places. They are available in a wide range of engines and guide bar sizes.
18 The longer the bar – the heavier the saw - the more tiring it is to use. Fatigue is often the route to an accident. A 14” electric bar is light, less tiring, and more manageable for trimming corners – suitable for the occasional user. Advisable to purchase from a specialist dealer to match your needs and pocket. Avoid the temptation of a cheap second-hand unit as it may be cheaper to buy a new saw by the time servicing and replacements are fitted. Chainsaws can be expensive – but the satisfaction of preparing your own blank can be well worth the expense.
Safety features of chainsaw to take into consideration: Noise levels – proximity to neighbours could be a problem. Most saws create noise levels over 100 dB, however, electric saws tend to be less noisier than petrol saws. Ensure compliance with relevant European CE regulations Look for convenient chain tensioning system. Automatic clutch – the saw should stop immediately when the throttle is released. Additional braking system to give quick stop to the chain in the event of kickback. Low weight for minimise fatigue. A balanced chainsaw reduces fatigue and strain. Automatic lubrication system. This extends the service life of the bar and chain by reducing friction and wear. A low profile bar and chain on light chainsaws – giving a low kickback feature. The bar must guide the chain accurately with minimum friction loss and to withstand the toughest conditions without warping. Design feature to protect nose at the end of the bar – guiding the chain over the nose with minimal friction. Saw should be double insulated. Grip – non-slip material reduces the chance of losing control of the saw. Chain brake – also serves as a hand guard for the upper chain, and is designed to stop the chain in the event of a kickback. Chain Catcher – the chain catcher is designed to catch the chain in the event of the chain breaking or derailing.
Personal Protective Equipment Requirements: Personal protective equipment helps to reduce the risk of injury and gives you peace of mind, so you can concentrate on the job at hand. But remember that there is no such thing as perfect protection against injury, nor can it replace safe working techniques. Clothing must be sturdy and snug fitting, but allow complete freedom of movement. Safety boots / shoes with non slip feature. Cut resistant leg protection trousers or chaps. Cut resistant jacket. Cut resistant gloves.
19 Ear protection. Face protection visor. Hard hat. Communications - mobile phone for communications in the event of an accident.
Causes of Possible Accidents: Losing saw control through loss of footing. Losing balance. Shifting saw weight while cutting at or above waist level. Chainsaw kickback – do not try to cut wood with a diameter greater than the length of the chainsaw guide bar – special techniques are required here. Never cut logs from a log pile – perfect recipe for kickback. Shifting position. Particles in eyes. Contact with hot chainsaw parts. Tripping on electrical cord. Chainsaw striking the ground – never let the tip of the saw hit the ground, as this causes kickback and dulls the chain. Working on uneven ground and slopes. Freshly debarked logs. Be aware of the fatigue factor – chainsaw work can be hard work and demanding – take adequate personal breaks. Never stand directly behind the saw blade – your body should be entirely to the left of the chain cutting line. Be sure to keep the chain sharp.
Chainsaw Training: General training in chainsaw operation will give you a good understanding of how to use and respect your saw. Eg. Safety Video or experienced operator. For details of chainsaw training - contact www.coillte.ie
Operation Precautions: The following guidelines relate to operating an electric chainsaw on small to light work only. Tree felling requires specialized training. Avoid working in the rain or in wet or damp conditions. Before starting to cut ensure that the saw is running at full speed – then begin cutting at the base of the guide bar with the bumper spikes in contact with the timber. Hold the front handlebar with your left hand with a firm grip, and keep your arm straight for best control. Keep a steady grip on both handles on the saw. Thumbs and fingers must be completely wrapped around the handles. It is very important to hold the thumb of your left hand under the front handle in order to reduce the force of a possible kickback.
