Process–Response Coastal Bluff Recession Model, Application to Holderness Coast (Uk)
33rd Conference on Coastal Engineering 2012
Santander, Spain
1-6 July 2012
Volume 1 of 5
Editors:
Patrick Lynett Jane McKee Smith
ISBN: 978-1-62993-122-7 Printed from e-media with permission by:
Curran Associates, Inc. 57 Morehouse Lane Red Hook, NY 12571
Some format issues inherent in the e-media version may also appear in this print version.
Copyright© (2012) by International Conference on Coastal Engineering (ICCE) All rights reserved.
Printed by Curran Associates, Inc. (2013)
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Curran Associates, Inc. 57 Morehouse Lane Red Hook, NY 12571 USA Phone: 845-758-0400 Fax: 845-758-2634 Email: [email protected] Web: www.proceedings.com TABLE OF CONTENTS
Volume 1
PROCESS–RESPONSE COASTAL BLUFF RECESSION MODEL, APPLICATION TO HOLDERNESS COAST (UK)...... 1 Ricardo Castedo, Carlos Paredes, William Murphy, James Lawrence
SUBHARMONIC GENERATION OF TRANSVERSE OSCILLATIONS INDUCED BY INCIDENT REGULAR WAVES...... 2 Gang Wang, Jin-Hai Zheng
SUITABILITY INDEX FOR COASTAL ENVIRONMENT RESTORATION IN ENCLOSED BAY -EFFECT OF HYPOXIC WATER AND WATER TEMPERATURE ON FISH IN TOKYO BAY, JAPAN- ...... 11 Takehito Horie, Tomonari Okada, Akira Watanuki
TWEED RIVER ENTRANCE AND BYPASS SEDIMENT DYNAMICS...... 12 Ron Cox, Dan Howe
INNOVATIVE BREAKWATERS DESIGN FOR WAVE ENERGY CONVERSION ...... 20 D. Vicinanza, D. Stagonas, G. Müller, J. H. Nørgaard, T. L. Andersen
ADAPTATION OF EXISTING BREAKWATERS TO SEA LEVEL RISE – OVERTOPPING EFFECT ...... 32 Dang Trinh Nguyen, Jérôme Brossard
WAVE STATISTICS AND SPECTRAL ANALYSIS IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA (I.E. SICILY CHANNEL): 9 YEARS OF WAVE DATA MONITORING ...... 43 E. Terrile, G. De Filippi, O. Spadaccini
DRAG COEFFICIENT OF VEGETATION IN FLOW MODELING...... 44 Z. Hu, M. J. F. Stive, T. J. Zitman, T. Suzuki
COASTAL ADAPTION IN THE DEVELOPING WORLD ...... 45 Maril Geldenhuys, Mathij Van Ledden, Bas Jonkman, Marcel Stive, Rosh Ranasinghe
DETECTION OF SHIP PATHS ON DOCKING AND QUAY OCCUPATION ANALYSIS BASED ON A VIDEO- IMAGERY SYSTEM AS SUPPORT TO PORT MANAGEMENT ...... 46 Rebeca Gómez, Rafael Molina, Alberto Camerero, Francisco De Los Santos
RECENT TSUNAMIS OBSERVED BY GPS BUOYS OFF THE PACIFIC COAST OF JAPAN ...... 47 Hiroyasu Kawai, Makoto Satoh, Koji Kawaguchi, Katsumi Seki
OPEN BOUNDARY CONDITIONS FOR FORCED WIND WAVES IN A COUPLED MODEL OF TIDE, SURGE AND WAVE ...... 62 S. Y. Kim, Y. Matsumi, T. Yasuda, H. Mase
A NEW METHOD OF APPROACHING EXTREME STORM EVENTS FOR DESIGN LEVEL OR RISK ANALYSIS...... 63 Gabriele Goennert, Birgit Gerkensmeier
FIELD INVESTIGATION OF SIZE DISTRIBUTION OF SUSPENDED SEDIMENT USING LISST-100 ...... 76 Yoshiaki Kuriyama, Takayuki Suzuki, Shin-Ichi Yanagishima, Ken-Ichi Uzaki, Yoshio Ishino, Hikari Sakamoto
MODEL FOR PREDICTING BEACH CHANGES USING CELLULAR AUTOMATON METHOD...... 87 M. Endo, A. Kobayashi, T. Uda, M. Serizawa, Y. Noshi
COASTAL EROSION MANAGEMENT AT YUCATAN, MEXICO: ENGINEERING EFFORTS AND EXPERIENCES...... 88 Mariana González Leija, Sergio Eb, Enrique Álvarez, Alfonso Solís, Carlos Wabi
LONG TERM BEACH EROSION: MORPHODYNAMIC CASE STUDY IN MONT-ROIG BEACH, SPAIN ...... 89 Jordi Galofré, Dolores Ortiz, Raúl Medina
PRELIMINARY DESIGN OF DECISION SUPPORT SYSTEM FOR CHINESE SEADIKE SAFETY MANAGEMENT...... 102 Qihua Zuo, Zhengping Zhou, Chi Wang, Feng Sun, Hongchuan Wang
OPTIMIZATION OF THE WAVECAT WAVE ENERGY CONVERTER ...... 109 H. Fernández, G. Iglesias, R. Carballo, A. Castro, M. Sánchez, F. Taveira-Pinto
WHEN DO WAVES BECOME TURBULENT?...... 117 José Beyá, William Peirson, Michael Banner
MULTI-ENSEMBLE PROJECTION OF FUTURE COASTAL CLIMATE CHANGE...... 118 Nobuhito Mori, Tomoya Shimura, Sota Nakajo, Tomohiro Yasuda, Hajime Mase
FIELD OBSERVATIONS OF SHORELINE CHANGE BY FREQUENCY-BANDED WAVE ENERGY FLUX AND FORESHORE SHAPE...... 129 Takayuki Suzuki, Yoshiaki Kuriyama
MORPHODYNAMIC OF BEACH SCARPS ON A MACROTIDAL COAST DURING EXCEPTIONAL WATER LEVEL EVENTS (NORMANDY, FRANCE)...... 130 Yoann Bonte, Franck Levoy
COMBINING COASTAL DESIGN-FLOOD ELEVATIONS AND SEA LEVEL RISE PROJECTIONS...... 131 James Houston
MORPHODYNAMICS OF A CARIBBEAN BEACH FRINGED BY A CORAL REEF...... 137 Amaia Ruiz De Alegria-Arzaburu, Ismael Mariño-Tapia, Cecilia Enriquez, Rodolfo Silva-Casarín, Mariana González-Leija
NEW BOUSSINESQ SYSTEM FOR NONLINEAR WATER WAVES...... 146 Yao Zhang, Andrew Kennedy, Joannes J. Westerink, Nishant Panda, Clint Dawson
APPLICATION OF A NEW SAND TRANSPORT FORMULA WITHIN THE CROSS-SHORE MORPHODYNAMIC MODEL UNIBEST-TC...... 157 Jebbe Van Der Werf, Harm Nomden, Jan Ribberink, Dirk-Jan Walstra, Wouter Kranenburg
MEASUREMENT AND MODELING OF SOLITARY WAVE INDUCED BED SHEAR STRESS OVER A ROUGH BED...... 172 Jaya Kumar Seelam, Tom. E. Baldock
LABORATORY MEASUREMENTS OF A STEADY BREAKER USING PIV AND BIV ...... 187 Chang Lin, Shih-Chun Hsieh, I-Ju Lin, Kuang-An Chang, Rajkumar Raikar
THE BRANCHING CHANNEL NETWORK IN THE YANGTZE ESTUARY...... 196 Z. B. Wang, P. X. Ding
OPEN TYPE QUAY STRUCTURES UNDER PROPELLER JETS...... 208 Yalcin Yuksel, Selahattin Kayhan, Yesim Celikoglu, Kubilay Cihan
BREAKS AND LONG TERM TRENDS OF TIDAL CHARACTERISTICS IN THE SOUTHERN GERMAN BIGHT ...... 220 Sabine Jenning, Hartmut Hein, Stephan Mai, Holger Schüttrumpf
EFFICIENCY OF TIDAL TURBINE FARMS ...... 228 Colin Christian, Ross Vennel
AN INTEGRATED MODELING APPROACH FOR SIMULATING OIL SPILL AT THE STRAIT OF BOHAI SEA...... 238 Jinhua Wang, Jinshan Zhang
DAMAGE ALONG COASTS IN SENDAI BAY CAUSED BY THE 2011 GREAT TSUNAMI ...... 247 Kazuya Sakai, Takaaki Uda, Toshiro San-Nami, Tatsuya Shimizu
LONG TERM EVOLUTION OF BALTIC SEA SANDY BEACH FORCED BY WINTER NORTH ATLANTIC OSCILLATION (NAOWI)...... 262 Grzegorz Rózynski, Piotr Szmytkiewicz
ON MOORING DESIGN OF WAVE ENERGY CONVERTERS: THE SEABREATH APPLICATION...... 272 Luca Martinelli, Piero Ruol, Giampaolo Cortellazzo
SEABED INSTABILITY AROUND CAISSON BREAKWATERS ...... 284 Gerardo Duran, Juan M. Mayoral, Edgar Mendoza, Rodolfo Silva
THREE-DIMENSIONAL STRUCTURE OF WIND-DRIVEN CURRENTS ACCOMPANIED WITH SECONDARY CIRCULATIONS AND THEIR EFFECTS ON THE THERMAL STRUCTURE OF LAKES AND OCEANS...... 285 Ken-Ichi Uzaki, Koji Ide, Yosuke Araki, Shinya Horiguchi
BOUSSINESQ TYPE MODELLING OF STORM SURGES...... 286 Sébastien De Brye, Rodolfo Silva, Edgar Mendoza
TIDAL WAVE REFLECTION FROM THE CLOSURE DAM IN THE GUADALQUIVIR ESTUARY (SW SPAIN)...... 287 Manuel Díez-Minguito, Asunción Baquerizo, Miguel Ortega-Sánchez, Inmaculada Ruiz, Miguel. Á. Losada
MODELLING WAVE TRANSFORMATION ACROSS A FRINGING REEF USING SWASH...... 295 Marcel Zijlema
