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2 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 24, 2009 WWD.COM Loss Propels Strategy Shift at Ann Taylor By Alexandra Steigrad WwDAccessories/Innerwear/LegwearMonday AnnTaylor Stores Corp. intends to shift its emphasis to promotions and away from FASHION markdowns after swinging to a second-quarter Whether in loose wovens, patterned sheers loss, principally on weakness in its namesake 6 or solid opaques, legwear in saturated tones division and restructuring charges. add some pep to a step for spring. The company, which expects the current dif- ficult conditions to continue to pressure sales as GENERAL consumers stray from higher-end and profession- The outlines of the world beyond the recession al apparel, said it would increase in-store promo- 1 are coming into focus and the result can be tions on select items while limiting markdowns. summed up in one phrase: less will be more. In a phone interview with WWD, president and chief executive officer Kay Krill said this 3 Fashion Targets Breast Cancer, celebrating its approach would highlight the “versatility and 15th anniversary, is teaming up with QVC to value” of Ann Taylor, the company’s higher- launch QVC Designer Charms for Charity. priced chain. With trade ties with the U.S. and other nations “I think she [the customer] is hoping 3 strained, China is working to reassure the world to see a competitive price to see she’s it’s still the best place for foreign investors. getting a deal,” Krill said, noting AnnTaylor Stores Corp. saw a items such as cardigans, which can Kay 38 percent drop in comp-store 3 The International Trade Commission found that be worn with different looks, will Krill sales in the second quarter. imports of certain woven ribbon from China be promoted below their original and Taiwan were dumped on the U.S. market. price. “I think that’s a better strat- riod. Excluding $31.1 million in INNERWEAR: An outdoor swimming pool will egy than markdowns.” pretax restructuring charges, s 8 give a nod to a bumped up beachwear focus Krill said the Ann Taylor division EPS was 6 cents, 3 cents above at the upcoming Mode City show in Paris. would have select full-priced promo- the Wall Street consensus esti- tions, in addition to testing storewide mate carried by Yahoo Finance. 9 ACCESSORIES: Rebecca Minkoff is coming out interest to drive traffic, particularly on Net sales declined 20.6 percent from behind her studded handbags to connect the weekends. to $470.2 million, from $592.3 million a with customers and grow her business. “What I want to get across is that we have year earlier, as quarterly gross margin was 52.4 Invista Inc. has joined forces with Lane Bryant very versatile, fashionable items for customers percent of sales, even with last year, because of 12 of all ages,” she said, noting the company has “conservatively positioned inventory and im- stores to create the Cacique Back Smoothing downplayed its dressier items going into fall proved performance at Loft.” Bra using Lycra 2.0 tape garment technology. and holiday. “No one is buying something for “We have strategically positioned our fall EYE one occasion.” merchandise receipt plans conservatively, with With a 38 percent decline in quarterly com- an emphasis on preserving gross margin in a 4 The madness surrounding the collections doesn’t parable-store sales, the Ann Taylor brand has soft consumer spending environment that is ex- start until next month, but Calvin Klein’s soiree at “clearly felt” the impact of the economy, she pected to continue to affect our top line,” Krill Saks felt like a warm-up to fashion week. said. This was partially offset by “better-than- told analysts on a Friday morning conference Classified Advertisements...... 14-15 expected” sales at the company’s value-orient- call, adding that third-quarter sales and gross To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is ed chain, Loft, as shoppers were enticed by the margin rates are expected to improve slightly [email protected], using the individual’s name. store’s “newness,” especially in the knit and from the second quarter. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 woven categories, Krill said. With emphasis on Investors were encouraged by both the com- FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. leaner inventories, Loft experienced a 15.4 per- pany’s performance and its assessment and sent VOLUME 198, NO. 40. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in March, April, June and cent comp decrease for the quarter, giving the shares up 62 cents, or 4.8 percent, to $13.44 in August, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance company a total comp decline of 22.5 percent. trading Friday. As recently as July 13, they’d Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé According to Jeffries & Co. Inc. retail analyst traded below $7. Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and Randal Konik: “In our view, second-half sales For the first half, Ann Taylor had a net loss of at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services need to improve materially for shares to move $20.3 million, or 36 cents a share, versus a profit Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO higher. We believe Loft is on a positive path of $55.1 million, or 93 cents a share, in the com- West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK while Ann remains a work in progress.” parable 2008 period. Revenues slid 24.2 percent ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or For the quarter ended Aug. 1, the New York- to $897 million from $1.18 billion. visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the based firm reported a net loss of $18 million, or The retailer this year plans to close 53 stores Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, 32 cents a diluted share, versus a profit of $29.3 and open 14 stores, shrinking its total square you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy million, or 50 cents a share in the year-ago pe- footage by about 3.6 percent. of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or Nike, Hilfiger Among Ponzi Scheme Victims call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, lion, respectively. However, Rakoff also ordered PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, By Matthew Lynch PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS that Dreier make good with smaller investors in- SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER Confessed Ponzi scheme operator cluding apparel firms Nike, owed $243,124; Coogi MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. Marc Dreier famously targeted investment funds Partners LLC, owed $47,650, and Adidas America for large portions of his near $400 million fraud. Inc., owed $6,258. But his con also took several fashion players, in- The 24-name list included a handful of other DAILY cluding Nike Inc., Tommy Hilfiger USA Inc. and fashion firms owed less than $5,000, such as If we sold 10 of Diesel USA Inc., for smaller sums, according to a Tommy Hilfiger, Diesel, Seven For All Mankind, “ list of victims released in federal court last week. Rock & Republic Enterprises Inc. and Nautica QUote something in the old days, The once-prominent head of Dreier LLP was Apparel Inc. sentenced to 20 years in prison last month after Court records did not immediately make we would make 12 and count on reorders. pleading guilty to charges including conspiracy, clear how Dreier is to pay back his victims, money laundering and wire fraud for selling though Rakoff ordered, in a July 17 ruling, Now if we sell 10, we make eight and hundreds of millions of dollars in bogus promis- that he forfeit millions of dollars worth of sory notes to investors. cash and property. chase the business. I’d rather have missed On Aug. 19, Judge Jed Rakoff, of U.S. District The 10-page list of assets included bank ac- Court in Manhattan ordered that Dreier also counts, homes in the Hamptons and West Indies, a sale than have an unsold garment. pay restitution to his victims. Hedge funds Elliot an Aston Martin and a collection of contempo- Associates LP and Fortress Investment Group rary art that featured works by Andy Warhol and — Marty Staff, chief executive officer of” JA Apparel, topped the list, owed $99.9 million and $84.4 mil- Damien Hirst. on the new normal. Page one.

TODAY ON coming this week TUESDAY: Yarn Expo, Shanghai report second-quarter sales WWD.com (through Thursday). and earnings. • More images from the Calvin Klein • The Conference Board party at Saks Fifth Avenue and releases the Consumer THURSDAY: American Eagle r Charlotte Ronson’s party for J.C. Penney Confidence Index for August. Outfitters Inc. and Delia’s Inc. hne • Casual Male Retail report second-quarter sales Eic • Trend Report: Holiday 2010 Ts

e Group Inc. and Chico’s Inc. and earnings. v e t • New Featured Images: The Week in Parties report second-quarter sales • Bebe Stores Inc. reports y S

b • WWD Blog: Mary Giuliani on catering in the and earnings. fourth-quarter and year-end o t Hamptons and for the fashion crowd sales and earnings.

Pho WEDNESDAY: Charming Shoppes Kathryn Neale Shaffer, Lauren Santo Domingo, Alexa Chung, • Additional renderings of Chanel’s Inc., Coldwater Creek Inc. FRIDAY: Tiffany & Co. reports Francisco Costa, Elettra Wiedemann and Melissa George. in-store boutique at Selfridges and New York & Company Inc. second-quarter sales and earnings. WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 24, 2009 3 WWD.COM FTBC, QVC Team for Charm Initiative Foreign Investment in China Drops By Marc Karimzadeh By Kathleen E. McLaughlin against China for blocking imports of in- ternational movies and publications and a Fashion Targets Breast Cancer is celebrating its 15th BEIJING — With its trade ties with the United subsequent ruling by the U.S. International anniversary this year, and to mark the occasion, the charitable program of States and other countries strained, and the glob- Trade Commission over textile products (see the Council of Fashion Designers of America is teaming up with QVC and al financial crisis not yet over, China is working related story, below). China is appealing the launching QVC Designer Charms for Charity. to reassure the world it remains the best place WTO decision. The U.S. must also decide The monthlong initiative on the for foreign investors to park their capital. soon whether to impose tariffs on Chinese TV shopping network will offer spe- Despite deep declines in foreign invest- tires that would reduce imports. cially designed charms by CFDA ment, analysts say the textiles and apparel The U.S. government has also expressed members who are already part of industry is bound to recover and begin see- concern about China’s July arrests of four QVC’s regular roster, including Stan ing new investment as soon as the world’s executives of the Australian mining giant Rio Herman, Marc Bouwer, Anthony economy gets back on its feet. They note even Tinto, later charged with corporate spying Nak, Bradley Bayou, Dean Harris though China has lost some of its competitive and bribery and now awaiting trial. In a news and Victor Costa, to benefit FTBC. edge, no other country is poised to completely conference in Washington, D.C., on Aug. 13, a “QVC is a great partner be- take its place in large-scale manufacturing. spokesman for the U.S. State Department said cause of the reach it has and a The Chinese government last week re- the Rio Tinto case and China’s lack of trans- customer base that is really loyal leased new figures showing the country’s for- parency could affect foreign investment. to the designers that sell on QVC,” eign direct investment, or FDI, fell by 35.7 per- “China and how it reacts to cases like this said Steven Kolb, executive direc- cent in July from the same month a year ago. will have a bearing on the international busi- tor of the CFDA. “Each [designer] The decline marked a continuing pattern that ness climate and the willingness of individu- did a charm that was inspired by began with the onset of the credit crunch last al businesses to invest in China,” said State something in their life and is very fall, with 10 months in a row of falling foreign Department spokesman Philip J. Crowley. personal to the designers.” direct investment in China. Although the gov- The Rio Tinto case, he said, “seems to Claire Watts, president of U.S. ernment has been pushing long-term economic raise questions about its business interac- Veronica WebbWebb starsstars inin thethe commerce for QVC, said, “Not only development for more homegrown innovation tions with businesses and with countries, campaign toto celebratecelebrate thethe is it a great way for our shopper to and domestic consumer demand to wean itself obviously, that can have a bearing in terms 15th anniversaryanniversary ofof FashionFashion purchase one of these exclusive off a reliance on exports, China remains heav- of willingness of firms around the world to Targets BreastBreast Cancer.Cancer. charms, but it also allows them to ily dependent on foreign direct investment. invest in China in the future.” give back to a great organization.” “We still need a lot of foreign es

The charms will be priced from about $20 to $100 and 100 percent of net investment, that’s for sure,” g ma I proceeds will go to FTBC. The program will launch at QVC.com on Sept. 1 said Lu Yayong, of the China

and the pieces will be promoted during QVC’s New York Fashion Week broad- Research Center of Foreign tty

casts, scheduled from Sept. 10 to 16. Depending on the supply, the charms will Direct Investment. “With too s/Ge be available at the QVC site until the end of September. little capital invested in private FTBC was founded by Ralph Lauren after he met the late fashion critic businesses and the country’s hoto

