COMPLIMENTARY

Wines of Distinction

A FRESH START

ISSUE: #004 WINTER 2015 Welcome Another year is upon us, where does the time go? Contributors I always enjoy the start of the year in Brought to you by the geeks at Matthew Clark the northern hemisphere , it’s time to take a moment after the busy Siobhan Irons is Tiffany Mogg is , take stock and assess the one of our buyers our Wine Marketing fruits of labour. and after spending Manger. Having 9 years working in worked in the wine With this in mind, we’ve caught up the On-trade fol- trade since 2007 with many of our producers and wine lowed by a stint at Majestic, couldn’t she can’t imagine makers to bring you the latest from resist getting even doing anything else, their , and really understand closer to the product by applying for “it seemed an obvious choice for me, what makes them tick. buying role. Three years later, every most people that work with wine have day is still different and she loves the a natural affinity towards food as well I’ve been grilled on all things French feeling of finding that gem that will coming together with friends and family. in ‘Maison du Vin’ and we also delve make someone’s day and add that I am very lucky to work with such like- little extra to your wine list. further into France with The Pleasure minded people, some of which have become the best of friends.” Tiffany Maker, Jean Pierre Sauvion who David Kelly David is just about to shares his love for the Loire, and also holds her WSET Diploma and is a pass the four year qualified WSET Educator. have a quick chat with the lovely Laure mark with Matthew Columbo who updates us from The Clark, two of which Rachel Love is Rhône. have been as a spending her tenth Wine Development year in the wine trade Despite the quieter season for those Specialist. He’s just but her passion for in the north, don’t be fooled about started his Wine Di- wine started earlier preparation for harvest in the southern ploma so you might than that through hemisphere...or indeed how busy we just find him buried in a book over the regular family holidays are here at MC, with over 180 new next year! to wine regions of France. Her career in the industry added to the range, we can’t Zoe Coombs is our began at Majestic Wine in 2004 and wait to share them with you. We’ve Wine Development even dropped in a few exciting new Specialist for the has travelled extensively to wine regions additions over the next 44 pages...so South West, with around the world, completed her WSET keep your eyes peeled for an exclusive a passion for wine, Diploma with a lot of fun had along the she’s an integral way! Rachel joined Matthew Clark in preview of them. part of the team, 2013 as Wine Development Specialist having started with and has recently qualified as a certified We love to talk all things wine, so why Matthew Clark in WSET educator. not drop us a line , better yet, I’ll see 2000 and working within the On-Trade you at our exciting London Wine event since she was 18. The last couple Emmy Webster on the 3rd of March #WhyWeLoveW- of years have seen her achieve her is our resident PR WSET Diploma and qualify as a WSET ine guru and spends Educator. most of her time talking about, Cheers! Laurie Davis, our resident Aussie, writing about and Simon has always had a tasting wine. Work- passion for wine ing closely with our which started when Matthew Clark wine geeks as well as picking grapes in suppliers, and wine makers alike, her school holidays knowledge and thirst for the category for Bruce Tyrrell in is growing by the day. Her love for the the Hunter Valley. On-Trade stems from having ran two After a 16 year On-Trade outlets, she is content on stint as a chef in the UK and OZ, he either side of the bar! joined Matthew Clark 14 years ago, turning his wine habit into a career. Having worked on the sales side for many years, he now sits as our Wine Controller. 02 04 ISSUE: #004 El Camino New Kids on the block Brian Meacher from Don Wine Controller Laurie Jacobo, delves into his Davis tells us about the Contents very own Pilgrimage new kids in town Matthew Clark | Vini | Winter 2015 through

@MatthewClarkLtd 05 10 PLEASE NOTE Façonneur de Plaisir THE CODES LISTED NEXT TO WINES La Maison du Vin ARE OUR PRODUCT CODES WHICH Meet the pleasure maker We get together with CAN BE USED TO PURCHASE WINES. who adores the Loire Purchasing Director Simon PRICES QUOTED ARE LIST BOTTLE Jerrome to find out what’s PRICE. THESE ARE CORRECT AT TIME OF PRINT BUT MAY BE SUBJECT TO happening over the Channel CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. 18 24 Starter for 10 16 Our very own David Kelly Lifetime 28 serves up delightful tales Achievement Award Wine faults, the facts Wine training, top tips Ensure the wine you serve along with his top 10 Take a journey through the life of Robert Mondavi Our Wine Development is in the best possible Specialists give us their condition, and know what top tips to keep your staff could be spoiling your wine. 30 at the top of their game Vidal Estate 34 We catch up with head Cellar Door wine maker Hugh Crichton We meet new wine maker from one of the oldest from Kleine Zalze, Alistair in Hawkes Bay Rimmer

Matthew Clark | Vin | 1 hat’s not to like? A classic wine region with immense history Wproducing hand crafted wines made beside the River Ebro for 1000 ‘s of years – probably. Ah and the Tapas run – when you first find the top of the ‘Calle Laurel’ in the oldest part of Logrono town, it is like you have just gate crashed the most amazing outdoor party. Then you notice the bars, one, two, three, four, and then several more masked by the throng. It was a wet Wednesday evening in September – people were standing in the narrow street laughing, eating and drinking. As we threaded our way to a corner I noticed that the bars were full, some more full than others apparently ntil a recent visit to a according to their Tapas speciality or reputation El StoryCamino by or size – cavernous most are not. This adds Brian Meacher Uthe Don Jacobo hugely to the old streets charm. The outdoor in Navarette a small village socialising seemed to be part queue, part slow shuffle on towards the next bite and glass of in Rioja Alta just outside the wine. I loved it, the corner that I assumed was regional capital Logrono, the end of the street merely led onto an even longer stretch with even more tapas bars. my personal experience of a ‘Pilgrimage’ – meant my was expertly steered by my hosts, Javier Martinez and Andrea Stehle from Don own journey down to Spain IJacobo Winery who explained that there is via Stanstead airport and nowhere else like it in the world. They travel a lot and I’m inclined to take their word for it Bilbao and the short drive at this point. I’ve counted 8 bars so far, and down to one of my favourite we’ve only been into two. We have some serious work to do. We head on again after wine regions. Since my last greeting some Dutch importers who were visit a few years ago I hold also paying homage to this unique opportunity. I didn’t lose count of the prospect of a chance to the bars exactly, but I probably forgot to keep do the famous ‘Tapas Run’ in count after visiting about 7, or possibly 9. So a mental note of the total number of bars in the Logrono in some reverence. Calle Laurel was never on the cards. I checked afterwards it’s around 50! What a cracking start to my visit.

‘Camino de Santiago’ Pilgrims Way

Ponferrada Santiago de Leon Compostela

Logrono Astorga

Burgos Don Jacobo Winery

La Rioja region vineyard

Ebro River and the old town of Miravet 2 | Matthew Clark | Vini was at the Don Jacobo winery early the next morning, expertly covering my La Rioja region near Logrono Iparacetamol top ups and happily enthusing to some Matthew Clark customers visiting from the UK.

fter a tour of the barrel cellar – a truly wonderful sight, we walked blinking out Atowards the old winery and the ready to harvest vineyards of beyond (I wrongly assume another grape squeeze and bitter sweet bite to check on progress is coming next), actually we strolled along a dirt ooking at a map of European track curiously marked with Scallop shells at Pilgrimage routes since, Rioja sits intervals and arrived at some ruins – a 12th in very good company as most century pilgrims resting place. I was curious L routes take in wine growing areas such about these and the steady stream of walkers as Bordeaux, Alsace, Burgundy and the heading West. Standing in the ruins we thus Rhone. I can only assume that these received a history lesson from my host and regional wine names and reputations wine maker at Don Jacobo, Javier. travelled far and wide at least in part Logrono street cafe always knew that Rioja was special in the thanks to the hundreds of thousands of hearts of wine lovers, that its wines had pilgrims who have travelled to Santiago de Ibeen renowned for centuries and that for Compostela over many centuries. a very long time wine lists in the UK often or K so I did walk a part of St. James usually list something from the region. I even way, but I got there with much help understand that the regulations here are among from Easyjet and Avis. (Unlike so very the strictest of any wine producing region but it O many other determined souls I’d seen walking transpires that I had a knowledge gap! through the hills in my few days there.) note or two from my history lesson; ooking forward to my trip, I expected to the Scallop shells I’d seen on the get an induction into the history of the side of the track mark an ancient A Don Jacobo Winery, it’s wonderfully pilgrimage route. This is long and one of a L traditional wines and long heritage along with handful of routes originating in differing parts the chance to taste a few killer wine and food of Northern Europe. The stretch of the combinations but I learned so much more Camino travelling through Rioja is known including a whole new awareness of the Puente da Piedra over the Ebro, Logrono as ‘Camino Frances’ or the French Way and religious history behind one of Europe’s classic runs right next to the Don Jacobo winery wine regions, the confidently understated and dissects its vineyards. The winery itself is region of Rioja. The Spanish call the Milky Way named after the generic term for the pilgrimage Galaxy ‘El Camino’, they say it contains as route of the Ruta Jacobea – the route is often many stars as there have been pilgrims… translated as St. James’ Way in English as it leads to this particular Apostle’s final resting place in Santiago de Compostela in the North Western tip of Spain, hundreds of miles or a very long walk away.

Roncevaux

Puente la Reina

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Sweet wines Chalk Hill By Laurie Davis The additions we have made to the range The ultimate social experiment, 6 this year has taken it to another level, the different winemakers (3 male, 3 female We have new additions to varying different styles, regions and price from different regions), 1 grape – our range throughout the points make this a very exciting sector. Shiraz, 36 rows of vines which each winemaker getting alternate rows with 01 28908 Willi Opitz year, but this is the time total control left to the winemaker on Beerenauslese, Burgenland £19.43 we pull them all together all aspects (harvest, fermentation, ) and showcase them to our 02 28902 Willi Opitz Opitz One The characteristics and personality you Schilfwein, Burgenland £26.83 discover and taste within each wine show customers with a range of the influence a winemaker has on the end 03 28898 Willi Opitz Goldackerl liquid effortlessly. events across the country, -Scheurebe and the release of our new Beerenauslese, Burgenland £15.79 10 28549 Alpha Crucis Winemakers’ Series from Chalk Hill Wines, Mclaren 04 wine list! I’d love to put every 28899 Willi Opitz Goldackerl Vale £230.88 (Case of 6) single one of our 181 new Welschriesling-Scheurebe Trockenbeerenauslese, Burgenland Bay of Fires wines on this page, but I’m £25.48 The Tasmanian highly acclaimed wines making a return to the UK. Cool climate told I need to keep it short 05 28907 Willi Opitz Welschriesling wines from Australia with their very own and sweet… so with that in Eiswein, Burgenland £21.85 personality. 06 mind, here’s a few that really 28900 Willi Opitz Muskat Ottonel 11 29190 Bay of Fires £11.0 5 Schilfwein, Burgenland £29.51 stand out for me… 12 29191 Bay of Fires 07 29243 Château de Fesles £10.46 Bonnezeaux £25.12 13 29187 Bay of Fires Pinot Noir £11.0 6 08 29128 Béres Aszú 5 Puttonyos, Hungary £28.61 09 29099 Villa Maria Reserve Noble Riesling Botrytis Selection, Marlborough £16.95 *Bottle list price 4 | Matthew Clark | Vini la maison

duOoh la la... The French market vin always provides such a vast array of styles, flavours and characters... Delve into the , uncover the Rhône and feast upon some delights from over the Channel.

Matthew Clark | Vini | 5 la maison du vin

With a certain way of doing things, we thought we'd get to grips with the French market a little better with our Wine Purchasing Director, Simon Jerrome and find out what's happening in the world of , and what the future may hold for this old world wonder…

