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����������������������������� ����������������������������������������� ��������������� ������������ 2 The Reykjavík Grapevine Hafnarstræti 15, 2nd floor www.grapevine.is [email protected] ISSUE 8: JUNE 24 - JULY 7, 2005 Published by: Bazar Publishing ehf.

Editor: 540-3602 / [email protected] rticles Advertising: 540-3605 / 616-7731 / [email protected] A Marketing: 540-3603 / 869-7796 / [email protected] Distribution: Interview with Sigríður Dögg Auðunsdóttir 540-3601 / 694-2538 / [email protected] 06 Production: 540-3608 / 849-5611 / [email protected] 12 Grapevine’s Government Guide. Listings: 552-3600 / 847-9290 / [email protected] Who They Are and How They Vote Subscription: 540-3601 / 694-2538 / [email protected]

14 Interview with Jello Biafra Publisher: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / [email protected] Editor: Bart Cameron / [email protected] 16 Benign Carelessness Marketing Director: Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / An interview with Director Dagur Kári [email protected] Production Manager: Oddur Óskar Kjartansson / Features [email protected] Art Direction: Jóhannes Kjartansson / [email protected] (Iceland) Mired in Tradition 18 Hörður Kristbjörnsson / [email protected] (Global) Iceland’s Courts and Sexual Assault Law Staff Journalist: Paul Fontaine-Nikolov / [email protected] 20 Iron Maiden Editorial Intern: Sari Peltonen / [email protected] The spandex-clad knights of British metal! Advertising Sales: Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] Helgi Þór Harðarson / [email protected] 24 Screaming Viking, Ignoring the Volcano Photographs: Hörður Sveinsson / [email protected] Problems with Iceland’s economy aren’t superficial. Guðmundur Freyr Vigfússon / [email protected] Frímann Kjerúlf / [email protected] Essentials Proofreader: Erika Wolfe Distribution: Jóhann Páll Hreinsson 28 City Guide 30 Shopping Guide Cover Photo by: Gúndi and Grapevine Purchases That Justify Existence On Cover: Hilmar Þór Hafsteinsson & Anna Clausen Hair & Makeup: Sóley Ástudóttir Foreigner’s Guide to Buying Fish 31 Stylists: Anna Clausen & Sóley Ástudóttir with Lína Móey & Berglind Rögnvaldsdóttir 32 Restaurant reviews Thanks to: Eggert Feldskeri, Kron, Ásgeir Þormóðsson, Kjartan Jóh, Loftur, Sigurður, Jónína & Þjóðmenningarhús 33 Bezt í Heimi Printed by: Ísafoldarprentsmiðja ehf. The best restaurants in the world. # of copies: 30,101 Arts & Culture 34 Grapevine Book Reviews Nei! sagði litla skrímslið (No! said the little monster) 35 The Grapevine Presents A Spoken Word Creation 36 “Gullpensillinn” (“The Gold Brush”) Turpentine Gallery 38 Grapevine Has Bad Taste Concert Reviews 40 Album Reviews: 80’s Bands 42 Live Concert Reviews: 17 June Concerts and The New Breed at Keflavík 44 Batman Begins Superhero Actors, Supervillain Script. 45 Dark Horse Boy Meets Girl Raises the Stakes in Icelandic Cinema 46 Hotel Review Radisson with Local History Outside Reykjavík 40-53 Driving the Ring Road, Jökulsárlón, Hótel Skaftafell, Grapevine on Tour: Cooking and Travelling Thailand 54 Lodgings: The Salvation Army Guesthouse Garðabær: Miðhraun 11 - Akureyri: Glerárgata 32 - Also availableReykjavík: in selected Kringlan shops - aroundBankastræti Iceland. 5 - Lækjargata 4 - Faxafen 12 OUR STORES BY PRESENTING THIS COUPON GET A 10% DISCOUNT OF EVERYTHING IN Keeping Iceland warm since 1926

JÓNSSON & LE’MACKS • jl.is LETTERS Complaints, criticism, suggestions, praise, money, anything at all: Contact [email protected] or send your mail to: The Reykjavík Grapevine, Hafnarstræti 15, 101 Reykjavík. Hi Bart, From: Kara Hnjukar [mailto: observing Icelanders in regards to I was in Iceland until yesterday [email protected]] people of color and immigrants. doing my journo-ing bit looking at Others would describe my a new product made by an Icelandic “It should be noted that the fascination as freakish obsession company and picked up an issue term “professional protestor” since I am a black woman from of the Grapevine in my hotel, (atvinnumótmælandur) has been Alabama. Most people in Alabama the Bjork. I like the look of the frequently used to describe those suffer from severely localized Grapevine, long may it succeed and practicing civil disobedience in mentalities. When I was moving prosper. Iceland. The term is inaccurate, to London years ago, countless Something else that caught my as there is no such thing as a southerners asked me what language attention was the Icelandic girl in “professional protestor.” they spoke “over there.” But, I the rather beat-up, soft-top Suzuki Of course professional protestors digress. Vitara jeep, which had broken down exist. Throughout history, imperial right in the middle of Laugavegur forces on both right and left have I visited Iceland in April through on Wednesday at around noon. often bribed citizens to turn against Icelandair’s Midweek Getaway. I Now obviously, most British guys their own government. Surely you had an amazing trip. Yes, the natural would be far too reserved to ask for must have heard the term “fifth wonders and horseback riding were the phone number of a woman in columnist”? nice, but my best days were spent distress. Normally, I would have schlepping around Reykjavík’s thrown caution to the wind and Closer to home, you say that “all are coffeehouses. As much as I would asked, but I was on my way to catch welcome” to join the demonstration like to say that I no longer feel a bus to the airport to come home. outside the Ministry of Justice. You drawn to Icelandic history and So, through your letters pages, are presumably being paid a salary immigration issues, I cannot. I feel may I enquire as to the condition at the Grapevine so the Icelandic more compelled to study the strange of her battery now (well, I am an government could claim that you are way Icelanders insist bigotry doesn’t automotive journalist!) and whether, a “professional protestor”. happen in their country. For some should she read this, she might send reason, Icelanders seem to think that me either her phone number, or e- And let’s not forget that Susan de placing focus on preservation of their mail? I’ll be coming back to Iceland Muth, the author of that Guardian lineage and culture has nothing to do later this year and would be happy piece, is the wife of protestor Ólafur with bigotry. It’s the same mentality to bring a new set up ‘jump leads’ Páll Sigurðsson. Presumably she that fueled the Ku Klux Klan in the with me. was paid for the article, which the United States. Racism doesn’t have How many girls are there in Icelandic government and others to be a violent act or a yelled slur. Reykjavík that drive beat-up white claim to be highly inaccurate It is more offensive in those small Suzuki Vitaras? I’ll be happy to share – professional protesting by a every day acts. But, I am not writing that information with you in due journalist. And that’s nothing new. to flog Iceland because I live in the course! Incidentally, on another hypocrisy capital of the modern tack, why is it that Icelanders are so This kind gentleman confirms the world. blind to the treasures that are right definition of “professional protestor” not there in front of them? I’m talking with the fascist belief that if you have a I would like to know if there is any about 1930s ‘Art Deco’ buildings. view that doesn’t match the government way someone like myself could assist True, there are quite a few bad you are there to cause disorder. No, he with your paper on a volunteer level. examples, but Reykjavík has some advances it to a unique level: if you I currently live in Philadelphia and really excellent - if rather neglected report on someone who doesn’t fully have writing experience. I work as a - examples that with a little bit of agree with the government you are a copy editor at a financial firm. imagination could provide more than “professional protestor.” Excellent logic. a good enough reason to visit the April Dobbins city. If you, or the Icelandic tourist We are familiar with the term fifth office doesn’t believe me, look no column, a term coined by General We welcome submissions from around further than the equally hard to Mola in during the Spanish Civil the world, though we focus mainly on reach New Zealand city of Napier War, but that has since been used to local issues. We pay all writers as much for inspiration. scare populations about foreign-born as we can. I managed to (just) find enough populations, especially popular against time to start photographing the best Jews in Britain in the middle of the Regarding blatant racism, in this examples I could find and asked last century, as Jews would be loyal, issue we decided not to print any of the a number of local book dealers according to their accusers, to anarchists Iceland is a white motherland emails and antique dealers whether there and Bolsheviks. How curious to see the that we receive. For one thing, they was a society in Iceland for term thrown about in Iceland when have gotten more violent in tone and the preservation of what I think a group of locals want to protest big they are not adding to the stupid racist Icelanders call ‘funky’ 1930s-style business. discussion—so if you want to read buildings and objects. With massive about ignorant angry racists, read any degrees of redevelopment now taking The kindly gentleman also confuses of our back issues. place in the city centre, it would be a the Grapevine for any and all foreign great shame if this heritage was lost media. There he is correct. The foreign Another reason we aren’t running any now in my view. media is actually a large jellyfish-like of the angry racist letters is because Is there an opening here for a new creature living in a parallel universe whenever we try to respond to one of the pressure group? If so, count me in. that sends bits of cruel information vicious, antagonistic pieces of mail in Malcolm through the cosmos undercutting the the hope of opening a dialogue, we find otherwise philanthropic ways of all local the email is blocked. That’s right, angry Oh boy, is this awkward. non-media peoples. There can be only racists are afraid of emailed replies from My girlfriend drives a beat-up, soft-top one answer to this dilemma: construct a journalists of free newspapers. Or, to white Suzuki Vitara jeep, which broke safety helmet from two parts cotton, one paraphrase our journalist Paul Nikolov, down in the middle of Laugavegur on part aluminium foil, and three parts the racists were using our letters page Wednesday. microwave chili. Don it. Now sit in like a bathroom wall, scribbling graffiti, your bath tub and repeat “The rain in not opening a discussion. Curse you automotive journalists and Spain falls mainly in the plains” until your ways!!!!!! the apocalypse wipes us from the planet.

Also, I wouldn’t start a pressure group Mr. Cameron, about preserving anything if I were I have a bit of a thing for Iceland. foreign. They’ll call you a professional I would describe my fascination as protestor. an intense interest in studying and

WULFFMORGENTHALER

see more at www.wulffmorgenthaler.com EDITORIALS 5 When You Own It, You Might Not Break It

When the guy that used to come by my house and The change in behaviour matches changes in major steal my hard boiled eggs got a 15 million ISK loan to cities in America that have undergone “gentrification”. buy an apartment, I knew things were probably going In American cities, there are mixed feelings about to change in Iceland. With no real precedent to look this phenomenon: yes, crime is down and property back on, I pictured thousands of locals ordering pints values are up, but the character of cities is fading away, of Absinthe from the bar, Monday through Sunday, especially as new people move in. on their immense home and small business loans. I Iceland has a different take on gentrification: with pictured rows and rows of Minis being driven into light changes in bank policies, the people who are buying ��������������������������� posts by unsigned bands with penchants for Chuck and changing the neighbourhoods are, for the most ��������������� Taylor All Stars. I pictured galleries springing up for part, the same people who lived there before, only they miles containing nothing but Polaroids of arty people now own the place. drinking to excess. I did not picture a whole generation of young I bring all this up because in this issue we’re taking artists and café workers suddenly taking out loans, a look at the new economy of Iceland. If you read Bart Cameron, Editor buying places, and being responsible. That seems to be through the interview with Fréttablaðið journalist what has happened. Sigríður Dögg Auðunsdóttir, you’ll get an idea as The fact that a large number of the typical rowdy to how much seems to have gone wrong with the crowd now own their living quarters and a part of the privatization of the local banks. Other aspects of the town is the best reason I can come up with for the economy also deserve close examination, and we do our celebrations on June 17th, Iceland’s Independence Day. best with this issue. Describing the unusually mellow festivities, a young Still, as when we reviewed difficulties with the friend put it best, “I was hanging out with my friends promotion of local culture, and as when we questioned on the 17th, and it was really weird because we were all the marketing of the image of the Icelandic woman, sober. And it was a nice time, but I never thought the we realize some things are going right. The positives holiday would be like that.” of being able to do things like come home and feel Time and time again, in asking about the recent you own the place are remarkable, and do stretch out holiday, I’ve been told that few remember a more sober into other aspects of daily life. We simply feel that the June 17th. True, many have told me that the drinking profits of the Icelandic Miracle should be handled fairly on June 16th was out of control, but I was out that and used to invest in the region so that 2005 won’t be night, I didn’t see too much damage. Iceland’s 1928.

Roberta Ostroff, the Grapevine restaurant reviewer, passed away this week. As her reviews hinted at, Roberta was an ambitious, energetic and generous writer. In her emails with the Grapevine as she learned of her illness, she consistently impressed us with her fearlessness and her ability to find humour and joy in ������������������������� every situation, even offering a fantastically amusing pitch for a review of Icelandic hospital food. ���������� She was an inspiration and she will be greatly missed. ����������� ������������ ������� ������ ������������ Nearly Independent ������� While my friends and I stretched out on Arnarholl not. I doubt MPs in India – which became independent ��������������������� on Independence Day, enjoying the sun and watching one year after Iceland - check British law before Gunnar & Felix yuck it up on stage, we noticed a ship passing legislation of their own. If an MP in Canada in the harbour proudly flying a huge Danish flag. This, (a country that has more in common with Britain than

I thought, should be cause for outrage among the India does and is in fact still under the British crown) ���� � �� � � � � � � Icelanders – their independence from Denmark is only suggested referring to British legislation before passing � �

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� 61 years old, after all, and for a Danish ship to hoist a a law in their own country, they would be laughed out � ���������� �� � �� reminder of Iceland’s colonized past is insulting. On of parliament. And yet Iceland continues to look to ������ the other hand, just how independent is Iceland from Denmark before making most of its legislative decisions. Denmark anyway? Here’s an idea: how about trying to flip that over? Ask a politician about where they got the idea for Why can’t Iceland be the trend-setter, the country that this or that law, and I can guarantee you that nearly the rest of Scandinavia, Europe, or even the world looks every time, their answer will begin with, “Well, as we to as a model? It does happen on occasion: Swedish see in Denmark . . .” Minister of Justice Björn Bjarnason government researcher Karl-Petter Thorwaldsson wrote a summed it up best when he told Grapevine earlier this report recently suggesting that maternity leave in Sweden Paul F Nikolov year, “Traditionally, Iceland has taken notice of legal be based on the Icelandic model of dividing up the Journalist & Online Editor trends in Denmark and, after this rule [referring to a maternity leave between both parents. This is something recently passed immigration law] became law there, we Iceland should be proud of. More to the point, what copied this law as our own.” When I spoke with Alliance if the Icelandic parliament simply crafted legislation Party MP Ágúst Ólafur Ágústsson about the bill he that meets the needs of the nation, determining its own introduced that would lift the statute of limitations destiny on Iceland’s terms? I thought that was the whole on sexually assaulting a child, he told me that when point of wanting independence. Independence Party MP Bjarni Benediktsson rejected the It can certainly be inspiring to raise a flag in your bill, one of the reasons Benediktsson gave for justifying backyard on June 17th, watch the fjallakona recite poetry the rejection was that Iceland should have similar laws to and listen to the Prime Minister read a laundry list of ������������������� other Nordic countries. Iceland’s accomplishments. But Iceland won’t be truly �������������������������� This sort of logic has always confounded me. Do independent until the legislative body can start thinking ������������� other formerly colonized countries check to see how for its own nation. �������������������� their former colonizers are voting before they make a decision on how to manage their own affairs? Probably

We take good care of you

Capuccino + bagel + yoghurt = 590 kr. Espresso bar open every day 08.00-00.00 - Lækjatorg (main square) 6 Bart Cameron Interviews Sigríður Dögg Auðunsdóttir the assessment was made to fit the purchase.

The privatization committee openly stated this? No. All off the record. But they told me that. And there was a very intense debate within the committee when they were deciding on how to evaluate the categories. It’s stated in reports from the government auditing office that the debate was heated, which resulted in one of the members of the privatization committee resigning in protest. Steingrímur Ári Árason. And that was a huge blow at the time.

But this is a meeting going on after the deal has been made? No, it was when they were deciding to go to talks with Samson. It was about how we can explain why we are dealing with Samson when their bid is the lowest one. In early September 2003.

I can’t help thinking in the back of my head about the recent news that all parties opened their books to show who donates to them except the Independence Party. Yeah.

If they opened their books, would

H.S. we see a significant contribution from Iceland’s richest man? I don’t know. There is a side story to this about Landsbankinn. Landsbankinn and the S-Group each Interview with Sigríður Dögg Auðunsdóttir owned 50% share in the insurance group VÍS. The Progressive Party, In the first week of June, daily newspaper Fréttablaðið ran a four-part front-page series private companies in Iceland? which has significant ties to the S- There were five investment groups Group, was not going to allow half explaining the many improprieties in the privatisation of the national banks of Iceland. With that showed interest. The three its share in VÍS to go to Samson. So blacked out profile photos of the Prime Minister and Foreign Minister, the story by Sigríður that were short-listed were Samson, there was a period just after Samson the S-Group and Kaldbakur, an was chosen that the S-Group calls Dögg Auðunsdóttir captured the imagination of the public. A month later, little has come of the investment group. Very shortly after the Six Day War over VÍS. Both series: an investigation into accusations by the government has turned up a not guilty statement, the list was made public, Kaldbakur Halldór Ásgrímsson and Davið though with little explanation. The Grapevine sat down with the investigative journalist who and the S-Group were getting Oddsson took part in this war over messages from the privatization VÍS. I’ve been told that Ásgrímsson took on the government, the richest man in Iceland, and the corporate establishment, and asked committee that they should join threatened to abort the privatization for a play-by-play on a piece of writing that will be in the history books. together and put an offer on process if VÍS was sold with Búnaðarbankinn, not Landsbankinn. Landsbankinn, which would result in From the start it was obvious to Can you explain to a foreigner what Davið Oddsson having to break up contacted Davíð Oddsson, Oddsson They thought this was an interesting some of the investors that Samson exactly is going on with the banking the government. The result was that spoke to the three other ministers offer. So Mr. Oddsson told was going to get Landsbankinn. scandal regarding privatization the S-Group bought the shares from in the Ministerial Committee on Björgólfur Guðmundsson to send the Halldór Ásgrímsson himself of Icelandic banks? Why were the Landsbankinn. Privatization. privatization committee a letter of coordinated a telephone meeting, foreign and prime ministers and the interest, which he did, so they could in which he participated, between cover of Fréttablaðið every day for Why fight over a smaller asset like He did contact the other ministers? discuss this letter without being told S-Group and Kaldbakur to get a week? an insurance company? It’s not a case of acting unilaterally? to do so by the ministers’ committee. them to work together. He has since If you want to use the word scandal, The S-Group needed VÍS to have Yeah, they had a meeting. The four Still, this offer was interesting. The admitted that this happened. even though we never used that word the credit to buy Búnaðarbankinn. ministers decided that they were money was coming from abroad, in our piece. What we did in those no longer going to sell the banks to which at this point was important. But he was essentially saying they four pieces is go through the story Okay, so where are the other the public but try to sell to the most The profit from the sale was to pay had no chance at Landsbankinn, of the privatization of the two banks problems? interested public party. down foreign debt, and the deal was the largest bank? from when it was first brought up in What’s now being investigated by to be done in dollars. That was a big That was after it was announced that 1997 in parliament and what actually the government auditor is Halldór Were the other ministers in the issue. Samson would buy Landsbankinn. happened until they were sold. Ásgrímsson’s direct involvement Independence Party? But what has never been made The deal between the government The government first tried to in the S-Group. He and his family The other ministers were Halldór public was that at that point the and Samson took place 31st of sell Landsbankinn in 2001 and hired own a significant share in a fishing Ásgrímsson [now Prime Minister decision to sell the bank to the public December 2002. In June 2003 S- [British Investment Bank] HSBC company, which owns a share in of the Progressive Party], Geir H. was aborted without telling anyone Group alone buys Búnaðarbankinn. to contact some foreign banks and Hesteyri, which owns a share in Haarde [Finance Minister of the that it had been the plan. The Samson, the S-Group and investment banks to see if they Ker, which is the main investor in Independence Party], and [Minister ministers decided to sell both of the Kaldbakur were all in the running were interested in buying at least Búnaðarbankinn. of Industry] Valgerður Sverrisdóttir banks without even discussing this for Landsbankinn, all along. The 25 or 33% or up to a 45% share in Not until now did the main of the Progressive Party. They with the privatization committee. two that didn’t get Landsbankinn Landsbankinn. This happened just auditor think it might be a good made the political decision on the What I’ve learned since I were going to get Búnaðarbankinn. after 9/11, when the world economy idea to see if Halldór should have privatization. Then there was a published the feature, and I have Samson had the lowest offer. But was put on hold for a few months, abstained from the deal because of privatization committee that was very solid insider information, is still got it. and nothing really happened. No one his direct ownership of one of the supposed to be an independent that Davið Oddsson just wanted was really interested. investment groups, at least until the committee to make sure the to sell Landsbankinn to Björgólfur Why would that happen? Why th So early 2002, the deal gets put 12 of November 2002 when his ministers obeyed the rules and that Guðmundsson; the Progressive would the lowest bid win? Were the on hold. And what has never been company sold its share of Ker in kind of thing, but obviously that Party has told me this, someone offers public? made public until these pieces was exchange for VÍS, which is still an didn’t happen. very much in the know, a source At the time I don’t think the offers that the privatization committee investor in Búnaðarbankinn. close to Halldór Ásgrímsson told were made public. No one really was preparing to sell the shares on a No one until now has seen a Dumb it down for me. Two me that Davíð Oddsson wanted to knew what the difference was. public market on the stock exchange. reason to question this connection. privatization committees? Is one sell Landsbankinn to Björgólfur, And they had made all necessary Ongoing discussion within the like a watchdog? announcing it afterwards. But Björgólfur and Samson had preparations until Björgólfur opposition. It has been dismissed as Yes, the other privatization Halldór Ásgrímsson and foreign capital. Guðmundsson of Samson contacted rumour. committee is made up of people the Valgerður Sverrisdóttir, both Yes, that was the explanation, that Prime Minister Davíð Oddsson and ministers appoint. Progressive members, had to force Samson had foreign capital. Plus said they were interested in buying How can that be dismissed? Isn’t it Oddsson not to do it. Had to force future plans, future vision. Number one of the banks. Björgólfur’s son, in the numbers? But if you’re appointed by the him to advertise the banks locally. three priority was the price. They did Björgólfur Thor, had met someone He claims it’s because people are out people you’re supposed to check? It’s interesting that despite the a scheme where they broke down the at HSBC in London at a party and to get him. The auditor will release No one in the privatization government wanting to sell the priorities. found out that they were no longer a report soon that says whether committee was independent. All banks to foreign investors, the banks trying to sell the banks. The plan had Ásgrímsson should have withdrawn were appointed by government were never advertised abroad. Only It seems like they could have gone just been thwarted. So he thought himself due to conflict of interest. ministers. in Iceland. reverse. 1) Price, 2) Vision, 3) there were two banks up for grabs, The auditor has already written two Foreign Capital. he might just try to get one of them. reports on these sales without having Of course. So did they verify that That might hurt foreign interest. Well the assessment, the claim of And when Björgólfur Guðmundsson found anything controversial. this was a good idea? So the banks were being sold to the privatization committee is that

