MOUNTAINMOUNTAIN COUNTRY COUNTRY Summer Guide to the Tetons & Yellowstone 2007

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Women’s Siren Ventilator Women’s-specific technology and styling for outdoor performance. Hoback Sports Jackson Bootlegger Teton Village Sports Siren selection varies by store. 520 W. Broadway Ave. 36 E. Broadway on the Square Teton Village 307.733.5335 307.733.6207 307.733.2181 Look for Merrell Apparel Fall 2007 EExplorexplore On the Cover: Bob Woodall photos: Mike Calabrese fishing ; JH Rodeo; Snake River Canyon MOUNTAIN COUNTRY white water. Wade McKoy pho- tos: native cutthroat ; Jason Tattersall bicycling

Contents Photos: Clockwise from top left: white-water rafting the Snake; captive grizzly bear; calf roping at the rodeo; Western swing on the dance floor; mountain biking single- track; catching and releasing a

Publishers: Bob Woodall & Wade McKoy, Focus Productions, Inc. (FPI) Editors: Mike Calabrese, Wade McKoy, Bob Woodall Art Direction & Ad Design: Janet Melvin Advertising Sales: & PINEDALE Kyli Fox, 307-733-6995 Photos: Wade McKoy, Bob Woodall, Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center Grizzly and Wolf Bob Woodall, McKoy, Photos: Wade

WEST YELLOWSTONE NATURE RECREATION Janet Melvin, 406-556-8655 CODY & DUBOIS 8 America’s National Parks 16 Hiking Bob Woodall, 307-733-6995 11 Issues of the Greater Yellowstone 18 Mountain Biking 14 Comfort & Safety in the Outdoors 21 Community Pathways Copyright 2007 by FPI (Focus Productions, Inc)., P.O. Box 54 Yellowstone IMAX Theater 22 Climbing 1930, Jackson, 54 Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center 24 Rafting the Snake River 83001. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be 26 Kayaking Area Waters reproduced in any form with- out written permission from TOWNS 29 Regional Boating Info. the publishers. 40 Jackson 30 Fishing Mountain Country is a free vis- 44 Teton Village 36 Rodeos itors guide published annually in May and distributed all sum- 48 Cody 39 Horseback Riding mer at hundreds of locations 52 West Yellowstone 43 Snow King Resort throughout Jackson Hole, Cody, and other regional com- 55 Pinedale 44 Jackson Hole Resort munities, and at information 58 Dubois centers throughout the region. To receive a copy in the mail, 59 Victor & Driggs send $5 to Mountain Country, MAPS & P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, Wyoming 83001.

MUSEUMS DIRECTORIES Our Web site 50 Buffalo Bill Historical Center 60 Business Directory focusproductions.com 57 Museum of the Mountain Man 62 Greater Yellowstone Map displays this magazine as well as the Jackson Hole Dining Guide and our winter travelers’ guide, the Jackson Hole Skier. ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆

LOCATED ON ◆ ◆ THE NORTH SIDE OF THE TOWN SQUARE JACKSON, WYOMING jhclothiers.com ◆ ◆ 307-733-7211 ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆ www.focusproductions. com 2007 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 7 America’s National Parks Conserved unimpaired for the enjoyment of this and future generations by Bert Raynes Photos by Henry Holdsworth— Wild by Nature Gallery

The first action by a nation to set aside some publicly held land to satisfy man’s Unforeseen obstacles must be overcome. inner needs and emotions—those needs and feelings you can satisfy if you will let Perhaps the first challenge in Yellowstone National Park was poaching. For in Yellowstone’s quiet off-road treasures do so—came during America’s savage Civil addition to the geysers, the hot springs, the falls, the forests and lakes, and the Yellow War. In 1864 Congress granted the Yosemite Valley to the State of California,with this Stone itself, were ample numbers of large animals, both prey and predator. It very explicit proviso: “…that the premises shall be held for public use, resort, and recre- soon became apparent that market-hunting slaughter had to be prohibited, and was Tation; shall be held inalienable for all times.” in 1883. By 1894, protection for large game animals within Yellowstone was legislat- Land destined never to be exploited for the benefit of the few, but held in public ed, even as the then-new idea of range management was emerging. And in 1903 ownership to benefit all! Thus began an entirely new public-land policy, coming President Theodore Roosevelt recognized that the killing off of predators—in this when this nation was at risk and largely still unexplored and unknown. Coming at a instance mountain lions—has a deleterious effect upon their prey (elk and deer) and time of war, these far-seeing and far-reaching actions to preserve were, indeed, ordered it stopped. (Wolves, however, were exterminated in the park and were only remarkable. just, in 1995, reintroduced, restoring that essential component of wild creatures Just eight years later, in 1872, Congress authorized Yellowstone National Park, the belonging there.) first national park in the country, and the first in the world. It’s sometimes said that Eventually, in 1916, Congress established the , whose pur- the national park idea is the “best idea the United States of America ever had.”But pose and management philosophy are worth being reminded of: even great original concepts often must be refined, improved, and administered. “The Service thus established shall promote and regulate the use of Federal areas 8 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2007 Bob Woodall

Photos, clockwise from top left: Morning light illuminates the and a field of butter and eggs wild- flowers; a bison herd fords the Yellowstone River; a bull moose rests; a great grey owl communicates with its young; a cow elk walks with several of the herd’s calves; a 45-minute time expo- sure creates star trails at Old Faithful geyser; an osprey prepares to launch.

The park is always changing, albeit within those directives. It responds to fires, droughts, climate change, and to varying views on how best to manage facilities and its animals and . Need I mention political pressures? Them too.

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D04X Camera • 10.2 megapixels for beautiful prints • Rechargeable lithium-ion battery for up to 520 images on a single charge A bison bull (above) nuzzles a younger counterpart; a river otter cruises the bank (below). • Instant 0.18-second start-up and contin- known as parks, monuments, and restorations here- squirrel, bald eagle to trout—some 60 animal species uous shooting at 3 frames per second inafter specified by such means and measures as con- and a possible bird list of over 300 species.Not to men- • Maximum 1/4,000-second shutter speed form to the fundamental purpose of said parks, monu- tion insects and allied species, from butterflies to spi- freezes action ments and reservations, which purpose is to conserve ders, moths to mosquitoes. And ticks. Wildlife going • In-camera image retouching, including In-Camera Red-Eye Fix,™ Image the scenery and the natural and historic objects and about their lives pretty much as they have done for Crop, D-Lighting, Small Picture the wildlife therein and to provide for the enjoyment of thousands of years. for easy e-mailing of the same in such manner and by such means as will Do take time to absorb the scenery,the endless vis- pictures, and more leave them unimpaired for the enjoyment of future tas and the small scenes. Fill your eyes and mind with generations.” the shining mountains, the snow-capped peaks, the As you visit Yellowstone National Park, play of light and distance in the forests, the clarity of National Park, the six national forests, wildlife refuges, the waters, the expanse of sky. Or the drops of rain and the private lands surrounding it, comprising what gathering on the leaves and dripping off. Fair days or 82ED has become known as the Greater Yellowstone storms. Scope Ecosystem (GYE), you will experience today’s snap- And give thanks for that “best idea.” shot. Nature is dynamic. The park is always changing, Bert Raynes writes a weekly column in the Jackson • 100% Waterproof/Fogproof albeit within those directives. It responds to fires, Hole News & Guide. He has written four publications • High optics and multicoating droughts, climate change, and to varying views on how covering the birds and animals of Grand Teton and technology best to manage facilities and its animals and fish. Need Yellowstone national parks. His two most recent • Super high-resolution lenses I mention political pressures? Them too. books, Valley So Sweet and Curmudgeon Chronicles, • Extra-low dispersion glass for the Today, thanks largely to the wisdom and foresight are receiving well-deserved, wide acclaim. ultimate in resolution of all those who established the parks and the National • Includes Vue-Thru case Park System and those who have administered through • Sliding sunshade a learning process since 1872,there remains a place set • All metal construction apart for man and for the beasts. Opportunity for you, and habitat for them.Your chance to see herds of bison in scenes reminiscent of what early denizens and then explorers witnessed in the 1800s. What Lewis and TOWN SQUARE Clarke documented, although they never came closer ­ North 307-733-3831 than about 100 miles of what is now Yellowstone BROADWAY 60 S. Cache Street National Park.Perhaps you will spot a pack of wolves in % Jackson, WY 83001 pursuit of some prey,or a grizzly bear digging for some delicacy. Bald eagles, trumpeter swans, a pair of sand

CACHE Open Daily PEARL hill cranes. Otters with a trout. What you are seeing and experiencing in your visit Authorized Dealer will look deceptively unchanged and unchanging. It distinctly is not. As Henry David Thoreau noted, decades before Yellowstone National Park was created, “All nature is a new impression every instant.” What At the heart of the image you are seeing actually is a success story,somewhat like 25-year limited warranty included on all Nikon binoculars Franklin’s observation about our Republic: “If you can All Nikon products include Nikon Inc. USA limited warranty. ©2007 Nikon Inc. keep it.” www.nikondigital.com Wildlife remains in abundance,from the wolf to the bison, black and grizzly bear to elk, coyote to ground 10 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2007 Bugs,Bugs, Bears, and the Big Bang By Lauren M. Whaley

A 34-year study published in Science last summer found that years with early snowmelt (read: longer and drier summers) yielded five times as many wildfires as years with late snowmelt. A warming planet and management deci- sions bear down on recovering populations of endangered species and their habitat. It’s hard not to be amazed by the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. Encompassing over 18 million acres and bordering three states,the GYE tract includes two national parks,portions of six national forests, three national wildlife refuges, and private lands. Grizzly bears fell asleep under federal This summer, you may drive your car through Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks, awestruck by the boil- protection and woke up without it for ing geysers,the regal wildlife,and the vast wilderness—all of it in one place.You’ll tick off the classics: Inspiration Point, the first time since the 1970s. The fed- Old Faithful,the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone.You may have already visited the brand spanking new $18 million Grand eral government announced March 22 Teton Discovery and Visitor Center in Grand Teton park, scheduled to open in mid-August. Clearly, managing these that the grizzly bear in and around Yellowstone National Park would be national gems is no small task—and not without its problems. But it’s beyond the boiling mud pots where the stickiest removed from the Endangered issues truly simmer. Some of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem’s most pressing environmental issues lie beneath the Species List. surface, literally and figuratively. GRIZZLY BEARS Populations could be hurt by things like road build- from Wyoming managers so the Cowboy State can take When they awoke from hibernating near Yellowstone ing, logging, and oil and gas development on the public over too. thisI year, grizzly bears wiped the sleep from their eyes lands currently roamed by grizzlies, the group argues, Wolf reintroduction began in 1995, when the federal and, unbeknownst to them, looked out on a changed necessitating protection on other lands. Earthjustice government released 14 wolves in Yellowstone National landscape. also worries about how possible grizzly hunts in the Park. Officials now estimate that 1,243 wolves inhabit They fell asleep under federal protection and woke three states will affect overall numbers. Wyoming, Montana, and Idaho, four times more than up without it for the first time since the 1970s. The fed- Earthjustice attorney Doug Honnold says that the original recovery goal. eral government announced March 22 that the grizzly despite a population with numbers high enough to delist Wolf-delisting news has frightened, disgusted, and bear in and around Yellowstone National Park would be them,grizzly bears are still at risk,especially in an age of angered many people on an issue even more controver- removed from the Endangered Species List. increasing climate change. sial than grizzly delisting. Some argue that surging wolf The area had an estimated 136 to 312 grizzlies in “Just like polar bears, grizzly bears are threatened by numbers hurt livestock and wild game, like elk. That ire 1975,when the iconic species was first placed on the list, global warming,” he argues in an Earthjustice release. has prodded some opponents to proclaim it on their and now has over 500, a number high enough to yield “They live in a world of shrinking habitat due to warming bumpers with stickers like “Save 100 Elk: Kill a Wolf” the management reigns to the Fish and Wildlife depart- weather. The Fish and Wildlife Service didn’t see global and “Wyoming Wolves: Smoke a Pack a Day.” ments of Montana, Idaho, and Wyoming. warming coming and has no game plan for the loss of Indeed,at the end of March,the Wyoming Game and “The grizzly’s remarkable comeback is the result of whitebark pines and the related harm to grizzlies. Fish Department may have fueled these sentiments years of intensive cooperative recovery efforts between …We’re disappointed that federal wildlife managers have through a study that hinted at a correlation between federal and state agencies, conservation groups, and abdicated their responsibility to protect this magnificent declining elk populations and the presence of wolves. individuals,” Deputy Interior Secretary Lynn Scarlett animal, and we will continue to fight for their survival.” “We have seen a downward trend in many of says.“There is simply no way to overstate what an amaz- Wyoming’s elk herds over this 26-year period,” says ing accomplishment this is.” WOLVES Wyoming Game and Fish Department’s Jay Lawson in a Critics contend that the “accomplishment” comes at As grizzlies blinked in the sunshine this spring,their statement.“That trend is likely due to long-term drought a price. The Natural Resources Defense Council says it canine counterparts may have slunk into the shadows as and other habitat-related factors.But in half of the herds plans to legally stall the delisting, and the nonprofit they,too,were recently removed from “the list.”The fed- occupied by wolves,we saw a significantly greater rate of environmental law firm Earthjustice asserts a host of eral government handed over management of the grey decline after wolves were established compared to herds reasons for keeping the bears under federal protection. wolf to Idaho and Montana and is still awaiting a plan without wolves. We can’t attribute that increased rate of Photos: Bob Woodall (trees); Henry Holdsworth (bears, bison, otter) Photos: Bob Woodall www.focusproductions. com 2007 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 11 of the most “critical food sources”for our recently delist- FIRE ed grizzly bear. The trees’ fate may affect, if not outright Just as we get used to enjoying warmer springs, determine, the bears’ fate. longer summers, and milder winters, some scientists “Mountain pine beetles have not been a major argue that warmer temperatures may be increasing the threat to whitebark pine survival; the high-elevation duration and intensity of the wildfire season. climate has been their defense, as it historically has A 34-year study published in Science last summer been too cold for long-term survival of outbreak beetle found that years with early snowmelt (read: longer and populations,” writes Logan, who studied the issue for drier summers) had five times as many wildfires as 20 years. “Unfortunately, things have dramatically years with late snowmelt. changed in response to climate warming that began in “The fires in Yellowstone Park in 1988 seemed to the mid 1970s.” inaugurate this new era of major wildfires in the western Whitebark pines across the country are suffering United States” writes author Anthony Westerling. “The from the beetle as well as white pine blister rust. The fires lasted more than 3 months, burning 600,000 two-pronged attack leaves the tree’s continued survival hectares of forest, and—despite the investment of $120 in question. million and deployment of 25,000 firefighters—were The New York Times reports that in Yellowstone only extinguished when snow began to fall in mid- National Park, for example, an estimated 18,000 acres of September.” whitebark pines were dead by the end of 2004. That’s Westerling and his fellow authors go on to say that nine percent of its extent. Yellowstone fires exemplify a common wildfire statistic: And it’s not just whitebark pine that’s suffering. less than five percent of all wildfires account for more Beetles of several varieties are boring into the bark of than 95 percent of the area burned. pines across the Rockies, laying eggs and having their This year’s winter in Jackson Hole and surrounding “Mountain pine beetles have not been a offspring feed on the inner bark of the tree. major threat to whitebark pine survival; the areas wasn’t what skiers would call an “epic snow year.” Between the mountain pine beetle, engraver beetle, Far from it,in fact.Let’s hope the scant snow was enough high-elevation climate has been their the spruce beetle, and the western pine beetle, Rocky defense, as it historically has been too cold to keep Yellowstone forest fires from continuing a trend Mountain pines are becoming increasingly vulnerable. for long-term survival of outbreak beetle that started nearly 20 years ago. The beetles eat the inside of the tree,cutting off and dis- populations. Unfortunately, things have dra- rupting water flow within the tree. matically changed in response to climate YELLOWSTONE CALDERA The Bridger-Teton and Shoshone national forests, warming that began in the mid 1970s.” right in our backyard, suffer from the spruce beetle, If all these issues make your head spin, don’t worry. which killed 220,000 acres of spruce forest in Utah. The volcanic hot spot under Yellowstone could explode decline to any factor other than wolves.” Then there’s the Douglas fir bark beetle, which pillaged at any minute, putting an end to management deci- As the wolf debate rages on in newspapers,blogs,let- about 50,000 Doug firs in two years in the North Fork sions—and all of us. ters,conferences,and coffee shops,states prepare to Valley in Shoshone. The 30-mile-by-45-mile volcanic caldera under our assume control. Wildlife managers say it will take until The Associated Press reports that beetles killed 1.4 beloved national park is movin’and shakin,’but not real- the end of the year for full delisting. million acres of forest in 12 Western states in 1994 and ly enough to cause genuine worry of explosion, just Rodger Schlickeisen, Defenders of Wildlife presi- 8.6 million in 2004. enough to get our attention. dent, says state management plans in Wyoming and This summer, look on Avalanche Ridge near Idaho are “geared toward wolf eradication, not wolf con- Yellowstone’s east gate. The rust-red-colored trees are Grand Prismatic Spring is heated by the same servation.” impossible to ignore,standing out like lesions against magmatic engine that powers all the park’s hot “Idaho’s governor has publicly announced he wants a backdrop of dark green, healthy counterparts. springs, geysers, fumaroles, and mudpots. to kill more than 80 percent of the state’s wolves, and the And even these supposedly healthy trees may state has already begun planning large-scale wolf eradi- already be infested. If you happen to get close cation efforts through hunting and aerial gunning,” (they’re not contagious to humans), you may Schlickeisen notes in a written statement. “Wyoming’s notice sawdust on the ground surrounding the plan would allow 16 out of the existing 23 packs of the trees from beetles boring into the bark or blisters wolves in the state to be killed on sight.To accomplish of pitch on the infested trees’ trunks. This is the this goal, the state would authorize poisoning, trapping only defense the trees have against fending off the and shooting on 90 percent of the wolf’s current home boring beetles. And, in drought years—like 2007, range outside the national parks.” perhaps—the trees have a harder time producing The governor of Wyoming, a state still without plan, this defense. asked in January “whether any packs outside Debate continues between the timber industry, Yellowstone in Wyoming are even necessary.” which has recommended logging infested trees to remove disease and promote new growth, and con- WARMING AND servationists, who think infested trees can con- THE ECOSYSTEM tribute nutrients back into the soil once they die and You may not see a grizzly or wolf or even one of their fall to the ground. Still others think the beetles are prints this summer, but you will definitely notice patch- doing a fine job at naturally culling trees. es of pines that look like they just stepped off the plane Scientists suggest that bark beetle population from September or October, their needles red, orange, levels can increase in fire-injured trees, like the and brown—but in June. ones damaged, but not killed, in the 1988 The culprit? Bark beetles. Yellowstone fires. Dr. Jesse Logan, retired Forest Service biologist, says And some argue that the combination of high warming temperatures have prompted bark beetles to beetle infestation and paucity of hydration are an move to higher elevations, where they have started to open invitation for fire to smoke the already-vulner- infest whitebark pine.The seeds of this pine tree are one able pines. Photos: Bob Woodall (two); Henry Holdsworth (wolves) Photos: Bob Woodall 12 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2007 “Idaho’s governor has publicly A 17-year-long University of demands respect and deserves announced he wants to kill more Come Explore the World of the Utah study published in early than 80 percent of the state’s some nurturing. March found that the power of wolves, and the state has already With its awe-inspiring Rocky Mountain Bighorn Sheep the Yellowstone “hotspot” is begun planning large-scale wolf geothermal system, abundant much greater than previously eradication efforts through hunt- wildlife, cascading waterfalls, thought. ing and aerial gunning.” and petrified trees, the ecosys- Though it can’t be felt, tem holds some of the coun- Ye l l owston e i s a c t u a l ly sl i d i ng try’s last wild treasures. downhill toward the southwest The GYE has also spawned at a rate of one-sixth of an inch other volatile issues, like those a year. And over the 17 years connected to the three rivers’ between 1987 and 2004, the headwaters that begin in the Jackson Hole valley moved ecosystem—the Yellowstone, upward 1.7 inches and westward one-quarter of an inch! the Snake, and the Green—or the fate of bison that “The textbook model for a normal fault is not what’s wander out of the park’s boundaries in winter. And happening at the Teton fault,” says Robert Smith, regional anglers are all too aware of the Yellowstone University of Utah geophysics professor. “The moun- Cutthroat’s breathtaking decline in and around park tains are going down relative to the valley going up. waters. That decline was caused in part because Photo: Michael P.Flaherty That’s a total surprise.” humans introduced predatory, non-native fish into at the Smith says the rate is unprecedented. regional waters. NATIONAL BIGHORN SHEEP “We think it’s a combination of magma [molten Politics aside, many argue we have a responsibility INTERPRETIVE CENTER rock] being intruded under the caldera and hot water to care for the ecosystem, to preserve it and, most Exhibits • Tours • Life-Sized Dioramas released from the magma being pressurized because it’s importantly, to set an example for other threatened An enjoyable and educational trapped,”he says.“I don’t believe this is evidence for an ecosystems around the world. experience for everyone. impending volcanic eruption. But it would be prudent Yellowstone is the world’s first national park. It "Sheep Mountain," photos & hands-on to keep monitoring the volcano.” seems only fair, patriotic even, that its environmental exhibits draw visitors into the majestic range & habitats of these issues be given first priority, that its lands be preserved magnificent animals. Regardless of one’s feelings about wildlife manage- for the enjoyment of many generations to come. Unique Gift Shop ment or volcanic eruptions, most people agree that the Besides writing full time from her home office's Summer Hours: 9am-8pm daily nation’s first national park—now 135 years old—and antique drafting table, Lauren M. Whaley delights in 307-455-3429 its surrounding lands should be preserved. The Greater jumping into mountain lakes,climbing rock,and danc- Yellowstone Ecosystem, often described as one of the ing in town after a day of wilderness adventure. 907 W. Ramshorn • Dubois, WY largest intact temperate-zone ecosystems on earth, www.bighorn.org Wildlife Expeditionsmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

Wildlife Discovery Expedition A fascinating full-day among the animals with an expert wildlife biologist. Sunrise and Sunset Expeditions A family-friendly four-hour introduction to western wildlife and their spectacular habitat. Old Faithful Expedition Explore the wildlife, scenery WILDLIFE EXPEDITIONS and history of Yellowstone PO Box 7580 • Jackson WY 83002 National Park. 1.888.945.3567 Multi-Day Expeditions www.wildlifeexpeditions.org Wolves and Bears Expeditions Great Parks Expeditions 307.733.2623 Winter Wolves of Yellowstone Year-round expeditions Customized and private trips also!

www.focusproductions. com 2007 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 13 When Good Times Go Bad Ounces of preparation, pounds of cure by David Swift

elcome to our lovely, deep, high, and peril-rich mountains. WPerhaps you gaze at their majesty, raring to become intimate with that which remains well hidden from roadside turnouts. Or perhaps you don’t feel much at all— just an urge to wander in the woods, to see what the big deal is. No matter how tuned-in or oblivious you feel, you may also have an urge to “feel free,” to shun encumbrances. Just remember this: they shoot those SUV commercials with an enormous crew, plus the catering van, cropped out of the money shot. In real life you’ll want to hedge against the plethora of possibilities that often precede misadventure. In order of probability, your bad day will be due to weather, getting lost, crum- my planning, overconfidence, bad luck, and/or wildlife. Weather, by far, leads to most epics simply because being wet quickly com- plicates matters. Wetness causes rapid loss of body heat, disorientation, falls, and lost time, which in turn leads to early darkness. Hiking on the west side of the Tetons, where you won’t see clouds until they’re literally on top of you, is a classic trap. Leave your car under all-blue skies, scram- ble to a lofty perch by lunchtime, unwrap your PB&J, gaze around—and you’re under a dark and heavy canopy of impend- ing wetness. Happens all the time.

Mountain-country cloudbursts, while inspiring, can turn deadly in an instant; (above right) anglers, too, should watch the weather as well as the water. 14 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2007 Come in and see what’s new! So much more than Big Macs® and world famous fries.

