1988 Yellowstone Fires! 20 Years After FREE

MOUNTAINMOUNTAIN COUNTRY COUNTRY 2008 Traveler’s Guide to Grand Teton & Yellowstone

Vacation Adventures Boating • Hiking • Climbing Biking • Rodeo • Fishing Mountain Towns National Parks Area Map Wildlife 1988 Yellowstone Fires! 20 Years After FREE

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Explore On the Cover: Cameron Garnick surveys the mountains around Ross Lake in the Wind River Range. Cow- MOUNTAIN COUNTRY boy, outdoorsman, showman, actor, hunter, father, Cameron Garnick passed away last fall while guiding a hunter in the mountains he loved so much. His legacy lives on at the family’s Triangle C Dude Ranch and the Jackson Hole Playhouse. Contents page photos, clockwise from top left: Hiking in the Tetons; grizzly bear in the wild; bronc busting at the rodeo; white-water rafting on the Snake; Aaron Neville performs at Targhee; a cutthroat trout on the line. Publishers Bob Woodall & Wade McKoy dba Focus Productions, Inc. Editors Mike Calabrese, Wade McKoy, Bob Woodall Photo Editor Eric Rohr Art Director Janet Melvin Advertising Sales Jackson Hole & Pinedale NATURE RECREATION Kyli Fox, 307-733-6995 8 America’s National Parks 18 Hiking West Yellowstone Janet Melvin, 406-556-8655 12 Splender and Hope: the GYE 22 Biking Cody & Dubois Bob Woodall, 307-733-6995 14 1988 Yellowstone Fires: 20 Yrs. After 25 Community Pathways 26 Rafting the Snake River Copyright 2008 by Focus Produc- 60 Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center tions, Inc., P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, 67 National Bighorn Sheep Center 28 Kayaking Pioneers Wyoming, 83001. All rights reserved. No part of this publication 30 Regional Boating Information may be reproduced in any form TOWNS 32 Fishing without written permission from the publishers. 46 Jackson 36 Climbing 50 Teton Village Mountain Country is a free visi- 40 Skateboarding tor’s guide published annually in 55 Victor & Driggs 42 Rodeos May and distributed all summer at hundreds of locations 58 West Yellowstone 44 Horseback Riding throughout Jackson Hole, Cody, 61 Pinedale and other regional communities, 48 Snow King Resort and at information centers 64 Cody 50 Jackson Hole Resort throughout the region. To receive 67 Dubois a copy in the mail, send $5 to 55 Grand Targhee Resort Mountain Country, P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, Wyoming 83001. MAPS & MUSEUMS Our Web site, focusproductions.com, displays this magazine DIRECTORIES 63 Museum of the Mountain Man as well as the Jackson Hole Dining 68 Business Directory 66 Buffalo Bill Historical Center Guide and our winter traveler’s

guide, the Jackson Hole Skier. Cover Photo — Bob Woodall (3,4); Henry Holdsworth (2) McKoy (1,5,6); Bob Woodall Photos, clockwise this page — Wade 70 Greater Yellowstone Map CUSTOM JEWELRY BY JETER CASE

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www.focusproductions. com 2008 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 7 Clockwise from top left: The Sleeping Indian (Sheep Mountain) on the horizon; a pelican glides across the water; swans land among the flock; a grizzly bear forages for roots; a yellow warbler sings nature’s song

Facing page: The Tetons on a foggy morning, from left: the Middle, the Grand, and Teewinot

8 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2008 America’s National Parks Conserved unimpaired for the enjoyment of this and future generations

by Bert Raynes Photos by Henry Holdsworth—Wild by Nature Gallery

he first action by a nation to set Land destined never to be exploited try, and the first in the world. It’s some- Taside some publicly held land to satisfy for the benefit of the few, but held in times said that the national park idea is man’s inner needs and emotions—those public ownership to benefit all! Thus the “best idea the United States of Amer- needs and feelings you can satisfy if you began an entirely new public-land pol- ica ever had.” But even great original will let Yellowstone’s quiet off-road icy, coming when this nation was at risk concepts often must be refined, im- treasures do so—came during America’s and largely still unexplored and un- proved, and administered. Unforeseen savage Civil War. In 1864 Congress known. Coming at a time of war, these obstacles must be overcome. granted the Yosemite Valley to the State far-seeing and far-reaching actions to Perhaps the first challenge in Yellow- of California, with this explicit proviso: preserve were, indeed, remarkable. stone National Park was poaching. For “…that the premises shall be held for Just eight years later, in 1872, Con- in addition to the geysers, the hot public use, resort, and recreation; shall gress authorized Yellowstone National springs, the falls, the forests and lakes, be held inalienable for all times.” Park, the first national park in the coun- and the yellow stone itself, were ample Nature is dynamic. The park is always changing... It responds to fires, droughts, climate change, and to varying views on how best to manage facilities and its animals and fish. Need I mention political pressures? Them too. numbers of large animals, both prey and Moose calves stick together, certain predator. It very soon became apparent that their mother is market-hunting slaughter had to be prohib- nearby. ited, and was in 1883. By 1894, protection A mountain lion for large game animals within Yellowstone mother and cub in was legislated, even as the then-new idea the lair. of range management was emerging. And in 1903 President Theodore Roosevelt recognized that the killing off of predators— in this instance mountain lions—has a deleterious effect upon their prey (elk and deer) and ordered it stopped. (Wolves, however, were exterminated in the park and were, in 1995, reintroduced, restoring that essential component of wild creatures belonging there.) Eventually, in 1916, Congress established the National Park Service, whose purpose and management philosophy are worth being re- minded of: “The Service thus established shall promote and regulate the use of Federal areas known as parks, monuments, and restorations hereinafter specified by such means and measures as conform to the fundamental purpose of said parks, monuments and reservations, which purpose is to conserve the scenery and the natural and historic objects and the wildlife therein and to provide for the enjoyment of the same in such manner and by such means as will leave them unimpaired for the enjoyment of future generations.” As you visit Yellowstone National Park, Grand Teton National Park, the six national forests, wildlife refuges, and the private lands surrounding it, comprising what has become known as the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem (GYE), you will experience today’s snapshot. Nature is dynamic. The park is always changing, albeit within those directives. It responds to fires, droughts, climate change, and to varying views on how best to manage facilities and its animals and fish. Need I mention political pressures? Them too. Today, thanks largely to the wisdom and foresight of all those who established the parks and the National Park System and those who have administered it through a learning process since 1872, there remains a place set 10 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2008 apart for man and for the beasts. Opportunity elk, coyote to ground squirrel, bald eagle to Come Explore the World of the for you, and habitat for them. Your chance to trout—some 60 animal species and a possible Rocky Mountain Bighorn Sheep see herds of bison in scenes reminiscent of bird list of over 300 species. Not to mention what early denizens and then explorers wit- insects and allied species, from butterflies to nessed in the 1800s. spiders, moths to What Lewis and mosquitoes. And Clarke documented, ticks. Wildlife going although they never about their lives came closer than pretty much as they about 100 miles of have done for thou- what is now Yellow- sands of years. stone National Park. Do take time to Perhaps you will absorb the scenery, spot a pack of the endless vistas wolves in pursuit of and the small some prey, or a griz- A pine martin hunts for squirrels. scenes. Fill your Photo: Michael P.Flaherty at the zly bear digging for some delicacy. Bald ea- eyes and mind with the shining mountains, NATIONAL BIGHORN SHEEP gles, trumpeter swans, a pair of sand hill the snow-capped peaks, the play of light and cranes. Otters with a trout. distance in the forests, the clarity of the wa- INTERPRETIVE CENTER Exhibits • Tours • Life-Sized Dioramas What you are seeing and experiencing in ters, the expanse of sky. Or the drops of rain An enjoyable and educational your visit will look deceptively unchanged gathering on the leaves and dripping off. Fair experience for everyone. and unchanging. It distinctly is not. As Henry days or storms. "Sheep Mountain," photos & hands-on David Thoreau noted, decades before Yel- And give thanks for that “best idea.” exhibits draw visitors into the majestic range & habitats of these lowstone National Park was created, “All na- Bert Raynes writes a weekly column in the magnificent animals. ture is a new impression every instant.” What Jackson Hole News & Guide. He has written Unique Gift Shop you are seeing actually is a success story, four publications covering the birds and ani- Summer Hours: 9am-8pm daily somewhat like Franklin’s observation about mals of Grand Teton and Yellowstone national 307-455-3429 our Republic: “If you can keep it.” parks. His most recent book, Winter Wings, 907 W. Ramshorn • Dubois, WY Wildlife remains in abundance, from the joins Valley So Sweet and Curmudgeon Chroni- www.bighorn.org wolf to the bison, black and grizzly bear to cles in receiving well-deserved, wide acclaim. Wildlife MMMMMMMMMM Expeditions

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www.focusproductions. com 2008 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 11 LOOK YE WHILE YE MAY...... upon one of a few places left on earth where wildlife and its habitat yet flourish. by Bert Raynes

Calypso Karen Zambos Couture Mint Tocca Nanette Lepore Robert Graham Men Lacoste Men Women AG Adriano Goldschmied Men Women Photos by Henry Holdsworth—Wild by Nature Gallery Photos by Henry Holdsworth—Wild Habitual Denim The colorful Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River—a big, rugged landscape.

Loomstate Fill your eyes and mind with the shining mountains, the snow-covered steppes, the blue 100% Organic skies, the play of light and distance in the forests, the animals braving the season. In all too many places on earth, man has altered his pre-existing habitat so drastically that many animal and plant species have vanished. Extirpated, gone forever. Overall, worldwide, the scene and scenario for wildlife imals going about their lives largely as they have been verges on the tragic—innumerable species disappearing doing for thousands of years, behaving in response to in- each year, each day—far above previous rates of extinc- stincts which evolved over millions of years (modified to tion in prehistoric times. Deforestation, desertization, sin- various extents by the presence of post-industrial man gle-crop farming practices, overfishing, human during the last two centuries). overpopulation, and pollution are responsible. Preserving what you see hasn’t been easy. By 1872, Some surviving species were forced to move else- when America created Yellowstone as the world’s first na- Calypso Enfant where, if they could, or to modify their behavior to tional park, much of the continental eastern United States exist—or coexist—within the confines or interstices had been altered or defiled. Forests had been denuded, Da-Nang Kids of their new situation. Come to that, man increasingly soil erosion in the plains was deliberate and would be- is forced to do the same. Yet our understanding of, and come deadly, animal and fish species were, or would Splendid Littles compassion for, wildlife’s welfare appear to be declining shortly be, decimated. at an accelerating rate. A sorry record, which extends into today, and not Paper Denim & Thankfully, in a few places on the planet, for reasons compensated for by a slow-growing awareness of the ab- of enlightened thought and concern, or more likely, a dis- solute need for conservation and protection. Look ye Cloth Baby interest in them or their habitat, wildlife yet flourish in a while ye may at the wonders of Greater Yellowstone and Petit Bateau relatively natural state. A few places only, despite an in- reflect that it could be lost, as it is always under attack, al- creasing body of knowledge which points to the need for ways coveted for other uses. You might want to ally your- Kids there to be very large areas set aside for many animals self with some of the organizations that devote their even to have a chance to exist in something like their pre- energies to retaining or reclaiming some of the continent’s Lacoste homoerectus conditions. natural resources and treasures. This is one of those places. While it’s not possible to return even the Yellowstone C+C Kids When you visit large parks like Yellowstone and Grand region to prehistoric splendor, there have been steps taken Joe’s Jeans Teton national parks, yet buffered from urbanization by in that direction. The wolf was absent for most of the surrounding national forests and all together making up 1900s, man having eliminated and subsequently reintro- the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, take every opportu- duced the region’s top predator. Its return is to be cele- nity to absorb all the scenery you can lay your eyes on: brated. The wolf belongs in Yellowstone, along with grizzly 307-734-0067 endless vistas and small scenes, bear and vole and squir- and black bears, the largest herds of elk in North America, 105 E. BROADWAY rel and bison; vast expanses not altered by man; wild an- bighorn sheep, and over 60 other mammal species.

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Two bull moose square off, the Teton range a distant backdrop. It’s now recognized that biodiversity requires large your eyes and mind with the shining mountains, the areas in which to behave normally: even large parks like snow-covered steppes, the blue skies, the play of light and Yellowstone aren’t guarantees for distance in the forests, the animals ...even large parks like • 12.1-megapixel FX-format wildlife, or for those who wish to ob- braving the season. For a wild animal, • Continuous shooting at up to 9 fps Yellowstone aren’t serve wildlife literally wild...espe- surviving in the Greater Yellowstone • Extreme low-noise from ISO 200-6400 cially when crocheted with roadways guarantees for wildlife, or for Ecosystem requires luck, skill, and • Nikon's exclusive EXPEED digital image and trails. The effects of a road, a vis- those who wish to observe good instincts and genes. processing system itors’ center, or campgrounds are So, look ye while ye may. And • Selectable 12-bit or 14-bit A/D conversion wildlife literally wild... manifold. Foot or horse trails are you still can, in the GYE, see various • Two LiveView shooting modes major dislocations. Isolation is, except especially when crocheted animals responding primarily to • Virtual Horizon graphic level indicator for the exceptionally hardy, lost. with roadways and trails. long-held instinctual behavior and • Built-in Active D-Lighting Ah, but what is left is splendid; relatively little to modern man and you can wait until you get home to join the conservation his many implements. It’s important and rewarding to movement, but don’t forget to do it. Right now, though, fill observe them.

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www.focusproductions. com 2008 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 13 Fire! —20 Years After The 1988 Yellowstone fires shaped history and forest-fire knowledge

“The reports of my death have been gress and the White House, lightning and 10,000, 20,000, maybe 40,000 acres at the greatly exaggerated” — Mark Twain a cigarette had touched off much more most. The forest needed fire (italics than forest fire. added). Of course, if we had known what An eye-watering haze infused the re- Had nature and man—albeit unwit- was going to happen we would have done gion’s normally crystal-clear air. Trees ex- tingly—conspired to bring about this fiery things differently.” ploded into red infernos as flames shot assault on one of the country’s most In fact, those who did know Yellow- upward 300 feet. Giant smoke plumes revered natural wonders? stone felt confident that 1988 would be rose 30,000 feet into the Western skies Perhaps. no different from past years. In Rocky above America’s first national park, its When summer 1988 rolled around, the Barker’s book Scorched Earth, Yellowstone crown jewel. West was in its second year of parching Park biologist Don Despain explains that The Yellowstone was ablaze. drought conditions. “since 1979 the winters had been getting Not only was the great conflagration of “Yes, the West was in a drought, ” Yel- drier, and springs and summers wetter. 1988 racing over the landscape of Yellow- lowstone National Park Superintendent The unusual wet spring would be fol- stone National Park (YNP), it was blazing Robert Barbee told Micah Morrison in his lowed by a wetter summer, Despain had across the front pages of newspapers na- book Fire In Paradise, “but Yellowstone surmised. In other years with dry winters, tionwide and filling nightly news reports. was wetter than many parts of the West. rains would arrive in July, making it diffi- The firestorms that had ignited hun- April and May had seen precipitation well cult for fire to get a start in the pines.” dreds of thousands of acres of kiln-dry above normal. June was dry, but my ex- The first fire of the season, on May forest were also fueling acrimonious and perts predicted that summer rains would 29, was quickly doused by the very thun- incendiary debate nationwide. From the come, as they always had, bringing 2 to 4 derstorm that started it. “From then on, park’s gateway towns choking down- inches of precipitation. We expected an ac- however,” Barker states, “the forest and wind in the smoke, to the halls of con- tive but not highly unusual fire season— rangelands began to dry out uncharac-

Story and photos by Bob Woodall had partly disrupted this natural fire progression and The race was on. much of Yellowstone had again reached stage-four condi- Over the next two months, the Yellowstone fires gripped tions, the final and most volatile. the nation. As the fires tore across park landscape, cries of In 1972, to “right” this situation, Yellowstone had put into “put them out” rose across the land as well. Soon the Park place the new “natural-regulation” policy. Lightning-caused Service’s terminology of “prescribed natural fire” was widely fires would be allowed to burn as long as they met certain supplanted with the somewhat derogatory term, “Let-burn.” criteria. Between 1972 and 1987, 234 fires had burned nearly To the public and much of the media, the solution 35,000 acres, apparently sparking no problems or concerns. was simple: Put out the fires! After all, fire was evil, and But 1988 was not to be just another year. it was “destroying” their beloved Yellowstone. The media By early July of 1988 eight natural fires were burning did its part in fanning the flames of public opposition in the Yellowstone. Park officials saw no need to extinguish too. News reports of Yellowstone’s destruction spread like them: after all, the pattern of dry winters had always been the wildfire itself. followed by wet summers. But could the fires actually have been stopped? Official- But on July 15 the 300-acre Clover fire suddenly ex- post-fire reviews concluded that many of the early fires in- ploded to 4,700 acres and shot the summer’s first column deed could have been extinguished with aggressive initial of smoke 20,000 feet into the air. attacks. That was not the policy, however, until it was too late.

teristically. The Palmer Drought Severity Index, the official formula developed by the National Weather Service to measure burning conditions by fire officials, went from severe to extreme in less than a month. The Yellowstone fire officials didn’t use or look at it.” Morrison’s book also suggests blind spots in the park fire plan. “Yet by the time Yellowstone officials came to fully accept that this was no ordinary fire season,” writes Morri- son, “it was too late. Some have argued that Yellowstone could have hit every single fire hard and early and there would have been no tremendous conflagrations. But that was not the mission. ” Ironically, the mission embraced at that time was known as “natural regulation.” “Smokey Bear’s army In Guardians of Yellowstone, a memoir published after the fires by Dan Sholly, chief ranger for YNP, Sholly ex- of firefighters was plains the natural-regulation philosophy: “Yellowstone humbled by Black was not meant to be a regulated collection of animals or plants like those in a conservatory or ranch. Instead it was Saturday and the fire supposed to be more of a preserve, where nature’s players behavior they saw in could interact undisturbed. "…Letting nature again take over and burn the the days after it.” forests, as it had been doing since the last ice age,” Sholly continues, “was simply another logical step in the ongoing The reviews also concluded that the fires that began attempts of the Park Service to return the park’s ecology, after July 14, which included the cigarette-, man-caused as much as possible, to its original state.” North Fork fire, most likely could not have been Fire was nothing new to the forests and prairies of Amer- stopped, anyway. ica. Not just a phenomenon left to Mother Nature, Native The North Fork Fire would dominate most of the Americans had been using fire for thousands of years. “They news and suppression efforts for the rest of the sum- used it with abandon,” writes Alston Chase in Playing God mer. “Its ignition by man was secondary to the fuel in Yellowstone. “They kept fires in camps for warmth, cook- and weather conditions that made it big,” writes ing, communication, and for warding off predators in the Barker. “In this season when decisions about fighting night. They burned around their campsites to keep the brush fires and letting them burn were blurred, miscon- away and the bugs down. They burned woods to open trails strued, and misunderstood, the major issue was and make roads. They burned to prevent the buildup of com- largely lost on all: Yellowstone’s fire overwhelmed bustibles that would later cause a climactic and dangerous human capacities in the same way that floods, hurri- forest fire. Recent research has established that the Indian canes, and volcanoes can.” practice of burning around Yellowstone was not only wide- August 20, which saw winds gust to 70 miles per spread, but had been practiced for millennia (italics added).” Photos, clockwise from facing page: A crown fire erupts hour, would be dubbed Black Saturday: the Yellow- Most scientists agree that fire is a vital part of the for- on the shore of Yellowstone Lake; the next spring and stone fires doubled in size in one day, reaching est’s natural ecosystem and that it progresses through four summer saw vigorous regrowth of many plant species; a 480,215 acres. plume from the Huck Fire, which started on “Black Sat- stages of ecological succession after a major fire. urday” when a tree blew across a power line, quickly Barker continues, “All of Yellowstone now ap- Charcoal layers in YNP indicate that large fires take rose to over 30,000 feet; smoke clouds shadow a freshly peared as one hug -e fire, and it was clear that nature, Wade McKoy photo bottom right Wade place every 250 to 400 years. But fire suppression policy burned forest. not humans, was in full control. After Black Satur- www.focusproductions. com 2008 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 15 by firefighters and fire ecologists as ‘stand-replacing fires.’ They are considered an integral and necessary part of a forest’s life cycle. But the last time a stand-replacing fire of this size had scoured the Yellowstone plateau was in the 1700s. By 1988 the forest was once again cocked and loaded. All it needed were the weather conditions to set it off. But an attitude of “fire is evil” had come to grip the public and the media. A “Bambi–Smokey the Bear” mind- set had taken over. So regardless of any good that fire might bring, the prevailing attitude by 1988 was that the massive fires signaled the “destruction” of Yellowstone. “Yellowstone’s fires over- In fact, as the North Fork fire was bearing down on Old Faithful, Tom Brokaw on the NBC Nightly News said as whelmed human capacities much: “This is what’s left of Yellowstone tonight. No one in the same way that argues that it will take decades to fix, but already the process has started.” floods, hurricanes, and At least he got one thing right. The process had indeed volcanoes can.” started. And while the political firestorm continued, the egg of Yellowstone’s Phoenix was ready to hatch and rise This fire crew, clad in the distinctive yellow fireproof Nomex shirts, were just a small part of the over from the ashes. 50,000 personel that worked for 3 months to control the Yellowstone fires. The hopscotch nature of the fire had created a com- day, all but the most stubborn fire-suppression advocates plex mosaic of burned and unburned patches. The final had to acknowledge that all the technology, and all the ex- 1989 survey reported that nearly a third of the park, pertise, and all the firefighters they could muster couldn’t 800,000 acres, had been affected: 323,000 acres were stop these fires. Smokey Bear’s army of firefighters was “canopy burns,” whereby all trees were killed, and humbled by Black Saturday and the fire behavior they saw 280,000 acres were “mixed burn,” a combination of in the days after it.” canopy burns and surface burns in which some trees sur- September 6 witnessed one of the conflagration’s last vived (the mosaic). Sage and grassland burns, isolated great runs. Old Faithful, the centerpiece of Yellowstone, was stands of trees, surface burns under unburned canopies, under siege, its imminent demise live on the NBC Nightly and a variety of other burn types made up the rest of the News with Tom Brokaw. The North Fork fire had advanced affected acreage. on the area faster than anticipated, trapping tourists and Many of Yellowstone’s plant species are ‘fire-adapted.’ concession employees. The press scrambled to capture the Some (not all) of the lodgepole pines have serotinous cones death scene as the firestorm swirled around everyone in that only open to release seeds when heated by fire. Where the Old Faithful area. these pines burned, 50,000 to 1 million seeds per acre were Throughout the chaos, the firefighters kept their heads released. A new cycle of forest growth was poised to erupt. and when the smoke cleared, the Old Faithful Inn and Fires also stimulated the regeneration of sagebrush, most of the area’s buildings remained intact. aspen, and willows. Though above-ground parts of The final siege would come on September 9 at Mam- In the spring of 1989, the mosaic pattern of the grasses and forbs were consumed by flames, the below- moth Hot Springs, park headquarters. The park was fi- fires was evident on many a hillside. ground root systems remained mostly unharmed. nally closed and HQ was being evacuated. Fire advanced In the spring and summer of from the south. Officials and firefighters were prepared 1989 the Phoenix hatched, spread its for the worst. But on September 10 the humidity rose and wings, and soared across the black- never dropped, and the wind blew a drizzle in on the fires. ened landscape of Yellowstone. On September 11, as if on cue, the first snows arrived. Lodgepole pine seedlings sprouted The cool, moist fall weather persisted, and the active by the billions, grasses flourished, fire season drew to a close. It took heavy November snows and wildflowers graced the land- to completely smother the embers. But the debate sim- scape. mered. Why had this inferno happened, and why was it Not only were the wildflowers allowed to rage on for so long? back, so too were the tourists and the media, intent on seeing and FIRE POLICY TO BLAME? telling the story of Yellowstone’s “re- It was widely believed that the ferocity of the 1988 fires birth.” Time to put a “smiley-face” resulted from decades of fire suppression and the conse- back on the “prescribed natural fire” quent build-up of flammable materials. But Baker questions policy. whether that was actually the case for Yellowstone in the But “rebirth” requires death, and summer of 1988. “Despain’s research clearly showed” he while the media and the public—in a writes, “that in the lodgepole forests that dominate Yellow- scene reminiscent of a Monty Python stone, fire is tied first to weather, climate, and wind. John movie—had been banging a drum in Burns, the former Targhee National Forest supervisor who 1988, telling park officials to, in a was the first to call for fighting fires in Greater Yellowstone in sense, “Bring out your dead,” Yellow- 1988, says the strongest evidence that suppression isn’t the stone cried out: “I’m not dead yet!” culprit is the 1910 fires themselves. No one had been fight- In the 20 years since the great ing fires on those forests before the burn.” (In 1910, over a fires of 1988, Yellowstone has shown million acres burned as fires swept across Montana and A crown fire consumes a stand of mature lodgepole pine. (Inset) Most that indeed it was not dead, but in Idaho, wiping towns from the map and killing 85 people.) of the lodgepole pines are ‘fire-adapted’ and have serotinous cones fact remained a flourishing and dy-

The massive burns of 1910 and 1988 are characterized that only open to release seeds when heated by fire. namic ecosystem, and although the McKoy photos left top and bottom Wade 16 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2008 In September 1988 a hillside near Midway Geyser Basin shows the fire’s damage. Ninteen years later the same hillside shows its recovery. fires were large and severe, plants had survived and from as to what might historically occur. We ended up fighters available. A lot of our requests went unfilled.” quickly blanketed the burned forests. with a natural laboratory that has allowed us to learn a Things could get worse before they get better: an old The footprint of the fire on the landscape will proba- great deal.” player, the bark beetle, is raising the stakes dramatically. bly persist for at least a century. For now, however, visitors He urges visitors to return to Yellowstone. “They need Across the Western forests, it is ravaging millions of acres are treated to stunning displays of vigorous new growth. to see what this place looks like now. We have an oppor- of pine and spruce. Forest service officials predict that in tunity to show people how this environment has re- the next three to five years, the forest in northern Colorado “We ended up with a natural sponded in 20 years. They can compare it and their own will be entirely killed off. laboratory that has allowed us experience and that of friends and family and get their And dead trees fuel fires. own scene of Yellowstone 20 years after the fire.” Once kept in check by sub-zero winters and well-watered to learn a great deal ... We forests, the beetle population is now exploding because of have an opportunity to show THE FUTURE? warmer winters and hotter, drier summers. But in Yellowstone, In 1988 the Yellowstone fires were considered an aber- according to Nash, “We don’t see anything as significant (as people how this environment ration. But it remains the single largest fire complex in the Colorado’s beetle kill) at this point. It is a big issue in the has responded in 20 years.” lower-48 states since 1988. Now, however, large fires seem Greater Yellowstone. We don’t know enough yet if it is coming to be the norm. Warmer climates are melting the moun- this way; we are keeping good tabs on it.” Despite this regeneration, and even after all this time, tain snowpack sooner and drought grips much of the The beetles, though, are nibbling at the park’s edges. notes Yellowstone Park Public Information Officer Al West. Since 1986, the fire season has grown by 78 days, Visitors traveling from Cody, Wyoming, may be shocked Nash, it is “still an ongoing struggle with the perception of with six times as many acres burned annually and by four by the vast tracks of beetle-killed trees covering the what they (the public) think happened and what really times as many fires of 1,000 acres or more. mountains above the North Fork of the Shoshone River happened. In Yellowstone several large fires have burned since 1988. and beyond Sylvan Pass. “Visitors have an image of this park,” he continues, “Our ongoing management here looks to allow natural fires Perhaps the invasion has been mounted and another “and some people have the expectation that there will not to go on in pockets, so we have different age-class forest act of Yellowstone’s natural history is about to be written. be a change. ‘88 was quite a change, so it has been difficult across the park, and not one large fire as in 88,” says Nash. Fire and weather will always be the major players on na- for some to accept.” However, he adds, “We have been struggling. Last year ture’s vast stage. Enter now beetles and global climate in- Nash reminds people, “This was unprecedented. We we had our earliest reported fire in March.” And a fire near fluences, and the plot thickens like the smoke in 1988. In were not certain we knew what to expect (of the recov- the East Entrance “was a real challenge for us. We went at the end, the only thing certain about Yellowstone’s future ery). We had a limited amount of information to work it from the go, but there are fewer fire resources and fire- is that change will play a major role.

www.focusproductions. com 2008 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 17 Mountain Hiking The best avenue to sparkling lakes, stunning vistas, and wildlife

by Lora Bodmer love to walk, so for me, trails provide by fellow trail users and land stewards, the best avenues to the valley’s sparkling please keep dogs on leash or under voice lakes, stunning vistas, and wildlife. And control, diligently clean up after them, and while the prospects of walking around the restrain them around wildlife. jagged peaks of the Tetons can be daunting, While hiking seems fairly straightfor- many of these hikes are anything but. ward, some loose guidelines can help every- In choosing the best trail for your day one maximize their enjoyment of popular and group, keep a few things in mind. Day paths. Good trail etiquette requires yielding hikes in this area range from 1 to 21 miles to hikers going uphill and to horseback rid- and trailheads sit at upwards of 6,200 feet. ers. Staying on trails, rather than taking Try not to bite off more than your group can shortcuts, prevents erosion and reduces our chew. Jackson’s Search and Rescue team is impact on the environment and wildlife. already overworked and underfunded. Being aware of your surroundings, both vi- Dogs aren’t allowed on hiking trails in sually and aurally, can not only embellish Grand Teton and Yellowstone national your experience with the sounds of nature Photos, clockwise from top—Time for this hiker to gaze at the Grand Teton, Gun Site Notch, and Mt. Owen. Some high alpine lakes retain the parks, but trails in the national forests sur- but might also save you from a mountain turquoise color of glacial melt-water. Springs gush from the mountainside rounding Jackson Hole do allow them. To lion attack, a marauding moose, or a colli- like an opened fire hydrant, nurturing an abundance of ferns. ensure that they continue to be welcomed sion with a mountain biker.