Emmy Webster

6 | Matthew Clark | Vini EW: Where would you say the he put grape varieties on the labels it was we will continue to look for gems to try to French Wine market is positioned cutting edge in France and he was putting get people to buy back in to Bordeaux and within the wider world of wine? it up against the new world, He’d seen what not be so worried about writing off had happened in Australia and persuaded the that someone has told them is terrible and SJ: I think that French wine is seen by a lot French to change their ways and put the grape overpriced as that is not always the case of retailers and consumers as the premium varieties on the labels. I think Vin de France is end of the wine trade and they base this on interesting because first of all the French were EW: What other challenges are Bordeaux, Burgundy and other such things. using it as an opportunity to push the price up facing the French market? France has lost quite a lot of its entry level by saying ‘we are now Taking better quality SJ: The core of the French business is over the years due to price and wines, from quality regions and blending them Languedoc-Roussion region. There are some style to Italy and Spain. We don’t see French but now they see what they are getting is a fantastic wines coming out of the region and house wines as often as we used to except more commercial blend but also they are able they just need to try to manage the pricing in places such as Brasserie Blanc which is to manage the pricing much better. and have a consistent pricing policy over a French dominated. What we are trying to number of years to build the brands. The New do is break down some of those barriers to France is a big country and every year we World are able to do this, but due to French demonstrate that there are affordable wines seem to have problems with the weather in weather conditions and demands from Asia in France and right through the on-trade price 1 or 2 areas of France with means there is and America, the price goes up and down so scale. an issue with volume and quality so they are able to use other areas of France that allow we need to try to level that out if we are to EW: Do you think that French them to use wine where there is more of it continue to use that area as a source of really wine can be seen as confusing by and better quality. I believe the consumer, good quality single wines and blends the consumer? at the end of the day, doesn’t really mind like Rare Vineyards and La Campagne. where it comes from in France. It say Vin de SJ: If you look at wines from the New World France so they know it’s from France and it in particular, it says what the grape variety is has the grape variety on the label, so it does on the label and it’s very clear and easy to "People are still everything it needs to do. understand. Grape varieties are one of the ways that people buy wine, in a lot of cases, EW: This is a huge shift for buying into France the AOC system in France doesn’t allow France from where they were for grape varieties to be put on the label so before and positioning themselves in a good way it makes it very difficult for consumers to for the future. understand what they are. there are still lots EW: Are any regions in France EW: What advice might you give surprising you at the moment? to outlets to try to guide their of new wines and customers to the wines where the SJ: Burgundy is quite surprising, all the talk grape variety is not obvious? is of all small harvests and increasing prices, producers coming but some of the more commercially minded SJ: I think they need to stick to some of the producers like Louis Jadot are looking at out of all the areas" classics, for example , Cotes Du ways they can come up with wines and use EW: Something that came up at Rhône and Châteauneuf-du-Pape, these are the system of blending different grapes from names that people recognise, but make them the France summit was the use Burgundy to produce more price friendly of ‘’, it was suggested that approachable. Think about cash margins wines for those customers who want to have and within these areas find interesting wines a Burgundy on their list but don’t have the they need to take cues from the and making sure the wines they buy are customer base to buy in to the higher end. new world to try to engage with approachable and fruit driven so the customer You can change your list around to ensure we consumers, but is that not what can really enjoy them. have more Burgundy at affordable prices. makes French wine French? EW:Having staff that are trained EW: The Gorgeous Kitchen has SJ: They’re right in some respects, but the to recommend and pair wines white Burgundy by the glass UK trade were just as bad in terms of making with food helps? which is not something you see France a mystery so the oiks wouldn’t get involved in it and there was some mystery SJ: Yes, of course. Consumers are very open very often, to be able to offer that. there so they could manipulate the prices. to recommendations. Staff are key here. SJ: Yeah, it is just more choice, which is I think there is a great deal of interest EW: Earlier in the year at the a good thing. What worries me is Chablis in it from customers, it is the way it is Harpers Summit, you said that is still in short supply and expensive, but communicated as people want to understand Vin de France is the most exciting customers still want it and it is becoming and France is a great example of a great place thing since Robert Skalli put grape difficult to find enough Chablis to supply all to understand what makes a wine taste like variants on the labels, can you of our customers. I think Bordeaux is good, it does and part of that is the soil its grown in explain why Vin de France is so they suffer also for being very guided by the and the aspect of the land. I think what they good for the on trade. press and Parker points but there are lots and have to do is stop banging on about Terroir in lots of smaller producers and petit château the way they do now and make it much more SJ: I think Robert Skalli changed the face that are producing some really good wines approachable and easy to understand rather of Vin de Pays as it was at the time, when in not so good years at affordable prices, so than making it some kind of mystery.

Matthew Clark | Vini | 7 la maison du vin

"...what France is doing which is good is starting to listen to the buyers and consumers about what the consumers want and how much they want to pay for it..." EW: We get it across all different wines, particularly from Europe to take Sauvignon Blanc. There seems to be and categories, people are looking for advantage of that, I think the New World has whether that’s just a trade thing, that people the story, history and provenance some way to go yet because of the way they are tiring of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc behind things, whether its gins, price them and the style but France, with the and that very upfront style but they still love grape varieties, has the opportunity to be Sauvignon Blanc, it’s the countries favourite vodkas or beers so you would able to produce Prosecco style wines and think that is what the consumer is grape variety and they have been producing we’ve done that with a Blancs des Blancs it in France for years so we will certainly be demanding so if they can that we produce for Brasserie Blanc. I think expanding our range of affordable range of talk about it in a way that is what France is doing which is good is starting sauvignon from the Loire which is the home of engaging, they must have an to listen to the buyers and consumers about Sauvignon Blanc in France. There are some advantage there? what the consumers want and how much they really great wines from Haut-Poitou, Touraine want to pay for it and I think that’s going to SJ: Yes, some of the best talks I’ve heard on and we are seeing these becoming more be the best growth in France in the coming affordable and more food friendly styles than terroir is when the speaker has a jar of the year. They have to start understanding it soil and says ‘here is the soil, you can touch the New Zealand wines. I think once people not just banging on about terroir, it is also taste French Sauvignon they will be converted it, smell it, this is how it effects the wine, and understanding what the consumer wants, into buying it as so far the only ones they have this is the soil from down the road, see the not only to hear, but to drink, see in terms really seen are expensive in terms of wines difference’. It’s just a question of showing of packaging and also the price point that like Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume which don’t people exactly what’s going on. They’re quite they are prepared to buy it at. We’ve got to necessarily suit everyone’s pocket. happy to take it in as long as you don’t make continue to manage the expectations of the it in to some sort of poncey wine talk that producers to get that balance right. EW: Do you have a everyone thinks is a load of @$%^! EW: Picpoul has become huge and favourite region in France EW: Are we seeing people is the trendy wine that everyone or a favourite wine? moving away from certain wines is wanting, can you see any other SJ: I don’t really have a favourite wine, I don’t or regions? growth varieties like that or do think. If I had to have a favourite region it SJ: No, I don’t think so. People are still buying you think it will continue to grow? would probably be the Loire because I think you get such a great range of wines, both into France in a good way, there are still lots of SJ: We need to be careful I think, we spot sparkling dry whites, sweet whites and reds. new wines and producers coming out of all the a trend and then try to find the next one, The Loire has a great opportunity with some areas, I think is also coming back, but lets continue to work on Picpoul. I think we forget Champagne is in France sometimes there’s great opportunities and different styles of the dessert wines they do, we are taking on and talk about it like it’s a separate thing, of Picpoul and you can see that in the two we some Bonnezeaux this year which is fantastic. people are coming back to French Sparkling list in the Domaine St Annes which is a much It’s a which is wine and there will be some great new French drier, lighter style and Jean Luc Colombo lovely. Also, what France does better than Sparkling wines coming in to our range next which is a spicier style which is fantastic anywhere else in the world, is blend wines year which offer great value for money and a with food. We need to explore Picpoul and and I think Bordeaux is a fantastic example great style which is different to Prosecco. see what other opportunities there are and I of where you can take two, three, four grape EW: What’s the next big thing to think it will continue to get better. Also, the varieties and turn them in to a really fantastic wine, you see it in reds and whites also with come out of France in 2015? other opportunities are to look at grapes like from Alsace and those grape Sauvignon-Semillion and I think there are SJ: I think Sparkling is something we are varieties which are really consumer friendly some fantastic wines coming from there. Their going to be looking at as we are seeing and it’s just a question of getting consumers take on Sauvignon with Semillion is brilliant growing by about 36% in our to understand that it’s not all sweet, there are and I think that probably where we will find business driven by Prosecco and , there some dry styles, that’s where we are going some people move into, we’ve just got to find must be an opportunity for other sparkling to see more wines come through as well as some affordable wines.

8 | Matthew Clark | Vini Mon français preferé By Simon Jerrome

Trying to narrow my favourites from our French range to just ten was tricky, with such a vast range and so many wonderful producers across the regions… this is definitely not exhaustive but a few which stand out to me…

Château Lamothe-Bouscaut Blanc, Pessac-Léognan 1 25886 £20.26

Château Thénac Rouge, Côtes de Bergerac 27165 £17.85 2

Cornas, La Louvée, Jean-Luc Colombo 3 24468 £60.63

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, Clos de L'Oratoire des Papes, Ogier 27189 £24.42 4

Piper-Heidsieck Rare Brut 5 21638 £136.96

Cyprès de Climens, Barsac, Grand Vin de 28364 £17.99 6

Son Excellence Sauvignon Blanc, Côtes de Gascogne 7 27276 £6.85

Picpoul de Pinet, Les Girelles, Jean-Luc Colombo 28224 £9.23 8

Château d'Issan, 3ème Cru Classé Margaux 9 29270 £75.5

Château de Fesles Bonnezeau 29243 £27.59 10 *Bottle list price

Matthew Clark | Vini | 9 la maison du vin

Façonneur

deMost wine lovers, adoreplaisir the Loire Valley region in France. You can get every type of wine from sparkling to bone dry, sweet white, dry rose, sweet rose, red and dessert wine. So much so, you might ask if you ever need to look elsewhere for wine again. Pierre Jean from Sauvion is a firm believer that there is nowhere better and he’ll do his best to convince you he’s right…

How did your family start out in the wine trade? My family started in the wine trade in 1935. My Great Grandfather was a pork negociant selling pork to butchers and restaurants. When you live in a wine area business has to be done around a glass of wine to close the deal. He was drinking seven glasses of to sell one pig and he was selling 20 pigs a day so you can see he was a massive Muscadet drinker. In the end he decided to purchase Château du Cléray and became his first client! I am the fourth generation of wine maker.

10 | Matthew Clark | Vini Why ? I am a lucky man. I never had to ask myself what vocation I would have: formula one driver, lawyer, fireman… NO, I always knew I would be in the wine trade, drinking, making and selling. I did not know exactly but in the wine trade for sure. When I was 3 years of age I fell into a tank full of Muscadet. In fact one of the characteristics of our beautiful vineyard is: the tanks are underground for the "sur lie" elevage. We need to keep the wine on lees until the 1st of March following the harvest. So our ancestor built the tanks underground in order to keep the wine at the same temperature which is the best way for aging the wine. So in the Muscadet region when you are in the winery you walk on the wine. On this particular day I walked inside the winery to get a glass of must from the press and I fell inside the open tank. By chance my father scooped me up, but since this time I have more Muscadet in my vein than blood. You work with a number of wineries across the Loire Valley, apart from grape variety, how do they differ? What's your favourite grape variety to work with? This region has more than 50 AOP. All different but they all belong to The heart will speak first and I will say the grape the same family: The Loire Valley. You will find everything you need, variety for the Muscadet, because it is a grape which expresses the dry rose, off dry rose, , , sweet, medium sweet, area where it is growing. It is respectful of the terroir, it does have a lot sparkling. You also have a lot of AOP gathered together in four distinct of aromas in a smaller quantity compared to Sauvignon for example but areas: Nantes, Anjou-Saumur, Touraine and the Centre. Even if the it gives the wine a much better complexity. Loire give us the same style: fresh, fruity, friendly, well balanced, And to drink? each area has its own specificity: Muscadet with the specific age on lies process at Château du Cléray Muscadet Sevre et Maine sur lie. That is difficult to answer, it is like choosing between your children! I Anjou-Saumur where you’ll find the best dessert wine Château de do not have the answer for that, I think it really depends when, where, Fesles Bonnezeaux, this is the other jewel of the Loire, this estate is in and with who. As an example, a glass of Muscadet for an aperitif on a category of its own. The other expression of Chenin is in Touraine, a terrace in the middle of summer, or a glass of Château de Fesles known as and grown on calcerous soil and at Domaine du Bonnezeaux during a cold and snowy December afternoon. There is a Vieux Vauvert we produce a medium dry Chenin Blanc. This "off dry Loire wine to share for every moment. style" is a signature of the Loire for both white and rose. What are your predictions for the future Our location, in the northern part of France, is a major factor in of wine from the Loire Valley? producing this style of wine. We’ve got this cool weather which brings a I am sure the Loire wines are the wines of the future and it has already freshness to the wine and thanks to that we could play with the natural started. People are bored with big oaky, creamy over the top wine with residual sugar from the berry and the acidity. 15% of alcohol. They want something more drinkable, more elegant, To finish, the Centre, where you have the best expression of the lovely with finesse and fresh fruit and this is the definition of the Loire wine. Sauvignon Blanc grape, his birthplace. I am working to extract the People want to drink a bottle without being bothered by the alcohol quintessence of the couple grape/terroir in each region. again that is the definition of the Loire wine. Also there is more and What's your philosophy when making a wine? more a trend for cooking, just have a look on TV there are now thousands of "cooking shows", "being a great chef", First of all in my family we are not wine makers but "pleasure makers", "healthy food"… and the best companions for food are we want to give pleasure to everybody who drinks a Sauvion Loire Loire wines thanks to the natural balance and acidity. wine. Then, what is wine making? It is trying to be an ambassador of the terroir, an ambassador of what mother nature gives us. A Muscadet needs to look like a Muscadet, an Anjou rouge needs to look like an We’ve extended our Loire range to Anjou rouge and so on. At the same time trying to demystify the world include some of these stunning examples of wine, because for me wine it is just a question of pleasure and a from Pierre Jean, which will be launched good bottle of wine is an empty bottle the rest is history and bla bla bla. at our London tasting on the 3rd March. How was the 2014 ? 2014 start as great vintage then turned to a challenging vintage during August when we had a month of rain and finally thanks to an incredible and unpredictable September and October we ended with an amazing vintage. The quantity is not there unfortunately but quality speaking it’s rich well-balanced, fresh and ripe.