Premium Chicken Sandwiches featuring Ranch BLT, Club, & Classic ® One may quibble at which point a convenience every three years. Heavy-duty plastic trash bags weigh Chicken Selects • Snack Wraps becomes a necessity but things are necessary in rough- nada, take no space, and separate dry things from Fruit&Walnut Salad Fruit&Yogurt Parfait ly this order: moisture. Premium Salads Water. Sip water constantly. You’re probably not Mobile phone. Don’t fall for those purity-of- Bacon Ranch, Asian, & Caesar accustomed to our higher altitudes, so your heart and backcountry sentiments. Carry it but turn it off. In an (with Newman’s Own® Dressings) lungs are working overtime. Constant hydration keeps emergency it probably won’t work. Scramble to a high- McGriddles®, Bagels, Platters you cooler in heat and warmer in cold. If you’re not er spot, preferably a ridge with line-of-sight into the Cinnamon Melts for Breakfast peeing a bit more than usual, you’re not drinking valley.Just don’t call because someone’s tired.Expect to enough water. be invoiced for a rescue. Open & serving your favorites In case you’re wondering if they are utilitarian or 5:00 am to midnight everyday merely fashionable, Camelbacks and similar water Watch out for: packs have become a standard feature amongst serious Drive-thru open 24 Hours roamers. For a day-trip or longer, tote one of those Changeable terrain. Somewhere up the trail Free Wi-Fi with purchase handy, light water filters. you may enter a parallel dimension where an ice axe is 1110 Broadway @ Hwy 22 Food. Splurge,taking more than you need. essential. Welcome to mountaineering. Jackson Hole, WY • 307-733-7444 Make it real food. Mountaineering requires training in the Layers. Minimally, carry a InIn orderorder ofof use of this elegant and sharp stick, which is often accessorized with windproof shell. Both a pile jack- probability, your shoe spikes, aka crampons.

et and a shell means you’ll enjoy URGENT CARE If you come across steep snow a long picnic on a breezy, bad day will be due to with no way to stick to it, turn exposed ridge. If the shell is weather, getting lost, around lest you court an injury of waterproof, your preparation is crummy planning, all-too-common an origin. all the more bombproof. Add a foam butt pad, hat, gloves, and overconfidence, bad Life gone wild. Deer and bottom layers and suddenly you’re luck,luck, and/orand/or elk usually have the common sense prepared for quite the ordeal. wildlife. to bolt well before you see them.Moose Space blanket. Yes, the tinfoil and bison don’t have such a huge personal space. They’ll pretend to ignore you, sucking look goes in and out of fashion, but come des- YOU’VE WAITED you in for a tighter shot. Hence the term “sucker.”Once peration time a space blanket can compensate for your they decide you are a threat, you are too close for any ALL YEAR FOR having forgotten, say, your jacket. retreat. Bison go from zero-to-your-spleen in scarcely THIS VACATION. Lighter. Fire good—but for desperate situations more than a nanosecond. With their hooves and WE’LL HELP YOU ENJOY IT. only.We hang wildfire perpetrators ‘round here. antlers, moose are preprogrammed to turn you into a Headlamp. Or at least a flashlight. The latest LED free-form sculpture. lamps are cheap, efficient, and nearly weightless. Bear confrontations forever spark disagreement on Knife. Extra points for it having a corkscrew. the best coping strategy; I won’t pretend I have the last word on that. Best not to get in that predicament in the Medical Illnesses Map. Plus compass. Trails around here are well first place. Make noise as you amble. Bears are not shy Wound Care/Minor Trauma marked, well worn. The moment a trail looks specious, about breaking and entering for food, either tents or calmly do a 180 and return to the spot where you Athletic Injuries cars. There’s no shortage of preventive techniques Allergy & Asthma Care stopped paying attention. available courtesy of park rangers. Unguents. Bug juice. Pepper spray for bears. And, finally, if you can manage to be attacked by a (Please don’t go looking to actually use it.) Sun block. wolf, be prepared to become the star of a nationwide Lipschmeer. media feeding frenzy. Miscellaneous. Sunglasses. Blister protection; if David Swift lives the idyllic life in Jackson Hole, 307.739.8999 you feel a bit of rubbing within the first mile of your except when he’s working as a photographer, writer, Urgent Care of Jackson Hole critic, or information-technology consultant. Smith’s Plaza hike, a blister is imminent. One hundred feet of 1/4- 1415 S Hwy 89 Jackson inch parachute cord—I carry it all the time, use it once No Appointment Necessary Photos: Bob Woodall (left); Wade McKoy (right) (left); Wade Photos: Bob Woodall Open 365 days

www.focusproductions. com 2007 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 15 S H Imo’s Deli TOK LUNCH & DINNER SELECTIONS Ready to Eat or Semi prepared MOUNTAIN • Sandwiches • Baked Goods • Daily Lunch Specials • Hot Soup & Chili Try these hikes for • Thin Crust Pizza a quick introduction • Wall Street Journal & New York Times to our wild lands • Fresh Meat & Fish Hiking •ATM Most Complete Deli by Rebecca Woods At summer’s peak, the beauty of Wyoming’s . & Grocery Store on wildflowers is simply unsurpassed. the Valley’s Westside Wildflower meadows.Jagged peaks.Postcard- riparian area frequented by wildlife and waterfowl.The 6 miles Before Ski Area In the Aspens perfect valleys. Peaceful lakeshores. Magnificent water- trail is an old dirt road that once led to a small ranch on Teton Village Rd falls and colorful canyons. All are part of the scenic occupied in the 1920s. Scattered timber, concrete foot- OPEN DAILY 7:30AM symphony performed each summer on the Greater ings, and cabin walls still poke through the sagebrush. 307-733-6202 WYellowstone Ecosystem’s 14 million acres of public land. The hike begins at a large pullout 1.2 miles from the The grand show is witnessed by the largest and most Moose end of the Moose-Wilson Road across from diverse wildlife population in the lower 48 states. Care park headquarters. to join them? First-class seats are found along the Literally dozens of wonderful trails outside Grand region’s 4,000 plus miles of trail. Terrain varies from Teton National Park await exploration.Ski Lake is a 4.8- WESTSIDE easy-listening walks across bucolic grasslands to a full- mile roundtrip hike popular among wildflower enthu- orchestra crescendo of high-peak scrambles. siasts. Nestled in a cirque at the base of the southern If you have the luxury of time,good regional guide- Tetons, this charming tarn is virtually hidden until you WINE & books and park and forest service rangers can direct are upon it. The trailhead is located halfway up Teton you to hidden backcountry treasures worth a lifetime of Pass off signed Phillips Canyon Road. Park at the start exploration. The hikes below offer a quick introduction of that road or in the large unpaved lot across the high- SPIRITS to the two national parks and six national forests that way 20 yards to the southeast. comprise this vast ecosystem, the opening notes of a Teton Valley wild lands masterpiece. The four-mile roundtrip trail to 9,827-foot Peaked The biggest Ah, sweet music. Peak offers sweeping fields of wildflowers and vistas Jackson Hole & into the west slope of the Teton Range that are second and best to none.At the main intersection in downtown Driggs, Grand Teton National Park turn east onto Little Avenue and follow the signs to Hikers can’t resist -dropping beauty of the selection of Grand Targhee Ski Resort. The hike begins right of the Tetons. The east shore of offers the best Dreamcatcher chair lift on the dirt service road. Hikes fine wines, backcountry views of in the park. The along the floor of Teton Canyon to the base of Devil’s massive peak towers over 4,000 feet above the Stairs, the Wind and Ice Caves, and the Aspen Trail are beers and lakeshore, its rocky slopes mirrored in Leigh’s crys- also good half-day options. These and many longer talline water.Wildflowers thrive in the lush understory spirits on the excursions are detailed in Targhee Trails,a comprehen- of the forested trail, and moose are frequently spotted sive guide to exploring the area. West Bank dining on aquatic vegetation near the shore.Walk as far as you wish; it is 7.4 miles roundtrip to the end of the Yellowstone Located at trail. The path begins at the north end of Visitors to the world’s first national park have over The Aspens, Outlet parking area, reached by turning west at North 1,000 miles of trail at their feet. Those on a tight time Teton Village Rd. Jenny Lake Junction. tether should not miss the South Canyon Rim Trail 307-733-5038 A dawn or dusk 1.2-mile roundtrip walk along level from Artist Point to the Upper Falls. The path follows [email protected] Sawmill Ponds Bench is a satisfying way to start or end the rim of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, a deep

a summer day.The bench offers a bird’s-eye view into a chasm cut by the powerful Yellowstone River. Both the McKoy photos Wade 16 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2007 Lower and Upper Falls are showcased on this 3.2-mile roundtrip excursion. Those in good physical condition can easily extend their canyon exploration with a spec- tacular side trip down Uncle Tom’s Trail. This short but very steep, one-mile path plunges 500 feet into the canyon via a series of steel-grate steps. It ends at a plat- summertime form near the base of 308-foot Lower Falls, offering a close-up view worth every gasp on the way back up. Both trails are accessed off the South Canyon Rim/Artist Point Road, located between Canyon and Lake junctions. The 4-mile Elephant Back Loop Trail one mile south of Fishing Bridge Junction leads to a superb overlook of Yellowstone Lake, Pelican Valley, and the Absaroka Mountains.And,while you certainly won’t have the place to yourself,the boardwalk around Upper Geyser Basin opposite weaves through the largest concentration of geysers in the world.Inexpensive brochures available at the visitor center outline two- to four-mile loop walks. Cody Teddy Roosevelt pronounced the 52-mile stretch of road between Cody and Yellowstone the most scenic blacktop in the United States. Designated the Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic Byway in 1996, U.S. Highway 14/16/20 follows the North Fork of the Shoshone River through the Absaroka Mountains to Yellowstone’s East Entrance. Thirty-eight miles out of Cody, at the end of an unimproved road 1.5 miles south of Blackwater Lodge, is the trailhead to the Blackwater Fire Memorial. This National Recreation Trail follows Blackwater Creek to a point near the origin of a 1937 fire that killed 15 CCC forest firefighters—the most deadly conflagration in the state to date.Those with time may wish to continue ascending the scenic trail beyond the memorial to the summit of ,where outstanding views of Buffalo Bill Reservoir and the Continental Divide unfold. Dubois Traveling west out of Dubois on U.S. Hwy 26/287 towards Togwotee Pass, visi- tors soak in one of the most stunning roadside panoramas in the West—a two- mile stretch of stratified volcanic cliffs and pinnacles that soar over a thousand feet into the sky. Upper and Lower Jade lakes’ bottle-green waters reflect the colorful banded formations and surrounding countryside beautifully. The 4.8-mile Teton Village Sports is your source for everything outdoors roundtrip hike to the lakes is among the most rewarding half-day excursions in the including fishing, disc golf, swimming, trekking, running, biking, entire region. The Jade Lakes trailhead is located adjacent to Brooks Lake hiking and a huge selection of men’s and women’s sportswear. Campground, accessed by turning off the highway onto the signed Brooks Lake Located at the gateway to Grand Teton National Park, stop by and Recreation Area access road. get outfitted with the things you need for your time in Jackson Pinedale Hole. We also enjoy winter all year long with skis, snowboards, Pinedale is the jumping-off point for trips into the . Forty boots, outerwear and accessories at savings of up to 70% off. summits top 13,000 feet in this dramatic Rocky Mountain chain,led by 13,804 foot Gannet, the highest point in the state. While oriented towards longer trips, Green up to River Lakes and Photographer’s Point are excellent day hikes. Green River Lakes is a 6.5-mile loop venture that showcases Square Top Mountain, the most pho- Winter all % tographed peak in the range. The 9-mile roundtrip hike to Photographer’s Point is 70 rewarded with a show-stopping vista of the northern Wind River Range. But then, summer off what would you except from a place called Photographer’s Point? Inquire locally for directions. long Rebecca Woods is a naturalist who has authored four respected guidebooks to the region: Jackson Hole Hikes, Targhee Trails, Walking the Winds,and Beyond the Tetons.

Even above treeline, hikers traverse spare but beautiful geography. Jackson’s mountain recreation specialists for over 40 years.

733-2181 Open Daily Crystal Springs Lodge in Teton Village www.tetonvillagesports.com

2007 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 17 MOUNTAIN Biking Single-tracks and roadways of Teton Pass and Greater Snow King

by Chris Peck

The Greater Snow King Area (GSKA) and Teton Pass Area (TPA) trail systems are two outdoor gold mines that Its mission statement, lure local and visiting mountain bikers alike. Free to all “Sustainable Trails, Respect users, they are easily accessed and are continually being Timproved. These trails, though, didn’t just appear, like for People, Respect for Land” some late afternoon August thundershower. For instance, the Greater Snow King area has seen big captures the essence improvements over the past six years thanks to a partner- ship between Friends of Pathways and the Forest Service, of the work, which is guided grant money from Wyoming State Trails and Teton Conservation District, and, perhaps most importantly, by a belief in the importance through volunteer labor totaling thousands of hours from individuals and service organizations. of connecting people with Its mission statement,“Sustainable Trails, Respect for their public lands, fostering People, Respect for Land” captures the essence of what GSKA is striving for in the region and appears on trail- joint stewardship in the care head kiosks and trail guides.Work is guided by a belief in of public lands, and working to craft long-term solutions to address recreation impacts and opportunities.

The Putt-putt—a Cache Creek classic. the importance of connecting people with their public lands, fostering joint stewardship in the care of public lands, and working to craft long-term solutions to address recre- ation impacts and opportunities. Initial GSKA efforts focused on recon- structing and repairing existing trails such as Sink or Swim, Putt-putt,West Game, and Josie’s Ridge, and improving trailhead signing. This work took three years and thousands of hours of labor (listen up, vol- unteers!) to bring trails and trailheads up to a quality standard. Once most of the trail system was sustainable, the fun of adding connections began. These trail con- nections were the first new ones to be built on the Bridger-Teton in decades. Countless hours of planning each new trail were fol- lowed by weeks of design and layout work. The result was over four miles of new trail, A one-way trail on Teton Pass, Lithium (above and right) is designed for downhill bikes and includes including the Ferrin’s Trail, a major exten-

many technical features and jumps. sion on the popular Putt-putt Trail, and a McKoy photos Wade 18 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2007 new trail in lower Cache Creek to reduce conges- tion on the first section of road. Through all of these projects, the community Through all of has worked hard to make this a world-class trail sys- tem. An increasing amount of funds and labor for these projects, rebuilding the GSKA trails is coming through dona- tions from locals. Mapping, trail signs, kiosks, trail the community guides, stream-bank restoration, and installation of mutt-mitt stations have all benefited from commu- has worked hard nity involvement. The Bridger-Teton National Forest provides the guidance, but it’s the community that to make this a builds and maintains these thoroughfares. Success in the Greater Snow King Area trail sys- world-class tem actually inspired more efforts elsewhere in the trail system. Local trails inspire both riders and the vol- unteers who help maintain those trails.

BehindBehind thethe BrewBrew PubPub •• 307-734-6886307-734-6886 Bicycling West Yellowstone, Montana www.fitzgeraldsbicycles.comwww.fitzgeraldsbicycles.com West Yellowstone’s world-famous XC ski trails do more than just go to seed when the snow melts.And smart skiers swap their boards for bikes to take advantage of the summer season’s call. From the edge of town cyclists can ride Rendezvous Ski Trails’ 30 kms of smooth, rolling single-track through forests of lodgepole pine. For info on these and other good mountain-bike routes on old logging roads and hiking trails, check with West’s celebrated local bike shop, Freeheel and Wheel (see page 53). Road bikers get a special treat in spring and fall, when Yellowstone park byways see little or no motor- Rentals ized travel. Plowed in mid-March—the exact date is weather-dependent—park roads remain closed to New Bikes motor vehicles until April 20. That gives bikers in West Yellowstone about a month to ride the park traffic- Repairs free and another month of light-traffic travel after the roads are opened to all vehicles and before the busy Info summer flow.The early season wildlife viewing is spectacular! Follow the Madison River for a short ride— Advice or bike all the way to Mammoth and back for a 104-miler. Bike Culture JACKSON’S OLDEST & LARGEST BIKE SHOP •Rental•Rental BikesBikes •Service•Service andand RepairRepair •Clothing,•Clothing, Helmets,Helmets, AccessoriesAccessories • Guided mt. bike adventures

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www.focusproductions. com 2007 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 19 valley. As Wyoming State Trails provided additional funding—and more volunteers and groups came to the table—work began on the Teton Pass Area adjacent to Wilson. This undertaking proved to be even more challenging than the GSKA system. Teton Pass trails have a long history of horseback and hiking use,not all of it amicable, despite the bucolic setting. Two decades ago, mountain bikes rode onto the scene. The resulting brew ofconflict,near collisions,illegal trails,and unhappy recreationists along the path demanded a change in the menu.The Forest Service organized pub- lic meetings to help craft a trail-system plan. And, unlike with the GSKA system, some separate-use trails were determined to be essential to the overall success of the TPA system. The network includes a mix of mountain bike trails with technical features, specific horse and hiking trails, and many multi-use trails. As work continues on these systems, good will and volunteers are still needed. For more information, please call 307-739-5428. Chris Peck has worked for the U.S. Forest Service and Friends of Pathways for the past five years, and has overseen the planning, construction, and improvements of trails in the Greater Snow King and Teton Pass areas.

Jackson’s long summer days create trail riding that draws bikers into the shadows of evening.

WILD by NATURE GALLERY

Wildlife & Landscape Photographs by Henry H. Holdsworth Limited Edition Photographs, Books, Note Cards 95 W. Deloney • Behind the • Box 2673 • Jackson, WY 83001 • 733-8877 www.wildbynaturegallery.com

20 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2007 Community Pathways Walk, roll, take a stroll By Tim Young One of the best ways to get around Jackson Hole these days is to jump on your bike or get out your walking shoes or roller blades and hit the local path- Oways. The award-winning Jackson Hole Community Pathways System continues to expand and now totals 28 miles, accessed close to homes and near local lodges and motels. Many areas of the valley have excellent connectivity, and the smooth paved path- ways serve a wide range of non-motorized interests, from practical transportation to peaceful nature- watching to joyful recreation. The newest pathway in Jackson Hole adds an important one-mile connection from the town of Wilson along WYO 22 to the Old Pass Road, accessing a scenic, challenging climb up to the top of 8,431-foot Teton Pass. This pathway was completed as part of the Teton Pass Millennium Trail project, designed to con- nect communities in Jackson Hole and Teton Valley, Many areas of the valley have cooperation with the National Elk Refuge, has applied Idaho, to public lands in the national forests. excellent connectivity, and the for a federal grant that, if approved, could provide con- Although there are still missing links in the path- struction funds for later this year. The pathway will ways system, the gaps are closing. One of the top com- smooth paved pathways serve a include new interpretive facilities to enrich the public’s munity priorities is the connection between Wilson understanding of the significant natural resources and and the Town of Jackson along WYO 22. This season, wide range of non-motorized wildlife the refuge protects. one helpful step for this corridor will include construc- The most exciting news of all: after a multi-year tion of a pathway spur near the new Journeys School. interests, from practical trans- planning process, the National Park Service has just The route will utilize an existing underpass and allow announced the final Record of Decision for the Grand pathway users to slip under WYO 22, thereby avoiding portation to peaceful nature- Teton Transportation Plan. The Park Service decision a busy on-grade highway crossing. watching to joyful recreation. will create a visionary world-class pathway and alter- Recently, the community non-profit organization native transportation system in Grand Teton National Friends of Pathways proposed a world-class pathway center to the Flat Creek Bridge.This is the start of a major Park, including an extended pathway system of nearly along WYO 22 that might include a scenic timber path- pathway that one day will extend all the way from Jackson 42 miles, and further next steps in studying transit in way and emergency bridge over the Snake River. The to Colter Bay,a distance of nearly 40 miles.This first half- the park. span would connect Emily Stevens Park on the east mile urban section is slated for construction this summer The proposed first phases of the Grand Teton bank to the BLM Snake River boat launch on the west. thanks to a grant the Town of Jackson secured. Pathways would construct the Moose-to-Jenny Lake Government agencies are beginning to study this corri- Design work for the next four miles north of pathway in 2008; the second phase would extend from dor and pathway concept. Jackson along U.S. 26 to the south boundary of Grand south Jenny Lake to String Lake; and the third phase Additional pathway sections to see construction this Teton National Park is also underway. Teton County, in would reach from the southern boundary to Moose. year include the South Park Under the leadership of U.S. Senator Craig Thomas, $8 area,south of Jackson.A new million has been appropriated to begin these phases, pathway will be started which are now being designed. along South Park Loop Road Future Grand Teton Pathway phases are proposed near the Melody Ranch from North Jenny to Colter Bay, and the southern three neighborhood, to eventually miles of the Moose-Wilson Road. The Moose-Wilson connect up in a subsequent path would connect the existing pathway along WYO phase with the Paul Merritt 390 and the Moose-Wilson Trail north into the park and Von Gontard trails, and up to the new LSR Rockefeller Preserve, which is which parallel U.S. 26 from nearing completion at the historic J-Y Ranch.The path- Jackson, south to Game way would connect to the preserve and allow visitors to Creek and beyond. access a fantastic new interpretive hiking-trail system One of the more exciting up to Phelps Lake. pieces to begin in ‘07 is a Pathways maps with the current system and tips for wonderful, new, wide path- safe riding are available around Jackson. way and sidewalk starting at Tim Young is the executive director of Friends of the Town of Jackson’s Home Pathways, the local non-profit group for bicycling, Ranch Parking Lot and run- Jackson’s Pathways (top right) and its county roadways (above) both walking, and trails support in Jackson Hole and the

Wade McKoy photos Wade ning north past the visitor appeal to riders who want a breath of fresh air and a workout. region.

www.focusproductions. com 2007 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 21 MOUNTAIN faces: could they melt off winter’s introduction in time? As the first weekend of September The Grand Traverse— approached,we were finally granted the forecast we had always hoped for: dry, warm, and light winds! the apex of Teton Tackling the traverse requires not only a fine mountaineering forecast, but also skill, stamina, developed route- Climbing finding experience, and an attitude of perseverance, persistence and pure enjoyment of all that these high hills have to offer,including knife-edged ridges, challenging scrambling on fourth- and fifth-class terrain, and the opportunity to take in aerial vistas of the Jackson Hole valley to the east, the potato fields of Idaho to the west, and the scores of moun- tains that make northwestern Wyoming such a haven for recreation and wildlife. While the view is expansive, the Grand Traverse also offers climbers the chance to experience these peaks more intimate- ly and from various angles and perspectives…as you go up on one side and descend on another. On the morning of Sept 4, 2006, we embarked on our 10-peak trek of this Teton enchainment. Beginning in the dark Lupine Meadows parking lot, we were privy to early morning elk bugling, an eerie yet triumphant autumnal sound,to which we took off on the climber’s trail up Teewinot. We began our journey by the light of our headlamps, ascending nearly 6,000 vertical feet.After a couple of hours, sunrise overcame the to the east, illuminating the valley floor and shed- ding warm rays on us as we sat atop the first sum- mit of the ten we would stand upon over the next 36 hours. A mountaineer’s dream, this ambitious climb links ten of the Teton’s highest peaks, combining several pitches of high-quality rock climbing on steep, solid granite with continual passages over fields of scree and talus. The Grand in the background, author Amy McCarthy makes her way between Teewinot and Mt. Owen on the first day of a Teton Range multi-mountain challenge. The warmth of a new day with clear skies allowed By Amy Brennan McCarthy us to shed some of the few layers we brought with us.A It’s 3 a.m. and while it’s not the first time we’ve lenging climbs throughout this stretch of peaks, as a primary objective in attempting this feat was to travel headed into Grand Teton National Park at this hour, it continuous multi-mountain challenge, the Grand light-and-fast, unencumbered by too much weight is our first attempt on the Grand Traverse. A moun- Traverse reigns supreme.And,after more than a decade while crossing variable terrain, where sometimes the taineer’s dream, this ambitious climb links ten of the of climbing, hiking, and exploring these mountains, option for retreat is much more daunting than the chal- Teton’sI highest peaks, combining several pitches of and having summited each of the traverse’s peaks indi- lenge of continuing onward and upward. Thus, our high-quality rock climbing on steep, solid granite with vidually,linking them together in one outing was utter- climbing kits for this expedition included a 60-meter continual passages over fields of scree and talus. The ly intriguing. rope,climbing harnesses,a small rack of climbing tools traverse begins on Teewinot (12,325’) and continues For four years my husband and I had set aside a (nuts, cams, slings), helmets, a cell phone, a few topo across Mt. Owen (12,928’), Grand Teton (13,770’), weekend in late August for this contiguous high-eleva- maps of climbing routes,small first-aid kit,Swiss Army (12,804’), (12,514’), Ice tion adventure. But each year the icy, sleety snow of a knives, rain jackets and pants, down jackets, hats, Cream Cone (12,400’), Gilkey Tower (12,320’), late summer storm—a harbinger of the season gloves, fleece hoodies, two layers of long underwear, Spalding Peak (12,240’), and ahead—presented itself, curtailing our plans for extra socks, various energy bars, Gu®, chocolate, left- (12,026’), culminating with an ascent of Nez Perce another year. We always seemed to pick the wrong over pizza from the night before (a backcountry (11,901’). It represents the apex of Teton mountaineer- weekend, and by 2006 one would have thought we favorite of mine),two liters of water,and two Red Bulls. ing,providing climbers with the opportunity to explore might have learned the pattern and the lesson.Again,it While all the peaks were familiar, the cols, passes some of the most inaccessible, remote and technical snowed. Deterred, but not completely dejected, we and saddles that connected them were sometimes less terrain in the range,all while staying above 11,000 feet. checked the forecast for the following weekend…sum- common terrain, which was the case as we made our

Although there are certainly more technical and chal- mer again. But we worried about the mountain’s north way from Teewinot to Mt. Owen. Linking these two Forrest McCarthy photos