18 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2008 Now, enough of the rules al- trails that reach a lake or overlook ready! Let’s get on the trails. Grand Teton in less than four miles. The Granite Strolls in the Forest National Park offers Canyon access begins on the south (4 miles or less) end of the park near Teton Village. Getting out to stretch your legs is some spectacular trails From there, a quick drive lands easy in the Cache Creek area on the hikers on a beautiful wooded trail east side of Jackson. The Hagen Trail that reach a lake or where wildlife often gathers in the is an undemanding hike and por- overlook in less than cool shade along the creek in tions of it run parallel to the creek. Granite Canyon. IMO’S DELI Look out, though, some sections are four miles. This year a new series of trails Located on Teton Village Rd. @ The Aspens also popular with mountain bikers. opens to the public in the LSR Pre- 307-733-6202 And the trail system is extensive, so check out the kiosk at serve, named after Laurance S. Rockefeller, who orches- Full Service Grocery and Deli Market the trailhead to weigh your options and find that quiet walk trated the donation of an additional 1,106 acres to the MEAT DEPARTMENT along the creek. park before he passed away in 2004. Find more informa- Natural USDA Choice Beef Grand Teton National Park offers some spectacular tion about the area at the new Preserve Center, on the Natural Pork and Chicken Fresh Fish Semi-prepared Entrees DELI Box Lunch • Boar’s Head products Prepared meals • Fresh pizza Cheeses—Gourmet and Imported GROCERY Ethnic and Natural Foods Organic Dairy & Produce Selections Catering and Party Trays available Your Friendly Westbank Grocer The Westside Store and Imo’s Deli 4015 West Lake Creek Dr. Wilson, WY 83014 Phone 307-733-6202 Fax 307-733-8595 [email protected] WESTSIDE WINE & SPIRITS

The biggest and best selection of fine wines, beers and spirits on the West Bank Located at The Aspens, Teton Village Rd. 307-733-5038 [email protected] westsidewineandspirits.com Photos — top left: Wade McKoy; bottom left: Bob Woodall; right: Jeff Diener McKoy; bottom left: Bob Woodall; Photos — top left: Wade

www.focusproductions. com 2008 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 19 River bottom jaunts, usually the angler's domain, can produce surprisingly rewarding encounters with nature. winding country lane known as the Moose-Wilson Road. and a destination of the lake, ripe for a picnic. Park at the sparse the rest of the way. Shave off some of the mileage by These relatively easy trails lead from the preserve to Phillips Canyon trailhead and start walking along the hopping on the Jenny Lake boat, which departs from the Phelps Lake and the Tetons. well-marked trail system. south-lake parking area throughout the day. Taggart Lake has a perfect loop trail, which makes it a A little higher up at the top of the pass, a hiking trail Full-day Hikes (over 10 miles) perennial favorite. The well-maintained route skirts heads south along the ridge. Enjoy ample wildflowers For the hardiest crews, who are ready to get an early through the glacial moraines at the base of the Teton Cathe- and panoramic views, with the ability to turn around at start and go for it, here are some full-day adventures. dral Group. At the halfway point, hikers reach Taggart Lake, any point. You’ll have to wait until next summer for the Jackson Hole a perfect spot for gazing up at the magnificent peaks. Opposite Teton Pass, on the east side of Jackson Hole Aerial Tram to provide access to longer hikes, so until Jenny Lake has been rated by some as the most beau- in the Gros Ventre mountain range, Goodwin Lake awaits. then most of the well-marked hikes over 10 miles origi- tiful place in America. See it up close by walking along its A three-mile hike from the trailhead reveals the peaceful, nate in the park. shores to Hidden Falls, or simply pay a modest fee and take wooded lake. Sometimes its placid waters teem with The hike to Holly Lake starts by circling String Lake the boat shuttle across. From the boat dock, a short hike to brook trout. Stop here or, if you are feeling hardy, charge before heading up Paintbrush Canyon. It climbs over 2,500 Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point—a super highway of feet to a Shangri-La of wildflowers and sparkling water. families and high-heeled stumblers during the height of The 12-mile-plus hike demands a hearty picnic lunch and summer—affords countless photo ops. To add distance The hike to Holly Lake climbs plenty of snacks and water. and get away from the crowds, venture from Inspiration The Lupine Meadows parking area is the starting Point into Cascade Canyon as far as your time allows. over 2,500 feet to a Shangri-La of point for a few longer hikes with some serious vertical. Just north of Jenny Lake a series of fairly flat trails wildflowers and sparkling water. Surprise and Amphitheater lakes sit high on the Teton wrap around String and Leigh lakes. Get a taste of the wet- Range at the foot of some classic, rock-climbing routes. lands, sand beaches, and mountain peaks in a walk under At one point on the series of switchbacks leading up from four miles. String Lake is a popular swimming area due to past the lake another mile-and-a-half to the top of Jack- the parking area, there is the option to turn off toward its shallow, warmer waters. “Warm,” however, is a relative son Peak. Garnet Canyon. The mouth of the canyon hosts a field of term: many travelers might not use it to describe any of In GTNP, combine the shorter Taggart Loop Trail with boulders, but climbing through them is worth it for the the snow-fed lakes or ponds residing at 6,300 feet. the Bradley Lake Trail to add a few more miles and an peaceful meadow resting at the base of the Middle and Half- to Whole-day Excursions extra lake to the adventure. Head out to Bradley and then Grand Tetons. Black Bears are very common on this route, (4 to 9 miles) cut over the hill to hike the switchbacks down to Taggart so remember to make noise to let them know you’re there. While the next two hikes aren’t much longer than for a trip of just over five miles. Give all wild animals a comfortable distance and try not those previously described, they start on Teton Pass A slightly longer, but flatter, alternative is the Jenny to startle them. around 2,000 feet above the valley floor, making every Lake Loop. The almost eight-mile hike follows the cir- One of the most challenging, yet rewarding, hikes mile a bit more strenuous. When the crowds head for the cumference of Jenny Lake, with stunning views up Cas- leads up Paintbrush Canyon to Lake Solitude and down park in mid-summer, the Ski Lake Trail remains peace- cade Canyon. Crowds will be found around the section into Cascade Canyon. The hefty 20 miles on the Paint- ful. The almost five-mile round-trip provides valley views from the south-lake parking area to the boat dock, but are brush/Cascade Canyon Loop marches trekkers up 4,000

20 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2008 vertical to Paintbrush Divide and then down through the mellow, creek-side Cascade Canyon Trail. Solitude Lake sits at the halfway point, providing exactly what its name implies. It can be done in one day, but people often opt to get a camping permit and make it a two-day adventure. summertime After scaring away a few friends with the wrong choice in day hikes, Lora Bodmer, owner of Jackson-based Deep Communications, learned that moderation is key to bringing loved ones back for visits year after year. Photos — Wade McKoy Photos — Wade Swimming is a hiking activity, too, especially in July when lakes have warmed. Read up There are hundreds of hiking opportunities in Jackson Hole. Local outdoor and bookstores provide volumes of trekking information to keep you busy for a few days—or a lifetime—in the Tetons. While most of the books use Grand Teton in the title, all but one contain hikes that go beyond the national park and into Jackson and the surrounding mountains. Teton Village Sports is your source for everything outdoors including fishing, disc golf, swimming, trekking, running, biking, Jackson Hole Hikes by Rebecca Woods, $16.95 hiking and a huge selection of men’s and women’s sportswear. Woods’ three decades in Jackson Hole help to build what would be best described as Located at the gateway to Grand Teton National Park, stop by and an encyclopedia of local trails. With well over 100 hikes spread across surrounding get outfitted with the things you need for your time in Jackson Jackson Hole and the park, this book could keep even the most ambitious local high- Hole. We also enjoy winter all year long with skis, snowboards, stepping for years. In addition to detailed trail information, Jackson Hole Hikes fea- boots, outerwear and accessories at savings of up to 70% off. tures basic wildlife and plant information and local history. Day Hikes in Grand Teton by Robert Stone, $11.95 When I first moved to Jackson Hole, I didn’t have a clue where to start or friends to show the way. What I did have was Stone’s book of day hikes. Throughout the year, WinterWinter allall I worked my way through almost every one of his 72 recommendations, never getting lost. It is basic, but provides just what a hiker needs: maps, directions, and dis- summer tances in a fairly compact package. summer up to Grand Teton Short Hikes by Carl Schreier, $3.95 long In addition to a much more extensive volume on hiking the Tetons, Schreier pub- long 70% OFF lishes a pocketsize, big-value version filled with shorter hikes. It has a small sampling of half- to whole-day hikes in the park and around Jackson Hole. A Falcon Guide: Best Easy Day Hikes Grand Teton by Bill Schneider, $7.95 Jackson’s mountain recreation If your hiking will be contained within the national park, this pocketsize, straightforward specialists for over book is a solid choice. It is in the familiar Falcon Guide format and includes a limited selection of hikes, but still more than anyone could cover in a week. 40 years. Day Hikes and Short Walks of Grand Teton National Park by Charlie Craighead, photos by Henry H. Holdsworth, $4.95 This guide selects the best short hikes and easy walks from the over 250 miles of trails that wind through Grand Teton National Park and includes maps, hiking tips, scenic highlights, and natural history notes of the trails. It works well for those who may only have a day or want to explore several different places over a week. 733-2181 Best of Grand Teton National Park by Charlie Craighead, Open Daily photos by Henry H. Holdsworth, $4.95 Crystal Springs Lodge This guide presents the park’s best natural features, activities, and sights as se- in Teton Village lected by the experts. From best bets to see moose to the best places to go on a rainy day, this guide features the wildlife, wildflowers, hikes, history, scenic drives, and classic photo spots you don’t want to miss.—Lora Bodmer www.tetonvillagesports.com

www.focusproductions. com 2008 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 21 by Brigid Mander hen Jackson Hole snow finally melts, locals find plenty of adrenalin-based ways to pass the time until the next ski season. One that fits into all walks of life is the hugely popular biking scene. Cyclists are out in force during Jackson summers, and they form a vast community, from bicycle commuters to serious roadies, from body armor-clad, gravity-riding girls and boys to toddlers with training wheels on the paved bike paths. The buzz surrounding Jackson as a mountain-biking destination grows every year. Steep terrain, huge vertical, vast open spaces, and diverse natural features define the area’s potential. In 2004, local U.S. Forest Service officials realized that the growing popularity of mountain biking called for action. A Wyoming State Trails Grant helped get development of a new trail plan off the ground. Shortly afterwards, a crew of dedicated local bikers formed the non-profit Teton Freedom Riders (www.tetonfree- domriders.org), to boost mountain-biking’s profile and promote cooperation among riders and the Forest Service. In their short tenure as caretakers of bike trails on Teton Pass and the Greater Snow King Area, these volunteers have worked with the Forest Service to build safe and challenging trails, ease conflicts among equestrians, hikers, and other users, and promote responsible mountain biking through education. With trails coveted by hikers, dog walkers, horse riders, runners, and mountain bikers, ‘respect and responsibility’ has become the mantra to ensure everyone can get along. Trails on Teton Pass range from intermediate to world-class gaps and drops. Hardy cyclists often ride up the Old Pass Road, while others shuttle their bikes to the summit by car. But once at the top, everyone enjoys a bit of rolling, uphill single-track and spectacular views as they ride out to their downhill trail of choice. New multi-use paths, coming in 2008, are designed with the cross-country mountain biker in mind. One such trail starts midway up the Teton Pass highway and easily gains the top of Phillips For an ever-growing community of bicyclists, Mountain&Road Biking Jackson Hole Rocks!

Ridge, then offers a long spectacular intermediate descent back to the valley floor. Other routes, thanks to Teton Freedom Riders (TFR) and in compliance with the Forest Service, are downhill-specific trails, and part of the first network of legal trails on National Forest land reserved primarily for downhill biking. This mix of enhanced natural features is a result of cooperating with the Forest Service. These descents sport features that will challenge the boldest riders. But all the downhill trails also provide easy ways to avoid the man-made log drops, dirt jumps, or rock rides. “We wanted it that way,” says Kevin Kavanagh, TFR’s president. “It’s a pro- gressive sport. You don’t just go out and hit thirty-foot gaps the first time you see one.” The Cache Creek trailhead, in East Jackson, and the Greater Snow King Area offer a much wider choice of trails than Teton Pass, with a network of buffed-out interlocking loops, ascents and descents, and less-technical, shorter rides. These and the Teton Pass trails—maintained by TFR, Friends of Pathways, and the Forest Service—can be previewed in TFR’s field guide, available

for free in local bike shops, or on the Friends of Pathways website. McKoy left: Jeff Diener; bottom left and top right: Wade Photos — Top

Jackson Hole’s single-track trails provide mountain bikers with ideal riding conditions, especially during the height of wildflower season. The Tetons, of course, are hemmed in by ing,” says an ever-enthusiastic Pete. “When I valleys on both sides, and many riders head first moved here [six years ago], if you saw a over to the Idaho side of Teton Pass, seeking bike on a roof rack you knew exactly who they terrain and scenery that differs a bit from were. Now bikes are everywhere!” Jackson Hole’s. The area surrounding Driggs Beautiful, challenging terrain can be ac- and Victor, Idaho, boasts more rolling terrain cessed from the 12 trailheads within 15 min- and cross-country type trails than the Jack- utes of Driggs. Teton Valley Trails and son area. A fair number of Idaho routes have a Pathways (www.tvtap.org) also produce a wonderful, pastoral feel to them. trail map, available in shops on both sides of Still, Driggs-based semi-pro downhill Teton Pass. racer Pete Maniaci finds plenty of challenges For novices and up, Grand Targhee is expanding its lift-served mountain-biking trails Cyclists range from this summer. Several top-to-bottom trails offer a variety of terrain for bikers. On the bicycle commuters to other side of the pass, Jackson Hole Mountain serious roadies, from Resort has 7.5 miles of trail networks on its lower mountain. body armor-clad Many area bikers, like Amanda Carey, cross-train on roads and trails. When not downhillers to toddlers traveling the nation competing on the Kenda- with training wheels on Titus-Hayes professional mountain bike team, Amanda spends about 50 percent of her the paved bike paths. time training on local highways and roads. “This is such a great community to ride a bike in local trail features, enough to help him in in,” she says. “Everyone is really into getting his quest to climb competitive down-hilling’s people out on bikes.” ranks. Under the auspices of Teton Valley If you aren’t the type to sport a tee pro- Trails and Pathways, and with the help of ded- claiming, “I heart dirt,” you are still in luck. Road icated competitors like Pete, Idaho—particu- biking itself boasts its own strong following in larly the Teton Basin region—is gaining Road cyclists utilize all pavement—county roads, state highways, park the region, and for good reason. Serious local popularity as a biking destination. “It’s grow- roads, town streets, and pathways—to recreate, exercise, and commute. riders are out pounding the pavement as soon FAT TIRE TOURS

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www.focusproductions. com 2008 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 23 as the roads are free of snow, making for a long website for maps and other road-condition re- bike season. So, whether you want to coast along ports and future path plans. Steep terrain, huge vertical, vast open burbling creek waters or hammer out a grueling, Local bike shops stock everything riders mountainous century (100-mile session), you need: equipment, repair kits and tools, clothing spaces, and diverse natural features have your pick of options. Beautiful, scenic rides suited to our volatile weather changes, sun- define the area’s potential. stretch north, south, and even around the Tetons screen, maps, and a plenty of local knowledge. for those up for a multi-day trip. Be aware of the weather forecast for the day and Unfortunately, biking inside Yellowstone how long a ride could take. Anyone who has and Grand Teton national parks can be a har- been caught out after sunset or gotten soaked rowing experience amidst peak summer traffic. in a bone-chilling afternoon rainstorm won’t Early and late summer are much more enjoy- soon forget the misery. able times to experience these parks’ beauty Shop employees are more than happy to from a bicycle. offer information and increase interest in the If you don’t want to be near cars or dirt, sport. So don’t be afraid to ask questions before Jackson Hole Community Pathways and local you head out on the road or the trail—the in- advocate Friends of Pathways (www.friendsof- formation could make a great ride a truly spec- pathways.org) have worked hard on the devel- tacular one. opment of paved non-motorized pathways A freelance writer currently pedaling for interconnecting Teton Village to the food in Jackson Hole, Brigid Mander hopes Wilson/Teton Pass area, around Jackson and someday to be able to live in a house with south of town—over 30 miles to date. Check the running water. Bicycling West Yellowstone, Montana

West Yellowstone’s world-famous XC ski no motorized travel. Plowed in mid-March— trails do more than just go to seed when the the exact date is weather-dependent—park snow melts. And smart skiers swap their boards roads remain closed to motor vehicles until for bikes to take advantage of the summer sea- April 20. That gives bikers in West Yellowstone son’s call. From the edge of town cyclists can about a month to ride the park traffic-free and ride Rendezvous Ski Trails’ 30 kms of smooth, another month of light-traffic travel after the rolling single-track through forests of lodgepole roads are opened to all vehicles and before the pine. For info on these and other good moun- busy summer flow. The early season wildlife Photos — left page 2: Greg Von Doersten; right: Wade McKoy Doersten; right: Wade Photos — left page 2: Greg Von tain-bike routes on old logging roads and hiking viewing is spectacular! Follow the Madison Top and above: The Cache Creek trailhead, in East Jackson, and trails, check with West’s local bike shop. River for a short ride—or bike all the way to the Greater Snow King Area offer a network of buffed-out inter- Road bikers get a special treat in spring and Mammoth and back for a 104-miler. locking loops, ascents and descents, less-technical, shorter rides, fall, when Yellowstone park byways see little or — Mountain Country big climbs, day-long excusions—in other words, everything.

24 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2008 Community Pathways Walk, roll, take a stroll by Tim Young Pathways connect Jackson A momentous occasion in with south of town and Game the history of biking pathways Creek along the splendid Paul in Jackson Hole took place this Merritt and Von Gontard trails, spring—30 years after the ini- and extend farther south via tial discussions between path- the Henry’s Trail to Horse ways advocates and the U.S. Creek. These paths provide a Park Service. The highly cele- great connection to the popu- brated groundbreaking cere- lar Cache-Game mountain bike mony for a non-motorized loop—riders can skip the paved pathway system in Grand shuttle and ride the path back Teton National Park was at- to town for an added workout tended by Wyoming’s U.S. Sen- and reduced carbon emissions. ator John Barrasso, Grand Teton The Jackson Hole commu- National Park Superintendent nity is working hard to com- Mary Scott, and pathway sup- plete the main pathway porters from around the coun- system. Next up is the WY-22 try. Through the visionary pathway connecting Wilson to leadership of Wyoming’s late Jackson—a top priority to Senator Craig Thomas and the connect east and west sides of continuing support of his suc- the Snake River. A separate cessor, Senator Barrasso, Con- pathway bridge is also being gress appropriated about $10 considered. Leaders are plan- million to begin park pathway ning a tax ballot in November construction. to fund construction, and The inaugural phase The Paul Merritt Trail winds through South Park south of Jackson. previous pathway ballots planned for construction this summer is a four-mile have all passed with top voter approvals. section from Taggart Trailhead to Jenny Lake, plus a Future pathways in Grand Teton The community pathway system also includes con- short pathway in Moose. In 2009, the park hopes to fin- National Park will facilitate Jackson nections to other popular public land trails, like the Old ish the pathway connection from Moose to Jenny Lake Pass Road to the top of 8,431-foot Teton Pass. It follows and in the following years complete the world-class, 41- Hole’s transit shift from motor-only the historic highway that was in use from the early 1900s mile pathway system that will eventually join all the to multi-modal, with an emphasis until 1970, and is a classic switchback ascent of a high- major front-country destinations in the park. The park’s mountain pass like the famous ones in the Tour de France. new transportation plan also includes safety improve- on visitor-friendly, world-class The route is passable by road bike, and is often combined ments such as better shoulders for cyclists on some bicycle and pedestrian routes and with a loop down the main highway back to Wilson. main roads and information for motorists to more There is great hope for a connected regional pathway safely share all park roads with bicycles. a growing transit system. system in the near future as Jackson Hole, Grand Teton, This new path is the latest in an active pathway con- and Teton Valley all work to complete their pathways. struction program that is transforming travel throughout and tourists alike. You’ll see an eclectic collection of bikes, or These non-motorized routes will enhance sustainable Jackson Hole from “motor-only” to “multi-modal,” with a maybe even meet Jackson’s Mayor Mark Barron or Council- ways to travel throughout the Tetons. visitor-friendly focus on world-class bicycle and pedes- woman Melissa Turley heading to their next meeting via Tim Young is the executive Director of Friends of trian routes and a growing transit system. The valley now their trusty bicycles. Using non-motorized transportation is Pathways, the local non-profit advocacy group support- boasts over 30 miles of high-quality paved pathways, and becoming a part of the town and county’s commitment to re- ing pathways, complete streets, and great trails in Jack- leaders are focusing on connecting them by planning the ducing its carbon footprint 10% by 2010. son Hole and the region. remaining missing sections. Current favorites for many visitors are west-side pathways that connect historic Wilson at the base of Teton Pass with the Aspens, Teton Village, and Grand Teton National Park’s Granite Creek entryway. Two pathways, the Wilson Centennial and Moose Wilson Trail, provide about 10 miles of continuous paved pathways, all of it separated from the highways. The Wilson Centennial Trail boasts large open parks and interpretive stops, and new rest areas will welcome visitors this year along the Moose Wilson Trail, Ed Henry’s Bench, and Priscilla’s Spot on Granite Creek at the north end of the pathway. Maps are available at local bike and sports shops. The town of Jackson is the regional hub of these bicycle routes, and joins other leading communities in the Greater Yellowstone region that support high-use bicycle and pedestrian routes. Cycling and hoofing it around the town street grid is an increasingly viable option for short trips by locals

www.focusproductions. com 2008 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 25 River Rafting Alpine white-water and scenic float trips top vacation adventures

by Lauren M. Whaley front left, which means I controlled the tempo for the row bald eagles above and silent lodgepole pines holding post ur driver, Larry, chatted cheerily to his white school of paddlers behind me … and got the wettest. on rocky walls. At those moments, and those just before bus full of nervous, sleepy-eyed rafters en route to a After emerging safe and adrenaline-pumped from the plunging my paddle into the next wave, time stood still morning adventure of splashing and squealing. first rapid, I forgot the morning grogginess and started to and I noticed the sun sparkle, the branches above quiver, Meeting characters like Larry and other drivers, of- the clouds blow by. fice staff, and professional guides from outfitters around And, at each rock or turn, there was a story. Jackson Hole is just one of many reasons that rafting in “That there is called Vice President Rock,” Matt said. the Greater Yellowstone region is a summer vacation For the all-day adventurers, “That’s called Bear Cave.” must-do. outfitters offer a float/white- Some of the stories seemed a bit far-fetched, like The eight-mile white-water stretch of the Snake River the one about the car on the river bottom, but before just south of the town of Jackson may offer the finest one- water combo, where the we had time to turn around and question our guide, day introduction to rapids in the country. Visitors have morning is spent lolling down he’d shout “Left Forward” and I’d plunge my paddle many choices for experiencing the rapids, ranging from a into a rolling wave. self-guided sit-on-top kayak to a sit-back-and-relax fully the upper portion of the Snake The splash-and-squeal trips may sound burly, but guided ride. they’re totally family friendly. If my six-year-old sister The mist was rising from the valley as we gathered on and the afternoon is spent were tall enough when she visited last summer, I would a July morning for our rafting trip. It was cold. yelping down rapids. have taken her. “All aboard,” Larry called to the parking lot. For those who don’t want the responsibility of pad- We piled on—three girls from Baltimore, a family dling, but still want the experience, the middle seats are from Texas, an older couple from Syracuse, and several for you. Just hold on and enjoy the ride. singles from suburbs around the country. I was the only crave the roar of white water around each bend that prom- And don’t forget to smile at Big Kahuna Rapid. Pho- local but, like the rest of the group, a newbie to rafting the ised another stomach-dropping, hard-paddling, wet ride. tographers are shooting frames just as the raft enters the Snake River. I wanted more. giant frothing hole at the end. Once you’re back in town Head guide Matt Lynn doled out paddles. I claimed On the flatter sections in between rapids, we glimpsed you can purchase the photos.