Matthew Clark | Vini | 11 la maison du vin

Wow, that sounds fantastic! I bet the whole winery comes alive with that many people there. So, after that…what about the pruning and planting… On the wire... what’s happening amongst the vines? January is for pruning, getting rid of the dead vines and planting. We’re actually experimenting with a new style of pruning which we with Laure started last year, we have a pruning expert who comes to help us and we did some tests on the new plots which have been successful, so we’ll continue to do more of it this year. Columbo There are two types of traditional planting in the Rhone valley, Emmy Webster one which is when the vine is on a stick which is more common in Burgundy and Bordeaux. The other is on the trellis with wire works. With the grapes picked and pressed, there is a We’ve been experimenting with a mixture of the two so it’s like a little bit of breathing space during the winter goblet but a flat goblet so you can still put it on the trellis but keep the months for the team at Jean-Luc Columbo same old style of pruning. Pruning is a special part of the process winery…so I had a quick catch up with Laure and very important to the end product, so it’s key we keep looking at these techniques and making sure we’re getting the best from our Columbo to find out what’s happening in Cornas vines. Obviously because it’s a new style and way of working it’s so down in the Rhône Valley, here’s what she said… important for us to get it right, we’re still experimenting so it’s harder. How are you Laure? It’s great to see you’re still moving forward and continuing to develop your ways of working. Everything is in the barrel, harvest is done! I’m happy and relaxed. One final question…what’s on the cards for How was the 2014 harvest? JLC in 2015? Harvest was intense! We were quite lucky weather wise, summer Well for us, something we’ve been working towards over the past was cool but not very wet so we had a long maturation period, which 3 years is our Ecocert organic certification for our vineyards. We’re is good because you never know how September will go. However, passionate about the environment and the terroir which our wines the rain held off and it was sunny and we got the whites, which were are crafted from. It’s great we can experiment and change the way great, picked before the hail storms came. we’ve been working in order to pass sustainable methods down through generations. Some of the things we’ve worked on are: Then the day before we harvested the red, the hail hit and we were Mulching to promote microbial life in the soil and reduce erosion, all completely stressed out. Fortunately, the reds were already ripe ploughing with horses and hoeing by hand on the steep slopes, and ready to be harvested so we doubled the team and within 10 zero irrigation, biodiversity plantings and of course minimal use of days we had everything picked. Normally it takes over a month, so phytosanitary products such as copper and sulphur. It’s great to be that was intense for us. working in this way, going back to basics for a better end result. Obviously, if the hail had hit the whites it would have been a huge problem with oxidisation, but for the reds it just crushed a few of Thanks Laure…See you in March for our the grapes, so we put them directly in the tank, so it was like natural London Wine Event at Tobacco Dock! crushing. The colours were amazing because of this! We’re very lucky because if it had happened a few weeks before it would have been a huge problem and we would have had to wait for the fruit to ripen which could have led to rot. It was busy in the cellar after that! What happens after harvest? Do you all have a good rest? So, fortunately, everything worked out okay. Well, nearly! As a family, we’re very passionate about food and wine. We make wine for food, not to be served alone and we believe that the food and wine industries should work together more in the future. Coming from a very foody background (My father’s mother was a great chef in Marseille), our philosophy shapes not only how we make our wines but inspires us to work and celebrate with the culinary community. In November, we host ‘Les Automnales de Colombo’ which we started 5 years ago and is now well known in the French gastronomic calendar. Each year we chose a new region, for 2014, it was Paris. We had 50 chefs from Paris, big names and we have a huge tipi at the winery which is cool. On the last day, we award ‘Le Trophée Colombo de Goût’ which is a prize for the best young , judged by a panel of chefs, winemakers and other . We have over 1000 people arriving during the weekend.

12 | Matthew Clark | Vini Something A Bit Different by Siobhan Irons 01 24513 Pongrácz Brut, £11.35 If you’re bored of Prosecco but fancy a drop of classy fizz without the Champagne price tag then this is for you. Made using the (known as Cap Classique in South Africa) and a blend of Pinot Noir and just like Champagne, this is aged for at least two years on its lees for extra complexity. There is a lovely biscuity nose here with a crisp green apple finish that keeps me going back for more.

02 22656 Veramonte Primus, £11.35 01 02 Steak is tremendously popular at the minute so you might be ask, what is the best wine to accompany it? The Primus is Veramonte’s answer to Argentina’s and what a competitor! Made predominantly from Carmenere with just a little and grown in the Colchagua Valley, this wine is packed full of rich fruit and just enough spice from 12 months in French and American oak to make it feel decadent without overdoing it.

03 28340 Fritz’s Riesling, £10.00 03 There are so many things to love about this wine! If you’re feeling guilty about over-indulging during December then look no further - this wine is a refreshingly moderate 11.5% ABV and has a light little spritz on the palate making it zesty and reviving. The grapes come from a special part of the Rheinhessen called ‘Roter Hang’ meaning red hill (the name comes from the red slate soil on which the vines are planted). Whatever you do, don’t overlook this delicious German Riesling. 04 27944 Esporao Reserva Tinto, £16.77 At Esporao the wine making is overseen by the well- 04 respected and highly acclaimed David Baverstock who has been a firm fixture on the scene since the early 1980’s. Sustainability and biodiversity are the focus here with a plan to adapt all agricultural activity to organic methods over the next four years. Aged for 12 months in French and American oak barriques, the Reserva is made from Aragonez, Trincadeira, Cabernet Sauvignon and Alicante Bouchet, and has intense spicy notes, damsons and cranberries with firm but ripe tannins and a long elegant finish. 05 05 28218 Vina Somoza Seleccion Godello, £14.97

Godello is native to North West Spain and Northern Portugal but also known as Verdello in other parts of Northern Galicia. This very fine example was recently voted one of the Top 100 wines from Spain at the 2014 Awards. Oak cask fermentation and lees ageing lifts this Godello to a whole new level of deliciousness; richly textured on the palate with subtle notes of citrus, honeysuckle and pineapple and culminating in a crisp dry finish, if you’re a white Burgundy fan, you have to try this. *Bottle list price

Matthew Clark | Vini | 13 History The Harrogate Royal Baths have long been a magnet for the rich and famous. In Victorian times, royalty would amuse themselves by racing their bathchairs through the Harrogate streets towards the Baths and Princess Alix of Hesse and her sister, Princess Victoria of Battenburg, were regular visitors. Cabinet meetings were sometimes held in the Pump Room with the esteemed enjoying a massage soon after. The Royal Baths have been the jewel in the spa’s architectural crown but once the rich and famous stopped coming to the spa for treatment, years of neglect and dereliction followed. Now the Royal Baths is once more a centre of excellence – only The Royal Baths in a very different form. Chinese Restaurant Today the Royal Baths, which originally opened in 1897, is enjoying a renaissance with the extended and Champagne Bar, Turkish Baths and Health Spa and the £1.5m restoration of the Grand Pump Room into a Harrogate Chinese restaurant. The Pump Room of the Royal Baths was originally used to dispense the famous mineral waters, but the real glory of the 1897 building was the soaring dome. And it was this magnificent architectural feature that meant love at first sight for the site’s restaurateur Hak Ng.

By Rachel Love

14 | Matthew Clark | Vini The Restoration Today It all started with the dome…Back in 2005 when It is a beautiful restaurant with a relaxed and Hak and his wife Monica came to Harrogate to friendly atmosphere which completely exceeds view the building, empty for many years, and as expectations. Everyone that walks into the soon as they walked in and looked up and saw restaurant looks up and sees the dome and the dome, they knew they wanted it and spotted a they just say WOW! Matthew Clark have been gap in the market for a luxury Chinese restaurant. working closely with the Royal Baths for just Hak says ‘The only reason I’m here is because of over a year. Getting the wine list right was the dome. Some people win the lottery, I’ve won extremely important. Hak’s enthusiasm for wine this. It’s an absolute dream to be the care taker of and Champagne and desire to push boundaries this magnificent piece of British history. meant that we could have fun with the wine list. Together with Hak and Monica, we have created Hak spent his time in China sourcing traditional an extensive, well balanced 120 bin wine list furniture, crockery and wood carvings and six including 40 , which would sit well in containers of furniture were imported including any decent wine and Champagne bar anywhere a 16-person, five metre long table, which takes in the world. pride of place in the private dining area. It took two and half years and £1.5m to complete the Design Studio have assisted in bringing the wine refurbishment due of its listed building status with list to life. It is colourful, quirky, visually appealing various objections and obstacles encountered and arranged by style expression. This helps the along the way. Meticulous restoration work was customer choose a suitable wine, it also helps done on the dome, the marble memorial plaque the staff recommend wines to match certain and the Harrogate Coat of Arms. The building dishes on the menu. Hak is extremely proud of Interview with Hak has been restored with incredible precision and the wine list and finds it very rewarding when he What is your favourite dish? sympathy to the original features. The Bath’s is complemented on the selection which include I have 3, Sweet and Sour Pork, Beef with Ginger Moorish design with great Islamic arches and wines from around the world. Classic regions and and Spring Onions and Sinapore noodles. I order screens, walls of vibrant glazed brickwork, ornate grape varieties intermingled with new exciting these 3 dishes everywhere I go. I ordered them cornicing, painted ceilings and marble floors all upcoming from emerging regions. Hak on a recent trip to Taiwan, Macau, and China. The add to its historic fantasy qualities. and Monica enjoy the MC events and Royal Baths is still the best place I have had them! love discovering new wines to put on the list. They The project was completed over time and over were inspired by a recent trip to Burgundy and What is your favourite wine on the wine list? budget. Then the recession hit and everyone have a Louis Jadot special feature page. The Federalist . thought it would close within a few months! The restaurant survived with Hak and Monica’s A Verre de Vin system was installed so they Best food and wine match? hard work, determination and vision through this were able to offer a wider selection of wines by I don’t mind, as long as I have good company to difficult trading period and it is now absolutely the glass, including some premium wines and share them with. thriving. The Royal Baths won a prestigious Champagnes. The 25 wines by the glass offering When did you discover your love of wine? restoration award in 2009, beating off competition changes regularly to keep it fresh. Right now you Moving to Harrogate and opening the Royal Baths from Betty’s Tea Rooms and Rudding Park. Hak can get Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru and Beaune Chinese Restaurant. My knowledge and passion also takes great pride in a letter he has received 1er Cru from Louis Jadot and Taittinger Comtes for wine has improved through the restaurant. from Clarendon House saying that Prince Charles de Champagne all under £20 a glass! was delighted with the restoration. Favourite Restaurant? An ‘epicureans dream’ is how this Chinese The Colony in Mayfair. The food, service and restaurant has been described by one food attention to detail is impeccable. magazine. Everything from the hand painted wash bowls in the toilets to the imported finest quality furniture has be meticulously hand picked to make The Royal Baths the very best restaurant it can be. The chefs have come from the very best restaurants around the world to bring you the delights of the East. They serve traditional food as well as cuisine you may not have seen before. The Royal Baths will astound both your eyes and your taste buds! An absolute must visit if you are visiting Yorkshire! *Bottle list price

Matthew Clark | Vini | 15 Wine Oxidised Wine …aka maderised wine

What it is: Chemical change caused by too much oxygen exposure. Rusted metal is Faults oxidized… it’s that same process but in your wine. Oxidization is the most common and can occur throughout the wine making process Siobhan and after bottling. Irons the facts How you can tell: Oxidized wines lose their brightness, There are some faults you can’t fix, but there both in colour and in flavor. Bright reds are some steps you can take to ensure the wine turn to brick colour or brownish, and you serve to your customers is in the best possible fresh tastes develop drier, more bitter condition, here are my top three tips. characteristics. White wines are much more susceptible to oxidisation than Heat – Temperature is the most serious hazard reds, because reds’ higher tannin levels for wine storage. It goes without saying that the act as a buffer. If you really want to see what this looks like: open a new bottle, whites are likely to be in the fridge, so you don’t pour a glass and save that bottle for need to worry about them so much, but don’t keep about a week. Congrats, your bottle reds under the bar spotlights. Ideal storage is ruined. Drink some and mentally temperature is 10-15 degrees but up to 20 won’t compare it to that first glass you had. do it much harm. Consistency is key. Can I fix it? Long term storage – wherever possible lay closure No, but you can prolong the shelf life of opened wine by using a wine wines flat, this keeps the cork moist and prevents it preserving tool. Keeping all wine, drying out and letting oxygen into your wine. closed or open away from direct heat and bright light also helps. Open bottles – use a vacu pump whenever possible. An open bottle can start to oxidise in less than six hours, so at the end of the night use the vacu pump as stored properly the wine can last for Brettanomyces up to a week and your customers will have …aka Brett a better experience. What it is: Brettanomyces is a wild spoilage yeast More specific issues can often known in the wine trade as Brett. A be the following: bone of contention in the trade as to whether or not it is acceptable at all. Is it ‘le gout de terroir’, or an acceptable level of tolerance or a fault?

How you can tell: It’s all in the aromas: farmyard, dung, leather, saddle, sweaty saddle, ham, bacon, elastoplasts, kidney, cheese, horse, animal, mousey !!!

Can I fix it? No, though levels tend to vary and some people are more sensitive to it than others.

16 | Matthew Clark | Vini Volatile Acidity Sulphur Compounds Heat Damage …aka VA (or vinegar) …aka Reduction …aka cooked wine

What it is: What it is: What it is: During fermentation, activity by yeast Sulphur in small amounts is naturally Wine ruined by exposure to too much cells naturally produce a small amount present in all wine and sulphur dioxide is heat. Imagine a pallet of wine cases of acetic acid. If however the wine is a common additive used throughout the cooking in the sun in the parking lot exposed to oxygen via open / traditional process primarily to stop behind a wine store in Phoenix, AZ. fermentation, then acetobacter bacteria oxidation but also as an anti-microbial will convert the ethanol (alcohol) into agent to prevent other wine faults found How you can tell: acetic acid. in this article (ironically). Sometimes The wine smells jammy: sort of sweet, things can go wrong in its deployment but processed. Heat damage often How you can tell: though, and high sulphur levels are compromises the seal of the bottle (the Very low levels of this do not affect pretty easy to notice. expansion from the heated wine pushes the taste adversely but increasing the cork out) so it can be accompanied concentration will leave an undesirable, How you can tell: by oxidisation. ‘vinegar‘ flavour varying from pickled There are four primary sulphur onion to nail varnish, polish or glue. compounds that can give your wine Can I fix it? Wines made in a traditional way are some funk, but they all manifest No, but storing your wine at a constant more susceptible to VA and in some fine themselves in different flavors and 12 degrees can prevent it. wines it is often said to lift the flavour smells. In its purest form think struck not impair it. match, which is a pleasant aroma to some, but if you notice rotten egg, fart, Can I fix it? burnt rubber or skunk in your wine, you Secondary Fermentation No. probably have a sulfur problem. …unintentional, not Champagne!