22 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2007 summits of what is complex terrain. known as the Route-finding can be Cathedral Traverse an ongoing challenge when the Grand for those who ven- Teton is included in ture off-trail. The this trio, proved to be Grand Traverse is not some of the most an appropriate first challenging fourth- outing in the Tetons; and fifth-class and it should be scrambling of the attempted only after journey, but it also many seasons of provided some of the mountain experi- most spectacular vis- ence. Although there tas when we looked McCarthy, on the summit of the South Teton, takes in is no definitive down upon the Teton the Middle and Grand, all terrain in this 10-peak trek. record of successful Glacier and the jewel-toned Delta Lake. attempts of the Grand Traverse, it is likely that fewer Even while moving at a fairly swift pace (although than 50 individuals have accomplished this climb.Rock not even close to the blistering speed with which Exum climbing schools and mountaineering trips offered Guide Rolando Garibotti accomplished the Grand through Exum Mountain Guides and Jackson Hole Traverse in a positively astonishing 6 hours and 49 Mountain Guides provide sound introductions and minutes in August 2000), we continued over to the advanced lessons to prepare novice climbers for years Grandstand, a somewhat flat expanse from which we of safe and successful mountain journeys. began our ascent of the Italian Cracks on the north face We celebrated our climb with a pizza (this time it of the Grand. Here we encountered some of the most was hot) at Dornan’s in Moose, where we were committing and exposed,yet enjoyable,climbing of the reminded that the view from below is just as good as traverse. From this vantage point you can look down the one from above. Ultimately, whether you venture thousands of feet into Cascade Canyon.Although it was high in these hills or witnesses the range’s panorama later in the afternoon,the sky was clear and the forecast from a distance, you can’t help but be instilled with encouraging when we embarked on this north-side awe at the magnificence of such a truly grand geolog- climb with an understanding that in this remote sec- ic consequence. tion of the Tetons, it would be easier to ascend than to Amy Brennan McCarthy has been exploring the orchestrate a retreat from this vertical face.We arrived Tetons for over a dozen years. She is a trekking guide atop the Grand just as the sun’s angle began to reveal at Exum Mountain Guides and an avid supporter of how Shadow Mountain (a smaller hilltop east of the protecting the earth’s wild places. Snake River and rising above Antelope Flats) got its name. The jagged silhouette of these spires and pinna- EXUM MOUNTAIN GUIDES Try Indoor cles, forged by a dramatic tectonic uplift and sculpted Explore the VerticalVertical!! through the erosive forces of wind, frost, rain, and snow, was projected onto the valley floor. This impres- Climbing! sive shadow was a sign that our timing was just about Learn to Climb • Daily Instruction right to descend to the Lower Saddle (11,600’) before at Jenny Lake nightfall to relish some hot food and deserved slumber & Teton Village Great Family Fun beneath a starry sky. • Family Activities. Enjoy a climbing adventure Early the next morning we awoke to another gor- • Private Guides geous day and began our traverse of the remaining Available with your entire family. peaks, beginning with the Middle Teton and continu- Climb the Grand Teton Climbs for all levels and all ing on to Nez Perce. Upon reaching number ten in this & Famous Teton Peaks. ages offer fun for everyone. suite of summits, we were elated—absolutely thrilled All Skill Levels - Beginner to Expert Try indoor climbing today! and invigorated—by our travels. However, as every • One-Day Climbs climber knows, the summit is only the half-way point. • - Wind River Range Two short rappels from the top of Nez Perce led us back to the faint climber’s trail and down to the meadows of Kids Climb and Dine .Next we passed through a boulder field While you enjoy a night on of car-sized rocks made of gneiss, schist, and granite, the town, your kids are the gateway to the final four miles to complete the loop Reservations 307-733-2297 treated to 3 hours of back to our car. En route to the parking lot, we www.exumguides.com supervised climbing and acknowledged our good fortune to have been able to spend so much time above treeline connecting these dinner. A night everyone summits through a combination of boulder hopping, BORN PROFESSIONALLY will remember! scree sliding, talus tiptoeing, classic scrambling, and Call for details. other more continuously vertical progressions. Overall, by today’s standards, the climbing on this classic traverse is not particularly stout.The chief chal- www.enclosureclimbing.com lenges in attempting this series of summits are mainly 307-734-9590 route-finding, weather, and endurance. Even for sea- soned mountaineers, the Tetons present intricate and Authorized Concession of Grand Teton National Park Jackson Hole, Wyoming and Jackson Hole Mountain Resort

www.focusproductions. com 2007 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 23 RIVERRIVER Alpine white-water and scenic Rafting float trips top vacation adventures by Tom Bie Get the front seat if you can. That’s the first advice, There is a golden moment, the idea. The anxiety will soon be replaced by exuber- that’s where the action is. Rafting in the Greater ance after you’ve pounded through some beefy waves Yellowstone region is not only recommended, it’s prac- just as you enter the smooth, and come through upright and alive. tically required. The area is so packed with burly white There is a golden moment, just as you enter the water and calm lakes that to return home without get- slick tongue of a big rapid, smooth, slick tongue of a big rapid, when time stands Gting on the water is like taking a trip to Hawaii and still and the world is quiet despite the chaos around never going to the beach. when time stands still and the you. These are the moments on a river trip that create The eight-mile white-water stretch of the Snake world is quiet despite memories you’ll take home with you. River just below Jackson Hole may offer the finest one- Most outfitters offer the choice of going in either day introduction to rapids in the country and visitors the chaos around you. an oar-frame boat, in which the guide does all the may often choose their choice of craft—from a self- guided, sit-on-top kayak to a kick-back-and-enjoy- the-view, let-the-guide-do-the-work boat ride. As you load up to begin your trip, something changes. You realize just how different a raft feels than that desk chair you’ve become accustomed to and as you peer out over a river carrying the collective weight of a long winter,you understand why this is still consid- ered an adventure.Time on the water is time well spent. Learn to enjoy that twinge in your gut as you round a bend and hear a roar like the sound of ocean waves breaking on the beach. If you’re nervous—good, that’s White-water boaters (above) catch a breath before the next rapids; (right) boaters should plan on getting a tad wet during river running. Lunch Counter rapids (facing page) is a favorite

for surfers too. photos Bob Woodall 24 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2007 work, or a paddle raft, in which everyone aboard helps Sometimes all you may want is silence, and a float maneuver the boat downstream. through the park offers the perfect answer for a quiet, Whatever option you choose, make sure to call lazy afternoon. early, especially during those hot summer afternoons The scenic upper section of the Snake is much dif- when everybody is looking for a splash in the face. ferent than it’s white-water counterpart in that it is Scenic Floats very braided, with many different routes and side If you don’t think the splash-and-giggle scene is channels. The shoreline varies greatly along these sec- for you, you’ll still want to check out the possibility of tions of river, as dense forests of spruce and lodgepole going on a scenic trip. It is here where you are likely to pine give way to the deciduous stands of cottonwoods encounter some of the larger mammals that inhabit and aspen, where beavers like to make their home. the region. Scenic floats also allow for more of an interpretive Moose, elk, deer, bison, pronghorn antelope, black trip, with visitors learning the history of the valley, its and grizzly bear can all be seen along regional water- fur trappers, western heritage, and geography. Since 1964 ways. In addition, wolves have made their way into Tom Bie, currently at large in Colorado, worked in 307-733-4410 • 1-800-358-8184 Grand Teton National Park, so it’s only a matter of Jackson Hole as a fishing guide and as the sports editor www.sandswhitewater.com time before these, too, are spotted along the banks of for the Jackson Hole News & Guide before moving on to the Snake. stints as senior editor at The Drake,Skiing,and Powder. Babysitting by the Tetons

• A 24 hour, on-call babysitting service. Long & short term available. • Childcare at your location. • Mature, responsible one-on-one care of your children. Their safety is our primary concern. • An experienced babysitter is selected to meet your requirements. • Special needs children are welcome.

• Member, Jackson Hole Area Chamber of Commerce. • Only licensed babysitting service for the town of Jackson. • Serving locals and visitors in Jackson for 18 years. For information and reservations 307-733-0754 or Toll Free 866-733-0754

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www.focusproductions. com 2007 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 25 ALPINE by Jeff Burke Kayaking Paddle and glide into the wild

What skiing is to winter in Jackson Hole,kayak- where he has made several pioneering descents on ing—in all its forms—is to spring. And to summer. Three to five hours of lake pad- some of the south island’s rivers. “The Snake itself is And, believe it or not, to fall! A rich combination of probably one of the greatest ‘play’ boating rivers I’ve regional rivers, lakes, and tributaries provides miles of dling can take people to places ever seen,”he adds.“At every level, there’s a feature you world-class water-based adventure for anyone seeking that might take four or five days can go and play your brains out in, and you don’t get waves,W wildlife, or wilderness. that on most rivers.” The Snake River is without question the funda- to reach on foot, while some But it’s not just for the extreme boater. Several mental reason a white-water kayaking community stretches of water offer all levels of paddling, from exists in Jackson Hole. From its headwaters in locations are simply not accessi- beginner to expert, flat water to class IV. And many Yellowstone National Park, the Snake flows through the long-time locals extol the fantastic learning landscape. eastern flank of Grand Teton National Park and into ble by any other means. “I think Jackson is a great place to learn to kayak,”says the famous Snake River Canyon, home to some of the most consistently entertaining boating this side of the Atlantic.Eventually the Snake makes a 1,000-mile jour- ney to Washington, where it is the largest tributary to the Columbia River. In addition to quality waves and holes, the Snake offers one of the longest paddling sea- sons of any river in North America, beginning as early as March and continuing well into November. Unlike many other alpine rivers that feature white water, the Snake, specifically Snake River Canyon, can be run just about any time of year.“It doesn’t matter if the water is at 1500 cfs (cubic feet per second) or 15,000—there’s always a feature to play on,”says Mike Werner, Jackson Hole ski patrolman and long-time boater. Easily mistaken for a ZZ-top stunt double, hirsute boater Olaf Koehler echoes Werner’s praise. He moved to the valley from Wisconsin in 1976 to be a ski bum. Two years later he stepped into his first fiberglass boat. “I wanted something to do in the summertime,”says Koehler.“I wanted something to carry on the adventure year-round.”Since then,“Oly” has become a household Photos: Wade McKoy (top left); Greg Winston (top right); Bob Woodall (bottom left) (top right); Bob Woodall McKoy (top left); Greg Winston Photos: Wade name in the valley’s boating circles, not to mention the Sea kayaks (top) are perfect for plying some of the Snake’s more placid sections, but white water namesake on restaurant food items in New Zealand, (above) demands different craft and more aggressive piloting skills.

26 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2007 Valley kayaking legend ‘Oly’ Koehler manages to “play” a rapid on some Jackson Hole water. Jon Wiedie, a seasoned river runner who honed his from New Zealand. “So if you’re new to paddling or own boating chops here in the valley,“just because of new to town, you can still get down the Snake by the Snake. It’s really forgiving. It’s where I learned.” yourself or bump into a couple people in the car park Snake River denizen Jaime Crowley shares those or on the river.” sentiments.“It’s an incredibly safe river for how fun it Jaime Crowley touts the ease with which an out- is,”he says.“A lot of rivers aren’t as accessible. I think a sider can get into valley boating. “If somebody came lot of people come here to learn how to kayak, but I here from out of town and didn’t know anybody,” he think there’s actually more who are pretty good who says,“they could get off an airplane at 9 a.m.,drive into come here. Summer is busy, but spring and fall, people town in a rental car, and have a boat on top of their car come from all over the West to play on these features and all their gear rented, and have a group of people to because they’re really good.” go kayaking with by noon—and not a group they’re Access is another ingredient to great boating in the paying, but a group to say ‘Yeah,c’mon with us.’It hap- valley,white water or scenic.Much of the Snake and its pens all the time.” tributaries have several put-in locations and miles of If getting away from people is your thing, it’s easily roadside access. done while lake kayaking in Grand Teton and For intermediate and advanced paddlers, several Yellowstone national parks. “There are 3 million visi- Jackson, Wyoming rivers—the Gros Ventre, Hoback, Teton, and Greys, for tors to Yellowstone each year,”says Snake River Kayak example—provide scores of options,all within an hour- and Canoe owner Steve Koning,“and 99 percent never and-a-half drive from the town of Jackson. Local shops leave the pavement. I’ve done multiple day trips on like Rendezvous River Sports, Snake River Kayak and Lake Yellowstone and seen one person in six days.” Canoe, and Leisure Sports work as hubs for people new Several lakes in the area offer myriad opportunities to the valley seeking gear, river and lake info, instruc- for backcountry exploration. Beginning with String tion,and opportunities to locate paddling partners. Lake in Grand Teton National Park, boaters can learn A very open community of boaters in the valley basics in a safe environment,slowly moving on to larg- bolsters access as well. “The Snake is a place where er bodies of water in the greater Yellowstone area.“The you can show up on your own and meet up with pad- lake kayaking here is probably the best in the Rocky Summer Rentals dlers,”says Crowley’s wife, Libby, herself a transplant Mountains,”says Aaron Pruzan, owner of Rendezvous Rafts, canoes, sea kayaks, duckies, catarafts and • Yellowstone Sea Kayaking Tours drift boats. • Yellowstone Sea Kayaking Tours Guided fishing trips • Whitewater Duckie Trips available. • Guided Fishing Trips Outdoor Retail • Lessons, Sales, Rentals Summer clothing, rafting, camping, and fishing gear. New and used rafts, kayaks, canoes and drift boats. Hunting and fishing licenses available. Car Rentals Yearround Suburbans, Tahoes, small SUV and Economy cars. 307.733.3040 Located in downtown Jackson Hole 1075 S. Hwy 89, Jackson, WY 307-733-9999 • 800-KAYAK-01 (800-529-2501) • www.snakeriverkayak.com www.leisuresportsadventure.com MENTION THIS AD WHEN BOOKING FOR A FREE T–SHIRT – Authorized permittee of YNP and BTNF www.focusproductions. com 2007 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 27 Sea-kayaking enthusiasts often navigate Yellowstone Lake waters to access park backcountry.

River Sports,“as far as being able to get out in the back- country, experience the scenery, and see wildlife.” Three to five hours of lake paddling can take people to places that might take four or five days to reach on foot, while some locations are simply not accessible by any other means. Not only that, it immediately yields boaters a notable advantage over hikers or sightseers for interaction with wildlife. Boaters often paddle amidst waterfowl, eagles, otters, and beavers, and at times edging close to—but at safe distances from— larger wildlife such as wolves,moose,and bears. Wildlife isn’t the only draw to lake kayaking. Paddling at sunsets and sunrises from locations oth- erwise out of reach by hiking raise the bar as well.“We do a lot of boat camping,”says Dave Coon, a veteran lake paddler who has been exploring the valley’s lakes for the last 20 years. He says it’s camping without the load. Boats can handle up to four times the amount of a typical backpack load.“It’s a lot more bottled wine,” he adds, “and a lot less freeze-dried food.” Plus, kids are more easily transported “in calmer water,” Coon River kayakers can hold onto the moment, surfing a good wave repeatedly before moving on. points out.“It’s a great way to get your family off the August for 80° temps to be followed by snowsqualls. direction. That’s the nature of a river, and as kayakers beaten path.” Jackson Hole has several outfitters that guide and teach we’re exploiting all of that.” With any kind ofadventure,it’s good to do your all disciplines of paddle craft. Much of the allure to Jeff Burke is a freelance writer living in Jackson. homework. Know where you’re going and know your boating is the intimacy paddlers share with the water The first-born of nine, he is often toiling in the hills limits. Rivers and lakes can be dangerous. Know what surrounding them.“Kayaking is a combination of your with one or more of his eight brothers—all blonde— skills and judgment and what’s happening around you,” to do when conditions change. Wind and weather are who live throughout the valley. fickle in the Rockies, and it’s not that impossible in says Jaime Crowley.“Water doesn’t move in [only] one

The calm waters of Oxbow Bend on the Snake (above) attract both wildlife and scenic boaters. String Lake’s shallow waters (right) provide new boaters a safe yet magnificent environment.

28 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2007 Western Waterways A.J. DeRosa’s Grand Teton Bridger-Teton Wooden Boat National Park National Forest Boating is restricted Class III and IV River Tours to non-motorized craft, white water on the private river except on Jackson and Snake River begins at tour experts Jenny lakes, where West Table and runs since 1978 powerboats are allowed. eight miles through the Launches along the Snake River Canyon. Snake River access a vari- Self-registration, while ety of waters. Life pre- not required,is available servers and boat permits at West Table. Info: are required. Info: (307) (307) 739-5444. 739-3399. Canoes, pon- Other rivers in the toon boats, and small area offer everything powerboats can be rented from serene scenery to at Signal Mountain or challenging rapids. Call Colter Bay marinas on (307) 739-5400 for . information on running the Buffalo Fork, Gros Yellowstone Ventre, Hoback, or National Park Greys rivers. In Yellowstone Other lakes in the National Park, motor- area that offer good boats, canoes, rowboats, boating: Slide Lake, east kayaks, and sailboats are Plenty of western waterways are suited to fam- of Jackson (windsurf- allowed on Yellowstone ily adventures and boaters of all ages. ing, sailboats, paddle 732-BOAT (2628) and Lewis lakes, but only craft); Palisades www.woodboattours.com paddle boats on Shoshone Lake. All other rivers and Reservoir, at Alpine Junction (power and sailboats). lakes are closed to boaters. Life preservers and permits are required.Boats can be rented at Bridge Bay Marina. Info: (307) 344-7381. West of Yellowstone Neighborhood Pub & Grille West of the park, the Madison River provides white N water from Ennis Reservoir through Bear Trap Canyon,  and idyllic floating to its confluence with the Missouri At the base of Snow King Mountain  River. Info: (406) 683-2337.  Fine Whiskeys Everything from powerboats to paddle craft can W put in on four lakes near West Yellowstone. Outboards  17 Draft Beers  can be rented at Hebgen Lake, while paddle boats and E motorized “personal watercraft” are available at  Choice Steaks, Fresh , Henry’s Lake. Info: (406) 646-7701. Fish & Chips, Burgers yoming Green River & Pinedale Area The Green River between Pinedale and Big Piney is 645 S. Cache - Jackson Hole, W primarily utilized for fishing. For information call 307.733.0043 (307) 367-4352. Fremont and Half Moon lakes, near Pinedale, allow paddle craft and power and sailboats; and Green River Lakes, north of Cora, allow paddle craft only. Cody & the North Fork In Cody, river runners can catch Class III rapids on the North Fork of the Shoshone River from Yellowstone Park to the reservoir, or combine placid water with Class IV rapids on the main Shoshone from the reser- voir to just past town. River info: (307) 527-7125, hik- ing and camping info: (307) 527-6921. Water skiing, fishing, and windsurfing are enjoyed on the Buffalo Bill Reservoir, west of Cody. Info: (307)

Photos: Wade McKoy (top two); Bob Woodall (white water & String Lake); Henry Holdsworth (wildlife) McKoy (top two); Bob Woodall Photos: Wade 587-9227.

www.focusproductions. com 2007 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 29 FLY-FISHING Greater Yellowstone’s Waters The best in the world By Paul Bruun On the late March Madness weekend when Jackson Mountain West, 2007 is shaping up as a slightly below- Obulged with visitors to the annual Snow Devils World average snow/water year, which translates into favor- Championship Snowmobile Hill Climb, dozens of able early season angling conditions. Ice-off on lower- equally enthusiastic fishermen already were happily altitude lakes and an overall quicker runoff period will floating and wading the Snake River. Thanks to a allow fishermen access to productive waters ahead of Wyoming Game and Fish Department regulation schedule. Bureau of Reclamation water-storage facili- change several years ago, catch-and-release cutthroat ties such as Jackson Lake,Palisades,Buffalo Bill,and trout fishing is allowed on the Wyoming portion of the Island Park Reservoirs are being held at higher levels. Snake, from November 1 through March 31. Creating extra capacity for anticipated runoff-inflow This generous winter-fishing season is available storage is not being anticipated. only when the weather permits. But unusually mild Because so many superb trout rivers lie within an March temperatures that reached into the 60s chased easy day’s drive from northwest Wyoming, area water away remaining low-country winter snow accumula- conditions affect a growing number of recreational tions which, in turn, allowed easier river access. And interests. The Army Corps of Engineers and the this encouraged summer fishing, hiking, and camping Bureau of Reclamation, government agencies that enthusiasts who are always eager to get their activities oversee river courses and major water-storage proj- Top: Two fly-casters work a clear, demanding stretch of water; (above) an angler carefully under way. ects, are growing more sensitive to fishing and recre- employs his forceps to release a beautiful Although the months following March can deposit ational interests when it comes to preparing dam-flow

native Snake River cutthroat. healthy amounts of precipitation to the Rocky and lake-level regimes.Irrigation of downstream agri- McKoy photos Wade

30 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2007 In an effort to protect resident native cutthroat trout strains from the grow- ing intrusion, Idaho biol- ogists have implemented a year-round catch-and-release regulation on cut- throats in the South Fork of the Snake and a special limit on . culture will always be the major agency focus. However, inroads recently made by state wildlife biolo- gists, nonprofit environmental groups, anglers, boaters, and rafters have improved how and when water is managed and released. River and stream levels vary because drainage runoff timetables differ. Anglers may target low-lying lakes during the early river-runoff periods.Higher-alti- tude lakes often are not free of ice until sometime in June/July, so plan hikes and pack trips accordingly. Fishing season dates on waters in states surround- ing Yellowstone National Park may vary slightly, but a A happy angler prepares to release a fine-spotted Snake River Cutthroat. majority of waters are fishable by Memorial Day week- permitted from November 1 until March 31. end. Yellowstone Park requires purchase of a fishing In an effort to protect resident native cutthroat trout REGIONAL FISHING permit, available from visitor stations. Check park as strains from the growing rainbow trout intrusion, Idaho well as state regulations to avoid waters closed until biologists have implemented a year-round catch-and- DESTINATIONS later dates or covered by special restrictions. release regulation on cutthroats in the South Fork of the Trout seasons on Wyoming’s Snake and the South Snake and a special limit on brown trout.The new annu- JACKSON HOLE Fork of the Snake in Idaho have been adjusted to allow al upper-South Fork trout season encourages the unlim- In addition to its own excellent ,Jackson is year-round fishing. In Wyoming, the Snake’s trout har- ited harvest of rainbows to protect cutthroat spawning. surrounded by other great angling destinations. Many vest season runs from April 1 through October 31 for This regulation is controversial and some anglers still visitors base in Jackson and make day-fishing trips cutthroat trout. Catch-and-release cutthroat fishing is release rainbows while others may keep a few. outside the valley. Portions of rivers like the Hoback, Salt, and Greys are open year-round. The Snake is world headquarters to its own subspecies of fine-spot- ted cutthroat trout and is also Wyoming’s largest Blue Ribbon River and a popular major attraction fished by most anglers. Easily accessible lakes like Jackson, Jenny, Leigh, and Grassy are usually ice-free by mid- to late May and fish well from shore until the warmer days of July arrive. Deep-water becomes popular until late September, when fish will again be found in shallower water. or mackinaw that may reach 50 pounds, as well as cutthroat trout, thrive in these deep lakes. Lewis and Shoshone lakes inside the South Entrance of Yellowstone are excellent brown and lake-trout fish- eries that anglers can usually access from the end of May (depending on weather) through the end of October. Once the Snake clears, the water is high and swift throughout the summer until mid-September.A steep gradient makes wading challenging, so the Snake is best fished by floating. The native cutthroat is excep- tionally enthusiastic about dry flies and also chases streamers, nymphs, and spinning lures. Grasshopper fishing in August and September is a cherished part of the Snake’s seasonal anthology. Other favorite Jackson rivers more suited to wad- ing are the Hoback, Gros Ventre, and Buffalo, as well as Flat, Cottonwood, and Pacific creeks. The Hoback pro- vides a giant stonefly hatch in early July. After it clears in July, the Buffalo well into late September. continued next page

2007 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 31 Flat Creek in the National Elk Refuge is a chal- The native cutthroat lenging fly-fishing-only spring creek-like stream that opens on August 1. An extensive section of this is exceptionally stream meanders through Jackson. CODY enthusiastic about This East Yellowstone Entrance community named for the famous Wild West personality offers a dry flies and also variety of lake, reservoir, and stream fishing. Cody anglers enjoy numerous insect hatches emerging chases streamers, from the North Fork of the Shoshone. This popular river creates the productive Buffalo Bill Reservoir nymphs, and and offers rainbows, cutthroats, and browns. Lake trout are also abundant in Buffalo Bill. Be sure to spinning lures. note Wyoming G&F regs. for the April 1-July 1 spawning closure on portions of river and reservoir.

Clockwise from above: An angler’s partner boats his catch; these guys will be hard to fool; a remote, lush mountain meadow har- bors picture-perfect conditions for angling and camping. BE PREPARED

Visitors focused on fishing should also be Vaware of storms, insects, and bears. High-eleva- tion weather conditions change rapidly.A sharp drop in temperature accompanies fast-moving mountain storms that dispense chilling winds and possible combinations of rain, hail, or snow. For insurance pack an extra fleece jacket or insulated vest and sturdy rainwear. Graphite rods attract lightning, so cease casting during thunderstorms. Biting insects are especially present in irri- gated ranch lands and locales that harbor standing snow-melt during the early season. Full-coverage clothing and repellent are helpful. Keep a current aerosol pepper-spray dispenser handy whenever fishing in bear country (which is just about everywhere).Remember that bears like to fish, too. Floating and fishing in Jackson Hole combines the best of both worlds. WEST YELLOWSTONE Surrounding the West Entrance to Yellowstone For both rugged beauty National Park, this area is the jumping-off point to many legendary Western rivers, including the and excellent fishing, Madison, Henry’s Fork, Yellowstone, Firehole, Gallatin, and more. The eagerly anticipated and Wyoming’s only federally widely acclaimed fly hatch on the Lower Madison begins in late June and peaks around the proclaimed Wild & Scenic Fourth of July. The Firehole,America’s most unusual trout river, is River, the Clark’s Fork of fed by Yellowstone’s great geysers, fumaroles, and ther- mal springs. A similar resident rainbow and brown the Yellowstone, is a trout population also flourishes in the Madison in the park, where excellent mayfly and caddis hatches thrive short drive from Cody. until hopper fishing takes over in August. By mid-

For both rugged beauty and excellent fishing, ToTo usus it’sit’s moremore thanthan justjust catchingcatching fish;fish; Wyoming’s only federally proclaimed Wild & Scenic River, the Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone, is a short drive from Cody. Located within easy hiking access to the unique Beartooth Highway (U.S. 212) are numerous wilder- ness fishing lakes. Get local fly shop recommendations to a variety of high lakes, where cutthroat, golden, and rainbow trout are available to fly and spin fishermen after late June. These lakes are excellent float-tube waters. East and West Newton lakes, a few minutes’ drive outside Cody, offer easily accessible trout oppor- tunity, and a variety of species and techniques may be

Photos: Wade McKoy (top left two); Bob Woodall (top right, bottom) McKoy (top left two); Bob Woodall Photos: Wade employed.