26 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2008 Photos — left: Bob Woodall; right: Greg Von Doersten right: Greg Von Photos — left: Bob Woodall; Left: The famous rapids of the Snake River Canyon thrill adventurous rafters, especially those who man the oars. Above: Scenic float trips on the upper Snake River provide moments of silence and reflection worthy of the setting.

Don’t want to get wet and wild? Try a scenic trip. This forests give way to cottonwoods and aspens. You may even float often starts in Grand Teton National Park on a spot a river otter or beaver poking its head out of the sparkly bit of the Snake River winding below the Teton Snake to watch you. Range. On this mellow float, you’ll sunbathe, eat, and enjoy For the all-day adventurers, some outfitters offer a the quiet while looking out for some of the region’s fa- float/white-water combo, where the morning is spent mous fauna. lolling down the upper portion of the Snake and the af- Moose, elk, deer, bison, pronghorn antelope, black ternoon is spent yelping down rapids. Shuttle service, life- and—sometimes—even grizzly bear can all be seen jackets, and paddles are also included, and you’ll often along the shore. find Larry waiting at the end passing out cold sandwiches The relaxing upper stretch of braided, meandering to drenched, smiling customers. BARKER-EWING water will take you past what feels like vast wilderness. Lauren M. Whaley hopes one day to find a meaning- River Trips Keep your eyes and ears open, as your guide will share sto- ful, structured job. Until then she continues her freelance ries of the valley’s history, point out blooming wildflowers, writing career while seeking adventure in Jackson Hole whitewater & scenic trips, 4-hour to overnight and detail the geology of some of the youngest mountains and beyond. www.barker-ewing.com in our country, all while dense spruce and lodgepole 1.800.448.4202 307.733.1000 Your Adventure Starts Here!

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Box 10940 1255 South Highway 89 Jackson Hole, WY 83002 Alpine Kayaking The Shorter They Got, The Steeper We Went

By Aaron Pruzan ackson Hole is world-famous for its great snow. But what happens when that white blanket melts? It turns into white water, also worthy of worldly repute. For years, river runners from near and far have enjoyed the classic white water of the mighty Snake River, the tumultuous Gros Ventre River, and the scenic Bitch Creek, to name a few. Throughout the ‘60s and ‘70s most kayakers were content with the annual thrill of riding the runoff down fun and familiar rapids. But some boaters yearned for more. And, as with most sports that involve dancing with gravity, improved technology helped these adventurers push the boundaries. Early river-running kayaks were fiberglass. One word changed that—plastics. In the ‘80s, molded plastic kayaks like the 11’ 6” Perception Dancer (most white-water kayaks at the time were 12-to-13 feet long) became popular, and challenging difficult white water became a new game. Suddenly, hitting a rock didn’t mean a broken boat. Steeper rivers and creeks, many channeling insane white water and previously considered unnavigable, began to look good. Local “hair boaters,” like Dave Pennington, Charlie Thomas, and Oly Koehler, began to probe the possibilities. This involved exploring farther up drainages like the Upper South Fork of the Buffalo, or merely paddling what had previously been portaged, the Bone Yard on the Teton River, for example. As kayaking entered the ‘90s, boat designs began to radically change, and as a result, paddling techniques improved and adapted. Dagger introduced a high-performance plastic boat called the Freefall. Super maneuverable at only 9’ 6” long, everyone in the region witnessed what the Freefall could do when an extraordinary boater named Gregg Goodyear moved to town. With superior boat handling skills and the ability to see a clean line through rapids that appeared impossible, Gregg was truly ahead of his time. Exploration of the vast, untouched white water of the Wind River Range began in earnest and I was lucky to be along for the ride. Whether we were pinballing down Blackrock Creek, howling through the subterranean waterways of Warm Springs Creek Canyon, or sliding down the Upper Popo Agie, each spring we upped the ante with steeper white water and more possibilities.

At the time, we didn’t think anything would ever trump the Freefall, which we had all trusted for our Doersten Photos — top and facing page: Evan Stafford; left: Greg Von

Aaron Pruzan on the Middle Fork of the Popo Agie River in the Wind River Mtns.

28 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2008 Jackson, Wyoming

Summer Rentals Rafts, canoes, sea kayaks, duckies, catarafts and drift boats. Guided fishing trips available. Evan Ross tackles Wind River Range white water (above and facing page). local explorations as well as our forays into the Box of the lenge. While there were many spectacular rapids, much Outdoor Retail Summer clothing, rafting, camping, and Clarks Fork Yellowstone and an early heli-kayaking tour of of the river was too steep to paddle. We had found our fishing gear. New and used rafts, kayaks, New Zealand. Technology was moving forward, though, limit. After 12 hours of running questionable rapids and canoes and drift boats. Hunting and fishing and we were going down with it. In the spring of 1998 the hiking arduous portages, we were still miles from our des- licenses available. 8’4” Wave Sport “Y” hit the scene. With blunt ends and a tination, forcing an unplanned bivouac. Next morning, Car Rentals Year-round flat hull that turned on a dime, this boat ushered in the another five hours of hectic river running finally brought Suburbans, Tahoes, small SUV and “hike in” era, which would us back to civilization. Economy cars. take us higher and steeper Although beaten 307.733.3040 than ever before. Pinballing down Blackrock Creek, down, this humbling ex- To go higher and access perience didn’t dull my 1075 S. Hwy 89, Jackson, WY the steeper creeks in the howling through the subterranean enthusiasm for exploring. www.leisuresportsadventure.com Wind River Mountains waterways of Warm Springs Creek One canyon in particular meant we were on foot— had always aroused inter- few roads travel into the in- Canyon, sliding down the Upper est for kayakers driving terior of the range. Popo Agie, we kept upping the Highway 287 south of Fortunately, these shorter Dubois, where Bull Lake boats were not only easier ante with steeper white water and Creek cuts a dramatic to paddle, they were also gorge as it plunges down less awkward to carry. Dave more possibilities. from the Continental Di- Collins, a pro kayaker who vide. It was time. Brady summers in Cora, and I had to take a closer Wyoming, and 16-year-old protégé Brady Johnston joined look. Recon from the bottom confirmed our suspicions: me for our first major hike-in adventure, eight miles up this was world-class white water, but getting to the top the New Fork River. With amazing scenery, trailside ac- was going to be tough. cess, and the steepest and scariest white water we had ever Vermont slalom ace Silas Treadway and the latest local experienced, the New Fork was worth every step. wonder-boy, Evan Ross, joined us for this mission. While After poring over maps and measuring gradient, we we had a strong team, we faced 20 miles of trail—with two knew the North Fork Popo Agie River was our next chal- passes near 11,000 feet—not to mention the thundering

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www.focusproductions. com 2008 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 29 Western Waterways Grand Teton National Park be rented at Bridge Bay Marina. Online: www.nps.gov/yell. Boating is restricted to non-motorized craft, except on Info: (307) 344-7381. Jackson and Jenny lakes, where powerboats are allowed. West of Yellowstone Launches along the Snake River access a variety of waters, West of the park, the Madison River provides white water some dangerous. Life preservers and boat permits are re- from Ennis Reservoir through Bear Trap Canyon and idyllic quired. Info: (307) 739-3399. Canoes, pontoon boats, and small floating to its confluence with the Missouri River. Info: (406) powerboats can be rented at Signal Mountain or Colter Bay 683-8000. For even more info go to www.blm.gov and then the marinas on Jackson Lake. Boaters will have to register their Dillon field office section. craft at the Moose Visitors’ Center, where more information is Everything from powerboats to paddle craft can put in on KAYAKING available in the country’s newest and coolest visitors’ center. four lakes near West Yellowstone. Outboards can be rented at IS FOR EVERYONE Save time by going to: www.nps.gov/grte Hebgen Lake, and paddle boats and motorized “personal wa- Bridger Teton National Forest tercraft” are available at Henry’s Lake. Call West Yellowstone’s Kayaking in and around Jackson Hole isn’t all about gnarly white water. In fact, on the Class III and IV white water on the Snake River begins chamber of commerce at (406) 646-7701 or go online: Snake, only the last 10 miles above Palisades at West Table and runs eight miles through the Snake River www.westyellowstonechamber.com has water that is really white. Above that there’s Canyon. Self-registration, while not required, is available at Green River & Pinedale Area over 60 miles of Snake River that flows through West Table. On the Web: www.snakeriverfund.org Info: The Green River between Pinedale and Big Piney is pri- the valley at a moderate pace, with many (307) 739-5444. marily utilized for fishing. For information, go to stretches perfect for beginning and novice pad- Other rivers in the area offer everything from serene www.blm.gov/wy and pull up a cool map of every BLM field dlers. Beyond the Snake, Grand Teton and Yel- scenery to challenging rapids. On the Web: office and district in the state. Just point and click. The short lowstone national parks offer the best kayak www.fs.fed.us/r4/btnf. Everything you wanted to know about story: Fremont and Half Moon lakes, near Pinedale, allow pad- touring in the Rockies. There are many excel- recreating on regional and national federal land. Or call (307) dle craft and power and sailboats; and Green River Lakes, lent day tours on Slide, Jenny, Jackson, String, 739-5400 for information on running the Buffalo Fork, Gros north of Cora, allow paddle craft only. Leigh, Lewis, and Yellowstone lakes. Paddling Ventre, Hoback, or Greys rivers. Cody & the North Fork to the southern arms of Yellowstone Lake or ex- Other lakes in the area: Slide Lake, east of Jackson (wind- In Cody, river runners can catch Class III rapids on the ploring Shoshone Lake offers an incredible surfing, sailboats, paddle craft); Palisades Reservoir, at Alpine North Fork of the Shoshone River from Yellowstone Park to multi-day adventure, as kayakers and canoeists Junction (power and sailboats). the reservoir, or combine placid water with Class IV rapids can reach secluded campsites accessible only Yellowstone National Park on the main Shoshone from the reservoir to just past town. by hand-propelled craft. Paddling is a unique In Yellowstone National Park, motorboats, canoes, row- River info: www.blm.gov/wy is the place to start. For hiking way to enjoy solitude even during the busiest of boats, kayaks, sailboats, and windsurfers are allowed on Yel- and camping info go to www.fs.fed.us/r2/shoshone or call times of summer. Check out Rendezvous River lowstone and Lewis lakes, but only paddle boats on (307) 527-6921. Sports or Snake River Kayak & Canoe for more Shoshone Lake. All other rivers and lakes are closed to Water skiing, fishing, and windsurfing are enjoyed on the information or to book a tour. — Aaron Pruzan boaters. Life preservers and permits are required. Boats can Buffalo Bill Reservoir, west of Cody. Info: (307) 587-9227. Photos — top left: Jonathan Selkowitz; left: Wade McKoy; right: Greg Von Doersten McKoy; right: Greg Von Photos — top left: Jonathan Selkowitz; Wade

30 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2008 continued from pg 29 white water beyond. Prepared for a five-day journey, we secured our Wind River Reservation permits and hired horse packers. But when we arrived at their camp, the horse packers refused to carry our kayaks, insisting that the trail was too rugged for the horses to negotiate with boats banging on their backs. Although discouraged, we weren’t turning back now. Loading our gear on the horses and strapping our boats on our backs, we began the hardest hike we had ever known. Nine blistering hours later we made it to our put-in at Deadman Lake. Morning brought us white-water Nirvana as we descended beautiful waterfalls, crystalline pools, and granite-studded rapids too numerous to name. We found ourselves in several tight spots, probing walled-in canyons with do-or-die consequences. But with skill, a little luck, and our “Ys,” we made it through. On the afternoon of the fourth day, we emerged safely at the river’s mouth, having completed what is now considered among the best steep-creek runs in the world. Where will paddling the steeps go next? With young guns FINE JEWELRY & WATCHES like Evan, Brady, and their peers continuing to test the limits and constant improvements in skills and equipment, the elusive cutting edge will continually move forward. And with over 600 inches of famous Jackson Hole snow melting this year, I’m sure more unexplored and unbelievable white water will be found. Aaron Pruzan, owner of Rendezvous River Sports, has introduced thousands of people to kayaking’s joys. At the forefront of river stewardship in the Jackson Hole area, he since 1970 continues to compete, explore new rivers, coach local teens. 307.733.5599 | 80 Center St. Facing page: Kayaking on Jackson Lake at the foot www.hinesgold.com of the Tetons Below: The author’s portage into the New Fork River in the Winds

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2008 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY www.focusproductions. com 31 32 drainage timetables differ. runoff Higher-altitude lakes often are not free ice until of explore locations of andfish on avariety day trips. River and stream levels because vary is possible to baseyourself inthe Jackson, Cody, West Yellowstone or similar areas and atriving astill-frozen lake or arunoff-swollen stream. obtain current lake and river access information and avoid the disappointment ar- of conditions.off Before scheduling abackcountry trip, especially during May and June, rive. snowpack often Extra means longer-lasting runoffs andlater-than-usual lake ice- day fishing closures during the summer heat 2007. of pecially welcome after Montana/Yellowstone National Park experienced emergency mid- season adequate with stream flows to maintain ahealthy trout population. Thisises- region. Full reservoirs that meetagriculturalirrigation demands also meanafishing enough snowpack to the amajority fill reservoir of capacity inthe Greater Yellowstone ready casting assoon February to asthe and milderof March begin periods arrive. the majorof western rivers isalways enthusiastically greeted by trout addicts, who are already good-to-excellent. has been A year-round fishing season designation for many scended, fishing on some rivers inthe Jackson, Cody, Eastern Idaho, andDubois areas and how quickly thisbig snow pile melts. ditional moisture that arrives inMay andJune. Daily temperatures also affect when will beneficial to the natural resources. abundant-to-record snowpack the inalmost Cowboy of portion every State hasbeen Greater Yellowstone’s Waters – The best anglinginthe world Thebest Greater Yellowstone’s Waters – Mountain Fishing Many superb trout rivers aneasy liewithin day’s drive from northwest Wyoming. It This year favorable, pre-runoff be angling will but may occur before most visitors ar- One thing about 2008iscertain, and it isthat federal water managers have will Even asskiers andsnowmobilers got intheir last before runs “mud season” de- Naturally, alot spring of depends and on summer ad- activity the of timing runoff As Wyoming fishermen plan for summer 2008, there isuniversal agreement that the MOUNTAIN COUNTRY hat adifference ayear makes! 2008 By Paul Bruun trips accordingly. plan isapractical forperiods anglers to consider. Schedule hikes, backpacking and pack thawing might ice-free be inmid-to late May. Targeting lakes during early river runoff sometime inmid-June whilelower-elevation and larger reservoirs where aidsin wind rainbows they capture, whileothers may to elect keep afew. The concept isnot without controversy. Some anglers and outfitters prefer to release the harvest rainbows of to protect cutthroat spawning, especially on the upper South Fork. sion and potential hybridization. Idaho regulations encourage unlimited and year-round This isaneffort to protect native cutthroat strains from agrowing rainbow trout intru- cutthroat trout inthe South Fork the Snake of aswell asaspecial limit on brown trout. ted between November 1and March 31. through October31for cutthroat trout. Catch-and-release cutthroat fishing ispermit- clude year-round fishing. The trout harvest season in Wyoming runs from April 1 Teton. Grand in necessary is Teton boat are permits available at the Moose Visitor Center. A Wyoming fishing license lowstone entrances andranger stations se mit, not only for sailand powerboats but also for float and tubes pontoon boats. Yel- stations. Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks require the purchase aboat per- of weekend. Yellowstone Park requires purchase afishing of permit, available from visitor National Park may slightly. vary A majority the waters of are fishable by Memorial Day Idaho biologists have implemented anannual catch-and-release regulation on all Trout seasons on Wyoming’s Snake and South Fork the Snake of inIdaho now in- The dates fishing of seasons on various waters instates surrounding Yellowstone Trout-harvest Concepts National Park Access ll fishingll and permits boat permits. Grand

Photos — top left: Jeff Diener; right 2: Wade McKoy Left: Flat Creek on the Natinal Elk Refuge is home to trout in the bragging-rights range. Above: A native cutthroat trout battles an angler’s skills in a secret spot’s pristine waters. Even as skiers and snowmobilers got in their last runs before “mud season” descended, fishing on some rivers in the Jackson, Cody, Eastern Idaho, and Dubois areas already has been good-to-excellent.

Biting insects are especially present in irrigated ranch lakes. Lewis and Shoshone lakes inside the South Entrance lands and locales that harbor standing snow melt during of Yellowstone are excellent lake and brown trout fisheries the early season. Full-coverage clothing and repellent are that anglers can access usually from the end of May (de- helpful. Keep a current aerosol pepper-spray dispenser pending on weather/ice off) through the end of October. handy whenever fishing/hiking/camping in bear country Once the Snake clears, the water is high and swift (which is just about everywhere). Remember that bears throughout the summer until mid-September. A steep like to fish, too. gradient makes wading challenging, so the Snake is best Regional Fishing Destinations fished by floating. The native cutthroat is exceptionally Jackson Hole enthusiastic about dry flies and also chases streamers, In addition to its own excellent fisheries, great angling nymphs, and spinning lures. Grasshopper fishing in Au- destinations surround Jackson. Many visitors base in gust and September is a cherished part of the Snake’s Jackson and make day-fishing trips outside the valley. Por- seasonal anthology. tions of rivers like the Hoback, Salt, and Greys are open Other favorite Jackson rivers more suited to wading year round. The Snake is world headquarters to its own are the Hoback, Gros Ventre, and Buffalo, as well as Flat, subspecies—the fine-spotted cutthroat trout—and is Cottonwood, and Pacific creeks. The Hoback provides a Remember: If you can see ‘em, they can see you. also Wyoming’s largest Blue Ribbon River and a popular giant stonefly hatch in early July. Be Prepared major attraction fished by most anglers. After it clears in July, the Buffalo fishes well into late Visitors focused on fishing should also be aware of Easily accessible lakes like Jackson, Jenny, Leigh, September. storms, insects, and bears. High-elevation weather condi- and Grassy are usually ice-free by mid- to late May Flat Creek in the National Elk Refuge is a challenging tions change rapidly. A sharp drop in temperature ac- and fish well from shore until the warmer days of July fly-fishing-only stream that opens on August 1. An exten- companies fast-moving mountain storms that dispense arrive. Deep-water trolling becomes popular until sive section of this spring creek-like stream meanders chilling winds and possible combinations of rain, hail, or mid- to late September, when fish will again be found through Jackson. snow. For insurance pack an extra fleece jacket or insu- in shallower water. Cody lated vest and sturdy rainwear. Graphite rods attract light- Lake trout—or mackinaw—that can reach 50 This East Yellowstone Entrance community named for ning: Cease casting during thunderstorms! pounds, as well as cutthroat trout, thrive in these deep the famous Wild West personality offers a variety of lake,

www.focusproductions. com 2008 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 33 Photos — top 2: Bob Woodall; middle: Wade McKoy middle: Wade Photos — top 2: Bob Woodall;

Be Prepared. Visitors focused on fishing should also be aware of storms, insects, and bears. High-elevation weather conditions change rapidly.

The Lower Fork, Yellowstone, Firehole, Gallatin, and more. The ea- Shoshone River right gerly anticipated and widely acclaimed salmon fly hatch through Cody is a prized on the Lower Madison begins in late June and peaks winter, spring and late- around the Fourth of July. summer fly fishery. The Firehole, America’s most unusual trout river, is Dubois fed by Yellowstone’s great geysers, fumaroles, and thermal Nestled along the springs. A similar resident rainbow and brown trout pop- Photos, this page: Wyoming’s feisty native cutthroat trout keeps anglers Wind River in what is ulation also flourishes in the Madison in the park, where coming back for more. known as Fremont excellent mayfly and caddis hatches thrive until hopper reservoir, and stream fishing. Cody anglers enjoy numer- County’s “banana belt,” the community of Dubois offers fishing takes over in August. By mid-September, spawning ous insect hatches emerging from the North Fork of the a variety of small- and large-stream and lake fishing be- fish from downstream in Hebgen Lake begin to migrate Shoshone. This popular river creates the productive Buf- ginning right downtown. The Wind River is a year-round into the park and provide excitement until park fishing falo Bill Reservoir and offers rainbows, cutthroats, and trout fishery known for its browns that attain braggin’ closes in early November. browns. Lake trout are also abundant in Buffalo Bill. Be lengths. Small-stream enthusiasts will love the scrappy Hebgen Lake and its various arms offer some of the sure to note Wyoming G&F regs. for April 1-July 1 spawn- cutthroats in the Wiggins Fork not too far up the Horse area’s finest dry-fly fishing beginning in mid-July. During ing closure on portions of river and reservoir. Creek Road from Dubois and then a short ride on County the morning calm, trout locally termed “gulpers” cruise For both rugged beauty and excellent fishing, Wyoming’s Road 506. Also off the Horse Creek Road is Bog Lake, between surface blankets of tiny “Trico” mayflies, sipping only federally proclaimed Wild & Scenic River, the Clark’s where both rainbow trout and arctic grayling reside. In constantly. A little later, the Tricos are joined by larger Cal- Fork of the Yellowstone, is a short drive from Cody. the historic Union Pass area, anglers can pursue fine-spot- libaetis mayflies (speckled spinners) as the trout party Located within easy hiking access to the unusual ted Snake River cutthroat in Lake of the Woods and also hits high gear. Beartooth Highway (U.S. 212) are numerous wilderness- experience Little Warm Springs Creek. Pelham Lake is The Yellowstone River inside the park (with a few trib- fishing lakes. Get local fly shop recommendations to a usually ice free by mid-June and is west of Dubois off utary exceptions) traditionally opens on July 15 to a flour- variety of high lakes, where grayling, rainbow, cutthroat, Warm Springs Road and is known for trophy-size Yellow- ish of caddis insect action. This is a truly superb fishery and brook trout are available to fly and spin fishermen stone cutthroat. Contact the local tackle store for exact di- for large Yellowstone-strain cutthroat that are willing ris- after late June. These lakes are excellent float-tube wa- rections to these interesting area fisheries. ers for a variety of fly imitations. The river provides an ters. East and West Newton lakes, a few minutes’ drive West Yellowstone exceptional range of catch-and-release fishing opportu- outside Cody, are accessible trout opportunities, as are Surrounding the West Entrance to Yellowstone Na- nities. Numerous insect types are present and enjoyable Hogan and Luce reservoirs, where a variety of fishing tional Park, this area is the jumping-off point to many leg- to watch as the daily trout menu constantly changes. techniques may be employed. endary Western rivers, including the Madison, Henry’s Yellowstone Lake offers a fine opportunity to pursue 34 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2008 its native cutthroat not only from boats and float tubes grayling is an unusual trout-like fish that wears an ex- The South Fork, which begins in Wyoming and then but from the bank as well. Spin and fly fishermen enjoy tremely large dorsal fin highlighted with delicate red/pur- flows into Idaho above Palisades Reservoir, is the coun- success from many beaches and shores along adjacent ple spotting. Grayling willingly sip small flies and tiny try’s largest native-cutthroat fishery. Big browns swim park roads and parking areas. spinning lures. Also vehicle-accessible are Soda and Wil- there too. Despite being such a sizable river, anglers fre- Pinedale low lakes, which provide excellent float-tube and small- quently need delicate fishing skills to fool its abundant This Old West ranching community lies 75 miles boat angling opportunities. fish. Both rivers have local outfitters and fly shops or may south of Jackson Hole. Situated adjacent to the Wind River Southeastern Idaho be accessed by Jackson Hole outfitters. Range and squarely along the historic Oregon Trail, this Giant stoneflies and other exceptional western aquatic Paul Bruun has edited several newspapers during his portion of Sublette County offers a variety of west-slope insect hatches historically highlight fishing experiences career, writes the weekly “Outdoors” column in the Jack- hiking and horse-packing trail entrances to the splendid on the Henry’s and South Fork of the Snake River. Fed by son Hole News & Guide, and contributes to outdoor mag- Wind River Range and its endless trout-filled lake collec- Big Spring and Henry’s Lake Outlet, the Henry’s Fork near azines. He operates his own fly-fishing float-trip service, tion. The Green and the New Fork rivers begin here and Last Chance, Idaho, is renowned for its salmon fly hatch, founded the South Fork Skiff drift boat company, and flow south, where they ultimately unite near “Wyoming’s which begins around Memorial Day. This river’s prolific served 12 years on the Jackson Town Council during his Icebox,” Big Piney, currently in the throes of an energy- insect hatches attract trout lovers from all over the world 35 years in Jackson. exploration boom. who enjoy challenging its selective rainbows. High prairie subtly camouflages exceptional fishing for browns and rainbows in both the Green and smaller New Fork. Flowing from the Green River Lakes, the upper Green features extensive public access areas and campgrounds. Upstream from the Warren Bridge on U.S. 189/191, under hiking which the Green flows, are a dozen BLM access areas that offer fine wade fishing. Downstream, mostly private land surrounds the river but a few Game and Fish public access points dot the river. Float fishing is popular on both rivers beginning in early July when they clear. Check local shops for current access information. fishing The Wyoming Game & Fish Dept. continues reintro- duction of once-native cutthroat subspecies to many Pinedale, Daniel, and Big Piney tributary streams as well as the Green itself. A special angling treat is found in Meadow Lake below Pinedale in the Wind River foothills near Boulder. Arctic hunting camping snow sports

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[email protected] 50 East Broadway Visit our website for updated In Teton Village On the Town Square reports and conditions Next to the Alpenhof 307-733-3270 www.jackdennis.com 307-733-6838

www.focusproductions. com 2008 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 35 Mountain Climbing A lifetime apprenticeship “on the sharp end” by Jeff Burke Photos: Jimmy Chin Conrad Anker scales the Grand Teton (left) and (above) sorts through the rack: “the sling of climbing nuts, cams, and runners.”