Can I fix it? What it is: The offending flavor can often be Tiny bubbles in your wine where there 2,4,6-Trichloroanisole (TCA) weakened through decanting or shouldn’t be any, especially in an old …aka cork taint/corked wine aeration. bottle of red wine. This usually happens when the residual sugar in the bottled What it is: wine feeds on some yeast that wasn’t A chemical contaminant that finds its filtered out before bottling. way into your bottle during production or UV Light Damage storage usually from the cork closure. …aka lightstrike How you can tell: But TCA can affect all surfaces from Look for the bubbles or listen for the oak barrels to processing lines at the What it is: psssst on opening. There can also be winery which occasionally leads to entire Damage caused by exposure to a bit of a zippy flavor. Not all secondary batches, rather than single bottles, excessive UV radiation, most commonly fermentation is an accident though. being ruined. from storing wine in the sun or near a Some winemakers will use it to add window. a little kick to their wines, and some How you can tell: styles are naturally frizzante such as Dank odour and taste like wet How you can tell: vinho verde or some gruner veltliners. It newspaper, mouldy basement or smelly Lightstrike is most common in delicate can also result in a visible yeast haze or dog. Cork taint rates have been dropping white wines like Champagne, , deposit in the bottle. since stricter quality controls have been and Chenin Blanc, or wine in a clear implemented and it is estimated that TCA bottle. It can make the wine taste like a Can I fix it? now affects less than 5% of wine. wet sweater. No, but do some research into the style to make sure it is not supposed Can I fix it? Can I fix it? to be there. No, though Andrew Waterhouse, No, but you can store your wine out of professor of at the UC direct sunlight. The colored glass of Davis, claims you can pour the wine into wine bottles is supposed to mitigate a bowl with a sheet of food wrap. The lightstrike. TCA will be attracted to the polyethylene and pulled from your wine, probably not a technique to attempt table side!

Matthew Clark | Vini | 17 Starter for David Kelly Wine Development Specialist

Picture the scene, if you will: Wood was 18 (probably lower, actually), and thought I’d be in fifteen years’ time, Street, Liverpool city centre, 10pm on my older brother’s driving licence was I would have grandiosely suggested Thursday 19th July 2001. I’d received my my faithful fake ID. It was my key to as several things – high-flying solicitor; GCSE results that day, and had come many two-for-one Blue WKDs as my Olympic medal-winning triple-jumper; into town with some chums to celebrate £20 spending money would permit (or guitar maestro of international acclaim; picking up decent grades and the my digestive system could handle). maybe all of the above? But I can forthcoming move up into sixth form. I was feeling fantastic. Despite my eye- categorically state that the words ‘Wine watering acne and unfortunate dental We’d just left Bar CaVa, where we’d Development Specialist’ would not have apparatus, my hair was gelled to a rich swigged like blokes from bottles of even been a passing whisper in my crisp, my two-tone shiny purple shirt was Carlsberg and shot-glasses brimmed adolescent subconscious. In the years ironed to military standards, and I was with baked bean-flavoured tequila, and that have elapsed since those carefree without doubt the most desirable being we were striding, lairy and wobbly, to days, many things have changed. But my in town that night. our final destination: the Krazy House. appreciation of booze, and questionable Here, the average age, not the minimum, If you’d have asked me then where I taste in shirts, remain steadfastly intact.

After I left sixth form, I worked as a waiter Sales Account Manager in Manchester, assertion) are all about elegance and in a local pub. The Jolly Miller is where and after coming through WSET Level 3, harmony, finesse and poise. Words like I have my earliest memory of actually I applied for the vacant Wine Development these are used regularly by people that enjoying a glass of red wine – Campo Specialist role for the North, a position I’ve know far more about wine than I, and of Viejo Rioja, since you ask! My next job now held for two years. course I appreciate those perspectives. But as restaurant bartender in the Albert being a simple chap, clumsy of demeanour So there! I’m clearly still something of a Dock’s prestigious Pan-American Club and lacking in any real sophistication, these fledgling in matters oenological, and this first brought me into contact with premium are attributes which don’t really tickle my inexperience may become obvious with wines, and although it meant little to me fancy as much as sheer craziness of flavour. my wine selection. The wines I really get at the time, it was supplied exclusively by To sum up, a wine will either make me excited about are those that broadcast Matthew Clark! After a red-eyed year of beam with delight and roar like a lunatic, or themselves most loudly and proudly split shifts, late nights and long weekends, shrug with indifference. Those featured here with phenomenal fanfares of fantastical are all the former. I sought a less-nocturnal, means of flavours… Mine is an unrefined palate, one employment, taking leave of my senses that needs to be grabbed and shaken into WINE SELECTION and becoming a car sales executive. life by pronounced, prominent and powerful tastes and aromas. Shy and retiring wines First of all, I’ve found two , and After two years learning invaluable sales will not find a home in this feature – give have opened both the Oakridge 864 lessons (not to mention cynicism and me flamboyance and intensity! Amuse my Chardonnay (do NOT sniff this straight contempt, and almost losing faith in bouche! Tell me what you’re all about! Don’t away) and the Amarone, and decanted humanity), I found a dimly-lit path back to whisper quietly about subtlety, delicacy them. We’ll come back to these absolute booze with a Scotch whisky company who or elegance… Make me remember you, animals in half an hour or so, and while were looking for a salesperson in the North compel my lips to smile involuntarily, and they’re taking a few deep breaths, we’ll West. Four years learning about whisky, the chances are I’ll have another bottle! start with something bubbly. visiting distilleries, and working with top GLASS, I mean! Another glass. bars and restaurants gave me a fantastic Pongrácz is probably our most under- footing in the drinks industry, and I left I do realise that some of the world’s priced sparkling wine range. As Prosecco for Matthew Clark in 2011. I started as a greatest bottles (though itself a subjective continues to battle Champagne for

18 | Matthew Clark | Vini Kleine Zalze Pongrácz Contino’s Rioja Family Reserve Rapitalà Rosato Brut Blanco Sauvignon Blanc ‘Terre Siciliane’ 24513 25858 23712 23156 £11.35* £23.95* £14.86* £8.15*

sparkling category dominance, Cava vineyard were consistently superior to any fruit, fresh herbs, subtle flintiness and resurges and Argentina takes on Australia grown in the surrounding areas, so why savoury green vegetal traces. for new world honours, South Africa’s blend them with poorer quality grapes? Methode Cap Classique sparklers go Old Viura vines provide most of the fruit, To me, the best wines taste of the largely neglected! Desiderius Pongrácz, with and Garnacha Blanca adding sunshine and warmth of their climates, and the 4. 26942 Rosato ‘Terre Siciliane’, a pioneering Hungarian viticulturalist who weight and richness. Barrel-fermented in £8.15* from Rapitalà is one of the best escaped Russian prison camps and fled French oak and aged on its lees for six examples I can think of, made from the to South Africa in 1958, brought with months, the wine is at once spicy and native Sicilian grape varieties Nerello him contemporary European winemaking smooth, floral, peachy and rich. If you’re Mascalese and Perricone. Drinking this approaches, notably the Champagne still not convinced, the winemaker, son of reminds me of how Badger in Fantastic method of making sparkling wine. the founder, is called Jesùs. Mr Fox must have felt when he first tasted His 1. 24513 Pongrácz Brut, £11.35* It’s back to South Africa for wine number cider – “Foxy… it’s like drinking sunbeams is thirty months in the making, a Pinot three. Founded in 1996 on an estate and rainbows!” – this wine is that same Noir-Chardonnay blend producing magical that has been growing grapes for over “liquid gold”, packed with ripened summer berry fruit flavours over fresh-baked crusty 300 years, Kleine Zalze, has quickly berries and enough rose-petal perfume to bread – I challenge you to pick it out of a bring on many a spontaneous smile. risen to become one of the country’s blind tasting with NV Champagnes three most respected producers, and produce times the price! Next stop Alsace, and 5. 26942 Philippe flavour-packed wines that stand up to the Zinck’s ‘Portrait’ Pinot Gris, £10.68*, 2. 25858 Contino’s Rioja Blanco, award-winning cuisine in their restaurant, or as it’s also known, ’s best £23.95*, a long-standing favourite of mine, Terroir. Their 3. 23156 Kleine Zalze, off-dry white wine in the world! The sugar is the first of four great whites. In Rioja, Family Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, levels are not excessive though, noticeable where most winemakers blend bought- £14.86* is blended from grapes grown only in the form of richness and body in grapes from farmers and vinegrowers across the Western Cape, bunches hand- rather than out-and-out sweetness, and across the region, Contino founded the selected from only the best plots. It tastes moderated by lip-smacking fresh green very first single-vineyard estate in 1973. like the florally diverse patchwork that is apple flavours, smoky spice and minerality.

The grapes from this uniquely-located South Africa itself – a mouthful of tropical If aromatics are your thing (they are mine), *Bottle list price

Matthew Clark | Vini | 19 Bolla’s Amarone Philippe Zinck’s Oakridge 864 Soellner’s Robert Mondavi della ‘Portrait’ Pinot Gris Chardonnay Blauer Winery Pinot Noir Classico ‘Le Origini’ 26942 25273 22808 14226 29027 £10.68* £41.52* £11.63* £18.60* £36.91*

then this wine is a winner with any dinner! Knorr Stock Pot. He’s bound to deny this grown. Other grapes can radically change though, and make up some story about depending on their environment – Pinot And so we come to the 6. 25273 hand-selected grapes, gentle handling, no Noir falls into this latter category! This Oakridge 864 Chardonnay, £41.52*, chemical intervention and no filtering; just wine is like no other I’ve ever tasted: rich which has finally caught its breath. If you pure, natural wines. Whatever, Dave. and decadent; full of spiced plum and ripe stole a cheeky sniff when it was first black cherry flavours; silky-smooth despite Chomp on a water biscuit, grab a clean opened (I told you not to!), you would have the surprisingly high alcohol levels that glass, and we’ll move onto the first of been knocked out by a bizarre, unearthly carry the flavours through the finish – if this three reds. Austria’s most widely planted pungent, farmyardy stench… but, after is what Pinot Noir tastes like in Carneros, red grape is 7. 22808 Blauer Zweigelt, half an hour, that pong has disappeared I’ll see you there. and revealed this excitable little wallaby, and Toni Soellner’s, £11.63* biodynamic packing so much flavour that it doesn’t version yodels an alpine opus in fruit- Our concluding red wine is surely the know what to do with itself! When it is and-savoury balance. Bassy baritones of ultimate heavyweight, and a mouthful in released from the bottle, it actually farts blackberry and bramble, fiery falsettos of every sense – 9. 29027 Bolla’s frankly with sheer excitement (that’s probably fresh white pepper and subtle sopranos of dangerous Amarone della Valpolicella what you could smell), but now that it’s aromatic spice make up the light-bodied Classico ‘Le Origini’, £36.91*, a feral but full-flavoured composition in this spent some time out in the open, it just brute that should ideally be served through unusual, curiously addictive bottle of wine! bounds around elatedly throwing delicious a muzzle if you can’t find a decanter. flavours about the place – grapefruit, The first thing to say about my next choice, Luckily, much like the comedy of flavours peach, ginger, lemongrass, brioche, with 8. 14226 Robert Mondavi Winery that is Oakridge 864 Chardonnay, this backnotes of honey the whole way through Pinot Noir, £18.60*, is that it is not a has been opened, resting, breathing and a galactic finish. Dave Bicknell, Oakridge’s Pinot Noir. It can’t be, can it? Pinot Noir relaxing, and it’s now finally happy to let its winemaker, seems to have discovered is light, delicate, bright and fruit-led, with guard down. Astounding alcohol levels of a way to concentrate obscene amounts subtle savoury notes… isn’t it? As it turns 16.5% are unfazed by borderline nuclear of flavour into wine! My theory is that he out, grapes are strange little creatures. concentrations of flavour: those of the has secretly invented a wine stock cube, Some, like , share lots of similar richest of forest fruits, flanked by meaty,

*Bottle list price which he drops into every bottle like a characteristics irrespective of where they’re leathery lashes and dark chocolate in

20 | Matthew Clark | Vini Congratulations David Shortly before this was going to print, we found out that our very own David Kelly was presented with the John Avery Vinters’ Award from WSET, so we caught up with David to find out a little more about it...