WAVE HEIGHTS RECOVERY FROM SUBSURFACE PRESSURES UPON A SMALL VERTICAL CYLINDER...... 307 Tri Cao Mai, Torsten Schlurmann
EVALUATION OF SEAGRASS AS A WAVE ENERGY DISSIPATION ELEMENT...... 308 Edgar Mendoza, Jose Hoil, Rodolfo Silva, Cecilia Enriquez
WKB APPROXIMATION TO THE MODIFIED MILD-SLOPE EQUATION...... 309 Seung-Nam Seo
TSUNAMI DAMAGES OF NAKOSO COAST DUE TO THE 2011 TOHOKU TSUNAMI ...... 320 Shinji Sato, Haijiang Liu, Satoshi Takewaka, Hisamichi Nobuoka, Shin-Ichi Aoki
SIMULATION OF EXTREME WAVE INTERACTION WITH MONOPILE MOUNTS FOR OFFSHORE WIND TURBINES ...... 335 Feng Gao, Clive Mingham, Derek Causon
MODELLING THE FINITE AMPLITUDE DYNAMICS OF TIDAL SAND WAVES WITH SWASH ...... 344 T. Van Oyen, T. Suzuki , M. Zijlema, P. Rauwoens, P. Troch
NUMERICAL AND EXPERIMENTAL STUDY OF DAM-BREAK FLOOD PROPAGATION AND ITS IMPLICATION TO SEDIMENT EROSION ...... 345 Hung-Chu Hsu, A. Torres-Freyermuth, Tian-Jian Hsu, Hwung-Hweng Hwung
LONG-TERM NEARSHORE BATHYMETRY EVOLUTION FROM VIDEO IMAGERY: A CASE STUDY IN THE MIYAZAKI COAST ...... 357 Haijiang Liu, Makoto Arii, Shinji Sato, Yoshimitsu Tajima
ANALYSIS OF WAVE INTERACTION WITH SUBMERGED ADJACENT PORO-ELASTIC BREAKWATERS...... 372 Yuan-Jyh Lan, Tai-Wen Hsu, Ching-Yu Chen
STABILITY PREDICTION ON ARMOR BLOCKS FOR SUBMERGED BREAKWATER BY COMPUTATIONAL FLUID DYNAMICS...... 387 Akira Matsumoto, Akira Mano, Jun Mitsui, Minoru Hanzawa
MEASUREMENTS OF VORTEX GENERATION AND MOTION AT WIND WAVE SURFACES ...... 401 Kohsei Takehara, T. Goji Etoh, Yasuhide Takano, Gozo Tsujimoto
STABILITY OF WAVE-DISSIPATING CONCRETE BLOCKS OF DEACHED BREAKWATERS AGAINST TSUNAMI ...... 412 Minoru Hanzawa, Akira Matsumoto, Hitoshi Tanaka
STABILITY OF HARDLY RESHAPING BERM BREAKWATERS ...... 424 T. Lykke Andersen, J. W. Van Der Meer, H. F. Burcharth, S. Sigurdarson
WAVE TRANSFORMATION PATTERNS AT A NON-TIDAL, DISSIPATIVE BEACH ...... 435 Antonios Valsamidis, Grzegorz Rózynski, Dominic Reeve
DREDGING OPTIMIZATION OF AN INLET SYSTEM FOR ADJACENT SHORE PROTECTION PROJECTS USING CMS AND GENCADE...... 436 Tanya M. Beck, Kelly R. Legault
SPREADINGOF BRINE DISCHARGED INTOTHE PUCKBAY(SOUTHBALTIC SEA): THEORETICALSTUDYVERSUS FIELD OBSERVATIONS ...... 450 Malgorzata Robakiewicz
APPLYING PIV MEASUREMENTS ON FLOW FIELD OF WAVES PROPAGATING OVER A SINGLE SUBMERGED POROUS ELASTIC BREAKWATER ...... 451 Tai-Wen Hsu, Yuan-Jyh Lan, Jian-Wu Lai, Yung-Han Cheng, Shan-Hwei Ou
PREDICTION OF BEACH EROSION CAUSED BY REDUCTION OF FLUVIAL SAND SUPPLY DUE TO EXCESS SAND MINING AND BEACH RECOVERY AFTER PROHIBITION OF MINING ...... 463 Toshiro San-Nami, Takaaki Uda, Norikazu Ohashi, Hitoshi Iwamoto, Masumi Serizawa, Toshinori Ishikawa, Shiho Miyahara
AN ANALYSIS OF CROSS-SHORE PROFILE EVOLUTION OF A SAND AND A COMPOSITE SAND- GRAVEL BEACHES...... 474 Harshinie Karunarathna, Jose Horrillo-Caraballo, Roshanka Ranasinghe, Andrew Short, Dominic Reeve
PROBABILITY OF EXCEEDING THE CRITICAL SHEAR STRESS FOR SAND MOTION IN SPECIFIC WAVE AND CURRENT CONDITIONS ...... 486 Pierre-Yves Henry, Alf Tørum, Øivind Arntsen, Dag Myrhaug, Muk Chen Ong
BOUSSINESQ-TYPE EQUATIONS WITH VARIABLE COEFFICIENTS FOR NARROW-BANDED WAVE PROPAGATION FROM ARBITRARY DEPTHS TO SHALLOW WATERS...... 493 Gonzalo Simarro, Alvaro Galan, Alejandro Orfila
CENTURY-SCALE SHORELINE CHANGES OF FIVE BEACHES IN JAPAN ...... 500 Jun Yoshida, Keiko Udo, Yuriko Takeda, Akira Mano
EXPERIMENTAL STUDY ON THE DISCHARGE CHARACTERISTICS OF SLUICE FOR TIDAL POWER PLANT...... 511 Sang-Ho Oh, Kwang Soo Lee, Dal Soo Lee
CURRENT CHARACTERISTICS IN THE PRESENCE OF NEAR-ORTHOGONAL WAVES ...... 519 Kian Yew Lim, Ole Secher Madsen, Hin Fatt Cheong
COASTAL DEFENCE EVALUATION: AN SPRC APPROACH ...... 533 Dominic E. Reeve, Jose M. Horrillo-Caraballo, Andrew Fox, Dave Simmonds, Sum H. Kwan, Shunqi Pan, Deborah Greaves
EXPERIMENTAL STUDY OF TURBULENT OSCILLATORY BOUNDARY LAYERS IN A NEW OSCILLATORY WATER TUNNEL ...... 541 Jing Yuan, Ole Secher Madsen, Eng Soon Chan
NUMERICAL SIMULATION STUDY ON DEPOSITION DOWNSTREAM ESTUARINE SLUICE ...... 553 Xiping Dou, Xinzhou Zhang, Xiangming Wang, Jinhua Wang
STUDY ON INFLUENCE OF BAIMAO SANDBANK CONTROL PROJECT IN SOUTHERN BRANCH OF THE YANGTZE RIVER ESTUARY, CHINA ...... 561 Xinzhou Zhang, Xiping Dou, Jinshan Zhang
CIRCULATION PATTERNS AND SHORELINE RESPONSE INDUCED BY SUBMERGED BREAKWATERS ...... 567 Mara Villani, Judith Bosboom, Marcel Zijlema, Marcel J. F. Stive
TIME-DEPENDENT PERFORMANCE-BASED DESIGN OF CAISSON BREAKWATER CONSIDERING CLIMATE CHANGE IMPACTS...... 578 Seung-Woo Kim, Kyung-Duck Suh
MOVING GRAVEL BODY METHOD TO CONTROL DOWNCOAST EROSION...... 589 Toshinori Ishikawa, Takaaki Uda, Shiho Miyahara
A STUDY OF ADAPTATION CAPACITY OF COASTAL DISASTERS DUE TO CLIMATE CHANGE IN ORDER TO STRENGTHEN SOUTHWEST AREA OF TAIWAN...... 603 Hsiang-Lan Juan, Tai-Wen Hsu, Yuan-Jyh Lan, Yue-Chen Lin, Ching-Jer Huang
TEMPORAL AND SPATIAL EVOLUTION OF EXTREME EVENTS...... 618 Jacco Groeneweg, Sofia Caires, Kathryn Roscoe
POT METHODS: A NEW INSIGHT INTO THE ESTIMATION OF EXTREME VALUE DISTRIBUTIONS – APPLICATION TO EXTREME WAVE HEIGHTS...... 633 Franck Mazas, Luc Hamm, Philippe Garat
EFFECTS OF TIDE ON WAVES IN THE OUTER SEINE ESTUARY AND THE HARBOR OF LE HAVRE ...... 634 Nicolas Guillou, Georges Chapalain
WAVE HEIGHT DISTRIBUTION IN CONSTANT AND FINITE DEPTHS...... 646 Sofia Caires, Marcel R. A. Van Gent
APPLICATION OF A SEMIEMPIRICAL LONGSHORE TRANSPORT FORMULATION ...... 660 G. Barbaro, G. R. Tomasicchio, G. Malara, F. D'Alessandro
MODELLING EXTREME WAVE EVENTS (PRESENT AND FUTURE SCENARIOS) IN SOUTHWEST ENGLAND ...... 661 Jose M. Horrillo-Caraballo, Shunqi Pan, Dominic E. Reeve, Dave Simmonds, Deborah Greaves, Andrew Fox
OFFSHORE SAND DISCHARGE CAUSED BY CONSTRUCTING COASTAL STRUCTURES ON A STEEP COAST WITH A LARGE SHORELINE CURVATURE...... 670 Shiho Miyahara, Takaaki Uda, Masumi Serizawa, Shusuke Watanabe
PREDICTION OF BEACH CHANGES AROUND ARTIFICIAL REEF USING BG MODEL...... 681 Hiroaki Fujiwara, Takaaki Uda, Toshiaki Onishi, Shiho Miyahara, Masumi Serizawa
NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF THREE-DIMENSIONAL SEGMENTATION OF ELONGATED WATER BODY USING BG MODEL...... 693 Takaaki Uda, Masumi Serizawa, Shiho Miyahara
PREDICTION OF DEVELOPMENT OF SAND SPITS AND CUSPATE FORELANDS WITH RHYTHMIC SHAPES CAUSED BY SHORELINE INSTABILITY USING BG MODEL ...... 703 Masumi Serizawa, Takaaki Uda, Shiho Miyahara
COMPUTER SIMULATION OF MOORED SHIP MOTION INDUCED BY HARBOR RESONANCE IN POHANG NEW HARBOR ...... 714 Moonsu Kwak, Yongho Moon, Chongkun Pyun
EROSION AND ACCRETION ON CURVED BEACH...... 726 Kideok Do, Nobuhisa Kobayashi, Kyung-Duck Suh