Interview continued from page 6

How is that possible? the S-Group with a very competitive without saying anything. What are The reports never even said that rates of 1.4 over liber. we to do? I mean parliament can’t the privatization committee had S-Group paid in two payments: do anything, I mean the opposition prepared to sell the banks to the the first payment was 6.7 billion, parties have been trying but they’ve public. about the same as the loan. They been criticized by the government for merged with Kaupthing when the doing so. So where’d you get that valuation of the bank was up 9 But now Síminn [the national information? billion from when it was bought. phone company] is being sold. From the privatization committee. The discussion of the banking Someone told me accidentally and I They bought the bank for 11 privatization for the last three years had it confirmed. billion and it was valued at 20 will at least make sure that the sale of billion months later? Well, I just Síminn is more transparent. Any idea on how much could have can’t see what the problem could been made on the stock market? be. Buy a bank with a loan from Fool me twice, right? The market value was higher per the government, when you are No. share than what Samson got it for. the government. Get a bank that He bought it for 3.70 a share. is severely undervalued. Good What has been the reaction to you business. as a reporter? This is a big story, one Maybe the public didn’t have the Yes, well they eventually paid the of the biggest to come out in local money or interest in stocks? rest off and the loan off. But they journalism? In early 2002, they sold 25% to the were worth a lot more at the end of My phone didn’t stop for three public and it went very well. 2003. days. The readers were calling and thanking me for making this public So they could have made money on Okay. So are we caught up? What information and telling a story and the market. I’m curious, you said are the errors? documenting instead of just rumours. Samson was the third lowest. What The whole privatisation wasn’t Obviously the government were the other offers? transparent enough. It leaves too immediately started diminishing 4.10 per share from the S-Group many unanswered questions. Such both the story and me. From and 4.16 from Kaldbakur. Samson as why weren’t the banks advertised both parties. People came and did offered 3.90 which totalled 12.3 abroad? Why was no one ever interviews on television and radio, billion, but they got a 700 million told about the possibility of public talking about how badly this was ISK write off. 11.6 billion was paid. sale? Why was the price the third researched and written. But it was most important factor in selling completely untrue. One was even So Samson got a remarkable deal? Landsbankinn? Why was Halldór forced to apologize after a really Yes, a good deal less than market Ásgrímsson interfering? Why didn’t harsh unfounded criticism on value. And nobody else would have Ásgrímsson make it clear from the television, Björn Ingihrafnsson, the received the 700 million ISK write start that he and his family were assistant to the Prime Minister. off. involved in the S-Group? And why was all the information on the deal Is there any precedent for this kind And then the next bank? kept secret? This happened three of investigative piece in Icelandic Then the S-Group had the highest years ago. I think we have the right journalism? offer and bought Búnaðarbankinn to know. Not on this scale. Agnes for about 11.2 billion. Ragnardóttir at Morgunblaðið wrote Let’s go back to the investigation, in 2003 a story about the battle Hey, all right. Sounds legitimate. then. How did you get at this behind Íslandsbanki, but that was But an interesting thing there is the information without banking or more about the business sector. This involvement of a foreign investor government documents? was about the government. Hauck & Aufhauser, which was their It’s all from sources; I can’t give you main asset and part of the reason names but they’re very close to the Was it a difficulty that this story they got the deal. process. came out in Fréttablaðið? At the time S-Group went into To the majority of people it doesn’t negotiations, no one knew who the How many did you have to use for matter where it was published, only foreign investor was, including the this story? to those who dislike Fréttablaðið. privatization committee. The foreign Twenty. And all of the information No one can ever claim that the piece investor refused to make himself was double and triple checked. There would have been any different if it known. So they arranged a deal were lots of stories that I couldn’t get had been printed in Morgunblaðið, the HSBC to research the investor verified that weren’t in the reporting. because there was nothing in without revealing the name. there that wasn’t correct. But I have been denied access to the What time commitment did you government spokespeople were very HSBC official reports, but I know spend on this? quick to point out the connection that the privatization committee About five weeks doing nothing else. between Fréttablaðið and the Social got a report that stated there was Democrats, saying we were just an international investment group, What happens if people challenge trying to jumpstart their campaign. which sounds an awful lot like you for the sources? They even pointed out how quickly the Société Générale, the French They won’t. But already when the [Social Democratic Chairperson] investment bank. Some within first piece came out I got phone calls Ingibjörg Sólrún reacted to the piece, the privatization committee have from people close to Ásgrímsson though no one mentioned how claimed the S-Group gave HSBC and Oddsson saying they were quickly everyone else did as well. the name of Société Générale despite searching for who the sources were. the fact that they hadn’t secured an All the sources asked me to change This is a tactic you were familiar investor. And not until the deal was the way they phrased words, their with, I gather? signed in mid-January 2003 was the language, to make sure they couldn’t In early January, when I was covering name made public, and it was Hauck be recognized. Which I don’t think Iraq, criticizing the government, they & Aufhauser, a small private bank in is positive. Why can’t people just say started a story that the new CEO Germany. what happened? of [Fréttablaðið parent company] On the other hand, you have to 365 was writing for me. Valgerður So international investment use people off the record, because Sverrisdóttir wrote on her website group wouldn’t be an accurate these people have to do business with a piece about how I was a member description? each other again. I have to stress of the Social Democrats and I was S-Group’s key to get though that all of the information in bullying the Progressive Party. But Búnaðarbankinn was to have a the article was verified and double still, I couldn’t write it myself, so foreign investor and some people and triple checked. they claimed [365 CEO] Gunnar say that it wasn’t until a few days Smári wrote it. before the deal was signed that Do you think your reporting will The sad thing is these campaigns they managed to secure Hauck & change government policies? seem to work. The government can Aufhauser. In the contract with The result is primarily that now always control how the discussion the government it says none of the people know what happened. We develops. buyers can sell any of the shares haven’t judged anyone. I just made within the next 21 months. After sure I told the story fact by fact in Yes, it seems that the opposition 13 months Hauck & Aufhauser chronological order by the people here is more reactive than anything. sold half of their shares to Ker. And involved. What happens after is for Day one, the Social Democrats and Valgerður Sverrisdóttir, the Minister politicians and the public to decide. Ingibjörg Sólrún said they would of Industry, allowed it. But that was But the whole discussion look into the investigation. Then the not made public. about the banks has been going rumours started that Fréttablaðið Another interesting thing is that on for three years. It’s common was kickstarting the Social Democrat when Samson got the books, was knowledge that people close campaign, and I don’t think I’ve given access to the banks after they to the Independence Party got heard a word from her since about bought Landsbankinn, one of the Landsbankinn and that people this. first things that they noticed was a close to the Progressive Party got 6 to 8 billion krónur loan to the S- Búnaðarbankinn. Group. Obviously given when the government still owned the bank. How can people accept this? So half of Búnaðarbankinn was paid I don’t want to criticize the auditor, for with a loan the government gave but he’s already done two reports Interview by Bart Cameron Column by Þórdís Elva Þorvaldsdóttir Bachmann 9 ADs Grapevine Advertiser Index Shopping Museums & 66 North 03 Galleries Cintamani 07 Icelandic Salt-Fish Museum 05 Rammagerðin 08 The Reykjavík Art Museum 12 Icewear 11 Museums of Akureyri 16 Vík Wool 14 The National Museums 21 Kogga 14 Kling og Bang 26 Illgresi 14 The Reykjavík Húfur sem hlæja 18 Energy Museum 26 The Handknitting The Einar Jónsson Museum 29 Association of Iceland 18 The Laxness Museum 37 10-11 19 The Nordic House 44 Halla Boga 27 Museum of Sorcery and Nexus 31 Ózóma 31 Whitchcraft 50 Tónastöðin 46 Víkingur 53 Transportation Carlsberg 56 Rent-a-bike 29 Hertz 55 Use yo’ head, bitch! Cafes, Bars, Air Iceland 55 Restaurants What if I told you that raping, degrading and beating a twelve year-old sings along with the lines: Man this hoe Café Roma 05 Activities people up wasn’t in any way wrong? What if I told you you can have her, when I’m done I ain’t gon keep her / Man, Café Segafredo 05 Arctic Rafting 08 that not only is it OK to promote sex slavery, violence bitches come and go, every nigga pimpin know… Pizza 67 22 Artfestival in Akureyri 10 and derogatory slang, it’s actually a cool and manly thing Humarhúsið 27 Reykjavík Excursion 13 to do? If I told you that women are nothing but mindless Snoop Dogg, who will perform in Iceland in three weeks, Tveir fiskar 28 Gentle Giants 15 sex objects, pieces of meat who are only after men for collaborated with rapper Xzibit on a song called Losing Iceland Excursions 22 their money, would you believe me? More importantly, Your Mind, released in 2002. There, the duo described Ráðhúskaffi 29 would you elevate me to superstardom and make me subjecting women to violent and crude sexual acts, even Bakhúsið 29 Blue Lagoon 34 filthy stinking rich for airing these opinions to your suggesting rape. Gaukur á Stöng 29 Spa City 45 children? Iðno 29 Sea Tours 48 Back for more, watch me score (with what?) Bar 11 31 Kerlingafjöll 48 50 cent and Snoop Dogg are examples of hip hop/rap With any whore that wanna explore (with what?) Hressó 31 Elding 49 artists (depending on who you ask) whose lyrics often The ups the downs, the ins the outs (then what?) Rauðará Steakhouse 32 The Glacier Exhibition 51 show little or no regard for human life, and in particular, Kicking that ass, dick in your mouth (so what?) Brynja 32 an extremely chauvinistic outlook on women. Not only Piss on ya chest, and put it on tape (now what?) Traffic 33 does the modern day consumer culture condone this Have all these bitches calling it rape (and what?) Useful Information behavior, we actually reward 50 cent and Snoop Dogg Slicker than that, so pump your brakes (and what?) Dominos 33, 36 Tourist Information Centre 04 by buying their material in millions of copies. Both of Indite it, fight it, settle the case (w-w-w-w-what?) The First Vegetarian 34 these artists are popular in Iceland. In fact, they’re so Shalimar 36 Traffic Council 17 popular here, it actually pays off to import them and sell Snoop Dogg may have found himself deeply regretting Stúdentakjallarin 40 expensive tickets to their concerts in our biggest musical his part in the recording of this song, as he was recently Pravda 41 If you would like to be on this list venues. Their message to the people? Here, 50 cent accused of gang-raping a woman along with his Dillon 42 and advertise in The Reykjavík speaks for himself in his hit song P.I.M.P. : entourage. It is safe to say that the lyrics above could’ve Halastjarna 50 Grapevine, please contact our Ad proven seriously harmful to him in a court of law. If Bitch choose with me, I’ll have you stripping in the street nothing else, he became a man of his word, as he did Langbest Pizza 51 Department, [email protected] or Put my other hoes down, you get your ass beat “settle the case” by paying his accuser off. call 540-3605. Now Nik my bottom bitch, she always come up with my bread The people responsible for importing Snoop Dogg in Accommodation The last nigga she was with put stitches in her head… Iceland have kept quiet about the rape case against him, Youth Hostel Nýibær 54 …Hoe make a pimp rich, I ain’t paying bitch although the settlement only took place five months ago Youth Hostel 54 Catch a date, suck a dick, shiiit, TRICK and is still fresh news. The Icelandic media hasn’t made Grundarfjörður 54 an effort to raise the public awareness to it either. If we, Youth Hostel Hamar 54 Now, let’s look at this from another angle. What if I as consumers, had been aware of this case, or looked Youth Hostel Vík 54 told you that black people deserved nothing better than critically at Snoop Dogg’s lyrical message, would the Hótel Búðir 54 to sell their bodies on street corners, and to have their online tickets to his show have sold out in merely two Hótel Framnes 54 teeth kicked in if they refused? What if I told you that it hours, as was the case? To put an even more disturbing Hótel Dyrhólaey 54 was not only fair to humiliate black people, you should note to the whole thing – there’s not even an age limit to disregard them as intellectual beings? I’ll tell you what Snoop Dogg’s concert. Time to start thinking, folks. Hótel Bjarkarlundur 54 would happen. I’d most likely get publicly attacked, Hótel Hellnar 54 ostracized, brought to court and sentenced for defaming Hótel Breiðafjörður 54 black people. All of which I’d fully deserve. However, Hótel Reykjahlíð 54 these exact statements are being made about women in By Þórdis Elva Þorvaldsdóttir Bachmann Guesthouse Árból 54 today’s popular music, seemingly without consumers as Guesthouse b/Engjavegur 54 much as blinking an eye. This brings me to a poignant Guesthouse Hvammur 54 question: Do women deserve less protection under the Gesthouse Salka 54 law than minority groups? Gesthouse Lónsá 54

Whether we like it or not, the message of popular Gesthouse Urðarstekk 54 music is getting to kids before they have the maturity to Guesthouse Óðinn 54 understand that someone like 50 cent is making harmful Cottage Þóroddsstaðir 54 generalizations about women. However, attacking him Heiðarbær 54 for the content of his material is not going to solve the B.B. 44 problem. As consumers, we’re responsible for the success Vogahraun 54 of people like 50 cent. We made him the megastar he is. Kaldbakskot 54 Therefore, we’re every bit as guilty as he is for each time Kerlingafjöll 54 10 News in brief Earthquake in Kleifarvatn A number of tremors were recorded in and around the lake Kleifarvatn in Reykjanes at 8:15 last Wednesday. According to RÚV, the largest tremor measured 3.3 to 3.4 on the Richter scale and was felt as far away as Reykjavík. Kleifarvatn is located near Krísuvík, which is one of the most actively volcanic regions in the country.

Conservative Women Pressure for Gender Equality The National Association of Women of the Independence Party have encouraged the party to focus on equalizing the number of men and women running for office in the upcoming municipal elections. According to Morgunblaðið, this measure was put forth at a national convention of the group last month.

Whaling Ban Still in Effect Supporters of lifting the international ban on commercial whaling received a crushing blow this week. According to Morgunblaðið, pro-whalers were unable to get a majority vote on lifting the ban at a meeting of the Union Helps International Whaling Committee in Seoul, South Korea. A ban on commercial whaling has been in effect since 1986. Only Norway, Japan and Foreign Workers Iceland still engage in whaling for scientific purposes. Twelve workers from Poland have gone to the Icelandic come as a surprise to him, adding that he felt the unions British Protestor Released Confederation of Labour Unions (ASÍ) because they were making a big deal about very little and that Geymi British activist Paul Gill was released from police custody last weekend. feel that their work and living conditions are intolerable. ehf was acting in full compliance with the law. ASÍ is According to RÚV, he was ordered not to leave the country before 1 July. According to Vísir, the workers signed an agreement expected to launch a case against Geymi ehf soon. Police said they hope to complete their investigation within the next few days with the company Geymi ehf which entitled them to In related news, the union Efling told RÚV that and take Mr. Gill before court before the travel ban expires. He is charged work 250 hours per month for 120,000 ISK - the salary they’ve been looking into violations of the rights of with destruction of property for splashing people with green skyr at a meeting one would get for working 160 hours in a month. ASÍ foreign workers. Carlos Manuel da Cunha, a plumber at Hotel Nordica last week, along with two Icelandic activists who were also director Halldór Grönvöld said that the workers went from Portugal, said that he had been swindled by the arrested but immediately released. Gill’s custody sparked further protest as to him for help and he agreed that the accommodations Icelandic employment agency Intjob. The agency being inconsistent with the way the Icelandic protestors were treated. provided to the workers by the company were unfit, advertised in a newspaper in Portugal, where da Cunha adding, “We saw right away that their conditions were responded to the ad and came to Iceland. Upon his intolerable and now we will be handling their complaint.” arrival, he was lodged in a room with several others Justice Minister and Police Make Deal The workers were also not receiving vacation pay, sick and made to work 50 to 62 hours a week for 960 ISK Minister of Justice Björn Bjarnason and chief of police Böðvar Bragason leave, overtime, and other stipulations that employers an hour, whether day or evening, workday or weekend, signed an agreement outlining the goals for the Reykjavík police for this year. in Iceland are legally bound to follow. Eiríkur Elís without overtime. Da Cunha says he is now on his way According to Vísir, Minister Bjarnason welcomed the agreement, calling it Þorláksson, a lawyer for Geymi ehf, said that the charges back to Portugal. the first of its kind in Iceland, wherein the ministry and the police would focus on the same goals. Among these are increasing the size of the police force.

Fight for Gender Equality Continues 19 June was the 90th anniversary of Icelandic women over 40 receiving the right to vote. While many advances have been made in the fight for gender equality, Katrín Anna Guðmundsdóttir told Vísir, there is still an obvious wage gap and the closing of it needs to be of top importance, saying in part, “We need to work on it and this is why this matter needs to be given priority in order to make anything happen.” In other news, Minister of Social Affairs Árni Magnússon sent a letter to every company in Iceland with more than 25 employees to review their wages and be aware of any difference in pay between men and women performing the same job.

PM Proud of Icelanders Prime Minister Halldór Ásgrímsson sounded off the positive at yesterday’s Independence Day celebrations. In a speech made at the opening ceremonies, Ásgrímsson said the Icelandic people “should hold their heads high without arrogance . . . I am proud of the Icelandic people.” Among the many accomplishments he listed, he put special emphasis on the market, saying that the liberalization of the economy has changed Icelandic society from one of inflation and unemployment to the sound and healthy economy it is today. He also said that the recent review of the constitution is necessary, in order to keep it up to date, and hopes for the review to begin this fall.

Minister Congratulates East Húnavatn Minister of Industry Valgerður Sverrisdóttir welcomed the decision made by the people of East Húnavatn to request an aluminium smelter be built in their area, but said it wouldn’t be possible to build a smelter in every bay. The minister told RÚV as well that she doesn’t rule out East Húnavatn’s participation in negotiations with Alcoa, the Ministry of Industry, and the municipalities of the north.

Swedes Look Into Copying Icelandic Maternity Leave Swedish government researcher Karl-Petter Thorwaldsson wrote a report recently suggesting that maternity leave be increased by twelve months to a total of fifteen months. According to Morgunblaðið, Thorwaldsson suggested an Icelandic model for dividing up the maternity leave between both parents: five months for the mother, five for the father, and the remaining five divided between the two however they see fit. The Icelandic law is actually for eighteen months, divided into six-month shares between the parents.

By Paul F Nikolov

12 Paul F Nikolov gives us Grapevine’s Government Guide

Leftist-Green Party: Opposed So Where Do They Stand On... “We’re very skeptical that it serves our interests. There are those among us who are categorically against Who They Are: Whaling, For Scientific and whaling for any purpose, who feel it is wrong under all circumstances. I doubt that it’s possible to sell whale The Leftist-Green Party Commercial Purposes? meat, and there are other important factors to consider, such as its effect (Vinstrihreyfingin-Grænt Framboð) on tourism. Unless you can prove it Guiding principles: Far-left, pro-environmental, anti-NATO, feminist. serves the public good, I have very Party Chairman: Steingrímur J. Sigfússon grave doubts about whaling.” Number of seats: 5 MP Ögmundur Jónasson Registered members: about 1,400 Alliance Party: Uncertain Ministers: none The party put forth a bill in Strange but true: Recently won the right to use the letter “V” instead of “U” parliament, approved last March, as their symbol from the Ministry of Justice. calling for a study on the effects of Website: www.vg.is whaling on tourism. E-mail: [email protected] Progressive Party: Supporting Phone: 552-8872 MP Siv Friðleifsdóttir has supported Address: Pósthólf 175, 121 Reykjavík the hunting of whales for scientific purposes, and has dismissed arguments against it by saying that not enough whales are being hunted to endanger their numbers. Liberal Party: Supporting “The The Alliance Party (Samfylkingin) Liberal Party is positive towards both Guiding principles: Left-centrist, social-democratic. commercial and scientific whaling, Party Chairman: Ingibjörg Sólrún Gísladóttir but it is very important that the Number of seats: 20 whaling will be based on scientific Registered members: about 20,000 measures of how big the whaling Ministers: none stocks are and how their position is Strange but true: within the ecological system.” Party They all seem to take their vacations simultaneously. In Spain. Chairman Guðjón Kristjánsson Website: www.samfylking.is Independence Party: E-mail: [email protected] Supporting Minister of Fisheries Phone: 551-1660 nd Árni M. Mathiesen is ardently Address: Hallveigarstígur 1 (2 Floor), Box 160, 101 Reykjavík in favour of whaling for scientific purposes, specifically to study the diet of minke whales and whether or not they’re depleting fish stocks. When asked if the return of herring The Progressive Party to east Iceland waters after a 40 year absence took credence away from the (Framsóknarflokkurinn) argument that whales deplete fish Guiding principles: Right-centrist; believes in fewer economic and stocks, Mathiesen replied, “I don’t environmental regulations while strengthening the social system. see a connection between the two.” Party Chairman: Halldór Ásgrímsson Number of seats: 12 Registered members: about 10,000 Ministers: Prime Minister Halldór Ásgrímsson, Minister of Social Affairs Árni Magnússon, Minister of Agriculture Guðni Ágústsson, Minister of Health Jón Kristjánsson, Minister of Industry Valgerður Sverrisdóttir Strange but true: Prime Minister Halldór Ásgrímsson has once again found himself in the centre of controversy, this time involving his role in the sale of the government’s share of the bank Búnaðarbanki to a group of investors of which the PM’s family owns 34%. Website: www.framsokn.is E-mail: [email protected] Phone: 540-4300 Dieter Roth Address: Hverfisgata 33 (2nd Floor), 101 Reykjavík The Liberal Party (Frjálslyndir) Reykjavík 14 May - 21 August 2005 Guiding principles: Right wing,wing, prprettyetty mmuchuch the same as the Independence Party, with more emphasis on the rights of fishermen. Party Chairman: Guðjón Kristjánsson Number of seats: 3 Registered members: about 2,000 Ministers: none Strange but true: Despite losing an MP to the Independence Party, have still managed to be more popular than the Progressive Party. Website: www.frjalslyndir.is E-mail: [email protected] Phone: 552-2600 Address: Aðalstræti 9, 101 Reykjavík

The Independence Party (Sjálfstæðisflokkurinn) Guiding principles: Right wing, believes in further privatization in all areas of society. Party Chairman: Davíð Oddsson Number of seats: 23 Registered members: about 34,000 Ministers: Minister of Fisheries Árni M. Mathiesen, Minister of Justice Björn Bjarnason, Minister of Foreign Affairs Davíð Oddsson, Minister of the Economy Geir H. Haarde, President of Parliament Solveig Pétursdóttir, Minister of the Environment Sigríður A. Þórðardóttir, Minister of Communications Sturla Böðvarsson, Minister of Education Þórgerður Katrín Train Gunnarsdóttir Strange but true: The National Association of Women of the Independence Party have encouraged the party to equalize the number of men and women running for office in the upcoming municipal elections. Website: www.xd.is E-mail: [email protected] Phone: 515-1700 Address: Háaleitisbraut 1, 105 Reykjavík

Paul F Nikolov interviews Jello Biafra This past June 17th wasn’t just Iceland’s Independence Day – it was also Jello Biafra’s birthday. Jello Biafra formed the political punk rock band The Dead Kennedys in 1978 and created his own record label, Alternative Tentacles, in 1979. The Dead Kennedys took on Reagan’s America with albums such as Fresh Fruit for Rotting Vegetables, In God We Trust, Inc., Plastic Surgery Disasters and others. As a result of the unabashed criticism of the status quo, Biafra often found himself under attack from groups such as the Parental Music Resource Center, which was led by Tipper Gore. The album Frankenchrist would get Biafra arrested in 1986 because of its inclusion of a poster by award-winning artist HR Geiger called “Penis Landscape.” Charged with “distribution of harmful matter to minors,” Biafra fought the charge in court and won, but their next album, Bedtime for Democracy, would end up being the Dead Kennedy’s last. After the Becoming the Media band’s demise, Biafra began a series of spoken word albums there was all kinds of cheating that Well that pretty much answers the next went on at this election, just like last question - with No More Cocoons in election, a lot of the same tactics that 1987 and has been releasing were used in the old days of Martin And the same thing pretty much spoken word albums and Luther King to try to keep African- happened in Ohio. All kinds of Americans from voting in the South, crimes were going on but Kerry, very touring with his material they were doing all that again, but quickly, the next day, conceded the ever since, speaking to people they even did the same things in election to Bush when he should’ve on how they can create lasting Ohio and Wisconsin. been in the streets of Ohio getting In Ohio in particular, all kinds of people to surround the capital and effective change for the stories are coming out about people building and refuse to leave until better. not being allowed to vote because the votes were properly counted. they were black, and deliberately That’s the sort of thing they did in Biafra came to Iceland in 2000 and having a voting machine shortage Kyrgyzstan, they did in the Ukraine. gave a spoken-word performance at in black neighbourhoods, where That should have happened here, Gaukur á Stöng, and has a sizeable people who probably couldn’t afford too. But Kerry decided, “No, I’m following here, both for his work to take the whole day off were not going to bother, I didn’t really with the Dead Kennedys and for his kept to wait in the rain for four, want to win anyway. It’s not what spoken-word pieces. The Grapevine six even eight hours to vote. So a the corporations who own me had spoke with Jello Biafra from his lot of them had to go home or go in mind.” home in San Francisco where he back to work or risk being fired. continues to run the Alternative And they discovered there were half There’s been a lot of talk about the Tentacles record label. as many machines as there were country being divided, that the country in the last election in these areas, hasn’t been this divided since the civil Do you find you get a different but all these other machines were rights movement. Do you think the reception as a public speaker than you still sitting in storage that they country is splitting apart? do as a musician? didn’t even use. And another tactic they used both in Florida and in Well, there’s a very big effort to Of course, it’s a different setting. Ohio – this is what allowed Bush divide the country, yes, that’s coming With music people want to drink, to steal the earlier election – was from corporations, and the right and get wild and rock, and with they put a lot of black people off wing that has control over most of spoken word, people know what’s the voter rolls ahead of time by the mass media outlets. But what a going on, they show up more to computer. They would identify the lot of people in Europe don’t know, listen, find out what’s going on, and neighbourhoods, or where the poor is that we do not have a free press in get some brain food. people were, and then start crossing America. Not even close. It is not people off the voter lists, saying free in the sense that most of the big In 2004, we saw this “Rock for they were convicted of crimes and TV networks, and the newspapers, Change” campaign going on to try to couldn’t vote. And in some cases the and the radio stations, are all owned get people to vote Bush out of office; lots crimes listed in the database were by global corporations run by very of money was spent, a lot of big names in the future, you know, “Oh, you conservative people who have a signed on, but it didn’t seem to have committed a felony three years from financial interest in aiming the news that much of an impact. How would now. You can’t vote.” reports a certain way. It’s propaganda you explain that? If Al Gore had protested this just like the Soviet Union or in 2000, he would probably be the Nazis, but it’s more cleverly It had a lot of impact actually. There president today, but he didn’t bother disguised. So a lot of the divisiveness were five million more young people helping the African-Americans. I is propaganda where now they even voting than last time and most of don’t know whether he was allergic say, “We live in a red state or a blue them voted against Bush. It’s just to being photographed with civil state.” I look out my front door, the that the other side was able to bring rights leaders or what, but he sidewalk is not blue, the air is not more voters out through working basically handed the election to blue, at least not yet until they get with fundamentalist churches, and, Bush. It was not Ralph Nader of the rid of all the pollution laws. The also, they had control of the media, Green Party’s fault; it was Gore’s state I come from is Colorado, in news reports, and most importantly, fault. the middle of the country, and the control of the voting machines. So state is not coloured red. This is all a myth. They didn’t start talking about someone who is struggling to pay racist, pro-Bush, pro-war, pro- on. It was meant to be a non-violent red states versus blue states until their bills and raise their children can whale-killing bullshit. You know, movement. about three years ago. And a lot of do. Not everyone can be an activist don’t just tune them out as being other research shows that that’s all a full time or even part time and I stupid or unreachable, sit down and Do you think you’ll ever come back to lot of bullshit, that a majority of the respect that, but one of the things talk to them. And communicate Iceland? people in both kinds of states favour you can do, if you want to, is make rather than argue. a woman having a right to have an a little vow with yourself: “I’m not I found the best argument that’ll I’d like to some time, sure. I enjoyed abortion, they want corporations cooperating with corporations or convince rabid Bush supporters Iceland very much. It’s such a to be forced to obey the law, they their agenda anymore. They can’t that the war is wrong is to point different place from anywhere want to be paid properly, they want have me.” out what a bad military strategy it else I’ve been in the world. You to have health care like Europeans Starting with, they can’t have my is. The more we blow up and kill definitely get the feeling that you’re do, and half of them even think money anymore. No more money people in the Middle East, the more living on an isolated island after �������� that the environment is a greater to chain stores, no more money to we create future Osama bin Ladens, a while and that would drive me consideration than the economy or chain restaurants. And even in the future suicide bombers, you know, crazy but I would definitely love to jobs. That’s the kind of thing you independent stores, start thinking that makes our own country less and come back and explore some more don’t hear. about how many products you less safe. And then they go, “Yeah, of it for sure. And I’d like to say ����������� Another big myth is that it was buy are made by global corporate that is a good point.” [Laughs] But hello to my friends [former bass so-called “moral values” that decided predators and start buying something people are not going to receive that player from Kukl] Gummi and the election. But it turned out the else. I mean, American beer tastes information watching crap on Fox Gulli. Gummi’s now a scientist who ������� moral values myth came from a poll like shit anyway. What are people in News, Sky TV or CNN, which is a showed me a project he was working taken of only seven thousand people Iceland doing drinking Budweiser lot more biased than a lot of people on to use crystals to try and harness �������� where only 22% said moral values for? You know, why buy crap like realize. We have to tell people geothermal energy, which Iceland were the most important thing in the Miller or McDonald’s when you ourselves. has a lot of, which you can use to election. And 20% said the Middle can buy something else? Icelanders I’m not saying going one-on- heat homes and create electricity, ������ East and 19% said terrorism or are in a much better position than one is the most effective way to instead of having to buy electricity something, the Iraq War was one of in the United States as far as not create change, I’m saying it’s one of from corporations. those two, too. Iraq and terrorism having as many corporate chains and them. I don’t know what the most ������ were the two. Where if you added multinational corporations running effective tactic is because it changes Does it work? those two together that would be everything. At least as far as I can with the issue. You know, Judy 39% and a much bigger concern, but tell. That’s something to hang onto. Berry of [environmentalist activist I don’t know, but I’d love to find they made the questions different so Is Iceland in the EU? group] EarthFirst! pointed out that out. I haven’t heard from him in a ���������� they could split it up. sometimes you have to find a way long time. No, it’s not. It’s in the European to stop production. In their case Open 12 - 22 Would you ever tour any of the so- Economic Community. they were fighting to keep the old OK, well, thank you for your time. Is called red states, like Alabama for growth redwoods, you know, the there anything you’d like to add? Laugavegur 11 example? Ah ha. You know, don’t oldest, largest trees in the history see centerfold for location automatically buy the EEC policy of the world from being cut down Oh yeah, hi to Kiddi, the guy who I’ve toured all over the south and or the EU concept that you need and being made into firewood put my show on, too. [Laughs] would do it again. to make your economy more like and picnic tables. They knew that America’s and run your health marches and demonstrations and Jello Biafra plans on touring Do you think it’s realistic to vote third care system for the profit of a boycotting corporations only go so Europe this summer with the classic party these days? few gangsters instead of making far so they had to stop the logging, experimental metal band The people well. The American model so that’s where the sabotage of Melvins, to support their album Never I voted third party in the last is not always the best. We’re a very trucks and lying down in the road Breathe What You Can’t See. For elections and I’ll do it in the next unhappy country where a lot of and things like that came from. A more information on Biafra or the one. As long as people continue people aren’t allowed to see a doctor common assumption is that they Alternative Tentacles label, check out voting for the Republicrats, no real and a lot of people get shot to death were all spiking trees so that a saw www.alternativetentacles.com. change is ever going to happen. You all the time. So, we don’t always do would fly into a logger’s face and know, after the election in 2000, a things best. hurt them but that stopped very early lot of people on the left were saying So don’t give them your money, Nader had cost Gore the election. another great one to boycott is Gore cost Gore the election. If the cigarettes, you know, because all the Republicrats can’t give the people tobacco companies are just hell bent what they want, they’re going to look on sucking up the world, financing elsewhere. horrible right wing politicians like Jesse Helms, people like that. He A person’s political views often change was put there by tobacco companies. as they get older. Has there been any Look at all the other damage he did. change in your outlook over the past ten to twenty years? Yeah, I was a teenager during the Reagan years. Well, definitely when it comes to voting. There was a period of time Yeah, but Helms was around a lot there when I didn’t believe in voting later than that. [Laughs] Plus, if at all. But after talking to Frank you boycott cigarettes your breath Zappa about creating change on a won’t smell so bad during sex. I local level I changed my mind about mean there’s all these benefits, too. that; I mean, there are many political You support the independent music positions on a local level that you can stores, there’s better music in these run for, sometimes even unopposed. stores, probably a lot more Icelandic You can create change on the local music in these stores. And you can level and work your way up. support the local bookstores instead of the chains. The clerk may even Do you see yourself running for office know how to read and care about again? If you did, who would your literature. You support the local competition be? independent market. You might be able to buy Icelandic locally grown When I was nominated by the New and organically grown food instead York Green Party as their candidate of genetically modified Frankenfood for president [in 2000] it took me that doesn’t even say what it is on completely by surprise. the package. And as hard as it is to find But you did run for mayor of San meaningful work that will pay Francisco [in 1979]. the bills, try not to work for them [corporations] either. But Well, that was more of a prank, and if you must work for one of them a pretty effective one, too. [Laughs] remember that the digital age has No, I don’t know if I’ll run for opened up a whole new frontier office again, so I can’t say who my of sabotage on the job. You know, competition would be. a prank a day keeps the dog leash away. What is the most effective action people And another one I always tell can take to change the status quo? people is don’t hate the media, What is the biggest mistake they make? become the media. You know, participating in and supporting the I think the biggest mistake people underground independent zines, make is believing that there’s sharing information on the net, and nothing one person can do. There’s try to make sure it’s true before you nothing they can do, therefore, send it out. But also becoming the why bother? You know, just try to media means going one-on-one with survive, pay the rent and feed your people you know at home, work, family. But there are things even school, family, if they’re spouting 16 Haukur Már Helgason interviews director Dagur Kári

Are you a better director now than when you made Nói Albinói? No, not really. The period between takes is always so long – three, four years-- that you forget everything in between. It’s almost impossible to bring any luggage from your last film to your next. Also because the films are so different … it’s more like debut film no. 2.