20 Hold the saw close to your body for better balance and to make it feel less heavy. To achieve the best possible balance – stand with your feet shoulder width apart, with your left foot slightly in front of your right foot. Your back should have a straight posture. If working in a low position – bend your knees. Protect power cord from damage, sharp edges, heat, oil, etc. Operate chainsaw with power cord behind you. Keep within calling distance of others in case help is needed. If level of dust is high – wear a suitable respirator. Don’t smoke when operating a chainsaw – reduce the risk of fire. If working on a slope – stand on the uphill side of the log. Never operate the saw with one hand. Never operate the saw on any insecure support. If using an extension cord – cable must not be looped. Wood chips from the saw may contain small amounts of chain oil – so keep away from pets and ponds. Do brush cooling slots on motor at regular intervals. Prolonged use may result in vibration-induced circulation problems – white fingers. It is good practice and a good reminder to keep a ‘First Aid Box’ close to the work area. Don’t work with a dull or damaged chain – this will increase physical effort, cause higher vibrations, produces unsatisfactory results, and a higher rate of wear. To avoid timber tear - first make undercut, then proceed to cut from top to meet the undercut. When cutting large log – cut from the top, then turn log over and cut remaining section by inserting the running blade in the cut and finish with an upward cut. Allow the saw to do the work with the minimum of pressure – walk the saw through the cut.
Cutting Area: Choose a clear, un-congested area - free from tripping hazards. Secure the log on a sawhorse or V block. Ensure adequate lighting of work area.
Preparing The Log: It is important to know where the timber comes from, and to know what foreign bodies to look out for. Trees may have hidden nails, washing line attachments, bird houses, tree houses, ladders, barbed wire, etc, which may not be easy to see – but look out for unusual scars or ripples – it could save you a lot of expense in repairs, or could be a potential hazard to the operator. Felling timber should be confined to the dormant season when the sap is not rising, and the leaves have dropped.
21 Remove 1” from either side of the central pith.
Before Starting Chainsaw: Check Hand Guard is free from dirt and moves freely. Check oil level. Check correctly mounted guide bar. Keep handles dry and clean to ensure safe control. Check chain tension by pulling on the top centre of the chain’s shark teeth, which should not be proud of runway. Chain should not be too tight or too loose. Check position of cable. Check motor housing is not damaged in any way.
Reactive Forces: The most common reactive forces are:- Kickback, Pushback and Pull-in.
Reducing the Risk of Kickback: Kickback occurs when the top quadrant of the bar nose strikes a solid object while the chain is in motion, or is pinched in the cut, causing a rapid uncontrolled upward movement of the saw towards the operator. It could result in severe or fatal injury. Kickback can occur during most work procedures if the saw is not handled carefully. This is why it is essential to learn and use correct saw techniques. Always ensure that your chain saw has a working chain break. The quick-stop chain brake cannot prevent kickback – when activated it stops the chain within a fraction of a second. To reduce the risk of kickback and its consequences, make sure you are standing clear of the cutting action – that is standing to the left of the saw. Don’t force the saw through the log. Hold the chainsaw firmly with both hands. Be aware of the location of the guide bar at all times Do not cut with the bar nose. Never cut several limbs at once. Do not overreach. Never cut above shoulder height. Use extreme caution when re-entering a previous cut. Do not attempt plunge cuts if you are not experienced in this cutting technique. Be aware of position of log and forces that cause the cut to close and pinch the chain. Use a plastic wedge to prevent chain from binding. Use a low kickback chain and a narrow radius guide bar. Work cautiously and avoid situations which could cause kickback.
Pushback: Pushback occurs when the chain on the top of the bar is suddenly pinched, caught or encounters a foreign object in the wood. The reaction of the chain drives the saw straight back towards the operator.
22 To avoid pushback – be alert to situations that may cause the top of the guide bar to be pinched. Do not twist the guide bar in the cut.
Pull-in: Pull-in occurs when the chain at the bottom of the bar is suddenly pinched, caught, or encounters a foreign object in the wood. The reaction of the chain pulls the saw forward. To avoid pull-in – always hold the spiked bumper securely against the log.