Nina Hyde and promised her to rally the fashion industry to fight cancer. high savings rate, foreign invest- ina P h Since its launch, the program has extended to 11 international partners and ment is very important for the given almost $50 million to breast cancer charities worldwide. development of this economy. Designers Management Agency helped put together the deal between “It also introduces new C PHOTO BY QVC and the CFDA. ideas and advanced technolo- Nigel Barker — best known as the photographer judge on “America’s Next gies into China, and helps Top Model” — shot the campaign to mark the anniversary. Veronica Webb is maintain the strength of the featured in the black-and-white images, which were styled by Leslie Fremar and market,” said Lu. Foreign direct investment in China show the model wearing a charm of the original FTBC logo created by Lauren. Yet recent developments in fell by 35.7 percent in July. “The idea was to create a campaign in the tradition of past campaigns,” several areas have posed a po- Kolb said. tential threat to China’s posi- Fremar, who also styles Julianne Moore, tapped the actress to design a spe- tion as the world’s leading destination for FDI. Song Hong, an economist with the Chinese cial charm with Robert Lee Morris, who also created a charm of his own. While many say the slide in FDI is partly due Academy of Social Sciences, said the Rio Tinto “The concept is that you get the FTBC charm that you buy with the neck- to government controls on unapproved foreign case could actually help China’s investment cli- lace or bracelet, and hopefully, as the program gets introduced over the currency flows, there is little doubt the global mate in the long run. Although the charges have course of a few weeks, you will buy additional charms and eventually have economic slump has left a deep impression. not been laid out in detail, the company main- a collection of them,” Kolb said. “The textile industry takes in a consid- tains its employees are innocent and nobody erable amount of foreign investment,” said has been convicted, Song said a tough ruling on Wang Rong, a textiles industry analyst at Rio Tinto could help deliver a message. FASHION SCOOPS United Securities in Shenzhen. “As factories “The handling of the case may deliver a lost orders during the crisis, a lot of foreign good message to investors, that is China re- BUSH LEAGUE: Lauren Bush and Vanity investment was withdrawn, which led to clo- spects rules of the market and there is law to Fair will host the launch of the new sures of factories.” abide,” said Song. Feed Health backpack at the Kenneth Wang said many factories have now re- Industry analyst Wang is confident invest- Cole store in Santa Monica, Calif., sumed production, thanks in part to govern- ment will return to China’s manufacturing Wednesday. The new bag design is ment stimulus spending but, “they are not sector once recovery takes hold globally. a partnership between Bush’s Feed necessarily making money.” “Foreign investors are still very careful Projects, designer Kenneth Cole’s In recent weeks, trade tensions with the now,” said Wang. “When the situation comes Awearness initiative and Dr. Jeffrey United States have scaled up, in particular clearer, I think they will come back into Sachs’ Millennium Villages community with a World Trade Organization decision the industry.” health worker program. For each $125 bag sold, another bag will be provided to a traveling health care worker in sub-Saharan Africa, filled with medical supplies such as bandages, syringes, Feed Projects co-founders Lauren Bush and ITC Rules China Dumped Ribbon on U.S. condoms, a scale to weigh newborns, Ellen Gustafson with a Millennium Villages training manuals and a cell phone. community health worker wearing the new By Liza Casabona Dumping occurs when a foreign company “Our goal was to make a bag that backpacks in Uganda. sells a product in the U.S. below fair market is useful and stylish — and that will WASHINGTON — The U.S. International Trade value or less than the cost of manufactur- help us provide an identical bag with necessary supplies in it to over 900 community Commission voted unanimously on Friday to ing. In cases where the ITC determines that health workers in Africa,” said Bush. “And what’s great about this bag is that both move forward with the first trade remedy case dumping has occurred, it imposes antidump- guys and girls can use this. We’ve been known for our burlap shoulder bag, which is a involving textile products from China since ing duties. Subsidies occur when a foreign bit feminine, but this is a unisex design.” quotas were lifted at the end of last year. government offers financial assistance to The idea for the project came about when both Bush’s Feed Projects work — which has The ITC found that imports of “nar- companies that go against bilateral or global raised $5 million for the U.N.’s World Food Program — and Sachs were profiled in Cole’s row woven ribbon with woven selvage” trade rules, and if confirmed, can trigger the recently published book, “Awearness: Inspiring Stories About How to Make a Difference.” from China and Taiwan injured or posed imposition of countervailing duties. The new Feed Health backpack will be sold in select Kenneth Cole stores, a threat of injury to domestic companies. The case will next move to Commerce’s beginning Thursday, and online at kennethcole.com and awearness.com. Kenneth The ruling clears the way for the Commerce Import Administration, which will make a Cole also has created a T-shirt that benefits both the Feed Health and Awearness Department’s Import Administration to move preliminary countervailing duty determina- organizations and will be sold at all domestic Kenneth Cole stores. ahead with its parallel investigation. tion on Oct. 2 and a preliminary antidumping “What Dr. Jeffrey Sachs has done and is doing to combat world poverty and put The products covered by the decision in- determination on Dec. 16. If the Commerce a halt to the spread of infectious diseases and Lauren’s support of his efforts is a clude certain woven ribbon used for embel- Department findings are also affirmative, the message we are proud to be able to tell,” said Cole. lishing apparel or decorative purposes like case goes back to the ITC for the determina- gift wrapping. tion of final remedies. ON THE DEFENSE: Georges Marciano, an entrepreneur running for governor of California The initial complaint was filed at the ITC Julia Hughes, senior vice president of as an Independent who last month was found liable for about $370 million in on July 9 by Berwick Offray LLC and its sub- international trade for the U.S. Association damages in a defamation suit, said he would ask the state’s Superior Court to sidiary, Lion Ribbon Co., alleging China and of Importers of Textiles & Apparel, said the review and reduce the jury award, which he described as “outrageously” excessive. Taiwan subsidized the ribbon imports and case may not set a precedent for all textiles Marciano, who co-founded Guess Inc. and left the firm in 1992, said the defamation dumped them onto the U.S. market. The doc- and apparel, but the decision could have suit brought by former employees was baseless. “I have faith in our legal system that, ument referenced the lifting of quotas, which some impact on the industry. in the end, justice will prevail,” he said. “So I am in this fight to the end — whatever ended a three-year U.S.-China agreement to “People were watching [this case] close- it takes, wherever I have to take my case to be heard. That’s what is most important limit imports on a range of apparel and tex- ly…as a potential barometer for future to me: to have my day in court, to make my case, and then let justice prevail.” tile products, as a key factor in the case. cases,” Hughes said. 4 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 24, 2009 WWD.COM

s Mischa Barton in a Topshop A Mighty Heart skirt. The madness surrounding the collections doesn’t start until next month, but Calvin Klein’s Thursday-night soiree at Saks Fifth Avenue surely felt like a warm-up to New York Fashion Week. Music was pumping, the Champagne was flowing and the fashion flock — including hosts Lauren Santo Domingo, Elettra Wiedemann, Alexa Chung, Jessica Joffe and Kathryn Neale, as well as Jennifer Creel and Zani Gugelmann — came out to celebrate the brand’s new second-floor boutique with Francisco Costa. “I heard the chatter coming up the elevator,” Saks’ Ron Frasch said. “Isn’t it amazing?” said Costa, scanning the scene in the all-white shop. “It’s the right vibe.” Costa said he also was hoping for people to shop — and at least a few found time to rifle through the clothes suspended from the ceiling. “I love this space,” Melissa George said. “I’m going to buy a couple of pieces. I am going to London tomorrow and need it for my trip.” Downtown, Charlotte Ronson threw a raucous summer barbecue Melissa George for her I [Heart] Ronson line for J.C. Penney. A gaggle of PYTs, and Elettra including Mischa Barton (in town filming the “The Beautiful Life”), Olivia Wiedemann, both Thirlby, Zoe Kravitz, Eva Amurri, Sophia Bush and Hilary Duff filed into the in Calvin Klein Lighthouse at Chelsea Piers for the summer-themed event, which featured campy Collection. touches such as an indoor beach volleyball court, cotton candy machines and hot pink grills. Ronson’s mom, Ann Dexter-Jones; brother, Mark Ronson, and sisters, Samantha Ronson and Annabelle Dexter-Jones, were on hand to lend their support. “I love you, Charlotte,” Mark yelled to the crowd before British band The Rumble Strips took to the stage. The biggest attraction of the evening was Charlotte’s Closet, a pop-up boutique stocked with pieces from Ronson’s line, for which VIP guests received a coupon good for one free item. “I’m just going to show them my ticket and say, ‘I designed this entire Charlotte Ronson in collection, so give me one of everything, please,’” said Charlotte with a laugh. her own design with Samantha Ronson.

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makes everyone think, including me, “well, really he believes exactly everything I believe and really he would like to do exactly all the things that I would like him to do.” As Shawn’S PEN almost everybody thinks it, it can’t be true in Since the late Seventies, Wallace Shawn has appeared as an actor in more everybody’s case. So far he’s done hundreds than 100 movies and television shows, written plays that have been performed on and off of things I don’t approve of, or even violently Broadway, and been largely responsible for one of the most famous avant-garde films of the dislike, and he hasn’t done things that I was Eighties, “My Dinner With Andre.” Next month, the writer and actor — whose father was William deeply thrilled by, although he’s said many Shawn, the legendary editor of The New Yorker from 1952 to 1987 — is releasing an anthology things that I’ve been quite thrilled by. of his musings, “Essays,” through Haymarket Books. — Jacob Bernstein WWD: Are you more often disappointed in WWD: About two-thirds of your book is devoted to the war in Iraq, the conflict in Israel and issues people than pleased by them? surrounding U.S. imperialism. You even say that you are not truly proud to be an American, and W.S.: I’m not often disappointed. Marilyn see nationalism as something akin to pornography. Does there exist any possibility that life in Monroe was constantly getting excited about America is — while not without its faults — a lot better than a lot of other places? people and thinking that they were fantastic, Wallace Shawn: Well, I must say a hundred times in the book that our lives are absolutely terrific. marvelous people that were going to be I’m not complaining about our lives. I’m complaining about other people’s lives. The point I’m different than anyone that she’d ever met. making is what price are other people paying for our happiness? And I’m critical of our life in the Then they would say one or two wrong things sense that we have wonderful experiences, but we don’t have power over our own affairs. I’m a and hurt her feelings and she would go into a member of the public just like you, and we don’t have power over our own destiny. despair. I don’t think I’m like that. I’m more frequently pleased than disillusioned. WWD: There is a sense in the book about the powerlessness of individuals in America to effect change. I found your arguments about imperialism and nationalism very easy to follow, but this WWD: So you expect little from people and are notion that everything is out of our control I found somewhat confusing. Wallace then pleasantly surprised when they exceed W.S.: Well, the situation is hard to describe. If the American public would rise up and demand Shawn your low expectations? the end of a war in Afghanistan, we could probably have that. W.S.: I don’t expect the German or Polish If the American public would rise up and say we would like a neighbor to hide the Jewish family in their single-payer health care system, we could have it. So it’s not quite basement and risk being killed. I don’t think the same kind of dictatorship as — to take a clichéd example I’m not complaining about our lives. I’m most people would do that. I wish they would, — North Korea. And yet, because such a large proportion of the but most people don’t. And if I hear of the people believe the propaganda that is fed to them, that type of “complaining about other people’s lives. ­ family that did take in the Jewish family and demand does not take place. hide them and feed them, then I’m pleased and ” I’m moved. WWD: Has anything about the election of Barack Obama made you more optimistic about the future? W.S.: I was quite thrilled that Obama was elected, not because of optimism about the future WWD: In the last year and a half you’ve been on “Gossip Girl,” “The L Word,” “Law & Order,” but because it indicated that the American public was fed up with the Bush years. It told the “Life on Mars” and “ER.” Not bad for a guy pushing 70. Do you say no to much? world that there was more to us than Bush. And electing a person of color to be president was W.S.: First of all, I’m 65; I’m not “pushing 70.” I used to be offered a broader variety of things, not something that a lot of people would have expected. It showed something again that upset so I said no to more. But I have my own sense of what is morally or politically nauseating to hostile clichés about America. And how great. me. I’ve turned down a lot of things that hit that line of too nauseating. Otherwise, as far as something being too “ridiculous,” I do it. I’ve done some things that are very silly and idiotic, WWD: I sense a but coming. but I felt that I was not making the world a worse place by doing them. Some people say “Gossip W.S.: So far, the new President has not actually done things that are as dramatically different Girl” inculcates bad values in people, but when I look at it, those buttons are not pushed. I don’t from what Bush would have done, as some people expected. There’s something about him that ever think, “this scene offends me.” A COMMUNITY OF STYLE AND SUBSTANCE