You’ve said that Iceland is too small and produces too few films for there to be a specifically “Icelandic cinema”. Is debut no. 2 an eternal national fate, or is it changing? The size of the country makes this a perpetual situation, I think. It will never be possible to make sense of big waves or common tendencies, when you only have four or five films a year. It makes it all arbitrary and dependent on individuals. But you can notice some developments, still. There are these phases. For a while, audio was the main issue, the audio had to get better. Then, lately, there has been an emphasis on making better scripts. And I think we’re doing OK in scripts now.

And now you are the first Icelandic director to make a film with no mountains. Yeah, probably. Hm … Nói ends with a natural catastrophe, but Denmark is such an innocent and toothless country that this is the closest you get: A bascule bridge goes up and down.

It is tempting to see influences from various directors in Dark Horse, even direct citations … I am very much nodding my head to one film, Masculin, féminin from Godard (1966). It’s my favourite film. There’s this spirit floating all over it – of course there are many boring scenes in it, like in all Godard’s films, but also an incredible amount of brilliant scenes … that film is always where I start, when I make a film, it’s a guiding light. I always show it to my cinematographer, even if we then end up doing something very different. But this is the spirit I aim to work in, this sort of benign carelessness. And this time I wanted to finally refer to it explicitly. But then when you watch films from the period, you wonder if something like that can be done today, at all … or if it was just the sixties. Everything is so beautiful, the clothes, the cars … so I’m trying to capture both, our times

H.S. and some element of those times, the innocence and joy of simply telling a story. Cinema has become such an oversexed slut, it’s hard to accomplish this virginal effect. I don’t make commercials or music videos. Getting behind the camera is like sleeping with someone, and in that sense I’ve only had sex twice.

Godard spoke very strongly to his times and even became an epitome of Benign Carelessness those times. How do you perceive the role of cinema and filmmakers today? I’m not especially fond of Godard, even if he made my favourite film. He Dagur Kári is one of a handful of young feature film directors in Iceland (b. 1973), probably works too much with his brain. He was a film critic and he always remained a film critic, only he started criticizing with a camera instead of writing. The the one to have reached most international critical acclaim, for his debut Nói albinói (2002). ultimate goal of a film is to speak to the emotions, directly, surpassing the His second feature, titled Voksne mennesker, in its native Danish (Grown-up people) but brain. Like music, it should be experienced. A good film has many layers, so if you can find criticism or social analysis in Dark Horse in English, tells the love story of a graffiti artist in his mid-twenties and ... a girl. my film … I didn’t put it there consciously, but you’re always in society. And you’re functioning within that society, of course. So this can be one layer. Another layer is humour. To entertain your audience. Fool around.

Religion and Christian symbols were a very apparent layer in Nói, as well as your short films, but they seem absent in Dark Horse. Are you done with religion? The biggest identity crisis of the Western world, or the Christian world, is this doubt as to whether God exists or not. Many things would be easier if that could be conclusively proven or rebuked … but this doubt is interesting, even if I am in no way religious. It’s fun to sneak that dimension into films, but it cannot become too obvious. Must be an undercurrent. It was very definite in Lost Weekend (short film, 1999) and Nói Albínói and I was aware of it, very clearly. Then, I actually tried to find something of the same sort for this one, but it just wasn’t in the cards. Also, because I was writing with someone else. As soon as you mention these things out loud they become too obvious. It has to be as unconscious as possible.

Can you save someone with a film? Naah … you don’t save anything except perhaps a day or a week … a film is part of a cultural chain that can matter to some people or a community. But my premise or ambition is not to save or change or teach people … I do films that I would like to see in the cinema, films that would cheer me up. I’m finishing a script now. It’s always hard to write a script, it’s scary, fills you with anxiety. Text and images obey such separate laws. The image demands less logic than words do … the classic example is, you know: a character knocks, walks in, says good morning. In a film you don’t need all that, the character just stands there and says: good morning. Making a script work is very different from making a film work.

You co-wrote Dark Horse? Yes, with Rune Schjött. We started with nothing in our hands, and the whole process was an experiment, finding out how to work together. Mostly we wrote separately and then sent what we had to each other, and worked on each other’s writing. And this spins off humour, I know that he is going to read what I write, and he’s my friend so I want to amuse him. And he me. The day’s order was to permit a certain degree of carelessness, life, to be open for the unexpected. Rather than see it as a disruption. It’s the biggest challenge of directing a film, perhaps, to know what you want, and see where you are going, but remain capable of accepting gifts.

A decade ago it was a recurrent theme in discussion of Icelandic films that they were under the heavy burden of the written narrative tradition. Is it a problem, is it a gift or is it irrelevant now? Iceland’s literary tradition is not irrelevant or problem-free, no … the advantages are in the blood, maybe. But the disadvantage in Iceland is the language – people take it too seriously, with this awe, I do it myself. There are words that everyone uses in speech that you cannot write in a script because they look silly in print. And this is a challenge, something to work on and fight your through. My last film was in Danish, the next one will be in English … but that’s rather just how it happened than any planned course of events. There is freedom in working outside your mother language, but that doesn’t mean I’ll chicken away from doing films in Icelandic.

Dagur Kári’s film Voksne Mennesker (Dark Horse) is currently showing at Háskolabíó with English subtitles. Gúndi Paul F Nikolov Reports on Sexual Assault Laws

Icelandic design Mired in Tradition

Iceland’s Courts and Sexual Assault Law Gúndi

On June 10, 2005, a man was tried in the West Iceland District Court for sexually abusing a ten-year-old girl. The court heard testimony from the victim, as well as her mother, who said that since the incident, her daughter’s grades have dropped, she has recurring nightmares and has fallen into a state of depression. The man was found guilty of the offence and was sentenced to four months in prison - two of which were probationary - and a fine of 300,000 ISK. To put the sentence in perspective, that same day another man in the south of Iceland was sentenced to six months in jail - only two of which were probationary - and a fine of 250,000 ISK for speeding under the influence.

This example is, unfortunately, one The Grapevine got in touch with have a hard time facing reality. They of many. A visit to the Icelandic Kristinn Halldórsson, the judge who think, so-and-so’s a nice guy, they Supreme Court’s website (http:// passed the four-month sentence start making excuses for him because www.haestirettur.is/control/ for child sexual abuse, to find out it’s unbearable for them to face that index?pid=333) outlines one what his reasoning was behind the he knew what he was doing.” ruling after another wherein those punishment. Halldórsson told us convicted of rape and incest are that he was bound by law not to talk Alliance Party MP Ágúst Ólafur given probation and fines. Even the about the case, but added that, “the Ágústsson, who has made rape law perpetrator of one of the vilest rapes sentence should speak for itself.” reform his primary goal, has another in Icelandic history, who kidnapped, The Grapevine also spoke with idea as to why judges won’t pass tortured and brutally raped his Þórunn Þórarinsdóttir, a counselor sentences - an unwillingness to break victim for 36 hours, was sentenced at rape crisis centre Stígamót, to get precedent. Or, at least when it comes to only three years in prison, and has her impressions. For her part, she to sexual assault. been recently released. One could be believes that a combination of a lack “The courts have pointed out forgiven for getting the impression of understanding of what rape is - as that they are bound by past cases, that Iceland’s sex crime laws aren’t well as basic psychological defence and that this sort of thing has to tough enough, but the Icelandic mechanisms - have a part to play. develop slowly,” Ágústsson told Penal Code actually allows for up to “I’ve asked judges and police why the Grapevine. “But if we look at 16 years in prison - the maximum they give heavier sentences for fraud sentences for drug trafficking, the sentence allowed for any crime - for and robbery [than they do for rape],” sentences are getting longer and instances of rape by force, up to 12 she said, “and they’ve told me that longer - the rulings are sometimes years for raping a child under 14, when a person steals, they’ve been up to ten or eleven years. We have to and up to ten years for raping a child planning the crime for a while and break this vicious circle. If the courts under 16. have it organized how they’re going think, ‘Things have always been like to commit the crime - they don’t this’ then we will never break it. We Why the discrepancy between what feel rape or incest are planned. Some have sent a message to the courts by Laugavegur 70 sentences the law allows for and think these crimes reflect a sickness; providing a maximum sentence for www.hsh.efh.is what sentences the courts mete out? that they didn’t know what they rape, and they shouldn’t ignore the were doing. They also sometimes framework in that sense.” Paul F Nikolov Reports on Sexual Assault Laws 19

Lawmakers and counselors Iceland that bills introduced by the aren’t the only ones frustrated with opposition don’t leave committee. the courts - lawyers as well often It’s a sad culture ruling over this idea find themselves against the wall. As that instead of looking at the bill and prosecutor Herdís Hallmarsdóttir asking, ‘Does the bill make sense?,’ told the Grapevine last year, “In my they reject it outright because it experience, of all the rapes which are came from the opposition.” even reported to the police, I’d say At the time of this writing, MP only about 25% actually make it into Benediktsson was not available for court. Of those, only half end in a comment regarding why the bill, conviction.” backed by 15,000 signatures, had not been sent to the parliamentary floor. While it’s certainly true that there remains a large discrepancy between Both Ágústsson and Þórarinsdóttir what sentences the law allows want to see the law regarding for rape and what sentences are sexual assault strengthened further. actually handed down by the courts, Ágústsson cited Norway as an the law itself is not without room example, wherein there is only one for improvement. Only last year, law for sexual assault, and the courts the Supreme Court tried a man are left to decide the severity of the charged with multiple counts of offence and sentence accordingly, in sexually assaulting a girl from the contrast with the varying sentences time she was five years old until allowed in Icelandic law for different she was twelve, the details of these kinds of sexual assault. Þórarinsdóttir assaults recounted in frank detail had one simple request. by the victim herself, but the case “I’d like to see more convictions,” was thrown out of court: the statute she told us. “The more convictions of limitations had run out for the there are, the more people will begin defendant’s crimes, and he was to take this seriously and realize that acquitted. these people aren’t lying.” Currently, the statute is But even if the statute of anywhere from five to fifteen years, limitations were lifted and the laws depending on the seriousness of the on sexual assault were strengthened, offence, beginning when the victim could the courts be counted on turns 14. This often means that a to follow through? Þórarinsdóttir sexual predator who would normally remains optimistic, believing that be found guilty for numerous abuses change will come about slowly but is acquitted, even if the accused has surely. confessed. “Of course change takes time, As Ágústsson also pointed but we’re educating new lawyers out to the Grapevine, statutes of now who will become judges one limitation don’t exist for comparable day,” she told the Grapevine. “As or even lesser crimes. “There are no we say, we who work here are one statute of limitations for a number generation ahead of the system.” of other crimes, such as murder, Ágústsson, however, sees only kidnapping, terrorism, crimes one sure way to create lasting Gúndi against the state, and some types of change: replace the government. robbery,” Ágústsson told us. “Before “We have to have another 1983, many laws had no statutes of government that makes these limitations at all.” matters a priority,” he said. “This Nor does the statute protect the government has had the opportunity majority of victims of sexual assault. for the past ten years to make this “Close to 40% of those who seek very important step in this matter help at Stígamót are over the age of and hasn’t.” 30, and 25% are older than 40,” said Ágústsson. “Clearly the law isn’t The next parliamentary elections protecting a large number of the are in 2007, and it might take at victims.” least another generation for new judges willing to hand down stricter Ágústsson has made it his personal sentences to replace those currently crusade to eliminate the statute of presiding. In the meantime, most limitations on the sexual assault of members of parliament will continue a child, and introduced a bill last to fight for tougher laws, and month that would put an end to it. organizations such as Stígamót and Ágústsson’s bill was backed by the Blátt Áfram will continue to counsel signatures of some 15,000 Icelanders victims and educate the public at and received the endorsement of large - as well as Iceland’s future Stígamót, the sexual awareness group judges. It also should be noted that mexicans Blátt Áfram, and youth groups from anyone can contact the judges in his/ every party in the country, which, her district (www.heradsdomur.is) have nachos, as Ágústsson understates, “is very as well as the judges of the Supreme Icelanders have unique.” Court itself and encourage them to “In my mind, this is a matter hand down harsher sentences for of common sense to protect the sexual assault. This may prove to bitafiskur children and bring sexual predators be the most readily available option (pieces of dried fish) to justice,” he said. for those who don’t want to wait a The protection of children generation before the courts sentence would seem to be a non-partisan rapists and paedophiles to the issue. And yet when the bill was furthest extent of the law. introduced to the Parliamentary General Committee, committee For further information, visit chairman and Independence Party Stígamót’s website: www.stigamot.is MP Bjarni Benediktsson rejected it. The primary reason he gave was get a free copy of that the bill made no distinction By Paul F Nikolov between “serious” sexual assault of a child and a “minor” one, but that he would be willing to present the bill to the Minister of Justice for “food for dummies” review, a reasoning that Ágústsson fun facts about icelandic food dismissed as “just another way to put this matter to sleep,” adding, “In my mind all these crimes are serious and at the next 10-11 convenience store should not have different rules for statutes of limitations.” Ágústsson even went so far as to say that the bill’s rejection was politically motivated. “I think the bill was rejected because a member of the opposition introduced it,” he told the Grapevine. “It’s a tradition in 20

Iron Maiden Waits’ Hang on St. Christopher, I with this concert. Until a series of could swear that the guitar player strange coincidences started to dawn -The Spandex-Clad Knights of British Metal! from the Bulletboys pointed at me on me, the main one being that and smiled. I felt giddy for months the date of the concert, June 7th afterwards, like a teenage girl 2005, fell on the 13th anniversary clenching a finger-kiss from Paul of the very confirmation that had McCartney in the sixties. kept me from seeing them in my But alas, there was to be no youth – to the day – another one satanic Iron Maiden metal concerts being that by coincidence I had a the following summer for me. stopover in Reykjavík on my way to No matter how I whined and Ísafjörður from a literature festival screamed, my parents wouldn’t in Edinburgh, on the very day of the budge. In all fairness, they had a concert. valid reason for not wanting me to Realizing all of this did, on the be marked with the number of the other hand, not change my incessant beast at that particular time in my lack of money for such ventures. life. The concert was to be held on Sitting on my ass in Edinburgh, Friday, and I was to be confirmed moaning as I recounted all this to a on the following Sunday – which friend, a possible solution dawned incidentally was Pentecostal Sunday. on me. I immediately went out in It was to be the father, the son and search of an internet connection, the holy ghost for me; absolutely no and sent an email to the lords of the beasts, no Eddies and no longhaired Reykjavík Grapevine, pleading my pub-metal rockers. I gritted my case, getting down on my virtual teeth, donned a white frock, and fours, seeing as this was late in bible in hand I took an oath to the game and I realized that such follow Jesus from that point on, no an organized and professional matter what. editorship was bound to have chosen Iron Maiden was the secret someone to cover the concert as soon background music to my life in the as it was announced. And indeed H.S. following years. The first song I they had, but hearing of my case he ever played in a band (consisting of graciously stepped aside. Iron Maiden was formed in 1976, wall with a tommy-gun, waiting to Thirteen years ago I was thirteen me on guitar and a bass player – no A week later I picked up my the brainchild of bass player and pass her judgment upon Eddie who years old and Iron Maiden, my singer and no drums) was Run to ticket at the Grapevine offices. chief songwriter Steve Harris. After approaches from around the corner favourite band, played in Reykjavík the Hills; the first poetry I ever read The town seemed to be filled with three years of grinding metal in with a pretty young girl under each on their Fear of the Dark tour. intentionally was H.P. Lovecraft, English Maiden fans who had flown English pubs, a promotional single, arm. It was the first official gig of the inspired by a quote from a Maiden to Iceland with Bruce Air, flight Running Free, was published and Iron Maiden has a kind of tour, June 5 in Laugardalshöllin, poster: “That is not dead which AU666, the captain of the aircraft reached number 34 on the UK working class approach to heavy though there had been a secret can eternally lie. Yet with strange being none other than Maiden’s charts. This bought them a spot on metal, touring for 11 months on gig in London two days earlier. aeons even death may die.”; my first lead singer, Bruce Dickinson. the BBC’s Top of the Pops, where the Live after Death tour and still It was one of the saddest days of poetry reading was a performance Every other person in Hressó was they were ordered to do as every having time to go to the pub every my childhood. I’d been lobbying, of my own translations of some English and overweight, with long other self-loathing bullshit artist in night. It’s no-bullshit rock’n’roll at screaming, fighting and just plain Maiden lyrics, under the pseudonym hair and wearing a Maiden t-shirt. the trade: namely to shut up and its best, that seems to proclaim that performing every possible teenage Játvarður Höfuð (Icelandic for The artist Derek Riggs has made mime the goddamn song. just because you’re an artist doesn’t antic I could think of on my parents, Edward the head, Eddie the ‘ead, separate artwork for almost every Putting their foot down and mean you have to be a stuck-up trying to convince them to let me to Maiden’s apocalyptic mascot); I Maiden song ever written, and most refusing to bow down to the loser, or a complete fucking sellout. go. A year earlier I had managed to became interested in socialism of those could be seen in downtown bollocks, they became the first band And there’s no working class like the whine my way into a concert called after listening to the anti-capitalist Reykjavík on the day of the gig. since the Who in 1973 to play live British working class, and these were Breaking the Ice, a glam rock multi- anthem Be Quick or Be Dead. I on the show. Since then, they’ve boys bred by coal miners, the British headliner concert in Hafnarfjörður, also kept a keen eye on what was That night I found myself only once mimed on a television answer to Icelandic fishermen. The most notably remembered for being happening in Iron Maiden, although standing in Egilshöll listening to the show, a German live TV special. In New Wave of British Heavy Metal the concert that the glam-masters I didn’t buy any of the albums warm-up act, Nevolution, a decent the middle of the set they started (NWOBHM) corresponding to our of Poison didn’t show up for – the after Fear of the Dark. I remember enough band, which nevertheless to exchange instruments in a mood Guano Rock. They’re not just down- bass player had evidently “broken getting very upset when Bruce had neither the fire, the force, or the of insolent tomfoolery to the utter to-earth, the boys next door – they his finger”, which is glam lingo for left the band for a lame nobody power to make their evil take its course. dismay of the German technicians, literally seem no different from just “we’re just too fucked up right now named Blaze Bailey (what the fuck With no explosions they could who reportedly didn’t find the gag about every English pub-guest who to give a crap.” Bear in mind that kinda name is Blaze??? – had they be nought but a disappointment half as funny as the band did. ever lived. That is to say, until they this is the band that claimed their completely gone bonkers?) compared to the metal-circus that In the year following the release put on the spandex, and turn into sole musical ambition was to bed was to ensue. I was there alone, of Running Free, their self-titled Maiden. every woman in the United States. I first heard the news that Maiden sober, and feeling rather silly debut album was released, reaching And to add insult to injury (or the were finally returning to Iceland actually, a 26-year-old man trying number 4 in the UK. Iron Maiden The first time I ever heard the music other way around) this was before last February, and immediately felt to relive the parts of his childhood was on the map, and producing of Iron Maiden was during recess Icelandair marketed Iceland as the this was my opportunity to make up he missed in the midst of middle- one album a year in the following in my grade school in Ísafjörður. home of the most beautiful sluts in for the aforementioned disaster of aged sweaty people, wearing Maiden six years, including the double live I was ten years old, and for two the world. They simply couldn’t be my youth. But in the last couple of t-shirts, holding their 3-5 year old album, Live after Death, in 1985, days my best friend had spent every bothered to play a gig in a country years I’ve missed quite a lot of gigs children up so that they could see. solidified their godlike status in recess with his headphones glued that merely had 130,000 women. in Iceland I would have loved to The ratio of men to women being metal history. to his ears. At first I was hell-bent And so we were happily stuck with see, mostly due to lack of funds and about 99 to 1. Everything seemed to on ignoring this blatant disregard The Bulletboys, The Quireboys, living either abroad or in Ísafjörður. reek of testicles. The band is more of a phenomenon for the more classical use of recess, Thunder, Slaughter, Artch and And for a while I thought that than a mere band, a modern-day like playing soccer, pinching girls GCD. During their version of Tom ...continued on page 23 this would also become the case mythological entity incorporating an on the ass or rolling on skateboards. army of diehard fans with receding But eventually I gave in and asked hairlines, protruding bellies and what the hell was up. He asked me sweaty armpits – the godfearing to wait a minute, rewinded his tape followers of Maiden, a cult whose while I waited, and then handed Jim Jones is a nine foot murderous me the headphones. I put them on monster named Eddie. and heard a raspy deep theatrical A common misunderstanding voice recite: “Woe to you, oh is that the name Iron Maiden is Earth and Sea, for the Devil sends derived from Margaret Thatcher’s the beast with wrath, because he nickname, which is derived from a knows the time is short... Let him medieval torture device, a chamber who hath understanding reckon of spikes. But Thatcher had not the number of the beast for it is a been given her famous moniker human number, its number is Six when Steve Harris named the hundred and sixty six.” The opening band, getting it from the movie words of the legendary song, Man with the Iron Mask. With Number of the Beast, otherwise Thatcher having gotten the same known as Revelations, chapter VIII, name, before their first single was verse 18, read by the best Vincent released, Iron Maiden played on Price impersonator Maiden could this theme on the covers of two of find (Price himself turned out to their singles: The Sanctuary cover be a bit… uhh… pricy?). In the showing Thatcher ripping an Iron next couple of years this initial Maiden poster of a wall, and Eddie fascination progressed into a full- subsequently opening her up with a fledged teenage crush, complete knife, and the Women in Uniform with albums, posters, a denim-jacket cover showing Margaret Thatcher, covered in Eddie-pictures, spikes H.S. back to life, standing up against a and the like. Some years ago, a man arrived in Iceland on a naval ship. He was here to present the government with a very special package.

Thousands of jubilant Icelanders waited in the harbor to meet him and show their appreciation for the extraordinary gesture.

In the package were two books.

Where does it come from?

Reykjavík City Centre

The Culture House National Gallery of Iceland National Museum of Iceland The Culture House Medieval manuscripts - Eddas and 19th and 20th century Icelandic art. The country’s largest museum of cultural Sagas and other exhibitions cast light The museum owns the most valuable history featuring a permanent exhibition on Iceland’s cultural contributions collection of works by Icelandic artists on Iceland’s extraordinary history from and relations with the world at large. in the country. settlement to present day. National Gallery of Iceland

National Museum of Iceland

www.thjodmenning.is www.listasafn.is www.natmus.is A journey through a nation´s heritage. 22 Continued from page 20 H.S.

But from the opening bars of – this is serious metal, mind you, the being 13 again?” finished, some attempts were made beat the predicted traffic jam. Murders in the Rue Morgue it was testicular scent doesn’t just appear That’s literally what he said, to put forth a proper encore-cheer, as if the entire world was up on that out of nowhere. It’s intentionally 13 again. I nodded and shouted but the consensus in the room Driving back into the city I fiery stage, my eyes blew up and my manufactured. something through the noise. seemed to say that a cheer was not witnessed a car crashing full-speed ears grew wings as I felt year after I was dumbfounded. Poetry, really needed – which is probably into a lamppost. As I slowed down year stripping off my soul, finally In the next hour and a half they leukemia, Djúpa Laugin, Iron due to the facts that a) there was no and drove past, listening to Maiden’s stopping at thirteen. Partly due to played songs from their first four Maiden, 13 again – anyone who can Bruce Dickinson on stage telling Can I Play with Madness on my my morning flight from Edinburgh, albums, Iron Maiden (1980), Killers reintroduce himself in 20 seconds them how exactly to scream and walkman, I saw the bewildered I had hardly slept for almost 36 (1981), Number of the Beast (1982) with such a series of distant concepts b) that the Icelandic audience is driver step out of the car, the blood hours at this point, and in this mix – Dickinson’s first album with is bound to become a great poet. becoming more and more worldly in on his forehead and the demented of drowsiness, determination and Maiden – and Piece of Mind (1983), Up on the stage Bruce Dickinson the ways of concerts, they know how madness in his eyes reminding me of fantastic metal I was completely changing the background for each was jumping around the stage, the golden rule of world tours: Given an Eddie poster. He stumbled into mesmerized. Adding emotional song, replacing one huge picture regularly climbing up on a bridge that one or more of the band-members the arms of the six or seven better- overtones to the mix were the of the ghastly Eddie with another, that reached from one end of the is not hit with a case of acute cerebral than-me citizens who had stopped colourful theatrics onstage, the leaving the actual appearance of stage to the other (at one point it all palsy, or other gig-threatening illnesses, to assist, and I noticed that it was as acrobatics of super-overachiever the monster himself for the 20 caught fire) with a huge British flag, during the short interval, they will if a yoghurt-bomb had gone off in Bruce Dickinson (he’s a pilot, a minute encore. Although these are fire bombs going off... It all seemed come back for an encore. It’s all a part the car – the windows were smudged renowned fencer, a historian, an ex- probably Maiden’s most successful just so fucking surreal. of the plan. So the audience seemed with white excrement of some sort. infantryman in her majesty’s army, a studio albums, many songs from perfectly satisfied with simply not published author, a radio host, and later albums were sorely missed, Bruce worked the crowd like the leaving, and spewing a half-decent Can I Play with Madness ran out, has made several solo albums), bass- most notably Be Quick or Be Dead, seasoned veteran he is, organizing “More!” or “Iron Maiden!” every and when the opening riff of Aces player Steve Harris prodding the Fear of the Dark, Seventh Son of regular sing-alongs for the ten thirty seconds, until the confused High sounded in my ears, I darted head of his instrument towards the the Seventh Son, Can I Play with thousand people in the audience, band came back onstage - At which off again, passing the maximum crowd with one foot on a monitor Madness, and Aces High. getting everyone moving, shaking, point the audience finally came legal speed to the words: “Jump in in a manner so unequivocally his As I stood there stunned during jumping, waving their hands. Every back to life and, yet again, Iceland the cockpit and start up the engines, own that he could practically patent the opening riff of Run to the Hills, two minutes he would shout at screamed for Bruce. remove all the wheelblocks there’s no it, guitarist Janick Gers swinging a song about the colonization of the top of his life-encompassing During the encore I moved time to waste.” his guitar around his neck as if it America, somebody put his hand on lungs, the Dickinson signature line: back to the B-section of the room, was a hula-ring and throwing it my shoulder. I turned around and “Scream for me Iceland!!!” – and admiring my childhood idols from Eiríkur Örn Norðdahl is a poet and high up in the air, while the other didn’t quite recognize the face. “It’s during one of these screamathons afar, feeling the madness flow out novelist from Ísafjörður. two guitarists, Dave Murray and me, Palli, don’t you remember? I had drummer Nicko McBrain played the of me; growing up again, feeling too Adrian Smith, turned their backs leukaemia, I’m writing poetry now. part of a decibel meter, rising slowly silly to be sincerely into the concert together smiling so joyously during We should talk. I’m going to be in up from behind his humongous any longer, while the no-bullshit voiced licks, solos and riffs that one Djúpa Laugin [a dating show on tv] 31-piece drum kit as the shouts got metal continued unabated onstage. couldn’t help but smile along. Yes, next week. I didn’t know you were a louder. When the final notes were played I Iron Maiden has THREE guitarists Maiden fan, doesn’t this feel just like After the regular set was stood in the doorway, heading out to H.S. 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Screaming Viking, Ignoring the Volcano

The flashy new Icelandic economy has fundamental difficulties, overlooked in favour of superficial speculation.