ive me the rack,” I said, putting my hand out to Try Indoor lead my first pitch of Teton granite. My friend un-shoul- DISCOVER CLIMBING WITH dered the sling of climbing nuts, cams, and runners, and EXUM MOUNTAIN GUIDES. passed it to me with a knowing grin. Until that moment Climbing! I had never been “on the sharp end,” meaning I had not FROM FIRST-TIME CLIMBER TO EXPERT you will have a yet led a pitch of technical rock climbing. During my first great time climbing with our guides. • Private and few years in the sport I had only followed friends up group classes everyday • Climb the Grand Teton! • Fun routes, never taking the lead, all the while learning how climbing activities for families • Kids-only climbing Great Family Fun to place protection for the day when I’d get to go first. programs (307) 733-2297 WWW.EXUMGUIDES.COM Enjoy a climbing adventure With nervous eyes and sugar-buzzed energy I made my with your entire family. way up that inaugural 5.6—exposed ledges, smooth Climbs for all levels and all granite, placing more protection than I would today— fueled by an emotional cocktail consisting of one part ages offer fun for everyone. commitment and two parts fear, with a splash of revenge Try indoor climbing today! directed at an old girlfriend. Everyone gets into climbing for different reasons. I got into it because climbing gave me the tools to venture into Kids Climb and Dine better places to ski. The more I learned about moun- While you enjoy a night on taineering, the farther and higher I could go with my skis. Soon I became anxious to just get into the mountains, the town, your kids are with or without skis. Like any skill set, the more proficient treated to 3 hours of I became at it, the more rewarding it was. The day I led supervised climbing and that first 5.6, my eyes opened to the lifetime possibilities dinner. A night everyone of exploring steep-walled mountains. Jackson Hole has its share of mountaineering history. will remember! The Teton Range has long been a bastion of American Call for details. alpinism, complete with a controversy of who actually Rated one of the BEST ADVENTURE TRAVEL COMPANIES ON EARTH climbed the Grand Teton first, the range’s crown jewel. De- by National Geographic Adventure Magazine. bate surrounds Nathaniel Langford and James Stevenson’s www.enclosureclimbing.com GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK • SOUTH JENNY LAKE 1872 alleged success of the climb. With no empirical evi- BOX 56 • MOOSE, WY 83012 • [email protected] 307-734-9590 dence proving either man stood on the summit—only Exum is an authorized concession of Grand Teton National Park. Jackson Hole, Wyoming their word—credit goes to William O. Owen, who put to-

www.focusproductions. com 2008 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 37 Photos— top: Greg Von Doersten; middle: Jimmy Chin; right: courtesy of Enclosure Climbing Photos— top: Greg Von Brady Johnston traverses from Gunsight Notch to the Grand Stand on the North Ridge of the Grand Teton with Mount Owen in the background. gether a climbing party and summited the peak in 1898, and Paul Petzoldt. Both men pioneered routes up the the program,” Nat says. “We can lead people safely and ef- taking photographs and documenting their ascent. Since Grand Teton, notably the Exum and Petzoldt ridges, re- ficiently in the mountains. We know the local biology and then countless men and women have come to the valley spectively, which are both considered classic, moderately mountain history. It all helps to enhance the quality of the and made their mark exploring the Tetons. difficult routes, and are climbed frequently. In the ‘30s, the client’s overall experience.” Like any outdoor discipline, climbing is a craft with two young men began taking people into the mountains Learning how to climb is becoming easier by the day. what many consider a lifetime apprenticeship. Teton for a fee. And for the last 75 years, two climbing schools— With the proliferation of indoor rock gymnasiums, be- Jackson Hole Mountain Guides ginners and pros have a place to go year-round. “Gyms and Exum Mountain Guides— have led thousands of people into the alpine Teton terrain. Teton climbing, specifically, If you’re new to climbing or don’t have the time to learn on is about longer days in the your own, going with a guide is mountains, route-finding, a valuable resource. They have intimate knowledge of the area, scrambling, technical pitches, technical savvy, and venerable mountain experience to take exposure, rappelling, slogging— you safely into the mountains. mountaineering in its “Guides make your trip safer and more seamless,” says Phil absolute sense. Powers, one of the owners of Jackson Hole Mountain Guides. “We all have limited time. A allow you to train regardless of weather,” says Enclosure Conrad Anker contemplates his next move on the Grand Teton. guide, with his or her local employee Shawn Overstreet, “where you can push your climbing, specifically, is about longer days in the knowledge and advanced skill, can make sure that time is limits with minimal consequences. And it’s really safe mountains, route-finding, scrambling, technical as pleasurable and productive as possible,” Phil continues. for beginner climbers.” The Enclosure indoor gym has pitches, exposure, rappelling, slogging—moun- “We believe in the learning and the experience as much as over 12,000 sq. feet of textured wall climbing with 200 taineering in its absolute sense. Many peaks, including the goal of a summit or a climb. Our guides try to share routes, 3,500 sq. feet of bouldering (unroped climbing), the Grand Teton, present several challenges, mentally their comprehensive understanding of the mountain a yoga studio and a fitness area. “There’s access to routes and physically, for climbers who choose to scale their world, from natural history and weather through technique of all types and difficulties in a relatively small space,” faces, buttresses, and ridgelines. and movement skills with each of our guests.” adds Overstreet. Two of the range’s central figures were Glenn Exum Senior Exum guide Nat Patridge agrees. “Guides know There is more to climbing in Jackson Hole than the 38 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2008 On the Rise — Indoor Climbing Has Its Own Game

tic holds for grabbing, have now blossomed into three-dimensional, multi-storied pieces of interactive 170 North Cache Jackson 733-3595 art. “Rock gyms are becoming more state-of-the-art,” says Over- street. “There’s more appeal to the general public and families, not just the hardcore.” There are some limitations, Gear however. “It’s hard to mimic some Petzl techniques of outdoor climbing,” DMM says Overstreet. “Slab climbing, for Black instance.” Still, the indoor attrac- Diamond Color-coded holds indicate climbing routes of varying difficulty. tion has led to nationwide indoor Indoor climbing might sound like an oxymoron. climbing and bouldering competitions, with com- Metolius It’s not. And with a growing population of indoor en- petitors speeding up routes, pushing their physical thusiasts, it’s becoming a sport unto itself. limits, all the while staying fit. Wyoming has its own Mimicking the topography of rock formations, “307 Series” bouldering contests (the name comes Clothing indoor climbing routes allow novices and experts from the statewide area code 307), which move across Mountain alike to simulate the movements and climbing expe- the state, town to town, until the finals at Jackson’s Hardwear rience in a relatively safe and controlled environ- Enclosure Climbing. Löle ment. “There’s access to routes of all types,” says Unlike traditional athletic clubs, rock gyms provide Prana Enclosure employee Shawn Overstreet, “without another dimension to merely exercising on machines being dependent on weather.” and lifting weights. “The basic movements of climbing Arc'teryc Rock gyms started as a means for hardcore are appealing to people,” says Overstreet. “It’s fun for Patagonia climbers to remain strong when they couldn’t get those who don’t have the ability to get outdoor climb- Carve Design outside. Over the last decade, what were once simple, ing often. And there’s also a supportive social scene sur- textured wood panels studded with removable plas- rounding it, too.” — Jeff Burke The North Face Climber: Evan Simms Photo: McKoy

Grand and surrounding peaks. Rodeo Wall and The Shield are two crags in the valley that offer moderate, single-pitch CELEBRATING OUR 40TH ANNIVERSARY sport climbing. Drive south of town and spend an after- TRANSCENDING TIME... noon clipping bolts and top-roping a variety of 5.8-to- REACHING NEW HEIGHTS... 5.11-rated climbs. If you’ve got some climbing chops, drive 20 minutes north to Blacktail Butte, where steep, sharp limestone will get your attention right off the ground. Make no mistake: climbing can be dangerous, and you can get seriously injured or killed. Knowing the rules can be the difference between a fabulous day in the mountains or a fatal one. “If you don’t know shit,” says an older, re- tired guide who shall remain nameless, “get a guide.” On my premier lead, I could see the anchor station at the top of the pitch from below. I was near it and had just placed a nut below the crux of the pitch, a small but exposed bulge just below the anchor. There was no place to put any more protection until I could reach the anchor. Feeling the effects of my two-parts fear cocktail, I weighted my right foot on a dished-out groove and stood, reaching my left hand beyond my line of sight, pawing for a hold, “Oh, m-m-man…” I shuttered, sliding my fingers across the rock. Nothing. My left leg began to do “the sewing machine,” quivering rapidly up and down. I slid the other hand up, my stomach pressing the wall. Just out of sight, my fingers found a huge pocket—it might as well

have been the rung of a ladder. “Thank Gawd!,” I said, Angus M. Thuermer Jr. Photo courtesy of pulling through the bulge to the anchor. Offering guided climbs and rock climbing instruction Toiling in the hills is as silly as any other enthusiasm; it’s but one way we engage the natural world while simul- in the Tetons since 1968. taneously experiencing the wilderness within ourselves. Climb well above your last piece of protection and you’ll 165 North Glenwood Street, Jackson, Wyoming 83001 know what I mean. 800.239.7642 / 307.733.4979 www.jhmg.com Jeff Burke is a freelance writer living in Jackson. Jackson Hole Mountain Guides is an authorized concessioner of Grand Teton National Park and is permitted by the USDA Forest Service to operate on the Bridger-Teton, Shoshone and Custer National Forests.

www.focusproductions. com 2008 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 39 Mountain Skateboarding 40 summer-weather window from June through is October from winter’s thaw, or King Kong-size potholes. The small when they’re littered puddles, with gravel pieces over left year, riding Jackson’s streets challenging, canbe especially spewing various forms precipitation of for the almost half and most stubbornvalley skateboarders, the climate might the be toughest to negotiate. Withand committed to skateboarding. Mother Nature I’m 30, Ithink.” three years. “I’m probably going to beskateboarding till Owen Edward Doyle, 8, who’syear to Ilearned Ollie,” been says precocious riding thrash-master in Jackson for summer because I’m always learning newtricks—last mous for deep-pocket real estate. gasping for additional affordable housing inaregion fa- sport. And they’re to do struggling it inaplace that is ley skateboarders who are helping make aname for the fearless, of band dedicated, growing a is val- ageless and drained swimming pools here. What you find, will though, stack sunny of days palmtree-lined with sidewalks and machismo and powder skiing. Nope, not going to find a But then again, thisplace was founded on cowboy behind the curve, compared to the other world. of parts A lookinsideJackson’s growing skateboard community Although there exist many hurdles to overcome for At only eight-years-old, Doyle already ishooked on “Skateboarding isthe thing Ilike to do most inthe hen it comes to skateboarding, Jackson iscertainly MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2008 who’s skating been since the ‘70s, those nine of years in Road,” says and Igneous local owner Skis Mike Parris, 37, Targhee working hasbeen uson with skating Hill Ski are limits, off too. Pass and Hill Ski Road on the west side the Teton of Range Square, and the popular longboarding pitches Teton of Town Jackson the around prohibited is skateboarding ple, unwelcoming road-rash to some skaters’ ears. For exam- tions prohibiting some riding area roads. That’s just more than weather, though, might town be and county restric- ing. It’s more like rolling across marbles. A bigger hurdle thedawn late-night till twilight. the Jackson skater’s prime to time hit the pavement, from There are some hopeful signs, though. “[Grand] Obviously, skating Jackson’s streets isn’t smooth sail- hurdles to overcome valley for most stubborn to negotiate. stubborn most skateboarders, theclimate might be the toughest and might bethetoughest Although there exist many By Keith I.Cozzens son to swell, began sodidthe valley’s skate parks and skating after college.” I’ve seenafew generations come through that are still don’tfriends want to get hurt, but it the rip up kids and Jon Burke, 31, a skater for seven years. “Most my of everyday—you canalmost count on it,” says Jacksonite common place to ride. grassroots, but it gave the skateboarding population a it was miracle. afull-blown Granted, it was and small community bike path. For most skaters, mainly the kids, to the cow-pasture fields near ball school the high and and some vert ramps and conveniently located adjacent was in2002. The park was simple, aplayful with bowl ation the town of skate park. around skating. which are more and geared rigid toward flatter, all- steep grades, anddiffer from the standard skateboards, boards are key for turnsat speeds high carving down laminates that make boards the more flexible. Flexible boards out wood cores of and two layers fiberglass of and he saidto me, ‘Better here thanon the pass.’” Jackson. “I remember aTeton with talking County officer But it hasn’t been enough. As the population of Jack- of population enough. hasn’t it the But As been “It’s agreat addition. school The are high kids there The official opening the first of skate park inJackson Undoubtedly, though, the most hopeful signisthe cre- Since 1999, Igneous long- constructing hasbeen Skis

Photos— left: Andrew McGarry; right: Jonathan Selkowitz overall enthusiasm for the sport. First, Peter Mar- but things aren’t stagnant. With the close of the siglio opened the Colosseum indoor skate park in Colosseum came the conundrum of what to do with 2004, but it didn’t last long. The interest was there, all the skate structures. Well, next time you’re walk- the funds weren’t. After three solid years of offering ing through the east side of town, keep your eyes and skaters of all ages a buffed-out facility to hone their ears open for the smack and grind of decks hitting skills, the building’s owner(s) sold and cashed in on a half-pipe inside an undisclosed skater-friendly the property. home. That’s one bright spot. “We pretty much got kicked out. The rent was The skate park in Victor, Idaho, is another bright high and Pete was barely pulling through,” says spot and is gaining more popularity, with lots of Burke, who frequented the Colosseum. “They just local Jackson skaters displaying their skills at the made it hard on us. They had no clue what it was Teton Valley hangout. doing for the skateboarders at that point—even the “Just seeing how much skateboarding is used as parents were starting to pick up on it.” a means of transportation in town has grown,” says With the unfortunate fall of the Colosseum, how- Parris. “Any summer day you can see a girl in a sun- ever, came the rise of Sk8 Inc. Spearheaded by Board- dress with her dog cruising down Snow King Ave.” Room owner Marc Loebe, the organization (loosely Another promising option is local skater Casey formed in the late ‘90s) had a single mission: raise Cimbura’s creation, the PortaCope. Bummed by the enough funds to expand the existing outdoor skate lack of skate-able features present in the valley, Cim- park. Working with Cheryl Bebee and Brody Dowell, bura has designed a way to skate anything you want Sk8 Inc. hosted fundraisers, ushered live music into without leaving a mark. Looking to relieve the bore- town, and held demos featuring professional skate- dom a skater in Jackson can feel, Cimbura’s ingen- boarders to promote awareness. Thanks to Old Bill’s ious technology is basically a piece of hard plastic and other donations, the group initially raised (coping) cut at a 90-degree angle. The plastic pieces $110,000, an amount matched by Teton County/Jack- come in different sizes and connect using a sturdy son Parks and Rec., which currently maintains the camming system. They adhere to any structure, fea- skate park. ture, or rail, using sticky, non-marking tape and “Ultimately, the skate park gave people a place to screws, and the set-up/breakdown time is minimal. go and gave us some legitimacy in the valley and Its best feature, besides being portable? It doesn’t community,” says Loebe, who’s owned his home- Longboarding (left) and skate park terrain (above) are harm the surface or your board. Brilliant! grown skate and snowboard shop The BoardRoom helping nurture Jackson Hole’s skating devotees. “I’ve been using it on any structures I can find since 1995, and which harbors a half-pipe in its park- around town,” says Cimbura, 26, who’s been skating ing lot. “It’s never going to be a school sport, but that’s “Ultimately, the skate park for 11 years. “I’ve been using the PortaCope to show that what draws a lot of kids to it: the freedom.” it’s not ruining the structure and that it opens the door to In the second phase of their fundraising pursuit, Sk8 gave people a place to go and more skating opportunities.” Inc. received an anonymous donation for $150,000, gave us some legitimacy in the But the ultimate future of skateboarding in the valley adding some much-needed grease to the wheels. This is the kids. time, though, no match from Parks and Rec. Moving on valley and community.” “I ask for skate gear every birthday and Christmas,” with their master plan, Sk8 Inc. expanded the skate park says young Doyle. “Once the snow melts from the streets, in the fall of 2006 by building rails, a funbox, more vert ished expanding the park, we had $10,000 left over. So far, I like to skateboard to school at Wilson Elementary.” walls, several hips, flatbanks, and spines. The renovated that’s gotten us one drinking fountain.” During his early teens, valley resident and freelance park is now roughly 3,400-square-feet. So that leaves valley skaters with basically two op- writer Keith I. Cozzens used to skateboard with a boom “It was a bit of a struggle to get the funds we needed, tions: one skate park or the street. What’s the future of box and cutoff sleeves. Now, he truly misses those days. but we made it happen,” says Loebe. “When we were fin- skateboarding in Jackson? Not an easy question to answer,

1255d gregory lane jackson, wyoming 307/734.8788 www.igneousskis.com

www.focusproductions. com 2008 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 41 Jackson &Cody

Snaky Bulls & Snorting Broncs

Story by Joy Ufford Photos by Bob Woodall

Dust puffs underfoot as cowgirls and cowboys, little to large, ex- pectant crowds, and rodeo clowns shuffle their boots and silently clutch hats to chests. The setting sun sends shafts of warm light through the evening air and bathes everyone—rider, roper, racer— in a golden glow and sharpens the silhouettes of waiting horses and swaggering bulls. It is the most magical moment of the night, when a micro- phone crackles to life and the inspiring lyrics of our national an- them lift hearts around the arena as many sing along with the words that stir them so deeply every time—“the land of the free and the home of the brave…” Rodeo is so thoroughly American now (despite roots in vaquero and ranching traditions of old California and Mexico) that it’s mandatory to see the star-spangled banner grasped in a rodeo queen’s hand as she tears around the arena on her horse at full gallop, both showing off for appreciative crowds. That’s what rodeo is all about, in a way—showing off. From snaky bulls to snorting broncs, born to buck and born to run; from a glittering rhinestone-studded belt here to some turquoise fringed leather there. It’s about showing off in a good way, because there’s nothing wrong with living to kick higher, run faster, ride A high-flying cowboy spurs his bronc in his quest for that eight-second ride to rodeo fame. longer, rope quicker. For bull and bronc riders it’s about getting better scores, keeping a tighter handle on their ride. For the bulls and broncs, it’s about putting on a show trying to launch cowboys into outer space. When the sparkling gals gallop around on their stretched-out horses, burning turns around three barrels set in sand, it’s about speed and style. For the more taciturn ropers, it’s the quick ele- gance of a rope sailing through the air to catch a steer or calf in a heartbeat or two. Man, woman, or animal, it’s a great way to be alive. There’s nothing like it. Rodeo hasn’t changed much over the years except to get better. More money, better horses, meaner bulls, faster times… Chris LeDoux and Garth Brooks have taught us through their country- western music about “eight-second rides” and “the roar of a Sunday crowd,” and rodeo still has the ability to thrill us. And one thing that never changes about rodeo is people’s heartfelt desires to be good, even great, at something they love. The same can be said of their horses, whether buckin’ broncs or muscled mounts; that good feeling of doing a job well holds as true for the animals as it does for the men and women who ride them and the rodeo clowns who risk life and limb to entertain the crowd. There’s pride at stake, whether you’re moving on two legs or four. It’s an excitement and adrenaline rush that keeps every creature in that arena on its best—which in many cases is its Not even out of the gate, a saddle-bronc rider struggles to hang on to his draw. 42 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2008 worst—behavior. It’s no surprise that people who love to rodeo consider it an addiction. JH Rodeo For 24 years, the Moses family (Russ, Judy, and Gene, plus assorted relatives) has hosted Jackson’s summer twice- weekly rodeo and made the Teton County arena a hot destination with a hometown atmosphere for up-and-coming rough stock riders, barrel racers and ropers, and for the families, friends, and visitors who crowd the bleachers. “It’s an addiction,” said Judy Moses, adding that they don’t get rich at producing rodeos. “Oh, my gosh, no.” Jackson’s Sadie Wheeldon has barrel raced since she was four, and considers the JH Rodeo a second home after all the years she’s raced and more recently, team-roped there and at other rodeos, all while helping her family run the Mill Iron Ranch south of Jackson. “The JH Rodeo is a great rodeo,” she said. “We grew there and learned a lot there. I’ll never quit JH Rodeo. All of us here are very lucky to have had it growing up; it gives you that competitive edge.” Roping is a team effort for a rider and his mount. “It’s a thrill,” she said of barrel racing and team roping. “I love them both. It’s a speed thing, an adrenaline thing. Both are very addictive.” “He’s got long, lean muscles, Her goal is to make a name for herself with a handsome horse she brought back from Colorado last year, a 9-year-old and his breeding tells a lot,” Wheeldon said. “He can run.” again. If the horse kicks a lot, bucking and jumping and you’re spurring in time with him, it’s a good ride.” Russ, Judy, and son Gene travel to Texarkana, Arkansas, to buy young bulls and Miles City, Montana, for potential broncs. They’ll “audition” new stock and decide who stays. Interestingly, there are breeding programs for bucking stock—horses and bulls that have “buck” bred into them. Howdy Pardner “They have to want to do it,” said Judy of the young stock. “It’s something that’s a mind-set for them. They have to prove themselves until we’re satisfied they are going to be crowd-pleasers, consistently.” It’s a win-win situation; their stock gets the finest feed and hay plus five to six days off a week. You're in JH Rodeo has something for everyone: the “calf Rodeo scramble” pits four- to 12-year-olds against each other to Country catch calves tagged with ribbons for prizes; women get to check out Wrangler-clad cowboys and guys check out, well, Wrangler-clad cowgirls. The events are barrel racing, calf roping, bull riding, saddle-bronc riding and bronc rid- RODEO The calm before the storm for bull and rider. Firewater Flick gelding—“a pretty big name” in the world ing, with a round of bull riding saved for last. In Jackson Hole of fast horses—and he might be the one to take her to the JH Rodeo starts Saturday, May 24, at 8 p.m. during Old Dodge Circuit Finals in Pocatello this year. West Days, at the Teton County Fairgrounds. Wednesday Wednesdays & Saturdays “He’s got long, lean muscles and his breeding tells a lot,” rodeos start June 4, and both nights offer family fun through at 8:00pm Wheeldon said. “He can run.” Labor Day weekend. Special rodeos are held during July JH Rodeo Grounds • Snow King Ave. After that her sights will be set on the National Finals Fourth and the Teton County Fair, which also has a Little FREE PARKING Rodeo in Las Vegas, not an unusual dream for someone Buckaroo rodeo. On July 28, JH Rodeo will present a special whose entire family has rodeo’d. “It’s been in the family televised bull-riding challenge with big-name riders. 4 blocks from the Town Square Jackson Hole, Wyoming for so long.” JH Rodeo is the most affordable entertainment around. Saddle bronc rider Bryon Lozier from Daniel, Wyoming, Reserved seating in the covered grandstand is $15; general ad- CALF SCRAMBLE about 70 miles south, got caught up in JH Rodeo’s challenge mission is $12 for adults, $8 for kids, and $40 for two parents All kids ages 4-12 and kids. To reserve tickets, call (307) 733-2187 or 733-2805. at 14, with the same dream. For years he’s ridden at the JH FAMILY DISCOUNTS Rodeo twice a week. Cody Nite Rodeo $40.00 “It’s just an adrenaline rush,” Lozier said of climbing Cody is called the “Rodeo Capital of the World,” and 4th of July Rodeo at 8:00pm on a bronc in the chute. “We went a lot of places, won some that isn’t stretching things, with talented cowboys and girls money… After awhile you kind of figure out if you’re coming from Peru, Australia, Canada and even Japan to www.jhrodeo.com going that way (to the NFR) or not… You have a rough test their skills in Stampede Park and vie for big cash and Ticket Office 733-2805 ride and don’t know if you want to get back on or not. big buckles. And to have an exciting show every night, the For advance tickets and information. Then you get on a good one and want to do it all over rough stock has to buck. continued on page 45 www.focusproductions. com 2008 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 43 Horseback Riders Icons of the West