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I<>@JK@:FEC@E<%:FD FI8K/..%,,+%+/*+ 6 WWD, monday, august 24, 2009

Bright is right for spring. Whether in loose wovens, patterned sheers or solid opaques, legwear in saturated tones add some pep to a step. — Court Williams

From left: Tights by Falke, Soxland International and Hue, all in nylon and spandex. On model: DKNY’s nylon and spandex compression shorts and Chinese Laundry’s cotton, nylon and spandex socks. Adrienne Vittadini tank; Walter skirt; Tuk shoes. WWD, monday, august 24, 2009 7 WWD.COM roberts elissa assistant: fashion patrick; susanna assistant: photo cosmetics; mac for facto de at murphy william by makeup wright; daria by hair torres/elite;

Photo by Kyle Ericksen catherine model: 8 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 24, 2009 WWD.COM Innerwear Report

…the Club Bing trend that goes For more illustrations, for sexy black For more illustrations, corsets in shiny see WWD.com. materials…

Among the trends at Mode City are the Wake Up trend, which focuses on white and powdery shades with spicy accents… Mode City Heads to the Beach By Katya Foreman PARIS — An outdoor swimming pool will give a nod to a bumped-up beachwear focus at the upcoming Mode City intimates and swimwear salon, set to run Sept. 5 to 7 at Paris’ Porte de Versailles. Show manager Séverine Marchesi said it’s one of the few sectors that continues to register growth in France. Citing an upbeat mood among intimate apparel exhibitors, several key corsetry brands will be back at the event, including Lou and Huit. “All of the big players are confirmed,” Marchesi said. “There hasn’t been a flagrant decrease in exhibitors, though many brands have downsized booths.” She added in view of the economy and the weak dollar, fewer U.S. retailers are ex- pected to attend. For the first time, the fair will feature a separate trend forum called Dynamic Beach, which will be dedicated to the swimwear category and will showcase 10 innovative swim- wear prototypes for summer 2011 conceived by mill and designer teams. Trend forums at the fair’s Interfilière textiles section will include areas titled Beach Innovation and Let’s Go Slow. The latter will include a From the Archives corner that …the Market Day will showcase vintage swatches from a number of leading mills, including Noyon, Oskar trend, which features Hämmerle and Bischoff Textil, alongside new interpretations of archive designs. satin, pretty florals “The idea is to encourage a return to creativity and solid values,” said Hélène Genter, and bursts of color… Interfilière’s project manager. First-time exhibitors will include Ayten Gasson, a luxury artisanal lingerie label, and Nardis Beach, both from Britain, as well as Raffaela D’Angelo, a new Italian beachwear …and the House Work trend, and ready-to-wear brand licensed to Valery. which dwells on masculine- Luxury French innerwear and beachwear brand Laurence Tavernier is one of a num- feminine combinations. ber of firms returning to the trade fair, which saw a 25 percent uptick of visitors in 2008, according to show officials. “The fact that the salon is now based in Paris instead of Lyon has encouraged us to go back,” said Marie Darmuzey, export manager for Laurence Tavernier. “They’ve also rede- signed the whole layout. It’s a vital platform for us to have access to international buyers.” The brand’s spring collection will include a range of innerwear and loungewear in bright prints and stripes as well as a bulked-up swimwear offer. New to the Mode City event will be a section dedicated to confectioners and manu- facturers based in the Euro-Mediterranean zone, dubbed The Club Made in Euromed. Other initiatives will include an agents’ club, where five brands will hold merchandising workshops geared toward retailers. Participants include Empreinte, Save the Queen, Valery, Maryan Mehlhorn and Seafolly. Two catwalk shows will take place each day, showing lingerie and spa-inspired prod- ucts in the morning and beachwear in the afternoon. Conference themes at the event will include the economic crisis, the spa market and marketing and trends for the 2010-11 winter season presented by Promostyl. There will also be information on the lingerie and beachwear market in Tunisia. Meanwhile, a quirky giant popcorn box will greet visitors to the fair’s Interfilière section, along with a boutique concept of the new lace museum in Calais, France. The section will host around 40 new exhibitors, including European Stretch Fabrics, a French specialist in performance swimwear fabrics that is broadening its reach; Albert Bosch, an Austrian specialist in trimmings, tulle and embroidery, and Michele Letizia, an Italian firm specializing in ribbons, laces and elastic fabrics. Technical innerwear specialist Liebaert will launch its first full range of textiles geared to the beachwear sector. Mills feting anniversaries at the show will include Switzerland’s Union AG, French silk manufacturer Perrin & Fils, and German bra cup manufacturer Muehlmeier, mark- ing 250, 80 and 60 years, respectively. WWD, monday, august 24, 2009 9 WWD.COM Accessories Report Minkoff Gets Social for Growth By Caroline Tell photograph was snapped of Lauren Conrad wear- ing Minkoff ’s Studded Rocker bag. The next day, Rebecca Minkoff wants to become the face in front of the name. Minkoff sold 300 bags to her top accounts. The contemporary accessories designer is coming out from behind her studded hand- Minkoff is also solidifying her relationship bags to connect with customers and grow her business. with retailers after breaking ties with the Cynthia With 50 percent growth year-over-year and a sales goal of $30 million in O’Connor showroom earlier this month and the next three years, Minkoff feels her signature brand is hitting its stride. taking sales in-house. Now at the helm of Known for adorning young, fashion-forward consumers with colorful her business, Minkoff is focused on launch- handbags and clutches ranging from $195 to $595, the firm is building a ing exclusives with her top accounts, such fan base through social-media tools, including online videos and Web as Saks Fifth Avenue, Shopbop.com and centeno alaya blogs. It recently took sales in-house and launched new categories, Rebecca Bloomingdale’s, where she’ll operate a T such as customized bridal bags and apparel. Minkoff’s pop-up shop during New York Fashion In today’s economy, Minkoff finds it increasingly important to build signature “Zip Week in September.

Morning After Rebecca Minkoff by ortrait a personal relationship with consumers and retailers. She joins “We loved Cynthia and the showroom P other accessories designers who have recently taken to the blogo- Bag” and and have nothing but positive things sphere, such as Anna Sheffield, designer of Bing Bang/Anna studded belt. to say, but it was a decision that we needed to make to help build our Sheffield Jewelry, and Jessie Randall, president and cre- brand,” said Ori Minkoff, Rebecca’s brother and chief executive ative director at Loeffler Randall. officer of the firm. “We realized we needed to own that relation- “We asked ourselves, ‘How we can better drive ship with stores and have them get to know Rebecca.” attention to consumers to help push them into the With a capsule apparel collection bowing for spring and stores?’” Minkoff said. “We want to use social media a full range coming in fall 2010, Minkoff ’s intentions extend to understand what our customer wants as well as beyond handbags. The designer created a small belt and help our retailers. We want to ensure that our prod- bracelet line for holiday and will bow a customized bridal uct sells and we want to work with our retailers as bag collection, “I Do,” in September. The four bridal styles much as we can.” retail between $195 and $215. She foresees penning a li- In addition to operating her own Facebook censed shoe agreement in the next three years. and Twitter pages, Minkoff recently launched But for now, Minkoff is focused on her handbags Minkette.com, a social networking site where she and on her customers, with whom she plans to and her friends share their favorite pastimes, keep in close contact. city dwellings or cool events happening around “When there’s turmoil and chaos in the market, town. The site enlisted close to 5,000 members and when old things stop working, you need to seize in its first 10 days. Minkoff also uses the site the moment and become a leader,” Minkoff said. “We to chat one-on-one with customers and post are intent on remaining a stable point for retailers and editorial and celebrity clippings. In May, a becoming a leader in the contemporary, luxury space.”

FINDINGS A style from Nanette Runsdorf Adds Slices of Color MORE LEPORE: Nanette Lepore is Lepore’s launching a footwear collection for spring footwear By Sophia Chabbott with Peter Marcus Group, set to hit collection. NSR Nina stores in February. The line features 25 Nina Runsdorf, a Runsdorf styles, including wedges, heels and flats, forerunner of incorporat- earrings with made of such materials as metallic and ing diamond slices in her pink sapphire patent leather and snakeskin. Beading signature line NSR Nina slices and will also be infused across the collection, Runsdorf, is introducing diamonds. matching similar beadwork from the the company’s first col- spring apparel line. lection in color. The firm launched a smaller capsule Diamond slices were shoe collection two years ago, but once used for industrial now expects the licensed category to purposes and they appear encompass 20 percent of its business. in amorphous shapes and “We have partnered with Peter Marcus Group to leverage their product development and myriad shades of white production capabilities, and, of course, for their fantastic reputation in the and gray, from a cloudy footwear business,” said Heather Pech, chief executive officer of Nanette looking shard of glass Lepore. “Our combined resources enable us to capitalize on the opportunity to a crystalline drop of in the contemporary footwear arena.” water. They were once Nanette Lepore footwear will retail from The ck Calvin considered waste ma- $195 to $350 at select stores, such as Klein USB terial within the jew- Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus, Memory elry industry, but today Nina Runsdorf and Nanette Lepore boutiques. Frame. they are harder to find and costlier than just a few CYBER EYES: Ck Calvin Klein is fusing years ago due to increased demand from other brands. Runsdorf spent nearly a year de- fashion and technology by launching an veloping cutting techniques to create slices of colored precious gemstones such as rubies, eyewear style featuring a 4GB USB port star sapphires and even emeralds, which are known to be a soft, fragile stone. located in the right temple of the frame. This “I fell in love with their organic beauty,” said Runsdorf of her fascination with slices, eyewear evolution allows for convenient transport which she typically sets in a custom-made bezel coated in pavé diamonds. Each piece is one of data-digital information, pictures, media clips and of a kind due to the irregularity of the stones. music. Designed for men and women, the eyewear comes At first, Runsdorf said, “The retailers were very intrigued, but few were ready to in two styles with three color choices and will hit specialty commit to slices as they are now. The consumer loved the idea of organic diamonds stores in October for a retail price of $199. that are understated, yet hold a strong presence when worn.” The colored collection includes star sapphire pendant earrings with micro pavé INTIMATE EYEWEAR: The Natori Co. hosted a cocktail party diamond details, pink sapphire slice earrings, which are rose cut on top for a glittering at its Manhattan offices and showrooms Aug. 12 to celebrate its surface, and a ruby ring set in yellow gold. Prices range from $4,500 to $25,000 at retail, licensing pact with Zyloware Eyewear, an 86-year-old firm that will produce, with an average of $12,000. The look is less flashy than a traditionally cut and polished market and distribute the first collection of Natori Eyewear. stone, a characteristic that bodes well for Runsdorf ’s clients who continue to shop, The collection will be formally launched at the Vision Expo West trade fair in Las Vegas but are looking for pieces that aren’t ostentatious. that runs Oct. 1 to 3, and will feature 12 optical and five styles of sunglasses, as well as a Neiman Marcus, Meridian in Aspen, Col., Judith range of prescriptive choices. The optical eyewear will wholesale from $79.95 to $89.95, For more images, Anne in Houston, and London Jewelers are among the and the sunglasses will sell for $89.95. The frames, which include mother-of-pearl inlays, see WWD.com . jewelry boutiques that have picked up the collection. Swarovski crystals and animal prints, will be distributed nationwide at select eye care Runsdorf declined to divulge sales projections practitioners this fall. for the line. Describing the collection, Christopher Shyer, president of the Queens, N.Y.-based Zyloware, A native of New York, Runsdorf has had a long said, “Josie Natori is unique in her fashion perspective. She not only designs for a consumer career in fashion with stints at Ralph Lauren, need, she designs for a woman who has a desire to buy something special for herself. It may Banana Republic as accessories director and have emanated from years of Wathne, where she helped launch the accessories consumers putting their money

