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Our Readers Author Thanks Send Us Your Feedback ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 881 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. Roberts, Michal Rudziecki, Jesse Sammons, OUR READERS Jose A Sanchez, Hans Schmidt, Fernando Many thanks to the travellers who used Schonfeldt Lecuona, James Scott, Gill Smith, the last edition and wrote to us with help- Martyn Swan, Wenjie Tang, Paloma Tejedor, ful hints, useful advice and interesting Sharon Toner, Barry Tunnah, Karen Valom, anecdotes: Eric Van Adelsberg, Margaret Vile, Miriam Miguel Abella, Jorge Alegre, Miguel Angel, Waite, Mark Webster, Neville Wells, Ken Miguel Angel Dieguez, Cagrı Aracı, Merce Ar- Westmoreland, David White, Amy Williamson, guelles, CJ Armstrong Jr, Anisa Atlasi, Abigail Yishay Yafeh, Adriane Yeo Bakker, Valerie Ballester, Vaskor Basak, Mike Bechley, Konstantin Bettenhausen, Enrique Bonggo, Andrea Brandle, Deana Briggs, AUTHOR THANKS Ursina Burkhard, Melanie Cardew, Cristina Anthony Ham Castellvi Sarbakhshe, Michael Cooke, An- During a decade of living in Madrid, I have nabel Cowley, Claire De Brabandere, Chad been welcomed and assisted by many Dehmler, Nicole Dicke, Belén Echeandia, people whose lives and stories have become Robin Eyre, Mario Falzon, Rob Ferguson, a treasured part of the fabric of my own. A Natalia Fernández, Regina Fouquin, Michael huge thank you to my wonderful team of Gogolen, Edwina Golombek, Tana Gomis, Paz coauthors, and to the wise Dora Whitaker at Gonzalez, S González, Bob Gunning, Helen Lonely Planet. It was my great fortune a week Haines, Theresa Hansen, Stefan Hornke, after arriving in Madrid to meet my wife and Richard Hume, Jennifer Jader, Max Jordan, soulmate, Marina, who has made this city a Jose Jurado Pacheco, Giselle La Rock, Beate true place of the heart. And to my daughters, Lang, Tim Laslavic, May Lee, Micaela Levine, Carlota and Valentina: truly you are Madrid’s Shihe Ma, Nacho Martin, Marthissa März, greatest gifts of all. Monica Massari, Travis Massey, Jim Mill, Cristina Montes, Jamie Murrie, Rika Nauck, Stuart Butler Hedi Nore, Paul Ormrod, Carrie Osgood, First and foremost, I must once again thank David Owens, Sheila Padden, Barry Parks, my wife Heather for all her love and support, José Manuel Perulero, Shirley Qin, Daryl and my young son, Jake, for putting up with Reilly, Alina Riskute, Michael Ritzert, Andy daddy being away so much – and to them 882 both for their help in such devotion to re- Regis St Louis searching the pintxos of San Sebastián and I’m grateful for all the great advice from lo- Bilbao. Thank you also to my coauthor Miles cals, expats and tourism staff. In particular, Roddis for stepping in at short notice – twice! I’d like to thank Eric Mills, Sol Polo, Maria Gracias to all the tourist office staff, hotel and Asunción Guardia, Margherita Bergamo restaurant owners, and everyone else who Meneghini, Meritxell Checa Esteban and helped out with my chapters. friends, Carine Ferry, Laura of Runnerbean, and Diego in Barri Gotic. Thanks also to edi- Anna Kaminski B tors Dora Whitaker and Angela Tinson, and eh I’m very grateful for all the great advice from Vesna Maric for tips on the road. Finally, big IN friends, locals and tourism staff. In particular, hugs to my wife and daughters for their con- d I’d like to thank my long-suffering flatmates – tinued support. T Pete and Andrea, Dawn for uncomplainingly he traipsing around Costa Brava with me, Tony in Andy Symington sCeN Taüll, Matthew Tree for providing perspective, I owe gratitude to many people in tourist David and Eva for the warm hospitality, Fer- offices, on streets, in cabs. Particular thanks nando in Sitges, José and María in Cadaqués, to the SPP team and Anthony Ham, to es and to Salvador Ortiz-Carboneres for teach- José Eliseo Vázquez González and Carmen ing me. A big thank you to Anthony Ham for Rodríguez Aláez for logistical, moral and the support and advice, to Dora Whitaker for culinary support, to Alejandra Abulafia, Javier entrusting me with this task, and the rest of de Celis Sánchez, Lourdes Villa Diez, Mario the Lonely Planet team. Urbano Martín, Zoraida Vaquero Menéndez and Darío Castro Pérez for regional exper- Miles Roddis tise, to Richard Prowse for transport, and Thanks, as always and ever, to Ingrid, who to my family for encouragement. And, most keeps me on the right track in both my life