A COASTAL AREA MODEL CONSIDERING WAVE-CURRENT INTERACTION AND ITS APPLICATION TO WIDE-CRESTED SUBMERGED BREAKWATER ...... 738 Masamitsu Kuroiwa, Ahmed Khaled Seif, Yuhei Matsubara, Yasushi Ichimura, Hajime Mase, Mazen Abualtayef
COASTAL FLOODING RISK AND ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE IN BELGIUM ...... 750 Toon Verwaest, Sebastian Dan, Johan Reyns, Ellen Meire, Tina Mertens, Stefaan Gysens
EXTERNAL AND INTERNAL WAVE SET-UP AT POROUS PBA REVETMENTS ON A SAND FOUNDATION...... 751 Gisa Foyer, Hocine Oumeraci
THREE-DIMENSIONAL MORPHODYNAMIC MODEL TO SANDY BEACH WITH NON-ERODED HARD BOTTOM ...... 764 Yukihiko Hasegawa, Masamitsu Kuroiwa, Yuhei Matsubara, Yasushi Icimura, Yoshiyuki Nagaishi
THE EFFECT OF EMBANKMENT CREST WIDTH ON COMBINED OVERFLOW AND WAVE OVERTOPPING ...... 775 David K. Jones, Dominic E. Reeve, Qingping Zou
MODELING BEACH PROFILE EVOLUTION – A STATISTICAL–PROCESS BASED APPROACH ...... 782 Douglas Pender, Harshinie Karunarathna
COMPARISON OF SEDIMENT TRANSPORT MODELS WITH IN-SITU SAND FLUX MEASUREMENTS AND BEACH MORPHODYNAMIC EVOLUTION ...... 792 Cartier Adrien, Larroudé Philippe, Héquette Arnaud
SPH MODEL TO SIMULATE MOVEMENT OF GRASS MEADOW OF POSIDONIA UNDER WAVES...... 802 Thibault Oudart, Philippe Larroudé
THE EXPANSION OF THE PORT OF HANSTHOLM – THE FUTURE CONDITIONS FOR A BYPASS HARBOUR...... 814 Bo Brahtz Christensen, Rolf Deigaard, Ida Brøker, Kasper Kærgaard, Asger Bendix Hansen, Nils Drønen, Anders Helkjær, Helge Gravesen
SCHMIDT NUMBER OF SAND SUSPENSIONS UNDER OSCILLATING GRID TURBULENCE ...... 827 Daniel Buscombe, Daniel C. Conley
PLACEMENT OF CUBIPOD ARMOR UNITS IN SAN ANDRÉS BREAKWATER (PORT OF MALAGA, SPAIN)...... 838 Antonio Corredor, Moisés Santos, M. Esther Gómez-Martín, Josep R. Medina
ON THE TWO STEP THRESHOLD SELECTION FOR OVER-THRESHOLD MODELLING...... 846 Pietro Bernardara, Franck Mazas, Jérôme Weiss, Marc Andreewsky, Xavier Kergadallan, Michel Benoît, Luc Hamm
THE INFLUENCE OF THE TURBULENCE CLOSURE MODEL ON WAVE-CURRENT INTERACTION MODELING AT A LOCAL SCALE ...... 852 Maria João Teles, António Pires-Silva, Michel Benoit
KD AND SAFETY FACTORS OF CONCRETE ARMOR UNITS...... 864 Josep R. Medina, M. Esther Gómez-Martín
NONLINEAR OBLIQUE INTERACTION OF LARGE AMPLITUDE INTERNAL SOLITARY WAVES...... 873 Keisuke Nakayama, Taro Kakinuma, Hidekazu Tsuji, Masayuki Oikawa
A 3D SEDIMENT TRANSPORT MODEL FOR COMBINED WAVE-CURRENT FLOWS ...... 879 Peifeng Ma, Ole Secher Madsen
APPLICATION OF VIDEO IMAGES FOR MONITORING COASTAL ZONE IN HASAKI BEACH, JAPAN ...... 893 Muhammad Zikra, Noriaki Hashimoto, Masaru Yamashiro, Masaki Yokota, Kojiro Suzuki
STUDY ON DRIFT BEHAVIOR OF CONTAINER ON APRON DUE TO TSUNAMI-INDUCED INCOMING AND RETURN FLOW ...... 906 Tomoaki Nakamura, Norimi Mizutani, Yasuhiro Wakamatsu
SOLITARY WAVE INTERACTION WITH A SUBMERGED PERMEABLE BREAKWATER: EXPERIMENT AND NUMERICAL MODELING ...... 915 Yun-Ta Wu, Shih-Chun Hsiao, Guan-Shiue Chen
THE INFLUENCE OF CALCARENITE LIMESTONE REEFS ON BEACH EROSION AND RECOVERY, FROM SECONDS TO YEARS ...... 929 Shari L. Gallop, Cyprien Bosserelle, Charitha B. Pattiaratchi, Ian Eliot, Ivan D. Haigh
GRANULAR OPEN FILTERS ON A HORIZONTAL BED UNDER WAVE AND CURRENT LOADING ...... 944 Guido Wolters, Marcel R. A. Van Gent
Volume 2
THE USE OF SPATIAL RADAR OBSERVATIONS IN WAVE HINDCASTS...... 954 Caroline Gautier, Jacco Groeneweg
DISPLACEMENT OF MONOLITHIC RUBBLE-MOUND BREAKWATER CROWN-WALLS ...... 966 Jørgen Quvang Harck Nørgaard, Lars Vabbersgaard Andersen, Thomas Lykke Andersen, Hans F. Burcharth
CHARACTERISTICS OF OXYGEN CONSUMPTION BY SEDIMENT UNDER HYPOXIC CONDITION IN ENCLOSED COASTAL SEAS...... 981 Toru Endo, Takaaki Shigematsu, Keisuke Mizuta
NUMERICAL ANALYSES AND EXPERIMENTS OF DEFORMABLE RUBBER MEMBRANE PARAPETS...... 982 Insik Chun, Sunsin Kim, Janghee Ko, Woosun Park
USE OF DIGITAL HOLOGRAPHIC CAMERAS TO EXAMINE THE MEASUREMENT AND UNDERSTANDING OF SEDIMENT SUSPENSION IN THE NEARSHORE ...... 990 Daniel C. Conley, Daniel Buscombe, W. Alex M. Nimmo-Smith
UPLIFT FORCES ON WAVE EXPOSED JETTIES: SCALE COMPARISON AND EFFECT OF VENTING...... 1001 M. Gabriella Gaeta, Luca Martinelli, Alberto Lamberti
A LONG-TERM EQUILIBRIUM BEACH PLANFORM MODEL FOR COASTAL WORK DESIGN...... 1011 Verónica Cánovas, Raúl Medina
BEHAVIOR OF THE BEACHES ON THE NORTH OF SPAIN IS GLOBAL WARMING INVOLVED?...... 1015 Antonio Lechuga, José Manuel De La Peña, Ana Isabel Antón, Galo Fernando Díez
ASSESSMENT OF THE REGIONAL FREQUENCY ANALYSIS TO THE ESTIMATION OF EXTREME STORM SURGES ...... 1025 Jérôme Weiss, Pietro Bernardara, Michel Benoit
SEDIMENT DYNAMICS IN LAGOS HARBOUR RECONNAISSANCE ON EFFECTS OF DREDGING ...... 1037 T. Vijverberg, M. J. J. Reneerkens, J. C. Winterwerp, O. Scholl, Y. Haruna
ADVANCES IN COASTAL DISASTERS RISK MANAGEMENT – LESSONS FROM THE 2011 TOHOKU TSUNAMI ...... 1049 Sebastiaan N. Jonkman, Tomohiro Yasuda, V. Tsimopoulou, H. Kawai, F. Kato
TURBINE CHAMBER COUPLING IN AN OWC WAVE ENERGY CONVERTER...... 1055 I. Lopez, G. Iglesias, M. Lopez, F. Castro, M. A. Rodríguez
A METHODOLOGY FOR TSUNAMI HAZARD AND RISK ASSESSMENT: APPLICATION TO THE COASTAL AREA OF EL SALVADOR...... 1062 Pino González-Riancho, Mauricio Gonzalez, Omar Gutiérrez, Oscar García-Aguilar, Iñigo Aniel-Quiroga, Ignacio Aguirre- Ayerbe, Jose Antonio Álvarez, Francisco Gavidia, Ivonne Jaimes, Jeniffer Larreynaga
INVESTIGATIONS ON SCOUR DEVELOPMENT AROUND A GRAVITY FOUNDATION FOR OFFSHORE WIND TURBINES ...... 1074 Mayumi Wilms, Arne Stahlmann, Torsten Schlurmann
FIELD INVESTIGATION OF WAVE DISSIPATION OVER SALT MARSH VEGETATION DURING TROPICAL CYCLONE...... 1084 Ranjit Jadhav, Qin Chen
ESTIMATING FLUVIAL DISCHARGE IN THE CARIBBEAN SEABOARD OF COLOMBIA: MAGNITUDE, VARIABILITY AND EXTREME EVENTS...... 1095 Juan Camilo Restrepo, Juan Carlos Ortiz, Mauro Maza, Luis Otero, Manuel Alvarado, Julián Aguirre
INFLUENCE OF INLET / SHOAL COMPLEX ON ADJACENT SHORELINES VIA INLET SINK METHOD...... 1107 Kelly R. Legault, Tanya M. Beck, Jason A. Engle
RESILIENCE OF DIKES AFTER INITIAL DAMAGE BY WAVE ATTACK...... 1117 M. Klein Breteler, M. Bottema, G. A. M. Kruse, G. C. Mourik, A. Capel
PLACEMENT GRIDS, POROSITY AND RANDOMNESS OF ARMOR LAYERS ...... 1131 Vicente Pardo, Maria Piedad Herrera, Jorge Molines, Josep Ramon Medina
ONLINE OPERATIONAL EARLY WARNING SYSTEM PROTOTYPES TO FORECAST COASTAL STORM IMPACTS (CEWS) ...... 1142 Piet Haerens, Paolo Ciavola, Óscar Ferreira, Ap Van Dongeren, Mark Van Koningsveld, Annelies Bolle
QUANTIFYING NEARSHORE MORPHOLOGICAL RECOVERY TIME SCALES USING ARGUS VIDEO IMAGING: PALM BEACH, SYDNEY AND DUCK, NORTH CAROLINA...... 1150 Roshanka Ranasinghe, Rob Holman, Matthieu De Schipper, Tom Lippmann, Jennifer Wehof, Trang Minh Duong, Dano Roelvink, Marcel Stive