firm as fashion director. Mitra obert in Natori undergarments and She’d dabbled in jewelry design in the past but R sleepwear. Between Zyloware’s delved into the fine jewelry realm when she took expertise and Natori’s a job working for Runsdorf Inc., the venerable signature patterns, textures diamond jewelry firm owned by her father-in-law, and sensibilities, we have Runsdorf’s multicolored sapphire Lee Runsdorf, whose family’s roots in the diamond Eyewear by melded the two strengths into

cuff with diamonds. trade go back 32 generations. Jewelry photos by Natori. a unique viewpoint.” 10 WWD, monday, august 24, 2009 Vendors Address the New Normal Continued from page one “Weeding out is a reality in the marketplace when times are tough. At this point, That will be what will be required to adapt. But to survive, vendors and retailers being lean is the best way for retailers to be, so it would be more risky to do will have to ensure there is less duplication, faster turnarounds and more exclusive, nothing.” — Max Azria, designer and ceo, BCBG Max Azria Group innovative product to excite shoppers. Here, WWD canvasses manufacturers, analysts and consultants on the key factors “Inventory is a variable of demand. Since the buying power of our consumer is that will drive the age of the New Normal. currently reduced, having less inventory on the floor…allows us to focus on full- price selling and operate a cleaner business. When the initial wholesale buy is re- INVENTORY REDUCTIONS duced, there is even more pressure on the buyers to select trend-right product that Retailers are cutting inventories by 15 percent or more from a year ago, meaning reduced fits, that is delivered on time and with high perceived value.”— Beth Bugdaycay, ceo, orders for vendors, as well. Small manufacturers are the most vulnerable as merchants Rebecca Taylor stick with tried-and-true labels to lure reluctant shoppers back into their stores. Although a painful process, the weeding out is a necessary one, most vendors believe, since it forces “It’s a lot better to lose a couple of sales than to be overinventoried. In this case, ‘less them to become more creative to make the cut. It also will benefit retailers as they are is more’ really is true. The industry is learning that the top line doesn’t matter, but the forced to edit their assortments and create a distinct point of view. bottom line counts.” — Allen Ellinger, senior managing partner, Marketing Management Group

“[Reducing inventory] is probably one of the healthiest measures being taken, not “Retailers want to keep inventory very tight, but at the same time you don’t want only to help profitability, but also to help the customer understand a store’s point of stores to look barren, and you don’t want them to be filled with the same things people view. Assortments have become too homogeneous. There needed to be some editing. saw last season — it will affect consumer perception. Plus, if you can’t meet customer It may take one or two more seasons to win needs, then they’ll go elsewhere to find what they are looking for. It can be a very fine back the shoppers’ trust in price-value ra- line that retailers have to walk.” — Christine Chen, retail analyst, Needham & Co. tios, but ultimately, our collective respon- sibility is to delight the customer. If we SELLING OUT keep our eye on that, she will return with For the retailer, it’s a balancing act between creating demand and disappointing conviction.” — Marion Davidson, president and the customer. Although stores are counting on being able to reorder midseason, that chief executive officer, Slane & Slane may not be possible, especially on fashion goods, since vendors have cut back as well so as not to be stuck with excess merchandise. Although Wall Street has traditionally “There was just too much stuff out there. looked at sellouts as missed opportunities, the recession has actually changed their Hopefully, retailers will start curating view. Keeping inventories in line is now their primary concern, both for retailers their stores more creatively, in a way that’s and suppliers. more specific to their customers and not be bound to the strange version of a ‘season’ “Retailers are trying to shift more of the risk to vendors. But for us, we don’t want to as defined by the current delivery cycle.” take a risk on someone else’s potential sale. We are going to make what they order — Scott Sternberg, designer, Band of Outsiders and there’s no guarantee that there will be more for them to order later in the season. and Boy It would be a bad business decision for us to take on more risk. In this environment, abc if you carry inventory and you’re wrong, the penalty is severe. It’s not worth the posfac- tory “Sometimes overassorted categories are sible upside.” — Doug Wood, president and chief operating officer, Tommy Bahama confusing. Narrow and deep is good for the retailer, and a very good thing for the ven- “Just like fashion trends, lean inventories can be overdone. I’m worried that retail- dors that continue to supply the retailer. It ers are going to disappoint customers. There comes a time when shoppers can’t gives them greater exposure.” — Jeff Rudes, find their size or aren’t seeing fresh trends abc store president and co-founder, J Brand in stores, and they get turned off. I used to factor in a little extra for reorders, but “For strong brands, these shifts are a now I’m actually factoring in possible can- good thing, as there will be opportuni- cellations. I’m not even buying 100 per- ties to increase market share as retailers cent of orders now. I’m nervous just like further consolidate vendors. The supply- the retailers are, and I don’t want to stock and-demand process is imperfect. There inventory.” — Karen Murray, president of the will be an overreaction on the reduction sportswear coalition, VF Corp. of inventories, which will be followed by an overreaction on increasing inventories “We keep our levels limited. We want to when the recovery builds momentum. In keep everyone hungry and have them the short term, lower inventories will cre- order more next time. Reorders used to be ate a much-needed sense of urgency for about 16 percent of our business, but we’ve consumers to shop earlier and pay full gotten very good at keeping our inven- price. It will take years to happen, but it tory very clean.” — Neal Kusnetz, president, also took many years for the U.S. to get Robert Graham into the massive oversupply state that we are currently in.” — Tom Murry, president “If we sold 10 of something in the old days, and ceo, Calvin Klein Inc. we would make 12 and count on reorders. THEN NOW Now if we sell 10, we make eight and chase “We’ve been overassorted in national the business. I’d rather have missed a sale brands and store brands for years. This than have an unsold garment.” has been driven by both retailers and man- — Marty Staff, ceo, JA Apparel ufacturers to meet various distribution It will never go back to the way it was because it’s and financial strategies. Unfortunately, an “ “These days, we have to be able to react to excellent example of this can be seen in a new game and these are new times, and it’s good things that are working. The biggest risk for the current crisis with the U.S. automo- retailers is that they won’t have enough of bile industry. It’s designed to meet short- because a lot of people that were in there shouldn’t the right product. No one will be holding term goals with often disastrous long-term inventories for retailers, and the buying consequences.” — Richard Leeds, chairman, have been. There was too much of everything. process has to be more focused.” Richard Leeds International Fashion drives the business, not volume.­­ — Chantal Bacon, ceo, Betsy Johnson “I think that the new disciplines we are all — Allen Schwartz, A.B.S. ”by Allen Schwartz “You cannot keep inventories lean and do executing over the last year will not and more with less. [A retailer] can be caught should not disappear. The painful learn- in the last quarter of the year running on ings on inventory controls, monitoring of our personal overhead and generally better- empty. There could be a big issue of destocking.” — Santiago Gonzalez, president of ing expense controls in total are a positive we will all take out of a very difficult time Nancy Gonzalez period for retailers and suppliers alike.” — Seth Morris, president, The Carole Hochman Design Group “I don’t think the inventory is going to drop too low. I think what is going to happen is that [retailers] are going to buy closer to the vest. They are going to need to have “Yes, there are risks, but it is about controlling the balance, reducing too much and support from suppliers to have speed to market. That is the survival-of-the-quickest missing sales or not being able to capitalize on trends [that] will hamper growth. You game.” — Jeff Rudes, J Brand do need to take risks. Most great successes started with risk and a balance.” — Michael A. Herman, senior vice president of sales, merchandising and production, Natori Co. “There is nothing wrong with creating demand by being out of stock on hot trend- ing items. It serves as a psychological stimulus.” — Seth Morris, The Carole Hochman “The market was oversaturated with vendors, product and retailers. There have been Design Group way too many brands and way too many products in a way that was unsustainable. By tightening the assortment, there will be still be many options.$180 Sometimes they don’t “The vendors, in my opinion, are not taking any risks, even for replenishment items. need 20 brands — 12 good ones make the same sales as 20. It is all about maximizing I think that when it sells out, it sells out. If it means some divisions have to be shut your [stockkeeping-unit] assortment so you still have enough variety to give people down, they will be. If the line is not something that is to die for, is there really a need what they want.” — Daniel Landver, ceo, Lucas Design International$130 for it to exist?” — Jennifer Black, analyst, Jennifer Black & Associates $100 WWD, monday, august 24, 2009 11 abc WWD.COM factory Vendors Address the New Normalabc store MARKDOWNS Full price doesn’t mean much anymore in light of in-season discounts that can hit 70 “If you look at who is doing extremely well, it is H&M, Zara, Forever 21, Topshop be- to 80 percent. As Dana Telsey of Telsey Advisory Group said recently: “Consumers of all cause they are giving a good value to the customer and they are completely vertical. income levels are looking for promotional prices. There’s a new way of shopping.” NPD They are making the margin that the wholesaler would make and they are making it reports that 52 percent of all merchandise is now sold at promotional pricing — five years on both ends. They make a lot larger margins with equal expenses as a department ago, 52 percent was sold at full price. The risk of such deep discounting is that original store. That is not to say the traditional retail will become obsolete. It is going to be- selling prices become meaningless and that, even once the economy recovers, consumers come more narrow.” — Daniel Landver, Lucas Design International will resist paying full price. “Forever 21’s ability to move quickly to bring fashionable product to the sales floor in “This [markdown trend] is going to be here for at least season, not unlike European retail counterparts Zara and H&M, is the model other through the end of the year. We will see a correction when retailers here might want to emulate. That’s the model that will prevail in this envi- business in general picks up. Right now in this reces- ronment.” — J. Michael Stanley, executive vice president, Rosenthal & Rosenthal sion we have trained consumers to shop when stores are promoting and on sale. Until the economy picks “Shoppers are very value conscious, but they certainly remain fashion conscious, up, these stores have to do what they have to do to too, so retailers are having to adjust to meet those expectations. This will be a new stay in business.” — Jeff Rudes, J Brand way of doing business. This is precisely why you see people looking for shorter lead times and faster turnaround — they’ve learned from the successes of the fast-fashion “Both the retailers and the vendors want to manage model.” — Christine Chen, Needham & Co. their inventory levels in order to garner as much full-price selling as there may be, and minimize the “The smart money today is being invested with Penney’s, Kohl’s, Target and Wal-Mart. markdown rate.” — Dana Telsey, chief research officer, Well-known designers are creating licensing deals to design original products within $180 Telsey Advisory Group the price points of those individual retailers.” — Richard Leeds, Richard Leeds International BUYING CLOSER TO NEED J.C. Penney is seeking to reduce its production time to $130 12 weeks from 25 weeks or more. And Penney’s is not alone. With retailers clamoring for faster turnaround, can vendors answer the call? Fashion firms say any- thing less than eight weeks is impossible to achieve due $100 to the demands of the production schedule. But those firms that produce in the U.S. have a leg up.

