<<

Lattice Box Cover

Joel Blazek Copyright 2015 Holder/ Master Blank Holder/ Drill

• In order to hold work on the it will be necessary to make a blank holder for your work. It should be made of stable, flat stock 1½” to 2” thick. It should also have a larger diameter than the eccentric dimension of your blank. Size considerations should also be given to the type and size of your lathe. In an eccentric position your work will create an uneven rotation depending on the eccentric offset. • Make sure you drill both the blank holder and the drill jig at the same time sandwiched together as you drill. This way the two pieces will line up. Blank Holder/ Drill Jig

• The you use should match the you use to line up your work and mount to the turning blank. • The drill should have as low a point profile as possible. • 2 drill bits matched make the process easier. Use one for general drill work such as your starter hole through the drill jig. • The second drill can then be marked to the proper drill depth and used to drill out the center hole and offset hole.

Lathe work

• Turn 2 pieces between centers with a foot on each. • Mount each piece in your • Sand Face • Using a Jacobs chuck, drill center hole through each piece. Make sure you use a drill bit that matches the dowel you will be using. 3/8” works well.

Times 2

Drill Press work

• The center hole is drilled on the lathe. • The second hole can be drilled with a hand drill. If you have a drill press it is much easier and more accurate. • Sandwich both the blank holder and the drill jig with a dowel through the center of both pieces. • Mark your offset eccentric and drill both pieces at the same time. Consider when you decide what offset what your lathe and your work will handle. Blank Holder glue up

• Use the matching dowel (3/8” works well) to your drill bit size. • Cut dowel pieces to match the blank holder thickness PLUS ½” • ONLY on the blank holder glue up the in the center hole and offset making sure the dowels are flush with the foot side of the holder. This will leave ½” of the dowel extended on the face side of the holder • Nothing will be done to the drill jig. It is only used as a guide to drill your blanks. Drill press Preparing Turning Blank

FLIP

F

L

I

P FLIP Turning blank

• On the lathe, turn your blank between centers and turn a foot. The blank should be at least 1 1/3” to 1½” and flat. • Flip piece and mount in chuck. Make sure the diameter will be the right size for your project. • Sand your outer diameter and true up and sand face of blank. • Drill center whole, make sure your depth will match your blank holder, ½” works well. Make sure you sand the face BEFORE you drill your piece. SAND

SAND

SAND Drill your offset

• Using your drill jig place a dowel though the center of the drill jig and into the face of your turning blank in the hole you drilled on the lathe. • Using the drill jig drill a starter hole in your blank. DO NOT drill more than a ¼” into the blank. • Remove the drill jig and continue to drill the hole to the proper depth ½”. • You will end up with a turning blank 1¼” thick with a foot on one side and a sanded face with a center hole and offset hole ½” deep. Drill Turning Blank Mounting Turning Blank Project decision time

• At this point you can either turn a lidded lattice box top OR a lidded eccentric of round pattern box top OR an insert accent piece. • If you decide to turn a decorative insert or stand alone piece you will only mount the work on your blank holder, true up and sand face. Turn the piece using either the eccentric position, or the center position, or both. After sanding the face, flip the work, mount it back in a chuck, mega jaw chuck, or jam chuck. Turn off the back of the work down to the final thickness. • Color, insert metal, insert powdered stone, or use as is. Finished Insert Lidded Lattice Top

• Mount turning blank on taped holder making sure blank is flat against holder • Mount blank using the center position • True up face and sand surface. • Remove blank re-tape holder and mount in the eccentric position. • Mark your design, keeping in mind where grooves will fall on the blank. • Using a sharp parting knife, lightly turn starter grooves on work. Lidded Jaw top

• Using a very sharp , continue to turn deeper into the grooves, not to exceed ¼” deep. • Put a reference mark on your tool to let you know how deep you are penetrating the work. Make light cuts and stop the lathe to make sure your blank is secure to the holder and how deep you are cutting. • When proper depth is reached, sand face taking care not to snag your work. Prep Face Remount Eccentric Mark and Cut Eccentric

Sand Face Flip and remount

• Flip work and mount in chuck with mega jaws. • Using a parting tool, cut the thickness of your rim. • Clean out the center of the lip to the depth of the drill holes, using a bowl gouge and scraper. Do Not go any deeper than the depth of the drill holes. • If you have maintained total thickness of 1” and you cut your eccentric grooves ¼” and you cut away ½” to the depth of your drill hole, this should leave you ¼” of unturned . Measure and adjust at this point. Turn round groves

• If your blank has ¼” eccentric grooves and ½” open bottom you will be marking your circular cut pattern, keeping in mind not to get too close to the outside edge, you will need to get your tool into that outer edge ring. • Start using your parting tool to mark a light in the lid, follow up with a SHARP tool opening the groove to the proper depth. • Stop and check your depth often so you don’t penetrate too deep. • Sand inside of lid. Reverse Chuck Cut Insert and Circles

• Chuck • Chuck with Powergrip jaws or jam chuck • Bowl Gouge • Parting tool • Sanding disk Note to Turners

• 1 1/3” to 1½” base stock FLAT WOOD A MUST • Rough thickness 1¼” including foot • Finished thickness is 1” -- ¼” eccentric, ¼” round, ½” recess • Sand as you go, remounts are difficult • LIGHT Cuts, SHARP tools • Thin double sided tape, No foam tape Tape (use thin not thick) THANKS

• Thanks to Doug Bowling • Flatland Woodturning