Wyoming’s Absarokas Range offers some of the most remote and inspiring roadless horseback riding among the lower 48 states. Story and photos by Bob Woodall here is west, and there is The West. Not a direction, and cowboys,” said Garnick. Tbut a place steeped in history and full of icons and sym- Now that you’re hankering to hit the trail, what’s next? bols. And the one icon epitomizing the West is the cow- Well, dress the part. You don’t need to go out and dude boy astride his horse, riding into the sunset. If you’re in yourself up in full cowboy regalia, but a few items will search of that connection with the West, why not saddle make the ride more enjoyable. Cowboy boots are best, but up and go for a ride? any closed-toed shoes are fine. Sandals, however, are not Although loping off into the horizon may not be on recommended. Long pants and a hat are advisable, and your agenda, finding a horse to mount up and ride could- because the weather can change rapidly here in the real n’t be easier. No matter where one travels, trail rides are West, bring a raincoat. Also on the short list are insect re- available. And there are many ways to indulge oneself. The pellant, sunscreen, sunglasses, water bottle, camera, and simplest is a two-hour ride. If that leaves you hankering binoculars. for more, consider half-day or full-day rides. For the ulti- Next, decide how much time you really have for mate Western experience, though, sign on for a multi-day spending in the saddle. Like most outfitters, Yellowstone pack trip or a full week at a dude ranch. Never been on a horse? “Not a problem,” said Marilyn Now, if a couple days in the saddle Dahle of Yellowstone Outfitters and Teton Village Trail Rides. “Seventy-five percent of our riders have never been have not reined in your desire for on a horse; it’s fun to take inexperienced people and see an Old West vacation, consider a the big smiles on their faces and the satisfaction when they learn to ride.” Yellowstone Outfitters leads riders into stay at a dude ranch, the ultimate the Teton Wilderness, where spectacular views of the Western experience. Tetons unfold around every bend. The chance to rest, dine, and for some, to angle. Wilderness areas are only accessible on foot or horse- fected elaborate “Wild West” getups as paying visitors at a back. So why ride a horse? “The thrill of just being on the Outfitters and Teton Village Trail Rides offer two-hour, “dude ranch.” While some places call themselves “guest” back of a horse,” said Dahle “is part of the Western ad- half-day, and full-day trips. If that’s not enough, they also ranches nowadays, seek out ones that have not dropped venture that people are after.” provide three- and six-day pack trips, as well as Orvis-en- the “dude” from their name: those will be the ranches of- “Agreed,” noted Cameron Garnick, of the Triangle C dorsed fishing trips to the Yellowstone River. And if you want fering the most authentic experience. Dude Ranch (whose untimely passing last fall touched the the Western adventure without spending the whole time on A proper dude ranch regales its guests with the ro- lives of many in the region). But that’s not all. “You can see a horse, check out the overnight wagon train trips. Spend mance of the West for a full week. Dudes are pampered in much more,” he pointed out, “because you are not having half of the trip on the wagon and the rest on horseback. a rustic setting with a full plate of activities, including to watch the trail. You can look around at the 360-degree Campfire cookouts come complete with a singing cowboy daily trail rides, cookouts, campfires, Western sing-a- view, enjoy the smell of the sage, the sounds of the forest, serenading campers by a fire under the star-filled sky. longs, and rodeos. Ranches tailor their weeks for singles, listen to streams, and drink in the landscape—and phys- If a couple days in the saddle have not reined in your couples, families, and groups. ical limitations can be overcome.” Traveling at 4-5 miles desire for an Old West vacation, consider a stay at a dude You’re smack dab in the middle of The West, so take an hour, horses can cover lots of territory, and in a short ranch, the ultimate Western experience. In the 1880s the advantage of it! Whether it’s for two hours or a whole time riders can be deep into the mountains. Plus, “you are term “dude” was applied to dressed-up city slickers, espe- week. doing it the way it was done by Indians, mountain men, cially to Easterners vacationing in the West and who af- Saddle up—and happy trails to you! 44 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2008 continued from page 43 Stock contractor Maury Tate said that’s what his horses and bulls want to do. He brings 2008 Rodeo Schedules 120-130 horses and 120-150 bulls, which he was raising before getting the Cody Nite Rodeo contract three years ago. Cody, Wyoming “They’re all born to buck,” he said. “It’s what they’re bred Cody Nite Rodeo–June, July, August, to do. It’s what their great-granddaddies and great-grand- nightly at 8:00 p.m. mas were bred to do. A lot of people think they’re wild, but Cody Stampede–July 1, 2, 3 & 4 they’re not. They just don’t get handled much as colts. They’re bred to buck and they love to buck.” Dodge Xtreme Bulls Tour–July 5 He raises some bucking colts himself and also buys from Jackson, Wyoming certain breeders. JH Rodeo–Memorial Day through Labor Day, “It’s a whole industry within itself,” he said. “Some peo- every Wednesday & Saturday at 8 p.m. ple just raise bucking colts.” Tate knows what he’s looking for. “To me the perfect sce- Dubois, Wyoming nario is when the horse looks really good, bucks really hard Every Friday June 20–August 22 at 8 p.m. and makes a really good ride. The cowboy is not competing Pinedale, Wyoming against the horse; the cowboy is competing with the horse. During the Green River Rendezvous weekend, “You want him to jump out there and kick—the higher Thursday – Saturday, July 10-13 at 7 p.m. and harder the better.” Bucking bulls are an industry of their own as well, with Triangle C Ranch registration programs, futurities, and classics. A cow with Ranch Rodeo–Friday evenings at 7:30 p.m. good bucking blood can bring $25,000, even $50,000. (20 miles west of Dubois or 70 miles “If your cow’s bred the right way, her calves can bring NE of Jackson, on US Hwy 26) $2,000 a round at six months old,” Tate explained. From Oklahoma, Tate and family own “Mo” Betta Cloth- West Yellowstone, Montana ing Co., which came about after he asked his mother to de- Every Thursday-Saturday from sign some wild Western shirts when he started rodeoing. He June 5-Aug 30 at 8 p.m. sold them off his back, literally, at rodeos where he first rode Gardiner, Montana bulls and then roped calves. Garth Brooks is a devoted cus- NRA Rodeo–June 13 & 14 at 8p.m. tomer and wears “Mo” Betta shirts at his concerts. Tate and his family work the Cody Nite Rodeo (almost 80 Big Timber, Montana years old) from June 1-Aug. 31 at 8 p.m., with the Profes- June 27 at 7 p.m. & June 28 at 6 p.m. sional Rodeo Cowboy Association-sanctioned Cody Stam- pede Rodeo (since 1937) July 1-4. Cody Nite Rodeo finals Wilsall, Montana will take place Aug. 31- Sept. 2 and their purse is nothing to June 7 at 6:30 p.m. & June 8 at 2 p.m. sneeze at, more than $90,000 last year. (30 miles north of Livingston, Montana, Nightly events include bareback and saddle broncs, calf on US Hwy 89) and team roping, steer wrestling, break-away roping, barrel Red Lodge, Montana racing and bull riding, as well as a calf scramble for the kids. Home of Champions Rodeo, July 2, 3 at 6 p.m. Kids are also treated to trick-roping demonstrations, meet- & July 4 at 3 p.m. ing bullfighters, getting their face painted by rodeo clowns and more. All seating is covered, with great views of the Livingston, Montana arena. Cody Nite Rodeo tickets are $16 for adults, $8 for kids Livingston Roundup–July 2, 3, & 4 at 8 p.m. 7-12. Cody Stampede tickets are $18. All can be reserved by Big Piney, Wyoming calling 1.800.207.0744 or stopping by Stampede Park, on the July 3 at 6 p.m., July 4 at 1:30p.m. west side of Cody. Let’s go rodeo! Meeteetse, Wyoming Joy Ufford lives in Bondurant, where she is a ranch Labor Day, September 1, at 1 p.m. hand and a writer for Pinedale’s Sublette Examiner.

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www.focusproductions. com 2008 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 45 The Shootout celebrates its 52nd anniversary this summer, making it the longest-running Western shootout in the country. O by Cal Glover h, just go get lost, will ya? Yeah, pardner, come with me. Let’s get lost for a while together, go back a few years. To a Jackson’s Hole of years gone by. In fact, let’s go all the way back to 1914, the year Jackson Hole became a town. Four locals each deeded a piece of land and thereby created what’s been called “The Square” ever since. So let’s just start there. Take a cool drink arches from 1953-1969. Every year, on the Sat- from the fountain in the center of the Square and urday before Memorial Day, the east side of the gaze up at the Bud Boller bronze of the cowboy Square is the site of our annual elk antler auc- on the buckin’ bronc. Look familiar? That same tion. Last year 5,379 pounds went for an aver- rendition’s on our Wyoming license plates as well age of $11.76 a pound. Elk antler artists will as the tails’ side of the Wyoming quarter. The take ‘em back home and make chandeliers and steed is a famous rodeo horse named Steamboat. furniture out of those “horns,” or carve ‘em into Notice the cowboy “fanning” with his hat. They belt buckles, bolo ties. Last year the Rotary won’t let cowboys do that anymore, as it might Club, working with the town of Jackson, re- induce a bucking bronc to turn in a desired di- placed the arch across from the Cowboy Bar rection. Say, towards a judge who’s actually eye- and plans to build a new arch every other year. balling the rider instead of cowgirls. (Wanna guess how many antlers it took to The tall trees above you are cottonwoods, build that new arch? Give it a shot—I’ll put the Wyoming’s state tree. But look around at the four answer at the end.) antler arches on each corner. Nah, we didn’t club Throughout the summer, six evenings a

“those poor deer” to death. The elk antlers are week, there’s an old-fashioned Western bottom: courtesy Jackson Hole Mountain Resort Photos — top: Bob Woodall; shed every year, and many were fed into the shootout on the Square’s southeast corner. In The town of Jackson and its night sky sparkle on July 4.

46 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2008 fact, this is the 52nd anniversary year for this, the longest- Oh, all right, just one from our ol’ pal Jeff Foxworthy: and we’d get it. That changed when riff-raff from Vegas running Western shootout in the country. It starts at 6:15 “If you go outside in the winter, drill a two-foot hole in the moved in. Jackson was written up in Fortune magazine as p.m., but get there early and find a good place to stand. ice, drop a sharp metal hook down that hole and stand ‘the second toughest town in the United States after Butte, We hear they use blanks, although the local cemetery is there all day in sub-freezing temperatures waiting for food Montana.’” in a pretty spot in case they foul up. to swim by and bite that sharp metal hook…you might Walk down the hallway leading to the Cowboy Steak- From the northeast corner stroll down Deloney Street live in Wyoming!” house beneath the bar. Black-and-white photos will take a hundred yards. Look at that old red barn, the door on If you’re 21 or older, saunter on into the Cowboy Bar, you back to years gone by. And check out those spurs. In the east side. Hollywood took that door away in 1980, which has been a landmark in our town since 1936. No the early years of dude ranching, the rodeos were the big hinged a fake one on so Clint Eastwood and Will Smith bar stools. That’s right, ya sit on saddles. Now in the old social events of the summer, occurring on July Fourth, (not that Will Smith) could come crashing out in the big days, up until the late Fifties, these watering holes were the first three days of August, and Labor Day Weekend. fight scene of Any Which Way You Can. (Okay, watch also called “The Joints.” There was gambling. According These days they take place Wednesday and Saturday closely—they’re stunt doubles.) Some 30 feature films to dude rancher Jack Huyler, in his book And That’s the nights throughout summer. The funniest thing you’ve have been shot here in Jackson Hole. Way It Was In Jackson’s Hole, “Whenever there was a civic seen in a long while will be the kids chasing the calf or So just what is Jackson Hole? William Sublette, of project in need of funds, we’d go to the ‘Joints’ for help; the goat, grabbing for the elusive ribbon on its tail. The mountain-man fame, named this 40-mile-long by 8-to- 15-mile-wide valley after his partner, Davey Jackson, while trappin’ beaver, or “soft gold,” in these parts back in the early 1800s. A quick trip back to the present. That big building about a couple hundred yards to the north? That’s our alpine slide rec. center. Visitors from out of town can use it, too. It sports athletic courts, a lap pool, kids’ pool, Jacuzzi, sauna, steam room, and the coolest three-story water slide for kids of all ages. Back to the Square with ya. Wander through some of our art galleries, view glimpses of our Western heritage captured in paintings, sculptures, and photos. Now, it’s alpine free to look, but you might notice they do not give these miniature golf things away. night skiing & snowboarding There’s an old-fashion Western shootout on the Looking for Square’s southeast corner. family fun? We hear they use blanks, Snow King Resort offers exciting although the local “King Tubes” summer and winter recreation for the snow tube park whole family! A year round, full-service cemetery is in a pretty resort offering hotel, 1-4 bedroom mountain biking condominiums and the luxurious Love spot in case they foul up. Ridge Resort Lodges. Packages available.

307.733.5200 | 800.522.5464 Have some fun. Find a local, ask, “Can you direct me to www.snowking.com George Washington Memorial Park?” Chances are you’ll get a blank stare. Most locals don’t know it, but that is the Square. Stand across from the Cowboy Bar. Look at the plaque bearing John Colter’s name. You’ve probably come to our valley because you like the great outdoors. Do you like it enough to do what John Colter did? He left the Lewis skiing & and Clark Expedition to be the first white man to venture snowboarding into our valley. Starting from the Missouri River, Private Love Ridge Colter traveled 500 miles, by himself, in the late fall of Resort Lodges 1807. He was the first white man to see the geysers of Yel- lowstone. Hard to say how he felt about them, since the earliest map depicts Yellowstone as “Colter’s Hell.” Located in the town of Jackson at Snow King Mountain. From the Some visitors will ask us what we do durin’ our long town square, take Cache Street south to Snow King Avenue, turn winters? Well, we have skiing and snowboarding, snow- left and continue to Resort. mobiling and dogsledding, but ya’ll might be interested SUMMER ACTIVITIES: alpine slide, alpine miniature golf, scenic chair rides, hiking, in knowing that we set a record in January of 1979, when patio dining, snack shack, mountain biking. WINTER ACTIVITIES: skiing, snowboarding, it got to 63 degrees. Ah, shoot, I done forgot to add that night skiing, King Tubes snow tube park, ice skating, and more! little “–” thingy before the number. That makes it, um, 95 degrees…below freezing! www.focusproductions. com 2008 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 47 The Town Square stagecoach (left) and The Ballad of Cat Ballou at the Jackson Hole Playhouse (above) can transport the entire family into worlds of adventure and entertainment. rodeo hasn’t changed much since dude ranching Store stood. Your supplies came to more than you picked up in the Twenties and Thirties. had, and Pop wasn’t around. Why, you’d just leave a Let’s stay lost for a bit longer, whaddya say? Let’s note and settle up next time you came to town. mosey north. Those old brown buildings are origi- That’s the way it was done. nal. Davies Reid was Jackson Drug for many a year, (Now don’t do what Bill Webb, owner of Green featured homemade ice cream. Walk past it, toward River Outfitters, swears is a true story. These two the Teton Theater, opened in 1941. Just think back gals were on the phone with Bill, asking what they and imagine a Saturday summer day in 1953, how should bring. Ol’ Bill said, “Nuthin’ really...just your the town folk looked as they lined up to see the fa- staples.” They showed up with, you got it, a box of mous Western, Shane, also filmed in our valley. staples!) That’s the Anvil Motel across the street, on the Hey, it’s kinda fun hanging lost back here in the corner. Let’s say that in 1917 you drove your buck- old days of Jackson’s Hole. Let’s stay just a bit more. board wagon from your ranch to town to get sup- Turn around and head back south, toward Snow plies. The Anvil was where Pop Deloney’s General King. That ski area opened in 1939. In late July we’ll SNOW KING RESORT

Nature, Jackson’s only real competition, is just minutes from downtown. The summit of Snow King Mountain, dazzlingly cloaked in wildflowers, boasts one of the valley’s most breathtaking views of the Teton Range. And it’s just six blocks south of the town square. The National Elk Refuge can be seen to the northeast and the Gros Ventre Range’s landmark, The Sleeping Indian, rests northeast of the refuge. Even Yellowstone National Park can be viewed off in the distance. Short nature hikes start from the top, where a picnic area provides an idyllic lunch spot. Forest Service naturalists, who likely will en- rich your knowledge of the area’s flora and fauna and distant mountain ranges, guide hikes there. The mountain’s summit, by the way, is there for everyone. A chair lift whisks riders from the town’s elevation of 6,180 feet to the crest’s 7,751 feet in a matter of minutes. More hearty visitors, of course, can ascend Snow King’s slope along its trails and

traverses, on foot or on bike. But hikers will need McKoy bottom 2: Wade Photos — top 2 and right: Bob Woodall; anywhere from 45 to 90 minutes, depending on fit- The resort also brings top-name music acts to ness and acclimatization. Scenic views are guaran- its base, in summer. Willie Nelson and Bob Dylan, teed either way, and the weary traveler can hop the among others, have played to delighted crowds, lift back down the hill for a mere dollar. themselves also wowed by millions of stars and the For those seeking an additional thrill, the Alpine mountain setting. Slide offers an exhilarating and scenic way to de- Finally, in an effort to supplant, if not replace, scend the mountain. Riders can control their speed the old-fashion drive-in movie theater, Snow King down the 2,500-foot slide that snakes through trees serves up outdoor movies for the entire family on and flowers. August Friday nights. Jackson’s evenings, though, are Folks of all ages can entertain themselves for not always toasty, so bring the blankets and beach hours at the base of the mountain by putting their chairs, and settle in for a special sundown treat. A hike up Snow King’s fields of flowers (above) or a wild ride way around an 18-hole mini-golf course near Snow No doubt about it: this is the Old and the New down its Alpine Slide (right) will make anyone’s day. King’s lodge. No lost balls around here. West. — Samantha Worthington / Mike Calabrese 48 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2008 The tall trees above you are Come in and taste what’s new! cottonwoods, Wyoming’s state tree. But look around at the four antler arches on each corner. Nah, we didn’t club “those poor deer” to death.

We’re so much more than Big Macs® and world famous fries. Unwind, rewind and plan new adventures. McDonald’s® of Jackson Hole Open and serving your favorites 5:00am - Midnight Daily Free Wi-Fi with purchase. 1110 W. Broadway • Jackson, WY 1 mile west of Town Square • 307-733-7444 Specializing in Lifestyle Real Estate Experience – Knowledge – Customer Focused Dana Harris – Sales Associate Jackson’s ranching practice, though not what it used to be, is still a part of the valley. 800.733.6060 ext 1088 Cell: 307.690.5702 have a running race to the top of Snow King, starting Email – [email protected] from The Square. Think you could you beat Tom Borschel’s 2004 record of 22:27? We’ll let you ski for free if you can do it! Walk past the Cowboy, take a right. Have dinner at or take a stroll through the Silver Dollar Dining Room in the Wort Hotel. Lots of wonderful moments captured in black-and-white pictures around the Western-themed Visit Jackson’s newest most innovative Real Estate website — LivingInJacksonHole.com room. Built in 1941, The Wort almost burned down in 1980, as shown in the pictures and news clips adorning the hallway’s walls. Valley firemen, though, saved the STEAKS ~SEAFOOD wooden bar laden with its 2,032 silver dollars. ~CHICKEN ~ In fact, you might just head in there. Walking through COMBINATION PLATES near 90 years of history, why you just mighta’ worked up a thirst. Or you might wanna grab a bite and stay lost for GREAT SOUP a while longer. Family Restaurant &SALAD BAR Come back when you’re ready, will ya? (Oh, and the elk antlers in that new arch? “Jackson’s Local Favorite” OPEN 7AM 1,948…12,000 pounds!) BREAKFAST BUFFET A place where things are still the same Cal Glover conducts tours of Yellowstone and Grand 1 block south of Town Square LUNCH &DINNER Teton parks via Callowishus Park Touring Company 307-733-2639 (307) 413-5483. He’s penned three locally set novels, in- Free Wireless Internet Available ASK US ABOUT OUR BEER cluding A Grizzly Death in Yellowstone. When he’s not 40 W. Pearl St. • corner of Cache & Pearl &WINE SELECTION touring or writing, he mans his post as Master of Jackson, Wyoming Time/Space/Dimension. www.focusproductions. com 2008 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 49 Stunning vistas await hikers above Teton Village.

by Lauren M. Whaley T eton Village’s Jackson Hole Mountain Resort may be most famous for its steep and deep skiing, but in summer, the surrounding valley overflows with wildflowers, blue skies, and countless activities for the entire family. With turnkey adventures and ready republic transportation—the START bus— sources for each activity, “The Village” is to it from rentals and hotels to embark making it increasingly easy to spend an en- upon a day of (or a summer of) discovery. tire day there exploring the mountains, din- Armed with an array of maps, guides, and ing, shopping, and sampling new activities equipment suggestions, the Bridger Center before retiring to a cozy mountain room. The staff will help you create individualized ex- light is still bright and glowing at 8 p.m. dur- cursions for yourself, friends, and family. ing much of the summer, making perfect Before you choose your adventure, you days seem endless. should know that the countdown has offi- “We’re not Disney, but we do have the cially started for the return of the resort’s convenience of purchasing multiple options iconic aerial tram. The new aerial tram at in one go,” says Anna Olson, Jackson Hole Jackson Hole Mountain Resort will be twice Mountain Resort spokesperson. The resort the size of the original. Its sleek cabins will offers tickets good for different activities, like carry 100 passengers and will dock into rock-wall climbing, nature hiking, and rid- new and improved top and bottom termi- ing the Bridger Gondola. “You pick and nals. “It will be faster, more efficient, and choose,” she says. tougher than its predecessor,” says Olson.

The resort’s Bridger Center makes a great The new red box is slated to start car- Photos courtesy Jackson Hole Mountain Resort base camp. Guests can easily walk or take rying skiers to the top of Rendezvous The resort’s new tram station should be welcoming skiers in December 2008.

50 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2008 most disciplined hiker. Watch the clock, though, and the climate. High-altitude weather changes quickly from sun- shine to thunderstorms and vice versa, so pack a jacket— and sunscreen—even for a short walk. Some folks hike down the mountain trail, a distance of 7.2 miles, while others hike up and ride the gondola down for free. Just up-valley, a 3.5-mile walk from Teton Village on the valley trail (or a short drive on the Moose-Wilson road), the new Laurence S. Rockefeller Preserve awaits those interested in adventure and history in Grand Teton National Park. Via Ferrata—Iron Way This hiking technique uses permanent iron rungs placed into exposed rock to allow hikers to scale faces that would otherwise be impossible without climbing equipment. A European specialty, Via Ferrata has now become its own sport around the world. The new Via Ferrata in Jackson Hole allows a variety of skill levels, from expert climbers to the novice guest, to experience the joy of climbing in the mountains. Jackson Hole Mountain Re- sort will introduce routes at the summit of the Bridger Gondola, including one for newbies to practice on, in July. Mountain Biking The resort recently created a bike-trail system that includes intermediate and advanced riding, with miles of rolling single-track. Ride your own or rent a mountain bike from Jackson Hole Sports, where you can also purchase a lift ticket to transport your bike up Teewinot chair lift. Ask a resort employee for a trail map. Those who want to get into tricks and jumps should check out the beginner terrain park on Eagles Rest. This is great for kids and novice riders and it’s free. It doesn’t get much more Western than the view from the cowboy’s best friend. For a leisurely ride without automobiles, take the Mountain in Dec. 2008. Check out www.tramforma- cold drinks, including beer and wine, as well as snacks Moose-Wilson pathway north to Grand Teton National tion.com for videos, photography, and updates on its and ice cream. Park or south all the way to Wilson. construction. Housed in the same building, the Couloir Restaurant Bridger Gondola offers a sit-down lunch, a full bar, and outdoor deck serv- Until you step into the new tram’s cabins in ski boots, ice. From 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. on weekends guests can enjoy a you can ride the Bridger Gondola to 9,095 feet this summer four-course, fixed priced dinner. (unlimited gondola rides cost $18). On the way up, gaze “Step off the Bridger Gondola in Teton Village at 9,095 below. You might spot moose, deer, feet and walk into a contempo- or even a black bear foraging on the The resort offers tickets good rary and hip, new restaurant,” says mountainside. Above, you may spy Olson. “The outdoor deck is a bald eagles soaring over hikers for different activities, like great place for lunch while taking wending their way to the top—the in views of Corbet’s Couloir, the fit and adventurous can hike from rock-wall climbing, soaring heights of the Headwall, the top of the gondola to the sum- and the incredible alpine setting.” mit of Rendezvous Mountain, if nature hiking, and riding After dining at altitude on they’re so inclined. The gondola is food prepared by former Four open at 9 a.m. daily, May 25 through the Bridger Gondola. Seasons Resort Chef Wes Hamil- Sept 28. ton, guests can ride the gondola down under a starlit sky. If the food, alpine settings, and Champagne and S’mores transportation to the restaurant aren’t enticing enough, Almost everyone has fond (and often gooey) memo- take Food and Wine magazine’s word for it. The publica- ries of campfire gatherings. New for 2008, families, cou- tion listed Couloir as “the place to eat,” in early 2008. ples and friends can enjoy handmade S’mores over an Hiking open fire pit at the summit of the Bridger Gondola with a glass of champagne. Weekends 5:30 - 8:30 p.m. After deli ice cream or before a dinner date (for which “resort casual” attire is fine), take a short, naturalist-led Visitors may have to detour around tram work. Bridger Restaurants tour into Cody Bowl or stroll the valley trail into Grand Paragliding The $9 million restaurants, boasting both a deli and Teton National Park or make the trek up to the 10,450- If you prefer wind in your hair to dirt on your tires, fine dining, opened last summer at the top of the gondola, foot summit of Rendezvous Mountain. Jackson Hole Paragliding will gladly take you to the top of just below the Headwall. There are 468 species of plants within the resort’s the gondola for a sky ride all the way down on the longest The Headwall Deli and Pizza is open all day, match- boundaries, according to David Gonzales’ Jackson Hole: commercial ride in North America. Their certified pilots ing the gondola’s hours of operation. It serves hot and On a Grand Scale—more than enough to distract even the continued on page 54

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board Shop. Nick Wilson’s sells Jackson or family at your hotel in the morning. He or she will plan Hole Mountain Resort logo apparel. the day for you, which could entail a guided excursion at Mountain Sports School Teton Village, horseback riding from the Village into The year-round Mountain Sports Grand Teton National Park, or simply an itinerary that you School administers all the “sporty” ac- complete on your own. The guide will even transport you tivities in Teton Village. It oversees back to your lodgings. mountain biking and trail orientation Kids’ Ranch classes, for example. The qualified Got kids? staffers also offer other fun recreational Teton Village is well equipped with staff and facilities activities at the base of the mountain, to handle wee ones from as young as six months old. The including bungee trampolining, fish- Kids’ Ranch operates June 18-September 2, right next to ing-rod rentals for the pond behind the the Bridger Gondola. Licensed day-care providers lead youngsters on adventures in Teton Village while focusing on the nature, You could spend an history, and science of Jackson Hole. Junior trekkers hike, play sports, undertake science and arts projects, entire vacation at this and frolic in the water. full-fledged year-round resort, and judging from the passel of things to do and see, maybe you should.

Mangy Moose, and rock-wall climbing. Additionally, they help operate the summer yurt and private adventure Kids of all ages take to bungee-trampolining. guide services. On Team Extreme, older kids may go mountain bik- Sleep in a Yurt ing, horseback riding, kayaking, even rock climbing! Lush grasses may hide it, but these bikers have found the trail. Sleep over in the Tetons at the Rock “They’ll be able to do all the things that are available to the public with their camp counselors,” Olson says. “It’s continued from page 51 Springs Yurt—the Village’s version of an upscale tent with Mongolian origins. The modern Rock Springs’ yurt houses an activity-based day program with counselors who are have logged hundreds of hours flying in the Tetons and a wood-burning stove, eight bunk beds, a kitchen, and a well-trained, good fun people.” are eager to introduce first timers to the unique experi- large dining table. This unusual adventure is both rugged Peaceful Pursuits ence of tandem paragliding. and luxurious. Reaching the yurt requires a 2.5-mile hike For some, a vacation is about being pampered, and Disc Golf up a trail that gains 1,400 feet in elevation. But once there, Teton Village boasts plenty of tranquil treatments. If you If making things fly through the air rather than at- your only responsibilities are enjoying the scenery and find it necessary to get away while getting away, several taching wings to yourself sounds more appealing, play your friends. Expert guides cook the food, stoke the stove, resort properties offer spa treatments, top-of-the-line fit- nine holes of Frisbee golf on the free course near the base and even do the dishes. Not a bad tradeoff for an exhila- ness centers, and restaurants the likes of which you’d ex- of the resort. Bring your own discs or buy them at one of rating hike. Porters are also available. pect to find in metros like New York City. the resort’s many shops. Playing is free. Private Adventure Guide Entertainment Rentals and Purchases Those who detest the idea of narrowing the choices Daily, check out the Mangy Moose Saloon—the fa- With so many places to recreate, Jackson Hole Moun- from so many amazing activities can hire an adventure mous Teton Village bar with top-name, live entertainment. tain Resort naturally includes an abundance of shops that guide. The guide will make these choices easy so you can Throughout the summer, visit Walk Festival Hall to hear rent gear. These include Teton Village Sports, Jackson Hole enjoy your day without the stress of planning it. music from the Grand Teton Music Festival series. Witness Sports, Jack Dennis Sports, and the Hole in the Wall Snow- The guide will meet you and up to five of your friends epic orchestra performances under the music direction of maestro Donald Runnicles, only the third person to hold the position in the festival’s celebrated 45-year history. If you visit early in the season, definitely take in the COME AND STAY WITH US. Second Annual Mountain Festival over Memorial Day weekend, which kicks off the summer with live music, dis- Enjoy a comfortable, pleasant and inexpensive stay counts, and plenty of food. at the base of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. With all its amenities and activities, not to mention Enjoy the magnificent and breathtaking country. being a gateway to Grand Teton National Park, Teton Village begs for a long stay. You could spend an entire 1 or 2 persons $70.00 vacation at this full-fledged year-round resort, and 3 or 4 Persons $85.00 judging from the passel of things to do and see, maybe you should. Box 583, Teton Village, Wyoming 83025 Besides writing full time from her home office’s an- • 307-733-3415 • FAX: 307-739-1142 • tique drafting table, Lauren M. Whaley delights in jump- http://www.hostelx.com ing into mountain lakes, climbing rock, and dancing in town after a day of wilderness adventure.