“The concept of retailers looking to buy closer to season generally favors a Made in America company. I believe it would be much harder, if not impossible, for overseas manufacturers to significantly reduce their turnaround cycle. For vendors with overseas abc production, belt tightening on the part of retailers may be a bad thing due to high mini- factory mums. Domestic production allows us to be more flexible.”— Lida Orzeck, ceo, Hanky Panky

“Everyone is looking for shorter lead times, and everyone is looking to book goods abc store as late as possible to get a better gauge on cash flow and demand. Eight weeks is our average turnaround time from order to in-store. It really hasn’t changed.” esty — Daniel Landver, Lucas Design International R yler “I think it’s going to be not only more vertical, but they will have to be quick-turn. This T by by is about turn. That is why I am 98 percent Made in the USA. It’s all about timing, not S on about buying six months in advance. I can’t imagine a buyer buying anything more i than three months out — they’ve got to see what’s coming next. If this is July, I’ll be buying for September or October and see what’s movingabc in stock and what I can get factory Illustrat back into.” — Allen Schwartz, owner, A.B.S. by Allen Schwartz “From better use of IT tools to better communication to clearing goods through There areabc a few sto rebrands that have chased low-price concepts. When you try to drop Customs faster and receiving and reshipping goods more quickly, it’s all about shav- price in a tough environment, the image of the company is lost and it just doesn’t ing days off our delivery time.” — Bob Skinner, ceo, Smart Apparel work unless you go to the Targets of the world that know how to take something that might have been on its way down and build it at their level. If the [denim] company “Everyone will think differently going forward, and I don’t think we will ever come is not putting out something that is pulsating and new to attract [the customer], you back completely to where we were. The buy-now, wear-now was a long time coming. are in trouble.” — Jeff Rudes, J Brand To actually have the product in the stores that people can wear right away, that’s what it’s all about.” — Chantal Bacon, Betsy Johnson THE NEW NORMAL Will there come a time when a retailer picks up the phone to ask for a reorder and is told “Buying closer to the season to me is one of the most important steps our industry can to call back in six months? Maybe not, but as inventory levels drop at all levels of the take. Stores are taking merchandise too early and promoting it at the height of sea- industry, that may one day become reality. Either way, it’s likely that many small com- son. The more we can get retailers to bring goods in in-season, the better off panies will not be able to survive the recession, leaving fewer larger companies to make they will be. I think it will have to take some time, but it’s certainly worth up the slack. Regardless of how it turns out, there’s definitely a changed reality. everybody’s time and investment to create a more intelligent de- livery cycle.” — Allen Ellinger, senior managing partner, Marketing “It will never go back to the way it was because it’s a new game and these are Management Group new times, and it’s good because a lot of people that were in there shouldn’t have been. There was too much of everything. Fashion drives the business, “Many will probably have to source differently$180 or source closer not volume.” — Allen Schwartz, A.B.S. by Allen Schwartz to home so they don’t have to worry about lead times for ship- ping from places further away or the need to fly goods in. “Today, more than ever, you have to have a reason for being. It is clear- That might mean higher costs such as $130for labor, for example, ly survival of the fittest. Retailers are viewing open-to-buy dollars as depending on where they now need to source from.” an investment [on] which they expect to get a return.” — Abe Chehebar, — Walter Loeb, retail consultant, Loeb Associates president and ceo, Accessory Network Group VERTICALIZATION $100 “Mediocre performers used to get by, but when a customer is forced Department stores have been losing market share nearly every year to tighten her purse string, they look less desirable. It’s one thing if an since 2003, and that trend is expected to accelerate this year. According item is at an H&M-Topshop price — it’s fine. It’s priced to move. But if to NPD’s Cohen, department stores, which account for 16 percent of fash- it’s in the luxury market and looks mediocre, then why would you buy ion sales, have been losing about 0.5 percent a year, and he expects they it? It’s forced designers to rethink their formulas.” — Alexis Bittar, founder $180 could lose up to a full point as mass merchants and lower-priced retailers and designer, Alexis Bittar gain consumer attention during the recession. Fast-fashion chains such as H&M and Zara continue to make inroads, and lower-priced stores from “We are testing and reacting more aggressively as a means of getting Wal-Mart to J.C. Penney also are poised to exploit the opportunity. And so product to market we know will sell. It’s all about getting the right prod- $130 vendors have a choice: They can either open their own stores — if they’re uct to the stores at the right time.” — Rick Luft, president, Swank Inc. financially able — or go down-market to increase their reach. “I would never say people going out of business is a good thing, but “Opening a new store is not like throwing two more jeans in the this will make us more efficient. We were over-retailed, overstored, $100 line. It is an expensive undertaking. If companies are in trouble, overlabeled. I don’t think one day this is going to be over and the funding is not there to open stores. The brands that are open- the faucet will turn back on. That era of overspending, ‘I’ll just ing stores are really building their brand, and they are in a strong put it on my credit card,’ is over.” — Erin Armendinger, director of the position.” — Jeff Rudes, J Brand THEN NOW University of Pennsylvania’s Wharton School Jay H. Baker Retailing Initiative 12 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 24, 2009 WWD.COM Men’s Underwear as Economic Indicator? Chanel Set to Open By Brenner Thomas But even if underwear is an economic ground- hog, the rest of apparel has a way to go before it Good news: Sales of men’s underwear will enjoy comparative gains. For the same six- month period, sales of tops tumbled 8.8 percent; Selfridges Boutique are up so far this year. Better news? That may mean the economy in general has turned the corner. tailored clothing dipped 5.2 percent. Apparel ac- That is, if Alan Greenspan’s theory is cor- cessories slumped 4.4 percent. Only sleepwear and A renderingrendering ofof rect. The economist and former chairman of the fleecewear posted gains, surging 11.7 and 14.4 per- Chanel’s in-in- For more Federal Reserve Board famously kept tabs on sales cent, respectively. So much for the interview suit. store boutiqueboutique of men’s undergarments, which he believed could Cohen expects the rest of men’s wear will catch images, at Selfridges.Selfridges. see WWD.com. accurately predict swings in consumer spending. up to underwear’s lead — some in as soon as three Unlike coats or sportswear, underwear sales months. “Bottoms will be next,” he predicted. tend to be unmoved by the vagaries of trends or “Guys can only go through a two-year cycle before seasonal spending. Greenspan, who articulated his their pants start to wear out. There’s a lot of pent- theory of “briefonomics” more than 15 years ago to up demand for bottoms.” then-CBS reporter Robert Krulwich, saw in this sta- Underwear makers and retailers aren’t surprised bility a winning economic indicator. to hear their classification is the “On those few occasions where Magic 8 Ball of the apparel industry. [sales] dip, that means that men “Underwear is easy to buy — it’s are so pinched that they are a quick way to boost the ego and deciding not to replace feel good about yourself while not LONDON — A fragrant whiff of French flair will infiltrate underpants,” Krulwich spending a lot of money,” said Jason Selfridges today when Chanel unveils a state-of-the-art fra- recalled of Greenspan’s Scarlatti, creative director for fashion grance boutique there. thinking during a seg- underwear brand 2(x)ist. “If you have The 646-square-foot space features an olfactive bar complete ment on NPR. For the a little cash to spend, guys will want to with ceramic fragrance blotters and an illuminated manuscript, economist, “that is al- use it for a fresh pair of undies.” controlled by a motion sensor, which retraces the brand’s her- most always a prescient, WwD NPD’s figures were echoed at itage. Customers will be invited to partake in one-on-one fra- forward impression that Freshpair.com, the leading e-tailer grance consultations in the space, which is located inside the ‘here comes trouble.’” Men’s of men’s underwear. Sales of men’s store’s main Oxford Street entrance here. Chanel will introduce Or growth. boxers and briefs flattened out last a new makeup counter concept in the store next month. According to The NPD Group, fall but started to grow again after sales of men’s underpants are up 4.7 Overall sales of men’s the New Year, gaining momentum percent for the first half of the year, underwear are up in in recent months. So far, sales for BEAUTY BEAT even as the men’s wear business the first half. the men’s division are up in the low overall continues to stagnate, falling double digits; women’s product sold The openings are part of a revamp of Selfridges’ beauty floor, 5.2 percent during the same period. on the site is up in the single digits. which is seeing brands introduce their most cutting-edge coun- Which raises the questions: Do strong under- “If Greenspan is right, then we should be pre- ter designs there. Shu Uemura, for instance, recently opened a wear sales suggest men have resumed buying pared for a strong recovery,” said Freshpair’s pres- lash bar in the store. basics after months of letting their skivvies get ident, Michael Kleinmann. “You need underwear. And, despite the Great British summer proving to be not so threadbare? Does a boost in that category predict It’s not something you can go without for long. great and the economic outlook remaining cloudy, Selfridges future resilience in apparel overall? Once you start buying again, it will be one of the shoppers are apparently still in the mood to spend. The re- “Underwear does follow a consistent pattern,” first things guys will need.” tailer has seen a double-digit spike in fragrance sales over the said Marshal Cohen, chief analyst for NPD, who is It should be noted Greenspan’s reputation as past three to four weeks, thanks to Middle Eastern customers a firm believer in the category’s predictive powers. an economic soothsayer has been dimmed by the picking up presents for the gifting period, which begins after “As a pure commodity, its sales figures can reflect black clouds of the global recession — a storm, Ramadan. general sentiments about consumer confidence. To many observers have said, he should have seen “Our Middle Eastern customers always spend in the beauty me, these strong figures mean we are nearing the coming. But in a market that has been besieged hall at this time of the year,” stated David Walker-Smith, beauty end of the recession, and that it is not going to be by bad news and gloomy predictions, any sunny and men’s wear director at Selfridges. “However, this August we as long or as deep as some feared.” forecast, even one that hails from the underwear have noticed a record amount of fragrance sales, which has re- Cohen said that after a 12-month, double-digit drawer, is a welcome one. sulted in an excessive amount of wrapping. Many counters have decline through the end of January, men’s under- “We’d like to think this is the beginning of a turn reported that they had their best week ever as a result.” wear sales leveled off and then began to pick up, for not just underwear brands, but everyone,” said The top-selling scents purchased by Middle Eastern cus- suggesting the economy was stabilizing. Scarlatti. “Maybe underwear sales do trickle down.” tomers from Aug. 10 to 16 included Tom Ford’s Bois Marocain, Chanel Beige, a plethora of Trish McEvoy fragrances, Boadicea the Victorious Warrior and Robert Piguet Visa. One customer snapped up almost 90 bottles of the Boadicea the Invista, Lane Bryant Team for New Bra Victorious scent, with each one weighing in at 125 pounds, or $207 at current exchange. By Karyn Monget and they collaborated with us to use our new tech- The store has Arabic-speaking staff on hand at counters in- nology. We were able to get it executed with them cluding Bobbi Brown and Tom Ford, while secluded areas are Invista Inc. has joined forces with Lane and at retail in nine months.” available for women wearing hijabs to test makeup and skin care Bryant to create the Cacique Back Smoothing Bra. Lober noted that 80 percent of 185 DevOtee products. In addition, store opening hours were extended in July The proprietary bra style designed by Lane Bryant panelists of O, the Oprah Magazine wear-tested the and August to cater to Middle Eastern and Asian shopping pref- is rendered in Lycra 2.0 tape garment technology, Cacique Back Smoothing Bra in the second quarter, erences, tax free shopping services have been amped up and cus- which is based on a heat-activated bonding technique. citing overall satisfaction, as well the bra’s smooth, tomers with chauffeur-driven cars are offered free parking. The application eliminates bulky stitching and elastics, sleek look as “excellent-good.” Ninety-six percent — Brid Costello and offers comfortable allover stretch, which provides of panelists gave top reviews to the bra’s seamless, all-day fit retention that “moves with the stitch-free attributes, as well as 89 per- body,” said Dianne Lober, marketing com- cent for the bra’s smooth look. munications manager at Invista. Asked if the bra feels good all day, Sears Securities Fraud Case Appealed A full-scale launch of the new bra 93 percent of the focus group gave top By Matthew Lynch began Sunday at 774 Lane Bryant stores, marks for the bra’s ability to retain its following a test launch on lanebryant. shape, while 83 percent rated the bra’s The lead plaintiffs in a lawsuit that had accused com last month. Retailing for $40, bra “all-day fit and comfort as excellent- Sears Holdings Corp. and its chairman, Edward Lampert, of se- cup sizes are 36C to 46DDD, and Lane good.” Regarding purchase intent, Lober curities fraud said Friday they would appeal a judge’s dismissal Bryant plans to expand into G and H said 73 percent of respondents said they of the case. cups at year’s end. Colors include ivory, would buy this bra if available, while 77 Former Kmart investors filed the suit against Lampert and black, café mocha and a bow-tie print, percent said they would recommend it to onetime Kmart chief executive officer Julian Day in 2006, but a said Lober. their friends. judge threw the case out last month. “Our Lane Bryant Cacique cus- “Respondents reacted positively On Friday, plaintiffs Fred Campo, The Plumbers and tomer has come to rely on our qual- when told that the bra uses Lycra Pipefitters National Pension Fund and the Mississippi ity fit and styling,” said Jim Fogarty, 2.0 garment technology,” Lober said. Public Employees’ Retirement System gave notice to the president and chief executive officer “Eighty-six percent have a very posi- court that they sought an appeal with the U.S. Court of Appeals’ of Charming