Rod and Reel. it’s about protecting the environment, preserving the fisheries Enjoy a meal. and ecosystems for future generations. ClackaCraft is truly dedicated to conservation, our goal We have two convenient is to generate over $100,000 for conservation each locations to serve you: Delicious casual and fi ne year by partnering with such worthy organizations ClackaCraft of Idaho Falls dining, boat rentals, fun activities, and such as the Jackson Hole One Fly Foundation, The 2700 N Yellowstone Hwy comfortable lodging, right on the shore of Idaho Falls, ID 83401 Lake Jackson. Henry’s Fork Foundation and Trout Unlimited. 1-800-394-1345 SignalMountainLodge.com 307-543-2831 Mountain Drift Boats Grand Teton National Park, WY 95 W. Center St. Open seasonally from May – October Victor, ID 83455 ForeverResorts.com 208-313-7720 Forever Resorts is an Authorized Concessioner of the National Park Service. www.focusproductions. com 2007 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 33 ly unite near “Wyoming’s Icebox,”Big Piney, currently in the throes of an energy-exploration boom. High prairie subtly camouflages exceptional fish- ing for browns and rainbows in both the Green and smaller New Fork. Flowing from the Green River Lakes,the upper Green features extensive public access areas and campgrounds. Upstream from the Warren Bridge on U.S. 189/191, under which the Green flows, are a number of BLM access areas. Downstream the river is surrounded by mostly private lands, dotted with a few Game and Fish Dept. public access points. Float trips are popular on both rivers beginning in early July, when they clear. Check local shops for cur- rent access information. The Wyoming Game & Fish Dept.successfully con- tinues to reintroduce once-native cutthroat subspecies to many Pinedale, Daniel, and Big Piney tributary streams as well as the Green itself. A special angling treat is found in Meadow Lake below Pinedale in the Wind River foothills outside of Boulder. This is home to grayling, the unusual trout- like fish that wears an extremely large dorsal fin high- lighted with delicate red/purple spotting. Grayling willingly sip small flies and tiny spinning lures. Also

A special angling treat is found in Meadow Lake, home to grayling, below Pinedale in the Wind River foothills outside of Boulder.

vehicle-accessible are Soda and Willow lakes, which provide excellent float tube and small-boat angling opportunities. SOUTHEASTERN IDAHO Giant stoneflies and other exceptional western aquatic insect hatches historically highlight fishing experiences on the Henry’s and South Fork of the Snake River. Fed by Big Spring and Henry’s Lake Outlet,the Henry’s Fork near Last Chance,Idaho,is renowned for its salmon fly hatch, which begins around Memorial Day. This river’s prolific insect An underwater camera-housing, complete with flash, helped “capture” this beautiful trout. hatches attract trout lovers from all over the world who September, spawning fish from downstream in Hebgen ent and enjoyable to watch as the daily trout menu con- enjoy challenging its selective rainbows. Lake begin to move up into park waters,providing excit- stantly changes. The South Fork, which begins in Wyoming and ing action until park fishing closes in early November. Yellowstone Lake offers a fine opportunity to pur- then crosses into Idaho above Palisades Reservoir, is Hebgen Lake and its various arms offer some of the sue its native cutthroat not only from boats and float the country’s largest native-cutthroat and trophy area’s finest dry-, beginning in mid-July. tubes but from the bank as well.Spin and fly fishermen brown trout . Despite being such a sizable river, During the morning calm, trout locally termed enjoy success from many beaches and shores along anglers are frequently required to use delicate fishing “gulpers” cruise between surface blankets of tiny adjacent park roads and parking areas. skills to fool its abundant fish. Both rivers have local “Trico” mayflies, sipping constantly. A little later, the outfitters and fly shops or may be accessed by Jackson PINEDALE Tricos are joined by larger Callibaetis mayflies (speck- Hole outfitters. This Old West ranching community lies 75 miles led spinners) as the trout party hits high gear. south of Jackson Hole, situated adjacent to the Wind The Yellowstone River inside the park (with a few Paul Bruun has edited several newspapers during River Range and squarely along the historic Oregon his career, and writes the weekly “Outdoors” column tributary exceptions) traditionally opens on July 15 to Trail.This portion of Sublette County offers a variety of in the Jackson Hole News & Guide and contributes to a flourish of caddis insect action. This is a truly superb west-slope hiking and horse-packing trail entrances to outdoor magazines. He operates his own fly-fishing fishery for large Yellowstone-strain cutthroat that are the splendid Wind River Range and its endless trout- float-trip service, founded the South Fork Skiff drift willing risers for a variety of fly imitations. The river filled lake collection. The Green and the New Fork boat company, and served 12 years on the Jackson provides an exceptional range of catch-and-release

rivers begin here and flow south, where they ultimate- Town Council during his 34 years in Jackson. (right) McKoy (left); Bob Woodall Photos: Wade fishing opportunities. Numerous insect types are pres- 34 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2007 FISHING TIPS—THE LOCAL ANGLE Snake River cutthroat, driven by hunger—or Yellowstone to the Green River to the South Fork of piscine madness—will often inhale foam concoc- the Snake, to the Henry’s Fork and to the home tions more closely resembling something from, say, drainage of the Snake) challenges even locals. And SBizarro World than from the earth as we know it.At there’s a reason for staying on top of the game. other times, perhaps five minutes after an angler “People fish for cutthroat because of their willing- has just landed a prize catch, those same cutties ness to hit a dry fly,and their reputation doesn’t dis- won’t rise to the most perfectly approximate dry fly, appoint,”he adds. presented with surgical precision. And while there Some of the water, though, is big.“Don’t let the isn’t a ‘unified field theory’ for successful fly-fishing size of the river intimidate you,”Salsbury encour- Your Gateway this part of the world, those who know the home ages.“The majority of the water here is larger than waters best can provide some insight into regional most anglers have experienced. Don’t try to fish all waters and their piscatorial residents. the water; just key in on the water that is most like- to Yellowstone “Do your homework,” urges Baker Salsbury, ly to hold fish.” owner of Westbank Anglers.“Know what river you Naturally, his and Jaquith’s shops are sources of are going to fish, where you are going to fish it, and well-earned insight into area angling tactics,includ- Country what the regulations are.” ing wade-fishing.“While wading the local stretch of Those of us living in what has been called the the Snake [for example] can be productive,” says “Golden Triangle” of trout fishing, where Wyoming, Jaquith,“I’d definitely recommend using a boat for Montana, and Idaho embrace each other in the access. They’re easy to fish from and get you away geography in and around Yellowstone National from the public access points.” Park, rarely complain about the fishing. Those who Both shops would agree, though, that the price do, certainly won’t earn sympathy whining in front of a guide on waters so vast and bountiful is well of anglers from places like Pahrump, Nevada, or worth it. Brooklyn, New York. For more info. contact these guys at either Reel “Jackson Hole offers some of the best fly-fishing Deal Anglers (877-744-0522; 307-739-7020) or in the west,” adds Reel Deal Head Guide Dave Westbank Anglers (800-922-3474; 307-733-6483). Jaquith. Boning up on all the water (from —Mike Calabrese Lodging • Modern Cabins Outdoor BBQs Full Catering Services Restaurant and Bar Fishing • Hiking Whitewater Rafting Horseback Riding • Pack Trips Weddings • Reunions • Retreats 800-543-2847 www.togwoteelodge.com [email protected] Highway 26/287 POBox 91 Moran, Wyoming 83013 Under permit of the BTNF

Horses can haul an angler and his gear to some of the region’s most promising waters.

Come fish with us at Reel Deal Anglers. Rivers we fish are... South Fork • New Fork Green River • Salt River Flat Creek • Red Rock Madison River Snake River Ranch Henery’s Fork We specialize in custom trips for anglers from all Gros Ventre • Teton River experience levels and want your trip to be an excellent Jackson Fork Ranch adventure. Don’t wait in a crowded fly shop, we’ll take you straight to the river! [email protected]

877-744-0522 • PO Box 7696 Jackson, WY 83002

www.focusproductions. com 2007 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 35 RODEO in Jackson and Cody Born to Buck, Born to Run By Joy Ufford Dust puffs underfoot as cowgirls and cowboys, lit- tle to large, expectant crowds, and rodeo clowns shuf- fle their boots and silently clutch hats to chests. The Dsetting sun sends shafts of warm light through the evening air and bathes everyone, whether rider, roper or racer, in a golden glow and sharpens the silhouettes of waiting horses and swaggering bulls. It is the most magical moment of the night,when a microphone crackles to life and the inspiring lyrics of our national anthem lift hearts around the arena as many sing along with the words that stir them so deeply every time—“the land of the free and the home of the brave…” Rodeo is so thoroughly American now (despite roots in vaquero and ranching traditions of old California and Mexico) that it’s mandatory to see the star-spangled banner grasped in a rodeo queen’s hand as she tears around the arena on her horse at full gal- lop, both showing off for appreciative crowds. That’s what rodeo is all about, in a way—showing off. From snaky bulls to snorting broncs, born to buck and born to run; from a glittering rhinestone-studded belt here to some turquoise fringed leather there. It’s about showing off in a good way,because there’s noth- ing wrong with living to kick higher, run faster, ride longer, rope quicker. For bull and bronc riders it’s about getting better scores, keeping a better handle on their ride. For the bulls and broncs,it’s about putting on a show trying to launch cowboys into outer space. When the sparkling gals gallop around on their stretched-out horses,burning turns around three bar- rels set in sand, it’s about speed and style. For the more taciturn ropers, it’s the quick elegance of a rope sailing through the air to catch a steer or calf in a heartbeat or two. Man, woman, or animal, it’s a great way to be alive. There’s nothing like it Rodeo hasn’t changed much over the years except

A determined cowboy (above) goes for the buzzer on an equally determined bronc; in competition born of real wrangling, a roper (right) races the clock to tie up a lassoed calf. Bob Woodall photos Bob Woodall 36 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2007 to get better. More money, better horses, meaner bulls, someone whose entire family has rodeo’d.“It’s been in faster times… Chris LeDoux and Garth Brooks have the family for so long.” taught us through their country-western music about Saddle bronc rider Bryon Lozier from Daniel, “eight-second rides” and “the roar of a Sunday crowd,” Wyoming, about 70 miles south, got caught up in JH and rodeo still has the ability to thrill us.And one thing Rodeo’s challenge at 14,with the same dream.For years that never changes about rodeo is people’s heartfelt he’s ridden at the JH Rodeo twice a week. desires to be good, even great, at something they love. “It’s just an adrenaline rush,”Lozier said of climb- The same can be said of their horses, whether ing on a bronc in the chute. “We went a lot of places, buckin’ broncs or mus- won some money…. After cled mounts; that good awhile you kind of figure feeling of doing a job well out if you’re going that way holds as true for the ani- (to the NFR) or not… You mals as it does for the have a rough ride and don’t men and women who know if you want to get ride them and the rodeo back on or not.Then you clowns who risk life and get on a good one and want limb to entertain the to do it all over again.If the crowd. There’s pride at horse kicks a lot, bucking stake, whether you’re and jumping and you’re moving on two legs or spurring in time with him, four. It’s an excitement it’s a good ride.” and adrenaline rush that Russ, Judy, and son keeps every creature in Gene recently traveled to that arena on its best— Texarkana, Arkansas, to which in many cases is its buy young bulls and Miles worst—behavior. It’s no City,Montana,for poten- surprise that people who tial broncs. They’ll “audi- love to rodeo consider it tion”new stock and decide an addiction. who stays. Interestingly JH Rodeo Rodeo is so thoroughly American there are breeding pro- For 23 years, the grams for bucking stock— Moses family (Russ, Judy, now (despite roots in vaquero horses and bulls which and Gene, plus assorted have “buck” bred into relatives) has hosted and ranching traditions of old them. Jackson’s summer twice- California and Mexico) that it’s “They have to want to weekly rodeo and made do it,”said Judy of the young Howdy Pardner the Teton County arena a mandatory to see the star-span- stock. “It’s something that’s hot destination with a a mind-set for them. They hometown atmosphere gled banner grasped in a rodeo have to prove themselves for up-and-coming rough queen’s hand.... until we’re satisfied they are stock riders, barrel racers going to be crowd-pleasers, and ropers, and for the consistently.” You're in families,friends,and visitors who crowd the bleachers. It’s a win-win situation; their stock gets the finest Rodeo Country “It’s an addiction,”said Judy Moses,adding that they feed and hay plus five to six days off a week. don’t get rich at producing rodeos.“Oh, my gosh, no.” JH Rodeo has something for everyone: the “calf Jackson’s Sadie Wheeldon has barrel raced since scramble”pits four- to 12-year-olds against each other she was four, and considers the JH Rodeo a second to catch calves tagged with ribbons for prizes; women home after all the years she’s raced and more recently, get to check out Wrangler-clad cowboys and guys check RODEO team-roped there and at other rodeos,all while helping out, well,Wrangler-clad cowgirls. The events are barrel In Jackson Hole her family run the Mill Iron Ranch south of Jackson. racing,calf roping,bull riding,saddle-bronc riding and “The JH Rodeo is a great rodeo,”she said.“We grew bronc riding, with a round of bull riding saved for last. Wednesdays & Saturdays there and learned a lot there. I’ll never quit JH Rodeo. JH Rodeo starts Saturday, May 26, at 8 p.m. during at 8:00pm All of us here are very lucky to have had it growing up; Old West Days, at the Teton County Fairgrounds. JH Rodeo Grounds • Snow King Ave. it gives you that competitive edge.” Wednesday rodeos start June 6, and both nights offer FREE PARKING “It’s a thrill,”she said of barrel racing and team rop- family fun through Labor Day weekend.Special rodeos 4 blocks from the Town Square ing.“I love them both. It’s a speed thing, an adrenaline are held during July Fourth and the Teton County Fair, Jackson Hole, Wyoming thing. Both are very addictive.” which also has a Little Buckaroo rodeo. On July 21, JH Her goal this year is to get comfortable with a new Rodeo will present a special televised bull-riding chal- CALF SCRAMBLE All kids ages 4-12 horse she brought back from Colorado in April. He’s 8, lenge with big-name riders. a Firewater Flick gelding—“a pretty big name” in the JH Rodeo is the most affordable entertainment FAMILY DISCOUNTS world of fast horses—and he might be the one to take around. Reserved seating in the covered grandstand is $40.00 her to the Dodge Circuit Finals in Pocatello this year. $15; general admission is $12 adults, $8 kids, and $40 4th of July Rodeo at 8:00pm “He’s got long,lean muscles and his breeding tells a for two parents and kids. To reserve tickets, call www.jhrodeo.com lot,”Wheeldon said.“He can run.” 307.733.2187 or 733.2805. After that her sights will be set on the National Cody Nite Rodeo Ticket Office 733-2805 Finals Rodeo in Las Vegas, not an unusual dream for Cody is called the “Rodeo Capitol of the World,”and For advance tickets and information.

www.focusproductions. com 2007 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 37 that isn’t stretching things, with talented cowboys and Cody Nite Rodeo finals will take place Aug. 31- Sept. 2 girls coming from Peru, Australia, Canada and even and their purse is nothing to sneeze at, more than Japan to test their skills in Stampede Park and vie for $90,000 last year. big cash and big buckles.And to have an exciting show Nightly events include bareback and saddle broncs, every night, the rough stock has to buck. calf and team roping, steer wrestling, break-away rop- Stock contractor Maury Tate said that’s what his ing, barrel racing and bull riding, as well as a calf horses and bulls want to do. He brings 120-130 horses scramble for the kids.Kids are also treated to trick-rop- and 120-150 bulls, which he was raising before getting ing demonstrations, meeting bullfighters, getting their the Cody Nite Rodeo contract three years ago. face painted by rodeo clowns and more. All seating is “They’re all born to buck,”he said.“It’s what they’re covered,with great views of the arena.Cody Nite Rodeo REGIONAL RODEO SCHEDULE bred to do.It’s what their great-granddaddies and great- tickets are $16 adults, $8 kids 7-12. Cody Stampede Cody, Wyoming: Cody Nite Rodeo– grandmas were bred to do.A lot of people think they’re tickets are $18. All can be reserved by calling June, July, August, nightly at 8:30 p.m. wild, but they’re not. They just don’t get handled much 1.800.207.0744 or stopping by Stampede Park, on the Cody Stampede–July 1, 2, 3 & 4 as colts. They’re bred to buck and they love to buck.” west side of Cody. He raises some bucking colts himself and also buys Let’s go rodeo! Xtreme Bulls Tour–June 30 at 6 p.m. from certain breeders. Joy Ufford, who lives in Bondurant, works part- Jackson, Wyoming: JH Rodeo– “It’s a whole industry within itself,”he said.“Some time at the Sublette Examiner in Pinedale and on a cat- Memorial Day through Labor Day, every people just raise bucking colts.” tle ranch in Bondurant. She “chases cans” with the Wednesday & Saturday at 8 p.m. Tate knows what he’s looking for.“To me the perfect Teton Barrel Racing Club in Jackson and hopes to Dubois, Wyoming: Every Friday June 15 scenario is when the horse looks really good, bucks break below a 30-second run this summer. at 8 p.m. really hard and makes a really good ride. The cowboy is For raw brawn, brahmas can’t be matched! Pinedale, Wyoming: During the Green River Rendezvous weekend, Thursday – Rodeo hasn’t changed much over Saturday, July 12-14 at 7 p.m. the years except to get better. More Triangle C Ranch: Ranch Rodeo–Friday evenings at 7:30 p.m. (20 miles west of money, better horses, meaner bulls, Dubois or 70 miles NE of Jackson, on US faster times… Hwy 26) West Yellowstone, Montana: Every not competing against the horse; the cowboy is com- weekend begnning June15 peting with the horse. Gardiner, Montana: NRA Rodeo–June “You want him to jump out there and kick—the 15 & 16 at 6 p.m. higher and harder the better.” Big Timber, Montana: June 29 at 7 p.m. Bucking bulls are an industry of their own as well, & June 30 at 6 p.m. with registration programs, futurities, and classics. A Wilsall, Montana: June 9 at 6:30 p.m. & cow with good bucking blood can bring $25,000, even June 10 at 2 p.m. (30 miles north of $50,000. Livingston, Montana, on US Hwy 89) “If your cow’s bred the right way, her calves can Red Lodge, Montana: Home of bring $2,000 a round at six months old,”Tate explained. Champions Rodeo, July 2, 3 at 6 p.m. & From Oklahoma, Tate and family own “Mo” Betta July 4 at 3 p.m. Clothing Co., which came about after he asked his mother to design some wild Western shirts when he Livingston, Montana: Livingston Roundup–July 2, 3, & 4 at 8 p.m. started rodeoing. He sold them off his back, literally, at rodeos where he first rode bulls and then roped calves. Big Piney, Wyoming: July 3 at 6 p.m., Garth Brooks is a devoted customer and wears “Mo” July 4 at 1:30p.m. Betta shirts at his concerts. Meeteetse, Wyoming: Labor Day, Tate and his family work the Cody Nite Rodeo September 3 at 1 p.m. (almost 80 years old) from June 1-Aug. 31 at 8 p.m., with the Professional Rodeo Cowboy Association-sanc- tioned Cody Stampede Rodeo (since 1937) July 1-4. THE VIRGINIAN LODGE & RV PARK Saloon & Liquor Store • Restaurant Convention/Meeting Facilities JACUZZI SUITES Family Restaurant OUTDOOR HEATED POOL “Jackson’s most friendly steakhouse” OUTDOOR HOT TUB STEAKS ~ SEAFOOD COLOR CABLE TV • RV PARK CHICKEN ~ COMBINATION PLATES GREAT SOUP & SALAD BAR 800-262-4999 OPEN 7AM BREAKFAST BUFFET 307-733-2792 LUNCH & DINNER www.virginianlodge.com FREE WIRELESS INTERNET 1 block south of Town Square • 307-733-2639 43 W. Pearl St. • corner of Cache & Pearl ★ A Taste of the Old West ★ Jackson, Wyoming

38 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2007 Horseback Riders Icons of the West

by Bob Woodall here is west, and there is The West. Not a direc- tion, but a place steeped in history and full of Ticons and symbols.And the one icon epitomizing the West is the cowboy astride his horse,riding into the sunset. If you’re in search of that connection with the West, why not saddle up and go for a ride? Although loping off into the horizon may not be on your agenda, finding a horse to mount up and ride couldn’t be easier.No matter where one travels,trail rides A pack string descends the trail into a pristine lake nestled deep in Wyoming’s Absarokas Range. are available. And there are many ways to indulge one- self. The simplest is a two-hour ride. If that leaves you Now that you’re hankering to hit the trail, what’s A proper dude ranch regales its guests with the hankering for more, consider half-day or full-day rides. next? romance of the West for a full week. Dudes are pam- For the ultimate Western experience, though, sign on for Well, dress the part. You don’t need to go out and pered in a rustic setting with a full plate of activities, a multi-day pack trip or a full week at a dude ranch. dude yourself up in full cowboy regalia, but a few items including daily trail rides,cookouts,campfires,Western Never been on a horse? “Not a problem,” says will make the ride more enjoyable. Cowboy boots are sing-a-longs,and rodeos.Ranches tailor their weeks for Marilyn Dahle of Yellowstone Outfitters. “Seventy-five best, but any closed-toed shoes are fine. Sandals, how- singles, couples, families, and groups. percent of our riders have never been on a horse; it’s fun ever, are not recommended. Long pants and a hat are You’re smack dab in the middle of The West,so take to take inexperienced advisable, and because advantage of it! Whether it’s for two hours or a whole people and see the big the weather can change week. smiles on their faces and rapidly here in the real Saddle up—and happy trails to you! the satisfaction when West, bring a raincoat. they learn to ride.” Also on the short list are Ye l l owston e O ut f it te rs insect repellant, sun- leads riders into the screen, sunglasses, water Teton Wilder ness, where bottle, camera, and spectacular views of the binoculars. Tetons unfold around Next, decide how every bend. much time you really Wilderness areas are have for spending in the only accessible on foot or saddle. Like most outfit- horseback. So why ride a ters, Yellowstone horse? “The thrill of just A rider looks over the edge of Shoshone Pass. Outfitters offers two- being on the back of a hour,half-day,and full- horse,”says Dahle “is part of the Western adventure that day trips. If that’s not enough, they also provide three- people are after.” and six-day pack trips, as well as Orvis-endorsed fish- “Agreed,”notes Cameron Garnick, of the Triangle C ing trips to the Yellowstone River. And if you want the Dude Ranch. But that’s not all. “You can see much Western adventure without spending the whole time on more,” he points out, “because you are not having to a horse, check out the overnight wagon train trips. watch the trail. You can look around at the 360-degree Spend half of the trip on the wagon and the rest on Guided Horseback Trail Rides view, enjoy the smell of the sage, the sounds of the for- horseback. Campfire cookouts come complete with a est, listen to streams, and drink in the landscape—and singing cowboy serenading campers by a fire under the 2 hour - $42.00 Half Day - $65.00 All Day - $120.00 All Day Rides include a Sack Lunch physical limitations can be overcome.”Traveling at 4-5 star-filled sky. miles an hour, horses can cover lots of territory, and in Now, if a couple days in the saddle have not reined Yellowstone a short time riders can be deep into the mountains. in your desire for an Old West vacation, consider a stay Plus,“you are doing it the way it was done by Indians, at a dude ranch,the ultimate Western experience.In the Outfitters mountain men, and cowboys,”says Garnick. 1880s the term “dude” was applied to dressed-up city TETON WILDERNESS - HORSEBACK TRAIL RIDES Up the trail at Togwotee Mountain Lodge, cowboys slickers, especially to Easterners vacationing in the & WAGONS WEST - COVERED WAGON TREKS head up Angle Mountain, where Jeff Golightly feels the West and who affected elaborate “Wild West” getups as views are “most striking and dramatic, the entire Teton paying visitors at a “dude ranch.”While some places call 543-2418 Range and all of Jackson Hole is laid out in front of you.” themselves “guest” ranches nowadays, seek out ones { Local calls from Jackson } Acording to Golightly, Togwotee typically takes that have not dropped the “dude” from their name: 1-800-447-4711 smaller groups on their one-hour, two-hour, half- and those will be the ranches offering the most authentic Permittee of Bridger Teton National Forest and