By Bart Cameron with reporting from Paul Nikolov, Jóhannes Kjartansson, Oddur Óskar Kjartansson and Jón Trausti Sigurðarson

brewery burned to the ground after a mishap with a welding torch…But The announcement that Victoria Beckham and her arm- the Bravo business, run by three self-confessed naives, suddenly found candy husband will be flying in to attend a fashion show itself to be one of Russia’s leading brewers.” without a named designer is the clearest sign under the stars In four easy sentences, a few Icelandic businessmen—all Icelandic investors here labelled later in the article as “the Icelandic predators” that your country is officially nouveau riche. On Friday, — quickly look like Mafiosi. June 10, Iceland got just such an announcement, and throngs of upper middle-management locals stormed out to The Grapevine doesn’t look to prove that the Mafiosi aren’t involved in the new economy of Iceland. With nothing but rumours and with an ice skating rink to see and trade notes with the couple. not one specific incident or investor to investigate, we have nothing to refute. Björgólfur Thor has explained that he and his father were able to That their majesties the Beckhams did not turn out was only the first succeed in Russian industry because they were foreign investors who got of the ominous signs of the evening. The complete lack of fashion also into the market early and Russia then, like Iceland today, needed foreign suggested something was wrong. The amateurish production values, currencies. described by a local magazine editor off the record as “like a nightmare While there are no confirmed mafia ties, we can say that the business kiddie talent show” set a certain mood. The many in attendance had environment here is welcoming to foreign investors with shady pasts. gotten dressed up and were being photographed purely at the whimsy The Grapevine did an informal survey of local businessmen and business of Jón Ásgeir Jóhannesson, CEO of the Baugur Group, and they took students. When asked whether they would mind if a businessman who notice of the more powerful people following his whim: the first lady of did illegal business abroad should be allowed to invest in Iceland. 80% of Iceland, a number of fashion designers, who of course weren’t displaying those surveyed felt the investment should be allowed, as long as no other anything in Reykjavík, and a surprisingly large number of wealthy foreign criminal activity were taking place within Iceland’s borders. businessmen. Outside of our survey, we can refer to the recent immigration of a Mr. One friend came back from the show aghast: “You finally knew where Bobby Fischer, who, when being offered citizenship, was commended the money in Iceland was coming from,” he told me, wiping his hands publicly for the more than 3 million dollars he bragged about keeping in together as though under a sink. “They’re washing their money here. This the United Bank of Switzerland. Even when a federal grand jury in the is the new Cayman Islands.” US was indicting Fischer on tax evasion and money laundering, secondary and less political offences than his violation of a UN trade sanction, locals Warnings about mafia ties in Iceland are nothing new and they are were proud that their newest citizen had so much disposable income. almost always exaggerated. For an amusing example, I can turn to the Mafia ties are sexy, and using stereotypes of various nationalities, as behaviour of a local novelist and cultural critic who, upon seeing the The Guardian hints at in its portrayal of Icelanders and Russians in a opening of an Eastern fast food restaurant, The Purple Onion, in close charming nod to England’s colonialist past, does make for compelling relation to a Mercedes Benz, informed me that this was the obvious sign reading, but these topics skirt the scary points to Iceland’s economic that the mafia had moved in, and that there were fleets of Mercedes boom. For one thing, take a look at the reason Icelandic businessmen coming by this restaurant every night. The restaurant is next door to our had to go to Russia in the first place. As commonly discussed and offices, and the owner, a gregarious Persian-American from Birmingham aggressively argued if poorly documented in a popular history book by Alabama, brought the car that he earned starting Dominos franchises in former Dagblaðið newspaper editor Illugi Jökulsson, Ísland í aldanna rás: America with him to Iceland. The novelist had taken typical symbols—a 1976-2000, Iceland’s wealthiest entrepreneur played a role in the largest flashy car and a non-Icelander—and made a reactive assumption. bankruptcy in the nation’s history, that of Hafskip, in 1986. Were it merely But the novelist can be forgiven for having Russians on the brain. a case of fraud or mismanagement, perhaps The Guardian’s Viking raider Since Iceland got their first member in the Forbes 500 wealthiest people analogy would fit, but common assessment today is, as Jökulsson explains, in the world list, they have been waiting for the allegations. “the most humiliating incident for the Icelandic justice system in recent This requires some explanation, but I’ll start with the attack that the years.” country was fearing: a June 16th Guardian article titled “Next-Generation According to Jökulsson, Björgólfur Guðmundsson had established a Viking Invasion” warned that there was “persistent but unsubstantiated respected shipping company and was suddenly undercut when his bank, whispering that the country’s economic miracle has been funded by Útvegsbankinn, responding to rumours in the local press, declared his Russian mafia money rather than growth and liberalization.” The company in default on their loans, forcing the company to immediately Guardian had opened by talking about Baugur, which has been purchasing go bankrupt and have all assets sold at auction. Immediate sale of assets large stakes in British businesses. But in explaining the Russian ties, allowed for a 75% payment of claims against debts, which would suggest it switched focus to Iceland’s wealthiest businessman, Björgólfur Thor Hafskip was not in serious financial trouble. Still, criminal charges were Björgólfsson and his father. pressed against the company, with around 450 landing on the shoulders As The Guardian correctly points out, Björgólfur Thor and his of Mr. Guðmundsson in 1986. Four years later, Guðmundsson would be father had financial difficulties in Iceland, then went to St. Petersburg in cleared of 430 charges and would serve seven months in jail, before setting 1993 and invested in a soft drink venture, then sold that business for a out for Russia. brewery, which would do outstandingly good business. Without naming The banking and investing public were so disappointed in any specific mafia ties or any improprieties, The Guardian points out that Guðmundsson’s conduct, that he was the most respected businessman in other businessmen who went into the brewery business in Russia didn’t the country even before he left. have the connections the Icelanders had: “One [investor] was shot dead The explanation Jökulsson makes for Guðmundsson’s prosecution is in his kitchen from the ledge of a fifth-floor window. Another perished in political differences and political corruption: the Progressive Party had a hail of bullets as he stepped from his Mercedes. And one St Petersburg a Prime Minister, City Prosecutor and Chief of Police who were after 25

Independence Party member Guðmundsson. In addition, according to Jökulsson, relatives of these Progressive Party members were in positions to profit from the sale of Hafskip’s resources. If one believes Mr. Jökulsson’s account of the Hafskip bankruptcy, and the vast majority of the country does, then the lesson to be learned is that one political party should not control parliament, the justice system, a newspaper, and have prominent ties to local business that may corrupt decision-making. At present, the Independence Party, not the Progressive Party, has such power. The lesson learned by many from this scandal seems to have been to give other people a chance to be corrupted by power.

Beyond a political system that can easily lead to abuse of power and cronyism, the Icelandic economy has another fundamental difficulty: a population of consumers and workers unprepared for privatization and economic growth. As the average wage in the country has increased to 2.6 million ISK per year from 1.8 million in only five years, according to Hagstofa, the Icelandic Statistical Bureau, Morgunblaðið has reported that personal debts are skyrocketing. The personal debt in this country increased from 709 billion ISK in 2003 to 879 billion ISK in 2004, up 14%. The average home, according to the same Morgunblaðið report, now has 8 million ISK in debt. While researching for this story, the Grapevine was presented with a few courses by local barflies instructing us how to get a loan. If you need a large loan, the best idea is to get a friend or wealthy family member to deposit all of their money into your bank account just as you go to apply for the loan. The banks, we’ve been told, only look at the last three months of activity and at your bank accounts. If you can’t find someone to put money into your account, we were also told to find short-term or independently contracted work. Three months fishing or working construction can get an abnormally high wage that the bank will assume will be consistent year round. Independent contracting can allow you to give yourself large wages by not paying your taxes until the end of the year. As we were taught these tricks, we consistently asked if they had been used successfully, and we were given full back stories of people who’d gotten large loans, up to 30 million ISK, complete with the sad resolution that the friends were now defaulting on their

Gúndi loans. Continued on page 26 Continued from page 25 Screaming Viking, Ignoring the Volcano

A large number of defaults would have already institutions, show that the companies were sold at occurred, had it not been for an unusual aspect of the suboptimal prices. Furthermore, the banks are causing local economy: to make up for their spending, locals are an overheating of the economy and keeping the interest working that much more. In fact, despite the enormous rates far too high.” He went on to warn of business personal debt, loan officers told us that defaults are at a ethics, claiming: “the law of business today is profit at any record low. price. Business ethics have declined…” University of Iceland economics lecturer Guðmundur Ólafsson points out that despite the strong wages, there As bad as a fashion show featuring the Beckhams is, as are aspects of the local economy that are third world. much fear as Russian beer and soft drinks strike in the Foremost on the list of third world realities in Iceland hearts of English newspapers, as attractive an analogy was the workweek, which he suggested to be 50 hours a for business behaviour as modern Vikings are, those in week, something he claims that Northern Europe and the know about the Icelandic economy seem to point the USA did away with around 1900. He also points out not at blond hair or Russians, but at the ground. The that while Icelanders have strong literacy, there is poor fundamentals of what make a strong economy: banks that local education in industrial matters. are trusted by international investors, high employment The thriving economy in Iceland, then, is based levels, a well-educated and confident workforce, a on a dangerous political structure that has caused a government free from corruption, seem to be in danger. If �������������� significant bankruptcy in the very recent history, and you want an easy analogy, realize that the country is built on a local population that spends without what might entirely on a fault line, sprung from volcanoes. be considered a reasonable fear of debt. Add to this In a worst case scenario discussion with Mr. Ólafsson news that the privatization of the banks was handled from the University of Iceland, he pointed out that “a with extreme impropriety—interestingly, Björgólfur slight setback in the economy could trigger a domino ������������ Guðmundsson is again involved, though this time he effect. If people lose their jobs, they can’t pay off their seems to have been rewarded for his political views loans, the prices of their properties drop and people could as opposed to being jailed. (Read the interview with be paying off interest of 15 million ISK for properties journalist Sigríður Dögg, pages 6 and 8, for more that [when corrected from inflation] will be valued at ������� information.) 13 million.” This exact situation has already occurred in Guðjón Arnar Kristjánsson, the chair of the Liberal Norway and Sweden. In fact, in a news report that did Party, usually known as an ally to the conservative not get nearly as much attention as the Beckhams or the Progressive and Independence Parties, informed the Russians, Norwegian economics professor Thore Johnsen Grapevine that “many aspects of the [privatization] warned the Norwegian business industry that “The banks procedure have been dubious… Huge profits of some [of Iceland] could fall down like a house of cards.” recently privatized companies, especially financial ��������������������������� ���������������������������� ������������������������ �������������� Gúndi ������������������ �� ����������������������

HELGI GUDMUNDSSON WATCHMAKER

Laugavegi 82 - IS 101 Reykjavik Tel (354) 552 2750 / 562 2760 Mobile (354) 862 4706 Email [email protected]

With Batman Begins, expensive film ever produced by goldsmith Svínafellsjökull (Pig Mountain Iceland, Beowulf. Pure Icelandic Design ANOTHER GLACIER Glacier) finally gets its time in Until then, give Svínafellsjökull the spotlight. Fans of the glacier, its props. In a movie that will revive including much of the Grapevine a dying franchise, the small glacier ON THE BIG SCREEN staff, are glad that this oft- provides the eye candy necessary overlooked glacier finally gets its to allow viewers to get over mind- props. numbing Star Wars-inspired Not that Vatnajökull didn’t guidance lectures by Liam Neeson, deserve the attention it got. Fans which are luckily easy to forget in an of the glacier may remember it for otherwise fine film. its starring role in the James Bond And to the credit of the crew pic Die Another Day, in which of Batman Begins, if you visit its lagoon, Jökulsárlón, competed Svínafellsjökull you will see no with Halle Berry in the category of damage or sign of a visit by the crew best thing in the world to look at. whatsoever. Unfortunately, in that case, there was some enhancing: the James Bond Batman Begins now playing crew actually dammed the sea water in theatres. For information on to freeze Jökulsárlón over entirely. Vatnajökull, visit their English- Jökulsárlón also made an language website: www.vatnajokull. appearance in Tomb Raider, next to com. Svínafellsjökull doesn’t have a Angelina Jolie. Not to mention the website yet. many Icelandic films that feature it, and even the earlier James Bond See also Batman Begins review on page film A View to a Kill. Soon, you can 44, and Jökulsárlón visit on page 50. expect to see Vatnajökull in the most by Bart Cameron 28 GUIDE TO THE CITY CENTER This pullout has all the information one might need, so for a safer journey, pull it out and put it in your pocket. CAFÉS 4. Café Paris 7. Svartakaffi BARS & BISTRO ing it was cheaper than buying drinks all the time. Another owner is chess players, challenging each other and anyone that might wander RESTAURANTS FAST FOOD Austurstræti 14 Laugavegur 54 the director of the film 101 Reykjavík, and the bar figures prominently in here for a game, as every table doubles as a chess board. One of the Situated in the heart of the city with a view over Austurvöllur, spacious, Read the newspaper, have a cup of coffee, have a philosophical con- in the film. best places to meet locals for a chat, every night of the week. 1. Café Roma popular and usually full in the afternoon, Café Paris is international like versation with your cigarette and enjoy the speciality of the house, soup 11. Sólon 31. La Primavera 41. Nonnabiti Laugavegur 118 the city it’s named after. in a bread bowl. Aim high, it’s not on the ground floor. Bankastræti 7a Austurstræti 9 Hafnarstræti 11 Is the closest thing you’ll find to a New York deli in town. A lively Named after (in his own opinion, at least), Iceland´s greatest man, 14. Sirkus 20. Bar 11 Everybody laughed when we discovered a contemporary restaurant The owner is a miser who charges additionally for everything, but In the mornings it is quieter and a hangout for philosophers and artists. cross-section of artists, students and office workers enjoy home-baked Sólon is a pretty crowded nightclub on Friday and Saturday nights. It Klapparstígur 30 Laugavegur 11 that has its most notable influences from northern Italian cooking but this is almost certainly the best junk food in the Greater Reykjavík Offers light meals and the opportunity to sit outside when the weather “Welcome to the Jungle/ We got fun and games,” quoth the poet. The rock hangout, be it live music or the riff-heavy jukebox. Many of panini and great coffee all at low prices. 8. Tíu Dropar seems to have more lives than one, however, since in the day it’s a fairly using local Icelandic produce. The unique menu that results from this area. The subs are great, none of that Subway commitment to healthy is nice. With tropical palm trees on the outside and tropical heat on the inside, Iceland’s rock bands are regulars. Bands play and/or poetry is recited Laugavegur 27 artsy coffeehouse and in the evening (weeknights) they have a decent combination features homemade pastas, risotto, gnocchi, polenta and living, and they probably contribute significantly to the ever-increasing welcome to the party that never came to an end and doesn’t seem to be most Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays, A good place to come A very nice “grandma” style café. It’s not that apparent from the street, menu. You can get a three-course fish of the day meal for under 2000 a wide variety of the freshest vegetables, fish, poultry, meat and game. “size” of the nation. They also serve burgers and sandwiches, and have 2. Ráðhúskaffi ending any time soon. Usually full of regulars (many of whom are, were down on Sundays, with a screening of cult films. 5. Mokka being in on the bottom floor, but is actually bigger than it looks. They krónur, or try the delicious fish and meat mixed sticks. The menu, the atmosphere and a comprehensive, exclusively Italian lunchtime offers. City Hall or want to be students of the Icelandic Academy of Arts) mixed with Skólavörðustígur 3a serve traditional treats such as hot chocolate and waffles, but grandma is wine list has made La Primavera a favourite among the locals. They With a view over the city pond, Ráðhúskaffi is situated inside the City musicians and other members of the city’s underground. The upper An Icelandic tradition since 1958, Mokka is the oldest café in Reykjavík also known to come up with new delicacies, such as the Snickers cake, laugh no more!! Hall. Coffee and great cakes as you enjoy the view. Free Internet access 21. Hressingarskálinn (Hressó) and the first one to make coffee with an espresso machine. The walls and you can even try her latest work in progress. 12. Café 22 floor, for whatever reason, looks like the inside of a bus. 42. Pizza King for customers and, in the lobby of City Hall, you’ll find a big 80m2 Laugavegur 22 Austurstræti 20 Hafnarstræti 18 are covered with art for sale and, though seats are usually filled by loyal The celebrated site of one of the more famous coffeehouses in Iceland, model of Iceland. Has recently undergone a major facelift. The top floor is now dedicated 32. Tveir fiskar Yes, you can go here late at night and grab the best piza in town, but customers, every now and then you’ll catch a glimpse of the owners, a this bar/ coffeehouse/ restaurant brings a European flair to the city. 9. Kaffitár to artist Jón Sæmundur, aka Dead, whose Dead label can be seen on 15. Nelly’s Geirsgata 9 it is also home to the best lunch specials, and food so good you’d eat really nice and friendly couple in their seventies who have owned the That is until about 11, when things get to rockin’, and you can see the Bankastræti 8 quite a few people these days. Downstairs is a decent bistro (try the Þingholtsstræti 2 Seafood restaurant, although they also do land-based animals. At it sober, something you can’t say for most food in Reykjavík. Call in 3. Grái Kötturinn café since its inception. The cheapest beer in Reykjavík, with tends to attract more experienced true character of Reykjavík. Expanded and improved, this is the downtown store for one of the Gringo), whereas the middle floor houses a dancefloor. Open until the lunchtime you can have a three-course meal for 2300, which isn’t too advance if you’re going during the day. drinkers as well as expats. Troubadours play on most weekdays, mostly Hverfisgata 16a country’s finest coffee importers. While anything here is good, the wee small hours, and a great place for a late night drink for those who bad, all things considered. The chef has been awarded the Medal of the Grái Kötturinn is across the street from the National Theatre and covers though. In the weekends a younger crowd comes in, and there’s a 6. Bakhúsið speciality coffee drinks are truly remarkable: our favourite, the Azteca, want drink along with a less trendy (and perhaps more cool) crowd. Be 22. Pravda Order of the White Rose by the President of Finland. is quite small and very popular in the early hours of the day. A good large dancefloor on the upper floor. The prices do, however, go up after 43. Purple Onion Laugavegur 55 an espresso drink with lime and tabasco. warned, though, they do charge 500 krónur entrance after 01:30. place to start a day the British way, with eggs and bacon and other midnight on weekends. Austurstræti 22 Hafnarstræti 18 Bakhúsið is a cosy newcomer in 101, a well-hidden café on a quiet Not, sadly, a meeting place for the communist party but somewhere traditional breakfasts on the menu. The lunch menu is also inviting, 33. Hornið Stepping up Reykjavík’s diversity a notch, the Purple Onion serves up backyard just around the corner from Laugavegur. It’s the place to go to quite far from it. This location, which formerly housed Astró, has long but somewhat pricy. 10. Te og Kaffi Hafnarstræti 15 Eastern European and Indian food fast. If you are as uncultured as we for a perfect cup of traditional Italian coffee, complimented by the best 13. Kaffibarinn been home to bleached blonde babes and hnakki’s. It is perhaps the bar Laugavegur 24 16. Vegamót Means “the corner” and the place lives up to its name. This is actually are, just smile and say you’re hungry, and they’ll give you something chocolate cake around. We wouldn’t suggest sharing a piece, though, as Bergstaðastræti 1 in Reykjavík that comes closest to a nightclub-type atmosphere. The downtown location for the other big coffee importer (see Kaffitár Vegamótastígur 4 the oldest Italian restaurant in town, celebrating its 25th year, which nice for under 1000 ISK. fighting for the bites may well cause some tension around the table. We Kaffibarinn is Cool Reykjavík, or at least tries to be. Reykjavík prides Wants to be the inspot to be seen, and succeeds to some degree. Dress for the competition), Te og Kaffi boasts the nation’s best-trained says something about the scene here before then. Excellent quality can also warmly recommend the lunch menu. itself on having more artists per capita than any other capital in the up, flaunt it and enjoy the view as others do the same. It’s a jungle in baristi, as proven in a recent competition. Newly situated on the sunnier 23. Kaffi Kúltur pizza, pasta and salads and yet remaining one of the more affordable world, and the crowd here seems to be trying to prove the point, with there, and the fittest, or at least the fittest looking, come out on top. 44. Bæjarins bestu side of the street, this coffee shop has an ideal angle for people-gazing. ones. Try the calzone. musicians, actors and writers ranging from the hopefuls to the world Kitchen open every day until 22. Specials of the day and weekend Hverfisgata 18 Tryggvagata For those who grow tired of seeing nothing but palefaces about famous. Blur’s Damon Albarn owns a share of the bar, probably figur- brunch. Try the lobster pizza. They claim to have the best hot dogs in town, and for once the product town, Kaffi Kúltur might be a pleasant diversion. During the day its 34. Humarhúsið lives up to the hype. Ask for one with everything, and you’ll get a dog something of a hangout for the actors from the National Theatre, just Amtmannstígur 1 in a bun with ketchup, mustard, remoulade (don’t ask), fried and raw across the street, but in the evening it is populated by both new and 17. Póstbarinn One of the oldest restaurants in the country, this fine dining establish- onion. The standard Icelandic hot dog, only somehow it tastes better. older Icelanders. They have multi-ethnic food and frequent concerts. Pósthússtræti 13 ment is known for its humar (lobster), but also for an impressive cognac Situated by Austurvöllur, Póstbarinn is a bistro prized restaurant, a rare Wednesday night is tango night. Anyone can join in, as a free lesson lounge, and for intimate dining. treat. It is also one of few restaurants in Reykjavík with decent outdoor from 8-9 p.m. precedes the tango night itself, and most of the regulars 45. Hlölli service. Live jazz once a week and check out the reasonably prized fish are happy to dance with beginners and visitors. By Ingólfstorg �� menu they have, only 1490ISK. Try the place. Where Nonni used to work before he went solo, due to creative dif- ������������ �� 35. 3 Frakkar ferences no doubt. They have a somewhat larger selection of subs than 24. Prikið Nonni, and they also have smaller sizes for kids and weight watchers. Culture House Baldursgata 14 �� 18. Rósenberg Bankastræti 12 Brave souls might want to try the Gúmmí-Bátur (rubber boat), which �� Used to be a traditional coffeehouse that has been around longer than This is a restaurant that cannot be ignored. A very small place with (Þjóðmenningarhúsið) ������������ Lækjargata 2 might seem like an oversized relative of the ever-present pulsa. �� �� Perhaps the closest we have to a jazz club, and old instruments line the any but, after a change of clientele, they now cater to a younger crowd. an atmosphere. Here you may enjoy the house specialities of Icelandic �� walls. People go there for conversation and listening to music rather A diner during the day and a nightclub on weekends. You can also traditional dishes prepared in the good, old-fashioned manner, includ- �� than dancing. The place tends to have jazz or blues type music. Regular borrow games there, such as backgammon or chess. ing catfish, shark, and whale steaks. And of course much more. If you’re 46. Eldsmiðjan � players include Outsider legend Mike Pollock and Tom Waits cover lucky, Chef Úlfar Eysteinsson, the owner, may be present regaling the Bragagata 38a band Misery Loves Company. 25. Rex clientele with wild whaling tales. Don’t forget to ask Chef Úlfar for Oven-baked pizzas simply don’t get much better than this. It is slightly �� �� dark Icelandic pumpernickel bread with pure Icelandic butter, and don’t more expensive than other pizzerias, but well worth it. A wide selection �� Austurstræti 9 forget to make a reservation! of toppings, including that sorely missed pizza delight, snails. You can �� ����������� A favourite hangout for Kate Winslet look-alikes. Rex is one of the ������������� 19. Grand Rokk also turn the chef loose and let him decide what goes on it - you’ ll The next street over from Laugavegur, in a massive building that looks like an more posh hangouts, dress code is not insisted upon, but you’ll find Smiðjustígur 6 rarely be disappointed. Take away, order delivery, or eat in at the cosy �� yourself out of place if you’re too casual. Also rumoured to be a haunt 36. Pasta Basta embassy, you can see first-hand the literary tradition that led to those things �� � A place true to the spirit of rock ‘n’ roll and bands that don’t do covers. restaurant upstairs. The paintings are worth a peek as well. �� for generous middle-aged ladies. Klapparstígur 38 �� Better and lesser known Icelandic bands play there, usually no less than movies are based on. You know, they have pieces of paper stuck together and An affordable Italian place, the pasta is in generous portions and the �� three bands a night, four nights a week. Whether they charge admission ���������� salad with grilled chicken is a good light option. The garden is nice, 47. Vitabar writing. They look like little stacks of microscopically thin computer screens... �� � or not is up to the bands, but if they do, all proceeds do go to starving 26. Thorvaldsen with a glass ceiling protecting punters from the wind and the rain at all Bergþórugata 21 �� artists. Grab a beer and rock on! During the day this is a hangout for books, that’s it. The basement of the Culture House which houses ancient �� Austurstræti 8 times of year. Upstairs, the Blue Bar offers a more bar type atmosphere. Actually a bar, but best known for its hamburgers. A burger with fries ���������� Posh as the fifth circle of hell. That said, they make a mean Mojito. DJs �� for 500 is one of the best meal deals in town, but special mention must ����������� on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Arrive before 12 if you want to manuscripts dating as far back as the 13th century, is essential for any visit �� go to the Forget-Me-Not blue cheese and garlic extravaganza. The � avoid the queue. Theme nights during the week, wine and cheese on 37. Tapas Viking beer always feels particularly cold and refreshing here. to Iceland, or for any writer who feels his or her name is more important Wednesdays, Finlandia nights on Fridays and Sunday roast on, well, Vesturgata 3b than the store. (Most of the saga writers were anonymous.) Culture House, �� Sundays. Civilian attire is looked down upon. For those with a bit of money and time on their hands, the evening � is well spent at Tapas, where you can while away the evening having ���������������� �� 48. First Vegetarian (Á næstu grösum) (Þjóðmenningarhúsið), Hverfisgata 15, 101 Reykjavík, Phone: 545-1400. course after course of wonderful miniature dishes served. Recom- Laugavegur 20b �� �� 27. Gaukur á Stöng mended is the garlic-fried lobster and lamb in apricot sauce. If you Used to be called One Woman Restaurant, as there was always the Tryggvagata 22 ������������� �� don’t feel like getting up right away afterwards, there’s also a lounge to same woman working there. Has new owners and a larger staff, but the Iceland’s oldest bar is now in its early twenties. During the day it’s a lounge in, and the paintings there are worth a look. theme is still vegetarian, with one vegan and one wheat-free dish al- �� pool pub and on weekday evenings there are live rock concerts by a mix ways on offer. The only vegetarian restaurant licensed to carry beer and �� of mainstream and underground bands. On weekends there is usually wine. Remains on the right side of the 1000 krónur bill at lunchtime, a lot of action with cover bands playing everything from Britney to the 38. Jómfrúin slips slightly over in the evening. Beatles. Admission is sometimes between 500-1000 weekends, but Lækjargata 4 �� usually its free. In this global age, it can be hard to find good smörrebröd even in Copenhagen. Never fear: out here in the colonies you can still find first 49. Dominos Pizza rate smörrebröd at Jómfrúin. They even import their own eel directly Welcome to Iceland, home of the most profitable Dominos franchises 28. Dillon from Denmark to make one of Scandinavia’s delicacies. in the world. You know the taste. The number, for anywhere in Laugavegur 30 Iceland, is 58-12345. Go local and hit the global chain. Look by the From the I’ve-just-been-to-hell-and-boy-am-I-pissed art on the walls, 39. Shalimar harbour downtown. �� �� to the hard rock on the speakers and steady-flowing whiskey at the bar, Austurstræti 4 Dillon is vying for the aggressive crowd. Now with two floors, though, �� Prides itself on being the northernmost Indian restaurant in the world. 50. Reykjavík Bagel Company �� many nights it also provides decent seating for merely modest partying. ��� How this affects the food, we don’t know as there are no comparisons Laugavegur 81 �� ������������ ���� in town. The daily special, comprised of two dishes on your plate, goes Situated a bit from the immediate centre but close to Hlemmur bus- �� 29. Glaumbar for roughly 1000ISK. But we recommend the Chicken Tikka Masala, stop. Bagels, wraps and coffee that might make you feel better in the ����������� ��������������� Tryggvagata 20 known to be highly addictive. And if the curry gets to you, they have a morning than the more hardcore fast foods further down the street. �� One of the few proper sport bars in Reykjavík, so you can go and watch self-service ice cream cone machine. ����������� whatever game happens to be on the TV screens. The establishment is �� �� basically based around the bar, so you won´t have to go a long way for a 40. Tjarnarbakkinn (Iðnó) ����������������� ������������� drink. Open until five, and has a reputation for late night partying � ���������� �� ������ Vonarstæti 3 �� � Above the Iðnó theatre, so it’s a good place to go before shows, or dur- � ing if you prefer a more quiet atmosphere. If you sit by the window you � � 30. Litli ljóti andarunginn ��� get a nice view of the pond. It’s not a bad place to try one of Iceland’s by Lækjargata 6B culinary specialities, the lamb steak, one of those rare traditional treats � Named after the HC Andersen fairy tale, The Ugly Duckling. The ����������� � that does not come as a shock to the uninitiated. ��� �� Duckling is one of the very best places for a quiet night, when even on ��������������� � � Saturday nights you can hear what your partner is saying. They have recently expanded the place with additional room for seating, and have ��������������� food at lunchtime. ������������ �� ��������� �� �� �

������������ 29

CAFÉS 4. Café Paris 7. Svartakaffi BARS & BISTRO ing it was cheaper than buying drinks all the time. Another owner is chess players, challenging each other and anyone that might wander RESTAURANTS FAST FOOD Austurstræti 14 Laugavegur 54 the director of the film 101 Reykjavík, and the bar figures prominently in here for a game, as every table doubles as a chess board. One of the Situated in the heart of the city with a view over Austurvöllur, spacious, Read the newspaper, have a cup of coffee, have a philosophical con- in the film. best places to meet locals for a chat, every night of the week. 1. Café Roma popular and usually full in the afternoon, Café Paris is international like versation with your cigarette and enjoy the speciality of the house, soup 11. Sólon 31. La Primavera 41. Nonnabiti Laugavegur 118 the city it’s named after. in a bread bowl. Aim high, it’s not on the ground floor. Bankastræti 7a Austurstræti 9 Hafnarstræti 11 Is the closest thing you’ll find to a New York deli in town. A lively Named after (in his own opinion, at least), Iceland´s greatest man, 14. Sirkus 20. Bar 11 Everybody laughed when we discovered a contemporary restaurant The owner is a miser who charges additionally for everything, but In the mornings it is quieter and a hangout for philosophers and artists. cross-section of artists, students and office workers enjoy home-baked Sólon is a pretty crowded nightclub on Friday and Saturday nights. It Klapparstígur 30 Laugavegur 11 that has its most notable influences from northern Italian cooking but this is almost certainly the best junk food in the Greater Reykjavík Offers light meals and the opportunity to sit outside when the weather “Welcome to the Jungle/ We got fun and games,” quoth the poet. The rock hangout, be it live music or the riff-heavy jukebox. Many of panini and great coffee all at low prices. 8. Tíu Dropar seems to have more lives than one, however, since in the day it’s a fairly using local Icelandic produce. The unique menu that results from this area. The subs are great, none of that Subway commitment to healthy is nice. With tropical palm trees on the outside and tropical heat on the inside, Iceland’s rock bands are regulars. Bands play and/or poetry is recited Laugavegur 27 artsy coffeehouse and in the evening (weeknights) they have a decent combination features homemade pastas, risotto, gnocchi, polenta and living, and they probably contribute significantly to the ever-increasing welcome to the party that never came to an end and doesn’t seem to be most Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays, A good place to come A very nice “grandma” style café. It’s not that apparent from the street, menu. You can get a three-course fish of the day meal for under 2000 a wide variety of the freshest vegetables, fish, poultry, meat and game. “size” of the nation. They also serve burgers and sandwiches, and have 2. Ráðhúskaffi ending any time soon. Usually full of regulars (many of whom are, were down on Sundays, with a screening of cult films. 5. Mokka being in on the bottom floor, but is actually bigger than it looks. They krónur, or try the delicious fish and meat mixed sticks. The menu, the atmosphere and a comprehensive, exclusively Italian lunchtime offers. City Hall or want to be students of the Icelandic Academy of Arts) mixed with Skólavörðustígur 3a serve traditional treats such as hot chocolate and waffles, but grandma is wine list has made La Primavera a favourite among the locals. They With a view over the city pond, Ráðhúskaffi is situated inside the City musicians and other members of the city’s underground. The upper An Icelandic tradition since 1958, Mokka is the oldest café in Reykjavík also known to come up with new delicacies, such as the Snickers cake, laugh no more!! Hall. Coffee and great cakes as you enjoy the view. Free Internet access 21. Hressingarskálinn (Hressó) and the first one to make coffee with an espresso machine. The walls and you can even try her latest work in progress. 12. Café 22 floor, for whatever reason, looks like the inside of a bus. 42. Pizza King Gaukur á Stöng, the best for customers and, in the lobby of City Hall, you’ll find a big 80m2 Laugavegur 22 Austurstræti 20 Hafnarstræti 18 are covered with art for sale and, though seats are usually filled by loyal The celebrated site of one of the more famous coffeehouses in Iceland, live music place in model of Iceland. Has recently undergone a major facelift. The top floor is now dedicated 32. Tveir fiskar Yes, you can go here late at night and grab the best piza in town, but customers, every now and then you’ll catch a glimpse of the owners, a this bar/ coffeehouse/ restaurant brings a European flair to the city. 9. Kaffitár to artist Jón Sæmundur, aka Dead, whose Dead label can be seen on 15. Nelly’s Geirsgata 9 it is also home to the best lunch specials, and food so good you’d eat Reykjavík. really nice and friendly couple in their seventies who have owned the That is until about 11, when things get to rockin’, and you can see the Bankastræti 8 quite a few people these days. Downstairs is a decent bistro (try the Þingholtsstræti 2 Seafood restaurant, although they also do land-based animals. At it sober, something you can’t say for most food in Reykjavík. Call in 3. Grái Kötturinn café since its inception. The cheapest beer in Reykjavík, with tends to attract more experienced true character of Reykjavík. Live music on wed, thur, fri Expanded and improved, this is the downtown store for one of the Gringo), whereas the middle floor houses a dancefloor. Open until the lunchtime you can have a three-course meal for 2300, which isn’t too advance if you’re going during the day. drinkers as well as expats. Troubadours play on most weekdays, mostly Hverfisgata 16a country’s finest coffee importers. While anything here is good, the wee small hours, and a great place for a late night drink for those who bad, all things considered. The chef has been awarded the Medal of the and sat. Also discoteque Grái Kötturinn is across the street from the National Theatre and covers though. In the weekends a younger crowd comes in, and there’s a 6. Bakhúsið speciality coffee drinks are truly remarkable: our favourite, the Azteca, want drink along with a less trendy (and perhaps more cool) crowd. Be 22. Pravda Order of the White Rose by the President of Finland. on weekends. is quite small and very popular in the early hours of the day. A good large dancefloor on the upper floor. The prices do, however, go up after 43. Purple Onion Laugavegur 55 an espresso drink with lime and tabasco. warned, though, they do charge 500 krónur entrance after 01:30. place to start a day the British way, with eggs and bacon and other midnight on weekends. Austurstræti 22 Hafnarstræti 18 Bakhúsið is a cosy newcomer in 101, a well-hidden café on a quiet Not, sadly, a meeting place for the communist party but somewhere traditional breakfasts on the menu. The lunch menu is also inviting, 33. Hornið Stepping up Reykjavík’s diversity a notch, the Purple Onion serves up Bar, Grill, Pool, Dart, backyard just around the corner from Laugavegur. It’s the place to go to quite far from it. This location, which formerly housed Astró, has long but somewhat pricy. 10. Te og Kaffi Hafnarstræti 15 Eastern European and Indian food fast. If you are as uncultured as we for a perfect cup of traditional Italian coffee, complimented by the best 13. Kaffibarinn been home to bleached blonde babes and hnakki’s. It is perhaps the bar Laugavegur 24 16. Vegamót Means “the corner” and the place lives up to its name. This is actually are, just smile and say you’re hungry, and they’ll give you something Foosball and more games chocolate cake around. We wouldn’t suggest sharing a piece, though, as Bergstaðastræti 1 in Reykjavík that comes closest to a nightclub-type atmosphere. The downtown location for the other big coffee importer (see Kaffitár Vegamótastígur 4 the oldest Italian restaurant in town, celebrating its 25th year, which nice for under 1000 ISK. fighting for the bites may well cause some tension around the table. We Kaffibarinn is Cool Reykjavík, or at least tries to be. Reykjavík prides Wants to be the inspot to be seen, and succeeds to some degree. Dress Opening hours are: for the competition), Te og Kaffi boasts the nation’s best-trained says something about the scene here before then. Excellent quality can also warmly recommend the lunch menu. itself on having more artists per capita than any other capital in the up, flaunt it and enjoy the view as others do the same. It’s a jungle in baristi, as proven in a recent competition. Newly situated on the sunnier 23. Kaffi Kúltur pizza, pasta and salads and yet remaining one of the more affordable Early and until late. world, and the crowd here seems to be trying to prove the point, with there, and the fittest, or at least the fittest looking, come out on top. 44. Bæjarins bestu side of the street, this coffee shop has an ideal angle for people-gazing. ones. Try the calzone. musicians, actors and writers ranging from the hopefuls to the world Kitchen open every day until 22. Specials of the day and weekend Hverfisgata 18 Tryggvagata For those who grow tired of seeing nothing but palefaces about famous. Blur’s Damon Albarn owns a share of the bar, probably figur- brunch. Try the lobster pizza. They claim to have the best hot dogs in town, and for once the product You can see happenings on town, Kaffi Kúltur might be a pleasant diversion. During the day its 34. Humarhúsið lives up to the hype. Ask for one with everything, and you’ll get a dog something of a hangout for the actors from the National Theatre, just www.gaukurinn.is Amtmannstígur 1 in a bun with ketchup, mustard, remoulade (don’t ask), fried and raw across the street, but in the evening it is populated by both new and 17. Póstbarinn One of the oldest restaurants in the country, this fine dining establish- onion. The standard Icelandic hot dog, only somehow it tastes better. older Icelanders. They have multi-ethnic food and frequent concerts. Pósthússtræti 13 ment is known for its humar (lobster), but also for an impressive cognac Situated by Austurvöllur, Póstbarinn is a bistro prized restaurant, a rare Wednesday night is tango night. Anyone can join in, as a free lesson lounge, and for intimate dining. KortaSafnMaiJuni05 6.6.2005 16:02 Page 11 treat. It is also one of few restaurants in Reykjavík with decent outdoor from 8-9 p.m. precedes the tango night itself, and most of the regulars 45. Hlölli service. Live jazz once a week and check out the reasonably prized fish are happy to dance with beginners and visitors. By Ingólfstorg menu they have, only 1490ISK. Try the place. Where Nonni used to work before he went solo, due to creative dif- 35. 3 Frakkar ferences no doubt. They have a somewhat larger selection of subs than 24. Prikið Nonni, and they also have smaller sizes for kids and weight watchers. Baldursgata 14 18. Rósenberg Bankastræti 12 Brave souls might want to try the Gúmmí-Bátur (rubber boat), which Used to be a traditional coffeehouse that has been around longer than This is a restaurant that cannot be ignored. A very small place with Lækjargata 2 might seem like an oversized relative of the ever-present pulsa. Perhaps the closest we have to a jazz club, and old instruments line the any but, after a change of clientele, they now cater to a younger crowd. an atmosphere. Here you may enjoy the house specialities of Icelandic walls. People go there for conversation and listening to music rather A diner during the day and a nightclub on weekends. You can also traditional dishes prepared in the good, old-fashioned manner, includ- than dancing. The place tends to have jazz or blues type music. Regular borrow games there, such as backgammon or chess. ing catfish, shark, and whale steaks. And of course much more. If you’re 46. Eldsmiðjan players include Outsider legend Mike Pollock and Tom Waits cover lucky, Chef Úlfar Eysteinsson, the owner, may be present regaling the Bragagata 38a band Misery Loves Company. clientele with wild whaling tales. Don’t forget to ask Chef Úlfar for Oven-baked pizzas simply don’t get much better than this. It is slightly 25. Rex dark Icelandic pumpernickel bread with pure Icelandic butter, and don’t more expensive than other pizzerias, but well worth it. A wide selection Austurstræti 9 forget to make a reservation! of toppings, including that sorely missed pizza delight, snails. You can A favourite hangout for Kate Winslet look-alikes. Rex is one of the 19. Grand Rokk also turn the chef loose and let him decide what goes on it - you’ ll more posh hangouts, dress code is not insisted upon, but you’ll find Smiðjustígur 6 rarely be disappointed. Take away, order delivery, or eat in at the cosy yourself out of place if you’re too casual. Also rumoured to be a haunt 36. Pasta Basta A place true to the spirit of rock ‘n’ roll and bands that don’t do covers. restaurant upstairs. The paintings are worth a peek as well. for generous middle-aged ladies. Klapparstígur 38 Better and lesser known Icelandic bands play there, usually no less than An affordable Italian place, the pasta is in generous portions and the three bands a night, four nights a week. Whether they charge admission salad with grilled chicken is a good light option. The garden is nice, 47. Vitabar or not is up to the bands, but if they do, all proceeds do go to starving 26. Thorvaldsen with a glass ceiling protecting punters from the wind and the rain at all Bergþórugata 21 artists. Grab a beer and rock on! During the day this is a hangout for Austurstræti 8 RENT A BIKE times of year. Upstairs, the Blue Bar offers a more bar type atmosphere. Actually a bar, but best known for its hamburgers. A burger with fries Posh as the fifth circle of hell. That said, they make a mean Mojito. DJs for 500 is one of the best meal deals in town, but special mention must on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Arrive before 12 if you want to go to the Forget-Me-Not blue cheese and garlic extravaganza. The Borgarhjól ehf., Hverfisgata 50, 101 Rvk, avoid the queue. Theme nights during the week, wine and cheese on 37. Tapas Viking beer always feels particularly cold and refreshing here. Wednesdays, Finlandia nights on Fridays and Sunday roast on, well, Vesturgata 3b tel.: +354 5515653, fax +354 551 5657 Sundays. Civilian attire is looked down upon. For those with a bit of money and time on their hands, the evening Bikes are also available for rental at the is well spent at Tapas, where you can while away the evening having 48. First Vegetarian (Á næstu grösum) course after course of wonderful miniature dishes served. Recom- Laugavegur 20b campsite and youth hostel in Laugardalur 27. Gaukur á Stöng mended is the garlic-fried lobster and lamb in apricot sauce. If you Used to be called One Woman Restaurant, as there was always the Tryggvagata 22 don’t feel like getting up right away afterwards, there’s also a lounge to same woman working there. Has new owners and a larger staff, but the www.rent-a-bike.tk • [email protected] Iceland’s oldest bar is now in its early twenties. During the day it’s a lounge in, and the paintings there are worth a look. theme is still vegetarian, with one vegan and one wheat-free dish al- pool pub and on weekday evenings there are live rock concerts by a mix ways on offer. The only vegetarian restaurant licensed to carry beer and of mainstream and underground bands. On weekends there is usually wine. Remains on the right side of the 1000 krónur bill at lunchtime, a lot of action with cover bands playing everything from Britney to the 38. Jómfrúin slips slightly over in the evening. Beatles. Admission is sometimes between 500-1000 weekends, but Lækjargata 4 �� usually its free. In this global age, it can be hard to find good smörrebröd even in Copenhagen. Never fear: out here in the colonies you can still find first 49. Dominos Pizza rate smörrebröd at Jómfrúin. They even import their own eel directly Welcome to Iceland, home of the most profitable Dominos franchises 28. Dillon from Denmark to make one of Scandinavia’s delicacies. in the world. You know the taste. The number, for anywhere in Laugavegur 30 Iceland, is 58-12345. Go local and hit the global chain. Look by the From the I’ve-just-been-to-hell-and-boy-am-I-pissed art on the walls, 39. Shalimar harbour downtown. �� �� to the hard rock on the speakers and steady-flowing whiskey at the bar, Austurstræti 4 Dillon is vying for the aggressive crowd. Now with two floors, though, �� Prides itself on being the northernmost Indian restaurant in the world. 50. Reykjavík Bagel Company many nights it also provides decent seating for merely modest partying. How this affects the food, we don’t know as there are no comparisons Laugavegur 81 �� ������������ in town. The daily special, comprised of two dishes on your plate, goes Situated a bit from the immediate centre but close to Hlemmur bus- 29. Glaumbar for roughly 1000ISK. But we recommend the Chicken Tikka Masala, stop. Bagels, wraps and coffee that might make you feel better in the ����������� ������������� Tryggvagata 20 known to be highly addictive. And if the curry gets to you, they have a morning than the more hardcore fast foods further down the street. �� One of the few proper sport bars in Reykjavík, so you can go and watch self-service ice cream cone machine. ����������� whatever game happens to be on the TV screens. The establishment is �� basically based around the bar, so you won´t have to go a long way for a �������������������������� �� 40. Tjarnarbakkinn (Iðnó) � ���������� drink. Open until five, and has a reputation for late night partying Vonarstæti 3 Above the Iðnó theatre, so it’s a good place to go before shows, or dur- ing if you prefer a more quiet atmosphere. If you sit by the window you � 30. Litli ljóti andarunginn get a nice view of the pond. It’s not a bad place to try one of Iceland’s by Lækjargata 6B culinary specialities, the lamb steak, one of those rare traditional treats Named after the HC Andersen fairy tale, The Ugly Duckling. The ����������� that does not come as a shock to the uninitiated. �� Duckling is one of the very best places for a quiet night, when even on ��������������� � Saturday nights you can hear what your partner is saying. They have recently expanded the place with additional room for seating, and have ��������������� food at lunchtime. ������������ �� ��������� �� �� �

������������ THEY DO GIVE EXCHANGE TICKETS Reykjavík has no trams, trains or subways, only buses. These yellow things can take you pretty much anywhere in the Reykjavík area. It’s a slow system and you might have to change buses a couple of times to get where you want to, though usually things run smoothly and on time. The price of a single fare is 220ISK for an adult (60ISK for children under 12). If you are in town for more than a few days, the nine ticket package for 1500ISK would be a better deal. Bus cards valid for two weeks, a month or three months are also available. You have to pay as you step on board and it has to be the exact amount, unless you want to pay more for your ride. The driver cannot give you change. You can ask the driver for a free, time-limited transfer ticket if you need two buses to complete your journey.

The bus system is closed at night. You can catch your first bus between 6:40 and 7:00 in the morn- ing, and last call is around 24:00. The main bus stops in Reykjavík are Hlemmur and Lækjartorg, where you’ll be able to get all the information you need.

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INTERNET CAFÉ beer FREE FOR CUSTOMERS only 450.- 30 Shopping Buy Fish The Grapevine Celebrates Ichthyology

FOREIGNER’S GUIDE TO BUYING FISH

You’ve come to an island in the middle of the Atlantic, home of the best fishing waters in the world, and you’re ready to get to eating the local specialities. The difficulties are that fish has different names locally, and walking into a fish monger doesn’t feel like the easiest thing for a tourist to do. Here the Grapevine attempts to explain and translate the essentials in buying fish.

How to plan: First you need to know what occasion you plan on cooking for. If you’re at a hostel or guesthouse, check to see if you have an oven. All you need for good fish is a saucepan or a barbecue, but it’s best to know what you have when you go to buy.

Haddock (Ýsa): While cod is the most famous fish export and has been the lifeblood of the local economy, locals have always preferred haddock. Both are white fish and taste excellent breaded, and both taste a good deal better fresh than frozen. Easily cooked

H.S. in a saucepan, but not to be grilled. This typically costs 1200 ISK a kilo.

Don’t Make Your Family Mule Those Sausages: Cod (Þorskur): Served in fish sticks and fried patties throughout the world, you don’t know how delicate Stock Up at Yndisauki and flavourful this fish is until you’ve eaten it fresh. Cook in a saucepan First of all, you need to know that there is a quota on To repeat: foreign meats and cheese, Yndisauki. or in the oven. Typically 1200 ISK a imported cheeses and meats in Iceland. In fact, you may kilo. have found this out if you tried to bring a sausage or Okay, if you’ve got that down, we can move on to foie cheese back from your visit abroad. gras, truffle oil, caviar, black rice vinegar, high-quality Salmon (Lax): You know the fish. With this in mind, realize that you can go upstairs at olive oil, and olives. The shelves at this deli are stocked Fresh it’s great. Grilled is good. But Iða, the large bookstore on Lækjargata, and come face to with the dozens of items that expats from throughout for the real speciality, try graflax, face with a refrigerator full of prosciutto, jamón Serrano, Europe and beyond force their relatives to mule to something between smoked and a a range of cheese from France, Italy and Spain, the Iceland during visits. kind of pickled salmon. DO NOT works. COOK THIS! If it is red, it is ready In fact, happy as you may be to discover this, you Iða, Yndisauki Lækjargata 2a. Phone: 511-8090. to eat. Slice it against the grain, serve may become ecstatic to find that you can get all these on bread or, if you can somehow find foreign meats and cheeses thrown onto a home-baked one, a bagel. Price of graflax ranges roll and served to you for 700 ISK. from 1800 ISK up. Salmon steaks by Bart Cameron typically 1000 to 1200 ISK per kilo.

Monkfish (Skötuselur): Hands- on ugliest and tastiest animal in the planet, this fish was featured in this GRAPEVINE’S PURCHASES year’s Bocuse d’Or, the premiere culinary competition in Europe. Only THAT JUSTIFY EXISTENCE the tail of this beast can be eaten, but oh the delights. Like lobster, only much much better, you can cook this on a grill, pan or oven, but it is highly Picture postcards from The Museum of Photography. Beautifully shot black recommended that you marinate and whites of Iceland during less developed times available for 50 ISK a pop. No overnight in a garlic and butter waterfalls, puffins or geysers. Perfect not only for friends back home, but for your mixture to maximize on the flavour. desk or wall. The Museum of Photography, Tryggvagata 15, 101 Reykjavík. Typically 1400 ISK a kilo.

Catfish (Steinbítur): Extremely Wool. For people learning the language, the lady working in the tourist shop popular ocean-going catfish, this is 1 a darker, stronger tasting fish, and is gives you the Icelandic lesson of the day, and the wool you get can be worked into a handy pair of mittens or socks. 296 ISK per 100 metres of wool at Vík good on the grill. Wool, with similar prices at other shops. Available throughout the country. Halibut (Lúða): A light, loose flounder type fish. This is a good summer fish, to be cooked under a 2 broiler. Typically 1200 ISK a kilo. Luxus Dried Banana Slices. 129 ISK for 250 grams at, you guessed it, 10-11. True, when dried you don’t get vitamins from fruit, but you do get roughage. Oddities: Shark, Salmon Roe and Skate fall into this category. All might be Mmm. Roughage. And the package, if not the product itself, is from sunny worth trying, but few people make meals of any of these items. Kópavogur, home of the largest shopping mall in the country. Other advice: the most-recommended fish monger in the 101 area is Fiskbúðin Vegamót. Otherwise, Hagkaup gets praise, as does Sægreifinn and 3 Old School University Book Bag. Good quality canvas and handsome 70s the booths at Kolaportið, the flea market open on weekends. styling come together in the Háskóli Íslands book bag, great for use as hand luggage or shopping. Available at the University Book Store for 500 ISK, with Fresh fish lasts up to two days before preparation, assuming you have a good a Reykjavík City Library version for the same price available... at the Reykjavík refrigerator. If going to a cookout, bring a cooler. City Library. Finally, Icelanders are famous for being extraordinarily picky about fish: if 4 you can get one to help you choose, you’ll be treated very well. Fiskbúðin Vegamót, Nesvegur 100, 170 Seltjarnarnes, Phone: 562-1070. Sægreifinn, Verbúð 8, Geirsgata, 101 Reykjavík Hagkaup, Kringlan, 103 Reykjavík, Phone: 568-9300. by Bart Cameron H.S.

The Road to Chic Starts Somewhere:

Jói & Félagar SIN CITY is ™ and © Frank Miller, Inc

In my quest to find the secret behind the inherent chic of Icelandic women, I recently visited Jói & Félagar hair studio. I rarely have a monogamous relationship with a hair stylist, and needed to try someplace new. Jói & Félagar has been in business for 16 years and did all of the hair for both Icelandic Pop Idol competitions, so I figured I was in good hands. Turns out they were great hands. As someone who has experienced the sinister consequences of saying “do whatever you feel like” in the past, I must admit I was a bit nervous when Nína Kristjánsdóttir, my hair stylist, announced: “I normally do punk style.” She talked me through what she had in mind and told me that I could just tell her if she was cutting too much. The result was an “Across the Street”, my first ever haircut with a name. Nína tells me that the average Icelandic woman spends about 10,000 ISK per month on her hair (that’s before you count the cost of styling products). “Strípur” (an Icelandic term which seems to describe any sort of highlight or low light colouring treatment) are perpetually popular, but the current thing is to keep much more natural colour and maybe just add some tints. Blondes are now going a bit darker too and the haircuts in general are much shorter. You heard it here first, folks. Jói & Félagar has clients of all ages, although its atmosphere seems to be very young and trendy (aren’t most hair salons, though?) I got a fantastic scalp massage from Fanney, who washed my hair, which is always the best part of the whole haircut experience. The cuts here take some inspiration from places abroad, mostly Toni & Guy or Vidal Sassoon, but Nína says the added “Icelandic twist” means they are more wearable, less edgy, and with more layers. So was the “Across the Street” enough to make me look as hip as an Icelander? Probably at least for today, until that scary moment after I have washed it and need to take full responsibility for styling the hair myself. Fortunately, Nína also offers re-shaping of the bangs after two or three weeks, to keep the style current. In the meantime, I think it’s probably time to go clothes shopping.

Jói & Félagar, Skólavörðustígur 8, 101 Reykjavík, Phone: 552-3425 Haircuts for women start at 4000 ISK The entrance is off Bergstaðastræti by the parking lot.

by Eliza Reid 32 $ Under ISK 1000

Restaurants DINING, $ $ EATING Between ISK 1000 and ISK 2500 $ $ $ & GRUBBING Between ISK 2500 and ISK 4000 Haukur Már Helgasson on Reykjavík Dining $ $ $ $ Over ISK 4000 H.S.