PERFORMANCE ANALYSIS OF COMPOSITE SEMICIRCULAR BREAKWATERS OF DIFFERENT CONFIGURATIONS AND POROSITIES ...... 1157 Hee Min Teh, Vengatesan Venugopal, Tom Bruce
STABILITY FORMULA FOR TETRAPOD INCORPORATING SLOPE EFFECT ...... 1168 Kyung-Duck Suh, Jin-Sung Kang
WAVE DYNAMICS AND ITS IMPACT TO WAVE CLIMATE PROJECTION...... 1178 Tomoya Shimura, Nobuhito Mori, Tomohiro Yasuda, Hajime Mase
MEASUREMENTS OF SURFACE KINEMATICS AND TEMPERATURE IN THE SURF AND SWASH ZONES USING INFRARED IMAGE VELOCIMETRY ...... 1189 Zhi-Cheng Huang, Kao-Shu Hwang, Luc Lenain, W. Kendall Melville, Hwung-Hwang Hwung
SHOREWARD SAND TRANSPORT OUTSIDE THE SURFZONE, NORTHERN GOLD COAST, AUSTRALIA...... 1200 D. C. Patterson
BEACH CHANGES AROUND DAWU FISHING PORT IN TAIWAN CAUSED BY OBSTRUCTION OF LONGSHORE SAND TRANSPORT AND MEASURES ...... 1215 Takayuki Kumada, Takaaki Uda, Jimmy J. Y. Liu
NUMERICAL ANALYSIS OF TSUNAMI PROPAGATION ON WIDE REEF PLATFORM ...... 1228 Takahito Mikami, Tomoya Shibayama
WAVE INTERACTION WITH LARGE ROUGHNESS ELEMENTS ON AN IMPERMEABLE SLOPING BED...... 1229 Bjarne Jensen, Erik Damgaard Christensen, B. Mutlu Sumer
PHYSICAL MODELING STUDY ON SCOUR AND SCOUR COUNTERMEASURE FOR SEA-CROSSING BRIDGE PIERS...... 1244 Hsin-Hung Chen, Ray-Yeng Yang, Ping-Chiao Kuo, Hwung-Hweng Hwung
MIXING IN COASTAL AREAS INFERRED FROM LYAPUNOV EXPONENTS: IMPLICATIONS FOR TRANSPORT...... 1259 A. Orfila, A. Galan, G. Simarro, J. M. Sayol
MECHANISMS OF COASTAL DIKE FAILURE INDUCED BY THE GREAT EAST JAPAN EARTHQUAKE TSUNAMI ...... 1268 Fuminori Kato, Yoshio Suwa, Kunihiro Watanabe, Satoshi Hatogai
LABORATORY INVESTIGATION ON THE EFFECTIVENESS OF AN OVERSPILL BASIN IN REDUCING WAVE OVERTOPPING ON MARINA BREAKWATERS...... 1277 Lorenzo Cappietti, Pier Luigi Aminti
NON-HYDROSTATIC MODELLING OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVES USING SWASH...... 1287 D. P. Rijnsdorp, P. B. Smit, M. Zijlema
PHYSICAL MODEL AND REVISION OF THEORETICAL RUNUP...... 1299 José Manuel De La Peña, José Francisco Sánchez González, Roberto Díaz-Sánchez, Manuel Martín Huéscar
STRUCTURAL STABILITY OF CUBE AND ROCK-ARMOURED SUBMERGED BREAKWATERS FOR BEACH PROTECTION...... 1308 José F. Sánchez-González, Joaquín Garrido Checa, Mª Dolores Ortiz Sánchez, Manuel Martín Huescar
MULTIPLE REGRESSION ANALYSIS OF EFFECTS OF BAR AND TIDE ON SHORELINE CHANGE ...... 1319 Masayuki Banno, Yoshiaki Kuriyama
SPATIOTEMPORAL ANALYSIS OF VARIATIONS OF CERTAIN MORPHOLOGICAL BEACH FORMS ...... 1328 Zbigniew Pruszak, Jan Schönhofer, Grzegorz Rózynski
INFLUENCE OF DAMAGED GROINS ON NOURISHED SEASHORE ...... 1343 R. Ostrowski, Z. Pruszak, J. Schönhofer, M. Szmytkiewicz, P. Szmytkiewicz
ASSESSMENT OF THE EFFECTS OF THE ZUIDER SEA CLOSURE ON THE HYDRODYNAMICS OF THE WADDEN SEA INLETS ...... 1351 Julia Vroom, Edwin Elias, Jamie Lescinski, Zheng Bing Wang
A NOVEL CELLULAR AUTOMATA APPROACH TO ESTUARINE MORPHODYNAMIC MODELLING ...... 1362 Ian Bentley, Harshinie Karunarathna
ON THE INFLUENCE OF BREAKING WAVE LOCAL GEOMETRY ON IMPULSIVE LOADS ...... 1373 Stéphane Abadie, Cyril Mokrani
WAVE MODELING WITH SWAN+ADCIRC FOR THE SOUTH CAROLINA COASTAL STORM SURGE STUDY...... 1381 Christopher J. Bender, William Miller, Ashley Naimaster, Tucker Mahoney
OVERTOPPING CHARACTERIZATION FOR THE ELABORATION OF VULNERABILITY MAPS IN PORTS FACILITIES...... 1396 Álvaros Campos, Alberto Llana, Rafael Molina, Ana Alises, Rebeca Gómez, Carmen Castillo
FIELD MEASUREMENTS OF SHEET FLOW SEDIMENT TRANSPORT IN THE SWASH ZONE ...... 1397 Thijs Lanckriet, Jack A. Puleo, Gerd Masselink, Ian Turner, Daniel Conley, Chris Blenkinsopp, Paul Russell
PARAMETRIC AND NON-PARAMETRIC METHODS FOR THE STUDY OF THE VARIABILITY OF WAVE DIRECTIONS: APPLICATION TO THE ATLANTIC URUGUAYAN COASTS...... 1404 Sebastián Solari, Miguel Ángel Losada
ASSESSING SHORELINE CHANGE USING SATELLITE-DERIVED SHORELINES IN PROGRESO, YUCATÁN, MÉXICO ...... 1413 Gabriela García-Rubio, David Huntley, Paul Russell
DESTRUCTION MECHANISM OF COASTAL LEVEES ON THT SENDAI BAY COAST HIT BY THE 2011 TSUNAMI ...... 1426 Akira Mano, Hitoshi Tanaka, Keiko Udo
LONG-TERM PREDICTION OF BEACH PROFILE AND SEDIMENT GRAIN SIZE CHARACTERISTIC AT LOW ENERGY BEACH...... 1438 Gozo Tsujimoto, Masahiro Tamai, Fumihiko Yamada
LITTORAL TRANSPORT MODELING FOR OCEAN BEACH AND SAN FRANCISCO BIGHT, CALIFORNIA ...... 1446 Lihwa Lin, Honghai Li, Frank Wu, Lisa C. Andes
BEHAVIOR OF FISH REEF BLOCKS FALLING THROUGH WATER...... 1457 Jun Mitsui, Shin-Ichi Ogata, Sanae Shibata, Akira Matsumoto, Masato Yamamoto
IMPROVEMENT OF SEDIMENT TRANSPORT BY EXCAVATION OF CAUSEWAY IN FUNAFUTI ATOLL, TUVALU ...... 1470 D. Sato, H. Yokoki, H. Kayanne
ANALYTICAL INVESTIGATION OF SLAB BRIDGE DAMAGES CAUSED BY TSUNAMI FLOW...... 1471 Keisuke Murakami, Yoshiko Sakamoto, Tetsuya Nonaka
BEACH CHANGES CAUSED BY EXTENSION OF OFFSHORE BREAKWATER AND LIMITATIONS OF ARTIFICIAL REEFS CONSTRUCTED AS A MEASURE AGAINST BEACH EROSION ...... 1480 Yasuhito Noshi, Takaaki Uda, Yukiyoshi Hoshigami
BED STRESS INVESTIGATION UNDER BREAKING SOLITARY WAVE RUNUP...... 1491 Mohammad Bagus Adityawan, Hitoshi Tanaka, Pengzhi Lin
DEPTH OF CLOSURE DETERMINATION IN THE VICINITY OF COASTAL STRUCTURE...... 1502 Widyaningtias, Hitoshi Tanaka, Susumu Kanayama
SIMULATION OF INUNDATION CAUSED BY TSUNAMI VIA UNDERGROUND CHANNELS ...... 1517 Kazunori Ito, Yukinobu Oda, Atsushi Furuta, Yuriko Takayama
OUTLIER SENSITIVITY ON THE SEA EXTREMES BY THE TEMPORAL AND CLIMATE INDEX COVARIATIONS...... 1530 Toshikazu Kitano, Wataru Kioka, Rinya Takahashi
DECISION MAKING UNDER UNCERTAINTY IN COASTAL ZONE MANAGEMENT ...... 1541 A. Félix, A. Baquerizo, J. M. Santiago, M. A. Losada
INFLUENCE OF CUBE AND CUBIPOD ARMOR POROSITIES ON OVERTOPPING...... 1553 Jorge Molines, Tomas Javier Perez, Guillermo Zarranz, Josep Ramon Medina
DEVELOPMENT OF COASTAL PROTECTION MEASURES FOR SMALL ISLANDS IN THE WADDEN SEA USING A RISK-BASED APPROACH ...... 1561 Theide Wöffler, Holger Schüttrumpf, Arne Arns, Hilmar Von Eynatten, Roger Häußling, Jürgen Jensen, Malte Schindler
INCREASED WATER LEVELS DUE TO MORPHODYNAMIC CHANGES; THE LIMFJORD, DENMARK...... 1572 Soeren Bjerre Knudsen, Signe M. Ingvardsen, Holger Toxvig Madsen, Carlo Sorensen, Bo Brahtz Christensen
CONTRASTING STORM IMPACTS ON GRAVEL BEACHES – EXAMPLES FROM SOUTH ENGLAND...... 1584 Timothy Poate, Robert McCall, Gerd Masselink, Paul Russell, Mark Davidson
LOW FREQUENCY WAVE RESONANCE IN FRINGING REEF ENVIRONMENTS...... 1595 Andrew W. M. Pomeroy, Ap Van Dongeren, Ryan J. Lowe, Jaap S. M. Van Thiel De Vries, Jan Roelvink
STATIC AND DYNAMIC LOADS ON THE BOTTOM ROW OF ARMOUR UNITS: A THEORETICAL AND PHYSICAL MODEL STUDY...... 1605 M. A. Van De Koppel, M. Muilwijk, H. J. Verhagen