Bob Woodall \ Triangle C Ranch photos \ Triangle Bob Woodall full-day rides, making for a more personal experience. experience. Teton Wilderness Area • Outfitter License #085

www.focusproductions. com 2007 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 39 JACKSON 83001 Wyoming by Cal Glover Oh, just go get lost, will ya? Ye a h , p a rd n e r, com e w it h m e . L e t’s ge t l ost for awhile together, go back a few years.To a Jackson’s Hole of years gone by.In fact,let’s go all the way back to 1914, the year Jackson Hole became a town. Four locals con- tributed to deed a piece of land, and it’s been known as “The Square” ever since. So let’s just start there. Take a cool drink from the fountain in the center of the Square and gaze up at the Bud Boller bronze of the cowboy on the buckin’ bronc. Look familiar? That same rendition’s on our Wyoming license plates,and eventually might be on the Wyoming quarter ifCongress gets around to it.The steed is a famous rodeo horse named Steamboat.Notice the cow- boy “fanning” with his hat. They won’t let cowboys do that anymore, as it might induce a bucking bronc to turn in a desired direction. Say, towards a judge who’s actually eyeballing the rider instead of cowgirls. The tall trees above you are cottonwoods, Wyoming’s state tree. But look around at the four antler In fact, this is the 51st anniver- sary year for this, the longest- running Western shootout in the country. We hear they use blanks, although the local cemetery is in a pretty spot in case they foul up. arches on each corner. Nah, we didn’t club “those they’re stunt doubles.) Some 30 feature films have been poor deer” to death. The elk antlers are shed every shot here in Jackson Hole. year, and many were fed into the arches from 1953- So just what is Jackson Hole? William Sublette, of 1969. Every year, on the Saturday before Memorial mountain-man fame,named this 40-mile-long by 8-to- Day, the east side of the Square is the site of our 15-mile-wide valley after his partner, Davey Jackson, annual elk antler auction. Last year 7,319 pounds while trappin’ beaver, or “soft gold,”in these parts back went for an average of $10.42 a pound. Elk antler in the early 1800s. artists will take ‘em back home and carve belt buck- A quick trip back to the present. That big building les, bolo ties, and make chandeliers and furniture about a couple hundred yards to the north? That’s our out of those “horns.” rec. center. Visitors from out of town can use it. It has Throughout the summer, six evenings a week, athletic courts, a lap pool, kids’ pool, Jacuzzi, sauna, there’s an old-fashioned Western shootout on the steam room, and the coolest three-story water slide for southeast corner. In fact, this is the 51st anniver- kids of all ages. sary year for this, the longest-running Western Back to the Square with ya. Wander through some shootout in the country. It starts at 6:15 p.m., but of our art galleries, view glimpses of our Western her- get there early and find a good place to stand. We itage captured in paintings, sculptures, and photos. hear they use blanks,although the local cemetery is Now,it’s free to look, but you might notice they do not in a pretty spot in case they foul up. give these things away. From the northeast corner stroll down Deloney Have some fun.Find a local,ask,“Can you direct me Street a hundred yards. Look at that old red barn, to George Washington Memorial Park?” Chances are the door on the east side.Hollywood took that door you’ll get a blank stare. Most locals don’t know it, but Locals and tourists alike enjoy stagecoach rides away in 1980, hinged a fake one on so Clint that is the Square. Stand across from the Cowboy Bar. around Jackson’s historic town square (above); Eastwood and Will Smith (not that Will Smith) Look at the plaque bearing John Colter’s name. You’ve hikers (above right) take in valley vistas, the town could come crashing out in the big fight scene of probably come to our valley because you like the great

itself, and Snow King’s fields of wildflowers. Any Which Way You Can. (OK, watch closely— outdoors. Do you like it enough to do what John Colter McKoy (hikers) (three); Wade Photos: Bob Woodall 40 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2007 Wrangling on the Walton Ranch reflects the valley’s cowboy heritage, and Jackson’s nightlife reveals another side of a true Western community. did? He left the Lewis and Clark Expedition to be the Oh, all right, just one from our ol’ pal Jeff raff from Vegas moved in. Jackson was written up in first white man to venture into our valley.Starting from Foxworthy: “If you consider it a sport to gather your Fortune magazine as ‘the second toughest town in the the Missouri River,Private Colter traveled 500 miles,by food by drilling through 18 inches of ice and sitting United States after Butte, Montana.’” himself in the late fall of 1807. He was the first white there all day hoping that the food will swim by, you Walk down the hallway leading to the Cowboy man to see the geysers of Yellowstone. Hard to say how might live in Wyoming.” Steakhouse beneath the bar. Black and white pictures he felt about them, since the earliest map depicts If you’re 21 or older, saunter on into the Cowboy will take you back to years gone by.And check out those Yellowstone as “Colter’s Hell.” Bar,which has been a landmark in our town since 1936. spurs. In the early years of dude ranching, the rodeos Some visitors will ask us what we do durin’ our long No bar stools. That’s right, ya sit on saddles. Now in the were the big social events of the summer, occurring on winters? Well,we have skiing and snowboarding,snow- old days, up until the late Fifties, these watering holes July Fourth, the first three days of August, and Labor mobiling and dog-sledding, but ya’ll might be interest- were also called “The Joints.” There was gambling. Day Weekend. These days they take place Wednesday ed in knowing that we set a record in January of 1979, According to dude rancher Jack Huyler,in his book And and Saturday nights throughout summer. The funniest when it got to 63 degrees.Ah,shoot,I done forgot to add That’s the Way It Was In Jackson’s Hole,“Whenever there thing you’ve seen in a long while will be the kids chas- that little “–” thingy before the number. That makes it, was a civic project in need of funds, we’d go to the ing the calf or the goat, grabbing for the elusive ribbon um, 95 degrees…below freezing! ‘Joints’for help; and we’d get it.That changed when riff- on its tail. The rodeo hasn’t changed much since dude

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www.focusproductions. com 2007 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 41 ranching picked up in the Twenties and Thirties. (Now don’t do what Bill Webb, owner of Green Let’s stay lost for a bit longer, whaddya say? Let’s River Outfitters, swears is a true story. These two gals mosey north. Those old brown buildings are original. were on the phone with Bill, asking what they should Davies Reid was Jackson Drug for many a year, fea- bring. Ol’ Bill said, “Nuthin’ really...just your staples.” tured homemade ice cream. Walk past it, toward the They showed up with, you got it, a box of staples!) Teton Theater, opened in 1941. Just think back and Hey, it’s kinda fun hanging lost back here in the imagine a Saturday summer day in 1953,how the town old days of Jackson’s Hole. Let’s stay just a bit more. folk looked as they lined up to see the famous Western, Turn around and head back south, toward Snow King. Shane, also filmed in our valley. That ski area opened in 1939. In late July we’ll have a That’s the Anvil Motel across the street, on the cor- running race to the top of Snow King, starting from ner. Let’s say that in 1917 you drove your buckboard wagon from your ranch to town to get supplies. The Built in 1941, The Wort Anvil was where Pop Deloney’s General Store stood. Your supplies came to more than you had,and Pop The Jackson Hole Playhouse continues its almost burned down in 1980 wasn’t around.Why,you’d just leave a note and settle up decades-long tradition of staging family orient- next time you came to town.That’s the way it was done. ed entertainment. as shown in the pictures and news clips adorning the hallway’s walls. Valley fire- men, though, saved the alpine slide wooden bar laden with its 2,032 silver dollars.

the Square. Think you could you beat Tom Borschel’s 2001 record of 22:58? We’ll let you ski for free if you alpine can do it! miniature golf Walk past the Cowboy, take a right. Have dinner at or take a stroll through the Silver Dollar Dining Room night skiing & in the Wort Hotel. Lots of wonderful moments cap- snowboarding tured in black-and-white pictures around the Western-themed room.Built in 1941,The Wort almost burned down in 1980 as shown in the pictures and news clips adorning the hallway’s walls. Valley fire- Looking for men, though, saved the wooden bar laden with its 2,032 silver dollars. family fun? In fact,you might just head in there.Walking through near 90 years of history, why you just mighta’ Snow King Resort offers exciting worked up a thirst.Or you might wanna grab a bite and summer and winter recreation for the stay lost for awhile longer. “King Tubes” Come back when you’re ready,will ya? snow tube park whole family! A year round, full-service resort offering hotel, 1-4 bedroom mountain biking Cal Glover runs tours of Yellowstone and Grand condominiums and the luxurious Love Teton parks via Callowishus Park Touring Company, Ridge Resort Lodges. Packages available. at (307) 413-5483. Cal has written three locally set novels,including A Grizzly Death in Yellowstone.When 307.733.5200 | 800.522.5464 he's not touring or writing,he mans his post as Master www.snowking.com of Time/Space/Dimension. NOTEWORTHY MUSIC skiing & BOOKING AGENCY snowboarding Love Ridge • The finest live music acts in Resort Lodges the region • Jazz, Swing, Rock, Country, Located in the town of Jackson at Snow King Mountain. From the Solos, Duos,Trios & Big Band town square, take Cache Street south to Snow King Avenue, turn left and continue to Resort. • Impeccable references SUMMER ACTIVITIES: alpine slide, alpine miniature golf, scenic chair rides, hiking, Michael Calabrese • 307-733-5459 patio dining, snack shack, mountain biking. WINTER ACTIVITIES: skiing, snowboarding, night skiing, King Tubes snow tube park, ice skating, and more! P.O. Box 289 • Wilson, WY 83014 E-mail: [email protected]

42 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2007 The World-Famous Snow King Resort by Samantha Worthington Nature, the town’s only real competition, is just minutes from downtown Jackson.The summit of Snow King Mountain, dazzlingly cloaked in wildflowers, boasts one of the valley’s most breathtaking views of the Teton Range. And it’s just six blocks south of the town square. The National Elk Refuge can be seen to the north- east and the Gros Ventre Range’s landmark, The is right here in Jackson Hole Sleeping Indian, rests northeast of the refuge. Even Yellowstone National Park can be viewed off in the dis- 734-0000 tance. Short nature hikes start from the top, where a 140 N Cache, 1 block North of the Square picnic area provides an idyllic lunch spot. Forest Service naturalists, who likely will enrich your knowl- edge of the area’s flora and fauna and distant mountain GET LOST at... ranges, guide hikes there. And that summit is there for everyone. A chair lift whisks riders from the town’s elevation of 6,180 feet to the crest’s 7,751 feet in a matter of minutes. More hearty visitors,of course,can ascend Snow King’s slope Jackson's only GIANT MAZE! Too hot? Get totally cool with SQUIRT GUN FUN! Also try our BUNGEE TRAMPOLINE! (307)734-0455 45 E. Snowking Ave. Familyit’s Fun Best! at The alpine slide (above) keeps the thrill in the hill! Hikers and bikers (left) share the trails ~1st Annual~ accessed from Snow King. SacredSacred GroundGround A chair lift whisks riders NativeNative AmericanAmerican Fine Art Show from the town’s elevation Fine Art Show of 6,180 feet to the crest’s 7,751 feet in a matter of minutes.

along its trails and traverses, on foot or on bike. But hikers will need anywhere from 45 to 90 minutes depending on fitness and acclimatization. Scenic views are guaranteed either way, and the weary traveler can hop the lift back down the hill for a mere dollar. July 20, 21 & 22, 2007 For those seeking an additional thrill, the Alpine Virginian Convention Center Slide offers an exhilarating and scenic way to descend Jackson Hole, Wyoming the mountain. Riders can control their speed down the 2,500-foot slide that snakes through trees and flowers. Featuring well known Finally, folks of all ages can entertain themselves Award Winning Native Artists for hours at the base of the mountain by putting their representing over 30 tribes. way around an 18-hole mini-golf course near Snow Painting • Jewelry Pottery • King’s lodge. Textiles • Sculpture • Beadwork • No doubt about it: this is the Old and the New West. • Baskets And More. For information call (307) 733-5200 or go to www.snowking.com. For more information call Samantha Worthington left Jackson Hole last win- Deb Race at 307-690-7130 ter for to pursue her freelance writing or e-mail: career. She spends most of her time hatching a plot to [email protected]

Photos: Bob Woodall (play); Wade McKoy (two) (play); Wade Photos: Bob Woodall return to the mountains she adores.

www.focusproductions. com 2007 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 43 TETON VILLAGE 83025 Wyoming By Lauren M. Whaley Teton Village’s Jackson Hole Mountain Resort may be most famous for its steep and deep skiing, but in summer, the surrounding valley overflows with wildflowers, blue skies, and countless activities for the entire family. With turnkey adventures and ready resources for each activity, “The Village” is making it increasingly easy to spend an entire day there exploring the mountains, dining, shopping, and sampling new activities before retiring to a cozy mountain room.The light is still bright and glowing at 8 p.m.during much of the summer,mak- ing perfect days seem endless. “We’re not Disney, but we do have the convenience of purchasing multiple options in one go,”says Anna Olson,Jackson Hole Mountain Resort spokeswoman.The resort will offer tickets good for different activities, like rock-wall climbing, nature hiking, With turnkey adventures and ready resources for and riding the Bridger Gondola.“You pick and choose,”she says. The resort’s Bridger Center makes a great base camp. Guests can easily walk or each activity, “The Village” is making it increasingly take public transportation to it from rentals and hotels to embark upon a summer— easy to spend an entire day there exploring the or at least a day—of discovery.Armed with an array of maps, guides, and equipment suggestions,the Bridger Center staff will help you create individualized excursions for mountains, dining, shopping, and sampling new yourself,friends,and family. activities before retiring to a cozy mountain room. But, before deciding, whet your appetite with these offerings: Bridger Gondola While you won’t be boarding the now-decommissioned aerial tram (that’ll have to wait until the new 100-passenger tram debuts in December 2008), you can ride the Bridger Gondola to 9,095 feet. The fit and adventurous, of course, can hike from the Gondola to the tram dock, if they’re so inclined. Unlimited gondola rides cost $18. On the way up, gaze below.You might spot moose, deer, or even a black bear foraging on the mountainside.Above, you may spy bald eagles soaring over hik- ers winding to the top and mountain bikers barreling down.The gondola is open May 26 - Oct. 7. High-season hours (June 14-September 2) are 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. For the rest of the season, it’s open 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. Bridger Restaurants The $9 million new restaurants,boasting both a deli and fine dining,opened this summer at the top of the Gondola, just below the Headwall. The Headwall Deli is open all day, matching the Gondola’s hours of opera- tion. It serves hot and cold drinks, including beer and wine, as well as snacks and ice cream. Housed in the same building,the Couloir Restaurant offers a sit-down lunch, a full bar, and outdoor deck service. From 6 p.m. to 9 p.m., Thursday through Sunday,guests can enjoy a four-course dinner.Diners will sample food made by former Jenny Lake Lodge and Four Seasons chef John “Wes” Hamilton while soaking up a contemporary Western fine-dining experience in a mountain set- ting with stunning views. “Not only are you going to be wowed by your dinner, you can have a panoramic view of the mountains,”says Olson. The restaurant will also cater private functions as well as host groups and weddings. Hiking After deli ice cream or before a dinner date (for which “resort casual” attire is fine), take a short, naturalist-led tour into Cody Bowl or stroll the Valley Trail into Grand Teton National Park or make the trek up to the 10,450-foot summit of . There are 468 species of plants within the resort’s boundaries, according to David Gonzales’ Jackson Hole: On a Grand Scale—more than enough to distract

A cyclist (left) grinds up the resort’s challenging bike trail while a youngster (above) tackles the Bridger Center’s bungee/trampoline at the base of the mountain. McKoy (bike); Jackson Hole Resort (bungee) Photos: Wade

www.focusproductions. com WWW.JACKSONHOLE.COM

The Jackson Hole Mountain Resort and Teton Village offer unparalleled summer scenery and activities for the entire family. Whether it is a scenic gondola ride to 9,095 feet, a bounce on the bungee trampoline, a trip up the Climbing wall or down a single-track on a mountain bike, there is something for everyone. In addition we have miles of incredible hiking, a 9-hole Frisbee golf course, kids fishing pond, Kid’s camp, and extraordinary shopping and dining experiences. 307-739-2654

Bridger Restaurant - A dining experience not to be missed, located at the top of the Bridger Kids Ranch Day Camp - Teton Village is a place of wonder for all ages. For children aged three Gondola in a spectacular setting at 9,095 feet. The Restaurant will debut this summer with lunch years to fifth grade, we offer a day camp with exciting learning adventures. Activities include and dinner at the Couloir Restaurant and Bar, offering fine dining with a contemporary western hikes, outdoor sports, and science and art projects. Daycare is also available for children six flair and unparalleled views. The Headwall deli will serve gourmet snacks, sandwiches and baked months through two years. 307.739.2788 goods as well as beer and wine. For reservations and information 307-739-2675

Jackson Hole Resort Lodging - Guest registration is conveniently located in Teton Village, offering Jackson Hole Sports - Teton Village’s Full Service Bike Rental Center & Outdoor Shop in the Bridger a variety of condominiums, townhomes and luxury homes perfect for families, weddings, and Center. IronHorse Bike Rentals offering, high performance full suspension mountain bikes, Hybrid small groups. Summer packages with scenic gondola rides and other local activities available. bikes for the trail or pathways, junior bikes, kids trailers and strollers. Free Teewinot lift access with Visit our concierge desk to arrange your activities and ask about the local referral discount.. all full day bike rentals. We also offer lift & activity tickets, Frisbee golf maps and gear, mountain Visit www.jhrl.com or call 800-443-8613 or 307-733-3990. hiking maps and extensive Village information. Our retail store offers technical mountain wear, shoes & accessories, resort wear for men & women, & a great kids and teen department. 307-739-2687 Some trails and hikes are just plain enjoyable. Resort gondola riders can quickly leave the frenzy behind—and below! even the most disciplined hiker.Watch the clock,though, directly into Grand Teton National Park. Advanced rid- launch point faster could mean more rides per day. and the climate. High-altitude weather changes quickly ers can bike all the way to the summit on the Solitude from sunshine to thunderstorms and vice versa, so pack Road or stop midway to ride back down. No downhill Disc Golf a jacket—and sunscreen—even for a short walk. riding allowed from the summit, though! Ask a resort If you prefer making things fly through the air over Some folks hike down the mountain trail,a distance employee for a trail map. attaching wings to yourself, play nine holes of Frisbee of 7.2 miles,while others bike up.Down-riding the gon- golf on the free course near the base of the resort. dola is free. Paragliding Bring your own discs or buy them at one of the If you prefer wind in your hair to dirt on your resort’s many shops. Mountain Biking tires, Jackson Hole Paragliding will gladly take you to Playing is free. The resort recently created a bike trail system that the top of the gondola for a sky ride all the way down. includes intermediate and advanced riding, with miles Their certified pilots have logged hundreds of Rentals and Purchases of rolling single-track. Ride your own or rent a moun- hours flying in the Tetons and are eager to introduce With so many places to recreate, Jackson Hole tain bike from Jackson Hole Sports,where you can also first timers to the unique experience of tandem Mountain Resort naturally houses an abundance of purchase a lift ticket to transport your bike up paragliding. shops that rent gear for said recreation. These include Teew inot chair lif t. “It’s very, very popular,” Olson says. And it may Teton Village Sports, Wildernest Sports, Jackson Hole For a leisurely ride,take the Moose-Wilson pathway even be better without the tram. Getting to the Sports, Jack Dennis Sports, and the Hole in Snowboard Shop. Nick Wilson’s sells Jackson Hole Mountain Resort logo apparel. EXCLUSIVE PROPERTIES Mountain Sports School The year-round Mountain Sports School operates JACKSON Lovingly built custom home with Teton Views! You will be right at all the “sporty”activities in Teton Village. They oversee home in this stunning horse prop- mountain biking and trail orientation classes, for erty North of town. Spacious, example. They also offer other fun recreational activi- open great room and kitchen with ties at the base of the mountain, including bungee stainless appliances, double oven trampolining, fishing-rod rentals for the pond behind and 6 burner gas range. Large the Mangy Moose, and rock-wall climbing. master suite, beautiful landscap- Additionally, they help operate the summer yurt and ing, patio and decks makes for private adventure guides. gracious living indoors and out. 1 bed/1 ba guest apartment. Sleep in a Yurt 2 + acrs. 3 bed/3 ba. $1,400,000. Sleep over in the Tetons at the Rock Springs Yurt— the Village’s version of an upscale tent with Mongolian origins.The modern Rock Springs yurt houses a wood- TETON VALLEY burning stove, eight bunk beds, a kitchen, and a large Dream Home site on the dining table. This unusual adventure is both rugged 5th Fairway of Teton Reserve, Teton Valley’s new and luxurious. Reaching the yurt requires a 2.5-mile Premiere Golf community. hike up a trail that gains 1,400 feet in elevation. But Best value in a Golf once there, your only responsibilities are enjoying the Frontage lot at $348,900 scenery and your friends. Expert guides cook your food, stoke the stove, and even do the dishes. Not a bad Jack Delay, Associate Broker “Your Ace in the Hole” tradeoff for an exhilarating hike. 2007 President Teton County Porters are also available. Board of Realtors P.O. Box 734 Teton Village, WY 83025 Private Adventure Guide For those who detest the idea of narrowing the [email protected] choices from so many amazing activities, hire an 307-690-8404 adventure guide. The guide will make these choices

easy so you can enjoy your day without the stress of Photos: Henry Holdsworth (hike); Jackson Hole Resort (Gondola) planning it. 46 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2007 Your guide will meet you and up to five of your Entertainment friends or family at your hotel in the morning. He or Daily,check out the Mangy Moose Saloon—the famous she will plan the day for you, which could entail a guid- Teton Village bar with top-name,live entertainment. BASECAMP ed excursion at Teton Village, horseback riding from Throughout the summer, visit Walk Festival Hall to the Village into Grand Teton National Park,or simply an (JACKSON STYLE) hear music from the Grand Teton Music Festival series. itinerary that you complete on your own.The guide will Witness epic orchestra performances under the music even transport you back to your lodgings. direction of maestro Donald Runnicles, only the third Kid’s Ranch person to hold the position in the festival’s celebrated 45-year history. Got kids? If you visit early in the season,definitely take in the Teton Village is well equipped with staff and facili- Second Annual Mountain Festival over Memorial Day ties to handle wee ones from as young as six months weekend, which kicks off the summer with live music, old. The Kid’s Ranch operates June 18 - September 2, discounts, and plenty of food. right next to the Bridger Gondola. Licensed day-care providers lead kids on adven- Sustenance Sampling You could spend an entire After all the day’s activities, hunger pangs are like- ly.Luckily, there are more restaurants than days to dine vacation at this full-fledged at them. The Mangy Moose Market and Grocery and the Teton Village Market both stock an assortment of year-round resort, and judging food staples and wines. WWW.TETONLODGE.COM from the passel of things to do For those who would rather choose their wine from a list, Teton Village doesn’t disappoint. The hotels har- and see, maybe you should. bor fine-dining establishments like the Cascade Grill House and Spirits in the Teton Mountain Lodge, which tures in Teton Village while focusing on the nature, his- specializes in such succulent native dishes as smoked tory, and science of Jackson Hole. Junior trekkers will bison carpaccio, Henry’s Fork trout, and molasses- hike, play sports, undertake science and arts projects, seared elk. and play in the water. At the Gamefish Restaurant in the Snake River On Team Extreme, older kids may go mountain Lodge & Spa, try the pomegranate-braised lamb shank biking,horseback riding,kayaking,even rock climbing! Experience authentic Wyoming or Five-spiced Duck Breast. The Alpenrose restaurant “They’ll be able to do all the things that are avail- in the Alpenhof hotel features a rabbit loin braised in a from Teton Village, only 1 mile able to the public with their camp counselors,”Olson piquant juniper sauce and a savory sautéed elk loin to Grand Teton National Park, the says. “It’s an activity-based day program with coun- with fresh berries. selors who are well-trained, good fun people.” gateway to Yellowstone National Park. If game meat is off your plate, visit Massa Sushi, Peaceful Pursuits housed in the Best Western and run by a couple who Teton Mountain Lodge, slope side serve the fresh fish themselves. For some, a vacation is about being pampered, and to Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, The Village boasts plenty of tranquil treatments. If you With all its amenities and activities, not to mention offers elegant full-service hotel find it necessary to get away while getting away,the Spa being a gateway to Grand Teton National Park, Teton at Teton Mountain Lodge provides its signature hot- amenities with the intimate Village begs for a long stay. You could spend an entire stone massage with Snake River stones and restorative vacation at this full-fledged year-round resort, and charm of a mountain retreat. oils. The spa also offers a selection of massages judging from the passel of things to do and see, maybe designed to treat mountain-weary muscles. you should. Among its other amenities, the Snake River Lodge Enjoy unparalleled outdoor adventure & Spa offers spa treatments, followed by rain showers, Besides writing full time from her home office's then relax in a lodge room, junior suite, Jacuzzis, and access to its top-of-the-line fitness center. antique drafting table, Lauren M. Whaley delights in or one, two or three bedroom suite jumping into mountain lakes, climbing rock, and If a spa treatment each day is on your itinerary, ❅ Newly renovated indoor and dancing in town after a day of wilderness adventure. sample treatments at the Teton Club Spa and the Four outdoor pools and hot tubs Seasons Resort Spa. ❅ Expanded mountain lodge spa offers massages, facials, body wraps & healing therapies ❅ Cascade Grill House & Spirits offers COME AND STAY WITH US. mouth watering New Western Cuisine Enjoy a comfortable, pleasant and inexpensive stay ❅ In-room dining at the base of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. ❅ On-Site "Adventure Specialist" to help Enjoy the magnificent and breathtaking country. plan your next memorable experience.

1 or 2 persons $60.00 3 or 4 Persons $74.00

Box 546, Teton Village, Wyoming 83025 • 307-733-3415 • FAX: 307-739-1142 • TETON MOUNTAIN LODGE http://www.hostelx.com Where Luxury Meets Adventure Call 1-800-631-6270 for reservations.

www.focusproductions. com 2007 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 47 CODYWyoming 82414

By Barbara Foote Colvert The Buffalo Bill Reservoir, a dream for anglers and photographers. Cody,Wyoming, is a big little town. Big in history, big in perspective, big in style, big in things to do indoors and outdoors. The town of nearly 9,000 takes its name from founding father William Frederick “Buffalo Bill”Cody—scout,marksman,hunter,Pony Express Rider,world-renowned showman, and visionary.Cody saw in this northwestern corner of Wyoming bound- less opportunity and invested all that he was and all that he earned to make the region flower.And flower, it has, into a premier travel hub and vacation spot for fam- ilies, history buffs, and connoisseurs of the great outdoors! Yellowstone National Park, established in 1872 as the world’s first national park, is a mere 52-miles east of Cody. The road from Cody to Yellowstone is known today as the Buffalo Bill Scenic Highway,and Teddy Roosevelt justifiably called it “the most scenic 50 miles in America.” That it is, with guest ranches offering scenic trail rides through landscape also perfect for hiking or photographing. Countless unique rock formations along the byway wear historic names such as “Holy City” and “Old Old Trail Town rests right on Cody’s original town site. Woman and Her Cabin.” Old Trail Town,resting right on Cody’s orig- But a glance in any direction from Cody also reveals plenty of other scenic drives The historic Irma inal town site, hearkens back to a classic originating right from town.The Chief Joseph Scenic Highway and the incomparable Western era.Twenty-six weather-scarred build- Beartooth Pass, for example, or nearby towns such as historic Meeteese and Red Hotel, built by ings transported from around the Big Horn Lodge,Powell and its Homesteader Museum,and Ralston,which celebrates an annu- Basin contain thousands of artifacts from al Rendezvous and Mule Days, are all accessed from Cody.And at the park’s east gate Cody himself in Indian trappers, frontier settlers, and cowboys sits Pahaska Teepee, where Buffalo Bill entertained friends and dignitaries from who lived in the region from 1879-1901. Old around the world. 1902 and named Trail Town also harbors historic gravesites, Ranching is still a Western way of life in the Cody region. for his youngest among them the final resting place for Jeremiah “Liver Eating” Johnson. Johnson, of course, was daughter on the brought to the big screen by Robert Redford. On the outskirts of town, visitors and occasion of her rodeoers alike gather for the famous Cody Night Rodeo, where local and regional cow- engagement, pokes perform every night throughout June, July,and August.The Cody Stampede,held four houses a cherry- nights during Fourth of July celebrations, fea- wood bar that tures pro-rodeo riders in world-class competi- tion.No wonder Cody is known as the Rodeo Queen Victoria Capital of the World! And speaking of our All-American holiday, gifted to the a Cody 4th will dazzle young and old like none other, with three parades and a fabulous fire- famous showman. works show at the close of four days of pure Western fun. 48 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2007 At the Buffalo Bill Dam Visitor Center, just six miles from Cody, Buffalo Bill’s remarkable foresight is further revealed through his vision to bring water to the town and the region. The center also recounts the dam’s construction, and houses displays about the Big Horn Basin and surrounding areas. But it’s Cody itself that really calls out to travelers. In the curve of Sheridan Avenue lies the Buffalo Bill Historical Center, home to five separate museums encompassing more than 300,000 square feet. The original Buffalo Bill Museum was erected on the current site of the Cody Chamber of Commerce in 1917,just ten years after Cody’s death at the age of 71. Moved to its current site with construction of the Whitney Gallery of Western Art in 1959, the BBHC also houses the Plains Indian Museum, the Cody Firearms Museum, and the Draper Museum of Natural History. Take a break in the BBHC coffee shop or bistro, or peruse books, Native American jewelry, fine art prints, and other items of local interest in the gift shop. Museum visitors can relax knowing that a pass is good for a second day if they haven’t seen enough of what James Michener rightly called “The Smithsonian of the West.” The wide streets of “Downtown Cody,” lined with galleries and shops carrying Western art, photography, furniture, jewelry, clothing, keepsakes, and more, welcome the tired, the hungry, and the curious.“Where’s the beef?” Cody’s range of fine restau- rants will supply the answer, and whet the appetite of even the most discerning palates. The historic Irma Hotel, built by Cody himself in 1902 and named for his youngest daughter on the occasion of her engagement, sits in the center of town. The famous cherry-wood bar is one of the most photographed sites in Cody, a gift from Queen Victoria to the famous showman.Outside the Irma, the Cody Gunfighters entertain vis- itors nightly throughout the summer season, reenacting famous gun battles and shootouts by Western characters you will recognize. To enjoy a historic overview of the town, hop aboard the Cody Trolley for a charm- ing tour through Cody’s past and present. Relax listening to music in Cody City Park during the free summer concert series; book a trip on the Shoshone River for white- water rafting, kayaking, or hire a fly-fishing guide; replenish your gear for hiking, mountain biking, rock or ice climbing, or cross-country skiing. Cody also boasts a state-of-the-art aquatic and sports center in case the great out- doors (or the trekkers themselves) need a break. For lodging in the many excellent bed and breakfasts, hotels and motels, and for details of seasonal events throughout the year, contact: www.codychamber.org or www.yellowstonecountry.org William Frederick Cody received the Congressional Medal of Honor for bringing the West to the world. Come to Cody and see why! Barbara Foote Colvert has worked for more than 30 years as a graphic designer, journalist,writer, and editor,and has been an award-winning newspaper lifestyle edi- tor and columnist. Her books include Harvest of Hope–Family Farming and Farming Families and Resolutions.