Shoppes, parent of Lane A look at a point-of-sale tive opinion about Lycra 2.0 garment Second Circuit. Bryant. “Our Back Smoothing Bra is visual for the Cacique technology.” The shareholders alleged the two executives knowingly un- the latest in our Cacique team’s quest Back Smoothing Bra. She added that 81 percent “strongly dervalued Kmart’s real estate holdings in statements and filings to listen to and deliver for our core agreed that the bra made them look and during the retailer’s reorganization following a 2002 bankruptcy. customer. She told us she didn’t like the way bras feel great in their clothes.” According to the plaintiffs’ complaint, Lampert and Day tried look from the back and we listened.” Michelle Rice, global segment director of inti- to hide that Lampert’s investment fund, ESL Investments, had A first-year sales projection was not available, mate apparel and swimwear at Invista, said a video taken control of the retailer below market value. but industry sources estimated the new bra style for the Cacique bra has been created to run on the Kmart and Sears Roebuck & Co. merged in 2005 and became could generate sales in excess of $4 million in the lanebryant.com Web site and it will also run in the Sears Holdings Corp. first 12 months. brick-and-mortar units. Additional shapewear items In a July 21 ruling, Judge Lewis Kaplan of U.S. District Court “The bra straps are wider all the way down the by Cacique using Lycra 2.0 technology will be intro- in Manhattan granted the defendants’ motion to dismiss the case back to the hooks and eyes,” said Roseann Beutel, duced in the future, she said. and called the suit’s allegations “too speculative.” Invista’s intimate marketing manager of intimate ap- Regarding distribution of other products and la- “Plaintiffs allege that defendants represented that the fair parel. “It’s like a V-back bra. It immediately smooths bels using Lycra 2.0 technology in the international market value of Kmart’s real estate was $10 million when, in back bulges. The wings and the back of the bra are marketplace, Rice said, “We will work with global reality, it was $9 [billion] to $18 billion,” Kaplan wrote in his rendered in Lycra 2.0, while the front is a Lycra and partners in the U.K., Canada, Asia and Brazil this July 21 ruling. “This rather dramatic assertion is not borne out nylon blend. Lane Bryant’s design is patent pending year, and expand in the U.S. in spring 2010.” by plaintiffs’ well-pleaded factual allegations.” WWD, monday, august 24, 2009 13 WWD.COM Financial For full daily stock changes and more financial news, see WWD.com / business-news. Signs of Life Boost Retail Stocks Weekly Stocks 52-Week Volume Amt 52-Week Volume Amt By Arnold J. Karr High Low Companies p/E Last Change High Low Companies p/E Last Change Encouraging words from Federal Reserve 55.83 13.66 Abercrombie & Fitch (ANF) 61.6 17373299 32.55 -1.70 8.00 2.00 Jaclyn (JCLY) - 0 7.00 0.00 chairman Ben Bernanke, and signs from the housing 26.14 8.50 Acadia (AKR) 31.1 1429919 14.93 0.34 1.39 0.22 Joe’s Jeans (JOEZ) 11.0 508143 0.64 -0.06 market, lifted stocks higher Friday and allowed retail 3.78 0.43 Aeffe * (AEF:MI) - 444451 0.56 -0.01 22.12 2.34 Jones Apparel (JNY) - 7305602 15.53 0.60 shares to register a gain for the week. 38.74 12.52 Aéropostale (ARO) 14.8 20067741 39.55 3.64 42.50 15.38 Jos. A. Bank (JOSB) 11.8 1614184 39.69 1.72 The S&P Retail Index rose 2.2 percent on Friday to 29.40 19.32 Alberto Culver (ACV) 10.8 1295325 26.09 0.80 18.50 4.89 Kenneth Cole (KCP) - 507689 8.90 -0.25 366.35, erasing declines earlier in the week. That not 10.25 1.20 American Apparel (APP) 73.4 1116611 3.72 0.05 47.80 6.33 Kimco Realty (KIM) - 32861106 12.05 0.89 only produced a 1.3 percent advance for last week, but 18.00 6.98 American Eagle (AEO) 18.4 21486030 14.67 -0.02 56.00 24.28 Kohl’s (KSS) 18.3 17379219 52.36 0.63 put the year-to-date gain at 31.2 percent and growth 27.55 2.41 Ann Taylor (ANN) - 17673291 13.44 1.04 20.76 6.44 K-Swiss (KSWS) 29.2 704101 10.06 -0.03 since the index hit its all-time low on Nov. 21 at 76.6 425.00 112.50 Asos * (ASC:L) 25.0 3345204 340.00 -1.25 17.00 7.00 LaCrosse Footwear (BOOT) 13.9 77109 10.73 0.08 percent. The retail index was reset in June 2002. 44.72 14.40 Avon (AVP) 32.3 10709284 32.66 0.44 22.16 5.98 Limited Brands (LTD) 38.8 27510805 15.35 1.17 All three major indices moved ahead Friday on Bernanke’s proclamation that “the prospects for a re- 11.02 4.57 Bebe (BEBE) 21.0 1626604 6.97 0.40 20.14 1.46 Liz Claiborne (LIZ) - 19680194 4.07 0.40 turn to growth in the near term appear good” and the 56.72 28.70 Beiersdorf * (BEI:GR) 17.0 2699494 34.28 0.21 3.10 0.35 LJ Intl. (JADE) 16.2 2148341 1.76 -0.30 National Association of Realtors’ report sales of existing 13.30 4.30 Benetton Group * (BEN:MI) 10.5 725955 6.50 -0.21 99.97 46.00 L’Oréal * (OR:PA) 18.6 3919636 61.38 0.84 homes rose 7.2 percent in July. The Dow Jones Industrial 2.44 0.20 Birks & Mayors (BMJ) - 31546 0.49 0.02 27.99 4.33 Lululemon (LULU) 38.1 3631634 19.85 -0.17 Average was up 2 percent for the week to 9,505.96 as 41.99 27.26 BJs (BJ) 13.0 11002778 32.25 1.20 26.66 9.41 Luxottica * (LUX:MI) 23.2 3921043 17.37 -0.33 the S&P 500 rose 2.2 percent to 1,026.13. The Nasdaq 0.29 0.03 Blue (BLHI) - 13945 0.08 0.01 89.36 38.10 LVMH * (MC:PA) 17.0 5220761 65.47 -0.15 Composite ended the week at 2,020.90, up 1.8 percent. 2.80 0.32 Bluefly (BFLY) - 23870 1.52 -0.03 70.98 5.45 Macerich (MAC) 30.8 10931335 25.72 -0.61 For the year, the Dow is up 8.3 percent and the 5.70 0.76 Bon-Ton (BONT) - 1158054 4.81 0.87 22.96 5.07 Macy’s Inc. (M) - 61424644 15.35 0.04 S&P 500 up 13.6 percent. Rivaling the ascent of retail 18.44 2.04 Brown Shoe (BWS) - 1074742 7.67 -0.19 16.64 6.25 Maidenform (MFB) 15.3 916493 16.32 0.96 stocks, the Nasdaq is 28.1 percent ahead of its closing 44.57 13.57 Buckle (BKE) 11.1 8780772 27.06 0.52 669.00 191.90 Marks & Spencer * (MKS:L) 10.6 32315540 342.90 10.80 mark of 2008. 11.48 2.76 Bulgari * (BUL:MI) - 9902025 5.05 -0.21 26.43 8.33 Men’s Wearhouse (MW) 22.5 3315394 24.33 1.15 Of 174 issues tracked by WWD, 112 had a positive week, seven were flat and 55 lost ground. 686.50 154.75 Burberry * (BRBY:L) - 9898601 487.00 8.10 26.17 4.65 Movado (MOV) - 645906 12.82 0.25 With the exception of Sears Holdings Corp., nearly 17.73 4.18 Cabela’s (CAB) 14.4 3127890 16.28 0.68 25.00 10.03 National Retail Prop. (NNN) 14.8 5022760 20.53 0.17 all the major retailers and vendors reporting results 13.90 1.41 Caché (CACH) - 251506 4.76 -0.08 12.12 0.82 New York & Co. (NWY) - 1040282 4.54 0.28 last week saw their stock prices climb higher. Sears 54.20 22.06 Carrefour * (CA:PA) 17.6 11206119 32.12 0.84 0.35 0.05 NexCen (NEXC) - 411204 0.28 0.01 ended the week at $66.02, down 14.4 percent, after re- 29.49 13.79 Carter (CRI) 17.1 3374717 26.65 1.76 68.00 38.24 Nike (NKE) 18.8 17398991 55.65 -1.21 porting a second-quarter loss that took investors and 4.95 0.26 Casual Male (CMRG) - 603326 2.25 -0.14 0.75 0.02 Nitches (NICH) - 21900 0.10 0.00 analysts by surprise. Aéropostale Inc. shares finished 21.72 11.30 Cato (CTR) 14.2 2217180 16.95 -0.55 37.00 6.61 Nordstrom (JWN) 18.7 22231886 28.17 0.30 the week up 10.1 percent at $39.55 following double- 23.28 1.92 CBL (CBL) 262.0 10907591 8.10 0.02 22.98 5.95 Orchids Paper (TIS) 12.5 496857 21.45 1.60 digit gains in quarterly sales and profits reported late 6.68 2.05 CCA (CAW) 24.4 31446 3.90 -0.10 29.02 3.14 Oxford (OXM) - 383866 14.09 0.30 Thursday. With similar results, The Buckle Inc. was up 0.75 0.18 Charles & Colvard (CTHR) - 174656 0.46 -0.10 8.41 0.72 Pacific Sunwear (PSUN) - 6376255 3.51 -0.78 2 percent for the week, to $27.06. Target Corp. shares rose 8.6 percent, to $45.66, after reporting on Tuesday 16.32 3.98 Charlotte Russe (CHIC) - 1202041 13.79 -0.25 7.15 0.59 Parlux Fragrances (PARL) - 209419 2.10 0.38 that its profits declined, although not as much as ex- 6.34 0.45 Charming Shoppes (CHRS) - 4342415 5.71 0.06 24.29 2.20 Penn Real Estate (PEI) - 2133344 6.43 0.16 pected, on weak apparel and home sales. 82.00 50.10 Chattem (CHTT) 16.3 1361767 61.67 -1.18 23.74 3.31 Perry Ellis (PERY) - 1157867 12.25 3.40 The largest gain for the week came on the vendor 26.25 11.29 Cherokee (CHKE) 13.5 124738 20.98 0.45 45.77 13.04 Phillips-Van Heusen (PVH) 26.3 6132016 36.59 1.92 side. Perry Ellis International Inc. shares were up 38.4 12.88 1.72 Chico’s (CHS) - 16601681 12.09 0.27 1.19 0.11 Phoenix Footwear (PXG) - 15069 0.50 0.00 percent to $12.25 following the Miami-based firm’s re- 43.40 16.45 Children’s Place (PLCE) 10.5 4610098 31.54 -0.49 82.02 31.22 Polo Ralph Lauren (RL) 17.4 8485112 67.03 1.57 port of a smaller quarterly loss on Wednesday, when 12.00 2.46 Christopher & Banks (CBK) - 885457 7.41 -0.12 141.50 31.06 PPR * (PP:PA) 27.0 2375720 80.69 1.67 shares rose 17.2 percent. 33.73 18.09 Cintas (CTAS) 18.3 5002256 27.70 0.82 22.62 10.35 PriceSmart (PSMT) 11.7 401331 18.01 1.15 Off-pricers The TJX Cos. Inc. and Ross Stores Inc. 31.47 7.01 Citi Trends (CTRN) 16.3 3727151 23.46 -6.27 9.20 0.80 Quiksilver (ZQK) - 6277645 2.30 0.02 both reported higher profits and sales for the second 31.93 11.41 Coach (COH) 15.0 15787364 28.75 0.20 9.15 4.85 R.G. Barry (DFZ) 11.6 146920 8.59 0.71 quarter, but Ross benefited more on Wall Street, with 8.31 0.91 Coldwater Creek (CWTR) - 4553282 6.97 0.00 24.10 3.45 Ramco-Gershenson (RPT) 14.4 772535 10.26 0.37 a 5.4 percent increase in its shares for the week, while its larger competitor saw its shares rise 2.2 percent. 80.49 54.36 Colgate Palmolive (CL) 18.6 10761290 73.16 1.41 70.95 20.72 Regency Centers (REG) 36.8 8621693 32.80 -0.17 21.00 3.85 Collective Brands (PSS) - 6755488 14.08 -0.37 5.17 0.90 Retail Ventures (RVI) - 767265 4.35 0.45 49.49 24.63 Columbia Sprtswr (COLM) 16.9 884963 36.99 0.03 14.85 2.30 Revlon (REV) 3.8 1018926 5.00 -0.32 in brief 71.00 38.17 Costco (COST) 18.9 17556263 48.56 -0.07 83.00 14.18 Richemont * (CFR:VX) 14.2 16322233 28.88 0.32 • METTLER ON STEIN MART BOARD: Robert Mettler, the 6.89 0.79 Crocs (CROX) - 24129951 6.95 0.63 46.53 21.70 Ross Stores (ROST) 18.9 10564351 46.80 2.40 retired chairman and chief executive officer of the 0.20 0.02 Cygne Designs (CYDS) - 133175 0.12 0.02 3.72 0.28 Safilo * (SFL:MI) - 2658524 0.44 0.00 Macy’s West division of Macy’s Inc., has joined the 121.95 37.24 Deckers Outdoor (DECK) 11.3 1865983 69.80 -0.84 12.25 1.50 Saks (SKS) - 25502585 6.01 0.17 board of Jacksonville, Fla.-based Stein Mart Inc. His 3.50 1.38 Delia’s (DLIA) 4.7 519416 2.76 -0.11 10.50 2.66 Sally Beauty (SBH) 14.1 5663861 7.01 -0.19 addition increases the size of the board to 12 from 11 9.23 2.72 Delta Apparel (DLA) 11.6 13348 9.14 0.10 108.75 26.80 Sears (SHLD) 62.5 14581835 66.02 -11.08 and the number of independent directors to seven. 23.74 4.42 Destination Maternity (DEST) - 158037 21.85 0.25 106.43 24.27 Simon Property Group (SPG) 40.4 19261342 62.21 -0.48 Mettler, who became a director of Jones Apparel Group Inc. earlier this year, joined Macy’s West as 41.55 1.38 Developers Diversified (DDR) - 29108471 8.26 -0.04 20.03 5.20 Skechers (SKX) 68.9 3148596 15.72 1.12 president in 2000 following executive roles at Sears, 15.37 2.50 Dillard’s (DDS) - 4283329 10.76 0.30 2.18 0.13 Sport-Haley (SPOR) - 1300 0.35 -0.33 where he headed merchandising; May Department 17.93 6.16 Dress Barn (DBRN) 15.4 2811642 16.11 0.21 16.33 3.52 Stage Stores (SSI) - 907443 13.87 1.06 Stores Co., where he was ceo of Robinson’s, and Allied 16.32 6.66 DSW (DSW) 25.0 885015 13.67 0.68 12.37 0.99 Stein Mart (SMRT) - 1835302 12.13 0.81 Department Stores. Of the firm’s new director, Jay 19.14 7.09 Duckwall-Alco (DUCK) 75.9 45085 16.89 0.34 34.68 13.37 Steve Madden (SHOO) 15.4 891968 31.56 0.19 Stein, chairman of Stein Mart, said, “After serving in 21.79 3.93 Elizabeth Arden (RDEN) - 1001251 10.03 -0.21 76.50 23.05 Swatch Group * (UHRN:SW) - 672387 45.30 -1.20 leadership positions with some of the country’s pre- 54.75 19.81 Estée Lauder (EL) 32.2 10606385 35.84 -0.24 17.24 4.22 Syms (SYMS) - 53865 8.00 0.74 mier retailers, his guidance will be invaluable.” 35.00 19.70 Family Dollar (FDO) 14.6 11650673 29.72 0.37 17.97 1.19 Talbots (TLB) - 2200993 6.00 0.19 12.43 3.42 Finish Line (FINL) 212.5 4623885 8.05 -0.37 5.90 1.25 Tandy Brands (TBAC) - 75208 2.60 0.25 WEEKLY 31.67 11.00 Fossil (FOSL) 14.4 2326433 25.16 -0.40 3.25 1.55 Tandy Leather Factory (TLF) 12.4 22590 3.25 0.07 2.25 0.12 Frederick’s of Hollywood (FOH) - 919774 1.79 0.47 46.30 24.62 Tanger Factory Outlet (SKT) 20.5 2810578 36.48 0.70 CHANGE WWD 15.91 8.22 Freds (FRED) 28.9 952057 13.29 0.25 59.55 25.00 Target (TGT) 16.3 57432224 45.66 3.63 ENDING 196.75 30.00 French Connection * (FCCN:L) - 102608 50.00 -2.50 0.85 0.21 Tarrant Apparel (TAGS) - 25000 0.84 0.00 ( AUG. 21 ) INDEX 20.80 9.41 Gap (GPS) 14.3 48186620 19.48 0.70 92.35 12.43 Taubman (TCO) - 5426753 30.02 0.79 % 38.74 10.37 Genesco (GCO) 33.9 1108266 20.40 -2.47 6.10 0.18 Tefron (TFRFF) - 4478 5.95 0.10 Gainers Change Composite 23.00 3.24 G-III Apparel (GIII) - 464622 13.48 1.32 45.80 16.70 Tiffany & Co. (TIF) 21.5 12549468 32.10 0.61 Perry Ellis 38.42 27.82 5.66 Gildan Activewear (GIL) 34.3 3543208 21.18 1.45 19.41 7.19 Timberland (TBL) 19.1 1505948 13.17 0.38 852.30 11.62 0.75 Glimcher (GRT) - 1641301 3.69 -0.15 37.20 17.80 TJX Cos. (TJX) 16.0 32968624 35.86 0.77 Frederick’s of Hollywood 35.62 38.15 15.32 G&K (GKSR) - 451366 22.77 1.08 64.48 25.23 Tod’s * (TOD:MI) 14.8 326013 40.54 -1.76 Parlux Fragrances 22.09 43.00 10.26 Guess (GES) 14.2 5085452 30.58 2.27 31.82 7.80 True Religion (TRLG) 11.7 2445350 22.80 1.40 Bon-Ton 22.08 45.17 14.02 Gymboree (GYMB) 14.6 8235592 44.79 3.85 11.97 1.01 Tween Brands (TWB) - 1926846 7.49 0.09 Cygne Designs 20.00 8.50 1.50 Hampshire (HAMP) - 29000 2.85 0.00 43.52 11.94 Under Armour (UA) 29.8 1787476 24.16 0.17 27.80 5.14 Hanesbrands (HBI) 41.9 2753762 21.01 0.53 5.43 0.44 Unifi (UFI) - 871530 2.24 0.20 Decliners Change 0.53 0.00 Hartmarx (HTMXQ) - 2634415 0.02 -0.01 28.93 16.95 Unilever (UL) - 4310453 27.74 0.31 433.50 239.50 Hennes & Mauritz * (HMB:ST) 22.8 8993858 419.00 5.00 38.40 12.33 Urban Outfitters (URBN) 26.5 17614467 28.80 0.81 Sport-Haley -48.53 131.89 59.42 Hermès * (RMS:PA) 36.4 208707 100.50 -0.50 84.60 38.22 VF Corp. (VFC) 14.0 3292667 67.05 1.42 Citi Trends -21.09 16.54 1.40 HSN (HSNI) - 1034467 12.04 0.92 20.27 6.39 Volcom (VLCM) 25.5 636527 13.34 0.27 Pacific Sunwear -18.18 13.87 4.61 Hot Topic (HOTT) 14.4 6198889 7.44 -0.05 63.85 46.25 Wal-Mart (WMT) 15.2 74304332 51.36 -0.43 Charles & Colvard -17.88 7.98 19.10 13.23 IAC Interactive (IACI) 11.4 9805034 19.50 0.76 53.64 12.22 Warnaco (WRC) 27.7 3051538 38.70 0.40 LJ Intl. -14.64 18.30 5.11 Iconix (ICON) 15.3 3242430 17.50 0.34 40.00 7.96 Weingarten (WRI) 19.2 9687395 18.97 1.13 53.90 23.29 Inditex * (ITX:MC) 19.4 6544099 38.02 -0.28 5.20 1.85 Wet Seal (WTSLA) 12.8 5733207 3.67 0.14 * Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency 15.00 3.50 Inter Parfums (IPAR) 14.2 279320 9.96 -0.05 41.99 20.11 Weyco (WEYS) 21.3 49744 23.61 1.62 of their principal exchanges. Shares on the London Stock 1.96 0.00 IT Holding * (ITH:MI) - 0 0.18 0.00 29.45 13.15 Wolverine (WWW) 15.8 1432253 23.75 0.50 Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch Group are quoted in Swiss francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quot- 38.00 8.02 J. Crew (JCG) 45.5 6828873 31.50 1.35 30.89 0.89 Zale (ZLC) - 1775215 6.16 0.09 ed in Swedish kronor. All other European stocks are in euros. 44.20 13.71 J.C. Penney (JCP) 18.9 19342242 31.26 -0.03 20.09 4.80 Zumiez (ZUMZ) 26.1 1946247 14.00 1.56 14 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 24, 2009 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS Professional Services