Cross Cutting Principles: Never work without the spiked bumper firmly in the wood first – then start cutting Feed the cut by carefully raising the rear handle. Control the saw with the front handle. Use the pulling chain – ie the part on the bottom of the bar – where the chain is running back into the saw body, but pulling the saw away from the operator. If there is a need to adjust the position of the log or your stance – stop the saw – reposition - recommence. Never ignore recommended procedures – otherwise injury is inevitable. Always cut with a correctly sharpened and properly tensioned chain. As the chain warms it will expand and sag, and may need minor adjustment to tension, to avoid it jumping off the bar. Never put your foot on the log to prevent it from moving or allow anyone to hold the log for you. Engage the bumper spikes at the front of the saw body into the log – it acts as a pivot point for the saw to cut and helps to prevent the timber from moving.
Ripping: Ripping is cutting longitudinally with the grain – eg. Splitting a log in half to produce two bowl blanks. Stand the log on a deep V block and let the saw do the work – don’t force the cut. Using this cutting technique it will not be necessary to engage the bumper spikes for this operation. Operate guide bar at shallowest possible angle. Watch for danger of pull-in / or kickback.
Re-positioning in the cut: Carefully withdraw the saw until the spiked bumper is clear of the log – with chain running. Then stop the saw. Re-engage the spiked bumper. Continue cutting by carefully applying light pressure on the front handle. When coming to the end of the cut be prepared to take the weight of the saw - it might otherwise go out of control.
Chain Lubricant:
23 Never operate the saw without chain lubrication. Use an environmentally compatible chain lubricant – Do not use waste oil. Every new saw has to be run-in for 2 to 3 minutes.
After Finishing Work: Unplug. Slacken off the chain tension, as the chain contracts as it cools down. Fit the chain guard. Carry by the front handle. Store in upright position to avoid oil spillage. Store in dry conditions – avoid damp storage areas. Spray chain and bar with corrosion inhibiting oil.
Maintenance: Proper maintenance is essential to safe chainsaw operation. Keep saw teeth sharp. Properly sharpened – it will slice through wood effortlessly and requires little feed pressure. Dull teeth are more likely to cause kickback. Use proper lubrication and keep oil level topped up. Ensure chain tension is adequate at all times. Clean your chainsaw regularly. Apply grease to chain sprockets at drive and nose on a regular basis. Annual servicing by your Authorised Dealer is recommended for the hobby and occasional user. Clean groove in chain bar to ensure chain sits in properly. File away any burr around chain bar groove. Sharpen chain if it hits clay or ground. Sharpen teeth at 30 degrees. Or if cutting hard or dry timber sharpen at 25 degrees. Mark chain where sharpening starts. Use very gentle pressure when pushing file – stand over file to ensure consistent angle is being maintained. Never operate filing above waist level.
9: Timber Drying:
1 Make your own Timber Dryer:- Use a small cabinet with capacity for about 6 wet turned bowls. Make provision for a small air intake at one side, and a 3” extractor fan on the other side. Install a 100 w bulb. Operate as follows:-
24 Week 1 & 2 Operate fan full time. Week 3 & 4 Operate bulb for 12 hours, and off for 12 hours each day. Week 5 & 6 Operate fan for 12 hours, and off for 12 hours each day.
2 With air-drying expect to achieve 20% moisture.
10: Green Wood:
1 Seal with melted candle wax to prevent cracking. Soaking timber in diluted Peg for 24 hours will also prevent cracking. Diluted PVA can also be very effective.
2 Harvest timber in October while sap is dropping.
3 Rough turn wet bowls and store until dry – ensure bowl is dated. Work on dry bowls in rotation.
4 Blow water out of bowl with compressed air to avoid staining.
5 Ensure that a punch hole marks the centre of the re-chucking spigot.
6 It is recommended to wet turn during Winter – and never after March / April.
11: Jigs:
1 A cone shaped tail centre in the tail stock can contribute to ‘spindle whip’. Make a flat wooden steady to fit over the tail centre with the tip of the tail centre protruding to reduce whip.