SALT, H.S. HOTEL 1919 MARU $ $ $ $

Described as “chic, upscale and casual” on its website, the hotel $ $ $

restaurant, Salt, actually is. Each table is decorated with a H.S. small porcelain bowl with pink, white and black sea salts, each It seems to be common practice when one restaurant files for bankruptcy imported from its own continent. The salts are, I was told, to start another one in its place. In this tradition, Maru is a sushi place by expensive enough for the chef to be constantly on the look-out Aðalstræti, where there used to be a sushi place. that customers don’t spoil them. HRÓI HÖTTUR Sushi consisting of various combinations of raw material – that is, As the chef gathered various courses into an extensive meal raw material – mostly raw fish, boiled rice, if the fish is fresh one can stay for my Italian companion and me, he surprised and pleased and leave happy. At Maru, the fish is fresh. Actually, the ten-piece plate us both … but even if this may seem like a perverse complaint $ $ menu item “Maru-sushi” was quite delicious, and according to my Italian to make, too much so. A bit less would have been a bit more, companion exceeded any sushi she had ever had in Italy. as the rainbow of different flavours at some point turned into This cheesy fast-food pizzeria offers a no- The environment is enjoyable … grey seems to be the new white, and this a brownish mess … perhaps because, strangely, given the nonsense buffet, soup, steak, pizza, vegetables, particular greyishly coloured space is elegant, yet cozy, in a Scandinavian sort restaurant’s upscale cooking, the same wine was served with all pasta courses … the whole lot – English-Italian of Japanese manner … add Scandinavian love of soothing South American parts of the meal, up to a wonderfully innovative main course of cuisine the Icelandic way. The name of the place jazz and you have a strangely harmonious atmosphere. Coca-Cola-glossed quail. is Icelandic for Robin Hood, and in line with its Grey being the new white, hot chocolate fudge is the new vanilla ice Each element of the meal was more or less delicious – the ideologue’s vision, the place offers endless refills cream. We had ours downstairs, in the bar, where they make decent cocktails pumpkin soup, lobster, wild mushroom risotto and quail of soda drinks. You will eat and drink your fill and and where some nice old fellows tried to sleep at the end of a long national being my personal favorites. But add snails, foie gras and even if afterwards you suspect that you might have celebration day but were politely shown out. The chocolate fudge was, as so halibut and you feel as though you were hijacked by an upscale consumed a bit too much monosodium glutamate, often, the part of the meal that came closest to sublimity. culinary conspiracy. The place being merely a week old, this if you entered primarily hungry you certainly leave is in line with the somewhat insecure staff – each member primarily content. A two-for-one special with an Maru, Aðalstræti 12, 101 Reykjavík, Phone: 511-4440. being charming and industrious, as a unit they seemed to be International Student ID improves the experience somewhat less than secure. greatly. The extravagant dinner was topped off with a triple desert, Restaurants in Reykjavík one part of which was the now imperative hot chocolate fudge. Hrói Höttur, lunch buffet, Hringbraut 119, 107 As everyone seems to serve this it can become a very practical Reykjavík, Phone: 562-9292. 3 Frakkar, Baldursgata 14, p: 552-3939 index of a restaurant’s quality. It is, if I’m not mistaken, basically Apótek bar grill, Austurstræti 16, p: 575-7900 an underbaked muffin, and needs some delicacy in preparation. Argentína, Barónsstígur 11a, p: 551-9555 Cafe Oliver, Laugavegur 20a, p: 552-2300 This time round it was delicately prepared, but the ingredients Café Opera, Lækjargata 2, p: 552-9499 not quite chocolaty enough. Hornið, Hafnarstræti 15, p: 551-3340 I’m being something of a prick, but this restaurant sets its Humarhúsið, Amtmannstíg, 561-3303 standards high and can be measured accordingly. It is among Jómfrúin, Lækjargata 4, p: 551-0100 La Primavera, Austurstræti 9, 561-8555 the most promising and potentially amusing kitchens I’ve been Maru, A›alstræti 12, p: 511-4440 to, but not quite there yet. Pasta Basta, Klapparstígur 38, p: 511-2238 I’d also like them to make stronger coffee. Rauðará, Rauðarárstígur 39, p: 562-6766 Shalimar, Austurstræti 4, p: 551-0292 Sjávarkjallarinn, A›alstræti 2, p: 511-1212 Salt, Hotel 1919, Pósthússtræti 2, 101 Reykjavík, Skólabrú, Skólabrú 1, p: 562-4455 Phone: 599-1000. Tapas, Vesturgata 3b, p: 551-2344 Thorvaldsen bar, Austurstræti 8, p: 511-1413 Tjarnarbakkinn, Vonarstræti 2, p: 562-9700 Tveir Fiskar, Geirsgata 9, p: 511-3474 Við Tjörnina, Templarasund 3, p: 551-8666 Vox Nordica Hotel, Su›urlandsbraut 2, p: 444-5050

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Previous Bezt í Heimi winners: Restaurants

Ísbúð Vesturbæjar

Serving the old (gamli) style ice cream, which, according to the customers in line, is water- based, this is the favourite of every local who truly knows Reykjavík.

Shalimar

For many visitors to Iceland, it can be very confusing to see a dish labelled as hot only to discover this means it’s been dusted with black pepper. Fortunately, you’ll never have that problem at Shalimar. Argentína This is the kind of restaurant where you compliment the chef and tell yourself that if you ever

Frímann really make it, you will send him a Cadillac, where you feel that you and the maitre d’ really know something the rest of the world doesn’t. LOBSTER SOUP AT SÆGREIFINN Pizza King Sitting on a barrel inside the Sægreifinn fish shop, staring up at shop for locals, and the lobster soup, at 650 ISK, is a cherished the stuffed seal and stuffed ram’s head, having owner Kjartan secret. Taking our guidelines from an 8th grade shuffle by to serve another customer and repeating with a broader Okay, so here is what you need to order your soup. Góðan health book published in Cleveland, Ohio and broader smile “Vínurmín” (My friend) I acknowledged that dag. Ég ætla að fá humarsúpu og borða hana hér. Takk fyrir. in 1981, we can safely say that Pizza even if the humarsúpa (lobster soup) didn’t taste good this store Any anxiety you may feel about speaking a foreign language King will turn everyone who eats it into would still be worth a visit for anybody interested in local flavour. will be settled as soon as you take a sip of the soup. the next Bruce Jenner. Of course, the soup does taste good. A heavy, curry-flavoured Hótel Holt bisque with large chunks of lobster, Kjartan laughs and nods at Sægreifinn, Verbúð 8. Geirsgata. 101 Reykjavík. the idea that this is Bezt í Heimi (best in the world), of course it Open from 8:00 until 18:00. When it comes to lunch, Hótel Holt is is. one of the best-kept secrets in Reykjavík. If you’re wondering at this point why there is so much They offer a two-course lunches for 2200 Icelandic, I must warn you that Sægreifinn is one of the charming ISK and three-course lunches for 2700 locales in Reykjavík where English doesn’t pop up at all. It is a by Bart Cameron ISK. Not too bad a price, which gets even better when you consider the courses are traffic augl3.eps 6/7/05 10:52:45 AM classical French cuisine.

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Nei! sagði litla skrímslið (No! said the little monster) In keeping with our never-ending thirst for the little monster’s new markers, and stealing say “No” again. Icelandic literature, we dove headfirst into this money from the purse of the little monster’s As there aren’t nearly enough children’s lauded tome. Nei! won the Bookstore Worker’s mother. books that encourage children to stand up for Literary Prize in 2004 and was published How does the big monster get away with themselves while warning against repression, simultaneously in Iceland, Sweden, Denmark it, time and time again? Because, as the little we think this is a fine book to read to your kids. and the Faeroe Islands. While technically a monster recalls with increasing resentment, he The illustrations are darkly comical as well, and pan-Scandinavian effort, Áslaug Jónsdóttir is never dares to say anything. All that bottled- we hope to see more of Jónsdóttir’s work in the credited as translator, illustrator and co-author, up rage has got to come out sooner or later, future. which makes it Icelandic enough for us. and it does: he opens the door and screams Nei! recounts the tale of a little monster “No!” at the big monster. The big monster, Nei! sagði litla skrímslið (No! said the little whose peaceful afternoon is shattered by a understandably taken aback by this sudden monster) Rakel Helmsdal, Kalle Güettler, and knock at his door that fills him with dread, as growth of a spine, back-pedals and begs the Áslaug Jónsdóttir the unwelcome guest is “the big monster” – an little monster to stop screaming. The little Mál og Menning, 2004 obnoxious, pushy beast. From here, the story monster agrees to do so only if the big monster 1990 ISK, available at Penninn-Eymundsson and takes a Proustian turn into recollection, as we will agree to play nice. Remarkably, the big Mál og Menning, at locations around the country. journey through the little monster’s memories of monster obliges and the two become good the big monster’s transgressions, such as never friends. We leave the two with the little monster letting the little monster do the hiding in a confiding in us that if the big monster ever starts Literature game of hide-and-go-seek, leaving the caps off reverting to his old habits, he won’t hesitate to by Paul F Nikolov How To View the Woodcarver After reviewing Jón Adólf Steinsson’s work, Icelandic attitude dating back to the Norsemen one can’t help asking: is it craft, or is it art? In and the Vikings. They practiced the ritual of my opinion, the answer lies very much in the the “Öndvegissúla,” casting a totem-like carving viewer. into the ocean and leaving them to the fate of Take “The Judge,” for example. Well-crafted the winds and currents. They believed that the and accessible, Steinsson describes the piece gods guided the totems and thus they settled with remarkable passion. He says the piece was where they totems were later found. inspired by current events. He had read a piece His “found” pieces, often created from in the local dailies about a miscarriage of justice driftwood, display a more subtle talent. “I look and had been pondering the thought: “He at the wood for days, sometimes months, until who passes judgment without righteousness.” I know what it wants to become.” An image is The Kópavogur wood carver, who trained in “suggested” to him, a latent expression of Jón’s England and Australia, deals with a concept imagination and the inner life of the wood. deep in the local mythology. In another of his more striking pieces, Jón Adólf Steinsson’s work can be seen at “Time,” Steinsson comments on the theme: Kársnesbraut 91, Kópavogur, Phone: 896-6234.

Art&Craft “Time conquers all. Nothing can arrest it.” This Call for appointment. Images are also available grim take on mutability is actually a very typical online at www.jonadolph.com. By Axel Jóhann Björnsson

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Enjoy a meal at our restaurant while enjoying a view of the lagoon. The tempting a la carte menu includes a selection of international courses based on fresh Icelandic ingredients.

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Visit www.bluelagoon.com. Call 420 8832 to pre-book spa treatment, massage and a table at the restaurant.

Restaurant

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BLUE LAGOON – Geothermal Spa is open daily year round. 35

The Grapevine Presents A Spoken Word Creation Written for, But Not Performed by, the President of Iceland During the 61st Celebration of Iceland’s Independence, at Austurvöllur, Reykjavík, June 17th 2005.

Fellow citizens. My wife has taken up poetry and I will now read you one of her Oh, god of our country, poems, for our amusement, and to fulfill the last of my duties, oh, our country’s god, It was on a rainy day 61 years ago that the youthful visionaries the last duty ever laid on an Icelander, a duty that most certainly we praise your holy holy name, of an old nation came together on Þingvellir and declared will not remain unaccomplished, my duty to stand speaking at under the … stars … knitting … Iceland’s independence. Vigorously have we marched on, on this podium for a full twelve minutes. Here goes: for you a thousand years is like a day, the solid foundation of the world’s oldest democracy, towards a no, no: a day like a thousand years, bright future of prosperity, freedom and happiness. For 61 years Love is like a flower and a thousand years like a day, no more – and here it comes: Iceland has proudly asserted, not only its independence in the growing on lava Iceland’s thousand years, world of nations, but values and a character of its own. Yes, we on the way home from Keflavík airport. Iceland’s thousand years have marched proudly and our singing is heard. But now, my – a single, small eternity-flower dear fellow Icelanders, it is with unlimited joy that I tell you: I will then tell a joke: with a quivering tear March no more! The future is here! We are there! that worships its god Do you know how many Jews you can fit into a Volkswagen? and dies. Our dreams have been fulfilled. A recent survey, conducted – Excuse me, it slipped my mind that this joke does not secretly by government agents, proves beyond any reasonable amuse me. At all. Er … how many … hm … how many Well and there you are, my fellow citizens … as you can doubt that nothing is left to be done, no desire is unfulfilled. Icelanders does it take to screw in a lightbulb? None, for we see I am less and less formal as this speech goes on, quite Everyone is, if not totally satisfied, as satisfied as his or her have immigrant workers. Actually, this is no joke. Dear fellow appropriately for these not all that exciting but quite pleasant imagination allows for. Progress has succeeded. citizens: we have immigrant workers to do stuff for us. new times. There is one minute yet to go … one minute … like a thousand years, eh? I will use this final minute in the Agriculture, general production and business is handled by If you see them idly wandering the streets and you know of history of Iceland to mention a few of the coolest things that others. The development of thought has become as obsolete as something that might be done, don’t hesitate to call out and let ever happened – what I consider a few of the coolest things and the development of anything else, since no change is needed any them lend a hand! You may loathe work but they love it! They I guess you do, too – the cod exports started by World War more. You may expect technological innovations from all over still have desires to be fulfilled, these people, and some of you II, thank god for that; the Marshall Plan and all its washing the place – heck, you might even participate in such procedures, could make it into a hobby to aid them by giving them things to machines, that was quite important … Eurovision, handball, to kill time, so to speak. But nothing will be required of you do. I am sure some of you will. chocolate factories, er … tourists interested in the Icelandic ever again. horse, unaware that it’s not really a pony, hehe! Suckers! … I will now take off my jacket and swing it around to deCode, which I guess will remain a pleasant place for those Personally, I have thus taken up golf, to kill time, or what demonstrate my happiness at the success of progress. Whooooo! interested in genetics, and finally that contract with China. remains of it. Recommendations for other futile activities, Wheeeeee! Now, my children, my fellow citizens, you guys, I have spoken put forward in the conclusive report from the government for eleven and a half minutes, and it is high time to declare agents, include such diverse things as sex, car-racing, eating And finally, I will recite the Icelandic national hymn, in as the history of Iceland, and thereby Iceland itself, over. I don’t out, reading good books, reading bad books, watching movies, much as I remember it. Please stay silent, I want to see if I can resign, I declare that my job has vanished, as has the whole state meditation, karate, sprout fishing and creative writing courses. do this on my own. and its infrastructure – go and have fun in the sun, enjoy those There is not a doubt in my mind that all of you – all of us – will interest rates, dive in! Whooooo! find something unproductive but fairly amusing to do, until we Iceland’s thousand years, Iceland’s thousand years … no wait … wait, I know how it die. By Haukur Már Helgason begins … 36

as they walk in: “Birthday Table,” a kitschy, amateurish painting of Halloween candy by Þorri Hringsson on one wall, and two washed-out, roughly done paintings of shirts from the series “Blonde Doctors,” by Birgir Snæbjörn on the opposite wall. Some stronger pieces from the main gallery space – and there are many in this exhibition – would have been a wiser choice for a first impression. For example, Kristinn Gunnlaugsdóttir – best known for religiously themed paintings such as “The Virgin with Child,” which adorns the church in Stykkishólmur – makes a successful departure with “Landscape at Night,” two powerful fantasy landscape pieces. Sigtryggur Baldvinsson has two enormous abstract watercolours, “Giardini Publichi nr 32 and 33,” that employ an intricacy that draws observers into the piece before they even realize it. Sigurður Árni Sigurðsson’s piece – six molecular forms in bright colours entitled “Situation” – is playful and humorous. The basement space, while not a part of the exhibition, includes some stand-out works such as “64°09’21”N 22°00’36”W 286° True North,” a dark, haunting landscape by Húbert Nói Jóhannesson and two untitled, remarkable abstracts by Kristinn Már, whose use of texture and Byzantine colour schemes are reminiscent of Gustav Klimt.

The gallery has a separate room of such classic Icelandic artists as Georg Guðni, Kristín Jónsdóttir, and others, including a rare and uncharacteristic pencil drawing by Icelandic master Kjarval. Gullpensillinn’s exhibition might lack space for showing work. On the other hand, one Turpentine is a relatively new gallery, a single, unifying concept, but the overall smaller room in the back should probably be Gullpensillinn opened just last February by carpenter impression one gets is that this is a showing converted into a storage room: unused tracks for Sveinn Thorhallsson. “I’ve been worth repeated visits. (The Gold Brush) lighting in the ceiling, as well as three air vents interested in art for 15 years,” he told in one wall distract from whatever piece is being Turpentine Gallery, Ingólfsstræti 5, 101 Reykjavík me,”and when I saw this house I jumped displayed in the small space. The space in the Open Tues.-Fri., 12:00-18:00, Sat., 11:00-16:00. basement, however, has no such distractions. for it.” Sveinn will open the gallery for those who call ahead Currently showing is a group exhibition outside of hours operation: tel: 690-0931. of eleven artists called, “Gullpensillinn” (“The www.turpentine.is Or email: [email protected]. The main space of the gallery, with its high, Gold Brush”), an intriguing showing with mixed white walls and spacious windows, is an ideal results. Two unfortunate choices greet visitors By Paul F Nikolov Gallery Hulduhólar Sat 11:00-14:00 http://www.hulduholar.com Mosfellsbæ, tel: 556 6194 Gallery i8 LISTINGS A Persuit of Happiness ASAP – Lawrence Weiner until 20th of August Wed-Fri 11:00-17:00, Sat 13:00-17:00 http:// www.i8.is Want to be seen in the listings? Send us a Klapparstígur 33, tel: 551 3666 mail to [email protected] and your event Gallery of the Icelandic Printmakers Association will be announced in the next issue, and Forum For Kunst í Heidelberg until 12th of June the best thing is that being in the listings Tue-Sun 14:00-18:00 is free! http://www.islenskgrafik.is Tryggvagata 17, tel: 552 286 Gallery Skuggi EVENTS Thu-Sun 13:00-17:00 Openings—Good art goes best http://www.galleriskuggi.is Hverfisgata 39, tel: 511 1139 with complimentary beverages. Here are Grapevine’s picks for Gallery Sævar Karl Metamorphosis – Kristín Blöndal Gyllnihæð May. Mon-Fri 10:00-17:00 Compiled by Atli Bollason. http://www.saevarkarl.is VIRKNI MEÐVIRKNI EINLÆGNI Bankastræti 7, tel: 551 3470 Þjóðleikhúsið Gallery Tukt Myndlist – Steinunn Harðardóttir and Sæmundur Berglind Jóna Hlynsdóttir exhibits in the gallery Gyllinhæð, the students 24-26 JUNE DÍNAMÍT Þór Helgason until the 18th of June gallery of Iceland Academy of the Arts, located on Laugavegur 23 ( Just Weekdays 09:00-17:00 14:00 - 18:00 A play about Friedrich Nietzsche. http://www.hitthusid.is above gallery Kling & Bang). In her works she wonders about the concept Gyllinhæð To some extent the same can be said Pósthússtræti 3-5, tel: 520 4600 of freedom. Visitors are invited to participate in the exhibition by doing clay Guests of Berglind Jóna Hlynsdóttir’s about this play as about the Róska Gerðarsafn, Kópavogur Art Museum sculptures. exhibition “Activity Codependency documentary: Friedrich Nietzsche as Material Time/Work Time/Life Time until 21st Open 14:00-18:00, from the 23rd of June until the 26th of June. Sincerity,” where she contemplates of August. a character in Séð og heyrt. Except freedom, are invited to get their Tue-Sun 11:00-17:00 that the playwright also intends to http://www.gerdarsafn.is hands dirty. Hamraborg 4, tel: 570 0440 Icelandic Institute of Natural History Ófeigur’s Arthouse make a point, mainly that Nietzsche Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun 13:00-17:00 Hafsteinn Austmann – Akvarellur until 30th of Gerðuberg Culture Center http://www.ni.is/ June. was misunderstood by the Nazis, Hlemmur 5, tel: 590 0500 Mon–Fri 10:00–18:00 Sat: 10:00-14:00 26 JUNE Collectors II - What do Icelanders collect? that he really wasn’t a leather- Mon-Fri 11:00-17:00 Skólavörðustígur 5, tel: 551 1161 21:00 www.gerduberg.is Kjarvalsstaðir Art Museum boot sort of nationalist. The point A Selection of 20th Century Works Reykjavík Museum of Photography Klink & Bank Gerðuberg 3-5, tel: 575 7700 however is that neither novel is really http://www.listasafnreykjavikur.is Without Roots – 8 South African Photographers Andrew McKensie, aka The Hafl er Gljúfrasteinn - Laxness museum Daily 10:00-17:00 Mon-Fri 12:00-19:00, Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00. relevant to any ongoing discussion. Thu-Sun 10:00-17:00 Flókagata, Miklatún, tel: 552 6131 http://www.ljosmyndasafnreykjavikur.is Trio, is one of the pioneers of sound- Tryggvagata 15, 6th floor, tel: 562 1790 art, or noise, or whatever you want to Would be great if it were better www.gljufrasteinn.is Mosfellsdalur, tel: 586 8066 Kling & Bang Gallery call it. He’s been going strong since written. Skiptholt – John Bock until 26th of JUNE Safn TOURdeFORCE until 10th of July Reykjavik Swinging Corridor – Carsten Höller 1980 and this is your chance to have Gyllinhæð – Icelandic Academy of Arts Wed-Sun 14:00-18:00 Thu-Sun 15:00-18:00 Homage to the proxy - JBK Ransu until the 12th a chat with the lad. Einar Jónsson Sculpture Museum Laugavegi 23 http://this.is/klingogbang of June Tues-Sun14:00 - 17:00 Laugavegur 23, tel: 696 2209 Wed-Fri 14:00-18:00, Sat-Sun 14:00-17:00 http://www.skulptur.is Hafnarborg - Institute of Culture and Fine Art http://www.safn.is 28 JUNE Njarðargata, tel: 551 3797 Wilhelm Sasnal, Bojan Sarcevic, On Kawara and National Gallery of Iceland Laugavegur 37, tel: 551 4409 Elke Krystufek. Train – Dieter Roth 20:30 FUGL – Reykjavík Project Space Wed-Sun 11:00-17:00 11:00-17:00 except Mon Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum Redundant Information – Ívar Brynjólfsson until http://www.hafnarborg.is http://www.listasafn.is Acquisitions and Donations Sigurjón Ólafsson museum 26th of June Strandgata 34, tel: 555 0080 Fríkirkjuvegur 7, tel: 515 9600 Tue-Sun 14:00-17:00 Helga Þórarinsdóttir viola and Kristinn Mon–Fri 10:00–18:00, Sat 11:00–16:00 http://www.lso.is H. Árnason guitar. Works by Antonio http://fugl.is Hafnarfjörður Folk Museum National Museum of Iceland Laugarnestangi 70, tel: 553 2906 Skólavörðustígur 10, tel: 695 4202 Weekends 13:00 – 17:00 Daily 11:00-17:00 Vivaldi, Ferdinando Carulli, Enrique http://www.hafnarfjordur.is/byggdasafn http://www.natmus.is The Living Art Museum Granados, Manuel de Falla, Heitor Gallery Fold Vesturgata 5, tel: 565 5420 Suðurgata 41, tel: 530 2200 Procession – Thomas Hirschhorn Mon-Fri 10:0-18:30, Thu 10:00-21:00, Sat 10:00- Signal in the Heavens Villa Lobos and Árni Thorsteinsson. 18:00 Sun 13:00-17:00 Hafnarhús - Reykjavík Art Museum Nordic House Wed-Sun 13:00 - 17:00 http://www.myndlist.is Train – Dieter Roth Works on Paper - Ørnulf Opdahl http://www.nylo.is Kringlan Mall, tel: 568 0400 Daily 10:00 -17:00 Deep Sea Organisms - David Shale both until Laugavegur 26, tel: 551 4350 5 JULY http://www.listasafnreykjavikur.is 12th of June. Gel Gallery Tryggvagata 17, tel: 590 1200 Tue-Sun 12:00-17:00 Volcano show: Red rock cinema 12:15 Hverfisgata 37, tel: 551 7733 http://www.nordice.is Part One at 15:00 & 20:00, Part Two at 16:00 & Sturlugata 5, tel: 551 7030 21:00 Dómkirkjan Hellusund 6a, tel: 845 9548 Classical music group Gestalæti, Orkuveita Reykajvíkur - Galleri 100° which consists of five truly beautiful Train - Dieter Roth YZT Mon-Fri 8:30-16:00, Sat 11:00 – 17:00 Laugavegur 40, tel: 552 6000 girls will play for free in Reykjavík’s http://www.rafheimar.is cathedral next to the parliament (not Bæjarhálsvegur 1, tel: 516 6790 Hallgrímskirkja).

20:30 Sigurjón Ólafsson museum Trio Trix. Sigríður Bjarney Baldvinsdóttir violin, Vigdís Másdóttir viola and Helga Björg Ágústsdóttir cello. String Trio in a-minor by the German composer Max Reger and Serenade op. 11 by the Hungarian composer Ernst von Dohnányi.

7 JULY 20:00 Iðnó Classical music group Gestalæti in Iðnó, Vonarstræti. WWW.GRAPEVINE.IS ONGOING 101 Gallery Jokla Series – Ólafur Elíasson until 1st of July Thu -Sat 14:00 - 17:00 http://www.101hotel.is/101hotel/101gallery Hverfisgata 18a, tel: 561 0125

ASÍ museum Headphones with Migrant Stories Ólafur Árni Ólafsson and Libia Pérez de Siles de Castro until 10th of July Tue-Sun 13:00 - 17:00 http://www.asi.is Freyjugata 41, 101 R, tel: 511 5353 Árbæjarsafn, Folk Museum Thu- Fri 10:00–17:00, Sat-Sun 10:00–18:00 http://www.arbaejarsafn.is Kistuhyl 4, 110 R, tel: 577 1111 Ásmundarsafn, Sculpture museum National Museum of Iceland. The Man and Material Daily 10:00-16:00 WHAT MAKES A NATION? http://www.listasafnreykjavikur.is Sigtún, 105 R, tel: 553 2155 A must-see at the National Museum of Iceland is the permanent exhibition CIA - Center for Icelandic Art Making of a Nation–Heritage and History in Iceland. It provides an insight Mon-Fri 10:00 – 16:00 into the history of the Icelandic nation from the Settlement to the present http://www.cia.is Hafnarstræti 16, tel: 562 7262 day. The exhibition includes about 2,000 objects, from the Settlement Age to the Culture House The Road to Zion and Nordic bookbinding 2005 present, plus about 1,000 photographs from the 20th century. Daily 11:00-17:00 http://www.thjodmenning.is Hverfisgata 15, tel: 545 1400 Þjóðminjasafn Íslands, Suðurgata 41, 101 Reykjavík Tel: 530-2200 www.thjodminjasafn.is 38

Thursday June 9th Skátar & Reykjavík Sirkus

Concert Reviews

Reykjavík! know the value of showmanship. Singer Bóas is basically all over the place during their performances of short and energetic songs. Friday In tiny bars like Sirkus this can be quite a thing to watch, as he jumped June 10th on top of the bar, fell into the crowd, and basically acted like a complete Skátar & The Foghorns moron - all a few inches from the concert guests. But this behaviour has always been considered cool in rock and roll and I’m not going to Bad Taste Gallery question that opinion. When asked to play an encore, guitarist Haukur responded: “We’ve only been a band for a year. We don’t know any more songs!” That’s Reykjavík!: Really fast, really short, really stupid, and The Foghorns are an unusual bunch. Armed only pretty darn good. with a single guitar and a bucket they perform songs drawing heavily from American folk music. At the heart of these relatively simple songs lay beautiful What’s great about Skátar (Scouts) lyrics performed by frontman Bart Cameron, whose is that they have very good singing is the key element of the band. Drummer drumming and some interesting (bucketeer?) Paul Fontaine kept the beat by hitting guitar work. On top of that they’re his bucket in a robotic, Kraftwerk-like style in sharp pretty adventurous when it comes contrast to Bart’s lively performance. In the latter to song structures and dressing up. half of the show they were joined by Australian Some gestures aren’t as impressive: violinist Marisa Allen who added country-fiddle like the bassist’s habit to turn his parts. The fiddle was welcome but the band was a back to the crowd when singing, bit insecure in its presence, something a bit more the awkward synthesizer intros, practice would’ve taken care of. the tendency for songs to sound as though they’ve fallen apart, and the vocals. If they would tidy up the songs, make them more like... songs, and allow the synth player Saturday to focus on his instrument and ease up on singing, our reviewer would June 11 be relieved. He left the show with Jagúar Langhorns the mantra “Chaos is good, but Bad Taste Gallery organized chaos is even better.”