The West’s heart is revealed in a pack trip along the Shoshone River. Photos: Wade McKoy (top two); Bob Woodall (bottom & right) McKoy (top two); Bob Woodall Photos: Wade 2007 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 49 Buffalo Bill Historical Center

Native American history and color is preserved at the Buffalo Bill Historical Center.

worthy of a visit as anything the state “The Smithsonian of the West.” has to offer: The Buffalo Bill The center’s newest wing, the Draper Museum of Historical Center. Natural History, portrays the natural world of the Set in historic Cody, Wyoming, Greater Yellowstone region. Trailing down the circular the Buffalo Bill Historical Center walkway, visitors are transported from the alpine tun- (BBHC) invites visitors to embark on dra to the grassy plains, their journey accompanied by a virtual expedition through the the far-off cry of wolves, the crackle of a forest fire, or a American West. With over 300,000 gust of wind whisking through the pine trees.Along the Up close and personal with bison—safely—at the BBHC. square feet of floor space on three way, one develops a keen understanding of how levels, the center presents a breath- humans interact with their environment,from the early Wyoming’s grandeur, its peaks and plains, its taking view of the West with an entire museum dedi- days of explorers right up to the present. waters and wonders, its people and its panoramas cated to each of five themes: the natural wonders of the The first new natural-history museum of the 21st beckon millions of visitors every year.Very few indoor Yellowstone region, the legend of Buffalo Bill Cody, the century, the Draper employs high-tech and interactive destinations would dare compete with the vastness living culture of the Plains Indian, the fine art of audio and visual display panels, as well as open spaces that is Wyoming and the West, culturally and physical- Western masters, and the marvelous story of the evo- for hands-on entertainment and education for the ly. But one institution, one edifice, one place has man- lution of the firearm.No wonder this world-class insti- whole family. aged to house a host of richness arguably every bit as tution was proclaimed by the late James Michener as Understanding the Western environment sets the Photos courtesy BBHC ²"XFTPNF³ ɧ F#FTU4UPQ0O:PVS5SJQ5P:FMMPXTUPOF

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50 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2007 stage in the Buffalo Bill Museum for a fascinating look fine art of engraving and revolutionary advancements at the life and times of William F.“Buffalo Bill” Cody. in engineering are among the surprising elements of Visitors of all ages are inspired by the story of this the story told with the world’s most comprehensive col- courageous scout, who achieved fame throughout the lection of American arms, as well as European arms world as a showman and helped forge a civilization on dating to the sixteenth century. the plains and in the mountains of the West. In addition to its five museums, the Buffalo Bill The timeless beat of the powwow and the powerful Historical Center hosts the McCracken Research recitation of stories handed down through the ages are Library. This library and archives specialize in Buffalo among the audio experiences awaiting visitors to the Bill’s Wild West, Western art and artists, Plains Indian Plains Indian Museum. The use of audio-visual history and culture, firearms history and technology, exhibits in combination with one of the nation’s largest the natural history of the Greater Yellowstone region, collections of Native American art and artifacts has the history of Yellowstone Park, Western folk music, created what Crow elder and historian Joe Medicine and Cody area history. Crow called a “living, breathing place.” In addition to the 26th annual Plains Indian Few Americans haven’t heard of Custer’s Last Museum Powwow held at the museum on June 16 and Stand, now known as the Battle of the Little Bighorn. 17, 2007, one other special exhibition is in place this Many Americans, though, don’t realize that the epic year:“John Bunker Sands: Seeking the Sublime,”a show confrontation is also known as the Battle of Greasy of the photography of environmentalist and philan- Grass and as Custer’s Battle. The Whitney Gallery of thropist John Bunker Sands.“Seeking the Sublime”will Western Art, reflecting those differing titles and per- run through July 27,2007.And,as always,there are spe- spectives, now houses a small exhibit titled “The Battle cial programs daily throughout the summer. of Many Names: June 25-26, 1876.” This collection, Visitors may purchase reproductions of fine though, steers clear of judging which interpretation of Western art, jewelry, and Native American art at the Custer’s demise is correct.Instead it seeks to “introduce Historical Center’s museum store, Museum Selections. ways in which it was seen and preserved for remem- A youngster ‘cowboys up’ in the BBHC. The Mustang Grill and Pony Express-O offer meals and brance” by displaying depictions through the eyes of and W.H.D. Koerner. The H. Peter and Jeannette beverages for visitors seeking sustenance or just a various artists. Kriendler Gallery of Contemporary Western Art dis- moment and place to relax in. Admission is good for The gallery also offers visions of the American West plays a stunning collection of modern art, including two consecutive days and includes entry to all five through the eyes of its master painters and sculptors. works by Harry Jackson and James Bama. museums. For more information call 307.587.4771 or Landscapes by Albert Bierstadt and Rounding out the Buffalo Bill Historical Center’s visit www.bbhc.org. share space with paintings of the classic West by perspective, the Cody Firearms Museum reveals Frederic Remington, Charles M. Russell, N.C. Wyeth, insights into the impact of the firearm on history. The —Buffalo Bill Historical Center

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www.focusproductions. com 2007 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 51 WEST YELLOWSTONE 59758 By Mike Calabrese Montana

Montana’s mighty Madison River has its humble beginnings in Yellowstone National Park, a few casts away from West itself. All right. You’ve been on the road for days, pets and Montana),is the perfect place to begin preparing for the kids (maybe even spouses) clamoring for your attention, traveler’s journey into the park. Bookstores stocking an The Painted Buffalo Roam succor,food,whatever.The thought ofYellowstone’s splen- amazing array of regional history, angling, and photog- dor,its magnificence,its vastness,its potential for nature’s raphy tomes provide a sanctuary to relax in before or less domestic sonic attributes (trees soughing in the after a park foray. Gift shops, microbreweries, delis, breeze, birds voicing their approval, perhaps even the pizzerias, bike and outdoor gear rental outlets, angling growl of some ursine creature) has nurtured your other- shops, clothing enterprises, restaurants, sandwich wise threatened sanity. But are you really ready to hit the counters, bars, grocery stores, all of them in West are park cold turkey? Without, say,a brief respite? In a setting prepared to help the weary—and at times stymied— where you can check off that list of necessities before hit- traveler make the best of a visit to one of the most cele- ting one of the park’s camp- brated and impressive pieces of grounds or pitching a tent in the West Yellowstone’s broad geography in the world. backcountry, or simply piloting Here’s a short list of what West your crew around Yellowstone’s streets, its passel of Yellowstone’s amiable folks can Visitors to West Yellowstone should watch out countless wonders? steer the visitor to: cycling, fishing, for buffalo in town this summer. They’re big— Face it, you might just need to restaurants, diverse hiking, hot springs, horseback rid- almost life-size—and they’re painted. catch your breath—maybe even ing, rafting, kayaking, tours, movies, The Painted Buffalo Roam art exhibit includes that sanity—before handing over shops, and tree-hemmed food, rest, even medical assistance. 26 hand-painted buffalo, 25 of which were created entrance fees to a ranger at the lodging could be the start And, of course, churches—for those by individual artists from the Rocky Mountain park’s gate.If you’re anywhere near whose souls have been tried in the West, and one painted by all 25 participating artists West Yellowstone, Montana, keep of one great venture into best and worst of times,spent all too in a special ceremony in town on June 1.Artists the faith. If you’re not in the vicini- often in motor vehicles jammed with were selected in a juried process based on their ty, head there now! Yellowstone park itself. kin and camp kitchen. visual concepts of three themes: Yellowstone, The town rests comfortably at West itself butts right up against Historic West Yellowstone, and Native Americans. 6,666 feet, its air clean and refreshing—and welcoming. a park that is home to 300 miles of roads, six types of These buffalo all began as a single 10-inch wax West Yellowstone’s broad streets, its passel of restaurants, ungulates, grizzly and black bears, 10,000 thermal fea- model crafted by Joe Halko and based on a photo of a diverse shops, and tree-hemmed lodging could be the tures, roughly 200 geysers and 41 waterfalls, and at bison cow near Madision Junction in Yellowstone start of one great venture into Yellowstone park itself. 2,221,766 acres, enough land to apply for United Nations Park. Halko then expanded the wax to an eight-foot- Oh,yeah,and because it’s summer,the snow has been membership. So when West opens its doors for summer long model using layers of Styrofoam, which was packed away until late next fall. travelers, businesses had better be ready. And they are, shipped back to Buffalo,Minnesota,and transformed The town teems with folks and activity in the sum- with products and services at peak quality. into a mold employed to create 27 buffalo cows. mer, but then again, it is 2007, not 1907, when the town’s Visitors,too,had better be ready.Blazing hot days and The exhibit unveils June 2 on the lawn of the West few visitors arrived mostly by rail on the Oregon Short brisk, cool nights endured in cars, tents, or on the trails, Yellowstone Historic Museum, after which each Line. Travelers to West Yellowstone then had almost no demand a certain amount of preparedness from painted buffalo will go to an individual sponsor’s means or opportunity to take advantage of a final supply Yellowstone’s visitors. Weather extremes move in and out location,each shown on the Buffalo Roam Trail Map. stop before heading off into nature’s majesty. Today the of the Yellowstone area like goldfish darting around in an Each spring for the next three years the buffalo town’s 900 or so residents gear up annually for summer aquarium. The nights can carry both the haunting howl- art will “roam,”the creations to be exhibited at dif- visitors readying themselves for park travels and moun- ing of wolves and coyotes (yep, even in town) and the ferent sponsors’ locations. At the end of the three- tain country outings. daunting chill of quick temperature drops. year showing,the painted buffalo will be sold to the West,as it’s called by locals (locals include folks from First-time visitors to either West or the park might highest bidders. For more information contact Jan Stoddard at 406/646-9310.

as far away as Jackson Hole, Wyoming, and Bozeman, also consider one last stop before leaving town. The Imax Photos: Wade (winter bison) McKoy (fishing); Jerry Johnson (Diane Hausman painted buffalo); Bob Woodall —Buffalo Roam / Wade McKoy 52 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2007 Theater and the adjacent Yellowstone Grizzly and Wolf Center may seem either redundant or out of place, so close to the world’s epicenter of both wildlife and end- lessly compelling scenery. Why would anyone want to view movies capturing the vast, almost vertiginous Yellowstone in Winter park landscape or view wolves and grizzlies from with- in 15-20 feet, when the park itself rubs right up against the town? Mainly because countless visitors see only a fraction of what the park has to offer. Others hit these centers to get a sense of what to look for before heading off into Yellowstone’s empire. Finally,West’s event calendar is loaded with gather- ings that beckon devotees from a mind-boggling array of interests. Here, check this out: in June, watch for the “The Painted Buffalo Roam,” Train Day, the Janet Clarkson Memorial Triathlon, and the opening of fish- ing on the park’s inimitable Firehole River. July, of course, starts with the usual bang on the 4th, while August plays host to the 36th Annual Yellowstone Rod Run, the 2nd Annual Smoking Waters Rendezvous, and When winter comes to Yellowstone, it transforms the also extensive groomed trail systems in the forest the Yellowstone Historic Center Ball. September and park into a wonderland. Sparkling frost clings to the service lands surrounding Yellowstone. Snowmobile October round out the social calendar with the 52nd trees. Blue-green ice forms up the sides of waterfalls enthusiasts of all abilities will find plenty of riding Annual Knothead Jamboree and the 10th Annual Fall and geyser-fed waterways remain open, providing a possibilities from which to choose. Cycle Tour. winter refuge to hundreds of waterfowl, including The splendor of Yellowstone in winter may also Now if all of this seems like more than a body could the rare trumpeter swan. Bald eagles are seen be enjoyed in the comfort of an enclosed snow- handle,there’s always time for just laying over in West perched in snags along the river banks and otters coach. Guided tours leave West Yellowstone and and walking around the friendly little town itself, grab- play in the snow. Larger wildlife is also about in Mammoth daily, enabling visitors of all ages to sit bing some grub, a drink, or a souvenir, or just basking abundance during the winter months, and visitors back, relax, and take in all the incredible winter in a mountain-country community smack dab in the often find themselves sharing the road with bison scenery. Special tours are also available for skiers middle of nature’s playground. and elk. interested in gliding through geyser basins or For more information, visit West’s chamber site at Transportation is limited to over-snow vehicles exploring the backcountry.Ski rentals are available www.westyellowstonechamber.com. Or call the cham- and restricted to the groomed roadways. in all the gateway communities. ber at 406-646-7701. Snowmobiles allow visitors to enjoy this winter play- Winter in Yellowstone is a unique experience, ground at their own pace. Complete tour packages, and not to be missed. Whether you choose to enjoy Mike Calabrese,a 34-year resident of Jackson Hole, tour guides, and daily rentals are available through- it by snowmobile,snowcoach,or on skis,be sure to supports his fly-fishing addiction as a professional out the region, including West Yellowstone, come back to visit this incredible area when it is clad musician, editor, and writer. He is the owner of Noteworthy, the region’s premiere music-booking Mammoth, Cody, Jackson, and the Togwotee Pass in a deep layer of snow. It’s an experience you’ll agency (www.noteworthymusicagency.com ). area.In addition to the groomed park trails,there are never forget. — Bob Woodall

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1-800-548-95511-800-548-9551 - One -Call One Does Call ItDoes All It All Jeff Henry photos Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center by Mike Calabrese Nothing can prepare visitors to West Yellowstone’s Center,also host to a first-class educational exhibit cen- Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center (GWDC) for the ter and theater,is the last stop for some of nature’s most startling, up-close experience of viewing these epic, recognizable and yet most threatened creatures. It almost mythic, animals. The haunting, intelligent eyes should be a first-stop for visitors to the park. of the gray wolves and the regal pelage and majesty of All of the center’s grizzlies were otherwise doomed, the grizzlies is simply breathtaking, even in this care- thanks in no small part to their unfortunate adjust- fully controlled and maintained habitat. A visit to the ment to, or run-ins with, humans. Foolish interactions, center can be every bit as moving and educational as a like feeding them or the misguided killing of predatory journey through the park itself,especially for folks who sows by ranchers,put these bears on a path toward cer- never venture away from cars or campgrounds. tain destruction. The phrase “a fed bear is a dead bear” The not-for-profit Grizzly and Wolf Discovery is not empty rhetoric. vey the deft quickness of an 800-pound grizzly. The center’s stunning exhibit, “Bears: Imagination The center’s Gallatin Wolf pack—Lakuna, Hayden, and Reality,”compellingly draws visitors into the world Naya,Granite,Aztec,and Alyeska—roam in their own of bears, both “real and imaginary.”The 25 taxidermic habitat, separate from that of the grizzlies, but are just specimens highlight the richly diverse coloration of as easily and productively viewed from the viewing grizzlies and the awe-inspiring girth of the polar bear. deck. Kids, as well as adults, seem mesmerized by the Even accomplished outdoorsmen will find the exhibit wolves, and because passes to the center are good for area’s interactive stations intriguing and challenging. two consecutive days, visitors often return, as if to con- Watching these bruins (the playful Sam tips the firm the reality and proximity of these mysterious scales at 1,000 pounds) tussle with each other or rum- ancestors to today’s canines. mage for food hidden throughout the habitat by both The GWDC is AZAA (American Zoo and Aquarium the center’s staff and visiting kids, reveals behavior Association) certified, a much prized and hard-earned that, frankly, few people ever witness. Seeing Illie actu- endorsement.A visit to the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery ally snatch a live rainbow from the habitat’s stocked Center will easily win over the hearts and minds of vis- pond beats looking at even the most famous and wide- itors of any age. spread photos of Kodiaks swatting at salmon. For more information, call the GWDC at 800-257- Impressive as those images are, they simply can’t con- 2570 or go online its site: www.grizzlydiscoveryctr.org. Yellowstone IMAX Theatre by Nancy Kessler The IMAX film Yellowstone takes visitors on a steaming fumaroles, and tranquil twilight moments. breathtaking journey through the park’s wonders. The The beauty of IMAX is in the brilliance and clarity theater’s 60’ by 80’ screen and 12,000 watts of digital of the picture,shot on film 10 times the size of a 35mm surround sound sends viewers over the edge—literal- camera and three times larger than standard 70mm ly—of the Lower Falls of the Grand Canyon of the movie film. The sound is equally spectacular, literally Yellowstone, thrills them through Snake River rapids surrounding the audience with music and the calls of on a hand-crafted wood raft, and chills them with a the natural world. chase through camp by a marauding grizzly bear. But Yellowstone is more than just a stunning visual From its opening frames of a majestic sunrise over and aural display. The 42-minute film educates and Dunraven Pass to incredible close-ups of gushing gey- entertains, and differs from nature or travelogue sers,Yellowstone drops viewers into the middle of the big movies by focusing on both the human and geologic picture, immersing the audience in bubbling mud pots, history of the park. This movie provides an excellent orientation to and overview of what could be seen in the park. ® Experience IMAX , the largest No matter what time of year the movie is seen, motion picture system in the world. viewers can experience the spectacular changing of the seasons as plumes of steam rise from snow-covered thermal features, while baby mammals frolic in fields of spring green, or when bull elk unleash their unique whistling “bugle”during the fall rut. Three other IMAX movies, Bears, Wolves,and Everything Else Grand Canyon, are also on this summer’s schedule. is JJustust a Movie. Equally informative are re-enactments of human activ- Call for Shows and Showtimes ities in the area, including scenes of the region’s first known residents, the Tukudika tribe. www.yellowstoneimax.com The Yellowstone IMAX Theater is located next to 406-646-4100 the park’s entrance at West Yellowstone, Montana.Visit Open Year Round ■ 101 S. Canyon ■ West Yellowstone, MT 59758 ■ 888-854-5862 toll free the theater online at www.yellowstoneimax.com or call Next to the West Entrance of Yellowstone National Park 888-854-5862.

54 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2007 PINEDALE 82941 Wyoming

By Joy Ufford Trekkers into Wyoming’s stunning Wind River Mountain range often gear up in nearby Pinedale. The sign welcoming travelers into Pinedale says it best—“All the civilization you need.” Pinedale, set in the heart of the Green River Valley, is still a small town at heart, despite the area’s billing as the latest and hottest “patch” for natural-gas explo- ration.And it’s clear, even from WYO 26, that the near- by Wind River Mountains and the Green River—its lakes, historical sites, and hordes of wildlife—are still unspoiled, and that leaving the highway behind would make for an unexpectedly memorable experience. What you need is to get out there into that mar- velous landscape—and it’s not that hard to do.You can create your own adventure or find seclusion, whether you prefer to drive, bike, hike, float, ride, or climb. It really is simple to get away from it all. The first item to get checked off the list is “When to visit?”Part ofthat is determined by your personal schedule, but knowing a bit more about the area’s Families seeking a fresh view of the West can find it atop a horse, led by experienced wranglers. events and activities might make it easier for you to get that coveted week or two off for a getaway. Back roads and trails hold the keys Then comes the hard part: “What to do?” The mountain men, fur trappers, and pioneers who came to adventure around Pinedale: ride, through this country in the last 100, 150, even 175 hike, bike, climb, fly-fish, float, years, found plenty of compelling reasons to return to the Green River Valley.Today’s visitors will discover the camp, explore, or just relax ! same kind of allure here. The annual Green River Rendezvous, with its But if it’s music you crave, catch the Pinedale Blues unique parade, mountain-man traders’ row, and Festival, Aug. 18-19. Rodeos are scheduled during the renowned pageant of grizzled characters, is certainly Green River Rendezvous and Big Piney’s Chuck Wagon one of the area’s most popular events. This year’s gath- Days (over July Fourth) as well as during the Sublette ering takes place July 12-15. County Fair, which celebrates the county’s agricultural If playing in and around mountainside lakes gets nature, July 28-Aug. 5. your adrenaline going, there’s the Father’s Day Looking for something a little more solitary? Fishing Derby on Fremont Lake, also where the Headwaters for the Green River,which still flow past old Pinedale Boat Club holds its annual sailing regatta homesteaders’ cabins and classy guest ranches, begin and other water events. near the iconic Square Top Mountain and Green River Pinedale is pronghorn country at its best. Photos: Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center (wolves); Fred Pflughoft (hikers, horsemen); Bob Woodall (antelope) Discovery Center (wolves); Fred Pflughoft (hikers, horsemen); Bob Woodall Photos: Grizzly and Wolf

www.focusproductions. com 2007 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 55 Lakes.Trails,some fairly rough and some worn smooth If in all this outdoors-oriented vacation you need with use,lead hikers,riders,anglers,and mountain bik- that little slice of civilization, there’s the town of ers up into wildflower-filled gullies and through stun- Pinedale itself. Traditional cowboy shops, outdoor-gear ning landscapes. outlets, hardware and auto-supply stores, two weekly Numerous lakes dot the region, and a traveler newspapers, arts and cultural events, excellent dining would be hard pressed to recall their names without the and western shopping,even a new movie theater,all are aid of a map. Lakes large and small, high up and still available to the Pinedale visitor. higher up, are nestled throughout the Winds and near- Whether you need new cowboy boots or the latest by , where fishing for Mackinaw, rain- in fishing gear, you’ll find it in this little Western town bow, cutthroat and golden trout is its own reward. with a big heart. Whether you go solo or hire a guide, fishing can be a People here are proud of their uniqueness and indi- one-stop vacation choice around Pinedale. The same vidualism. But the Green River Valley is a community goes for floating, kayaking, boating—even water-ski- in the old-fashioned sense of the word. And there are ing on Boulder Lake for the brave. bonds linking those community members to each The Winds are so spectacular as a backdrop, they other and to the land. almost defy breaking past them and into their heart! It won’t take you long in Pindale to discover the But the rock climbing (especially in Cirque of the basis for those bonds within yourself. Towers), backcountry pack trips and horseback rides, Joy Ufford, who lives in Bondurant, works part- flat to frightening mountain biking,and wildlife watch- time at the Sublette Examiner in Pinedale and on a cat- ing (more animals than people in this territory!) are tle ranch in Bondurant. world-renowned. If you get a yearning for the old ways and old days, hiking into the Bridger Wilderness can give you that— The Winds typify Wyoming’s diverse landscape. more than 428,000 acres of wild land where you’ll never ums and get a lesson as only they can teach it.The Green hear a chain saw or meet a four-wheeler. If you require a River Valley Museum in Big Piney is open June 15-Oct. little less reality but still seek experiences of the early 15,noon to 4 p.m.,Tuesday through Saturday.Admission days, there are quick and enjoyable alternatives. fees? Make a donation. The Museum of the Mountain Visit the area’s two wonderful local-history muse- Man in Pinedale operates daily, 9 a.m.-5 p.m., from May 1-Sept. 30. Adults $5, kids $3. You’ll come away with a new appreciation for the mountain men, miners, pio- neers, and ranchers who struggled to find a way to sur- The LODGE vive in this paradisiacal valley. AT PINEDALE Final item on the checklist: Where will you stay? Well,you have the choices to make it as fancy or as • Indoor Pool & Jacuzzi • Free Continental Breakfast down-to-earth as you desire, from camping rough • Free High-Speed Internet beside a mountain stream to cozying up at bed-and- • Refrigerator and microwave in every room breakfasts. Watching wildlife wander through cabin • Located minutes from White Pine Ski Area sites or savoring luxuriously rustic stays at working guest ranches can also be arranged. Just note that 307-367-8800 Locally Owned & Managed campgrounds, RV parks, and motels fill quickly in West Hwy 191 in Pinedale • 1054 W. Pine St. Sublette County’s glorious summers, so plan ahead by Pinedale, WY 82941 making reservations before you arrive. Reservations 1-866-995-6343 Anglers can wade-fish the upper Green River.