So, tell us about the John Avery legend Joel Peterson, or Mondavi guru Gonzalez Byass Vinters’ Awards - what is it? Jose Fernandez’ mum (her cooking is ace, ‘Matusalem’ Oloroso Dulce It’s one of three scholarships granted by apparently), or Arnold Schwarznegger. 22065 the Vintners association, to go on a study What did you enjoy about the course? £21.65* trip to a wine region somewhere – the idea being to learn something new that I couldn’t Many things! Learning how to differentiate understand properly without being there; good quality wines from wines I just something relevant to the trade and to my personally enjoy; tasting some rare and career. It’s not just a jolly – I’ve got to write exceptional wines and learning about what a report for the WSET! makes them so; being a geography geek I also loved learning about the in-depth How did you go about being influence of climate and geology; but nominated for this? mostly, it was probably turning on my I didn’t specifically apply for it – the WSET out-of-office for a week. contacted me after shortlisting the What was the toughest thing about it? top-scoring 30 students from 2013 at Level 3. They took us to their head office The months you have to wait before you in London for an interview on our find out whether you’ve passed or not! knowledge of wine and the wine industry, What wine qualifications do you our tasting ability and our career plans. now hold? From this, they chose twelve students who each won a scholarship of some sort I’ve now passed Levels 1, 2 and 3 with – I happened to be one of the twelve, distinctions – this John Avery Vintners and one of three who won a study trip! Award is also a qualification I think – and I’m also qualified to teach What does it mean to you? WSET Levels 1 and 2. It blew me away, actually – I’ve never I’ve just sat my first thought I’m particularly good at tasting, diploma exams, so and never thought I’d score as highly hopefully that will be abundance. Red wine doesn’t come much as I must have in the exam, either! There another spur on the richer than Amarone, and Amarone doesn’t were 3800 people who sat the Level 3 in trunk in a couple come much better than Le Origini! 2013, so to come in the top 30, let alone of years... for now the top 12 is still a little bit hard to believe! though, my modest And finally… at the risk of sounding like It’s probably more down to my relentless full title is Mr David my Nan, I always like to finish with a glass blagging, and a bit of blind luck. Kelly J.A.V.A. of . This, though, is nothing like Ruby used to drink… A blend of about Will it help with your continuous Great stuff David! three-parts , matured to a rich, wine development? nutty ‘oloroso’ style and then blended Definitely – anything you learn while in a with one-part sweet Pedro Ximinez, there vineyard or winery sticks with you massively is not a cheeseboard in existence that more than something you read in a book. would not be enhanced by a copita of You can study books all you like, but the face-warpingly fantastic 10. 22065 when you’re in a winery, all of your senses ‘Matusalem’ Oloroso Dulce, £21.65* become indelibly filled with knowledge and from Gonzalez Byass. This exceptionally information that will be useful at some point rare wine spends over thirty years maturing in the future. slowly in before being deemed ready for epicurean consumption, emerging a Where are you planning to use it? concentrated colossus of hazelnut, dates, Anywhere I can’t fly with Ryanair or candied fruit, nutmeg, cinnamon and Easyjet! So, while somewhere European coffee. would be easy and accessible, I’m quite likely to visit these countries anyway. I’d If your taste buds are still functioning after like to go somewhere I couldn’t normally all these heavy-hitters, you deserve a go – South Africa, or South America. baked-bean-flavoured tequila shot. Thanks California is another possibility – it for persevering! would be great to meet Ravenswood

Matthew Clark | Vini | 21 ACROSSIn this feature we will pick out some of theTHE most exciting wine POND... making regions in the U.S.A. and take a look at what it is that gives these areas their uniqueness. by Zoë Coombs

Pacific North West Oregon and Washington are the two major of Oregon is where our new range Four players in this area and they could not Graces hail. While the summers are cooler be more different. Damp, green Oregon and cloudier than those of sunny California has always been the home of craftmen its winters are considerably milder. Clouds winemakers making small batch, mainly and humidity wash across the Willamette The grapes for 29106 The Four Graces estate wines. The Coast Range acts as a Valley through breaks in the Coastal Range Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, £19.62* sheltering see wall, as it does in northern so that cool summers and damp autumns are sourced from the Black Family Estate California but here the ocean’s warm North rather than harsh winters freezes are the in the Dundee Hills, the Doe Ridge Estate Pacific current brings rain instead of fog, perennial threats. in the Yamhill Carlton AVA and hand modifying what might otherwise be more selected fruit from other quality vineyards severe temperatures and resulting in some in the Willamette Valley, producing Wine of of America’s most Burgundian style wines. intensity, depth and structure. Aromas of Washington on the other hand originally black pepper, cardamom and lilac with fruit operated on an industrial scale with heavily flavours of wild strawberry and redcurrant irrigated grapes picked mechanically The grapes for 29104 The Four Graces and on the palate the tannins and acids and shipped back to the winerys that , £15.62* are sourced from combine with earthy, chocolate notes. clustered around Seattle. the original Black Family Estate. The vines were planted in 1995. This is one Climate is Oregon’s great point of of the older blocks of Pinot Blanc in the difference to the rest of the USA. Willamette Valley and continues to produce Willamette Valley in the South East fruit of exceptional quality.

California 90% of all American wine is grown in and a more delicate power than is usual a stunning Cabernet Sauvignon that is California, it is a vast area and the potential in Napa Cabernet. The region that takes beautifully balanced and elegant. of a vineyard site is crucially determined by its name from a run of bare rocks in the what lies between it and the Pacific Ocean. eastern edge of the valley is unique as they The more mountains there are between create an afternoon sun trap from which a wine making area and the sea, the less warm air radiates. The heat is moderated chance there is of marine air, often fog, by the marine breezes, another afternoon reaching it to moderate the climate. phenomenon which are funnelled through 28106 Chimney Rock Elevage Blanc You could not talk about American wines the Golden Gate. 2010, £26.90* A blend of Sauvignon and not mention Napa Valley, we are Blanc and Sauvignon Gris. This wine going to look in more detail at some of is drinking beautifully now yet will age the sub regions, and feature some wines gracefully over the next few years. 2010 that highlight what makes these areas so was a very cool year which allowed the special and how the vintage went. grapes to reach full maturity yet retain its 25537 Chimney Rock Cabernet acidity, giving us a gorgeous, vibrant and Stags Leap District, Napa Sauvignon, £37.90* From a 134 acre age-worthy white wine. The most premium sub-district of Napa estate in the heart of the Stags Leap which makes Bordeaux-styled wines that Dry Creek Valley, Napa District, renowned for its world-class are world famous, and the first region Zinfandel is California’s signature grape Cabernet Sauvignon. 2010 was a year to be given an appellation based solely variety, and Dry Creek is ideally suited of extremes in the Golden State and upon ‘terroir’. The region came to the fore to producing top rated Zin’s. Zinfandel another cool vintage, following on the when Stags Leap Wine Cellars took first is a hearty grape that can withstand heels of a cool 2009. This vintage will place at the Judgement of Paris in 1976 the summer heat on the valley floor, yet be best be remembered as one of the beating Chateau Haut-Brion and Chateau retains some freshness due to the cooling coolest of the decade and its extreme Mouton-Rothschild. Much to the continued influence of the Russian River and Pacific heat spikes in August and in September. surprise of many, they managed to do the Ocean breezes. While this proved to be a challenge for the same thing 30 years later in the same winemaking team, the heat spikes allowed tasting! Of all Napa Cabernets, those slower ripening clusters to mature. While of Stags Leap have arguably the most the overall crop was lower than normal, recognisable character; silky texture, an winemaker Elizabeth Vianna, crafted

*Bottle list price aroma of violets or cherries, supple tannins

22 | Matthew Clark | Vini The grapes for The 29105 Four Graces Dundee Hills Pinot Noir, £26.29* are sourced from the best blocks within the Black Family Estate in Willamette Valley. Aromas of black cherry, strawberry and lilacs mingle with rose petals. Fine tannins and acids combine with earthy, chocolate notes, redcurrant and spice making a multi-layered, complex and well balanced wine with silky tannins and texture.

25534 Federalist Zinfandel 2011, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma, £18.60* 2011 was a cool year overall, and remembered for a storm that hit in early October which kick-started an earlier harvest than usual for Zinfandel, resulting in a delicious, fruit- forward, spicy and elegant style wine. Russian River Valley, Napa The fruit is sourced from the world famous Russian River Valley, producing a cracker of a Chardonnay. The unique soil and climate allows Russian River Chardonnays to rival the great White Burgundies of France. Our winemaking team insists on limited production, guaranteeing hand crafted wines that

are of top quality. 25533 TFV Chardonnay 2013, Russian River Valley, £20.54* The 2013 vintage was characterised another ideal harvest, following the near perfect 2012. Quality was high and California benefited from another bumper harvest. This year’s harvest was especially excellent in the Russian River Valley, allowing our winemaking team, led by Doug Fletcher to producer another outstanding Chardonnay.

Matthew Clark | Vini | 23 *Bottle list price accolades? these great to he get How did 24 |Matthew Clark|Vini in thein wine industry? Award Achievement Lifetime How do you a win 1963 Mondavi Winery. Robert own his and started winery from the family away moved Robert 1967 most popular wines. Mondavi Winery’sRobert signature and one of his remains Fumé Blanc 1968, in Released much more. plusSauvignon Blanc, so It’s Fumé Blanc. created he wine fresh bright, yet refined and rich delightfully the named He profile. with a California uniquely Pouilly Fumé, enlivening it inspiration in Loire Valley unnuanced wine. sought He asweet, time the at was, which Sauvignon Blanc, washimself recreating Mondavi setRobert for goals first the of One 1968 Sauvignon Blancs in theSauvignon Blancs world. Chardonnays, and finest CabernetSauvignons, the of some of creation to the Mondavi cleared would lead Robert path the time, In follow.to waves pioneers of the inspire throughout the Valley, it would heard Ashot released. Cabernet Sauvignon is Mondavi Winery’sRobert of (1966) vintage first The

1970 becomes Opus One. becomes later which venture, joint suggests the idea of a time in Hawaii. The Baron first the for meet Mondavi Rothschild and Robert de Philippe Baron 1972 as the top wine. Cabernet Sauvignon Winery’s 1969 Mondavi Robert Tasting selects Vintners Times The Los Angeles 1980 Opus One. is announced as the formal partnership 1980 in and wine, venture joint the of vintage first the create and Lucien Sionneau 1979, Mondavi In Tim venture. ajoint for outlined the framework had they hour an to and Bordeaux within invited Mondavi Robert de Rothschild Philippe Baron 1978,In the

1982

became known as the “ tour.” “mission the as known became programs these ‘80s, later the In ofcontext human civilization. and demonstrate wine’s in history the promote the role of wine with meals to program education a consumer his fellow vintners for the creation of In 1982, Mondavi on calls Robert 1983 the winery. at featured are and Julia Child Waters Alice as such chefs Pioneering a separate series. as America of chefs great the to include expands the program program, Robert Chefs of France founding the Great Seven years after 1985 character. fruit concentration and to maximize manner spaced aclosely in begins planting vineyards Mondavi Winery Robert

1987 introduced. is label Reserve anew harvest, Mondavi’s 50th of Robert In recognition The late, great Robert Mondavi certainly knew…

Robert believed that wine was an integral part of life and good wine should be paired with good food. A truly legendary man, Mondavi was awarded the Legion d’Honneur – France’s highest Presidential honour – and the Vinexpo Lifetime Achievement Award in 2005 along with many other awards during his life. Robert emigrated from Italy and went on to become a true pioneer of the Californian wine industry, championing the labelling of wine by grape variety, the introduction of cool fermentation and the use of stainless steel tanks.

Robert is recognized by the Culinary Institute of America Robert Mondavi as an “Ambassador” and is launches the Robert Mondavi is granted a “Master of Aesthetics Mission Program to Robert Mondavi’s recognized by the of Gastronomy” award. educate the public autobiography, California State about wine and In this same year Robert is “Harvests of Joy: Assembly for his its role throughout recognized in the National My passion for lifetime contributions civilization. Business Hall of Fame by Excellence,” to the California Junior Achievement, Inc. is published. Wine industry.

1990 1992 2000 2005 Robert Mondavi 1913-2000 1988 1991 1998 2002

Robert is granted Natural farming, introduced in the The 2000 vintage was The Republic of France the “Merit Award” 1970s, is formally implemented the first to benefit from bestows the Legion from the American throughout all the Robert Mondavi the nearly completed d’Honneur, France’s Society of Enology Winery vineyards and the winery To Kalon Reserve highest presidential and and in has been recognized as a leader Fermentation Cellar. honor, upon Robert. the same year received in environmental responsibility. The award was in The new winemaking the “Wine and Spirits Dedicated to growing wine naturally, recognition of his work facility features 56 French Professional of the the winery introduced its natural to establish a strong oak fermenters. Prized Year” from the James farming and conservation program relationship between for their ability to enhance Beard Foundation. with goals of worker health, the wine industries of aromas, flavors and environmental protection and France and the United complexity in red wines, enhanced grape quality. States. In a ceremony the oak fermenters were held at Opus One, the Natural wine growing for the winery handcrafted in Cognac French Ambassador means working in harmony with by a team of Taransaud presented Robert nature to protect the health of people coopers. Mondavi with his medal. and the earth while producing the finest-quality wine. Environmentally friendly practices include conserving soils and water, managing pests, and recycling water and materials.