importantly, mil gracias to Elena Vázquez and my writing. Nudges, winks and a smirk or Rodríguez, travel companion, soulmate and two towards Poppy and Lily for their insights so much more. into Valencia after dark. Brendan Sainsbury ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Many thanks to all the untold bus drivers, Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, tourist info volunteers, sherry pourers, fla- Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated menco singers and innocent bystanders who World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate helped me during my research, particularly Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System to Dora Whitaker for offering me the gig, Sciences, 11, 1633 44. Anthony Ham for his coordinating skills, and Barcelona Metro Map © TMB Metro 2010 Josephine Quintero, John Noble and Daniel Madrid Metro Map © Diseño Raro S.L. 2010 Illustrations pp84, 258, 276, 668, 734, 746 by Schechter for their backup. Special thanks Javier Zarracina. to my wife Liz and six-year-old son Kieran Cover photograph: Segovia Cathedral, Chris- for their company in countless bars, buses, tian Kober/AWL flamenco clubs and hotel rooms. 883 THIS BOOK Coordinating Editor Assisting Layout Branislava Vladisavljevic Designers Clara Monitto, This guidebook was com- Jacqui Saunders missioned in Lonely Planet’s Coordinating Cartogra- London office. It was re- pher Peter Shields Cover Research searched and written by a Coordinating Layout Naomi Parker dedicated team of authors. Designer Mazzy Prinsep Internal Image Research Anthony Ham coordinated Managing Editors Annelies Claire Gibson B the group, which comprised Mertens, Angela Tinson Illustrator Javier Zarracina eh Stuart Butler, Anna Ka- Managing Cartographers IN minski, John Noble, Miles Shahara Ahmed, Mark Imogen Ban- Thanks to d Roddis, Brendan Sainsbury, Griffiths, Diana Von Holdt nister, Basque Tour, Elin T Regis St Louis and Andy Managing Layout Berglund, Nigel Chin, Daniel he Symington. Anthony, Stuart, Designers Jane Hart Corbett, Laura Crawford, sCeN John, Miles and Brendan Assisting Editors Susie David Elexgaray, Ryan all contributed to previous Ashworth, Andrew Bain, An- Evans, Jennifer Fernández, editions, as did Damien Si- drea Dobbin, Lorna Goodyer, Larissa Frost, Chris Girdler, es monis, Josephine Quintero, Carly Hall, Elizabeth Jones, Itziar Herran, Jouve India, Zora O’Neill, Sarah Andrews, Anne Mason, Joanne Newell, Gabrielle Innes, Andi Jones, Arpi Armenakian Shively, Kristin Odijk, Charlotte Orr, Oihana Lazpita, Chris Lee Susan Forsyth, Fiona Adams, Charles Rawlings-Way, Tracy Ack, Kate McDonell, Wayne Mark Armstrong, Fionn Dav- Whitmey Murphy, Mardi O’Connor, enport, Tim Nollen, Andrea Trent Paton, Susan Paterson, Schulte-Peevers, Corinne Assisting Cartographers Jeff Cameron, Csanad Martine Power, LUR Publi- Simcock, Daniel Schechter, caciones, Kirsten Rawlings, Des Hannigan, Richard Csutoros, Xavier Di Toro, Rachel Imeson, Joelene Raphael Richards, Jonathan Sterling, Elizabeth Swan and Ricketson, Averil Robert- Dr Caroline Evans. Kowalski, Gabriel Lindquist, Samantha Tyson son, Dianne Schallmeiner, Commissioning Editor Amanda Sierp, Helena Dora Whitaker Smith, Iñigo Uriarte, Gerard Walker 884 Alicante 585-9, 586 travel seasons 369 Aljafería 373-4, 832, 833 villages 392, 392-3 Almagro 217-20 Aranjuez 130-1 Almería 772-4 archaeological museums Almería province 772-8 A Coruña 523 Almodóvar, Pedro 118 A Guarda 541 Almohads 814, 815 Albacete 222 Almoravids 814, 815 Albarracín 403 Almuñécar 761-3 Alicante 585 Alquézar 394-5, 392 Almería 773 Altamira 475, 497, 811 Altamira 475 Altea 582 Badajoz 803 1992 Barcelona Olympics 280, 826 altitude sickness 856 Barcelona 280 2004 Madrid bombing 69, 827 America, exploration of 788, 817-19 Bilbao 413 Andalucía 61, 657-778, 660-1 Cádiz 689 A accommodation 657 Cartagena 602 Córdoba 737-8 A Coruña 523-7, 524 activities 658 A Guarda 541-2 climate 657 Coria 796 abseiling 142, 342 flamenco 13, 13 Elche 593-4 accommodation 850-3, see also food 41-2, 657 Figueres 327 individual locations highlights 660-1 Girona 318 apartments 283, 562, 850-1 history 659 Huesca 396 booking 20 internet resources 658 Jerez de la Frontera 698 children, travel with 56 itineraries 32 Lorca 605 language 20, 872 national parks 658, 757, 757 Madrid 90 activities 44-52, 54, see also planning 657-8 Mérida 800-1
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