54 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2008 Photos, left: courtesy Jackson Hole Mountain Resort; this page, top: Wade McKoy; bottom: courtesy Grand Targhee Photos, left: courtesy Jackson Hole Mountain Resort; this page, top: Wade

Teton Valley’s shimmering waters (above) lure fly-fishers and Grand Targhee’s summer music festivals (below) draw top name acts and devoted music lovers.

J by Mike Calabrese ust over the pass from Jackson Hole, set beneath the majestic Grand Tetons, lies one of the West’s most beautiful gems, Teton Valley. A broad scenic basin, once known to trappers and mountain men as Pierre’s Hole, Teton Valley is today a budding all-season playground for the young at heart.

Teton Valley harbors a summer’s (and winter’s) worth of diverse recreational opportunities for the entire family, and it’s a mere 25 minutes from Jackson Hole. The breadth of Teton Valley’s eye-popping landscape cries out to anglers, hikers, backpackers, cyclists, horseback riders, music lovers, and to sightseers who just want to soak up all the natural wonders tucked in on the west side of the Grand Tetons. The valley’s high-altitude Western towns of Victor and Driggs still cling to their small-town charm while offering visitors service and first-class amenities to match the mountains. At the base of Teton Pass lies the town of Victor, Idaho, often a first and last stop for travelers (and for in-the-know locals) heading to or from Jackson. The Victor Empo- rium, right smack dab downtown, is the unchallenged old-fashioned soda fountain king of the region. The clever little enterprise also dispenses spot-on fly-fishing updates and info, and stocks all the gear and flies that put anglers in touch with their quarry. A well- known hangout for those who crave chocolate malts or huckleberry milkshakes, the Emporium’s handmade soda-fountain concoctions are often the reward for anglers re- turning from a day on the nearby South Fork, Teton, or Henry’s Fork rivers, trout havens that lure fly-fishers and boaters alike. Teton Valley is also home to one of the country’s finest ski areas—the powder mine www.focusproductions. com 2008 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 55 Countless activities await Teton Valley’s summer visitors, from hiking to horseback riding, from mountain biking to major music festivals to fine dining, all in terrain every bit the equal of Mother Nature’s best.

of Grand Targhee Resort. And, as with most ski resorts, its summer terrain promises equally rewarding adventures. Already world-famous for its unsurpassed and prodigious winter-recreation menu, Grand Targhee is now staking out its claim as a major summer destination resort. Countless activities await summer visitors and lodgers alike (that includes RVers), from hiking to horseback riding, from mountain biking to major music festivals to fine dining, all in terrain every bit the equal of Mother Nature’s best. The resort accesses hiking and biking trails ranging from half- a-mile to nearly eight miles, in an alpine setting where breathless- ness is a choice. You can earn it the old-fashioned way or by climbing aboard the resort’s Dreamcatcher chair lift, which will whisk you and the crew to the 10,000-foot summit of Fred’s Mountain. And when the stars come out at Grand Targhee, they really come out. From July 18-20 this year, the mountain plays host to the enor- mous talents of musicians Emmylou Harris, Lyle Lovett, Derek Trucks, and Taj Mahal, among others, during its celebrated Targhee Fest. Then, from August 8-10, bluegrass royalty like Tim O’Brien, Spring Creek, the Sam Bush Band, Blue Highway, even crossover banjo virtuoso Bela Fleck, share the stage with scenery as grand as anything on the planet. McKoy resort; concert: Wade Photos — horses & bikers: courtesy Grand Targhee Climbing for mountain bikers (above left) might still include the Grand. Aaron Neville (above Grand Targhee’s nationally known entertainment productions right) testifies at last year’s Targhee Fest. Kids happily and confidently ‘set ahorse’ on the have paired up these spectacular headline acts with the aspens, firs, west side of the Tetons. NOTEWORTHY MUSIC BOOKING AGENCY • The finest live music acts in the region • Jazz, Swing, Rock, Country, Solos, Duos,Trios & Big Band • Impeccable references Michael Calabrese • 307-733-5459 P.O. Box 289 • Wilson, WY 83014 E-mail: [email protected]

56 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2008 gently sloping meadows, bluebird days and star-laden • Merrell • Smith • Carhartt • Dansko • Temple Fork Fly Rods • evenings that mountain country is famous for. Its out- Cloudveil door festivals, now in their 20th season, are unsurpassed celebrations of music in the North American tradition. Home of Grand Targhee’s growing list of activities and ameni- Nalgene ties include a Kids’ Camp Summer Program that will

• THE World Famous knock their socks off, a ropes course, climbing wall, disc • golf, swimming, and more. Huckleberry Milkshake WoolSmart • And for visitor’s looking to gear up for Targhee’s terrain and the valley’s exhilarating recreational opportu- Sportif nities—notably biking, hiking, kayaking, and • camping—Peaked Sports should be the only stop they make. Owned and run by serious outdoor recreationists, Where the locals shop Peaked Sports sits right in the valley’s heart, Driggs, Rapala Idaho. These folks know what they’re talking about for flies and Maui Jim when it comes to making the most of equipment and the • fishing gear. outdoors. Owner Dick Weinbrandt, for instance, is a nationally ranked Ironman competitor. You know, the folks who swim 2.4 miles, then bike 112 miles, before finally SUNGLASSES • HATS • setting off on the 26.2-mile run known as a marathon— all in one event! SHOES • GIFTS • T-SHIRTS Nalgene A great place for training or recreation advice, and ESPRESSO • JEWELRY for gear, clothing, and guides to the region, Peaked Sports is the perfect shop for those looking for some- Native Eyewear • thing ‘over the hill.’ •

Sure, it may lie over the hill from Jackson Hole, but Action Optics Teton Valley’s array of summer activities and amenities

sounds more like a fountain of youth, one that is luring Rapala 208-787-2221

enthusiastic visitors of all ages. • Mike Calabrese is over the hill, in Jackson, and has Located in downtown Victor, ID been for 35 years. The owner of the region’s premiere music-booking agency, Noteworthy, he supports his fly- ~ Just 30 minutes from downtown Jackson Hole ~ Sportif fishing addiction through music performance, editing. • • Temple Fork Fly Rods • Smart Wool • Smith • Rapala • Sportif

www.focusproductions. com 2008 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 57 Yellowstone’s countless wonders include an array of geysers.

by Mike Calabrese A ll right. You’ve been on the road for days. Pets and kids (maybe even spouses) clamoring for your attention, succor, food, whatever. You’ve maintained your otherwise threatened sanity with thoughts of Yellowstone’s splendor and magnificence, its vastness and promise of nature’s less domesticated sonic attributes (trees soughing in the breeze, birds voicing their approval, perhaps even the growl of some ursine creature). But are you really ready to hit the park, cold turkey? Without, say, a brief respite? Face it, you might just need to catch your breath— final supply stop before heading off into nature’s majesty. maybe even that sanity—before handing over entrance Today, 100 years after it’s founding, West Yellowstone’s fees to a ranger at the park’s gate. You could no doubt use 900 or so residents gear up annually for summer visitors a place where you can check through that list of necessi- readying themselves for park travels and mountain- ties before hitting one of the park’s campgrounds or country outings. pitching a tent in the backcountry, or simply piloting West, as it’s called by locals (locals include folks from your crew around Yellowstone’s countless wonders. as far away as Jackson Hole, Wyoming, and Bozeman, If you’re anywhere near West Yellowstone, Montana, Montana), is the perfect place to begin preparing for that keep the faith. If you’re not in the vicinity, head there now! journey into the park. Bookstores stocking an amazing The town rests comfortably at 6,666 feet, its air clean array of regional history, angling, and photography and refreshing—and welcoming. West Yellowstone’s tomes also provide a sanctuary to relax in before—or broad streets, its passel of restaurants, diverse shops, and after—a park foray. Gift shops, microbreweries, delis, tree-hemmed lodging could be the start of one great ven- pizzerias, bike and outdoor-gear rental outlets, angling ture into Yellowstone park itself. shops, clothing enterprises, restaurants, sandwich coun- Oh, yeah, and because it’s summer, the snow has ters, bars, grocery stores, all of them in West are prepared been pretty much packed away until late next fall. to help the weary—and at times stymied—traveler The town teems with folks and activity throughout make the best of a visit to one of the most celebrated and the summer, but then again, it is 2008, not 1907, when impressive pieces of geography in the world. the town’s few visitors arrived mostly by rail on the Ore- Here’s a short list of what West Yellowstone’s ami-

gon Short Line. Travelers to West Yellowstone then had able folks can steer the visitor to: cycling, fishing, hik- (3); Jerry Johnson (Diane Hausman painted buffalo) Photos — Bob Woodall almost no means or opportunity to take advantage of a ing, hot springs, horseback riding, rafting, kayaking, Solitude and scenery await Yellowstone park anglers. 58 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2008 tours, rodeos, movies, food, rest, the 53rd Annual Knothead Jamboree The Painted Buffalo Roam even medical assistance. And, of and the 11th Annual Fall Cycle Tour. course, churches—for those whose Topping it all off, the West in West souls have been tried in the best and Yellowstone is celebrated by that most worst of times, spent all too often in Western of traditions, rodeo. Cowpokes motor vehicles jammed with kin compete every weekend, from June and camp kitchen. through August, in the arena just a few West itself butts right up against a miles outside of town. Visit www.yel- park that is home to 300 miles of lowstonerodeo.com for more info. roads, six types of ungulates, grizzly Now if all of this seems like more and black bears, 10,000 thermal fea- than a body could handle, there’s always Visitors to West Yellowstone this summer should tures, roughly 200 geysers and 41 wa- time for just laying over in West and once again watch out for buffalo roaming the town. terfalls, and at 2,221,766 acres, enough walking around the friendly little town They’re big—almost life-size—and unlike their real- land to apply for United Nations mem- Hundreds of wildflower varieties itself, grabbing some grub, a drink, or a life counterparts, safe to approach and willing sub- bership. So when West opens its doors in Yellowstone, like this shooting souvenir, or just basking in a mountain- jects for budding wildlife photographers. for summer travelers, businesses had star, bedazzle onlookers. country community smack dab in the These buffalo are also artfully adorned. better be ready. And they are, with products and services at middle of nature’s playground. West Yellowstone’s Buffalo Roam art exhibit in- peak quality. For more information, visit West’s chamber site at cludes 26 hand-painted buffalo, 25 of which were cre- Visitors, too, had better be ready. Blazing hot days and www.westyellowstonechamber.com. Or call the chamber ated by individual artists from the Rocky Mountain brisk, cool nights endured in cars, tents, or on the trails, de- at 406-646-7701. West, and one that was painted by all 25 participating mand a certain amount of preparedness from Yellowstone’s Mike Calabrese, a 35-year resident of Jackson Hole, artists in a special ceremony last spring. Artists were visitors. Weather extremes move in and out of the Yellow- supports his fly-fishing addiction as a professional mu- selected in a juried process based on their visual con- stone area like goldfish darting around in an aquarium. The sician, editor, and writer. He is the owner of Noteworthy, cepts of three themes: Yellowstone, Historic West Yel- nights can carry both the haunting howling of wolves and the region’s premiere music-booking agency (www.note- lowstone, and Native Americans. coyotes (yep, even in town) and the daunting chill of quick worthymusicagency.com ). These buffalo all began as a single10-inch wax temperature drops. model crafted by Joe Halko and based on a photo of a West’s summer calendar is loaded with gatherings and bison cow near Madison Junction in Yellowstone Park. festivities that beckon devotees with a mind-boggling array 800-565-6803 Halko then expanded the wax to an eight-foot-long of interests. June pretty much kicks off the region’s sum- 406-646-4892 model using layers of styrofoam, which was shipped mer season. Watch for “The Painted Buffalo Roam,” “The back to Buffalo, Minnesota, and transformed into a Painted Calves Unveiling,” The Janet Clarkson Memorial • Smoke free facility mold employed to create 27 buffalo cows. Triathlon, and the opening of fishing on the park’s inim- • Frig & microwaves Each spring for the next two years the buffalo art itable Firehole River. July, of course, starts with the usual in all rooms will “roam”—will be exhibited at different sponsors’ bang and festivities on the 4th, while August plays host to • Indoor pool locations throughout town. At the end of the three- the 37th Annual Yellowstone Rod Run, the 3rd Annual • Free internet access year showing, the painted buffalo will be sold to the Smoking Waters Rendezvous, The Pineneedle Stampede— • Fitness center highest bidders. For more information visit the web- a footrace through one of the country’s most picturesque • Contiental Breakfast site www.wyed.org/west_yellowstone _painted_buf- trail systems—and the Yellowstone Historic Center Ball. www.yellowstoneclubhouseinn.com falo_roam.htm. — Mountain Country September and October round out the social calendar with [email protected]

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Picnic Box Lunches Sandwiches Made With Fresh Baked Bread! Breakfast- Bakery Items Party Trays & MARKETPLACE Catering Service 406.646.9467 Deli Sliced Meats & Cheeses WILDLIFE SCULPTURES Dine in or take out MONTANA ART Call ahead for “no wait” pick up! Beer & Wine 107 Canyon St., West Yellowstone, MT 406 Hwy 20 • West Yellowstone, Montana

www.focusproductions. com 2008 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 59 Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center

Nothing can prepare visitors to West Yel- mage for food hidden throughout the habitat lowstone’s Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Cen- by both the center’s staff and visiting kids, ter (GWDC) for the startling, up-close reveals behavior that, frankly, few people experience of viewing these epic, almost ever witness. Seeing Illie actually snatch a mythic, animals. The haunting, intelligent live rainbow from the habitat’s stocked pond eyes of the gray wolves and the regal pelage beats looking at even the most famous and and majesty of the grizzlies is simply widespread photos of Kodiaks swatting at breathtaking, even in this carefully con- salmon. Impressive as those images are, they trolled and maintained habitat. A visit to the simply can’t convey the deft quickness of an center can be every bit as moving and edu- 800-pound grizzly. cational as a journey through the park itself, The center’s Gallatin Wolf pack—Lakuna, especially for folks who never venture away Hayden, Naya, Granite, Aztec, and Alyeska— from cars or campgrounds. roam in their own habitat, separate from that of The not-for-profit Grizzly and Wolf Dis- the grizzlies, but are just as easily and produc- covery Center, also host to a first-class edu- tively viewed from the viewing deck. Kids, as cational exhibit center and theater, is the last well as adults, seem mesmerized by the wolves, stop for some of nature’s most recognizable and because passes to the center are good for and yet most threatened creatures. It should two consecutive days, visitors often return, as if be a first-stop for visitors to the park. to confirm the reality and proximity of these All of the center’s grizzlies were other- mysterious ancestors to today’s canines. wise doomed, thanks in no small part to Wolves are again the center of attention in the Yellowstone region. The GWDC is AZAA (American Zoo and their unfortunate adjustment to, or run-ins with, humans. bears, both “real and imaginary.” The 25 taxidermic spec- Aquarium Association) certified, a much prized and hard- Foolish interactions, like feeding them or the misguided imens highlight the richly diverse coloration of grizzlies earned endorsement. A visit to the Grizzly and Wolf Dis- killing of predatory sows by ranchers, put these bears on and the awe-inspiring girth of the polar bear. Even ac- covery Center will easily win over the hearts and minds a path toward certain destruction. The phrase “a fed bear complished outdoorsmen will find the exhibit area’s in- of visitors of any age. is a dead bear” is not empty rhetoric. teractive stations intriguing and challenging. For more information, call the GWDC at 800-257- The center’s stunning exhibit, “Bears: Imagination and Watching these bruins (the playful Sam tips the 2570 or go online its site: www.grizzlydiscoveryctr.org. Reality,” compellingly draws visitors into the world of scales at 1,000 pounds) tussle with each other or rum- — Mike Calabrese Yellowstone in Winter

When winter comes to Yellow- stone, it transforms the park into a wonderland. Sparkling frost clings to the trees. Blue- green ice forms up the sides of waterfalls and geyser-fed waterways remain open, providing a winter refuge to hundreds of waterfowl, including the rare trumpeter swan. Bald eagles are seen perched in snags along the river banks and otters play in the snow. Larger wildlife is also about in abundance during the winter months, and visitors often find themselves sharing the road with bison and elk. Transportation is limited to

guided snowcoach and snow- Discovery Center top: courtesy Grizzly and Wolf Photos — bottom: Bob Woodall; mobile tours on groomed road- Elk and bison hold fast to the park’s landscape even in winter. ways. Complete tour packages, tour guides, and daily enabling visitors of all ages to sit back, relax, and take in rentals are available throughout the region, including all the incredible winter scenery. Special tours are also West Yellowstone, Mammoth, Cody, Jackson, and the Tog- available for skiers interested in gliding through geyser wotee Pass area. In addition to the groomed park trails, basins or exploring the backcountry. Ski rentals are avail- there are also extensive groomed trail systems in the for- able in all the gateway communities. est service lands surrounding Yellowstone. Snowmobile Winter in Yellowstone is a unique experience, and not enthusiasts of all abilities will find plenty of riding pos- to be missed. Whether you choose to enjoy it by snow- sibilities from which to choose. mobile, snowcoach, or on skis, be sure to come back to The splendor of Yellowstone in winter may also be visit this incredible area when it is clad in a deep layer of enjoyed in the comfort of an enclosed snowcoach. snow. It’s an experience you’ll never forget. Guided tours leave West Yellowstone and Mammoth daily, — Bob Woodall 60 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2008 Story by Joy Ufford Photos by Fred Pflughoft

T he sign welcoming travelers into Pinedale says it best— “All the civilization you need.” Pinedale is still a small town at heart, set in big country. And it’s clear, even from the road, that the nearby Wind River Mountains, Green River and its lakes, historical sites and hordes of wildlife remained unspoiled all these years after trappers first gathered here in the mid-1800s. So setting off from the highway could no doubt make for an un- expectedly memorable experience. A weary visitor to Pinedale’s environs can easily ig- nore the modern world. The nearby Green River still goes drifting along like it has forever, the Wind River Moun- tains off in the distance change their intriguing hues from dawn till dusk, and bawling cattle are still herded through endless sagebrush fields by cowboys on horseback. But the visitor needs to get out there in that marvelous landscape—and it’s not that hard to do. Whether you prefer to drive, bike, hike, float, ride, or climb your way to cre-

Access to the glorious Wind River Range is only one of countless avenues open to Pinedale visitors. oneers who came through this country in the last 100, 150, events. Rodeos are featured during the Green River Ren- even 175 years, found compelling reasons to return to the dezvous and Big Piney’s Chuck Wagon Days (over July Green River Valley. Today’s visitors Fourth) as well as during the often discover similar reasons, and Sublette County Fair, a down- the beckoning landscape and Lakes large and small, high up home celebration complete with high-spirited activities might be and higher up, are set gemlike singing cowboys, rhinestone rop- There are some 1,300 lakes, and hundreds of among them. ers, a fiddlers’ jamboree and miles of fishing streams in the area. The annual Green River Ren- throughout the Winds and more, all reflecting the region’s ate an adventure or find seclusion, it really is simple to get dezvous, with its unique parade, ranching and agricultural roots, away from it all. mountain-man traders’ row, and nearby Wyoming Range... July 25-Aug 3. So make a plan, Stan, or Pam! renowned pageant of grizzled Looking for something a lit- The first item to check off that list is ‘When to visit?’ characters, is certainly one of the region’s most popular tle more solitary? The headwaters of the Green River, Part of that is determined by your personal schedule, but events, happening this year July 11-14. which flow past old homesteaders’ cabins and classy guest knowing a bit more about the area’s events and activities If recreating on and around mountainside lakes gets ranches, begin near the iconic Square Top Mountain and might make it easier for you to get that coveted week or your adrenaline going, blaze a trail to the Father’s Day Green River Lakes. Trails, some fairly rough and some two off for a getaway. Fishing Derby on Fremont Lake, where the Pinedale Boat worn smooth with use, lead hikers, riders, and mountain What to do? The mountain men, fur trappers, and pi- Club holds its annual sailing regatta and other water bikers up into wildflower-filled gullies and through stun- www.focusproductions. com 2008 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 61 If you get a yearning for the old ways and old days, hiking into the Bridger Wilderness can give you that. More than 428,000 acres of wild land where you’ll never hear a chainsaw or meet a four-wheeler.

Trekking through the Winds reveals land and sky that create a stunning natural picture. Kids love to captain their own craft. ning landscapes in a relatively short time. chainsaw or meet a four-wheeler. If you require a little less making reservations before you arrive. Lakes large and small, high up and higher up, are set reality but still seek experiences of the early days, there If in all this outdoors-oriented vacation you need that gemlike throughout the Winds and nearby Wyoming are quick and enjoyable alternatives. little slice of civilization, there’s downtown Pinedale with Range, where fishing for mackinaw, rainbow, cutthroat, Visit the area’s two wonderful local-history museums its established cowboy shops, new movie theater, out- and golden trout is its own reward. Whether you go solo or and get a lesson as only they can teach it. The Green River door-gear shops, hardware and auto-supply stores, two hire a guide, fishing can be a complete vacation choice Valley Museum in Big Piney is open June 15-Oct. 15, noon weekly newspapers, arts and cultural happenings, excel- around Pinedale. The same goes for floating, kayaking, to 4 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday, donation admission. lent dining, and western shopping. No WalMart within boating—even water-skiing on Boulder Lake’s chilly wa- The Museum of the Mountain Man in Pinedale opens May 100 miles! Whether you need new cowboy boots or the ters (not for the faint of heart, though). 1-Sept. 30, open daily 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Adults $5, kids $3. latest in fishing gear, you’ll find it in this little western The Winds are so spectacular and formidable they You’ll come away with a new appreciation for the moun- town with a big heart. almost defy travelers to find the range’s heart. But the tain men, miners, pioneers and ranchers who struggled People here are proud of their uniqueness, yet just as rock climbing (especially in Cirque of the Towers), back- to find a way to survive in this paradisiacal valley. true of the Green River Valley community in the old-fash- country pack trips and horseback rides, flat-to- The next question should be, ‘Where do I stay?’ Make ion sense of the word, there are bonds linking locals one frightening mountain biking, and breathtaking wildlife it as fancy or down-to-earth as you desire, from camping to another and to the land. watching (more animals than people in this territory!) rough beside a mountain stream to cozying up at bed- It won’t take you long to discover those feelings within are world-renowned. and-breakfasts, watching wildlife wander through cabin yourself outdoors in Pinedale’s backyard. If you get a yearning for the old ways and old days, sites or savoring luxuriously rustic stays at working guest Joy Ufford lives in Bondurant where she is a ranch hiking into the Bridger Wilderness can give you that. More ranches. Campgrounds, RV parks, and motels fill quickly hand and writer for the Sublette Examiner in Pinedale. than 428,000 acres of wild land where you’ll never hear a in Sublette County’s glorious summers, so plan ahead by

Got the stamina to explore 1300 lakes Welcome to Mountain Man Country! & climb Wyoming’s tallest peaks? Pack your mule, pack your boots, and be sure to pack your camera.

Museum of the Mountain Man MuseumoftheMountainMan.com

Green River Rendezvous Days July 10–13 Pinedale & Sublette County Wyoming For more information on planning MountainManCountry.com • 888.285.7282 your summer adventure.

62 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2008 Green River Rendezvous and Meet me on the Green 72nd Annual Museum of the Mountain Man GREEN RIVER By Mike Calabrese RENDEZVOUS PAGEANT Only the term “mountain man” can Sunday, July 13, match that of “cowboy” for the wealth 1pm at of color and lore associated with the “winning of the West.” Cowboys, of Pinedale course, roamed pretty much every- Rodeo where west of the Mississippi and have Grounds outlived even their almost mythical epoch of the late 1800s. But mountain $5 Admission men, who made do with less (after all, cowboys always had their horses and cattle), pretty much went the way of the beaver hat by the late 1850s.