Matthew Clark | Vini | 25 *Bottle list price 26 |Matthew Clark|Vini favourite wines… Noir(Pinot Chardonnay). and Here just of are three our (Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc) and Carneros of Napa Valley’svineyards, including finest Stag’s Leap Robert Mondavi Winery sources grapes from some Wines of note aged in oak barrels for about five months. five for about barrels oak in aged was wine the of tannins; extraction agentle encourage to cap of the down punching with fermenter open-top place took fermentation The profile. flavour the enhance to included are Sirah Petit and of quantities Small finish. fresh bright, the on spiciness pepper a black with flavours jam cherry and berry silky supple, with aromas, cherry dried and raspberry exhibits wine this palate, amedium-bodied With 22976 |£9.96* Private selection Pinot noir flavours and complexity. and flavours of retention maximum the ensure to filtration without bottling before barrels oak French in ageing by 15 over months followed excellent varietal concentration. A long is employed showing wines coloured deep produce that regions Stag’s Leap Cabernet Sauvignon. using Made grapes from the and Oakville Napa Valley quality, premium by definition therefore and A classic, 14225 | £19.72* Cabernet Winery with subtle oak nuances on the palate. blossom, citrus and fruit tropical such as lime and lychee, honey textured wine with pronounced aromas of jasmine and orange creamyfully almost ripe which grapes result in a full-bodied areas. The warm yet still temperate growing conditions produce grapes sourced from the Leap, Stags and Oakville Rutherford barrel-fermented is Sauvignonmade Blanc This using partially 22788 |£16.02* Blanc Fume

5 MINUTES with LUKE DONALD The Luke Donald Collection wines have origins Santa Rita Hills north of Santa Barbara. It made perfect sense. in a longstanding friendship between pro-golfer Have you tried many of your golf colleagues’ Luke and the fine wine professional, Bill Terlato. wines and how do they stand up to the Luke plays a very active role in crafting the wines Luke Donald Collection? which bear his name. His personal involvement in I am in great company at Terlato, which also has Jack Nicklaus’ the blending makes each wine unique; wines that wines and Ernie Els’ wines in their portfolio – both of which are best reflect his own sense of style, taste and artistic exceptional. I’m proud to stand alongside them and I think my expression. We caught up with him for a quick wines stand up against theirs nicely, too! Each wine is unique to 5 minutes to find out a little more about Luke, his the individual behind it. wines and what he really thinks about the wine Given the endless stream of high-profile competition in the golfing world... endorsements between sportsmen and various Where did your passion for wine come from products, people might be surprised to learn and when did you first start appreciating wine? that you have been very hands-on during the My parents always enjoyed wine with dinner and when I was of age, process of launching the Luke Donald Collection. I started understanding how wine complements food and vice versa. Could you explain why you were so keen to Of course, I drank my fair share of beer in college, but now wine is ensure this project was more than just a really my drink of choice, especially with a great meal. celebrity endorsement and what you role you You have been working with the great Bill Terlato played during the process of launching the to make your wines, how did this partnership Luke Donald Collection? come about? It’s part of who I am. I don’t believe in getting involved in anything Bill and I met at Northwestern University just north of Chicago. that I don’t have a personal passion and belief in. When we He was taking golf lessons from Pat Goss, my golf coach at decided to do this, I went to Napa with Bill Terlato and we were Northwestern. We started talking, then hitting some balls and in the vineyards with the winemakers and we were barrel-tasting pretty soon, a great friendship evolved, around shared passions and blending with the winemakers to determine the proper style for golf as well as great food and wine and entertaining. We live and the exact balance for each wine. near each other and we get together for golf whenever we can – Your hands-on approach has helped create and great meals with great wines as well. a European-style wine made using some of You must have had a number of options in regards California’s finest grapes. How pleased are you to wineries to work with from around with the wines, did they meet your expectations? the world, aside from your I’m extremely pleased with them! The Terlatos are known for friendship with the Terlato exceptional quality in everything they do, and I saw that principle family, why did you come to life at the blending session. I serve my wines to friends settle on California? and family at my own home and I’d recommend them to anyone at a restaurant. While talking to Bill about the world of In an age in which power hitters dominate both wine-making, I became the American and European golf circuits, your really passionate about game is largely based around finesse. Would you creating an old-world suggest this trait is reflected in the elegance and style of wine, with new- world fruit. It reflects my refinement of the Luke Donald Collection? own life, growing up in Since the wines reflect my own style, I guess you could say they Britain and living now in the are more refined and subtle. They’re not over-powering or over- U.S. And the Terlatos extracted wines. They are delicious on their own and with food. own some of the best vineyards in Could you briefly describe the wines to us and all of California, do you have a favourite? in Stags Leap The LDC Red is a Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon blend with District, a bit of and added for balance Rutherford and roundness. The Chardonnay is 100% Chardonnay from and down Carneros, at the southern end of Napa Valley. It’s aged in the for nine months in 20% new French Oak, which lends it subtle notes of vanilla and even caramel, on top of delicate citrus notes. What is your desert island wine and who, dead or alive, would you share it with? I’m guessing it’s hot on this desert island, so how about sharing a nice glass of cold Bollinger champagne with my wife Diane (awww how sweet I hear you all say!!).

Matthew Clark | Vini | 27 1 3

Nick Zalinski David Kelly Martin Jennings Liam Dunn Business Director, Wine Development2 Wine Development Wine Development National Accounts Specialist Specialist Specialist 4 Organise your Wine list Essentially, you want Keep it frequent Food & Wine pairing by style to encourage your staff – Maximise your Don’t expect to do one to have conversations customers dining 44% of customers prefer a training session and assume about wine with your experience with wine list arranged by style this will do for the year. customers. knowledgeable descriptors, 29% Keep regular sessions in recommendations by grape variety, 19% by The right attitude can seal the diary. If your menu country and 8% by brands*. the deal when it comes to changes at your outlet, you Understanding the building For your staff, it helps give wine recommendations, should run a training session blocks of taste (acidity, them the confidence when if a customer feels their to consider which wines sweetness, bitterness or using a ‘by style’ list as it experience is being enhanced should be highlighted along tannin, saltiness or umami) allows them to make good with honesty, rather than with seasonal produce and can help construct a view recommendations for wine a hard sell, they are more flavours. as to how a wine will pair with or without food without likely to take you up on it! with various dishes. Whilst long ‘fluffy’ descriptors. Highlight and get your staff personal taste should never to understand where upsell be ignored, consideration opportunities may occur… as to which wine on a list Instead of ‘…do you want would work match well with a fries with that...?’ ‘Oh I tried particular dish can enhance our Lemon Tart with the your customers dining Late Harvest Sauvignon last experience. week, it was delicious, would Make sure your chef is just you like a glass to go with it?’ as aware of the wines as Get your team to lead your bar and waiting staff. customers towards your Try the wines and food Wine List as well as POS together, so your staff which will highlight particular understand why they pair wines, coax your customers together. to try something new! Encourage staff to think about the different occasions during a customer visit to your outlet- this can determine an opportunity for upsell. In enabling them to recommend a drink suitable to the occasion, you can benefit from additional sales and add-ons.

28 | Matthew Clark | Vini We thought we’d share some of our top tips for increasing wine sales in your business through staff training. The aim of training your staff should be to make them more aware of the wines you list and in turn give them the confidence to talk to your customers, increasing profit opportunity for your outlet through maximising sales. 6 5 7 8 Rachel Love Ian Hudson Freddie Simon Grayson Zoe Coombs9 Wine Development Wine Development Morley-Fletcher Wine Development Wine Development Specialist Specialist Wine Development Specialist Specialist Specialist

Remember what it’s like Make it interesting Try something new, Don’t overwhelm your When training staff for to be new in the world and memorable make it work for you too staff, they don’t need to the first time of wine know everything! Make the most of your If you often find you and I have two key objectives I No one likes to feel Supplier and Account your staff are short for Break it down into bite sized focus on; wrong, especially with an Manager – utilise the wealth time, consider supporting chunks – Your staff don’t 1. They understand the audience. Give your staff a of knowledge your supplier your training programme need to know everything basics of what wine is, pronunciation guide to give can offer you, whether it’s with online modules to suit about every wine. Focus on a what makes each wine them confidence to speak access to Winemakers your schedules. We have few wines of different styles different. to your customers about the for tastings and training, partnered up with Flow and make sure each member wines on your list. attending Trade Shows and Hospitality training to create of staff can give some key 2. They are confident other Wine events put on a Wine module which gives information and interesting in talking about & by your supplier. We have you the ability to manage and facts about each. understand all the wines on their list. Well, up a whole team of Wine record your own training with Make it accessible – Wine Development Specialists flexibility and control. to a 50 bin list, let’s be can be an overwhelming reasonable. who are available to support subject to some people. you and your team, with Be aware that your staff lots of innovation up our may be young, and have a sleeves when it comes to tendency to drink from other wine training! Never a dull categories. Wine may not moment! be their first choice when it Use incentives – make it comes to drinks…although it interesting for your team, should be. encourage them to learn more about the list and continue to build on their wine knowledge, particularly with the wines on your list. Your supplier can help you with ideas which can be tailored specifically to your outlet. Pitch your training at the right level – wine can be a daunting subject, sometimes perceived as a little formal and often confusing.

*Source: Wine Intelligence On-Trade Report 2011 Matthew Clark | Vini | 29 Vidal Estate is one of New Zealand’s oldest wineries, sitting in the premier region of Hawkes VidalBay in the North Island. Established in 1905 by Anthony Joseph Vidal, a young emigrant from Spain, his spirit and commitment is reflected today through head winemaker, Hugh Crichton. Hugh’s natural hands off winemaking approach, allows the vineyard and season to shine through in every vintage. “I’m influenced by my experiences in Europe, adapting those practices to a New Zealand approach, focusing on producing wine in an environmentally conscious way… I love producing classic, elegant, styled wines.” Says Hugh.

Back in 1979 Vidal Estate campaigned to change New Zealand licensing legislation and even opened the country’s first winery restaurant, which still enjoys great success and acclaim today. Hugh is also a huge food enthusiast and amateur Chef, so it comes as no surprise that Vidal wines are so versatile and food friendly. We caught up with him in his recent visit to see the Matthew Clark gang to chat all things food and wine, over a spot of lunch – obviously!

30 | Matthew Clark | Vini So Hugh, we already know that you Most people choose a dish and select a take some influence from Europe is wine to enjoy with it, do you ever flip it it true that old world wines are more around and select a wine, then choose food friendly than the new world? something to eat to compliment it? It really has nothing to do with whether the wine is Absolutely. With quality wines, the last thing you produced in the old or new world. More importantly want to do is over power it with food so I usually it is the influence the climate has, as well as select the wine first and then choose the food to the winemakers desired wine style. Great wine compliment it. Central to any great wine is balance, is not produced to a recipe; it is not made to a and the same can be said for a dish, so I tend to manufacturing process. Great wine requires a great focus on simplicity of flavour and quality of produce climate, great soils and great people and this is in my food choice, and let the wine do all the talking. found in both the old and new world. Whenever pairing food with wine it’s imperative to That said, regions that have a marginal climate for focus on two simple principles. Weight and flavour. ripening (grapes) have the ability to produce wines Light wines go with light foods, and heavier wines with elegance, freshness and a good natural acidity- with heavier, more substantial food, it’s not a hard attributes which allow versatility when it comes to rule to remember, but it makes all the difference to food matching. your enjoyment of the two. And a marginal climate, is that what Does the success of the restaurant you have in Hawkes Bay? directly affect any of the work you do? Situated on the east coast of the North Island And if so, how? of New Zealand, Hawkes Bay enjoys one of the Without question, because we have a thriving warmest and driest climates of New Zealand. restaurant, a big focus will always be to produce a In context though, New Zealand sits within the food friendly wine. Core to our wine is elegance. framework of a “cool climate” viticultural region or Not only because we believe these wines are some may say marginal. It’s in these regions that more pleasurable to drink but because more often the great wines of the world are made. If grapes than not, they complement food wonderfully. ripen too quickly, too easily, then the wines lose Our aspiration is to release balanced, interesting balance with too much sugar (think high alcohols), wines that reflect where they are from and can be and not enough natural acidity or adequate phenolic consumed with food without dominating or being ripeness. If grapes ripen too late then flavour dominated. development/concentration is lacking making the wines appear mean/skeletal with searing acid When it comes to the hundreds of decisions that levels. It is somewhere in between these extremes are made from site selection, yield control, oak that achieves slow ripening, flavour accumulation, selection, fermentation, right through to bottling, the retention of balanced natural acidity and phenolic principle of elegance is always in mind. (tannin) ripeness. What is your best ever memory/ The diversity of climates within the vast Hawkes experience of a food and wine match? Bay region allows us to match specific varieties On completion of vintage at Chateau Soutard to specific sites where the benefits of marginality - Grand Cru Classe and classical producer of can be met. For example the Gimblett Gravels is St.Emilon, Bordeaux, the winemaker took me to the very close in climatic factors to Bordeaux so it’s no village of Sauterne, a place that produces some of surprise that stylistically there is a similarity in the the world’s most exquisite sweet wines. We dined in final wine. Chardonnay on the other hand requires a beautiful restaurant in the heart of the village. My cooler aspects to deliver greatness, so we use sites all-time memorable experience was the pan seared further inland with some altitude and proximity to fresh and thinly sliced Foie Grais served with, of cool airflow, such as the mountain ranges, or coastal course Sauterne –Chateau Rieussec 1989. In fact, areas. It’s such a complex subject, winemaking is we drank Sauterne with every course that day. not an easy job.