2 An alternative method for mounting a bowl blank without screwing it to a face plate: Screw a face plate to a dedicated blank holding plate which is at least 2” tick and a diameter to suit your bowl sizes. Turn to a disc with a 1” x 1” central spigot which will be used for mounting the bowl. Fit 5 screws around the perimeter of the face plate, ensuring the tips of the screws protrude sufficiently to grip the bowl blank. All that is needed to mount the bowl blank is to drill a 1” hole in the centre of the bowl blank and fit it onto the holding plate jig. Secure mounting with tail stock.
25 3 Expansion jam chuck: Example – hollow out a circular blank. Cut 8 slots in hollowed unit. Drill a small hole at the inside end of each slot. Drill hole in bottom centre of hollowed form to facilitate removal of turning if necessary.
4 Drilling jig on lathe: Turn a shaft to fit your tool rest banjo, leaving a rectangular block on top of the banjo shaft. Drill through the block with your most popular drill sizes used. Set required drill hole on centre line for drilling.
5 Egg Holding Expansion Chuck – use plastic pipe. Cut 8 splits in pipe. Fit tightening ring over the splits to secure egg on position when reverse chucking.
6 Use a bulldog clip as a sandpaper holder, which can be secured to a magnet attached to the lathe.
7 Sandpaper holder fitted to lathe bed: – Take a 2”x 2”x 10” piece of timber: cut a series of narrow V cuts on the top to accommodate your required sandpaper. Fit a spacer block to the bottom of this holder to slide on your lathe bed.
8 Chuck Jaw Measurements: Using a section of Perspex, cut out 2 slots on one side representing the internal minimum and maximum diameter of your chuck. On the other side cut out 2 slots representing the external minimum and maximum diameter of chuck.
9 How to make a sanding tool: Take a piece of timber 9” x 3” – shape timber into a sanding tool with provision for a 3” sanding disc at one end and a 2” sanding disc at the other end. Glue flexible rubber to each end and glue felcro to suit each sanding disc. Shape centre section for comfortable holding.
10 When a turning requires to be accurately split – use a V block which is mounted on one half of a strong flat baton. Using the bandsaw cut a straight line through the centre of the V and the section of the baton holding the V block. The turned item is placed on the V block ready for splitting on the bandsaw.
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12: Judging:
1 Judging can provide valuable feedback that can be used to improve technique.
2 Typical judging criteria areas may include the following items set out in a matrix system, and points awarded under the various headings:- Not Very Satisfactory Satisfactory Good Good Excellent Craftsmanship Function Innovation Design Appearance Degree of Difficulty Finish Impact
3 Pay great attention to detail, form and finish – producing work that is beautiful to the eye and tactile to the touch.
13: Photography:
Using a digital camera to photograph your turned items at their best try the following techniques:-
1 Set your camera to fine resolution to achieve high quality pictures.
2 Look through view finder and focus on desired profile of the item.
3 Before taking the picture frame the object omitting unwanted items from the background.
4 Setting up the picture using a cloth background helps to achieve this objective.
5 Set up picture to eliminate shadows – led lighting can be good in avoiding shadows.
6 When e-mailing photographs - send one picture per e-mail rather than all pictures in one e-mail. This method has been upgraded by using Dropbox to send multiple photographs per occasion.
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7 Ensure that people and items are identified in each photograph.
8 Use tripod for sharp focus.
9 Put something in picture to show scale when necessary.
14: Miscellaneous:
1 An ebonizing liquid can be prepared by placing steel wool or iron filings and white malt vinegar in an open glass jar for about one week. Brew this mixture in an open shed to allow the odour from the chemical reaction to dissipate. This liquid will convert oak to a black colour to look like bog oak.