ASYMMETRY AND SKEWNESS IN THE BOTTOM BOUNDARY LAYER : SMALL SCALE EXPERIMENTS AND NUMERICAL MODEL ...... 1612 Céline Berni, Leandro Suarez, Hervé Michallet, Eric Barthélemy
A COMPREHENSIVE SEDIMENT BUDGET FOR THE MISSISSIPPI BARRIER ISLANDS ...... 1619 D. J. R. Walstra, J. H. De Vroeg, J. S. M. Van Thiel De Vries, C. Swinkels, A. P. Luijendijk, W. P. De Boer, R. Hoekstra, B. Hoonhout, J. Henrotte, T. Smolders, F. Dekker, E. Godsey
A NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF THE WOS AND THE WAVE PROPAGATION ALONG A COASTAL DIKE ...... 1634 Panayotis Prinos, Maria Tsakiri, Dimitris Souliotis
INFLUENCE OF THE WAVE REGIME IN COASTAL SEDIMENT BUDGET: PRESENT AND FUTURE SCENARIOS...... 1643 Sandra Plecha, Carina L. Lopes, Nicolas Bruneau, Nuno A. Ribeiro, Paulo A. Silva, André B. Fortunato, João M. Dias
A NUMERICAL STUDY ON THE EFFECT OF BEACH NOURISHMENT ON WAVE OVERTOPPING IN SHALLOW FORESHORES...... 1655 Tomohiro Suzuki, Toon Verwaest, William Veale, Koen Trouw, Marcel Zijlema
MODELLING ANTHROPOGENIC EFFECT OF A TIDAL BASIN EVOLUTION...... 1668 Pushpa Dissanayake, Andreas Wurpts, Marco Miani, Heiko Knaack
INVESTIGATING THE RECESSION PROCESS OF COMPLEX SOFT CLIFF COASTS: AN ISLE OF WIGHT CASE STUDY...... 1680 Natasha Carpenter, Caroline Stuiver, Robert J. Nicholls, William Powrie, Mike Walkden
2DV RANS-VOF MODELLING OF DEPTHS AND VELOCITIES OF OVERTOPPING WAVES AT OVERWASHED DIKES ...... 1695 Andrea N. Raosa, Barbara Zanuttigh, Javier L. Lara, Steve Hughes
INCORPORATING A RISK ASSESSMENT PROCEDURE INTO SUBMARINE OUTFALL PROJECTS AND APPLICATION TO PORTUGUESE CASE STUDIES ...... 1710 A. Mendonça , M. A. Losada, S. Solari, M. G. Neves, M. T. Reis
VORTICAL VLF MOTIONS UNDER SHORE-NORMAL INCIDENT WAVES...... 1721 Matthieu De Schipper, Ad Reniers, Jamie Macmahan, Roshanka Ranasinghe
BONDED POROUS REVETMENTS – EFFECT OF POROSITY ON WAVE-INDUCED LOADS AND HYDRAULIC PERFORMANCE...... 1734 Sven Liebisch, Juan Carlos Alcérreca Huerta, Andreas Kortenhaus, Hocine Oumeraci
RUBBLE MOUND BREAKWATER OVERTOPPING: ESTIMATION OF THE RELIABILITY OF A 3D NUMERICAL SIMULATION...... 1749 Luca Cavallaro, Fabio Dentale, Giovanna Donnarumma, Enrico Foti, Rosaria E. Musumeci, Eugenio Pugliese Carratelli
RE-ASSESSMENT AND UPDATE OF BULK LONGSHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT FORMULAS...... 1758 João Mil-Homens, Roshanka Ranasinghe, Jaap Van Thiel De Vries, Marcel Stive
PHYSICAL MODEL TESTS ON WAVE OVERTOPPING AND FLOW PROCESSES ON DIKE CRESTS INFLUENCED BY WAVE-CURRENT INTERACTION ...... 1770 Stefanie Lorke, Babette Scheres, Holger Schüttrumpf, Antje Bornschein, Reinhard Pohl
NUMERICAL SIMULATIONS OF BREAKING SOLITARY WAVES...... 1783 Pierre Lubin, Stéphane Glockner
THE EFFECT OF BED PERMEABILITY ON OSCILLATORY BOUNDARY LAYER FLOW...... 1791 Kathryn Sparrow, Dubravka Pokrajac, Dominic A. Van Der A
MORPHOLOGICAL MODELLING OF THE RESPONSE TO A SHIPWRECK - A CASE STUDY AT CAPE TOWN...... 1803 Sten Esbjørn Kristensen, Rolf Deigaard, Nils Drønen, Jørgen Fredsoe, Stephen Luger
INVESTIGATIONS ON SCOUR DEVELOPMENT AT TRIPOD FOUNDATIONS FOR OFFSHORE WIND TURBINES: MODELING AND APPLICATION ...... 1813 Arne Stahlmann, Torsten Schlurmann
BASIC EXAMINATION OF FUTURE CHANGE OF TROPICAL CYCLONE AND STORM SURGE PROPERTIES UNDER CLIMATE CHANGE ...... 1824 Sota Nakajo, Nobuhito Mori, Tomohiro Yasuda, Hajime Mase
OPERATIONAL FORECAST OF BEACH MORPHODYNAMICS. RELIABILITY AND PREDICTION LIMITS...... 1837 A. Sánchez-Arcilla, V. Gràcia, M. Grifoll, M. García, E. Pallares
DAMAGE TO REINFORCED CONCRETE BUILDINGS AND COASTAL TREES DUE TO THE 2011 OFF THE PACIFIC COAST OF TOHOKU EARTHQUAKE TSUNAMI ...... 1848 Hideo Matsutomi, Eriko Yamaguchi, Kazunori Naoe, Kenji Harada
STABILITY OF INTERLOCKED PATTERN PLACED BLOCK REVETMENTS...... 1861 Fabian Gier, Holger Schüttrumpf, Jens Mönnich, Jentsje Van Der Meer, Matthias Kudella, Hillel Rubin
METHOD TO PREDICT LONG TIME SPAN OF SCOUR AROUND OFFSHORE WIND TURBINE FOUNDATIONS...... 1872 Martin Dixen, Iris P. Lohmann, Erik D. Christensen
EVALUATION OF A PARAMETRIC-TYPE WAVE TRANSFORMATION MODEL AGAINST FIELD AND LABORATORY DATA ...... 1882 Alireza Jafari, Nick Cartwright
STABILITY OF RUBBLE MOUND BREAKWATERS WITH A BERM ...... 1896 Marcel R. A. Van Gent, Gregory M. Smith, Ivo M. Van Der Werf
COMPREHENSIVE STUDY OF SWASH-ZONE HYDRODYNAMICS AND SEDIMENT TRANSPORT ...... 1908 Jack A. Puleo, Chris Blenkinsopp, Daniel Conley, Gerd Masselink, Paul Russell, Ian Turner, Daniel Buscombe, Thijs Lanckriet, Robert McCall, Timothy Poate
INTERTIDAL FINGER BARS AT EL PUNTAL SPIT, BAY OF SANTANDER, SPAIN ...... 1916 Roland Garnier, Raúl Medina, Erica Pellón, Albert Falqués, Imen Turki
Volume 3
EXPERIMENTAL INVESTIGATION ON DYNAMIC EQUILIBRIUM BAY SHAPE...... 1924 Sutat Weesakul, Somruthai Tasaduak
NUMERICAL VALIDATION OF WAVE PROPAGATION, TRANSFORMATION AND DISSIPATION TOWARDS A HARBOUR FACILITY: A NEW BECHMARK CASE ...... 1937 G. Diaz-Hernandez, P. Lomonaco, J. A. Armesto, A. P. Mendoza
MODELLING STORM IMPACT ON COMPLEX COASTLINES WESTKAPELLE, THE NETHERLANDS...... 1952 R. B. Van Santen, H. J. Steetzel, J. Van Thiel De Vries, A. Van Dongeren
MODELLING OVERWASH AND INFILTRATION ON GRAVEL BARRIERS...... 1966 Robert McCall, Gerd Masselink, Dano Roelvink, Paul Russell, Mark Davidson, Timothy Poate
LONG TERM MORPHOLOGICAL EVOLUTION OF THE GOLD COAST SEAWAY: HISTORICAL AND NUMERICAL ANALYSIS...... 1981 Mahnaz Sedigh, Rodger Tomlinson, Aliasghar Golshani, Nick Cartwright
FULL PARTICLE PIC MODELLING OF THE SURF AND SWASH ZONES ...... 1982 D. M. Kelly
BARRED-BEACH MORPHOLOGICAL CONTROL ON INFRAGRAVITY MOTION ...... 1991 Rafael Almar, Rodrigo Cienfuegos, Eduardo Gonzalez, Patricio Catalán, Hervé Michallet, Philippe Bonneton, Bruno Castelle, Leandro Suarez
ADAPTATION OF A BOUSSINESQ WAVE MODEL FOR DUNE EROSION MODELING ...... 2000 Nils Drønen, Rolf Deigaard
LAGRANGIAN DRIFTER MODELLING OF AN EXPERIMENTAL RIP CURRENT ...... 2011 Leandro Suarez, Rodrigo Cienfuegos, Cristian Escauriaza, Eric Barthélemy, Hervé Michallet
IMPACT ASSESSMENT OF EXTREME STORM EVENTS USING A BAYESIAN NETWORK ...... 2022 C.(Kees) Den Heijer, Dirk T. J. A. Knipping, Nathaniel G. Plant, Jaap S. M. Van Thiel De Vries, Fedor Baart, Pieter H. A. J. M. Van Gelder
MODELLING DUNE EROSION, OVERWASH AND INUNDATION OF BARRIER ISLANDS...... 2037 Bas Hoonhout, Jaap Van Thiel De Vries
NEARSHORE WAVE DAMPING DUE TO THE EFFECT ON WINDS IN RESPONSE TO OFFSHORE WIND FARMS ...... 2050 Ruben R. Gandara, John M. Harris
MANAGEMENT OF AEOLIAN SAND TRANSPORT ON A DIKE, DUNKIRK SEAPORT, FRANCE...... 2065 Antoine Tresca, Marie-Hélène Ruz, Stéphane Raison, Pascal Grégoire
NONUNIFORM ALONGSHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT INDUCED BY COASTLINE CURVATURE ...... 2075 A. López-Ruiz, M. Ortega-Sánchez, A. Baquerizo, D. Navidad, M. A. Losada