Matthew Clark | Vini | 31 Ahh sounds amazing, although I am sure you can’t drink Sauterne every day and eat Foie Gras, so what is an ‘old favourite’ or reliable match that you always return to? Meet the It’s difficult to pin point one wine and food match as a favourite, there are so many delicious combinations to revert back too! However Vidal Reserve Syrah, matched maker with a dish created by our head chef, braised red cabbage, venison fillet and cherries is a sure winner. Syrah plantings in New Zealand have more than tripled in the past decade cementing this gentle, peppery spice and fragrant wine as a real favourite. Vidal Estate was recently recognised with trophies for their top tier Syrah at both the Decanter World Wines Awards UK and Asia. There you go, my top tip on what to look out for! New Zealand has produced some stunning Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir renowned worldwide, do you think that Syrah is the ‘next big thing?’ Hawkes Bay is producing such beautiful Hugh Crichton Syrah, showing hallmarks of fragrance, spice and elegance. This is particularly Head Winemaker true from our premium vineyards in the increasingly recognized sub region of Gimblett Gravels. Our climate enables us to deliver this wine style, avoiding the sometimes over ripe characteristics you Hugh Crichton joined the Vidal Estate winemaking team in 2004 can get from warmer areas. It goes back to that marginal climate I mentioned earlier… and became Chief Winemaker in 2006. Hugh studied viticulture and oenology in Europe and New Zealand before establishing an Of course you have to consider Chardonnay when talking about New international career in winemaking, working 21 vintages around the Zealand too, it’s actually the third biggest world. His experience includes working vintages in Saint Emilion, varietal produced after Sauvignon Bordeaux, Central Otago and Sicily, Italy. Blanc and Pinot Noir. Hawke’s Bay has consistently produced New Zealand’s Hugh also worked several vintages at Millton Vineyards in Gisborne leading examples of Chardonnay and some of the finest, complex and textural where his inspiration for environmentally conscious and organic examples in the world. Chardonnay, in my winemaking and viticulture was fostered. Hugh has developed a unique view, is the greatest white wine variety in and defined style of winemaking and has firmly established himself as the world, and one that we really focus on the Vidal Estate winemaker drawing on his vast experience in Europe here at Vidal Estate. to create wines that are elegant, textured and complex. Hugh has a fine In fact, a (new!) Matthew Clark Wine appreciation for the classical, understated and balanced style many listing, the Vidal Reserve Chardonnay has been receiving incredible critical acclaim, European wines offer. This approach matched with new world ingenuity both in New Zealand and globally. Keeping and fantastic vineyards, results in wines with international acclaim. the trademark Hawkes Bay elegance, Hugh’s passion for making exquisite Chardonnay, Syrah and Cabernet balance and style, but borrowing from Sauvignon/Merlot blends is evident in the numerous awards these Burgundian tradition, really showcasing the new wave of New Zealand Chardonnays. wines have collected in recent years. Hugh and his team were proud to Steven Spurrier recently commented on the be awarded Winery of Year at the Hawkes Bay A & P awards in 2013. ‘harmonious and highly stylish Chardonnay’ Vidal Legacy Chardonnay was recently named New Zealands Best that was coming out of Hawkes Bay, so you don’t have to just take my word for it. Wine at the Air Awards 2014. Number vintages: 21

32 | Matthew Clark | Vini Vidal Legacy Syrah 2009 matched with braised red cabbage, venison fillet and cherries

To make Quenelle approx 50 grams of Potato to left of dish. Spoon approx. 50g of braised cabbage besides potato. Fan 4 venison coins directly on top of potato/cabbage (approx 30g). 3 cherries on top of venison. Micro greens to Garnish.

The dish is made up of: Smoked potato Braised red cabbage 1. Venison fillet Makes 70 portions Makes 28 portions 2. Venison glaze • 3.5kg Potato • 4x Tablespoons goose fat 3. Smoked potato • 250g White stone smoked butter • 4 onions thinly sliced 4. Pitted sour cherries • 250ml Cream • 3x celery stalks finely slices 5. Braised cabbage • Salt and Pepper • 1x Large red cabbage finely sliced 6. Micro greens • 150 grams pitted sour cherries 1. Boil potato until soft • 300g redcurrent jelly 2. Bring butter and cream to a medium Venison fillet • 500ml venison stock heat (Do not let it boil) Makes 3 portions per 100g log • 500ml Syrah 3. Mash potato until very smooth • Venison fillet • Salt and Pepper 4. Slowly beat butter and cream mixture • Salt and Pepper into potato until fluffy with smoky taste 1. Put goose fat into a heavy based 1. Season fillet of venison 5. Season to taste casserole dish on a medium heat 2. Lightly sear venison 2. Add onion soften without colour 3. Roll tightly in cling wrap (approx. 2cm) Pitted sour cherries 3. Add celery and cabbage 4. Seal in vac pac Makes 35 portions 4. Cook on heat for 2 minutes 5. Sous-vide on 53°C for 1.5 hours • 1x 700 jar of pitted sour cherries 5. Add jelly, stir into cabbage mixture 6. Cut into portions • 1x Cinnamon stick 6. Add red wine and reduce volume • 1x Vanilla pod by half Venison glaze • 3x Star anise 7. Add cherries and stock Makes 35 portions • 2x Orange slices 8. Bring to boil • 1x 200g of venison glaze • 5x Cloves 9. Reduce heat and simmer for 1-2 mins • Salt and Pepper 10. Remove from heat and cover with 1. Heat to medium temperature tinfoil and lid 1. Strain cherry juice into a pot with all 11. Place in oven on 170°C for 2 hours other ingredients 12. Remove from oven 2. Bring to the boil then set aside 13. (cabbage should melt in your mouth) 4. Once cool add the cherries back in

Matthew Clark | Vini | 33 This edition, we caught up with Alastair Rimmer, Head Winemaker at Kleine Zalze. Having only been at the winery a few months, we wanted to get to know a little bit more about him... Kleine Zalze is a family owned winery situated in the heart of the Cape Winelands. Winemaking has taken place there on a small scale since 1695 but it was in 1996, when Kobus Basson and his family purchased the property, that the modern Kleine Zalze was born. In 1996 the estate’s soils were scientifically mapped, evaluated and replanted according to their specific terroir characteristics and potential. Continuous investment over the last 17 years has seen the winery evolve into one of the leading and most awarded in Stellenbosch, not to mention one of our longest standing South African partners.

ow are you settling into life at Kleine most of the “changes” are more focused H Zalze? I am settling in extremely well and on tweaking styles and keeping our wines the team has made me feel very welcome… relevant to the consumers. There seems to be I already feel like part of the “family”. a definite trend to wines that are a little fresher Are there any big differences to your last role? and focused which allow the wines to show a There is quite a difference in the structure greater sense of place. The challenge is to do of the company, as my previous job was at this while maintaining the identity which has a co-operative winery, however, day to day allowed Kleine Zalze to do so well in the past!! winemaking and management responsibilities are similar. I have also had the opportunity to ho are KZ’s biggest market? Our work with other quality focused and family run Wmain markets are the UK, Sweden, wineries and it is a real to pleasure to be part The Netherlands and Germany. of the tight knit and focused team here at o you have to make wines tailored Kleine Zalze. Dto certain palettes? The answer is ave you come up against any both yes and no. In both our Family Reserve Hchallenges so far? Lots! Seriously and Vineyard Selection ranges we are trying though Kleine Zalze is a dynamic and growing to focus on expressing site/region specific winery that is proud of the fact that we are characters of wines from a specific vintage. leaders in our industry. So it will be a challenge With the Cellar Selection range we have a little to keep that momentum going and keep the more freedom to try to showcase various styles wines moving forward while at the same time and flavour profiles that might be tailored suited keeping wines styles relevant to the consumers. to specific palates or preferences. The wines With world focus shifting to alternate varieties are made to be and expression of the varieties and styles we need to look at possibly adding that they are made up off, and while there is a few new wines to our portfolio that will allow less focus given to the specific source of the us to offer some unique wines that showcase grapes we still strive to have the wines display some of the diversity we have as a country and a brightness and a sense of place. that we are able to achieve with the resources o, tell us, what’s happening amongst available to us at Kleine Zalze. Sthe vines right now? It is party time in the o have you come in making lots of vineyards! We started harvest on the 12th of Schanges and shaking things up? January which is indicative of the season which Nothing dramatic. Kleine Zalze is doing well and is the earliest for many a year. So far we have the wines are well received and that they keep had an exceptional growing season, and so selling well in our various markets. As always long as mother-nature plays along we are very we are continually looking to evolve and improve excited to see what will be coming out of our on what we have done before. With that said vineyards this year!

34 | Matthew Clark | Vini hat’s your expectation for the next oes Anything particularly stand out about f you were not a viticulturist what would you W release of the range? We are very Dthe UK On-Trade market? The UK on-trade I be? I can’t really imagine myself doing anything excited about the upcoming releases across our is arguably the most competitive in the world and else but if I had to do something I could see myself portfolio. As mentioned earlier we are continually it is very rewarding to see how well our wines are working in nature conservation in the bushveld looking to evolve and refine our wines and the new represented in the on-trade. I have seen from a (wildlife) in Southern Africa. releases will hopefully showcase this evolution. recent independent report on the UK on-trade ny particular highs and lows of your that Kleine Zalze was the best distributed, South nything you’re particularly excited work? There have been many highs and African, on-trade brand in the UK and was also A about? We have some really exciting wines lows, I try not to dwell on the lows (Can possibly A the 13th best distributed wine brand from the coming out of Kleine Zalze at the moment and just confirm that it had more to do with difficulties world in the UK on-trade market. It is thus clear it is difficult to pick one but, that in itself is quite regarding visas) but some of the highlights have that Matthew Clark has been a very good partner exciting. We, through vineyards that we own and been working with century old vineyards in for Kleine Zalze since 1998 and I hope that I will farm ourselves and through long term relationships Australia, California and Spain and the ability to also be able to contribute to grow this already very with various growers, have access to some of learn from all the great winemakers I have worked successful relationship going forward. the most exciting vineyards around. A particular with around the world. highlight is that we source some of the best old he link between your wines and food is ell us something funny… I was working at vineyard Chenin blanc that South Africa has to a focus for the team at Kleine Zalze, why T a fairly large winery in Australia and it was the offer. Also we have an amazing site right here at is this so important? Food and wine go hand in T middle of the harvest and it was “full-steam” ahead. the winery and with the southerly aspect (cooler hand. To this end we have the Terroir restaurant The general manager had asked us to make sure in the Southern hemisphere) of our vineyards we (8 times in the Top 10 restaurant of South Africa the winery was neat and tidy as he had some always get the long and even ripening that we in the 10 years it’s has been open!) which is a VVIP’s coming around for a cellar visit before going always are looking for. Hey there might even be fantastic resource to try our wines with great food to lunch. Right at the moment they were next to some single vineyard wines in the future to highlight on a regular basis and make sure that we are on the crusher one of the must lines “gave way”. The some of the amazing terroir we have!?! track in this regard. (It is all work I promise!) The ensuing eruption covered all within a 50 foot radius whole team here has a passion for both food and hat’s your opinion of MC and how we in grapes from head to toe!! Needless to say lunch wine and are often enjoyed most when shared with operate? As you know I haven’t been at was cancelled but, we did have a fantastic dinner W friends and family around a dining table, a place Kleine Zalze long so haven’t had the opportunity with them that night and many good laughs were that we would love others to be able to enjoy our to meet the whole team at Matthew Clark however, had around the dinner table that evening. wines too, a philosophy that embraces the lifestyle those that I have met had been great. It seems to that we ascribe too as well. here did you drink your most me that you have a team that is passionate about memorable glass of wine? What was what they do and do a great job of communicating o you have a personal food and wine W it? That is a really hard question there have been what we do and the passion we have for our wines pairing? I find that food matches are always D many memorable glasses of wine. Lots of wine to the customers. difficult as a lot depends on personal preference. from great vintages and great producers however, My golden rule is to drink and eat what you enjoy often the company that I have shared some of and brings you pleasure. One of my favourites is these wines made the wines more memorable. good Thai food with German Riesling! One (actually a few glasses) that comes to o, let’s find out a little more about you, mind though was at a good friend’s house in SAlastair…How did you get into viticulture? the Eden Valley. He had invited me, and a few To make a very long story short it had to do with a friends, around for dinner on my birthday. We chance meeting with a professor of viticulture who sat on his deck and had an amazing meal with pretty much convinced me, in the space of short two extraordinary wines. They were the 1979 chat that, “growing wine” is something I should Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz and the 1991 pursue. The rest is as they say – history. “Three Rivers” Shiraz. nd lastly…just for fun… If you, were a A grape variety what grape would you be and why? Ha ha… I would love to say Cabernet… bold and muscular with great complexity and the ability to mature well… But we all know that would be a “tall story”!!