Unfortunately Icelandic funk band Jagúar cancelled its performance at the last minute. Their replacement was the more than satisfactory. Rass (Arse) will have a hard time fleeing Swedish surf-group Langhorns, who came on stage its past as heavy metal band HAM. This wearing Hawaiian shirts and beach sandals, which was apparent during their set in the somehow made sense because of the extraordinarily Sirkus-garden when a crowd member hot weather. The guitar sound was just right, the begged them to perform “Partíbær” which farfisa organ was in place and the guitarist’s right is HAM’s most famous song. But Rass hand was fast (or shaky) enough. The tunes were frontman Ótarr Proppé kept a straight definitely entertaining and well-performed, but face and launched into yet another one- one must ask himself whether it makes any sense minute, one-phrase, one-chord punk song. performing a genre that had its prime time in the I came in a bit late and asked a crowd early sixties. Or, one could just shut up and have a member how many songs Rass had played. blast. That’s what I did. “Seventeen songs in three minutes,” he responded. This was almost true. Still, Thursday every second was enjoyable, the raw power RASS and the unique sense of humour took care Saturday June 16th of that. Þórir June 18th Sirkus Bad Taste Gallery Thursday June 16th Bob & Coral Bar 11

The first thing one noticed upon entering Bar 11 was Bob’s huge amount of guitar pedals and effects. “We just finished it last In his early twenties, singer and songwriter night,” guitarist Finnur Kári said referring to a Coral’s first two songs fell somewhere between indie- Þórir may be the most respected and trusted newly crafted wooden board carrying close to rock a la Sonic Youth and Foo Fighters’ mainstream musician in Reykjavík, and on June 18th thirty tiny sound machines. Second guitarist rock. By their third song “This Dark Globe” things he demonstrated why. For a day after the and vocalist Matthías had about ten pedals, started to pick up. The song started out with a big Independence Day party show, Þórir whilst bassist Skúli let five of them do the Muse-like riff and a verse-chorus-verse structure appeared at the Lobster or Fame Gallery trick. When they played it was often hard to – not bad but short of great. A twenty minute freak- fresh-faced and ready to deliver. The crowd, hear what sound came from what instrument out soon followed, where every player of the band lingering and lumbering and severely and whether it was of this world or not. But soloed insanely over a two-note bass riff. This was thinned out by post-party ailments, was Bob knew better than to rely on their pedals. reminiscent of Pink Floyd circa Meddle or Saucerful relieved by the low volume and smooth The sound effects are only backing up truly of Secrets - if Pink Floyd had ever listened to funk delivery that Þórir brought as he delivered impressive and adventurous songs, which are music, for the rhythms were insane and the drum- six numbers, including a new song, Stage among the best I’ve heard from an Icelandic solo a definite high point. This improvised coda was Dives and High Fives, hinting at his other band in a while. However, the long periods of the best thing of the evening and we were looking life as guitarist in hardcore band Fighting silence that came between songs were really forward to how Coda could have topped it. Like Shit. Þórir took his one man show next door irritating and I hope Bob will learn to adjust most bands in the country, they couldn’t top it, which to Sirkus to continue the show, and most of their pedals much faster in the future. is understandable. the crowd followed. 39 Grapevine Bad Taste Summer Concert Series June 24 - July 7

Friday Byltan Doddi Byltan June 24th, 5pm Doddi Bad Taste Gallery Byltan frontman Birgir Ísleifur is expecting his first child (well, his fiancée is expecting it) somewhere between Thursday and Friday and will therefore not be able to play in Gallery Lobster or Saturday Stranger Fame on Friday at 5 pm. June 25th, 3pm However, troubador Doddi will cover for them.

Bad Taste Gallery Last years Expectations by Doddi came as a pleasant surprise for fans of Nick Drake. But Doddi’s debut album covers a lot more ground Stranger than that, nodding to shoegaze and electronica. Stranger can be anything from a one man band to a Being a classically trained cello player Doddi is a fully fledged outfit, making each performance truly real catch when performing live. special. Even though his name gives the impression of distance and unfamiliarity, Stranger has an intimate feel that is worth catching onstage.

Æla Owing a lot to Iceland’s Purrkur Pillnikk - especially the spoken-word delivery of lyrics - Æla (Puke) are sure to make you throw up if you can’t stand their take on post punk. However, it’s more likely you’ll be feeling sick after an unhealthy amount of sweating during their powerful shows. Bacon Bacon have two EPs under their belt, each an interesting excercise in melting electronics with a rock-based sound palette. Their live shows take this even further, featuring lots of percussion, samplers, and synths; but also the usual drums, guitar and bass.

Thursday Bacon & Æla Sex Division Sex Division are a punk-rock band June 30th, 9pm from Keflavík (where the airport is located), a town known for its constant Bar 11 output of great pop bands since the Kimono 60’s (it’s actually called the Beatles- town). That doesn’t really matter to Sex Division because they’re only in Friday town to give the rest of us a lesson in July 1st, 5pm Æla jumping around. Bad Taste Gallery New single “Aftermath” sees Kimono turning Retron their back on the post-rock sound that inhabited This may sound a bit odd, but Retron are a Saturday Mineur Aggresif from 2003 and embracing two-man, one-computer, heavy metal band. the new-wave revival. Don’t write them off Their sound reminds you of the good old July 2nd, 3pm yet, though, because the track is truly amazing 8-bit Nintendo video games, and this feeling Kimono and raises hopes for their upcoming album is even stronger when they actually cover Bad Taste Gallery dramatically. songs from those classic games. The whole video-game visual part of their shows is also something to see on its own. Thursday Sex Division and Retron July 7th, 9pm The Grapevine and Bad Taste introduce the Grapevine Bad Taste Summer Concert Series Bar 11 With the goal of providing legitimate venues and promotion for everyone involved in the vibrant and diverse local music scene, The Reykjavík Grapevine is proud to announce the Grapevine Bad Taste Summer Concert Series. Starting May 27 and running until September 9, the Reykjavík Grapevine along with Bad Taste Gallery and Thule, the world famous beer by Vífilfell Brewery, will Bad Taste Gallery (Smekkleysa gallerý), put on three concerts a week at Bar 11 and at the Bad Taste Gallery. Laugavegur 59, 101 Reykjavík. The shows will feature local and international bands. Every performance will be Phone: 534-3730 reviewed, though the Grapevine promises to maintain its current standards: great Bar 11, performances will be acknowledged; lacklustre performances will be evaluated as such. Laugavegur 11, 101 Reykjavík All Icelandic bands are invited to contact us and schedule a performance. Phone: 511-1118 Please email [email protected] or call 847-9290. 40

By Paul F Nikolov Guide to the ratings (In honour of new Íslandsvinur Duran Duran) system: Normally, we rate albums in terms of numbers of beers, but, Eighties Album Reviews as beer was illegal in Iceland until 1989, we’re rating these albums with bjórlíki – pilsner spiked with a shot of liquor.

Duran Duran Playing on June 30th in Iceland

Ah, the 80s. Sideways ponytails, acid wash jeans, and the whole world perpetually on the brink of global thermonuclear war. It’s easy to understand why 80s nostalgia is so popular today. But was the music really as good as it seems today? Grapevine decided to dig up seven 80s albums once considered timeless classics to see if they’ve withstood the test of time.

Stuðmenn Mezzoforte, Með Allt Á Hreinu (1982) Garden Party (1983) Comparable Contemporary: Trabant Comparable Contemporary: Incomparable with anyone on the air today, to Description: Like trying to swallow the relief of everyone. all the candies in grandma’s dish in Description: A nightmarish journey through a neon-coloured, mullet- one gulp. Its sole redeeming track is sporting, Reebok-wearing wasteland. the Devoesque “Sigurjón digri.” Dated Features: The slap bass, electric drums, nauseating washes of Dated Features: The harmonica keyboards, falsetto vocals . . . hell, it’s all dated. effect on “Haustið ’75,” among Rating: The only use for this album is to remind the nostalgic of just others. how horrifying the 80s could be. Rating: Fun to listen to only if you’ve seen the movie of the same name, Costs three bjórlíki, worth only the pilsner. which is actually quite good.

Costs four bjórlíki, Todmobile worth one. Betra en nokkuð annað (1989) Comparable Contemporary: Skunk Anansie Description: Airy, light compositions with an Eastern feel. Rikshaw Dated Features: Fretless bass. Rating: Your teenage sister might laugh at it, but who cares? Angels and Devils (1990) Comparable Contemporary: Pink Costs four bjórlíki, worth four. Floyd. That’s today’s Floyd, mind you. Description: Despite the cringingly bad lyrics (“I’m dreaming of making it big some day in the land of make believe”), actually not too bad for its time. Megas Dated Features: The horn section. Loftmynd (1986) Rating: Decidedly dated, but Comparable Contemporary: Incomparable with anyone on the air today, to tolerable so long as you ignore the the envy of many wanna-bes. singer. Description: Zig-zags thrillingly through jugband, boogie, and blues. Best played in a smoky bar occupied only by you, someone asleep at a table, and a Costs three bjórlíki, surly bartender polishing glasses. worth two. Dated Features: The overdone keyboards on “Enginn vegur fær.” Rating: Timeless.

Bubbi Morthens Costs four bjórlíki, Kona (1985) worth five. Winner. Comparable Contemporary: Bubbi Morthens Description: Mostly acoustic, with two light jazz numbers (Frósin gríma Duran Duran, Helvítis Útlendingar and Eina nótt í viðbótt). Duran Duran (1981) Dated Features: Unnecessary and formless keyboards. Comparable Contemporary: Daft Punk Rating: Would be his best album Description: Driving, bare-bones, post-new wave pop songs good enough to ever, if not for the keyboards. let you not care how uncool it is to love this album. Dated Features: Flange galore. Costs four bjórlíki, Rating: As dated as hair mousse but a worth three. hell of a lot of fun. Costs two bjórlíki, worth four. 41

THE NEW BREED AT KEFLAVIK While the Beatles were poppin’ all over the world in the sixties, Keflavík was the home of rock in Iceland. But now these old bands, Hljómar (Chords), Flowers and most of their followers Live Music Report are long gone. Some are dead, some are making radio-friendly music and others have simply grown too old for all this rocking and rolling. Still, Keflavík is still producing music that matters. Today the state-of-the-art is bull-rock (tuddarokk) and punk with a touch of politics. The toughest band in the place is probably TommyGun Preachers, lead by the man in leather (no, it’s not Bruce Dickinson, it’s that other guy). If you want to see blood, sweat and even some tears you’d want to go see them live, because not only does the guitarist end up with bleeding fingers after some heavy solos, even the bassist bleeds. How tough is that? If you liked purrkur pillnikk—Of Rokk í Reykjavík fame-- you should check Æla (puke) out. They are lead by Halli Valli who some say is even cooler then Einar Örn. They play terribly happy punk and show their happiness on stage when they, instead of sitting, stand on the chairs and/or throw them off the stage. The third interesting band is Sex Division. The name indicates their influences and if you didn’t know any better you just might think they

Gúndi came straight from Manchester. Mature dance- punk with red lyrics about the ugly side of our pretty little Iceland. The word on the street says that a record is in the making and should be out any month now. On the other hand, if you want to have an easy evening with a little cup of coffee and comfortable music, you should see the Aftan- festival which is held in Sandgerði--next to Keflavík-- the first Thursday of every month. There you’ll witness bands like Tabula-rasa, Hálftíma-Gangur and Fríða & Dýrið who remind us of how to relax and how the blues is done.

Recommended Keflavík Music Clubs: Paddy’s, Keflavík ;Frumleikhúsið, Keflavík, and Traffic, If you liked purrkur pillnikk -Of Rokk í Reykjavík Gúndi

Hafnargata 30, Keflavík, 421-8885. Gúndi fame- you should check Æla (puke) out. by Diddi

thehottest

placein Iceland´s coolest city find out what’s going on at www.pravda.is 42 Live Music Review Paul / Grapevine

17 JUNE CONCERTS KK Band, Hjálmar, Írafár, Papar, Stuðmenn

Gúndi and Mínus at Arnarhóll, And Accordion Club of Reykjavík at City Hall.

not a simple sound orgy, but rather a Bob will be one of the best bands in When you’re desperate to have a nice holiday, and the sky is grey and rain BOB AND CORAL fine example of a great band. town. is coming down in sheets, you can make yourself believe that Love Guru, at Bar 11, Thursday 16 Bob’s songs are rooted in the a portly goofball hip hop persona from Selfoss is entertainment embodied. adventurous indie rock of Sonic Coral are better known locally, This year, though, the weather was decent, and the music had a hard time June, 10 pm. Youth but also bear a resemblance to having put out a self-titled EP a catching the crowd’s interest. A loud droning more dreamy acts such as Slowdive few years back and having a song in The main difficulty was the same as happens when any municipality sound filled the second floor from and My Bloody Valentine. Tempo cinematic catastrophe Gemsar. For organizes a large music festival: the music was supposed to be for the new stage at Bar 11. Gradually, and meter changes are no problem their first couple of songs singer/ everybody, and therefore it satisfied almost nobody. The early concerts it got fuller made richer with for Bob, and going from A to B to guitarist Gunnar obviously had briefly convinced the crowd to look at the stage instead of the sun or their cymbal swirls and bass notes. This C to D without looking back for a troubles with his voice, stretching it own children, KK Band gave a spirited blues performance that goes well at was Bob’s first number; applauded chorus or a replay is quite normal in in a way that didn’t sound good or any festival, and Hjálmar played good reggae for good weather. by the late-to-arrive crowd. Bob’s Bob’s world. Amazingly, they pull healthy. But by the third number, Beyond this, Papar and Stuðmenn clowned around well, though ability to electronically manipulate it off without ever making you look “This Dark Globe”, Coral found Stuðmenn’s introduction of Icelandic Idol winner Hildur Vala was a chord having been tested, the rest the other way. But all those delays its note. The song started with a unfortunate—she was asked to sing songs obviously out of her range. And of their programme consisted of and other stuff have a price; the charged Muse-like riff, going from Mínus showed their patriotic spirit by playing their hearts out despite a more structured songs, some even price of configuration. Bob allowed verse to chorus and back for a few sound system that did them no justice whatsoever. featuring vocals. themselves up to three minutes minutes, before blowing up and out Not far from the festival, members of the staff stumbled across the true Bob’s little sound machines between songs to twiddle knobs into an improvised twenty-minute musical highlight of the evening: the performance of the Accordion Club played a large role; skewing sounds, and press buttons, a very frustrating freak-out groove. of Reykjavík, ten accordion players with bassist, guitarist and drummer, ripping them apart and putting them experience for listeners and viewers giving dance music for hearty older locals. back together. However, the gig was alike. Once they get that cleared up by Atli Bollason by Bart Cameron 43

Live music 22-01, then DJ Maggi. Grapevine Bad Taste: Kimono Nelly´s Smekkleysa plötubúð Local band Ég at 23:00. Jazz funk with Seath Sharp and Teague LISTINGS Grand Rokk League 22-01, then DJ Johnny takes over.

Troubadors Böster and Mongo. Hressó Ari í Ögri Live music 22-01, then DJ Nonni 900.

Tveir á milli strengja and Garðar Garðars- Nelly´s Music and nightlife events usually son. Norwegian glam rock group Wig Wam. start around 21:00, unless otherwise Celtic Cross Gaukur á Stöng stated. Pubs close at 01:00 on Troubadors Acoustic. weekdays and much, much later on SUNDAY Ari í Ögri weekends. For those just wanting JUNE 26 to party, the pubs and clubs don’t MONDAY get crowded until after midnight on DJ Arna. weekends, although Thursday is a Kaffibarinn JULY 4 semi-official night out. DJ crew Hanndatt. DJ Arna. Prikið Kaffibarinn WEDNESDAY JULY 6 Concert: Tómas R’s Latin Quartet. Grand Rokk DJ Adda & Edda. June 30th, at Egilshöll Kaffibarinn DURAN DURAN THURSDAY JULY 7 This will be cool, I’m glad I just got a mullet, maybe I should DJ Ingvar Geirs. dye my hair, too, and I need earrings... and eyeliner. Shit, this Kaffibarinn will be the best freaking show ever!! I wish Wham! were opening for Djs Tommi White and Andrés on the lower floor with live music by Magni on the up- them, that would suit them just fine, opening for the best god damn per one. 80s band there ever was! You’ll see me stage-diving, wearing only too Sólon tight snow white jeans and my eyeliner. Grapevine Bad Taste: Sex Division and Retron. Bar 11 SATURDAY Lost and Found from 22-01. THURSDAY Hressó JULY 2 JUNE 30 Blues-festival: In the memory of Elvis- DJ Alfons X. Presley. Heiða from Idol, Regína Ósk, and DJ Adda & Edda. Friðrik Ómar Hjörleifsson. Kaffibarinn Kaffibarinn June 24th, at Grand Rokk, 22:00 Tjarnarborg, Ólafsfirði DJ Árni Sveins. Happy hour between 21 DJs Brynjar Már and Þröstur 3000. THE WESTMAN ISLANDS INVASION! and 22. Sólon Prikið The Westman Islands invasion! It was about time they invaded and took DJ Einar Sonic. over. Just look how poorly we’ve been running things here Sirkus ourselves. Anyway, six bands from the islands now known as the Islands Djs Tommi White and Andrés on the lower floor with live music by Magni on the up- Made of Rock, will play tonight, stoner rockers in Hoffman have per one. received some attention for their critically acclaimed EP out last Sólon Christmas so they along with the girls only band Va-Gina will be the Grapevine Bad Taste: Æla and Bacon at headlining bands tonight. Also playing are Andrúm, Memphis, Thorshamar, 10 pm. Bar 11 and last but not least rock boys Armæða. Troubador Turner from 22 to 01. Hressó FRIDAY FRIDAY JUNE 24 MONDAY JULY 1 JUNE 27 “The Invasion form the Westman-Islands”; DJ Kári a concert at 22:00 featuring Thorshamrar, Fortune-teller Vala. Kaffibarinn Hoffman, Andrúm, Armæða, Memphis and Prikið Va-gína. DJs Brynjar Már and Þröstur 3000. Grand Rokk Sólon Böddi og Danni play at 10 pm and DJ Grapevine Bad Taste: Æla at 5 pm. Heiðar Austmann takes over at 1 am. Smekkleysa plötubúð July 7th, at The Sportscenter of Austurberg, time: 20:00 Hressó Live music 22-01, then DJ Nonni 900. DJ Alfons X. Nelly´s THE BIGGEST BAND IN ICELAND: Kaffibarinn Rock concert: Shadow parade, Ókind and DJ Árni Sveins Kalli from Tenderfoot. SNARSVEIT REYKJAVÍKUR Sirkus Grand Rokk DJ Brynjar Már and DJ 3000 from midnight Techno: Addi Exos & co. Well, now finally a live music event anyone can take part in, you just show with the hottest dance and R&B music. Gaukur á Stöng up with your instrument of choice and play along. To participate you Sólon Troubadors Acoustic. have to sign up no later then 20:00 but if you’re only going to watch, DJ James Zabiela at 23:00. Admission 1500 Ari í Ögri ISK. the band (who will by then hopefully be pretty big) starts playing at Nasa Troubadors Ari & Gunni 22-01, then DJ 21:00. The band will then play for about 30 min. We recommend bringing Johnny takes over. DJ KGB. Hressó either a jaw harp, or a grand piano. Prikið June 27th, Kaplakriki (Haf- DJs Brynjar Már and Þröstur 3000. narfjörður) Sólon Grapevine Bad Taste: Pop group Byltan at MEGADETH 17:00. Smekkleysa plötubúð So, what happens when you get fired Live music 22-01, then DJ Maggi. Nelly´s from Metallica? Well, how about Rock concert: Brain Police and Astara just starting a better band that won’t Gaukur á Stöng turn into a parody of itself in a few Troubadors Böster and Mongo. years? Hell yeah! Megadeth’s Dave Ari í Ögri Mustaine did that, and now he’s here with his band to remind us SATURDAY how metal sounds, and extend our JUNE 25 vocabulary of F words. A ball featuring Ísafold. Gaukur á Stöng Ball with Nýdönsk. TUESDAY Nasa JUNE 28 DJ Brynjar Már and DJ 3000 from midnight with the hottest dance and R&B music. Concert: Malneirophrenia featuring Markús Bjarnason and Godkrist at 21:00. Sólon Stúdentakjallarinn Dj Kári. Dj Palli from Maus. Kaffibarinn Prikið DJ KGB, Sirkus WEDNESDAY DJ Tommi White. Prikið JUNE 29 DJs Brynjar Már and Þröstur 3000. Dj Daði. Sólon Prikið Grapevine Bad Taste: Stranger at 3 pm. DJ Palli from Maus. Smekkleysa plötubúð Kaffibarinn 44

Movie Reviews

BATMAN + SIN CITY Superhero Actors, Supervillain Script: Batman Begins Also, Sin City and Successful Comic Book Movies

First the new Star Wars, now Batman screen during some dull moments, especially credit for reviving the Batman franchise. He Batman Begins, Frank Miller presents crazies Begins, I can’t help wondering when did during a surprisingly lame plot sequence shouldn’t. Nolan co-wrote the script, which as less logical, and problems as less solvable. the entertainment world get so ridiculously with Liam Neeson. Still, Bale’s Batman is leaves no heavy-handed clichéd psychological And yet, Sin City is not a rewarding film literal and genuine? A little sincerity and a commendable, if Sisyphean, performance. observation on fear or power unstated. He because it is only a comic book on the screen. skill is refreshing, especially as pumped into Not only does he throw heaping gutfulls of also must have had something to do with Whereas Nolan features his actors overcoming the dead and decaying Star Wars series. But psychological depth into the character, not only the camera placement, which, during the bad lines and bad camera angles, Miller and Christopher Nolan has attacked the Batman does he genuinely seem like a man who would many fight sequences, shows only Mr. Bale’s co-director Robert Rodriguez show actors series with a blunt adherence to Freud and, put on a black cape and beat the crap out of wrists, teeth and eye-liner. When Nolan as stylized and two-dimensional. Without as is proudly revealed in the dialogue, Jung, you, but he also pulls off humour and wit. has to deal with the obligatory explosion, he allowing the actors to charm the screen, you in a put on kind of manner. The result is an Bale’s ability to portray the bored billionaire seems completely out of his element—which basically get a Xerox of a comic on the big overstated belief in rudimentary psychology alter-ego of Bruce Wayne and make him makes Iceland’s opening role in the film screen. that one usually only sees among 19-year old disappointing. Iceland’s Svínafellsjökull and men in small campus coffee houses at 1 in Vatnajökull are the site of ninja fights and a To understand the possibilities of comic the morning trying to seduce more attractive random series of explosions so lame, that in the books on the big screen, it may be best to women who have just broken up with their audience full of proud Icelanders with whom take a good look at a collection of Batman or jock popular guy boyfriends. I watched this film, I counted three people Spiderman comics, and listen to some jazz. Yes, review Batman Begins on the merits SMSing out of boredom, and two more got up Batman and Spiderman origins get retold of its storytelling or script and you don’t exactly to take a bathroom break, though the film had almost yearly, drawn over and over again come away with a winner. Yet one can still only been going thirty minutes. with different artists. As the melody, or story, recommend the new Batman movie more The truth is that Christian Bale, Gary becomes more and more familiar, artists have highly than any other superhero feature, based Oldman and Cillian Murphy, with help stretched the possibilities’ representation. entirely on the performance of its actors. First from Michael Caine and Morgan Freeman, This is what we have to look for in films of all, there are outstanding performances could stand in front of a camera and read the of comic books: a familiar story with either by all the European actors involved in this entertaining—even moreso than when he is Lawrence Kansas phone book and make it a director like Tim Burton, or actors like most American of stories—yes, Christopher Batman—is remarkable. There are two decisive interesting. Nolan didn’t give them much more Christian Bale and Gary Oldman, who throw Nolan, an Englishman, has placed Brits and moments in the film that should have been than this. some life into the melody. The enormous an Irishman in key roles, and they have all throwaways in which Bale is asked to entertain Sin City, which has a late release date number of constraints that a comic book movie demonstrated that they are far better at being the audience and the actors on screen simply by in Iceland, is essentially the product of the forces on its creators can make for stylized and gutsy and charming Americans than Katie being nonchalant; one can’t imagine what the same writer: Frank Miller revived the Batman impressive acting or directing. But it doesn’t Holmes or anyone of her ilk. Charisma- direction on this was, other than “We’re going series, though the films he inspired have never look like complete films will be coming out of despite-lines performances by Cillian Murphy to hang you out to dry here.” Instead of being given him due credit. The new film of his this genre. and Gary Oldman continuously drive the film, hung out to dry, these moments when Bale has non-superhero series credits him as much as and when those two are on the screen, the no gadgets or even decent lines prove to be the possible, and keeps every quality the comics movie goes well. most memorable of the film. boasted: ambiguity, guts, style. Whereas Christian Bale, playing the title character, This is a case of a film saved by fearless Christopher Nolan presents an obvious good is not quite so fortunate—he has to be on the actors, but Nolan will probably get a lot of guy overcoming psychological turmoil in by Bart Cameron 45 Dark Horse: Boy Meets Girl Raises the Stakes in Icelandic Cinema

Boy meets girl. How liberating can the however, does not become a burden here, formula be in 2005? Very. The film, titled it’s merely the etymology of a language the Voksne mannesker in Danish (Grown-up director quite fluently speaks. People) but a tad more irritatingly Dark Horse in English, brought this particular In the context of Icelandic cinema in viewer absolute cinematic joy, perhaps general, this film has liberating aspects. more so than any Icelandic director’s film There are no mountains in it – none before it. at all. In its production questions of “When you start speaking of A-taxes nationality seem to have been considered and B-taxes, my sight goes black and I as irrelevant as they are to the story told: want to die” are the approximate first a story of city-life. Only a decade ago, words of the film, told by its hero, the people’s main worry when Friðriksson’s slacker graffiti-artist Daniel, confronted highly recommendable Cold Fever was with “grown-up” reality in a tax office. premiered, was that it displayed a distorted We follow him and his Laurel&Hardy image of Iceland and its inhabitants. companion on to the point of meeting Cinema was given a representative role for The Girl, with particular consequences state and nation. Perhaps Cold Fever was upon which the hero acts. Sorry for a pivotal point in that respect; ten years the vague summary of the story, but it later, in any case, Dark Horse bears no would be a shame to spoil this film with such perverse burden, it is cinema. particulars. As compared with Dagur Kári’s The small, often tremendously comical celebrated debut, Nói Albinói, Dark situations, gestures and reactions that Horse involves the same subtle humour make up the film lead to a point where and eccentric out-of-place main character. all the hero’s and viewer’s emotion and But the film, as well as its main character, existential crises pour into the image of is more at ease with its eccentricities here, a car halted as a capsule bridge lifts, then than was Nói. There is a tremendous recedes; at which point the viewer might, lightness to this film, replacing both just might, lose all sense of self, observing Nói’s claustrophobic isolation and the the pure mechanic movement, wake up elegant but rigorous and sometimes over- again and follow Daniel onto a bright new conscious and stiff, frame designs. Tati future. Whereas Nói Albinói fulfilled expectations created by Dagur Kári’s short This film is a film, sure, but let’s films, one is tempted to declare that finally contextualize. World cinema: This is a Dagur Kári has exceeded them. Pinocchio sort of love story, full of French New Wave, not merely stylistically but in Voksne mannesker (Dark Horse) is showing spirit. The filmmaker says he’s “nodding at Háskólabíó, with an English-subtitled his head” to a particular Godard film, but screening once a day. both Truffaut and Buñuel are just around the corner, as is Kieslowski in a parallel story running through half the film, Tati Review by Haukur Mar Helgason in the final scene, etc. – cinema history, Gúndi