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56 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2007 Meet me on the Green Museum of the Mountain Man 71th Annual by Mike Calabrese GREEN RIVER Only the term dezvous sometimes RENDEZVOUS PAGEANT “mountain man” lasted for months, can match that of time enough to get Sunday, July 15, “cowboy” for the supplies, renew 1pm at wealth of color and friendships, swap Pinedale lore associated stories, trade, tipple, Rodeo with the “winning and, yes, debauch. Of of the West.” the 16 rendezvous Grounds Cowboys,of course, held during the $5 Admission roamed pretty height of the Rocky much everywhere Mountain fur trade, west of the six were located in Mississippi and the Green River

have outlived even Valley. Photo Jeannette Boner, Pinedale Roundup their almost mythi- Exhibits at the cal epoch of the late museum provide a 1800s. But moun- Modern-day mountain men gather to celebrate and pre- good starting point tain men, who serve the lore and life of their historical counterparts. for visitors heading made do with less (after all, cowboys always had their to the 71th Annual Green River Rendezvous, a re-cre- horses and cattle), pretty much went the way of the ation of those original mountain man gatherings. This Parade: beaver hat by the late 1850s. year’s rendezvous is replete with activities for the Saturday, July 14, 11am For every Bat Masterson, Bill Hickock, and Wyatt entire family and runs July 12-15. The Rendezvous Downtown Pinedale Earp, there’s an equally notable mountain man. John C. Pageant, where over 200 members of the community Lion’s Club Lunch: Fremont and William Sublette have a couple of perform in original costumes, is set for Sunday,July 15 Sunday, July 15, 11:30 Wyoming counties and mountain peaks named after at 1 p.m. at the Pinedale Rodeo Grounds. For more www.meetmeonthegreen.com them. Jedediah Smith and Kit Carson have certainly information visit the Green River Rendezvous Pageant Call (307)367-2242 for information garnered enough press to earn their places in popular Association’s website at meetmeonthegreen.com or Western culture. And mountain man Jim Bridger is so call 307-367-2242. revered around here that visitors to Wyoming will find The museum captures the ways and lore of these no fewer than 21 places honoring him. Fitting, then, hearty individuals. Clothing, artifacts, mounted ani- Enjoy the Wind River Range that a .40 caliber half-stock rifle of his should end up in mals, even a tipi help bring the days of the mountain at White Pine the region’s most famous collection of mountain man man alive. The museum also colorfully showcases history and memorabilia—Pinedale, Wyoming’s western wildlife, Indians, fur trapping, wagon trains, Museum of the Mountain Man. mountain men, and even bison in its spacious 15,000- Even more fitting, the museum is situated on a hill square-foot facility.Bridger’s rifle,given to him in 1853, not far from the site of the original Green River was at one time part of the Buffalo Bill collection. Luxury Log Cabins Rendezvous, which began in 1833 in the “Valley of the Fortunately, it has found a permanent home in this Horseback Riding Green.” Over 3,000 Indians, hundreds of mountain rewarding and informative setting. Mountain Biking men, fur trappers, and missionaries gathered there to The Museum of the Mountain Man is open daily Hiking and Fishing barter and trade their goods. The cry “Meet me on the from 9 a.m. until 5 p.m., through September 30. Hiking and Fishing Green!” was a reminder and a reassurance to trappers, Admission fees are $5 for adults, $4 for seniors, and $3 Lunch and Dinner who spent long and isolated winters gathering beaver for kids 6-12 years old. For more information call toll pelts, and to traders who traveled countless miles on free 1-877-686-6266 or go online at museumofthe- hazardous, often life-threatening trails. These ren- mountainman.com.

Photos: Fred Pflughoft (hike, fish); Bob Woodall (mountain men) Photos: Fred Pflughoft (hike, fish); Bob Woodall Open Daily 10 miles north of Pinedale, WY on Freemont Lake Rd. 307-367-6606 www.whitepineski.com

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Operating under permit by the Bridger-Teton National Forest

www.focusproductions. com 2007 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 57 DUBOIS 82513 Wyoming Dubois gained a lot of its character from those early day lumbermen, along by Suzan Moulton with ranchers, outlaws, and The ‘glory road’through Wyoming,of course,leads right into Teton and Yellowstone National parks. But Native Americans. along that road rests a jewel of a little town. Plunked down amidst some of the country’s most beautiful The Dubois region lays claim to some of the state’s most celebrated and accessible backcountry. landscape is Dubois,Wyoming. a visit even by non-anglers. The Twin Pines. This abode recalls the early 1930s era An hour or so away from Jackson,Dubois boasts an Looking to kick back with a good read? Julie and and the style and feel of those classic Yellowstone exterior that’s rough, ready, and brimming with its own her staff at Two Ocean Books are like knowledgeable National Park accommodations.The two pines, planted kind of Western. Each plank of its rustic board side- wine stewards.If you need help in finding the best book by the orignal owners, unfortunely did not survive last walk,for example,is branded with names of locals,area in your area of interest, or suggestions for good vaca- winter's storm, and were removed. The hospitality is is ranches,and fond visitors.And the fancy log work grac- tion fare, they await, a complete book menu at hand. as warm and friendly as ever. ing some of the town’s buildings harkens back to the Western writers have truly come of age, and Two Ocean It’s no surprise that another Dubois standout, The area’s celebrated tie-hack era. Books has kept pace with the new and old West’s finest Branding Iron Motel, boasts cabins fashioned of A tie-hack was a logger who felled trees and hacked authors. Swedish-coped logs dating from the early 1940s. or shaped them into railroad cross ties. At one time But coming to Dubois for just the shops is like end- Somehow,overnighting in classic log structures just logging was the main industry of the Dubois area, and ing your dinner after the appetizer,no matter how tasty. feels right, out here in the West. the town gained a lot of its character from those early The real meal awaits in the fabulous surroundings: the But if you’re only passing through,Taylor Exxon and day lumbermen, along with ranchers, outlaws, and colorful Badlands and the vast Shoshone National market will have you and your vehicle fueled up and Native Americans. Forest, both filled with wildlife, clean air, fishing, and ready to go in no time.Chances are, though, you’ll make Dubois shops vary, from long-established compa- eye-popping scenery—and the elbow room to enjoy it it a point to find your way back to Dubois country on nies to the brand new, and let visitors know they’re in all in. Everything but the crowds! your return trip.And you’ll thank your lucky stars, too. big country.Wind River Gear,in its recently refurbished The menu for the town’s lodging is also diverse. But Western gems like Dubois shouldn’t be passed up. log building, offers equipment for any outdoor adven- it may be a hard choice! One Dubois motel owner com- Suzan Moulton, a Wyoming native for 35 of her 50- ture. And that rainbow in the sky (the piscine perched mented that in the late afternoon, he watches the cars something years, lives in Dubois with her third-gener- on the pole outside) signals your arrival at Whiskey drive slowly up and down the main street—perhaps ation Wyoming husband. She is the Executive Director Mountain Tackle. Both shops can outfit the visitor for captivated by the town—and checking out the motels. of the National Bighorn Sheep Center. any of the region’s recreational activities, including just Heavy with charm and light in price, the local motels the right angle on fishing hot spots and the suitable will persuade you to stay a while. The historic Twin equipment to employ in the area’s crystal clear streams Pines Motel and the Branding Iron Motel, for example, Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center and lakes. Native cutthroat, browns, rainbows, and both offer respite and comfort to the weary traveler. Few mammals can brookies populate the local fisheries, themselves worth The rich beauty of handcrafted log is captured in match the Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep for sure-foot- edness. Powerful and nim- Stop in for all your ble, even at 250 to 300 Paddle Sports fishing, camping & pounds, they tread crags Fly Fishing and rocky trails like no other hunting supplies. creatures on earth. That Hiking•Books beauty has been captured Whiskey Mtn. graphically and elegantly in Dubois, Wyoming’s Maps•Topos Tackle & Sports National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center. Stunning, full-size bighorns set among their 19 N. 1st Street 307.455.3468 1428 Warm Springs Drive natural flora and geology lend to this center a Downtown Dubois breathtaking realism. Photos and hands-on [email protected] 307-455-2587 exhibits draw visitors into the majestic range and [email protected] habits of these magnificent animals. Dubois hosts this interpretive center for good Twin Pines Lodge & Cabins reason: nearby is home to the Your Home Away from Home, Pizza & Subs largest wintering herd of Rocky Mountain Bighorn In Yellowstone Country Sheep in North America. During winter, the center offers fully guided tours there. Grab ‘n Dash The center, located right on the main street of Dubois (which just happens to be Wyoming Highway 287/26), is open daily from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. Admission fees are $2.50 for adults, 75 cents for children, and $6 for families. For more information, call toll free 1-888-209- 307-455-2600 • Toll Free Reservations: 1-800-550-6332 2795 or go on-line at www.bighorn.org, or e-mail 218 W. Ramshorn St • [email protected] TAYLOR CREEKK EXXON www.twinpineslodge.com West End of Dubois - 1 block from Super 8 • 307-455-3320 the center at [email protected].—Mike Calabrese

58 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2007 TETON VALLEYIdaho 83455 by Mike Calabrese Teton Valley,Idaho,“the quiet side of the Tetons,”has Victor lights up Independence Day with become a destination hotspot all its own.It’s no wonder, a parade and fireworks. either.The beautiful basin just over the hill from Jackson Travelers seeking a bird’s-eye view Hole is replete with recreational, cultural, and resort of Teton Valley can drive just north of opportunities. Driggs and stop at Teton Aviation. The valley’s charming towns of Victor, Driggs, and Scenic glider flights start with a tow Tetonia, Idaho, lie just to the west of 8,429-foot Teton into the big cobalt-blue sky and, Pass. Now, it’s true: one of the only depending on the day’s traffic lights in the entire valley is The 4th of July cele- thermal activity, begin right there in the middle of Victor. soaring above either But a stoplight couldn’t be more help- bration welcomes Darby or Teton canyons. fully placed. Just beyond it, the Powered aircraft also charming Victor Emporium serves summer visitors in make for an incredible up arguably the best malteds and grand style with the way to view the panora- milkshakes in the Greater ma of the Tetons and its Ye l l owston e E cosyste m . T he annual Hot Air surroundings. Emporium also happens to house Amateur pilots and fishing gear (and fishing updates Balloon Festival. crew should check out the from folks who know) and just about Warbirds Museum at the anything else foks in Victor need. The Emporium’s Driggs Regional Airport, displaying six warm counter staff have helped make it a centerpiece in fully operational vintage aircraft. the valley, much like old town post offices used to be. Obviously, “quiet” in Teton Valley Local anglers wouldn’t think of heading off to the South has taken on a new meaning, and lucky Fork,the Teton,or other nearby fisheries without check- travelers are taking advantage of it. ing in at the Emporium.And hungry visitors should do the same. • Merrell • Smith • Carhartt • Dansko • Temple Fork Fly Rods • After taking the edge off their appetite, travelers Cloudveil heading on to Driggs sometimes nearly run off the road when the Tetons loom into view on the right (the east Home of

side of the valley). Just about the time drivers regain Nalgene

their composure, another certifiable landmark pops up, •

THE World Famous • The Spud Drive-in Theatre.This place is almost a nation- al treasure. Folks looking for a little romance, or families Huckleberry Milkshake WoolSmart yearning for a movie and an evening under a billion stars,shouldn’t pass up the Spud.A Spud “Gladysburger,” Sportif a stunning sunset, and a movie add up to a perfect sum- • mer evening under the Tetons.This year, on Aug.3-4, the  Where the locals shop

Spud hosts its “Spudfest Take II,”a festival highlighting • Rapala live music and screenings of independent shorts, fea- for flies and Maui Jim tures, documentaries, and animations. • The Teton Range on the east and the Big Hole fishing gear. Mountains on the valley’s west side (home to some of the region’s best single-track mountain biking) just beg  for exploring. The wilderness below the Tetons, the SUNGLASSES • HATS •

Jedediah Smith area, is only minutes from Driggs and is SHOES • GIFTS • T-SHIRTS Nalgene popular with hikers of all ages. Adventurous trekkers ESPRESSO • JEWELRY employ these trails near Targhee to access and cross

over into Grand Teton National Park. Native Eyewear

Anglers, by the way,can wet a fly on the valley’s Blue • • Ribbon water—the Teton River—and cowboys and Action Optics cowgirls can ride to their hearts’ content in Teton Valley. And the local chamber of commerce has also made sure that its calendar is packed with fun right in the Rapala 208-787-2221 • towns themselves. The Teton Valley’s Summer Festival, Located in downtown Victor, ID running from June 30 through July 7, brims with activi- ties. The 4th of July celebration, for instance, welcomes ~ Just 30 minutes from downtown Jackson Hole ~ Sportif

summer visitors in grand style: Tetonia hosts a rodeo, • Photos: Bob Woodall \ Triangle C Ranch (horseman); Wade McKoy (T-Rex) C Ranch (horseman); Wade \ Triangle Photos: Bob Woodall Driggs launches its annual Hot Air Balloon Festival, and • Temple Fork Fly Rods • Smart Wool • Smith • Rapala • Sportif www.focusproductions. com 2007 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 59 & accessories. Friendly & knowledgeable staff. 2-hour film & digital pro- cessing. 60 So. Cache, across from Eddie Bauer. 307-733-3831 pg 10 & 63 FOCUS PRODUCTIONS, INC. Publishers of Mountain Country, Jackson Hole Skier & JH Dining Guide. Commercial & editorial photography & stock photo library. 307-733-6995 www.focusproductions.com WILD BY NATURE GALLERY features the wildlife & landscape photog- Business, Service & raphy of Henry H. Holdsworth. Behind the Wort Hotel, 95 West Deloney wildbynaturegallery.com 307-733-8877 pg 20 CLIMBING Activities Directory JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING ACCOMMODATIONS, CAMPING & SPAS ART, JEWELRY & MUSIC CLIMBING WALL Located in Teton Village at the base of the moun- tain, practice your climbing skills on our specially designed DUBOIS, WYOMING JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING Mountain Dew ® Climbing Wall. 397-739-2654 pg 45 TRIANGLE C RANCH 3-6 day traditional summer dude ranch vacations DANSHELLEY JEWELERS Christopher Corbett Opals & Diamonds CLIMB WITH THE EXUM GUIDES Daily climbing instruction - with programs for the whole family.(800) 661-4928 or 307- 455-2225 featured exclusively. Jackson’s finest jewelry experience since 1976. Jenny Lake & Teton Village. Beginner to Advanced. Climb Grand TWIN PINES LODGE & CABINS Lodge & Cabins, A classic since This talented team specializes in originals, featuring elk ivory, Teton & other peaks. One-day climbs. Families & groups. 1934, modern with rustic ambiance, cable TV, VCR's, refrigerators, unique gems, wedding sets, Tetons & wildlife. Gaslight Alley. Just Reservations: 307 733-2297. pg 23 walking distance to restaurants, taverns & shopping, reasonable of the town square. 307-733-2259 pg 3 ENCLOSURE INDOOR CLIMBING CENTER Try indoor rock climbing rates, Continental breakfast, Downtown, 800-550-6332 pg 58 JC JEWELERS Jackson’s premier fine jewelry store. Specializing in cus- for excitement and challenge. Climbing for all levels and ages.Great JACKSON HOLE & TETON VILLAGE, tom design in precious metals and fine gems. Western designs include family fun at affordable rates. www.enclosureclimbing.com 670 elk ivory jewelry and charms. In the landmark log cabin at 132 N. Deer Lane, Jackson 307-734-9590 pg 23 WYOMING Cache. 307-733-5933 pg 7 PINEDALE, WYOMING HOSTEL X A friendly family lodge with rooms for 1-2 at $60 or 3-4 at NOTEWORTHY MUSIC AGENCY Provides entertainment for all $74, all have private baths & maid service. At the base of the Jackson types of occasions. Call Mike Calabrese, 307-733-5459 pg 42 SUBLETTE COUNTY Hiking & climbing in the Wind River & Wyoming Ranges.MountainManCountry.com pg 56 Hole Aerial Tram, in Teton Village, Wyoming. 307-733-3415 pg 47 SACRED GROUND NATIVE AMERICAN FINE ART SHOW Painting, SIGNAL MOUNTAIN LODGE Resort on Lake Jackson in Grand Teton jewelry, pottery, textile, sculpture, beadwork, baskets, by award FOOD–RESTAURANTS–DELI–GROCERIES National Park. Cabins, restaurants/lounge, boat rentals, scenic float winning Native Artists representing over 30 tribes. July 20–22, trips, guided fishing trips, gift shops, and campgrounds. Open May- Virginian Convention Center, Jackson, [email protected] LOUNGES & LIQUOR STORES Oct. www.signalmountainlodge.com (307) 543-2831 pg 33 307-690-7130 pg 43 SNOW KING RESORT Full service hotel & conference center with DUBOIS, WYOMING condominiums, restaurant, lounge, & spa facilities. Alpine slide, AUTO SERVICES TAYLOR CREEK EXXON C-Store & Pizza/Sub Deli. Fresh-made miniature golf, chairlift rides to the summit of Snow King Mountain. DUBOIS, WYOMING Subs & Pizzas. All your travel needs: groceries, fresh ground cof- 307-733-5200 pg 42 fee, fuel, propane, & auto supplies. Car Wash. West end of Dubois. TAYLOR CREEK EXXON C-Store & Pizza/Sub Deli. All your travel 307-455-3320. pg 58 TETON MOUNTAIN LODGE & SPA Luxury full-service resort hotel, at needs: groceries, fresh ground coffee, fuel, propane, & auto sup- Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Cascade Restaurant & fireside bar. Indoor/out- plies. Car Wash. West end of Dubois. 307-455-3320. pg 58 JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING door pool, hot tubs & 5 story Mountain Lodge Spa expansion, state of the art THE ATRIUM Full menu, from sandwiches & burgers to hand-cut steaks. treatment rooms, private balconies & natural local materials. Banquets & BABY-SITTING-CHILD CARE We feature organic local products. Local beers & full cocktail service catering available!Rooftop event space. 307-734-7111 pg 47 JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING available. Incredible daily breakfast buffet & full service espresso stand. TOGWOTEE MOUNTAIN LODGE Premiere snowmobiling resort in Summer patio dining. At Snow King Resort 307-733-5200 pg 42 BABY-SITTING BY THE TETONS 24-hr, on-call Baby-sitting, long & winter; your gateway to Teton and Yellowstone National Parks in BILLY’S GIANT HAMBURGERS The locals' first choice for a great short term, care provided at your location. Safety is our primary con- summer. Log Cabins, Lodge Rooms, Restaurant, Bar, Gas Station, half pound burger, hot dogs and sandwiches. In a lively diner cern. Special needs children welcome. Only licensed Baby-sitting Hot Tubs. 1-800-543-2847, [email protected]. pg 35 atmosphere. Daily from 11:30 thru dinner. Counter service & take- service in Jackson for 18 years. 307-733-0754/866-733-0754 pg 25 VIRGINIAN LODGE 170 rooms, jacuzzi suites, phones, restaurant, out. Next to the Cadillac Grille, on the Square. 307-733-3279 pg 64 saloon, liquor store, convention facilities, cable TV. Summer RV park. BICYCLE: RENTAL, SALES, & SERVICE CADILLAC GRILLE A locals' favorite for over 20 years. Choice steaks, 750 W Broadway. 307-733-2792 or 800-262-4999 pg 38 JACKSON & TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING game, fresh seafood & pasta. Innovative dishes prepared with care & VIRGINIAN RV PARK 105 large spaces, 64 pull-through spaces. 50 precision for the discerning palate. Lunch & dinner. Premium well amp electric, full sewer hook-up, cable TV, laundry, swimming pool, FAT TIRE TOURS Guided mountain-bike adventures on the Elk drinks. Bar menu. 2-for-1 happy hour 5-7daily. Opens daily at 11:30. On restaurant, saloon and liquor store. 307-733-7189 pg 38 Refuge, Snow King Mountain, and the Bridger-Teton Forest. Beginners the Jackson Town Square. 307-733-3279 pg 64 JACKSON HOLE RESORT LODGING Conveniently located next to thru experts. Great Fun. 40 S. Millward. 307-733-5335 pg 19 CASCADE GRILL HOUSE & SPIRITS Serving breakfast, lunch & the Teton Village Market, lodging & accommodation for all seasons. FITZGERALD’S BICYCLES WANTED! Visitors to Jackson Hole look- dinner. Featuring New Western Cuisine. Located slopeside in the Affordable condos to luxury vacation homes, for family getaways ing for bike rentals, repair, sales & local info. Must be willing to Teton Mountain Lodge at Teton Village. Aprés ski specials and cozy and reunions. 800-443-8613, 307-733-3990 PG 45 interact with friendly bike addicts. Appreciation for customer serv- fireside bar. Banquets & catering available. 307-732-6932 pg 47 PINEDALE, WYOMING ice a must! 307-734-6886 pg 19 43 NORTH Upscale Tavern at the Base of Snow King Mountain. THE LODGE AT PINEDALE Located in the center of Pinedale, 43 HOBACK SPORTS Jackson’s largest & complete bike shop. Staffed Open nightly with alfresco and rooftop dining. Live Music. Enjoy rooms, deluxe continental breakfast, indoor pool & jacuzzi, compli- by professionals who can rent, repair, fit & accessorize. Dealer for aged steaks, fresh seafood, and micro-brewed beer. 733-0043 pg 29 mentary high-speed internet, refrigerator & microwave in every Specialized, Trek, Haro and Santa Cruz. Bike tours daily. 520 West JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT Buffalo & Elk steaks, burgers, room. www.lodgeatpinedale.com. 866-995-6343 PG 56 Broadway. 307-733-5335 pg 19 jerky, salami & smoked roasts. Pick up your steak for the BBQ, gift SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE MountainManCountry.com pg 56 JACKSON HOLE SPORTS Bike Rentals for the entire family in the packs available, WE SHIP! A must stop when in Jackson, Free WHITE PINE SKI AREA & RESORT Sublette County's Largest Resort. Bridger Center, Teton Village. Free Teewinot lift access with full day Samples Located in Eagle Village @ SMITH’S Plaza, 5 min. south of Lodging, Fine Dining, Smoke Free Lounge, Catered Events, Retreats, rentals at Jackson Hole Sports. Gear, sportswear, shoes, accessories town 800-543-6328 / 733-4159. www.buybuffalomeat.com pg 41 Kidz Camp. www.whitepineski.com. 307-367-6606 pg 57 and more. 307-739-2687 pg 45 JACKSON HOLE DINING GUIDE This 96 page magazine is a compendi- WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA TETON VILLAGE SPORTS Bike sales, rentals, repairs & accessories in um of menus from the areas restaurants, with index of food types, along Teton Village. We also offer a large selection of apparel, shoes & with maps to restaurants. Pick up a copy at your lodge or view on line at DAYS INN 116 rooms downtown West Yellowstone, with pool & equipment for hiking, backpacking, disc golf, skiing & snowboard- www.focusproductions.com 100’ waterslide, only 3 blocks from Yellowstone National Park. 301 ing. 307-733-2181 pg 17 Madison Avenue, 1-800-548-9551 pg 53 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT A variety of restaurants offer BOATING–CANOEING–KAYAKING breakfast to burgers, sushi to Continental Elegance. At the top of the APPAREL Bridger Gondola, newly opened restaurants serve casual gourmet deli SCENIC & WHITEWATER RAFTING meal or contemporary cuisine with breathtaking Teton & valley views CODY, WYOMING JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING from the expansive decks. pg 45 SIERRA TRADING POST OUTLET STORE Cody’s best selection of A. J. DeROSA’S WOODEN BOAT RIVER TOURS Private Snake River THE LOUNGE AT SNOW KING RESORT A casual place to have a drink. A outdoor clothing and equipment. The North Face, Carhartt, Kelty, float trips. Brunch, hors’ doeurves or dinner at private camp. Lunch showcase of regional entertainment. Snow King Resort 307-733-5200 pg 42 Vasque, Marmot, Pearl Izumi, Lowe Alpine. Just south of the Buffalo on full day trips. Overnight in teepee. Groups up to 6. Traditional McDONALD’S OF JACKSON HOLE Where quality, service, cleanliness Bill Historical Center, 1402 8th Street, 307-578-5802 pg 51 hand-crafted McKenzie River Boats accommodate 3 adults or 2 & value are a tradition. Featuring McDonald's freshly prepared break- DUBOIS, WYOMING adults & 2 children. 307-732-BOAT pg 29 fast & regular menu favorites. Wi-Fi availability for your convenience. WIND RIVER GEAR Technical clothing, footware, rain gear, casual CHARLIE SANDS WILD WATER Whitewater trips in 8 & 14 man u- 5:30am-midnight daily. 1110 W. Broadway @ Hwy 22. pg 15 wear, trekking poles, tents, sleeping bags, camp gear, optics, books, paddle boats. Overnight dinner and morning breakfast combo trips. SIGNAL MOUNTAIN LODGE Resort on Lake Jackson in Grand Teton GPS, compasses, maps, even canine gear for your best friend. Scenic Float trips. Since 1964. 1-800-358-8184. www.sandswhitewa- NP- Restaurants/lounge, Open May-Oct. (307) 543-2831 pg 33 ....where outdoor adventures begin. pg 58 ter.com pg 25 TETON STEAKHOUSE Breakfast, lunch & dinner. Steaks, salad bar, JACKSON & TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING CLACKACRAFT DRIFT BOATS For 30 years ClackaCraft has been the chicken, seafood & more. Jackson’s local favorite! Corner of Pearl & leader in drift boat design. ClackaCraft is committed to conservation Cache across from Antler Inn. pg 38 JACKSON HOLE CLOTHIERS Exciting store with the best in con- through partnerships with Trout Unlimited and Jackson Hole One TETON VILLAGE Breakfast, lunch & dinner. 11 restaurants offer fare temporary Western apparel: men, women & children.Shirts by Fly Foundation among others. pg 33 Ryan Michael, Double D Ranchwear & Old Gringo Boots. Open to from breakfast to burgers, sushi to Continental Elegance. Teton 9pm, Jackson Town Square. 307-733-7211. pg 7 MAD RIVER BOAT TRIPS With 14 departures daily, Mad River has Village. 307-733-2292 pg 45 something for everyone. New equipment, trained guides & the most JACKSON HOLE SPORTS In the Bridger Center, Teton Village, is TOGWOTEE MOUNTAIN LODGE’S Grizzly Steakhouse serving B/L/D variety. Breakfast, lunch & dinner trips.The best name in whitewater ranging from wild game to seafood to box lunches. Come to the Red your one-stop shop for an active summer outing. Sportswear, shoes, & scenic trips! 1255 S Hwy 89, 307-733-6203/800-458-7238 pg 25 accessories & Resort wear for the entire family. Mountain bike Fox Saloon--pool, darts, spirits and lively locals! 1-800-543-2847 pg 35 rentals and lift tickets. 307-739-2687 pg 45 RENDEZVOUS RIVER SPORTS Jackson’s paddle sport headquarters. VIRGINIAN SALOON Restaurant, saloon, liquor store, convention facili- We have a full selection of top brand merchandise & offer guided ties, 750 W Broadway. 307-733-2792 or 800-262-4999. pg 38 MERRELL For 25 years Merrell® has been providing outdoor enthu- tours & lessons. 945 W. Broadway in the Sidewinders Building. 307- siasts with quality performance footwear for their active and after 733-2471 PG 27 WESTSIDE STORE & DELI Full service grocery, deli & meat dept. sport pursuits. Available at Hoback Sports, Jackson Bootlegger, and Custom sandwiches, fresh baked breads, ATM, gourmet cheese, thin Teton Village Sports. pg 5 SNAKE RIVER KAYAK & CANOE Whitewater rafting in the Snake crust pizza and specialty foods. On the Teton village road 5 miles River Canyon. Single-day & overnight backcountry sea kayaking trips before Teton Village @ the Aspens. 307-733-6202 pg 16 MILL VALLEY SHEEPSKIN & LEATHER CO. Over 200 World-Class in Yellowstone. Canoe & kayak instruction for all ages & abilities. shearling, leather & fur coat styles at our factory direct store in Full service paddle sports specialty shop.307-733-9999 pg 27 WESTSIDE WINE & SPIRITS Offering a wide selection of the finest wines, Jackson Hole. Get FREE catalog &shop on line at www.millval- liquors & beers from around the world. At The Aspens, Teton Village leyleather.com 172 Center St. Jackson. 307-739-1790 pg 4 CAMERAS, BINOCULARS & PHOTOGRAPHY Road. 307-733-5038 [email protected] pg 16 TETON VILLAGE SPORTS Jackson’s mountain recreation specialists JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING featuring a large selection of outdoor apparel, shoes & equipment PINEDALE, WYOMING for hiking,biking, fishing, backpacking, disc golf, skiing & snow- DD CAMERA CORRAL Jackson’s oldest full service camera store. WHITE PINE SKI AREA & RESORT Sublette County's Largest Resort. boarding. 307-733-2181 pg 17 Authorized dealer: Canon, Nikon, Lica, & Pentax. Binoculars, film, frames, Fine Dining, Smoke Free Lounge, Catered Events. 307-367-6606 pg 57