For every Bat Masterson, Bill Roundup Pinedale Boner, Jeannette Photo Hickok, and Wyatt Earp, there’s an equally notable mountain man. John C. Fremont and William Sublette have a “Our Camp,” by Alfred Jacob Miller, depicts the 1837 rendezvous couple of Wyoming counties and held on the Green River near present-day Pinedale. Miller, who vis- mountain peaks named after them. ited this rendezvous with Sir William Drummond Stewart, provides Parade: Jedediah Smith and Kit Carson have the only artistic renderings of the original event. Saturday, July 12, 11am certainly garnered enough press to earn their places in in this rewarding and informative setting. Saturday, July 12, 11am popular Western culture. And mountain man Jim Bridger The Museum of the Mountain Man is open daily from Downtown Pinedale is so revered around here that visitors to Wyoming will 9 a.m. until 5 p.m., through September 30. Admission fees Lion’s Club BBQ: find no fewer than 21 places honoring him. Fitting, then, are $5 for adults, $4 for seniors, and $3 for kids 6-12 years Sunday, July 13, 11:30 that a .40 caliber half-stock rifle of his should end up in old. For more information call toll free (877) 686-6266 or www.meetmeonthegreen.com the region’s most famous collection of mountain man his- go online at museumofthemountainman.com. Call (307)367-2242 for information tory and memorabilia—Pinedale, Wyoming’s Museum of the Mountain Man. Even more fitting, the museum is situated on a hill not far from the site of the original Green River Rendezvous, which began in 1833 in the “Valley of the Green.” Over 3,000 Indians, hundreds of mountain men, fur trappers, and missionaries gathered there to barter and trade their goods. The cry “Meet me on the Green!” was a reminder and a reassurance to trappers, who spent long and isolated winters gathering beaver pelts, and to traders who traveled countless miles on hazardous, often life-threat- 31 S. Sublette Ave. ening trails. These rendezvous sometimes lasted for months, time enough to get supplies, renew friendships, Pinedale, WY swap stories, trade, tipple, and, yes, debauch. Of the 16 rendezvous held during the height of the Rocky Moun- tain fur trade, six were located in the Green River Valley. 307-367-3667 Exhibits at the museum provide a good starting point for visitors heading to the 72nd Annual Green River Ren- dezvous, a re-creation of those original mountain man gatherings. This year’s rendezvous is replete with activities for the entire family and runs July 10-13. The Ren- • Indoor Pool & Jacuzzi dezvous Pageant, where over 200 members of the • Free Continental Breakfast community perform in original costumes, is set for Sun- day, July 13 at 1 p.m. at the Pinedale Rodeo Grounds. For • Free High-Speed Internet more information visit the Green River Rendezvous Pag- • Refrigerator and microwave in every room eant Association’s website at meetmeonthegreen.com or • Located minutes from White Pine Ski Area call (307) 367-2242. The museum captures the ways and lore of these hearty individuals. Clothing, artifacts, mounted animals, even a 307-367-8800 tipi help bring the days of the mountain man alive. The mu- Locally Owned & Managed seum also colorfully showcases western wildlife, Indians, West Hwy 191 in Pinedale The LODGE fur trapping, wagon trains, mountain men, and even bison 1054 W. Pine St. in its spacious 15,000-square-foot facility. Bridger’s rifle, Pinedale, WY 82941 AT PINEDALE given to him in 1853, was at one time part of the Buffalo Reservations 1-866-995-6343

Art courtesy Buffalo Bill Historical Center, Cody, Wyoming. Gift of The Coe Foundation. 11.70 Wyoming. Cody, Art courtesy Buffalo Bill Historical Center, Bill collection. Fortunately, it has found a permanent home www.focusproductions. com 2008 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 63 by Barbara Foote Colvert

C ody, Wyoming, is a big little town. Big in history, big in perspective, big in style, big in things to do indoors and outdoors. The town of nearly 9,000 takes its name from founding father William Frederick “Buffalo Bill” Cody —scout, marksman, hunter, Pony Express Rider, world-renowned showman, and visionary. Cody saw in this northwestern corner of Wyoming boundless opportunity and invested all that he was and all that he earned to make the region Old Trail Town, resting right on Cody’s original town the region from 1879-1901. Old Trail town also harbors flower. And flower, it has, into a premier travel hub and site, hearkens back to a classic Western era. Twenty-six historic gravesites, among them the final resting place for vacation spot for families, history buffs, and connoisseurs weather-scarred buildings transported from around the Jeremiah “Liver Eating” Johnson. Johnson, of course, was of the great outdoors! Big Horn Basin contain thousands of artifacts from In- brought to life on the big screen by Robert Redford. Yellowstone National Park, established in 1872 as the dian trappers, frontier settlers, and cowboys who lived in Cody’s summer calendar is itself almost legendary, world’s first national park, is a mere 52-miles east of and from June through September, no one’s date Cody. The road from Cody to Yellowstone is known book should be empty. On the outskirts of town, vis- today as the Buffalo Bill Scenic Highway, and Teddy itors and rodeoers alike gather for the famous Cody Roosevelt justifiably called it “the most scenic 50 Night Rodeo, where local and regional cowpokes per- miles in America.” That it is, with guest ranches of- form every night throughout June, July, and August. fering scenic trail rides through landscape also per- The Cody Stampede, the region’s true barnburner, fect for hiking or photographing. Countless unique this year kicks off on July 1, runs through the nation’s rock formations along the byway wear historic names July Fourth celebration, and features pro-rodeo rid- such as “Holy City” and “Old Woman and Her Cabin.” ers in world-class competition. No wonder Cody is But a glance in any direction from Cody also re- known as the Rodeo Capital of the World! veals plenty of other scenic drives originating right And speaking of our All-American holiday, a from town. The Chief Joseph Scenic Highway and the Cody 4th will dazzle young and old like no other, with incomparable Beartooth Pass, for example, or nearby three parades and a fabulous fireworks show at the towns such as historic Meeteese and Red Lodge, Pow- close of four days of pure Western fun. ell and its Homesteader Museum, and Ralston, which At the Buffalo Bill Dam Visitor Center, just six Clockwise from top: The spectacular Wapiti Valley extends celebrates an annual Rendezvous and Mule Days, are miles from Cody, Buffalo Bill’s remarkable foresight from just west of Cody to the East Entrance of Yellowstone; all accessed from Cody. And at the park’s east gate sits Cody’s Wild West Shootout brings together the Cowboy Ac- is further revealed through his vision to bring water Pahaska Teepee, where Buffalo Bill entertained tion Shooters for authentic quick-draw action; colorful to the town and the region. The center also recounts

friends and dignitaries from around the world. Western characters are often seen on the streets of Cody. the dam’s construction, and houses displays about McKoy facing page: Wade Photos — this page: Bob Woodall;

64 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2008 the Big Horn Basin and surrounding areas. Outside the Irma, the Cody Gunfighters entertain visitors center in case the great outdoors (or the trekkers them- But it’s Cody itself that really calls out to travelers. In nightly throughout the summer season, reenacting fa- selves) need a break. the curve of Sheridan Avenue lies the Buffalo Bill Histor- mous gun battles and shootouts by Western characters For lodging in the many excellent bed and breakfasts, ical Center, home to five separate museums encompassing you will recognize. The showdown begins nightly at 6 p.m. hotels and motels, and for details of seasonal events more than 300,000 square feet. The original Buffalo Bill To enjoy a historic overview of the town, hop aboard throughout the year, contact: www.codychamber.org or Museum was erected on the current site of the Cody the Cody Trolley for a charming tour through Cody’s past www.yellowstonecountry.org Chamber of Commerce in 1917, just ten years after Cody’s and present. This one-hour 22-mile tour conveys passen- William Frederick Cody received the Congressional death at the age of 71. Moved to its current site with con- gers through the heart of the West. Relax listening to Medal of Honor for bringing the West to the world. Come music in Cody City Park during the free summer concert to Cody and see why! series; book a trip on the Shoshone River for white-water Barbara Foote Colvert has worked for more than 30 rafting, kayaking, or hire a fly-fishing guide; replenish years as a graphic designer, journalist, writer, and editor, your gear for hiking, mountain biking, rock or ice climb- and has been an award-winning newspaper lifestyle ed- ing, or cross-country skiing. itor and columnist. Her books include Harvest of Hope– Cody also boasts a state-of-the-art aquatic and sports Family Farming and Farming Families and Resolutions.

Buffalo Bill Dam on the Shoshone River creates the Buffalo Bill Reservoir, an asset for recreation and irrigation. ...Galleries and shops carrying Western art, photography, furniture, jewelry, clothing, keepsakes, Old Trail Town, Cody, WY and more, welcome the tired, the You don’t have to search the globe for a great vacation, it’s here— Cody/Yellowstone Cody/Yellowstone hungry, and the curious. Country. There’s no better place – or time – to be with your family or friends. Call or visit struction of the Whitney Gallery of Western Art in 1959, our website for a free vacation guide and Country the BBHC also houses the Plains Indian Museum, the Cody Firearms Museum, and the Draper Museum of Nat- package information. ural History. Take a break in the BBHC coffee shop or bistro, or peruse books, Native American jewelry, fine art prints, and other items of local interest in the gift shop. Museum visitors can relax knowing that a pass is good for a second day if they haven’t seen enough of what James Michener rightly called, “The Smithsonian of the West.” The wide streets of “Downtown Cody,” lined with galleries and shops carrying Western art, photography, furniture, jewelry, clothing, keepsakes, and more, welcome the tired, the hungry, and the curious. “Where’s the beef?” Cody’s range of fine restaurants will supply the answer, and whet the appetite of even the most discerning palates. The historic Irma Hotel, built by Cody himself in 1902 and named for his youngest daughter on the occasion of CODY/YELLOWSTONE COUNTRY her engagement, sits in the center of town. The famous P.O. Box 2454 •Cody, WY 82414 • 800-393-2639 • www.yellowstonecountry.org cherry-wood bar is one of the most photographed sites in Cody, a gift from Queen Victoria to the famous showman.

www.focusproductions. com 2008 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 65 Buffalo Bill Historical Center

Set in historic Cody, Wyoming, the Rounding out the Buffalo Bill Buffalo Bill Historical Center (BBHC) Historical Center’s perspective, the invites visitors to embark on a virtual Cody Firearms Museum reveals in- expedition through the American West. sights into the impact of the firearm With over 300,000 square feet of floor on history. The fine art of engrav- space on three levels, the center pres- ing and revolutionary advance- ents a breathtaking view of the West ments in engineering are among with an entire museum dedicated to the surprising elements of the story each of five themes: the natural won- told with the world’s most compre- ders of the Yellowstone region, the leg- hensive collection of American end of Buffalo Bill Cody, the living arms, as well as European arms culture of the Plains Indian, the fine art dating to the sixteenth century. of Western masters, and the marvelous In addition to its five museums, story of the evolution of the firearm. the Buffalo Bill Historical Center The center’s newest wing, the hosts the McCracken Research Li- Draper Museum of Natural History, brary, which specializes in Buffalo portrays the natural world of the Bill’s Wild West, Western art and Greater Yellowstone region, while un- artists, Plains Indian history and derstanding the Western environment “Buffalo Drive,” by William R. Leigh, is one of the vast collection of art displayed in culture, firearms history and tech- sets the stage in the Buffalo Bill Mu- the galleries of the Buffalo Bill Historical Center. nology, the natural history of the seum for a fascinating look at the life and times of William what Crow elder and historian Joe Medicine Crow called Greater Yellowstone region, the history of Yellowstone Park, F. “Buffalo Bill” Cody. a “living, breathing place.” Western folk music, and Cody area history. The timeless beat of the powwow and the powerful The Whitney Gallery offers visions of the American Visitors may purchase reproductions of fine Western recitation of stories handed down through the ages are West through the eyes of its master painters and sculp- art, jewelry, and Native American art at the Historical Cen- among the audio experiences awaiting visitors to the tors. Landscapes by Albert Bierstadt and Thomas ter’s museum store, Museum Selections. Admission is Plains Indian Museum. The use of audio-visual exhibits Moran share space with paintings of the classic West by good for two consecutive days and includes entry to all in combination with one of the nation’s largest collec- Frederic Remington, Charles M. Russell, N.C. Wyeth, five museums. For more information call 307.587.4771 or tions of Native American art and artifacts has created and W.H.D. Koerner. visit www.bbhc.org. — Buffalo Bill Historical Center

Save 35-70% on Famous Name Brands

Clothes · Footwear Gear · Home Decor and more! Art courtesy Buffalo Bill Historical Center, Cody, Wyoming. Acquired with donations from the Whitney Purchase Fund, William F. Davidson, The Coe Foundation and Corliss C. and Audrienne H. Moseley. Davidson, The Coe Foundation and Corliss C. F. Acquired with donations from the Whitney Purchase Fund, William Wyoming. Cody, Art courtesy Buffalo Bill Historical Center,

Stop by the Cody Outlet Store Located near The Buffalo Bill Historical Center · (307) 578·5802 · SierraTradingPost.com/Cody Photo — facing page: Bob Woodall

66 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2008 by Nancy Debevoise T he mountain-hemmed town of Dubois and the Upper Wind River Valley that surrounds it are only about an hour’s drive from Jack- son Hole, but they’re a world away. Trade alpine for desert... The area is one of the most spectacularly scenic—and still relatively undiscovered— vacation destinations in the Northern Rockies. Dubois is a small ranching community (population about 900) set on the Wind River between the Ab- saroka and Wind River mountain ranges. The town and its outlying hay meadows and cattle ranches are bordered by An angler plies the waters in Brooks Lake Creek. Bighorn Sheep several million acres of National Forest, more than half of fly-fishing gear to handsome coffee-table books and upscale which are protected as wilderness areas. gifts. A tour of town shops reveals fine silver jewelry, crafts Interpretive Center Spectacular Wild Country by Native American tribes, high-quality Western-theme Few mammals can match the Rocky Mountain To the east of town are the dramatic red rock canyons and gifts, and crafts by local artists. bighorn sheep for its sure-footedness. Powerful and colorful rock formations of the Dubois Badlands. To the Off the Beaten Path nimble, even at 250 to 300 pounds, it treads crags and southwest loom the rugged peaks and glacial lakes of the Dubois is a busy place in the summer, but the solitude rocky trails like no other creatures on earth. But this Wind River Range. To the North rise the pine-clad slopes and and natural splendor of the badlands and mountains are magnificent animal’s survival is threatened all over alpine meadows of the Absaroka Range. And rolling away to only minutes away. Miles of scenic unpaved roads take vis- the West. Fortunately, its beauty and tenuous existence the southeast are the sagebrush hills and high plains of the itors in vehicles or on mountain bikes deep into the back- have been showcased graphically and elegantly in the vast Wind River Indian Reservation, home to the Northern country, and dozens of trailheads lead to a network of National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center, right in Arapahoe and Eastern Shoshone tribes. well-maintained hiking and horse trails. downtown Dubois, Wyoming. The valley abounds with wildlife. Nearby Whiskey Southwest of Dubois is Union Pass, said to be the only Stunning, full-size bighorns—set amidst their Mountain supports the largest herd of Rocky Mountain place in the country where three river sources flow in dif- natural flora and geology—lend to this center a bighorn sheep in North America. Other big-game animals ferent directions: streams born on the pass eventually join breathtaking realism. Photos and hands-on exhibits and rare species thrive in the wild country that surrounds the Columbia, Mississippi, and Colorado rivers. Union Pass draw visitors into the majestic range and habits of Dubois: moose, elk, antelope, deer, wolf, mountain lion, bald is accessible to four-wheel-drive vehicles during the sum- these stunning animals. Set aside some time for the and golden eagle, grizzly and black bear. Area streams and mer months and early fall. kids to take in the center’s engaging hands-on displays lakes teem with an impressive array of game fish, including Southeast of town is Whiskey Mountain with its resi- and information. rainbow, lake, brook, cutthroat, golden and brown trout, dent bighorn sheep herd and a major trailhead that serves Dubois, of course, hosts this interpretive center for grayling and mountain whitefish. as the jumping-off point for hikes and horsepacking trips good reason: nearby Whiskey Mountain is home to Lots To Do in Town into the Fitzpatrick Wilderness. The dirt road that leads to the largest wintering herd of Rocky Mountain bighorn Although outdoor adventures are the area’s specialty, the trailhead makes for slow going, but sharp-eyed travel- sheep in North America. And, during winter, the staff there’s lots to do in town as well. ers can spot ancient petroglyphs carved into rock faces offers fully guided tours to the snowy habitat. The cen- The National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center, along the way. ter’s website also accesses a biologist’s journal de- opened a few years back, has already become a major vis- For those who really want to get away from it all, a num- scribing the sheep’s slow recovery from the population itor attraction. The center houses a number of impressive ber of local outfitters offer guided fishing and pack-horse “crash” of 1990. exhibits on bighorn sheep biology and successful herd trips into nearby wilderness areas. Located right on the main street of Dubois (which management methods used at Whiskey Mountain. Next For more information about Dubois and the Upper just happens to be Wyoming Highway 287/26), the Na- door, the Dubois Museum’s exhibits link the valley’s eth- Wind River Valley, contact the Dubois Chamber of Com- tional Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center is open daily merce, P.O. Box 632, Dubois, WY 82513, (307) 455-2556, or nic, social, cultural, and work history with its archaeology, from 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. during the summer. Admission geology, and natural history. on-line at duboiswyoming.org. fees are $2 for adults, 75 cents for children, and $5 for On Friday nights, from June 20 to August 22 at 8 p.m., Nancy Debevoise is a writer who lives in Dubois, families. cowboys and cowgirls take to the arena just east of town to Wyoming. Her articles about the Northern Rockies have ap- For more information, call toll free (888) 209- test their rodeo skills. peared in The New York Times, The Washington Post, Travel 2795, go on-line at www.bighorn.org, or e-mail the Dubois shops sell everything from cowboy boots and & Leisure, and Destination Discovery. center at [email protected].—Mike Calabrese

Twin Pines Lodge & Cabins 19 N. 1st Street Stop in for all your Your Home Away from Home, Dubois, Wyoming fishing, camping & In Yellowstone Country 307.455.3468 hunting supplies. Open 7 Days Whiskey Mtn. Outdoor Gear and Clothing Tackle & Sports Fly Fishing • Backpacking Books • Maps • Topos 1428 Warm Springs Drive 307-455-2600 • Toll Free Reservations: 1-800-550-6332 www.windrivergearshop.com 307-455-2587 218 W. Ramshorn St • [email protected] [email protected] www.twinpineslodge.com

www.focusproductions. com 2008 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 67 A CTIVITIES–BUSINESSES–SERVICES