IMPROVEMENTS IN DESCRIBING WAVE OVERTOPPING PROCESSES ...... 2085 Steven Hughes, Christopher Thornton, Jentsje Van Der Meer, Bryon Scholl
EVALUATION OF NOURISHMENT SCHEMES BASED ON LONG-TERM MORPHOLOGICAL MODELING ...... 2100 Nicholas Grunnet, Sten Esbjørn Kristensen, Nils Drønen, Rolf Deigaard, Caroline Tessier, Nicolas Forain
SIMULTANEOUS SURFACE AND SUBSURFACE AIR AND WATER FLOWS MODELLING IN THE SWASH ZONE ...... 2111 Jonathan Desombre, Denis Morichon, Mathieu Mory
LIMITS OF THE NEW TRANSMISSION FORMULA FOR π-TYPE FLOATING BREAKWATERS...... 2123 P. Ruol, L. Martinelli, P. Pezzutto
APPLICATION OF AN AUTONOMOUS ROBOT FOR THE COLLECTION OF NEARSHORE TOPOGRAPHIC AND HYDRODYNAMIC MEASUREMENTS...... 2133 Frauke Wübbold, Matthias Hentschel, Michalis I. Vousdoukas, Bernardo Wagner
STORM EARLY WARNING SYSTEM AS A LAST PLUG-IN OF A REGIONAL OPERATIONAL OCEANOGRAPHY SYSTEM: THE CASE OF THE GULF OF CADIZ...... 2144 T. A. Plomaritis, J. Benavente, L. Del Río, E. Reyes, C. Dastis, M. Gómez, M. Bruno
HURRICANE HAZARD ASSESSMENT: CONSIDERATIONS FOR SEA-LEVEL RISE AND CLIMATE CHANGE...... 2154 Jennifer L. Irish, Celso Ferreira, Donald T. Resio, Francisco Olivera, Chih Hung Hsu
METHODS AND ANALYSIS TOOLS FOR REDEVELOPMENTS IN AN ESTUARY WITH HIGH SUSPENDED SEDIMENT CONCENTRATIONS ...... 2159 Monika Donner, Florian Ladage, Oliver Stoschek, Hoang Ha Nguyen
BEACH INUNDATION PREDICTION DURING STORMS USING DIREFERENTS WAVE HEIGHTS AS INPUTS...... 2172 Amanda Sancho-García, Jorge Guillén, Gonzalo Simarro, Raúl Medina, Verónica Cánovas
THE UK’S FIRST CLIMATE CHANGE RISK ASSESSMENT AND THE IMPLICATIONS FOR THE COAST...... 2180 Dominic Hames, Michael Panzeri, David Ramsbottom, Ian Townend, Steven Wade
STABILITY OF INTERLOCKING ARMOUR UNITS ON A BREAKWATER CREST ...... 2189 Ilse Van Den Bosch, Erik Ten Oever, Pieter Bakker, Markus Muttray
USE OF SINGLE LAYER CONCRETE ARMOUR UNITS AS TOE REINFORCEMENT...... 2199 Martin Young, John Hayman-Joyce, Seok Hyeon Kim
COUPLING OF A BOUSSINESQ WAVE MODEL WITH A MOORED SHIP BEHAVIOR MODEL...... 2211 Liliana Pinheiro, Conceição Fortes, João Santos, José Fernandes
A FIELD AND NUMERICAL STUDY INTO RIP CURRENTS IN WIND-SEA DOMINATED ENVIRONMENTS...... 2225 Gundula Winter, Ap Van Dongeren, Matthieu De Schipper, Jaap Van Thiel De Vries
SECONDARY WAVES IN COASTAL ZONE: PHYSICAL MECHANISMS OF FORMATION AND POSSIBLE APPLICATION FOR COASTAL PROTECTION...... 2235 Sergey Kuznetsov, Yana Saprykina
FLOW VISUALISATION AROUND A SOLID SPHERE ON A ROUGH BED UNDER REGULAR WAVES ...... 2249 H. P. V. Vithana, Richard Simons, Martin Hyde
NUMERICAL MODELING OF COASTAL INUNDATION AND SEDIMENTATION BY STORM SURGE, TIDES, AND WAVES AT NORFOLK, VIRGINIA, USA...... 2264 Honghai Li, Lihwa Lin, Kelly A. Burks-Copes
AN EARLY WARNING SYSTEM FOR THE ON-LINE PREDICTION OF COASTAL STORM RISK ON THE ITALIAN COASTLINE ...... 2278 Mitchell Harley, Andrea Valentini, Clara Armaroli, Paolo Ciavola, Luisa Perini, Lorenzo Calabrese, Francesco Marucci
ALTERATION IN SALINITY IN THE WESER ESTUARY AFTER 1998: QUANTIFICATION BY ARTIFICIAL NEURAL NETWORKS ...... 2289 Cordula Berkenbrink, Hanz Dieter Niemeyer
SEDIMENT SORTING AND BEACH MORPHOLOGY UNDER PLUNGING WAVE BREAKING...... 2290 Adrián Pedrozo-Acuña, Diana Resendiz, Edgar Mendoza, Rodolfo Silva
A GULF OF MEXICO MARSH RESTORATION AND PROTECTION PROJECT...... 2302 Scott L. Douglass, Carl Ferraro, Caren R. Dixon, Larry Oliver, Lloyd Pitts
3-D WAVE FIELD AROUND SUBMERGED BREAKWATER...... 2317 Amir Sharif Ahmadian, Richard Simons
NEARSHORE WAVE PREDICTIONS ALONG THE OREGON AND SOUTHWEST WASHINGTON COAST...... 2327 Gabriel García-Medina, H. Tuba Özkan-Haller, Peter Ruggiero
GIS-BASED ANALYSIS OF STORM VULNERABILITY CHANGE AT PEA ISLAND, NC ...... 2334 Eric Hardin, Helena Mitasova, Margery Overton
LARGE-WAVE SIMULATION OF TURBULENT FLOW INDUCED BY WAVE PROPAGATION AND BREAKING OVER CONSTANT SLOPE BED...... 2343 Gerasimos A. Kolokythas, Aggelos S. Dimakopoulos, Athanassios A. Dimas
STUDYING THE EFFECT OF LINEAR REFRACTION ON LOW-FREQUENCY WAVE PROPAGATION (PHYSICAL AND NUMERICAL STUDY) ...... 2355 Sepehr Eslami Arab, Ap Van Dongeren, Peter Wellens
RISK ASSESSMENT FOR NORTH SEA COASTAL LOWLANDS: INFLUENCE OF DIFFERENT COASTAL DEFENCE SYSTEMS ON FLOODING IN CASE OF FAILURE ...... 2370 Holger Blum, Frank Thornez, Hans-Jörg Lambrecht
EVOLUTION OF LOCAL SCOUR AROUND A COLLARED MONOPILE THROUGH TIDAL CYCLES ...... 2371 Dave McGovern, Suzana Ilic, Andrew Folkard, Stuart McLelland, Brendan Murphy
THE QUASI-STREAMFUNCTION FORMALISM ...... 2382 Miao Tian, William Cottrell, Alex Sheremet, Jane Smith
FINAL DESIGN OF THE NAGS HEAD BEACH NOURISHMENT PROJECT USING A LONGSHORE NUMERICAL MODEL...... 2389 Haiqing Liu Kaczkowski, Timothy W. Kana
MODELING ALTERNATIVES FOR EROSION CONTROL AT MATAGORDA COUNTY, TEXAS, WITH GENCAD...... 2404 Ashley E. Frey, James Rosati III, Kenneth J. Connell, Hans Hanson, Magnus Larson
INVESTIGATION OF THE SWASH ZONE EVOLUTION AT WAVE TIME SCALE ...... 2418 Jessica Astier, Dominique Astruc, Laurent Lacaze, Olivier Eiff
FIELD MEASUREMENTS OF BEDFORMS IN A RIP CHANNEL ON A MACRO-TIDAL BEACH ...... 2427 Antony Thorpe, Jon Miles, Gerd Masselink, Paul Russell, Tim Scott, Martin Austin
LAND COVER AND SEDIMENT LAYERS AS CONTROLS OF INLET BREACHING...... 2437 M. O. Kurum, M. Overton, H. Mitasova
ARTIFICIAL DEVIATION OF A SMALL INLET (BEVANO, NORTHERN ITALY): PREDICTION OF FUTURE EVOLUTION AND PLANNING OF MANAGEMENT STRATEGIES USING OPEN-SOURCE COMMUNITY COASTAL MODELS...... 2446 Paolo Ciavola, Massimo Tondello, Sandro Carniel, Mauro Sclavo
COMPUTATIONAL FLUID DYNAMIC ANALYSIS OF HIGHWAY BRIDGES EXPOSED TO HURRICANE WAVES...... 2459 M. Bozorgnia, Jiin-Jen Lee
REMOTE SENSING AND DATA ASSIMILATION FOR SURF ZONE BATHYMETRIC INVERSION...... 2473 Greg Wilson, H. Tuba Özkan-Haller, Robert Holman, Alexander Kurapov
WAVE RUNUP ON DIKES AND BEACHES...... 2479 Jill Pietropaolo, Nobuhisa Kobayashi, Jeffrey A. Melby
THE EFFECT OF A SUBMARINE CANYON ON TSUNAMI PROPAGATION IN THE GULF OF ARAUCO, CHILE ...... 2492 Rafael Aránguiz
INFLUENCE OF NON-LINEAR WAVES AND UNDERTOW IN SANDBAR DEVELOPMENT ...... 2500 Tiago Abreu, Francisco Sancho, Paulo A. Silva
WAVE FLUME-BASED EVALUATION OF SUSPENDED SAND TRANSPORT IN BREAKING WAVES ...... 2514 Junichi Otsuka, Yasunori Watanabe
ANTIREFLECTIVE VERTICAL STRUCTURE EXTENDED FOR ATTENUATION OF LOW FREQUENCY WAVES...... 2523 J. A. Gonzalez-Escriva, J. R. Medina
FORECASTING THE WAVE-CURRENT INTERACTIONS AT THE MOUTH OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER, OR, USA ...... 2532 Sarah Kassem, H. Tuba Özkan-Haller