60 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2007 TETON VALLEY-VICTOR/DRIGGS, IDAHO WAGONS WEST COVERED WAGON TREKS Relive pioneer PINEDALE, WYOMING days on a 2, 4 or 6 day trek into the Mt. Leidy highlands. VICTOR EMPORIUM Ice cream & more. World Famous Huckleberry SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE MountainManCountry.com pg 56 [email protected] 307-886-5284, 800-447-4711 pg 39 Shakes. Something for every member of the family, even the dog! Downtown Victor. 208-787-2221 pg 59 WESTBANK ANGLERS Home to Jackson Hole’s most experienced & REAL ESTATE professional guided fly fishing services. Full & 1/2 day trips, beginner to WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA experts. Snake, Green, New Fork & South Fork Rivers & Yellowstone JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING TRAPPERS RESTAURANT Adjacent to the Days Inn, enjoy delicious National Park. 307-733-6483 or 800-922-3474 pg 33 SARAH KERR–SALES ASSOCIATE, ART HAZEN REAL ESTATE Get food in a family atmosphere. Known for our sour dough, take some YELLOWSTONE OUTFITTERS 2 & 4 hr & all day into Teton the right representation. Thorough market understanding, ski prop- home. Only 3 blocks from Yellowstone National Park. 301 Madison Wilderness, Yellowstone & Thorofare Rivers. 6-day 1st class horse- erties, ranches, homes, condos and vacant land. Call me today for Avenue, 1-800-548-9551 pg 53 pack trips, Orvis-endorsed outfitter. Box Creek base camp east of your market update. 307-690-8605 PG 20 GIFTS, ANTIQUES & RETAIL SPECIALTIES Moran Jct. @ 23590 Buffalo Valley Road. June, July, Aug & Sept. TETON VILLAGE REALTY Browse our listings or search for other Reservations needed, 307-543-2418, 800-447-4711 pg 39 real estate opportunities in the greater Jackson Hole area, visit our JACKSON & TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE Hiking, fishing, riding in the website at www.tetonvillagerealty.com. Teton Village Realty’s team TETON VILLAGE Gift shops, apparel, sports equipment, at Jackson Wind River & Wyoming Ranges.MountainManCountry.com pg 56 of effective real estate professionals can be reached any time 866- Hole Sports in the Bridger Center. 732-3618 pg 45 WHITE PINE SKI AREA & RESORT Mountain Biking, Horseback 732-1801. pg 2 JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT Buffalo & Elk steaks, burgers, Adventures, Kidz Camp. www.whitepineski.com. 307-367-6606 pg 57 TETON VILLAGE REALTY–JACK DELAY, ASSOCIATE BROKER “Your jerky, salami & smoked roasts. Pick up your steak for the BBQ. Gift TETON VALLEY-VICTOR/DRIGGS, IDAHO Ace in The Hole” Specializing in Buyer representation with 5 star serv- packs available, WE SHIP! SEE FOOD & RESTAURANTS pg 41 ice. Offices located in town of Jackson and Teton Village. 307-690- VICTOR EMPORIUM Where the locals shop for fishing advice & 8404, jack@tetonvillagerealty pg 2 & 46 JACKSON HOLE RESORT STORE The official logo store of the gear! Hats, gifts, T-shirts, ice cream, World Famous Huckleberry Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Your source for logo apparel & gifts Shakes, & more. Something for every member of the family, even WILDLIFE & PHOTO SAFARIS –TOURS on the east side of the Jackson Town Square. 307-734-6045 pg 45 the dog! Downtown Victor. 208-787-2221 pg 59 MUSEUMS, IMAX, & INTERPRETIVE CENTERS PINEDALE, WYOMING WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA THE BARN DOOR Unique furnishings, antiques, gifts & accessories ALL YELLOWSTONE SPORTS Backcountry rides in National forest CODY, WYOMING for the home. Don’t miss this special diamond in the rough. 31 South or Yellowstone National Park. Great family outing. We are a BUFFALO BILL HISTORICAL CENTER “One of the finest museums Sublette Av. 307-367-3667, barndoordesign.com pg 57 Yellowstone authorized park concession. 800-548-9551 pg 53 in the world.” Cody Fire Arms Museum, Whitney Gallery of Western WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA Art, Plains Indian Museum, Buffalo Bill Museum. 720 Sheridan Ave. VISITOR’S BUREAU GIFT SHOP Come in and browse our large MEDICAL SERVICES 307-587-4771 pg 50 JACKSON HOLE selection of gifts, souvenirs, jewelry, home decor, rocks, t-shirts, can- DUBOIS, WYOMING dles, Montana made items & more. Something for almost everyone. URGENT CARE OF JACKSON HOLE A lower cost alternative to 107 Canyon St 406-646-7831 pg 53 Emergency Room: athletic injuries, wound care/minor trauma, aller- NATIONAL BIGHORN SHEEP INTERPRETIVE CENTER Enjoyable & gy & asthma treatment, vaccinations/immunizations, physicals, well- educational experience."Sheep Mountain,"photos & hands-on GOLF–MINI /FRISBEE–MAZES–ALPINE SLIDE ness care, medical illnesses of all types. Open 7 days, evenings & all exhibits draw visitors into the majestic range & habits of these mag- JACKSON & TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING holidays. NO APPOINTMENT NECESSARY, in Smith’s Plaza, 1415 S nificent animals. Gift shop. 9am-8pm daily. 307-455-3429 pg 13 Hwy 89, 307-739-8999. PG 15 ALPINE MINI-GOLF A beautifully landscaped 18-hole miniature JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING golf course with waterfalls, ponds & Teton views. Located next to OUTDOOR SHOPS RIPLEY’S BELIEVE IT OR NOT! What’s the strangest thing you’ve seen the Alpine Slide at Snow King Resort. Open 10am daily. 307-733- CODY, WYOMING today? A shrunken head? A two headed calf? Jewelled animals? A very 7680 pg 42 large cigar? See it at Ripley’s Believe it or Not today! A half block north THE ALPINE SLIDE AT SNOW KING RESORT All ages, go at your SIERRA TRADING POST OUTLET STORE Cody’s best selection of of the Jackson Town Square, 140 N. Cache, 734-0000 PG 43 own speed down a 2500-foot slide. Group rates. Daily from 10am. outdoor clothing and equipment. The North Face, Carhartt, Kelty, RIVER RUNNERS MUSEUM Historic boats, rafts, artifacts & replicas At the yellow & blue chairlift above the Snow King Resort Hotel. Vasque, Marmot, Pearl Izumi, Lowe Alpine. Just south of the Buffalo take visitors into another era, when river running was a courageous 307-733-5200 pg 42 Bill Historical Center, 1402 8th Street, 307-578-5802 pg 51 & risky means of travel. In the Mad River Boat Trips “Wedge,” 1255 GET LOST AT AMAZE'N JACKSON HOLE Jackson's only GIANT DUBOIS, WYOMING S Hwy 89, Jackson 307-733-6203 pg 25 MAZE! Too hot? Get totally cool with SQUIRT GUN FUN! Try our WHISKEY MOUNTAIN TACKLE We are a full sporting goods store WILDLIFE EXPEDITIONS OF TETON SCIENCE SHCOOLS provides year- BUNGEE TRAMPOLINE, too! Family Fun at it's BEST! 45 E. Snow King that offers the area’s largest selection of flies, topo maps, hunting round wildlife viewing & natural history interpretation to anyone inter- Ave (307)734-0455 pg 43 & camping gear. Licenses & ATV permits also. 307-455-2587 pg 58 ested in close-up, ethical viewing of Greater Yellowstone’s wild animals in their natural habitat. www.wildlifeexpeditions.org 307-733-2623 pg 13 9-HOLE FRISBEE GOLF Course starts at Jackson Hole Sports in Teton WIND RIVER GEAR Find books, maps, trekking poles, tents, sleep- Village. Course is free, maps, info and discs available in the shop. ing bags, camp gear, canoes, kayaks, technical clothing, footware, 307-739-2687 pg 45 GPS, compasses, rain gear, casual wear, optics, even canine gear for PINEDALE, WYOMING your best friend. ....where outdoor adventures begin. pg 58 71st ANNUAL GREEN RIVER RENDEZVOUS PAGEANT This hour- GONDOLA–CHAIRLIFTS JACKSON & TETON VILLAGE, WYOMING long re-enactment relives the early mountain man & Indian history of JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING the area. “Meet Me on the Green!” Sunday, July 15, 1pm at the HOBACK SPORTS Jackson’s largest & complete bike & outdoor Pinedale Rodeo Grounds. 307-367-2242. pg 57 JACKSON HOLE BRIDGER GONDOLA From Teton Village ride the shop. Staffed by professionals who can rent, repair, fit & accessorize. gondola up Rendezvous Mountain to 9,095’ for spectacular views of Hiking & running shoes and accessories. 520 West Broadway-#3. 307- MUSEUM OF THE MOUNTAIN MAN Exhibits on fur trade, Jackson Hole & the surrounding mountains. Complimentary guided 733-5335 pg 19 Mountain Men, Plains Indians and Western exploration. Open daily hike into Grand Teton National Park. 307-739-2654 pg 45 9am-5pm through September 30. Green River Rendezvous weekend JACKSON HOLE SPORTS In the Bridger Center, Teton Village, is July 12-15, 2006. Toll free-877-686-6266 pg 56 JH PARAGLIDING Tandem paragliding rides from the top of the your one-stop shop for an active summer outing. Sportswear, shoes, Bridger Gondola, 9,095’. Instruction available. Reservations & rates accessories & Resort wear for the entire family. Mountain bike WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA stop by Café 6311 in the Bridger Center at the base of the Bridger rentals and lift tickets. 307-739-2687 pg 45 GRIZZLY & WOLF DISCOVERY CENTER An exciting visit awaits the Gondola, (307) 690-4948 pg 45 LEISURE SPORTS We Rent Adventure! Rafts, canoes, kayaks, duck- entire family where you’ll see live grizzly bears & a pack of gray wolves. SNOW KING SCENIC CHAIRLIFT Enjoy a view like no other of ies, catarafts, drift boats, fly fishing equipment, camping gear, SUVs, Daily activities include live bird-of-prey presentations, camping safely Jackson Hole & the Tetons from the top of Snow King Mountain. and economy cars. Guided fishing trips available. Full outdoor retail demonstrations, films & special kids activities. 1-800-257-2570 pg 54 Guided nature hikes & picnic area. 307-733-5200 pg 42 too.1075 S. Hwy 89, Jackson, 307-733-3040 pg 27 YELLOWSTONE IMAX THEATRE Shown on a 6-story high screen TEEWINOT CHAIRLIFT Ride Teewinot Chairlift in Teton Village with MERRELL For 25 years Merrell® has been providing outdoor enthu- with 6-channel digital surround sound, “Yellowstone” highlights your bike to access miles of single track for all types of riders. Tickets siasts with quality performance footwear for their active and after the history, wildlife & geothermal aspects of our country’s first & bike rentals available at Jackson Hole Sports in the Bridger Center, sport pursuits. Available at Hoback Sports, Jackson Bootlegger, and national park. 101 Canyon St. 888-854-5862 pg 54 at the base of the lift. 307-739-2687 pg 45 Teton Village Sports. pg 5 SEEYELLOWSTONE.COM Tours of Yellowstone & Grand Teton RENDEZVOUS RIVER SPORTS Jackson’s paddle sport headquarters. National Parks. Summer: Geyser & Wildlife van tours. Winter: snow- We have a full selection of top brand merchandise & offer guided coah & snowmobling tours. Discount packages with lodging 1-800- GUIDES & OUTFITTERS tours & lessons. 945 W. Broadway in the Sidewinders Building. 307- 221-1151 www.seeyellowstone.com pg 53 733-2471 PG 27 FISHING–HORSEBACK RIDING–HUNTING YELLOWSTONE INTERPRETIVE TOURS Summer van tours, winter TOGWOTEE PASS–DUBOIS, WYOMING SNAKE RIVER KAYAK & CANOE Whitewater Rafting, canoe & snowcoach tours. Wildlife viewing, geyser watching, overnights kayak instruction. Fly-fishing instruction & guided fishing trips. Full available. Also guided snowmobile tours all in Yellowstone. THUNDER MOUNTAIN OUTFITTERS 3-6 day horse-pack, fishing, service paddle sports specialty shop. snakeriverkayak.com 307-733- Authorized park concessionaires. 1-800-548-9551 pg 53 covered wagon & hunting trips into the Absaroka & Wind River 9999 pg 27 Mountains. 800-661-4928 or 307-455-2225 TETON VILLAGE SPORTS Specializing in mountain recreation TOGWOTEE MOUNTAIN LODGE 1 hour, 2 hour, Half day, Full day equipment including apparel & shoes for hiking, biking, fishing & WEDDINGS, CONVENTIONS, PARTIES rides into Bridger-Teton National Forest. Ages 5+. Amazing Teton frisbee golf, not to mention it’s winter all summer long for skiers & JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING views. Overnight and fishing trips available. snowboarders. Rentals & repairs. 307-733-2181 pg 17 JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT Full service resort in Teton [email protected], 1-800-543-2847. pg 35 WESTBANK ANGLERS Jackson Hole’s fly fishing experts. Most com- Village. Hotels, restaurants, lounges, recreation. 307-733-2292 pg 45 WHISKEY MOUNTAIN TACKLE We are a full sporting goods store plete selection of flies & tackle available. Mail order & website cat- that offers the area’s largest selection of flies, topo maps, hunting alogues. Retail store on the Teton Village Road, just North of the NOTEWORTHY MUSIC AGENCY Provides entertainment for all & camping gear. Licenses & ATV permits also. 307-455-2587 pg 58 Aspens. 307-733-6483 or 800-922-3474 pg 33 types of occasions. Call Mike Calabrese, 307-733-5459 pg 42 JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING TETON VALLEY-VICTOR, IDAHO SIGNAL MOUNTAIN LODGE Resort on Lake Jackson in Grand Teton NP May-Oct. www.signalmountainlodge.com (307) 543-2831 pg 33 A. J. DeROSA’S FISHING TRIPS Guiding fishermen since 1978. VICTOR EMPORIUM Where the locals shop for fishing advice & Dedicated guides respect the sport & the fragile resource & deliver gear! Hats, gifts, T-shirts, ice cream, World Famous Huckleberry SNOW KING RESORT Groups of 10-900. Board meetings to moun- a quality experience within those parameters. Private overnight fish- Shakes, & more. Something for every member of the family, even tain-top bar-b-ques. 307-733-5200 pg 42 ing trips at our River Camp. 307-732-BOAT pg 29 the dog! Downtown Victor. 208-787-2221 pg 59 TETON MOUNTAIN LODGE Luxury full-service resort hotel at REEL DEAL ANGLERS Custom fly fishing trips in Wyoming, Idaho Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Indoor/outdoor pools, hot tubs & full and Montana designed to make your experience unforgettable. RODEO service spa. Banquets & catering available. 307-734-7111 pg 47 Multiple daily river options for fishing the best public and private CODY, WYOMING TOGWOTEE MOUNTAIN LODGE Out-of-the-way venue for winter or sum- waters. 877-744-0522 pg 35 mer weddings. Indoor & outdoor reception sites, restaurant, bar, banquet & CODY NITE RODEO Best of Buffalo Bill’s Wild West. All Rodeo Events. SIGNAL MOUNTAIN LODGE Resort on Lake Jackson in Grand Teton catering [email protected], 1-800-543-2847. pg 35 Nightly at 8:00, June 1– Aug. 31. Kid’s events, clowns, covered grand- NP-incl. cabins, restaurants/lounge, boat rentals, scenic float trips, PINEDALE, WYOMING stand, free parking. Tickets available at the covered wagon in city park, guided fishing trips, gift shops, and campgrounds. Open May-Oct. SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE MountainManCountry.com pg 56 www.signalmountainlodge.com (307) 543-2831 pg 33 front gate & various businesses. 307-587-5155 or 800-207-0744 pg 37 JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING WHITE PINE SKI AREA & RESORT Sublette County's Largest Resort. SNAKE RIVER KAYAK & CANOE Fly-fishing instruction & guided Lodging, Fine Dining, Catered Events, Retreats, 307-367-6606. pg 57 fishing trips. snakeriverkayak.com 307-733-9999 pg 27 JH RODEO Wild West action - Jackson’s lowest-priced family activi- TETON VILLAGE A tour on horseback is a great way to see Grand ty, kid’s events. Family-$40 Wednesdays & Saturdays - 8:00. Reserved WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA Teton National Park or to catch a glimpse of wildlife. From Teton seats - $14 per ticket. Free parking. Special July 4th Rodeo. 4 blocks DAYS INN 116 rooms downtown West Yellowstone, only 3 blocks Village hourly/all-day rides can be reserved. Call 307-732-3618 pg 45 from downtown Jackson. 307-733-2805 pg 37 from Yellowstone NP, 301 Madison Avenue, 1-800-548-9551 pg 53 www.focusproductions. com 2007 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 61 • CODY • DUBOIS • JACKSON HOLE • RED LODGE • MAMMOTH • GARDINER • PINEDALE • WYOMING • IDAHO • MONTANA • YELLOWSTONE • URVN WSBR • NK IE • RSVNR • OWTEPS • RN EOS ODFIHU PHSA• BUFFALO B • PAHASKA DUNRAVEN • WASHBURN • SNAKE RIVER GROS VENTRE TOGWOTEE PASS • GRAND TETONS • OLD FAITHFUL

To Three To Bozeman To Livingston Forks Red To Billings To Billings Big Sky Y MONTANA Ennis e Lodge 15 l 89 CUSTER r l e o w Granite Pk. 12,799 ft. NATIONAL 308 iv ▲ R 39 s k t Highest Point In Montana. e k o FOREST re r 41 n C 212 72 o 191 e k F R c s GALLATIN o k r G iv R a Gardiner la l e Cooke City la North Entrance Northeast Entrance C NATIONAL ti r n B R e a r t o Beartooth Pass iv Tower o t h FOREST e Mammoth M 10,940 r o u Hot Springs Junction 18 n t 287 18 29 a i n 31 50 s 22 Ch ief J ose ph Hebgen 21 Sc iso en ad n 19 Yellowstone ic M R Lake H 120 iv i e gh r Sunlight Basin w 8 National Park ay 18 r Norris e v 296 i 26 To Powell 87 R Canyon Y 13 West Yellowstone n e o 12 l Lam k a M b l o o West Entrance o arR r u b a i wsto iver s n t G ATIN • WIND RIVER • ABSAROKARIVER • WIND • ATIN VALLEY • WAPITI 14 b a 14 A 14 n A i n 17 Henrys e s 16 R i Lake v Madison e Fishing r r Junction e Bridge v i 42 R e l 27 Cody 14 o 16 Bridge Lake 52 h Pahaske Tepee 16 e 14 r y i Bay piti Valle 20 F 21 16

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o w e Y F L e llo s ake R FOREST ’ Sn iver y South Entrance w r s n Flagg Ranch to e H r n ive e ls R BRIDGER-TETON Fal 89 R Mountain i Ashton NATIONAL FOREST A v Grand b e s r a ek r 50 Teton re o Country 27 c C k ifi a r ac n Rive National P M Teto o Magazine 32 u 33 55 Park n Jackson Yellowstone Outfitters t www.focusproductions.com Signal Mountain Wagons West a Lake i Rexburg Lodge ffalo River n Tetonia Grand Moran Bu s Targhee Liegh Lake Togwotee Mountain Lodge Resort Jenny Togwotee Pass SCALE: 1 inch = approx: 20 miles Lake 26 9,658 feet Upper Wind River Val Teton Range 89 55 55 Moose 191 BRIDGER-TETON Brooks Lake Driggs NATIONAL FOREST W in Approximate milage between red dots Teton Science School d 33 Jackson Hole R Mountain Resort iv Gro er Teton Village s 26 Kelly Slide V INFORMATION Teton Valley en 287 31 Lake tre Triangle C Ranch ley R BOZEMAN, MONTANA Westbank Anglers G iv Victor e 406-586-5421 31 Westside Store r r Dubois Westside Wine & Spirits o s d CODY, WYOMING Union Pass a 390 V o 22 e 307-587-2297 21 n R C Wilson s DUBOIS, WYOMING t s o Torrey 23 r a n e P 307-455-2556 To Idaho Falls To Teton Pass Jackson t Lake n i Enclosure M n To BRIDGER • SHOSHONE NEZ PERCE HOBACK ILL o Trial GARDINER, MONTANA Granite Hot i Swan Valley Climbing o e Riverton

Center Springs u n n Lake Lander 406-848-7971 26 U n ta t l GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK 26 13 k a D e r 307-739-3300 Hoback e i r e i

n v C v JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING i Junction e s Green i d it n R River 307-733-3316 e

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k e 406-222-0850 89 R r IDAHO iv W on er G Gannett Pk. MEETEESE, WYOMING 23 Cany 352 i n ▲ iver d 13,804 ft. 307-868-2423 Palisades Res. ake R 189 R PINEDALE, WYOMING Sn i Highest Point Alpine Junction 191 v In Wyoming 307-367-2242 BRIDGER-TETON e 53 New Fork Lakes r POWELL, WYOMING M 307-754-3494 CARIBOU NATIONAL FOREST o RED LODGE, MONTANA 33 Fremont u NATIONAL G Willow Lake Lake n 406-446-1718 r t e WYOMING TETON VALLEY/DRIGGS, IDAHO a FOREST S y 89 s Soda Lake White Pine i 208-354-2500 tar V n R Ski Area & i Resort s WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA v e 406-646-7701 r Half Moon Lake alley WIND RIVER VISITORS COUNCIL 11 Burnt 189 Pinedale Lake 800-645-6233 Boulder Lake YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK Afton 191 307-344-7381 T o Big Piney & Evanston Map design by Bob Woodall T o Evanston Copyright 2007-Focus Productions T o Rock Springs

• MADISON MORAN FIREHOLE GIBBON TEEWINOT • SNOW ROOSEVELT LODGE • WASHBURN • JENNY LAKE • LEIGH LAKE • KING NORRIS • GALL • HAYDEN VALLEY • MOOSE • WILSON • TETON VILLAGE • DRIGGS • VICTOR • GRAND TARGHEE • BEARTOOTH • COOKE CITY •

62 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 2007 Jackson’s Picture Place Since 1960

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• Tripods Professional Film Processing CACHE PEARL 60 S. Cache Street, Jackson, WY 83001 www.focusproductions. com 2007 MOUNTAIN COUNTRY 63 ON THE WEST SIDE OF THE SQUARE 307-733-3279 JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING www.cadillac-grille.com [email protected] NEXT TO BILLY’S GIANT HAMBURGERS LARGE GROUPS AND PARTIES ARE WELCOME Photo: © Latham Jenkins/jhstock.com Food photo: David Swift, Swiftio.com