Matthew Clark | Vini | 35

Part 3 So here we are, we have reached our final instalment of ‘Dreaming of Italy,’ this time I am covering the South and the surrounding Islands. If nothing from my previous two whitterings have tantalised those tastebuds, or made you out to book the next easyjet flight to this vinous land, then I’m not sure we can still be friends, but I urge you to give me one last shot, and read on, the sunny south has plenty to coax us out of our winter slumber and awaken our senses… By Tiffany Mogg

Sardinia is the second largest island in wine has a mineral, zippy character with to the very south where we have Puglia and the Mediterranean, fought over by most grapefruit, green apple, dried herbs and nuts Basilicata. It is so hot and rugged here that European powers, it finally became part on the palate. Named Terre Bianche after I think the wines really compete with new of Italy in 1861. More than just a fabulous the vineyard with white chalky marine world styles for boldness, big fruit flavour holiday destination, Sardinia is a beautiful fossil soil in Alghero, this wine would and a full on tannin party in your mouth. and fairly sizable Island that actually contains sit as a niche alternative for Chablis Knowing my fondness for Italian wines 3% of all Italy’s vineyards. Many of the drinkers and would please most Loire a little birdy (by the name of Siobhan grapes grown on the island have come from Valley wine lovers. Irons, Wine Buyer) told me that Spanish and French origin, but there is Matthew Clark are bringing in some one grape variety in particular Torbato, of Cannonau is a red wine from to add to our wine list. which no-one is really sure of its source. Sardinia that is somewhat more Great news! For those of you Cast aside by the majority of winemakers recognisable (not hard to be in that have not tried it before, I most Torbato came close to extinction. It is comparison though I suppose!) liken the varietal to Malbec, it has difficult to grow and has a very fibrous known as Garnacha in Spain and lashings of black fruit, sometimes pulp, so most winemakers understandably Grenache everywhere else. The hints of cassis or coffee and is concentrated efforts on plump red fruits it gives on the utterly drinkable. Of course this more commercially rewarding palate make this wine so easy is still a bit of a secret so I can’t Vinifera or ‘vine species’ and approachable to drink. Sella tell you too much other than to to you and me. That was until & Mosca take care not to over definitely hunt them down at our Sardinian Producer Sella & extract this very giving varietal, 2015 wine tastings and give them Mosca decided to get involved. growing it on the dry rocky slopes a try for yourself. You might catch me Now they claim to be the on the islands interior, the vine really has hanging around that area too! only winery in the world to to work. 23499 Cannonau di Sardegna be growing Torbato and Riserva, £11.12 also spends two years in Puglia, otherwise known as ‘the heel’ making wine from it. 23497 large Slavonian oak casks, which I think of Italy is actually one of my favourite Terre Bianche Torbato di softens down the alcohol and rounds the ‘go to’ regions for value for money. The Alghero, Sella & Mosca, tannins out beautifully. Another lovely wine area consists of flat arid land, as much £10.53 So, if you are looking from a top team. recognised for its olive oil as it is wine. for something completely Ok it is not as a-typically beautiful as the unique and boutique then Although there is another island to visit, let’s rest of the country, for sure it would just be look no further. This return to the mainland for the moment, right scorched desert land if not for the coastal

36 | Matthew Clark | Vini winds crossing the peninsula from both the cool slopes and wonderful volcanic soils for your bones and makes a fantastic partner to Adriatic and Ionian Seas. So that is why it top quality winemaking. Now you can find game or mature cheeses. If you still have a is home to dark bitter grape varieties such wonderful and affordable expressions of log fire roaring then go for it. Negromaro, Malvesia Nera and Primitivo that these two grapes fairly regularly. can cope with that level of heat. Many vines Sticking to the theme of rich, bold wines, here are bush trained to keep the grapes 25994 Bianco Sicilia, Rapitala, there is no reason to cling just to reds, close to the ground with a leafy canopy £8.15 really took me back by its appealing 23160 Chardonnay ‘Grand Cru’, to keep them cool. Wines from the Salice round texture, tropical fruit flavour and £17.30 is one of Rapitala’s flagship Salentino DOC have freshness for its very modest price tag. wines, and what a show stopper it a brooding depth to them full This wine was aged on its lees prior is, although not a grape variety you of prune, chocolate, herbs and smoke. to bottling, made from grapes grown would usually associate with Italy. When modern winemaking techniques 400 metres above sea level Using the altitude and cooling winds are employed the grape can show which accounts for its charming available on the island of Sicily, remarkable juicy fruit such as red mouthfeel balanced with fresh fruit the Chardonnay here is allowed currents and red cherry, making and acidity. a long ripening period to really them ideal for BBQ’d food that A perfect by the glass option develop flavour. This is not for the needs robust flavours as well to enjoy on its own or with feint hearted, it’s a chardonnay for as vibrancy. 19691 Salice a multitude of foods. Rapitala chardonnay lovers, brimming Salentino 35 Parallelo, £5.75 also does a Nero d’Avola matured with pineapple, sweet melon, caramel, and is a great example in barrique that makes a suberb vanilla. Again, an absolute must try and of this style. match to herb crusted lamb. another clue to where you might find me pausing at one Finally, I can’t finish my journey Don’t make the mistake of just of our wine tasting events. through Italy without mentioning sticking to the entry level wines Sicily, and for me my ‘hero’ form Sicily, as you will miss out on ... And so there it is my mere introduction wines for the On-Trade, Grillo some seriously good stuff. 23161 as to what Italy has to offer, there is most and Nero d Avola. Having Hugonis Cabernet Sauvignon- certainly something to satisfy all wine lovers, produced Marsala for centuries Nero d’Avola, £17.45 is a brooding red from the humble to the sophisticated, my Sicily had to re-think when light with an abundance of tannin and structure to advice to you is stray from the norm and dry wines became the ‘in thing.’ support notes of blackcurrant, cedar, cherry go for something a little different, try Luckily Mount Etna provides the Island with and spice. This is a wine to warm you to something Italian. *Bottle list price

Matthew Clark | Vini | 37 A FEW THINGS DON’T YOU MAY BOTTLE NOT KNOW IT UP! ABOUT US...

38 | Matthew Clark | Vini

keeps us up Our wine Purchasing Director Simon Jerrome to date with his tweets from the world of wine… @MatthewClarkLtd

Really looking forward to welcoming @TeAwaWinery @theprovidores @edsi100 and left field to the @ @MatthewClarkLtd #launica15 @felixsolisUK MatthewClarkLtd great to be part of such Wahooo, a the range for winemakers putting the blend 2015 great Enzed list! together

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@MatthewClarkLtd Get down to @Salt_Malt #ChewValley at Lake ASAP! Told the best chips in #bristol #food #Brussels are at #chezantoine not bad but nothing on Raining in #Bristol but ray @Salt_Malt @chewvalley! of sunshine in the form of Stephen Cronk Loving the wines @brasserieblanc #hotelcateys Lovely steak @mirabeauwine has arrived sponsored by @ #Cheltenham matthewclarkltd tonight washed with his new vintages #lfe down with a bottle of Marilyn #merlot @MatthewClarkLtd

Matthew Clark | Vini | 39 Simon Haywood Wine Category Manager Siobhan Irons Wine Buyer After the not-to-be-spoken- about-again disastrous vintage of 2012 England and Wales has As the popularity of steakhouses been blessed with not one, but, continues to soar, Malbec seems two superb vintages. Even though to be leading the way but I think production volumes of English wine Argentina has much more to offer are tiny compared with France and it won’t be long before Cabernet there will never have been so much Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon are high-quality English wine available. in demand. We have seen some fantastic high quality examples Geoff Brown Racy, zippy, zesty, pure, light and fresh are the key qualities that make recently. These wines have the Marketing Director English wines such good partners structure and tannin that go so well for many dishes. Whether sparkling with a huge plate of protein! or still, providing you’re not looking I’m looking forward to the for a huge red, English wine provides re-emergence of in plenty of flavour bang for your pound. 2015. Some amazing new flavours from talented winemakers like the brilliant Willi Opitz.

Steve Clark Wine Business Insight

For my money the big success story for the wine sector in the On-trade during 2015 will be English wines. Over recent years we have been treated to a whole raft of the highest quality English beverages. From the excellent hop fuelled beers, the crisp wine and thirst quenching ciders to the exotic and exciting gins, England is indeed on top of its game. TRENDS The thirst for English drinks has been driven by consumers’ desire for premium quality, locally produced for products that satisfy their desire for unequivocal provenance and 2015 quintessentially cool English brands. In the On-trade wine sector that space is filled with a number of excellent producers such as Camel Tiffany Mogg Valley, Chapel Down, Denbies and Wine Product Manager Nyetimber all of which are making spectacular and exhilarating English wines. In the right outlets these will Several years ago I did a tasting Andrea Ruggeri satisfy consumers’ aspirations and with the iconic Australian producer Director, AA Ruggeri Consultancy Ltd become firm wine list favourites Penfolds who were planting and producing . Fast-forward to the 2014 London Wine Fair and Nothing stands still in our industry How do we look at wines which there was barely a country that or does it!! in reality offer fantastic value for money in terms of their quality wasn’t experimenting with Italian With wine sales across all and how can we sell them in an varietals and excitedly exhibiting categories, the on-going key industry which works on % profit the fruits of their labour. It’s not just performers continue to be the key rather than cash returns!! to Sangiovese, think Fiano, , historic lines with Pinot Grigio/ name but a few! Enrico Serafino … the results are really good Chardonnay/Sauvignon Blanc/ Roero , Friulano Grave Del too! Merlot/Shiraz-Syrah/Basic house Friuli-Borgo Tesis-Fantinel and the wine be they from Italy or more With the food friendly qualities that Tosco Rosso Toscana-Villa Poggio likely due to price positioning Spain these varieties have, it’s a smart Salvi and RK Riesling Mosel- and not forgetting the continuing move from the New World, and a Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt!! great move for the on-trade. I think rise of Prosecco. Certain varietals we will see more and more examples coming from one country may have Whether as house wines by the come through and reaching our wine declined but the same varietal then glass trade up, or specials as wine lists in 2015. switched to another country due of the month, we need to open up to overstocks/harvest volume/ our consumers to a world where currency advantages due to decline they can see just how fantastic in values –the Rand from South wines can be, coming away from Africa to name but one - hence the more classic and safer options price decline so becoming more which dominate our market. affordable termed better value for They will thank you all for it!! money.

40 | Matthew40 | Matthew Clark Clark | Vini | Vini Phil Reedman Shingleback

The next big thing from Australia. There are more red blends based on the usual-suspect varieties; often 2015 will be the year when they’ll involve interesting Spanish and is rediscovered Italian varieties such as Tempranillo, by the rest of the world who will Graciano, Nero d’Avola and find that: Sangiovese. They’re a great way into Chardonnay is no longer a one these so-called ‘Alternative Varieties’ glass-wonder; bigger than Ben Hur which are getting Australian drinkers and oakier than the Major Oak. so excited. Australian Chardonnay is now much Ian Smith Cabernet Sauvignon is a classic Commercial Director finer and more food-friendly; you can in Coonawarra, Margaret River even enjoy it on its own. and the Yarra Valley but you’ll love The brilliant, zippy-dry its charming and very drinkable There is a definite move to better from regions such as South incarnations from McLaren Vale, quality wines in the on-trade. When Australia’s Clare Valley and the Great Clare and the Barossa Valley. Clare wine was in rapid growth, it is Southern region in West Australia Valley Malbec: long overdue a important that the on-trade were able are complemented by the new, renaissance, we gave a trophy to to offer a glass of wine at a similar off-dry styles. They’re not sweet by one at the Clare Valley Wine Show price to beer, cocktails, cider etc. any means and they pair perfectly recently; it beat both Shiraz and With the duty changes over the last with chilli-driven Thai food. Got to Cabernet to the top-prize. few years, wine is significantly more love ‘em. expensive than other drinks in the on-trade. As a result, consumers expect a better product and our customers/retailers are having to respond. Our wine-buying team continue to source high quality examples of popular varietals such as Judith Nicholson Pinot Grigio, Australian Chardonnay Assistant Wine Buyer and New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc etc in order to deliver consumer satisfaction. Wine volumes may not Italian Grape Varieties in Australia. grow in the on-trade but the quality of a glass of wine will get better and Australian wines have always better which will ensure that volumes used grape varieties to provide are maintained. recognisable points of reference for consumers. Chardonnay and Shiraz are now instantly associated with Australia, but some winemakers are branching out and experimenting with exciting new varieties that you wouldn’t normally pair with Australia. Sangiovese, Barbera and are more generally found gracing labels, but more and Guy Hooper more they, and other Italian varieties, Export Director can be found producing exciting and delicious wines in well-known Australian regions, such as Mclaren There are so many exciting things some more Pinot Noir (which we Vale. Consumers find them new, happening at Veramonte, it’s really believe has huge potential interesting, easily recognisable, and difficult to know where to start! here at Veramonte) added in with fantastic examples, such as our The arrival of our new winemaker Casablanca and a few “different” new range from Chalk Hill, this is a Rodrigo Soto in 2012 heralded varieties, such as Cinsault, Cabernet trend that will only continue to grow a new era here and we are now Franc, Grenache, Malbec and in the next year! starting to see the results – elegant, Viognier recently planted, with fresh wines with lower alcohols; some Rousanne and fermentations with native yeasts; on the cards very soon too. We minimal intervention in both the can’t wait to see the results! On vineyards and winery; a rapid move the commercial side we continue towards organic certification (full to focus on our key markets, such transition to be completed in 2018) as the UK and the USA, however and some biodynamic practises “emerging” markets such as China, being implemented in the future as Vietnam, Russia, Eastern Europe, well. This is certainly evident in our Brazil and Mexico are top of our Laurie Davis wines now, especially with the new priority list too and continue to Wine Controller releases, as we can experience surprise with their appetite for fine wines with more authenticity, Chilean wines. At the end of the day character and personality, reflecting our quest to position the Veramonte My prediction will be the evolution a sense of place. Talking of which, and Primus brands at the top of the of Prosecco. As it attracts more our estates in both Casablanca Chilean ladder is well underway and and more drinkers into the category and Colchagua have undergone there are exciting times ahead. they will start to tier of the basic some new plantings recently, with style and start to look for more of a Prosecco which is finer, dryer, and more expensive. This will then lead drinkers into other sparkling Italian wine. Could it be the come back of Lambrusco?! Matthew Clark | Vini | 41 Do you have any queries regarding a particular wine, grape or varietal? Would you like to speak to someone about your wine list? Get in touch with us [email protected]