EFFECT OF SURFACE ROLLERS ON THE FORMATION OF CRESCENTIC BARS: LARGE ANGLES OF INCIDENCE...... 2538 D. Calvete, F. Ribas, H. E. De Swart, A. Falqués
MODELING MICROBIAL WATER QUALITY AT A BEACH IMPACTED BY MULTIPLE NON-POINT SOURCES ...... 2543 Zhixuan Feng, Ad Reniers, Brian Haus, Helena Solo-Gabriele, Laura Fiorentino, Maria Olascoaga, Jamie Macmahan
MECHANISM AND COUNTERMEASURES OF WAVE OVERTOPPING FOR LONG-PERIOD SWELL IN COMPLEX BATHYMETRY ...... 2556 Hiroaki Kashima, Katsuya Hirayama
IMPROVEMENT OF STORM SURGE SIMULATION UPON PARAMETERIZATIONS OF COUPLED AIR- SEA INTERACTIONS ...... 2568 Junichi Ninomiya, Nobuhito Mori, Tomohiro Yasuda, Hajime Mase, Naoto Kihara
PREDICTION OF MAXIMUM POSSIBLE STORM SURGES IN ISE BAY UNDER A FUTURE CLIMATE...... 2582 Tomokazu Murakami, Jun Yoshino, Takashi Yasuda
EXTREME WATER LEVEL EXCEEDANCE PROBABILITIES AROUND AUSTRALIA ...... 2595 Leigh R. Macpherson, Ivan D. Haigh, Matthew S. Mason, E. M. S. Wijeratne, Charitha B. Pattiaratchi, Steve George
BORE-INDUCED MACROVORTICES OVER A PLANAR BEACH: THE CROSS-SEA CONDITION CASE ...... 2606 Matteo Postacchini, Maurizio Brocchini, Luciano Soldini
VESSEL WAKE INDUCED SEDIMENT MOBILITY AT EAGLE HARBOR, WASHINGTON, USA ...... 2617 David R. Michalsen, Zeki Demirbilek, Okey Nwogu
EVALUATION OF CELERITY AND VELOCITY FOR TSUNAMI PROPGATION INTO RIVERS ...... 2628 Min Roh, Hitoshi Tanaka, Mohammad Bagus Adityawan, Akira Mano, Keiko Udo
REDUCING UNCERTAINTY IN EXTREME WAVES AND STORM SURGES USING A COMBINED EXTREME VALUE MODEL AND WAVELETS...... 2638 P. Galiatsatou, P. Prinos
ASSESSMENT OF COASTAL FLOODING AT SOUTHERN MEDITERRANEAN WITH GLOBAL OUTLOOK FOR LOWLAND COASTAL ZONES ...... 2653 Nabil M. Ismail, Moheb Iskander, Walid El-Sayed
STABILITY OF RUBBLE MOUND BREAKWATERS AGAINST SOLITARY WAVES ...... 2667 Miguel Esteban, Izumi Morikubo, Tomoya Shibayama, Rafael Aranguiz Muñoz, Takahito Mikami, Nguyen Danh Thao, Koichiro Ohira, Akira Ohtani
NUMERICAL INVESTIGATION OF PRESSURE ACTING ON FLOATING PANEL FOR WAVE OVERTOPPING REDUCTION UNDER REGULAR WAVE ACTION ...... 2680 Koji Kawasaki, Han Dinh Ut, Tetsuya Matsuno, Tadashi Fukumoto
CLIMATE CHANGE AND COASTAL DEFENCES IN TOKYO BAY ...... 2691 Sayaka Hoshino, Miguel Esteban, Takahito Mikami, Tomoyuki Takabatake, Tomoya Shibayama
SCOUR DEVELOPMENT IN COMPLEX SEDIMENT BEDS ...... 2706 Kate Porter, Richard Simons, John Harris, Tiago Fazeres Ferradosa
DUNE EROSION ABOVE REVETMENTS...... 2715 Jaap Van Thiel De Vries
PROPERTIES OF FREAK WAVES INDUCED BY TWO KINDS OF NONLINEAR MECHANISMS ...... 2728 Aifeng Tao, Jinhai Zheng, Botao Chen, Hui Li, Ji Peng
A NEW CONCEPTUAL MODEL FOR AEOLIAN TRANSPORT RATES ON BEACHES ...... 2734 Sierd De Vries, Marcel Stive, Leo Van Rijn, Roshanka Ranasinghe
COUPLED WAVE-BED DYNAMICS, ATCHAFALAYA SHELF, LOUISIANA...... 2741 Cihan Sahin, Ilgar Safak, Alexandru Sheremet
ON THE PROBABILITY DISTRIBUTION OF FREAK WAVES IN FINITE WATER DEPTH ...... 2748 Kyugmo Ahn, S. Kim, S. Cheon
PIV MEASUREMENTS OF PARTICLE VELOCITIES AND TRAJECTORIES FOR INTERNAL WAVES PROPAGATING IN A TWO-LAYER FLUID ON A SLOPING BOUNDARY ...... 2759 Motohiko Umeyama, Kim-Cuong Nguyen
EDDY VISCOSITY PROFILES FOR WAVE BOUNDARY LAYERS: VALIDATION AND CALIBRATION BY A K-ω MODEL...... 2772 Rafik Absi, Hitoshi Tanaka, Loreline Kerlidou, Alicia André
COMPREHENSIVE NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF WAVES CAUSED BY TYPHOON USING A METEOROLOGY-WAVE-STORM SURGE-TIDE COUPLED MODEL ...... 2783 Koichiro Ohira, Tomoya Shibayama, Miguel Esteban, Takahito Mikami, Tomoyuki Takabatake, Makito Kokado
A METHOD TO CALCULATE PRESSURE PEAKS BASED ON FREE SURFACE SHAPE: PRELIMINARY RESULTS...... 2795 Cyril Mokrani, Stéphane Abadie
INFLUENCES OF CLIMATE CHANGE ON BEACH PROFILE ...... 2804 Kentaro Hayashi, Nobuhito Mori, Hajime Mase, Yoshiaki Kuriyama, Nobuhisa Kobayashi
A MODEL OF BEACH PROFILE EVOLUTION INCLUDING WAVE-UNDERTOW INTERACTION...... 2816 Chi Zhang, Jinhai Zheng, Titi Sui, Zeki Demirbilek, Lihwa Lin
LOADING OF VERTICAL WALLS BY OVERTOPPING BORES USING PRESSURE AND FORCE SENSORS - A LARGE SCALE MODEL STUDY ...... 2822 Karunya Ramachandran, Rebeca Roldan Genzalez, Hocine Oumeraci, Stefan Schimmels, Matthias Kudella, Koen Van Doorslaer, Julien De Rouck, Tom Versluys, Koen Trouw
MODELLING OF THE IMPACT OF A WAVE FARM ON NEARSHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT...... 2837 Raúl González-Santamaría, Qingping Zou, Shunqi Pan
CHARACTERIZATION OF TRANSITION TO TURBULENCE IN SOLITARY WAVE BOUNDARY LAYER ...... 2846 Bambang Winarta, Hitoshi Tanaka, Hiroto Yamaji
MODELING OF DAMAGE PROGRESSION OF RUBBLE MOUND REVETMENT AND APPLICATION TO PERFORMANCE EVALUATION ...... 2860 Takao Ota, Yoshiharu Matsumi, Nobuaki Kato, Ken-Ichi Ohno
FIELD RUN-UP MEASUREMENTS: CALIBRATION OF A PHYSICALLY BASED LAGRANGIAN SHORELINE MODEL ...... 2869 Carlo Lo Re, Giorgio Manno, Antonino Viviano, Enrico Foti
Volume 4
APPLICATION OF A TVD SOLVER IN A SUITE OF COASTAL ENGINEERING MODELS...... 2877 Fengyan Shi, Gangfeng Ma, James T. Kirby, Tian-Jian Hsu
AN ENERGETIC TYPE MODEL FOR THE CROSS-SHORE DISTRIBUTION OF TOTAL LONGSHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT...... 2889 Cüneyt Baykal, Aysen Ergin, Isikhan Güler
TIDAL POWER GENERATION IN GAROLIM BAY, KOREA...... 2898 Bum-Shick Shin, Kyu-Han Kim
LONGSHORE TRANSPORT AND SEDIMENTATION IN A NAVIGATION CHANNEL AT BLANKENBERGE (BELGIUM) ...... 2907 N. Zimmermann, K. Trouw, L. Wang, M. Mathys, R. Delgado, T. Verwaest
REMOTELY SENSED DATA FOR WAVE PROFILE ANALYSIS ...... 2923 Matthew Harry, Hong Zhang, Gildas Colleter
HYDRODYNAMIC LOAD ON THE BUILDING CAUSED BY OVERTOPPING WAVES...... 2931 Xuexue Chen, Wael Hassan, Wim Uijttewaal, Toon Verwaest, Henk Jan Verhagen, Tomohiro Suzuki, Sebastiaan N. Jonkman
WAVE REFLECTION GENERATED BY CAISSONS WITH INTERNAL RUBBLE MOUND OF VARIABLE SLOPE ...... 2942 Carla Faraci, Biagio Cammaroto, Luca Cavallaro, Enrico Foti
A 3D NUMERICAL INVESTIGATION OF FINE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT IN AN OSCILLATORY CHANNEL ...... 2956 Tian-Jian Hsu, Xiao Yu, C. E. Ozdemir, S. Balachandar
INFLUENCE OF A INFRASTRUCTURE ON TSUNAMI INUNDATION IN A COASTAL CITY: LABORATORY EXPERIMENT AND NUMERICAL SIMULATION ...... 2965 Sungwon Shin, Kwang-Ho Lee, Hyungsu Park, Daniel T. Cox, Kyuhan Kim
NUMERICAL MODELING OF TSUNAMI-INDUCED HYDRODYNAMIC FORCES ON ONSHORE STRUCTURES USING SPH...... 2975 Philippe St-Germain, Ioan Nistor, Ronald Townsend
PREDICTIONS OF CIRCULATING CURRENT FIELD AROUND A SUBMERGED BREAKWATER INDUCED BY BREAKING WAVES AND SURFACE ROLLERS...... 2990 Yoshimitsu Tajima
MORPHOLOGY CHANGE CAUSED BY THE 2011 GREAT TOHOKU TSUNAMI WAVE – MECHANISM OF RECENT CLOSURE AND BREACHING OF THE NANAKITA RIVER MOUTH ...... 3000 Nguyen Xuan Tinh, Hitoshi Tanaka, Ryutaro Hirao, Eko Pradjoko, Akira Mano, Keiko Udo