ACCOMMODATIONS, CAMPING & SPAS TERRA Find unique pieces from local artists as well as Calypso, River Canyon. Single-day & overnight backcountry sea kayaking trips Trina Turk, True Religion, Joe’s Jeans, James Perse, Robert in Yellowstone. Canoe & kayak instruction for all ages & abilities. CODY, WYOMING Graham, Splendid, Lacoste, Anya Hindmarut. 105 E. Broadway. Full service paddle sports specialty shop. 260 N. Cache, Jackson, 307- BUFFALO BILL’S CODY/YELLOWSTONE COUNTRY Information center, 307-734-0067 pg 12 733-9999. pg 29 836 Sheridan Av., 800-393-2639 www.yellowstonecountry.org pg 65 TETON MOUNTAINEERING Jackson's backcountry shop. DMM, CAMERAS, BINOCULARS & PHOTOGRAPHY DUBOIS, WYOMING Black Diamond, Metolius, Petzl, The North Face, Patagonia, Arc'teryc, Mountain Hardwear, Prana, Lole, Carve Desgin. Rental JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING TRIANGLE C RANCH 3-6 day traditional summer dude ranch vacations camping gear available! Tents, packs, sleeping bags and sleeping with programs for the whole family.(800) 661-4928 or 307- 455-2225 pads.170 North Cache, Jackson 733-3595 pg 39 DD CAMERA CORRAL Jackson’s oldest full service camera store. Authorized dealer: Canon, Nikon, Lica, & Pentax. Binoculars, film, frames, TWIN PINES LODGE & CABINS Lodge & Cabins, A classic since TETON VILLAGE SPORTS Jackson Hole’s mountain recreation spe- 1934, modern with rustic ambiance, cable TV, VCR's, refrigerators, & accessories. Friendly & knowledgeable staff. 2-hour film & digital pro- cialists featuring a large selection of outdoor apparel, shoes & cessing. 60 So. Cache, across from Eddie Bauer. 307-733-3831 pg 13 & 71 walking distance to restaurants, taverns & shopping, reasonable equipment for hiking,biking, fishing, backpacking, disc golf, skiing rates, Continental breakfast, Downtown, 800-550-6332 pg 67 & snowboarding. 307-733-2181 pg 21 FOCUS PRODUCTIONS, INC. Publishers of Mountain Country, Jackson JACKSON HOLE & TETON VILLAGE, Hole Skier & JH Dining Guide. Commercial & editorial photography & TETON VALLEY-DRIGGS/VICTOR, IDAHO stock photo library. 307-733-6995 www.focusproductions.com WYOMING PEAKED SPORTS Located in Driggs & scenic Teton Valley, Idaho, our WILD BY NATURE GALLERY features the wildlife & landscape photog- HOSTEL X A friendly family lodge with rooms for 1-2 at $70 or 3-4 at knowledgeable staff and full-service bike shop can help you gear up raphy of Henry H. Holdsworth. Behind the Wort Hotel, 95 West Deloney $85, all have private baths & maid service. At the base of the Jackson for all your outdoor adventure. 208-354-2354, 800-705-2354 pg 56 wildbynaturegallery.com 307-733-8877 pg 13 Hole Aerial Tram, in Teton Village, Wyoming. 307-733-3415 pg 54 ART, JEWELRY & MUSIC CLIMBING WALLS & CLIMBING GUIDES SNOW KING RESORT Full service hotel & conference center with condominiums, restaurant, lounge, & spa facilities. Alpine slide, JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING miniature golf, chairlift rides to the summit of Snow King Mountain. DANSHELLEY JEWELERS: Wearable works of art created by Dan & CLIMBING WALL Located in Teton Village at the base of the moun- PG 47 307-733-5200 Shelley, plus other designers. From diamonds to elk ivory, Teton and tain, practice your climbing skills on our specially designed VIRGINIAN LODGE 170 rooms, jacuzzi suites, phones, restaurant, wildlife designs. Gaslight Alley, just off the Town Square. Mountain Dew ® Climbing Wall. 397-739-2654 pg 52 saloon, liquor store, convention facilities, cable TV. Summer RV park. www.DanShelley.com 307-733-2259 pg 3 CLIMB WITH THE EXUM GUIDES Daily climbing instruction - 750 W Broadway. 307-733-2792 or 800-262-4999 pg 45 HINES GOLDSMITHS Jackson’s premiere gallery of fine jewelry Jenny Lake & Teton Village. Beginner to Advanced. Climb Grand VIRGINIAN RV PARK 105 large spaces, 64 pull-through spaces. 50 designers since 1970. Elegant one-of-a-kind pieces, diamonds & col- Teton & other peaks. One-day climbs. Families & groups. amp electric, full sewer hook-up, cable TV, laundry, swimming pool, ored stones. The original Teton pendants & rings, & charms of the Reservations: 307 733-2297. pg 37 restaurant, saloon and liquor store. 307-733-7189 pg 45 area. 80 Center Street, east side of town square. ENCLOSURE INDOOR CLIMBING CENTER Try indoor rock climbing JACKSON HOLE RESORT LODGING Conveniently located next to www.hinesgold.com 307-733-5599 PG 31 for excitement and challenge. Climbing for all levels and ages.Great the Teton Village Market, lodging & accommodation for all seasons. JC JEWELERS Jackson’s premier fine jewelry store. Specializing in family fun at affordable rates. www.enclosureclimbing.com 670 Affordable condos to luxury vacation homes, for family getaways custom designs in precious metals and fine gems. Western designs Deer Lane, Jackson 307-734-9590 pg 37 and reunions. 800-443-8613, 307-733-3990 PG 52 PINEDALE, WYOMING include elk ivory jewelry and charms. In the landmark log cabin at JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN GUIDES Since 1968 Offering guided 132 N. Cache. www.jcjewelers.com 307-733-5933 PG 7 climbs and rock climbing instruction in the Tetons, Winds, THE LODGE AT PINEDALE Center of Pinedale, 43 rooms, NOTEWORTHY MUSIC AGENCY Provides entertainment for all Beartooths, Red Rocks, Moab & Indian Creek and City of Rocks. 800- deluxe continental breakfast,comp evening cookies, indoor types of occasions. Call Mike Calabrese, 307-733-5459 pg 56 239-7642 www.jhmg.com pg 39 pool & jacuzzi,laundry, lobby computer w/high-speed internet, PINEDALE, WYOMING refrigerator & microwave in every room, Sat-TV w/HBO. BICYCLE: RENTAL, SALES, & SERVICE www.lodgeatpinedale.com. 866-995-6343 PG 63 SUBLETTE COUNTY Hiking & climbing in the Wind River & JACKSON & TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING Wyoming Ranges.MountainManCountry.com pg 62 SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE MountainManCountry.com pg 62 FAT TIRE TOURS Guided mountain-bike adventures on the Elk FOOD–RESTAURANTS–DELI–GROCERIES GRAND TARGHEE, WYOMING Refuge, Snow King Mountain, and the Bridger-Teton Forest. Beginners GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons where thru experts. Great Fun. 40 S. Millward. 307-733-5335 pg 23 LOUNGES & LIQUOR STORES all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Take a scenic chairlift to the FITZGERALD’S BICYCLES WANTED! Visitors to Jackson Hole look- JACKSON & TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING summit, experience geocache treasure hunting or horseback riding ing for bike rentals, repair, sales & local info. Must be willing to in our panoramic backcountry. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 57 interact with friendly bike addicts. Appreciation for customer serv- THE ATRIUM Full menu, from sandwiches & burgers to hand-cut steaks. WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA ice a must! 307-734-6886 pg 25 Local beers & full cocktail service available. Incredible daily breakfast buffet & full service espresso stand. Summer patio dining. Groups wel- CLUBHOUSE INN Just 2-blocks from West Entrance. Indoor pool, HOBACK SPORTS Jackson’s largest & complete bike shop. Staffed hot tub, exercise room, smoke free facility, Continental breakfast. 5 by professionals who can rent, repair, fit & accessorize. Dealer for come, kid friendly. At Snow King Resort 307-733-5200 pg 47 restaurants within half-block. IMAX, Grizzly/Wolf Discovery Center, Specialized, Trek, Haro and Santa Cruz. Bike tours daily. 520 West BILLY’S GIANT HAMBURGERS The locals' first choice for a great Museum of Yellowstone adjacent or across the street. 105 S. Electric Broadway. 307-733-5335 pg 23 half pound burger, hot dogs and sandwiches. In a lively diner St., 800-565-6803 yellowstoneclubhouseinn.com pg 59 JACKSON HOLE SPORTS Bike Rentals for the entire family in the atmosphere. Daily from 11:30 thru dinner. Counter service & take- DAYS INN 116 rooms downtown West Yellowstone, with pool & Bridger Center, Teton Village. Free Teewinot lift access with full day out. Next to the Cadillac Grille, on the Square. 307-733-3279 pg 72 100’ waterslide, only 3 blocks from Yellowstone National Park. 301 rentals at Jackson Hole Sports. Gear, sportswear, shoes, accessories CADILLAC GRILLE A locals' favorite for over 20 years. Choice steaks, Madison Avenue, 1-800-548-9551 pg 59 and more. 307-739-2687 pg 52 game, fresh seafood & pasta. Innovative dishes prepared with care & precision for the discerning palate. Lunch & dinner. Premium well KELLY INN While visiting the breathtaking expanse of Yellowstone TETON VILLAGE SPORTS Bike sales, rentals, repairs & accessories in drinks. Bar menu. 2-for-1 happy hour 5-7daily. Opens daily at 11:30. On Park, stay with us in our beautiful 3-story property with a rustic log Teton Village. We also offer a large selection of apparel, shoes & the Jackson Town Square. 307-733-3279 pg 72 & wood exterior, and a warm relaxing interior including a lobby fire- equipment for hiking, backpacking, disc golf, skiing & snowboard- place.104 S. Canyon St., 406-646-4544 pg 59 ing. 307-733-2181 pg 21 COULOIR AT JH MOUNTAIN RESORT Step off the Bridger Gondola in TETON VALLEY-DRIGGS/VICTOR, IDAHO Teton Village thousands of feet above the valley & walk into a contem- APPAREL porary & hip new restaurant, recognized by Food & Wine Magazine as CODY, WYOMING GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons where the place to eat for lunch or dinner (Feb. 2008 issue) pg 52 all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Mountain bike rentals, sin- SIERRA TRADING POST OUTLET STORE Cody’s best selection of gle & double track riding from base. Expert downhill riding from top 43 NORTH Upscale Tavern at the Base of Snow King Mountain. outdoor clothing and equipment. The North Face, Carhartt, Kelty, of chairlift. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 57 Open nightly with alfresco and rooftop dining. Live Music. Enjoy aged steaks, fresh seafood, and micro-brewed beer. 733-0043 pg 31 Vasque, Marmot, Pearl Izumi, Lowe Alpine. Just south of the Buffalo PEAKED SPORTS Located in Driggs & scenic Teton Valley, Idaho, our Bill Historical Center, 1402 8th Street, 307-578-5802 pg 66 knowledgeable staff and full-service bike shop can help you gear up JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT Buffalo & Elk steaks, burgers, DUBOIS, WYOMING for all your outdoor adventure. 208-354-2354, 800-705-2354 pg 56 jerky, salami & smoked roasts. Pick up your steak for the BBQ, gift WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA packs available, WE SHIP! A must stop when in Jackson, Free WIND RIVER GEAR Technical clothing, footware, rain gear, casual Samples Located in Eagle Village @ SMITH’S Plaza, 5 min. south of wear, trekking poles, tents, sleeping bags, camp gear, optics, books, FREE HEEL & WHEEL Nordic ski & bicycle specialists. Rentals, town 800-543-6328 / 733-4159. www.buybuffalomeat.com pg 4 GPS, compasses, maps, even canine gear for your best friend. repairs & sales. Casual & technical clothing. Patagonia dealer. Local JACKSON HOLE DINING GUIDE This 96 page magazine is a compendi- ....where outdoor adventures begin. pg 67 knowledge. Comfortable atmosphere. Coffee shop inside, enjoy an um of menus from the areas restaurants, with index of food types, along JACKSON & TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING espresso while shopping. 40 Yellowstone, 406-646-7744 pg 59 with maps to restaurants. Pick up a copy at your lodge or view on line at CLOUDVEIL MOUNTAIN WORKS Our Flagship store features the BOATING–CANOEING–KAYAKING www.focusproductions.com full range of our innovative outdoor apparel, all designed & tested JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT At Teton Village, over 12 restau- in our hometown of Jackson. From versatile soft shells to authentic SCENIC & WHITEWATER RAFTING rants offer breakfast, lunch & dinner, from gourmet burgers, pizza to dis- casual styles, quality without compromise. 120 W Pearl, tinct American cuisine. pg 52 www.cloudveil.com 739-3930 PG 17 JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING THE LOUNGE AT SNOW KING RESORT A casual place to have a JACK DENNIS SPORTS Celebrating our 40th Anniversary! Locally BARKER EWING Safe and exciting whitewater adventures, relaxing drink. Specialty martinis and local beers with full dining menu. A owned & operated, Jackson’s premier outdoor store, extensive selec- scenic floats, combination day trips and overnight stays on the tion of brand name products needed for any outdoor pursuit. Two Snake River. Picnics, dinner cookouts, wildlife, mountains and more! showcase of regional entertainment. Snow King Resort 307-733- locations; on the Square in Jackson 307-733-3270, Alpenhof in Teton www.barker-ewing.com pg 27 5200 pg 47 Village 307-733-6838. www.jackdennis.com pg 35 LEISURE SPORTS We Rent Adventure! Rafts, canoes, kayaks, duck- McDONALD’S OF JACKSON HOLE Where quality, service, cleanliness JACKSON HOLE CLOTHIERS Exciting store with the best in con- ies, catarafts, drift boats, fly fishing equipment, camping gear, SUVs, & value are a tradition. Featuring McDonald's freshly prepared break- temporary Western apparel: men, women & children.Shirts by and economy cars. Guided fishing trips available. Full outdoor retail fast & regular menu favorites. Wi-Fi availability for your convenience. Ryan Michael, Double D Ranchwear & Old Gringo Boots. Open to too.1075 S. Hwy 89, Jackson, 307-733-3040 pg 29 5:00am-midnight daily. 1110 W. Broadway @ Hwy 22. pg 49 9pm, Jackson Town Square. 307-733-7211. pg 7 MAD RIVER BOAT TRIPS With 14 departures daily, Mad River has TETON STEAKHOUSE Breakfast, lunch & dinner. Steaks, salad bar, JACKSON HOLE SPORTS In the Bridger Center, Teton Village, is something for everyone. New equipment, trained guides & the most chicken, seafood & more. Jackson’s local favorite! Corner of Pearl & your one-stop shop for an active summer outing. Sportswear, shoes, variety. Breakfast, lunch & dinner trips.The best name in whitewater Cache across from Antler Inn. pg 49 accessories & Resort wear for the entire family. Mountain bike & scenic trips! 1255 S Hwy 89, 307-733-6203/800-458-7238 pg 27 VIRGINIAN SALOON Restaurant, saloon, liquor store, convention facili- rentals and lift tickets. 307-739-2687 pg 52 RENDEZVOUS RIVER SPORTS Jackson’s paddle sport headquarters. ties, 750 W Broadway. 307-733-2792 or 800-262-4999. pg 45 MERRELL For 25 years Merrell® has been providing outdoor enthu- We have a full selection of top brand merchandise & offer guided WESTSIDE STORE & DELI Full service grocery, deli & meat dept. siasts with quality performance footwear for their active and after tours & lessons. 945 W. Broadway in the Sidewinders Building. 307- Custom sandwiches, fresh baked breads, ATM, gourmet cheese, thin sport pursuits. Available at Hoback Sports, Jackson Bootlegger, and 733-2471 PG 29 crust pizza and specialty foods. On the Teton village road 5 miles Teton Village Sports. pg 5 SNAKE RIVER KAYAK & CANOE Whitewater rafting in the Snake before Teton Village @ the Aspens. 307-733-6202 pg 19 68 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2008 WESTSIDE WINE & SPIRITS Offering a wide selection of the finest wines, all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Go horseback riding in our edgeable staff and full-service bike shop can help you gear up for all liquors & beers from around the world. At The Aspens, Teton Village panoramic backcountry. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 57 your outdoor adventure pg 56 Road. 307-733-5038 [email protected] pg 19 JACKSON & TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING VICTOR EMPORIUM Where the locals shop for fishing advice & gear! Hats, gifts, T-shirts, ice cream, World Famous Huckleberry TETON VALLEY-VICTOR/DRIGGS, IDAHO JACK DENNIS SPORTS Celebrating our 40th Anniversary! Shakes, & more. Something for every member of the family, even VICTOR EMPORIUM Ice cream & more. World Famous Huckleberry Exceptional guided fishing trips, hand-crafted flies, and superior the dog! Downtown Victor. 208-787-2221 pg 57 Shakes. Something for every member of the family, even the dog! service are the norm. On the Square in Jackson, 307-733-3270 & the Downtown Victor. 208-787-2221 pg 57 Alpenhof in Teton Village, 307-733-6838. www.jackdennis.com pg 35 RODEO WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA SNAKE RIVER KAYAK & CANOE Fly-fishing instruction & guided fishing trips. snakeriverkayak.com 307-733-9999 pg 29 CODY, WYOMING ERNIE’S DELI & BAKERY Picnic box lunches. Sandwiches made with fresh baked bread! Deli-sliced meats & cheeses. Breakfast bak- TETON VILLAGE TRAIL RIDES Take a horseback ride on the Historic CODY NITE RODEO Best of Buffalo Bill’s Wild West. All Rodeo Events. ery items. Dine in or take out. Beer & wine. Call ahead for “no wait” Snake River Ranch with a real cowboy. Hourly rides. Quality moun- Nightly at 8:00, June 1– Aug. 31. Kid’s events, clowns, covered grand- tain horses. Next to Teton Village. 307-733-2674 pg 45 pick-up! 406-646-9467, 406 Hwy 20. pg 59 stand, free parking. Tickets available at the covered wagon in city park, WAGONS WEST COVERED WAGON TREKS Relive pioneer FREE HEEL & WHEEL Coffee shop inside, enjoy an espresso while front gate & various businesses. 307-587-5155 or 800-207-0744 pg 43 days on a 2, 4 or 6 day trek into the Mt. Leidy highlands. JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING shopping. Nordic ski & bicycle specialists. Rentals, repairs & sales. [email protected] 307-886-5284, 800-447-4711 pg 45 Comfortable atmosphere. 40 Yellowstone, 406-646-7744 pg 59 WESTBANK ANGLERS Home to Jackson Hole’s most experienced & JH RODEO Wild West action - Jackson’s lowest-priced family activi- TRAPPERS RESTAURANT Adjacent to the Days Inn, enjoy delicious professional guided fly fishing services. Full & 1/2 day trips, beginner to ty, kid’s events. Family-$40 Wednesdays & Saturdays - 8:00. Reserved food in a family atmosphere. Known for our sour dough, take some experts. Snake, Green, New Fork & South Fork Rivers & Yellowstone seats - $14 per ticket. Free parking. Special July 4th Rodeo. 4 blocks home. Only 3 blocks from Yellowstone National Park. 301 Madison National Park. 307-733-6483 or 800-922-3474 pg 35 from downtown Jackson. 307-733-2805 pg 43 Avenue, 1-800-548-9551 pg 59 YELLOWSTONE OUTFITTERS 2 & 4 hr & all-day horseback rides into GIFTS, ANTIQUES & RETAIL SPECIALTIES Teton Wilderness. 6-day 1st class horse-pack trips into Yellowstone & REAL ESTATE Thorofare Rivers. Orvis-endorsed outfitter. Box Creek base camp east JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING JACKSON & TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING of Moran Jct. @ 23590 Buffalo Valley Road. June, July, Aug & Sept. TETON VILLAGE Gift shops, apparel, sports equipment, at Jackson Reservations needed, 307-543-2418, 800-447-4711 pg 45 DANA HARRIS, SALES ASSOCIATE, REAL ESTATE OF Hole Sports in the Bridger Center. 732-3618 pg 52 SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE Hiking, fishing, riding in the JACKSON HOLE Experience, Knowledge, Customer Service. Wind River & Wyoming Ranges.MountainManCountry.com pg 62 Specializing in lifestyle real estate that fits your lifestyle. Golf JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT Buffalo & Elk steaks, burgers, properties, ski properties, vacation properties. Call 307-690- jerky, salami & smoked roasts. Pick up your steak for the BBQ. Gift TETON VALLEY-VICTOR/DRIGGS, IDAHO 5702, or visit us at www.LivingInJacksonHole.com PG 49 packs available, WE SHIP! SEE FOOD & RESTAURANTS pg 4 VICTOR EMPORIUM Where the locals shop for fishing advice & TETON VILLAGE REALTY Browse our listings or search for other JACKSON HOLE RESORT STORE The official logo store of the gear! Hats, gifts, T-shirts, ice cream, World Famous Huckleberry real estate opportunities in the greater Jackson Hole area, visit our Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Your source for logo apparel & gifts Shakes, & more. Something for every member of the family, even website at www.tetonvillagerealty.com. Teton Village Realty’s team on the east side of the Jackson Town Square. 307-734-6045 pg 52 the dog! Downtown Victor. 208-787-2221 pg 57 of effective real estate professionals can be reached any time 866- PINEDALE, WYOMING WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA 732-1801 pg 2 THE BARN DOOR Unique furnishings, antiques, gifts & accessories ALL YELLOWSTONE SPORTS Backcountry rides in National forest JAKE KILGROW, ASSOCIATE BROKER-TETON VILLAGE REALTY- for the home. Don’t miss this special diamond in the rough. 31 South or Yellowstone National Park. Great family outing. We are a "On Top of Jackson Hole." Offices located in the town of Jackson Sublette Av. 307-367-3667, barndoordesign.com pg 63 Yellowstone authorized park concession. 800-548-9551 pg 59 and Teton Village. [email protected] TETON VALLEY-VICTOR/DRIGGS, IDAHO OUTDOOR SHOPS www.tetonvillagerealty.com 307-413-2822 PG 4 VICTOR EMPORIUM Hats, gifts, T-shirts, ice cream, World Famous CODY, WYOMING SKATEBOARDS & SKIS – CUSTOM MADE Huckleberry Shakes, & more. Something for every member of the family, even the dog! Downtown Victor. 208-787-2221 pg 57 SIERRA TRADING POST OUTLET STORE Cody’s best selection of JACKSON, WYOMING outdoor clothing and equipment. The North Face, Carhartt, Kelty, WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA Vasque, Marmot, Pearl Izumi, Lowe Alpine. Just south of the Buffalo IGNEOUS Custom made skateboards, snowboards & skis, hand- crafted in Jackson Hole, 307-734-8788, www.igneousskis.com pg 41 MOOSE MARKETPLACE Come in and browse our large selection of Bill Historical Center, 1402 8th Street, 307-578-5802 pg 66 gifts, wildlife sculptures, Montana art, souvenirs, jewelry, home DUBOIS, WYOMING decor, rocks, t-shirts, candles, Montana made items & more. WILDLIFE & PHOTO SAFARIS –TOURS Something for almost everyone. 107 Canyon St 406-646-7831 pg 59 WHISKEY MOUNTAIN TACKLE We are a full sporting goods store that offers the area’s largest selection of flies, topo maps, hunting MUSEUMS, & INTERPRETIVE CENTERS GOLF–MINI & FRISBEE–ALPINE SLIDE & camping gear. Licenses & ATV permits also. 307-455-2587 pg 67 DUBOIS, WYOMING WIND RIVER GEAR Find books, maps, trekking poles, tents, sleep- GRAND TARGHEE, WYOMING ing bags, camp gear, canoes, kayaks, technical clothing, footware, NATIONAL BIGHORN SHEEP INTERPRETIVE CENTER Enjoyable & GRAND TARGHEE RESORT 18-hole disk golf course. 1-800- GPS, compasses, rain gear, casual wear, optics, even canine gear for educational experience."Sheep Mountain,"photos & hands-on TARGHEE pg 57 your best friend. ....where outdoor adventures begin. pg 67 exhibits draw visitors into the majestic range & habits of these mag- JACKSON & TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING JACKSON & TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING nificent animals. Gift shop. 9am-8pm daily. 307-455-3429 pg 11 JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING ALPINE MINI-GOLF A beautifully landscaped 18-hole miniature golf CLOUDVEIL MOUNTAIN WORKS Our Flagship store features the course with waterfalls, ponds & Teton views. Located next to the Alpine full range of our innovative outdoor apparel, all designed & tested RIVER RUNNERS MUSEUM Historic boats, rafts, artifacts & replicas Slide at Snow King Resort. Open 10am daily. 307-733-7680 pg 47 in our hometown of Jackson. From versatile soft shells to authentic take visitors into another era, when river running was a courageous casual styles, quality without compromise. 120 W Pearl, & risky means of travel. In the Mad River Boat Trips “Wedge,” 1255 THE ALPINE SLIDE AT SNOW KING RESORT All ages, go at your www.cloudveil.com 739-3930 PG 17 S Hwy 89, Jackson 307-733-6203 pg 27 own speed down a 2500-foot slide. Group rates. Daily from 10am. HOBACK SPORTS Jackson’s largest & complete bike & outdoor At the yellow & blue chairlift above the Snow King Resort Hotel. WILDLIFE EXPEDITIONS OF TETON SCIENCE SCHOOL provides year- shop. Staffed by professionals who can rent, repair, fit & accessorize. 307-733-5200 pg 47 round wildlife viewing & natural history interpretation to anyone inter- Hiking & running shoes and accessories. 520 West Broadway-#1. 307- ested in close-up, ethical viewing of Greater Yellowstone’s wild animals in 9-HOLE FRISBEE GOLF Course starts at Jackson Hole Sports in Teton 733-5335 pg 23 their natural habitat. www.wildlifeexpeditions.org 888-945-3567, 307- Village. Course is free, maps, info and discs available in the shop. JACK DENNIS SPORTS Celebrating our 40th Anniversary! Locally 733-2623 pg 11 307-739-2687 pg 52 owned and operated. Extensive selection of brand name products PINEDALE, WYOMING for any outdoor pursuit. Hand-crafted flies, & superior service. On GONDOLA–CHAIRLIFTS—PARAGLIDING the Square in Jackson, 307-733-3270, the Alpenhof in Teton Village 72st ANNUAL GREEN RIVER RENDEZVOUS PAGEANT This hour- GRAND TARGHEE, WYOMING 307-733-6838. www.jackdennis.com pg 35 long re-enactment relives the early mountain man & Indian history of the area. “Meet Me on the Green!” Sunday, July 13, 1pm at the JACKSON HOLE SPORTS In the Bridger Center, Teton Village, is GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons, where Pinedale Rodeo Grounds. 307-367-2242. pg 63 your one-stop shop for an active summer outing. Sportswear, shoes, all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Take a scenic chairlift to the MUSEUM OF THE MOUNTAIN MAN Exhibits on fur trade, summit, experience geocache treasure hunting or horseback riding accessories & Resort wear for the entire family. Mountain bike Mountain Men, Plains Indians and Western exploration. Open daily in our panoramic backcountry. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 57 rentals and lift tickets. 307-739-2687 pg 52 9am-5pm through September 30. Green River Rendezvous weekend JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING LEISURE SPORTS We Rent Adventure! Rafts, canoes, kayaks, duck- July 12-15, 2006. Toll free-877-686-6266 pg 62 ies, catarafts, drift boats, fly fishing equipment, camping gear, SUVs, JACKSON HOLE BRIDGER GONDOLA Incredible sightseeing & a and economy cars. Guided fishing trips available. Full outdoor retail WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA real mountain experience. Nothing gets you into the mountains like too.1075 S. Hwy 89, Jackson, 307-733-3040 pg 29 this. Ride 3,000’ above the valley to 9,095’ for spectacular views of GRIZZLY & WOLF DISCOVERY CENTER An exciting visit awaits the MERRELL For 25 years Merrell® has been providing outdoor enthu- Jackson Hole. On top enjoy a short hike. 307-739-2654 pg 52 entire family where you’ll see live grizzly bears & a pack of gray wolves. siasts with quality performance footwear for their active and after Daily activities include live bird-of-prey presentations, camping safely JH PARAGLIDING Tandem paragliding rides from the top of the sport pursuits. Available at Hoback Sports, Jackson Bootlegger, and demonstrations, films & special kids activities. 1-800-257-2570 pg 60 Bridger Gondola—the experience of a lifetime. Instruction available. Teton Village Sports. pg 5 YELLOWSTONE INTERPRETIVE TOURS Summer van tours, winter Reservations & rates in Café 6311 at the Bridger Center at the base RENDEZVOUS RIVER SPORTS Jackson’s paddle sport headquarters. snowcoach tours. Wildlife viewing, geyser watching, overnights of the Bridger Gondola, (307) 690-4948 pg 52 We have a full selection of top brand merchandise & offer guided available. Also guided snowmobile tours all in Yellowstone. SNOW KING SCENIC CHAIRLIFT Enjoy a view like no other of tours & lessons. 945 W. Broadway in the Sidewinders Building. 307- Authorized park concessionaires. 1-800-548-9551 pg 59 Jackson Hole & the Tetons from the top of Snow King Mountain. 733-2471 PG 29 Guided nature hikes & picnic area. 307-733-5200 pg 47 SNAKE RIVER KAYAK & CANOE Whitewater Rafting, canoe & WEDDINGS, CONVENTIONS, PARTIES TEEWINOT CHAIRLIFT In Teton Village ride the chairlift with your kayak instruction. Fly-fishing instruction & guided fishing trips. Full GRAND TARGHEE, WYOMING bike or on foot to access miles of single track for all types of riders service paddle sports specialty shop. snakeriverkayak.com 307-733- and hiking trails into Grand Teton NP. Tickets & bike rentals at JH 9999 pg 29 GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons where Sports in the Bridger Center, at the base of the lift. Free lift ticket if TETON MOUNTAINEERING Jackson's backcountry shop. DMM, all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 57 you rent from a bike from JH Sports. 307-739-2687 pg 52 Black Diamond, Metolius, Petzl. The North Face, Patagonia, JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING Arc'teryc, Mountain Hardwear, Prana, Lole, Carve Desgin. Rental GUIDES & OUTFITTERS Camping Gear available! Tents, packs, sleeping bags and sleeping JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT Full service resort in Teton FISHING–HORSEBACK RIDING–HUNTING pads.170 North Cache, Jackson 733-3595 pg 39 Village. Hotels, restaurants, lounges, recreation. 307-733-2292 pg 52 DUBOIS, WYOMING TETON VILLAGE SPORTS Specializing in mountain recreation NOTEWORTHY MUSIC AGENCY Provides entertainment for all equipment including apparel & shoes for hiking, biking, fishing & types of occasions. Call Mike Calabrese, 307-733-5459 pg 56 THUNDER MOUNTAIN OUTFITTERS 3-6 day horse-pack, fishing, frisbee golf, not to mention it’s winter all summer long for skiers & SNOW KING RESORT Groups of 10-900. Board meetings to moun- covered wagon & hunting trips into the Absaroka & Wind River snowboarders. Rentals & repairs. 307-733-2181 pg 21 tain-top bar-b-ques. 307-733-5200 pg 47 Mountains. 800-661-4928 or 307-455-2225 WESTBANK ANGLERS Jackson Hole’s fly fishing experts. Most com- PINEDALE, WYOMING WHISKEY MOUNTAIN TACKLE We are a full sporting goods store plete selection of flies & tackle available. Mail order & website cat- that offers the area’s largest selection of flies, topo maps, hunting alogues. Retail store on the Teton Village Road, just North of the SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE MountainManCountry.com pg 62 & camping gear. Licenses & ATV permits also. 307-455-2587 pg 67 Aspens. 307-733-6483 or 800-922-3474 pg 35 WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA GRAND TARGHEE, WYOMING TETON VALLEY-DRIGGS/VICTOR, IDAHO DAYS INN 116 rooms downtown West Yellowstone, only 3 blocks GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons, where PEAKED SPORTS Located in scenic Teton Valley, Idaho, our knowl- from Yellowstone NP, 301 Madison Avenue, 1-800-548-9551 pg 59 www.focusproductions. com 2008 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 69 • CODY • DUBOIS • JACKSON HOLE • RED LODGE • MAMMOTH • GARDINER • PINEDALE • WYOMING • IDAHO • MONTANA • YELLOWSTONE • DUNRAVEN • WASHBURN • SNAKE RIVER GROS VENTRE TOGWOTEE PASS • GRAND TETONS • OLD FAITHFUL BRIDGER • PAHASKA • BUFFALO BILL • SHOSHONE NEZ PERCE HOBACK

To Three To Bozeman To Livingston Forks Red To Billings To Billings Big Sky Y MONTANA Ennis e Lodge 15 l 89 CUSTER r lo e v w Granite Pk. 12,799 ft. NATIONAL 308 i ▲ R 39 s k t Highest Point In Montana. e k o FOREST re r 41 n C 212 72 o 191 e k F R c s GALLATIN o k r G iv R a Gardiner la l e Cooke City la North Entrance Northeast Entrance C NATIONAL ti r n B R e a r t o Beartooth Pass iv Tower o t h FOREST e Mammoth M 10,940 r o u Hot Springs Junction 18 n t 287 18 29 a i n 31 50 s 22 Ch ief J ose ph Hebgen 21 Sc iso en ad n 19 Yellowstone ic M R Lake H 120 iv i e gh r Sunlight Basin w 8 National Park ay 18 r Norris e v 296 i 26 To Powell 87 R Canyon Y 13 West Yellowstone n e o 12 l Lam k a M b l o o West Entrance o arR r u b a i wsto iver s n t G 14 b a 14 A 14 n A i n 17 Henrys e s 16 R i Lake v Madison e Fishing r r Junction e Bridge v i GALLATIN • WIND RIVER • ABSAROKA •WAPITI VALLEY VALLEY •WAPITI ABSAROKA RIVER • WIND • GALLATIN 42 R e l 27 Cody 14 o 16 Bridge Lake 52 h Pahaske Tepee 16 e 14 r y i Bay piti Valle 20 F 21 16 a

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IDAHO iv W n G yo er Gannett Pk. MEETEESE, WYOMING 23 Can 352 i n ▲ iver d 13,804 ft. 307-868-2423 Palisades Res. ake R 189 R PINEDALE, WYOMING Sn i Highest Point Alpine Junction 191 v In Wyoming 307-367-2242 BRIDGER-TETON e 53 New Fork Lakes r POWELL, WYOMING M 307-754-3494 CARIBOU NATIONAL FOREST o RED LODGE, MONTANA 33 Fremont u NATIONAL G Willow Lake Lake n 406-446-1718 r t e WYOMING TETON VALLEY/DRIGGS, IDAHO a FOREST Star Valley y 89 s Soda Lake White Pine i n 208-354-2500 R Ski Area & i Resort s WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA v e 406-646-7701 r Half Moon Lake WIND RIVER VISITORS COUNCIL 11 Burnt 189 Pinedale Lake 800-645-6233 Boulder Lake YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK Afton 191 307-344-7381 T o Big Piney & Evanston Map design by Bob Woodall T o Evanston Copyright 2008-Focus Productions T o Rock Springs

• MADISON MORAN FIREHOLE GIBBON TEEWINOT • LODGE ROOSEVELT • SNOW WASHBURN • LAKE JENNY • LEIGH LAKE • NORRIS • KING • HAYDEN VALLEY • MOOSE • WILSON • TETON VILLAGE • DRIGGS • VICTOR • GRAND TARGHEE • BEARTOOTH • COOKE CITY •

70 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2008 www.focusproductions. com Jackson’s Picture Place Since 1960

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• Tripods Professional Film Processing CACHE PEARL 60 S. Cache Street, Jackson, WY 83001 ON THE WEST SIDE OF THE SQUARE 733-3279 JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING LARGE GROUPS AND PARTIES ARE WELCOME www.cadillac-grille.com