2 Nail polish remover will remove glue left from using double sided tape.
3 Use magnet on side of lathe to hold tools.
4 Use button magnets on side of lathe and bandsaw to hold steel ruler.
5 A circular rotary stand set in the bottom of a computer chair makes an excellent tool stand.
6 Use the base of a car oil filter to make a face plate.
7 Use scrap wood to make a desk pen holder.
8 It is recommended to make toys from beech as the timber is non toxic.
9 File tool-rest to remove notches, and sand surface to give a smooth surface. Also, a rub of candle wax on the tool-rest can help to assist smooth tool movement.
10 End grain can soak up finishing oil faster than side grain.
11 Use artist’s roller to spread glue evenly when gluing timbers – apply glue to one side only.
12 De-waxed French Polish can be used to seal and polish.
13 Morgan McMahon, Dublin Docks, supply variety of planks for turning.
14 Check www.dustbegone.com for Air Mask.
15 Harvest timber from October onwards while the sap is dropping.
28 16 Grind sharp nose ends off callipers to avoid kick back when checking diameter of turning while the lathe is running.
17 Titebond 11 glue has the advantage of not expanding.
18 Clean teak with white spirit to remove natural oil prior to oiling.
19 Drill with finest drill increasing to larger drills to avoid tearing wood.
20 If practical, drill required holes when the blank is square.
21 Drill hole in bottom of jam chuck to aid removal of turning should it become stuck in chuck.
22 Using a blow torch on wide grained wood will give a rope like effect. Brush blow torched area with a stiff nylon brush.
23 When drilling timber – clamp waste timber to the base to avoid splinter break-out.
24 Use tool rest to support pin unit until pressed into indexing unit.
25 Treat soft spalted wood with Ronseal Wet Rot Wood Hardner.
26 Soak spalted timber in washing up liquid for 2 days and drain for 12 hours.
27 Treat soft spalted wood with superglue.
28 Use a drill bit held in pliers to find centre point of turning, and push to drill straight drill hole.
29 Colour code tools for identification.
30 An electric wood carver is good for removing timber at the base of a project – use the blade across the grain.
31 Keep ebony dust – use with resin to make inlay.
32 Mix in a little Danish Oil into polishing wax to make a slight paste.
33 Store drill chuck keys on magnet.
34 Turn finial between centres to bring to round. Then fit rounded finial into drive chuck to minimise flexing. Put new true centre for tailstock and bring back spindle to round.
35 Titebond 11 glue does not leave glue line.
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36 Use barrier cream on hands when working with spalted timber to avoid dermatitis.
37 Use sock over centre of jam chuck to protect inside surfaces.
38 Inside out turning – mark work pieces with candle wax to stop glue from spreading.
39 If you have woodworm in burr – put it in the microwave for five minutes with a bowl of water. Alternatively, wrap it in plastic and put it in the freezer at -20 degrees for two weeks.
40 Sapwood is more likely to attract woodworm – microwave is the most reliable method to kill woodworm larva.
41 Quarter sawn timber is the most stable section.
42 Catches are the bane of novice turners and overly aggressive professionals. Catches can cause nasty gouges in the work-piece if the cutting tool is positioned with too much of it hanging out over the tool rest, a strong catch can occur, and which would be considered a bad Thing and most likely to cause loud exclamations of words that we do not encourage our children to use.
43 Wood has characters of its own and it is a great shame to take away the attractive natural things in it. Make your work to express the character of the wood rather than hiding its flaws.
44 Plain wood – consider decoration.
45 Watch out for woodworm on the move during March, April and May.
46 Cover visor with cling film – replace cling film when splashed with sanding sealer.
47 Spray 3-in-1 lubricant on bed of lathe to free up movement of tailstock and tool rest.
15: Words of Wisdom:
1 An error doesn’t become a mistake until you refuse to correct it.
2 As every thread of gold is valuable so is every moment of time.
3 The word impossible is not in my dictionary.
30 4 It is no disgrace to start all over. It is usually an opportunity.