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MEMO PAD Claire, which signed on as the magazine partner for the next Strickler Tops List for USTR Post five years, also feel like they’ve scored big. “A great first night By Liza Casabona GOOD PROJECT: For Harvey Weinstein, it was worth the wait and for Marie Claire and “Project Runway,” said Susan Plagemann, the lawsuits. Proving America can’t seem to get enough of Marie Claire’s vice president and publisher. WASHINGTON — Former textile executive Gail fashion bitchiness and backbiting, a record number of viewers Season six debuted after its producers The Weinstein Co. Strickler is the leading candidate for the tuned in to “Project Runway” after a 10-month hiatus and moved the show to Lifetime from Bravo, but not before Bravo’s role of special textile negotiator in the U.S. a relocation to a new network. The season six premiere on parent company NBC Universal filed a breach of contract Trade Representative’s office, sources said late Thursday night gathered 4.2 million viewers during its 10 p.m. lawsuit against the Weinstein Co. The lawsuit kept the program last week. airing on Lifetime. That’s the best rating for the series’ premiere off the air until the case was eventually settled out of court in Historically, the textile negotiator has ham- episode ever and a 45 percent increase over the ratings for April, allowing the program to broadcast on Lifetime. mered out the apparel and textile details of season’s five premiere, which drew 2.9 million viewers on Bravo. The new season seems virtually the same compared with trade agreements with counterparts from Not that Lifetime didn’t stack the deck a bit, creating an past seasons, save for some small tweaks: The program was other countries. evening-long buildup to the premiere that at times seemed to milk filmed mostly in Los Angeles instead of New York, and Bunim/ Strickler is currently associate director at every corner of the franchise. “Project Runway” returned along with Murray Productions, known for its work on MTV’s “The Real Philadelphia University’s Institute for Textile “Project Runway: All Star Challenge,” a two-hour special face-off World,” joined the production team, replacing Dan Cutforth and & Apparel Product Safety and a member of the among past “Runway” designers which aired at 8 p.m., and a new Jane Lipsitz of Magical Elves. The duo left the show after season Cotton Board. Strickler is a former owner of series, “Models of the Runway,” a show focused on the models five.Lindsay Lohan served as special guest judge for Thursday Saxon Textiles. She is also well known in the in- competing in “Project Runway” that aired at 11 p.m. But clearly night’s show, and sounded surprisingly articulate and poised dustry from her time with the Textile Distributor’s the flagship show was the main draw: “The All Star Challenge” during her critiques. Upcoming guest judges this season are Association, which shut down in 2007. drew 2.9 million viewers, while “Models” drew 1.9 million viewers. said to include Eva Longoria Parker and Bob Mackie. Strickler could not be reached for comment. The Weinstein also roped in Nicole Kidman and Diane von Of the diverse mix of season six contestants, ranging from U.S. Trade Representative’s office did not respond Furstenberg to participate in the “All Star Challenge” as a young to old, black to Eastern European, one viewer is already a fan. to requests for comment by press time Sunday. presenter and a judge, respectively, while Fergie and Kate “I am gripped by the designers, but only wish I had been able to Strickler’s name initially surfaced in April as Hudson shot some promotional footage for “Project Runway.” try the hexagonal silver diaper dress on,” said Marie Claire editor in a possible candidate for the deputy assistant sec- The interest in “Project Runway” continued online as well: chief Joanna Coles, referring to the losing design on Thursday’s show retary for textiles and apparel at the Commerce Lifetime said traffic to its Web site broke records for both by Ari Fish. “Oh, and the ratings kick ass.” — Stephanie D. Smith Department, a position that also chairs the in- unique visitors (454,000) and visits (558,000) on Thursday, teragency Committee for the Implementation of and registered 4.6 million page views. LOOKING TO HIRE: Martha Nelson, editor of the style and Textile Agreements. At the time, industry sourc- “Not only has this premiere generated the series’ highest entertainment group at Time Inc., is on the hunt for a new art es said she was widely seen as an experienced rating, but the reviews have been the best we have ever director at instyle.com to succeed Patricia Marroquin, who no longer choice who would be well received. received,” added Harvey Weinstein, co-chairman of The works at the Web site. In other Time Inc. news, Entertainment The Commerce Department position will be Weinstein Co. Weekly recently hired new design director Amid Capeci, succeeding filled by Kim Glas, former legislative director And while Lifetime and The Weinstein Co. are obviously Brian Anstey, who left for Italian Vanity Fair. Capeci most recently for Rep. Mike Michaud (D. Maine), this week, relieved by the show’s strong viewership, executives at Marie was creative director at Newsweek. — Amy Wicks sources said.