Radisson with Local History

When I was invited to come check out the new be made from one man’s work space, you’re in good Radisson SAS 1919, I had two immediate replies: 1) company. In addition to their size and full amenities, It’s a Radisson SAS, I think I know what’ll be there; 2) these suites on the fourth floor also contain small Why would a Radisson SAS be interested in what an touches of the original masonry from the building’s alternative paper thinks? But of course I was interested construction in 1919. in seeing 1919, as most locals now refer to it. Built in the old headquarters of Eimskip, the shipping As the tour went on, I met with owner Andri Már company in Iceland that was once the most powerful Ingólfsson, watching him lift carpets and help staff business in the country, it’s an important historical with a range of work that one doesn’t expect a hotel landmark. owner to take part in. It was at that point that I was I entered the hotel the minute it opened, which, told that 1919 is more local than a Radisson: while in grand Icelandic fashion, turned out to be a little Andri Már is partnering with Radisson, the hotel is his before it was ready to open. This turned out to be a project, and he seems to have had a hand in every piece pleasure: seeing a four-plus star hotel with the glitches of its construction, giving the place its local character. of a freshly veneered floor and a few panels being The common spaces and areas closer to the bar and rushed into place is akin to seeing a supermodel with a restaurant Salt were the most approachable for me, and hangover. It has a humanizing affect. the most reminiscent of the styles of city hotels that In fact, when hotel sales manager Gréta have become a part of the social scene in New York Blængsdóttir had trouble with the pass key in one of and Miami in the past few years. the doors, I was amused entirely because I knew this By the end of my tour, the building was ready for would be the last time it would happen. She turned out business, camera crews filming the first man to check to be unflappable, and guided me through effortlessly, in. By the time the cameramen left, the hotel looked as swapping keys with the staff in a sleek handshake, and though it had been open for business for months. With continuing the tour. the local history, the location, and the competence “This won’t be a hotel for just one type of with which this hotel was constructed, the 1919 will people. This is a city hotel, a place where everyone be such an institution, that few will believe it hasn’t is welcome,” she told me as I asked to stop at the always been a key part of the city in a month’s time. stairwell to check out the railings, artisan ironwork in a Celtic-influenced uniquely Icelandic pattern that you Radisson SAS 1919 Hotel, Pósthússtræti 2, 101 can only see at this hotel and at the Culture House on Reykjavík, Iceland. Phone: 599-1000. For more Hverfisgata. information visit www.1919.reykjavik.radissonsas.com. The highlight of a tour for those interested in local history was the fourth floor, particularly rooms 414 and By Bart Cameron 412. These are extremely handsome and roomy suites made out of the former chairman of Eimskip’s office. If you wonder how two large suites for full living could Gúndi Hugleikur recommends the onion soup 47

Lulu Eightball Wulffmorgenthaler

Cartoonists and Graphic Artists Wanted

Underground magazine looking to build an army of artists with interests in comic books. Will pay, but demand a great deal of ? quality work in short time. ? Call 540-3602, or email [email protected] nature preservenature at the edge of the came we There Penninsula. Vatnsnes of course, dozensacross that, of seals but they were that tame, weren’t curious within view. enough to stay the farmhouses were Just as impressive state, almost gothic left in a decayed, For intentionally by the farm owners. a this was an amateur photographer, goldmine. including an ill-advised boat trip seals, exploring A day and following and we began the at an iceberg, to stare famous for four-hour drive to Húsavík, whale watching for a phallological and interrupted were by We museum. cityThe second of Iceland, Akureyri. Akureyri like an authentic more looks Scandinavian hamlet than the capital up to you The Ring Road takes does. a mountainside overlooking Akureyri and Eyjafjörður of the for one Bay vistas that you’ll serene more ever come across. we see a humpback the bay cow over looking for us, impressive More watch them We and her calf in the bay. for a spot off the road a parking from half hour. Húsavík we came the mob At across we picked up our rental jeep at Cheap we picked rental up our Jeeps. about three Hindisvík, our first stop, of we had the photos there From hours north of Reykjavík off of the Reporting for another Ring Road. to I stopped at the home magazine, countrythe tamest seals in the at the Iceland probably merits or two. a photo cover modest rock climbs, three across we come a sheep trail, Following and the road, from about a kilometre find ourselves at a secluded waterfall a glacial river. from camera to try the from have to delete photos to fit in a waterfall shot. We we really shots, hundred In the one didn’t We document that much. didn’t the first casecover of Magic energy given to us by the bottling drink, the did photograph We company. proudly largest oil funnel, world’s in Keflavík next to where displayed We have been driving for three days straight. I have seen seals, seen seals, I have days straight. been driving have for three We sheep giving reindeer, of species of dozens bird, whales, puffins, and I am having waterfalls, heart palpitations lava forests, birth, This is the time to pull over. my twentiethfrom energy drink. Whenever to pull hits you the urge Highway or the Ring Road, on over should you which circles Iceland, One, even slept, haven’t Even if you take it. even have if you dehydrated, if you’re whichis nine to get back to Reykjavík, and edit a large magazine. hours away, and I our only journalist, so Paul, And for a quickpull the north over hike on Vatnajökull. side of the this is so perfect, “Wait, a shot, The hike begins with a camera and the moss waterfalls back are there, Then we near the banks.” is so green getting the and Paul’s walk ten feet, to it doomed You’re camera out again. My only has been to jog solution here. camera, with a well ahead of anyone or evenvideo equipment a pad of they always want to paper and a pen: no but there’s the experience, record appropriate starting or stopping points. Every of countryside metre square in Every Square Metre Merits a Photo: MeritsEvery Metre Square a Photo: on the Ring Road Days Four The Ring Road Ring The Outside Reykjavík

Paul / Grapevine Paul / Grapevine

of Toyota Yarises that were also making the Ring Djúpivogur. There we found the waterfall that finished Road trip and discussed the advantage of the enormous all the available space on the camera, and there we got American-style Suzuki Z-19 SUV that we had rented. the last bit of energy to make the next twelve hours of Yes, we would be paying about twice the gas price, and driving for the southern section of Iceland. our vehicle wasn’t green, but for the day hikes we’d been We made it to Hótel Skaftafell from Húsavík in one taking, the SUV had been helpful—it is against the law day easily, despite our many stops. At Hótel Skaftafell we to leave the road in Iceland, but many gravel roads that poked around to ask about the Batman filming, (nothing come off the highway require more clearance than a Yaris to report: everybody was well-behaved but intense), will provide. then headed out to the largest national park in Europe With four days to do the Ring Road, and personal to at least look over Paul’s favourite waterfalls and to be goals to get as far as possible from civilization, we did reminded our four-day tour of Iceland was ill-advised. right in getting the SUV. Had we been interested in Four days in Skaftafell National Park would be a good stopping by the sites at Mývatn, Húsavík, and the rest of deal more productive, and would require less wasted gas Iceland, had we been touring the country in LESS time, and energy drinks. a Yaris or subcompact would have been a better choice. But we had time and some finance. With a little Along the south of Iceland, we watched the most money and time and a capable SUV, northern Iceland is productive farmland in the country in full early summer an absolute playground. We chose against running out to growth, set against jagged volcanic mountain formations Dettifoss in favour of searching out reindeer, but the tour that are almost always snowcapped. With blind hills and guides we spoke with insisted that a decent SUV can get turns, this is the section of the country that you’re most you to Europe’s most powerful waterfall during the easy likely to hit a sheep at a high speed. Between Skaftafell travelling times, between June and August. and Vík, the bird-watching, even for an amateur, is The four-hour ride from Mývatn to Egilstaðir outstanding. The local eagles and the great skua are provided the most stunning scenery of the journey. The impressive, as are the masses of swans that make their volcanic desert in the north, where the road is, for the homes in the many glacial rivers along the road, the many most part, gravel, has the bleak melancholy beauty that ravens, and the mass of arctic tern, especially at Vík. Henry David Thoreau claimed for Mt. Katahdin—this The last stretch of the journey, from Vík to seems like a place where ancient civilizations must have Reykjavík, was so leisurely, with such gentle slopes, that gotten by stoically. Like the kind of place that encourages we began referring to the area as Iceland’s California a belief in religion or Microsoft Windows or some kind highway. With a vineyard or two, and if we had any WhalesWhales of higher power. feeling in our taste buds after three dozen energy drinks, We broke the drive up here, but had we planned we could have been the cast of Sideways. As it was, we better, we would have searched for a campground. As did our best to make sour faces and act like we were it was, we pulled over to watch reindeer and large dust recovering from a midlife crisis. The depression brought devils alternately until we came upon the surprisingly on by caffeine and guarana withdrawal helped. Puffin Island& thriving and contemporary town of Egilsstaðir. We were happy to find Egilsstaðir well stocked with Take part in an adventure at sea with an energy drinks. Having gone through our case of Magic, unforgettable 3-hour trip from Reykjavík harbour we bought both Egils Orka and Magic, looking for the into the world of whales and sea birds. greatest quantity of caffeine and other legal stimulants/ appetite suppressors—it had been our hope that we By Bart Cameron wouldn’t have to waste time eating during the trip. Daily departures from Reykjavík An hour after Egilsstaðir we found the best day- Suzuki Z-19 provided by Cheap Jeeps, April May June July Aug Sept Oct hike in Iceland, at a small gravel turn-off just before www.geysir.is. Phone: 893-4455. Magic Recovery Energy Drink 9:009:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 9:00 provided by Vífilfell Beverages. 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 17:00 17:00 17:00

Call us now 555 3565 or visit www.elding.is fít • MIXA Paul / Grapevine Elding Whale Watching, Reykjavík, Iceland Icelandic for reindeer is “Hreindýr”, which could Tel: (+354) 555 3565, Fax: (+354) 554 7420 translate as “Clean Animal”. Well, these were not. [email protected], www.elding.is Paul / Grapevine Paul / Grapevine By Bart Cameron . . s . . s www.jokulsarlon.i Rental car provided by Hertz. by Hertz. car provided Rental Phone: 50 50 600. 50 50 600. Phone: www.hertz.i Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, 478-2122. Phone: information at available More as our guide explained, are typically are 1000 than as our guide explained, aged more pieces of and the fact that these monumental years old, the landscape headed out to sea to simply are dissolve adds poignancy to the experience. The guide says into the lagoon, head at all nothing as you too. their cards play right, The Glacier Lagoon group After interest. circling to the driver’s glaciers according beautiful” more “No this one’s twenty minutes of saying which the most bizarre pass in about the passing icebergs, the boat is stopped for a brief of colourings and shapes, by a brief followed taste test of of the lagoon, discussion 1000-year-old ice. but to take in the sites, enough The time is just long is nothing wanting in the forty-minute There tour. the quiet of the tour, And to get… cold. not too long is tasteful and appropriate. with only a brief discussion, up with a cup of coffee and another look- Followed Jökulárlón qualifies as the most the shore, from over galleryrewarding experience in the world. Jökulsárlón Outside Reykjavík Driven by a captain depth-finding and radar with more and led ever life, in your seen than you’ve equipment by a man in a rubber boat who taps at icebergs to check 9/10ths Titanic wisdom, your their depth (remember the boat is safe but the surface), below of icebergs are the skilldepends on of its driver. The icebergs, The formations of ice boggle the mind. completely different. I work in a different setting in a different I work completely different. transplanted former our young Hanna Dís, every day,” Reykjavík bartender guide tells us as we ride through Jökulsárlón vehicle. in a large amphibious in that tourists musts Geysir feel are and Gullfoss, Þingvellir, like Jökulsárlón of the key sites, is one because so these sites are Somehow, visiting Iceland. for locals and even it is not uncommon impressive, to Iceland to avoid the place. people who move I have time. don’t you “Somehow started here. working she our guide had never before been here In fact, she tells me out,” come I didn’t why know really don’t and then turns back at the perfect to look cube of an iceberg floating by and gives a can-you-believe-my-luck smile. to Jökulsárlón about going boasting I would consider four until except times in the two years I’ve lived in Iceland, a boat and I never to get on bothered visit, my recent pushed on The boat tours aren’t truly tour the lagoon. I joined the other Every time I visited in the past, you. and backpackers in the water, out at the boats and stared then tried myself saving money by to convince that I was authentic and probably getting a more staying shore on experience. quite true. Not tour definitely raises the experience a few notches. a boat visit is at Jökulsárlón, As nice as a shoreline The Floating Sculpture Garden Sculpture Floating The Every is the lagoon day “I to work. like coming

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���������� Info Nightlife Nightlife Music & Music Art, 51 Hótel Skaftafell

Christopher Nolan, Liam Neeson and Christian Bale all stayed at Hotel Skaftafell while filming Multi-tasking at Hótel Skaftafell Batman Begins. Southeast Iceland has two gems: the Jökulsárlón glacial The hotel is also in a constant state of expansion. New buildings prices there are reasonable, there aren’t any surprises in the fare. lagoon and the Skaftafell National Park. Both of these sites for sleeping bag accommodation were added during the late Pasta, fish and potatoes, and woefully overcooked lamb fillet are stunningly beautiful; the former for the fantastically 90s, and more rooms are being added on. The ones they already and other standards don’t exactly jump off the menu. However, shaped icebergs floating in sky blue water, and the latter for have, especially in the main building, provide a comfort that is we can highly recommend ordering the trout. It’s fished locally vast expanses of forest and heath kept preserved for centuries. worth the price. (10,500 ISK for a single room with a shower.) and is among the best we’ve tasted so far. Located between these two settings of natural wonder is Hótel Skaftafell. Hótel Skaftafell boasts an international staff who speak English, For travellers who want to explore southeast Iceland, Hótel French, Spanish and German, and the staff are strongly Skaftafell is an excellent choice for those who can afford to pay Built in 1989, Hótel Skaftafell is open year round and aims encouraged by management to take part in the various tourist a little extra – that little bit extra goes a long way. to constantly improve itself. As hotel manager Anna María activities in the area. As Anna María explained, “The more you explained, “I don’t think of it as a hotel alone. We’re also know about the area, the better. When a member of our staff By Paul F Nikolov a guesthouse, a shop, a restaurant, a garage and a tourist recommends a tour or an excursion, you know they’re speaking information centre.” This multi-tasking should come as a relief truly about it.” Hótel Skaftafell on the Ring Road to many travelling through the southwest, as there is little else (1), Four km East of Skaftafell by way of any of these things in the surrounding area. Hótel Skatafell also has a large restaurant, which also doubles as National Park. Phone (+354) a large coffeehouse and place to get in from the rain. While the 478-1945. www.hotelskaftafell.is.

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Chiang Mai is THE CHEAPEST WAY TO the old capital GET TO THAILAND: of the Lanna empire - “the Iceland Express land of a million rice fields” - a Keflavík to London: 2,500-7,200 ISK. 11,000 to 15,000 ISK roundtrip. region whose London to Chiang Mai: architecture, art,

$1500 through British Airways. dress, dialect, London to Bangkok: and cooking is $600 through Aeroflot to $728 through Alitalia. more closely allied with Burma and the mountain hill tribes than with the rest of Thailand. But much of what we cook are classic Thai curries, soups, and stir-fries. These are meals that do not simmer all day over low heat. They are made to order and flash-fried in woks in 15 minutes, making them ideally suited for the kitchen classroom. We’re back at the cooking HQ, armed with our knives and struggling to follow Roong’s preparation of red vendors, such as the workshop that curry with fish (gaeng phed plaa), If You’re Not Smiling, It’s Not Delicious: smashes and grinds whole coconuts which involves our friend from the to make cream and lower-grade market, old snake-head. We look Cooking and Travelling Thailand coconut milk. As we wander from over our bowls of vegetables, meats, stall to stall in the dim, creaky, and spices, and try to individually CHIANG MAI, Thailand - It’s only border, is known as the runner-up In between exploring the and low-ceilinged interior teeming replicate the process as she circulates, the first hour of class, and already city for Thai cuisine, with the added countryside, Westerners often hole with noises, strange cargo, and offering advice on the fly. Rungphit Saisombat is taunting us. benefit of being easier to negotiate up in Chiang Mai to take yoga, unidentifiable fishy smells, I imagine “Okay, just one chilli. Leave out “Here, come and taste my curry. I than the sprawling and frenzied massage, and cooking classes. How I’m a stowaway inside a ramshackle seeds for less spicy,” Roong instructs am still the best,” she says, almost Bangkok. With few high-rises, better to understand the soul of straight-faced. But the corners of this northern crossroads maintains Thailand than through its cuisine? her mouth and her impish, flashing a small-town feel and has rapidly With a lifelong love of food, but eyes let students know that she’s not become a popular hub for more no professional training as cooks, entirely serious about showing us adventuresome tourists shunning we were signed on as students of a who’s boss. the crowded southern beaches. But master chef. Established in 1993 by One by one, we meekly approach after a few days of wandering the Sompon and Elizabeth Nabnian, the her wok with our spoons and take city’s Ping River banks, gawking at Chiang Mai Thai Cookery School a dip. Of course, her curry is better: orange-clad monks and only half was the city’s first. Classes are held I’ve been cooking Thai dishes like understanding what we saw inside on the back terrace of The Wok tom kha gai since only about 5 the warren of alleyways, gates, canals, restaurant; the couple opened the o’clock. and thronging market streets of this school at the urging of their satisfied At 30, “Roong,” our playful 13th-century walled city, we felt too customers. teacher at the Chiang Mai Thai much like observers and not enough The oddity is that the evening Cookery School, has years of like participants in our vacation we tie on our aprons and stand experience. For a native Thai like home. behind our individual cooking her, the tantalizing colours and On principle, my travel stations we discover four of our eight odours of ingredients like chilli philosophy is to cultivate curiosity classmates are gourmands from Paris. peppers, curry paste, and coconut through knowledge and involvement. One, Francoise Meunier, is a food lover well known for giving French ship on a trading mission to a distant one student. “Just a pinch - Thai cuisine classes to tourists. There are land. pinch. Farang pinch salty!” She peers no other Americans. So here we are, How do we know if a snake- over at Isabelle’s simmering broth. 12 “farang” (Thai for “foreigners”) headed fish is fresh, Roong asks “OK, it’s ready. Take it off.” bent over our gas cookers, mortars- us, as the class crowds around the Roong isn’t a stickler for and-pestles, and chopping blocks, fishmonger and his trays of scaly precise measurements, which seems speaking French with one another, flesh, severed heads, and whole fish subversive to students like me who and English with Roong. None of still alive and swirling. “Push a finger treat cookbooks like holy texts. She us knows any Thai beyond “ hello,” into the filet. If it springs back, it’s dumps some coconut cream into one “ how much?” “ thank you,” and a good,” she pronounces. of her concoctions, exclaims “and a particularly useful phrase to show We learn to differentiate jasmine little more for good luck!” and adds a your pleasure after eating well: “ rice from sticky rice, purple basil second blob. For Roong, as for most aroi maak maak” (very delicious). from sweet basil, and Thai from Thais, the concept of sanuk, or “fun,” Another necessary expression is “mai Burmese garlic. Roong shows us jars is paramount, and should infiltrate pet,” which means not spicy, though of pickled whole crab, stacks of dried every activity. a Thai’s interpretation of “not” may fish, piles of mushrooms, bags of “If you not sure how hot oil, still make you swelter. dried spices, vats of tofu, bottles of put in finger,” Roong jokes. But I’m “If you like really mild,” Roong fish sauce. Made from roasted dried gullible enough that I begin moving says, “ask for ‘farang spicy.”” spices and fresh ingredients, red, my hand toward my wok before milk, and the sizzling sounds they I don’t feel proud when the extent ‘Small but dangerous’ green, and yellow curry pastes have Isabelle slaps it away. When the last make as they alchemize in a fiery of my interaction with a destination been pulverized and cured in hot student has slid the final chicken pan, are second nature. To us, they’re includes purchasing ceramic Our course includes a tour of the oil to preserve them. We role-play in coconut milk (tom kha gai) out as exotic as an elephant ride through knickknacks and snapping photos on Sompet Market, not far from the a rice paddy at sunrise. a first class breeze-through of A-list cooking school on the east side of “Don’t forget to sites, leaving the locals behind in a the old city. We take a “songthaew” smiling,” Roong reminds us. “If cloud of dust. So, instead of taking a (one of the red pickup trucks that you not smiling, it’s not delicious!” luxury air-conditioned tourist bus out serve as communal taxis) and pile out Immediately after we had arrived of Chiang Mai into the mountain like Western produce arriving at the in Chiang Mai, my wife, Isabelle, valley towns of Mae Hong Son and market. Here we are introduced to and I had fallen in love with the Pai, where hiking and mountain the building blocks of Thai cooking: inexpensive, inescapable local cuisine biking trails lead to hill tribe villages lemongrass, coriander, kaffir lime - and not only the fancier food from and rivers ideal for rafting, we tried and leaf, garlic (two varieties), basil restaurants, but also the informal the rickety local transportation (three), palm sugar, fermented fish noodle shops with plastic tables swirling up and up, and were greatly and shrimp pastes, and galangal spilling onto the sidewalk, and the rewarded. Like, for instance, that (Siamese ginger). endless snacks sold from carts and sleepy pit-stop village at the road’s “Kaffir lime, for soups,” Roong mobile stands on every street corner. zenith that sold incredible steamed begins, then delivers the punchline, Chiang Mai, population 250,000 dumplings stuffed with chicken and “or for making dandruff shampoo!” about 90 miles from the Burmese mushrooms or peanuts and taro root. Roong leads us to her favourite THAILAND 53 of the wok into a bowl, the group early exploring around Chiang Mai. dines together. Roong brings out It’s not hard to get hungry: We soon our steamed banana cakes (khanom learn that an afternoon of haggling kluay) plus trays of Asian fruits to with songthaew drivers and visiting try, including a sliced durian, spiky “wats” (Buddhist temple complexes) like a hedgehog on the outside, can work up an appetite. But like smelly butter-almond flesh within, in a lot of far-flung destinations, and several red and hairy rambutans, in Chiang Mai it’s easy to see the which would be as at home on a segregation between the farang and coral reef as on a fruit tree. local hangouts. Inauthentic dining “Yellow inside, good for eating. experiences abound, especially White inside, good for salad som at places with menus in English, tam,” Roong says, pointing at a Japanese, German, and French sliced papaya. “Peel your banana in that cater specifically to tourists. four peels. If you peel three, you’re a Fortunately, most of what you see monkey.” for sale on the street, where the At meal’s end, it’s 9 o’clock. We average Thai eats, is perfectly safe for take the obligatory group photo, Western stomachs. Whether you’d some students exchange e-mail want to pop some of these snacks addresses, and Roong hands out in your mouth for a late-afternoon copies of the school’s cookbook, pick-me-up is another issue. detailing every recipe should we dare try this at home. school. I struggle to not pass judgment based on Western Having learned more about local PRODUCE AT THE SOURCE standards or what I now know about Thai food. I realize flavours and tried our hands behind An alternate food-related activity we discover is a Ping I would need more eating and more cooking before I the wok, we feel better equipped to River boat cruise. One outfit offers a longtail boat trip could do that. sample what had tempted us in our that departs south of the city center and heads upstream for a two-hour ride. The Ping is slow-moving, and Ethan Gilsdorf is a travel writer and poet who has been especially tranquil just 15 minutes out, where the city featured in the Boston Globe and the Washington Post. He falls behind and the riverbanks reveal subsistence farmers last wrote for the Grapevine on the Hiking the Scottish and fishing families living in bamboo huts on stilts. The Highlands. boat’s destination: a vegetable, fruit, and herb garden where you can taste fresh jackfruit and see kaffir limes What to do: growing on the tree. It’s instructive to see the produce Chiang Mai Thai Cookery School as living and developing, not simply piled in markets as 1-3 Moonmuang Road, opposite Tha Phae Gate harvest or sliced and fried for the restaurant table. For 011-66-53-206388 the ultimate food and culture combination, a few days Fax: 011-66-53-206387 later we try the Old Chiang Mai Cultural Centre, the www.thaicookeryschool.com. city’s most authentic khan toke dinner-theater show. Open Monday-Saturday, 8:30 a.m.-6 p.m.; Sunday 9- The evening begins with a traditional meal, served on 6. About $20/day for a five- to six-hour class (10 a.m.-4 a three-legged teak or rattan table called a “khan toke.” p.m. or 4-9 p.m.). Price includes food, drinks, cookbook, Our shoes are off and we sit on mats before the outdoor transportation. Early booking is essential during high season. stage. Then, the trays of pumpkin fritters, fried chicken, River cruises stir-fried cabbage, sticky rice, and hangleh (Burmese Behind Wat Chaimongkhon on Thanon Charoen Prathet pork curry) arrive. About midway through the meal, a 011-66-53-274822 Daily 8:30 a.m.-5 p.m.; $7 with classical orchestra plays while dancers perform northern garden tour and refreshments. Dinner cruises 7:15-9 p.m., set Thai steps, like a solo sword dance, a group depicting FIRST LESSON: START SLOWLY menu, $9.25. villagers reeling silk, and the slow and stately “fingernail Here’s what I did learn from my head-first eating experiences. First, if you’re Old Chiang Mai dance.” serious about street food in Thailand, it’s best to break in your stomach slowly Cultural Centre After the food is gone, we move to a smaller theatre by eating small amounts of fresh fruit and spicy foods at the start of your trip. 1853 Thanon Wualai to see performances from the Lahu, Hmong, Mien, It’s also wise to always stick to bottled water and stay away from ice. The 011-66-53-202993-5 Lisu, and Akha hill tribes. Their bright costumes and cheap prices - a basic plate of pad thai fried noodles usually runs a whopping www.oldchiangmai.com eerie pipe sounds add an inexplicable flavor to the $1 - may encourage a dangerous all-you-can-eat streak. But new flavours, Open nightly 7-10 p.m.; $6.25 for northern Thai khan toke evening, and I think back to the dinner I just consumed. ingredients, and microbes require some getting used to. After a few days and hill-tribe performances, including dinner. The food surprised me; it was dull-coloured and less you’ll be ready to tackle the more mysterious local specialities. (I never did Call to reserve. work up the courage to practice what I preach by “participating” in the crispy palatable compared with what we had prepared in By Ethan Gilsdorf insect fritters, though.) Second, I became wary of Western-style restaurants, which may rely on imported ingredients and refrigeration. (One of Chiang Mai’s oddest must be Bierstube, which serves German beer and schnitzel alongside Thai favourites.) We know someone who ate a poorly-frozen chicken burger and was laid up for three days with serious diarrhoea and a fever. When you’re ready to dive into the diverse dining scene of Chiang Mai, Heuan Sontharee is an enchanting first stop. Here you’ll find regular Thais alongside a scant supply of farang, all enjoying northern delicacies like nam, which are strong pork, rice, and garlic sausages, and steamed Ping River fish in fermented sauces. Local celebrity and folk singer Sontharee Wechanon owns the multi- tiered riverfront establishment on the town’s northern outskirts. Glowing lights and haunting traditional Thai music make for a memorable evening.

It’s here that I notice the irony of my diehard travel mantra. In their effort GEIMSTOFAN.IS DESIGN: to blend in, the foreigners wear the vivid, hand-woven jackets and sarongs of the mountain folk. But the locals have long since shed their traditional attire, preferring Western dress shoes and button-down shirts. In the same neighbourhood is Khao Soi Samoe Jai, where natives outnumber the brave farang 20 to 1 and no-nonsense waiters serve up some of the city’s best khao soi (egg noodles with meat in a curried coconut soup) and satay (grilled meats). Rumor is, the chef was once noodle maker to the king. Heuan Phen, in the centre of the old city, is also little known to tourists. An informal street-side eatery during the day, it has a suite of antique-decorated rooms open only in the evening. Just thinking now of their local dishes like laap khua (minced-meat salad) makes us miss Chiang Mai.

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