5 We must either find a way or make one.
6 Turn your face to the sun and the shadows fall behind you.
7 As you slide down the banister of life, make sure the splinters are pointing in the right direction.
8 Vision is the art of seeing things invisible.
9 When you come to a fork in the road, take it.
10 Reach for the moon; even if you miss, you will land among the stars.
11 If you want to be seen, stand up. If you want to be heard, speak up. If you want to be appreciated, shut up.
12 Before anything else, preparation is the key to success.
13 If you can’t dazzle them with dexterity, baffle them with bull.
14 Successful turners did not attain their success without first overcoming challenges.
15 The work praises the person.
16 Sometimes we forget our common sense and over complicate matters.
17 If you like things easy, you’ll have difficulties; if you like problems, you’ll succeed.
18 I’ve learned that making a ‘living’ is not the same thing as making a ‘life’.
19 If you don’t know where you are going, you will wind up somewhere else.
20 Our losses should frequently be put on the credit side.
21 If you ever need a helping hand you’ll find one at the end of your arm.
22 After climbing a great hill, one only finds that there are many more hills to climb.
23 Choose a job you love, and you will never have to work a day in your life.
24 Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work.
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25 The first man gets the oyster, the second man gets the shell.
26 Are ideas born interesting or made interesting?
27 Experience is something you don’t get until just after you need it.
28 Never, under any circumstances, take a sleeping pill and a laxative on the same night.
29 Always remember you’re unique. Just like everyone else.
30 Never test the depth of the water with both feet.
31 If you think nobody cares whether you’re alive or dead, try missing a couple of mortgage payments.
32 Before you criticise someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you criticise them, you’re a mile away and you have their shoes.
33 If at first you don’t succeed, skydiving is not for you.
34 If you lend someone € 20 and never see that person again, it was probably well worth it.
35 Some days you are the bug; some days you are the wind screen.
36 A closed mouth gathers no foot.
37 There are two theories for arguing with women. Neither one works.
38 Generally speaking, you aren’t learning much when your lips are moving.
39 The more you know, the more you know you don’t know.
40 Measure twice and cut once.
41 The trial and crisis of to-day may be the triumph of tomorrow.
42 If you are angry count 100 before speaking: if the other person is bigger count 1000.
43 The best work I do is the work I will do tomorrow.
44 Some mistakes are too much fun to only make once.
32 45 Birthdays are good for you; the more you have the longer you live.
46 If you always do what you always did you’ll always get what you always get.
47 I love sharing as it is not my tools.
48 A smart man changes his mind – a fool never does.
49 Maybe it’s not always about trying to fix something broken – maybe its about starting over and creating something better.
50 I’m only responsible for what I say, not for what you understand.
51 The only thing worse than finding a worm in your apple is to find only half a worm.
52 Ability is what you can do, attitude is whether you can do it.
53 Woodturning has few limitations, except the ones you make.
54 Unless you try to do something beyond what you have already mastered, you will never grow.
55 Our work is the presentation of our capabilities.
56 Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm.
57 One of the true tests of woodturning is the ability to recognize a problem before it becomes an emergency.
58 We judge ourselves by what we feel capable of doing, while others judge us by what we have already done.
59 Ability is what you’re capable of doing. Motivation determines what you do. Attitude determines how well you do it.
60 You are the only person on earth who can use your ability.
61 Stop thinking in terms of limitations and start thinking in terms of possibilities.
62 Be thankful when you don’t know something, for it gives you the opportunity to learn.
33 63 Learn to smile at every situation. See it as an opportunity to prove your strength and ability.
64 In the middle of difficulty lies opportunity.
65 Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work.
66 The pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity. The optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty.
67 Take care of your Thoughts because they become Words Take care of your Words because they become Actions Take care of your Actions because they become Habits Take care of your Habits because they will become your Character Take care of your Character because it will form your Destiny And your Destiny will be your Life.
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