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Factory Plant Manager Assist. $40- SALES ASSISTANT COMMERCIAL 60K. Current exp in men’s or women’s Well established clothing manufactur- shirts required. Must have supervised er is seeking individuals who can work REAL ESTATE minimum 20 individuals. Good people in fast paced office and multi task. person required. NJ location Candidates must be a team player and Buyer Product Devel to $80K [email protected] 973-564-9236 ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Accounts Receivable Clerk Current exp in luxury mens dress fast learner with great communication and computer skills. Assistant buyer An accessory/ luxury wholesaler seeks An accessory wholesale co. has an out- shirts and ties. Strong in devel of prod- an enthusiastic individual to join our standing career opportunity for an uct with factories domestic/overseas. experience is a plus! We offer benefits. Email your resume to sales team. Must be a strategic thinker Accounts Receivable Clerk with 3-5 yrs Strong inventory management. Handbag Designer able to plan & monitor sales projections accounting experience in a wholesale Midtown. Well known retail men’s store. Seeking a self motivated creative Design- [email protected] or fax to: 212-395-9775. EOE. as well as develop & maintain strong Showrooms & Lofts company. Candidate must have strong [email protected] 973-564-9236 er for a newly acquired license. candi- relationships w/ domestic & specialty knowledge of QuickBooks and Microsoft date must be energetic & have exp work- accounts. Applicants must have 5 yrs. BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Office. Please send cover letter with Great ’New’ Office Space Avail ing w/overseas offcs & factories. Resumes: SALESPERSON AND min. sales exp. w/ fashion forward salary requirements and resume to: [email protected] product and strong retail math skills. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 [email protected] CAD ARTISTS DESIGNER/MERCHANDISER Needed Freelance Cad Artists At Once Well established missy company open- Qualified candidates, please send resume must be expert at PhotoShop. ing up junior sportswear & dress and salary requirements to: Email: [email protected] Patternmaker $60-80K. division. looking for a salesperson with [email protected] Exp with men’s dress shirts required. proven track record and a designer Proficient on table as well as inputing with pulse on trends. 5-7 years experi- CAD DESIGNER on Gerber. North NJ location. ence for both positions. Apply in confi- Spacious, airy showroom on 39th &7th An apparel co. has an immediate opening [email protected] 973-564-9236 dence to private fax: 212-768-1858; ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Ave, heart of the garment district. Apparel Sales Representative for a CAD Designer. Job duties include e-mail: [email protected] Perlina Handbags is seeking a results 4000 sq ft, entire 14th floor. Frt. & pass A rapidly growing progressive streetwear creating & manipulating artwork and driven account executive to work with yarn-dyes, developing repeats, communi- major dept stores. Must have strong, elevator access. Avail now to sublease. brand has immediate openings for PATTERNMAKER Shoe Designer $ Open Call 714-799-6333 experienced outside sales reps within cating daily w/mills, flat sketching, & proven, established relationships and trend research. Exp. req’d, must be detail Urban Outfitters Inc. is a Philadelphia- Current exp in casual shoes for wom- be able to drive the business. Email national & international territories. based retailer, home to the lifestyle en. Private label or branded ok. Must E-mail: [email protected] oriented & a team player. In-depth knowl- your resume to: [email protected] edge of Photoshop, Illustrator, & Excel brands, Urban Outfitters, Anthropologie, relo to New England. Well known req’d. E-mail resume: [email protected] + Free People. We are currently seeking licenses. Design on computer required a skilled patternmaker to join our [email protected] 973-564-9236 Assistant Sportswear home office technical design team. JNCO JEANS DESIGN ASSISTANT- An apparel co. has Work in Lectra to create patterns for successfully launched its new contem- Designer an immediate opening for a Design Assis- all categories of product, including porary premium denim line for Interact closely with senior designer at tant. Job duties include fabric & trend re- knits + wovens, men’s + women’s, Swimwear Company mid-tier retailers and department each stage of design development tops + bottoms. Candidates should also Seeking experienced sewer with some stores. JNCO seeks a Sales Agent / search, tech packs, flat sketching, & daily pattern making experience preferred, process. 0 to 3 years experience (to be correspondence w/overseas mills. Exp pre- have excellent draping skills. Competitive Showroom for the East Coast territory trained on the job). Must be able to ex- salary plus relocation. Visit us on the 4 days per week. Phone 914-462-1016 with retail expertise and relationships. ferred, must have a design degree, be de- or email [email protected] ecute tech packs. Ability to do color, tail oriented, a team player, good commu- web at www.urbn.com or apply by Capable to execute the sales strategy We are looking for an experienced print and fit approvals. Proficient in Il- nicator, flat sketching skills, & in-depth sending your resume to: and able to drive sales. Inquiries may importer/ general agency /regional lustrator, Photoshop, and excel. Strong be made to 323-881-3267 or emailed to: knowledge of Photoshop, Illustrator, & [email protected] Technical Designer $70-100K agency for our product “ITALIANA” communication skills required for dai- Excel. E-mail resume : [email protected] [email protected] brand in Ladies Hosiery Business. ly communication with overseas offi- Strong current exp in creating bra and daywear products on computer. Creative Please contact Mrs.Beysun Sonmezoz ces. Highly organized, detail oriented. PROD DEV. COORD ...... $50-57K Sales Key Account Exec $ Open Phone: +902124821033 Experience in print development a and technical . Knowledge of tech packs. Designer $100-125K. Current exp in Jr. Prices, Samples, etc [email protected] 973-564-9236 Current exp in girls sportswear Email: [email protected] plus. Must have ability to flat sketch. surfwear or girls surfwear lifestyle Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 required. Must have present relation- Web: italianafashion.com Understand garment construction, sportswear required. Midtown kids co. [email protected] ships with Kohl’s or Sears or JC able to source trim market, and formu- Will consider relo from L.A. to NYC. Technical Design Mgr to $125K. Penney or K-Mart. This is a long estab- late presentation boards [email protected] 973-564-9236 Current exp in managing tech packages lished, growing, midtown kidswear co. Please send your resumes to and specs for swimwear co req. Supervise 4 [email protected] 973-564-9236 Production/Executive [email protected] 973-564-9236 [email protected] Designer Children’s Sleepwear Assistant Apparel company located in Montreal, This fast paced manufacturing compa- Sales position in Beauty Sales and Marketing – Canada has an immediate opportunity ny is looking for an entry level assis- PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Fall 2009 Intern for a free lance or full time designer tant. The basic responsibilities will in- SHES COOL The Intern will work with all functions strong in the graphic arts (for all over clude but are not limited to, answering (Updated Junior sportswear Co.) PRODUCTIONS (sales, marketing and operations) in a prints) to work from their home office. calls, creating and updating tracking Sportswear Co. (Junior, Missy & Junior All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. small, start-up environment. Must be computer literate and know charts, read/file daily email, communi- Plus) for knit division doing Dresses, Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Send a cover letter and Adobe Illustrator in a MAC environ- cation with overseas office. Selected Blouses, Skirts, Sweaters & Jackets resume to Heather Williams, at ment. Knowledgeable in infant, candidate must have excellent com- looking for energetic salesperson who can PATTERNS, SAMPLES, [email protected]. toddler and boys/girls sleepwear. munication skills, Excel proficiency, develop & sell the knit line. Candidates For more information, go to Experience in the better or mass mar- good organization skills and initiative. w/est’d contacts & who can commit PRODUCTIONS WWDCareers.com, keyword Sally ket, a plus. Please send you CV to: Please send your resumes to sales of 5 Million or More need to apply. Full service shop to the trade. Hershberger Professional HairCare [email protected] Fax or email resumes to: 212-398-2579 Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. [email protected] [email protected] Experience the power of fashion’s most coveted front row seat

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Featuring the Best of the Runways: New York, London, Milan, Paris PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI

For more information on advertising, contact Christine Guilfoyle, publisher, at 212.630.4737.