PERFORMANCE OF PERCHED BEACH NOURISHMENTS...... 3010 R. E. Musumeci, L. Cavallaro, E. Foti
LARGE SCALE EXPERIMENTS ON FARMS OF HEAVING BUOYS TO INVESTIGATE WAKE DIMENSIONS, NEAR-FIELD AND FAR-FIELD EFFECTS ...... 3023 Vasiliki Stratigaki, Peter Troch, Timothy Stallard, Jens Peter Kofoed, Michel Benoit, Giovanni Mattarollo, Aurélien Babarit, David Forehand, Matthew Folley
SHEAR-DRIVEN FLUSHING OF MICRO-TIDAL MARINAS...... 3032 Enda Murphy, Mathieu Deiber, Sylvain Perrin
AN EVALUATION OF THE PHYSICAL IMPACT AND STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY OF A GEOTEXTILE SURF REEF ...... 3047 Emma Rendle, Mark Davidson
HYDRODYNAMIC IMPACTS OF TIDAL POWER LAGOONS IN THE BAY OF FUNDY ...... 3061 Julien Cousineau, Ioan Nistor, Andrew Cornett
PROJECT PERFORMANCE AND MONITORING OF A REVETMENT COCOS BAY, EAST TRINIDAD...... 3076 Charmaine O’Brien-Delpesh, Candice Gray-Bernard, Marisha Tang Kai
SAND TRANSPORT IN THE SWASH ZONE IN LOW-ENERGY WAVE CONDITIONS...... 3077 Paulo A. Silva, Tiago Abreu, Francisco Sancho, Óscar Ferreira, Maria Bezerra, Luís Ferreira, Mariana Rocha, Conceição J. Fortes
EXPERIMENTAL STUDY OF PRESSURE DISTRIBUTIONS DUE TO THE BREAKING WAVE IMPACTS...... 3090 Dogan Kisacik, Peter Troch, Philippe Van Bogaert
REAL-TIME ASSESSMENT OF WAVE AND SURGE RISK DUE TO LANDFALLING HURRICANES ...... 3101 Alexandros A. Taflanidis, Andrew B. Kennedy, Joannes J. Westerink, Jane M. Smith, Tracy Kijewski-Correa, Kwok Fai Cheung
NUMERICAL ANALYSIS OF WAVE AND NEARSHORE CURRENT FIELDS AROUND LOW-CRESTED PERMEABLE DETACHED BREAKWATERS ...... 3116 Takeshi Nishihata, Yoshimitsu Tajima, Shinji Sato
BREAKWATERS UNDER CONSTRUCTION EXPOSED TO OBLIQUE WAVES...... 3126 P. H. M. Mulders, H. J. Verhagen
APPLICABILITY OF SUSPENDED SEDIMENT CONCENTRATION FORMULAE TO LARGE-SCALE BEACH MORPHOLOGICAL CHANGES ...... 3141 Ravindra Jayaratne, Yasufumi Takayama, Tomoya Shibayama
GRAVEL BEACH PROFILE EVOLUTION IN WAVE AND TIDAL ENVIRONMENTS...... 3156 Mohamad H. Jamal, David J. Simmonds, Vanesa Magar
THE EFFECT OF TIDE LEVEL ON THE TSUNAMI RESPONSE OF COASTAL HARBORS...... 3166 Jiin-Jen Lee, Ziyi Huang, Zhiqing Kou, Xiuying Xing
COMBINED PHYSICAL AND NUMERICAL MODELLING TO INFORM OPTIMAL MARINA DESIGN...... 3180 Vincenzo Albanese, Keith Powell, Giovanni Cuomo
PHYSICAL MODELING OF SAND LIQUEFACTION UNDER WAVE BREAKING ON A VERTICAL WALL...... 3194 H. Michallet, V. Rameliarison, C. Berni, M. Bergonzoli, J.-M. Barnoud, E. Barthélemy
NOTIONAL PERMEABILITY...... 3201 R. Kik, J. P. Van Den Bos, J. Maertens, H. J. Verhagen, J. W. Van Der Meer
SEDIMENT TRANSPORT AT THE BOTTOM OF SEA WAVES ...... 3208 G. Vittori, P. Blondeaux
FREQUENCY-BASED HARBOR RESPONSE TO INCIDENT TSUNAMI WAVES IN AMERICAN SAMOA...... 3222 Ziyi Huang, Jiin-Jen Lee
BEACH EROSION COUNTERMEASURE USING NEW ARTIFICIAL REEF BLOCKS...... 3233 Kyuhan Kim, Sungwon Shin, Chongkun Pyun, Hyundong Kim, Nobuhisa Kobayashi
NUMERICAL MODELING OF COASTAL TSUNAMI IMPACT DISSIPATION AND IMPACT ...... 3239 Stéphan T. Grilli, Jeffrey C. Harris, Fengyan Shi, James T. Kirby, Tayebeh S. Tajalli Bakhsh, Elise Estibals, Babak Tehranirad
MORPHOLOGICAL MODELING OF A HIGHLY DYNAMIC TIDAL INLET AT SHIPPAGAN GULLY, CANADA...... 3251 Seth J. Logan, Ioan Nistor, Andrew Cornett, Thierry Faure, Alain Drouin
MODELING SWASH ZONE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT AT TRUC VERT BEACH ...... 3265 Arnold Van Rooijen, Ad Reniers, Jaap Van Thiel De Vries, Chris Blenkinsopp, Robert McCall
AN UNIFIED DESIGN METHOD OF MARITIME WORKS AGAINST WAVES ...... 3277 M. Clavero, M. Vílchez, D. Pérez, M. I. Benedicto, M. A. Losada
IMPACT OF NOURISHMENTS ON NEARSHORE CURRENTS AND SWIMMER SAFETY ON THE DUTCH COAST...... 3286 Roeland C. De Zeeuw, Matthieu A. De Schipper, Dano Roelvink, Sierd De Vries, Marcel J. F. Stive
SEDIMENT BUDGET FORMULATION VIA EXHAUSTIVE SEARCH METHOD ...... 3298 Jason A. Engle, Kelly R. Legault, Julie D. Rosati
ANALYSIS OF THE CARBON FOOTPRINT OF COASTAL PROTECTION SYSTEMS ...... 3307 A. L. Labrujere, H. J. Verhagen
NEW DESIGN OF THE BALTRUM DUNE REVETMENT BASED ON HYDRAULIC MODEL TESTS...... 3315 Frank Thorenz, Holger Blum, Andreas Kortenhaus
PLANNING, PRELIMINARY DESIGN, AND INITIAL PERFORMANCE OF THE NAGS HEAD BEACH NOURISHMENT PROJECT...... 3324 Timothy W. Kana, Haiqing Liu Kaczkowski
COASTAL DUNES VULNERABILITY INDEXES: A NEW PROPOSAL AND APLICATION TO RIA FORMOSA COAST (PORTUGAL) ...... 3336 Francisco Sancho, Filipa S. B. F. Oliveira, Paula Freire
OVERTOPPING FLOW PROPERTIES CHARACTERIZATION IN LABORATORY AND PROTOTYPE THROUGH THE COMBINATION OF NON INTRUSIVE INSTRUMENTAL TECHNIQUES ...... 3348 A. Llana, R. Molina, A. Camarero, A. Campos, A. Alises, J. D. López
DISTRIBUTION OF IMPACT INDUCED PRESSURES AT THE FACE OF UNIFORMLY SLOPED SEA DIKES: PRELIMINARY 2D EXPERIMENTAL RESULTS...... 3359 D. Stagonas, G. Muller, K. Ramachandran, S. Schimmels, A. Dane
FIELD OBSERVATIONS AND MODEL PREDICTIONS OF WAVE TRANSFORMATION ON A MACRO- TIDAL BEACH, KOREA ...... 3366 Jeseon Yoo, Sungwon Shin, Ki-Cheon Jun, Jae-Seol Shim
LABORATORY OBSERVATIONS AND NUMERICAL MODELING OF THE EFFECTS OF AN ARRAY OF WAVE ENERGY CONVERTERS ...... 3373 Aaron Porter, Merrick Haller, Pukha Lenee-Bluhm
OFFSHORE WIND FARM MACRO AND MICRO SITING PROTOCOL APPLICATION TO RHODE ISLAND ...... 3381 Annette Grilli, Malcolm Spaulding, Christopher O’Reilly, Gopu Potty
EVALUATION OF THE RELATIONSHIPS BETWEEN NAVIGATION CHANNEL DREDGING AND EROSION OF ADJACENT BEACHES IN SOUTHERN BRAZIL ...... 3390 Lucas Silveira, Lindino Benedet, Morjana Signorin, Rafael Bonanata
STATISTICAL PREDICTION OF COASTAL AND ESTUARINE EVOLUTION ...... 3405 Vanesa Magar, Markus S. Gross, George Probert, Dominic E. Reeve, Yuzhi Cai
SHEETFLOW SEDIMENT TRANSPORT UNDER SKEWED - ASYMMETRIC WAVES AND CURRENTS ...... 3414 Le Phuong Dong, Shinji Sato
STATISTICAL ESTIMATION OF WAVE CLIMATES IN A MONSOON REGION ...... 3428 Akira Kimura, Takao Ota
SAND BORROW AREA DESIGN REFINEMENT TO REDUCE MORPHOLOGICAL IMPACTS: A CASE STUDY OF PANAMA CITY BEACH, FLORIDA, USA...... 3443 Luana Taiani, Lindino Benedet, Lucas Silveira, Stephen Keehn, Nicole Shap, Rafael Bonanata
WAVE RUN-UP OBSERVATIONS ON REVETMENTS WITH DIFFERENT POROSITIES ...... 3456 Stefan Schimmels, Michalis Vousdoukas, Dagmara Wziatek, Katharina Becker, Fabian Gier, Hocine Oumeraci
A NUMERICAL STUDY ON LONG-WAVE GENERATION DUE TO ATMOSPHERIC-PRESSURE VARIATION...... 3470 Taro Kakinuma, Kousuke Fukita
TOWARDS WAVE DISTURBANCE IN PORTS COMPUTED BY A DETERMINISTIC CONVOLUTION- TYPE MODEL ...... 3478 Hemming A. Schäffer
THEORETICAL AND NUMERICAL STUDY OF WAVE-CURRENT INTERACTION IN STRONGLY- SHEARED FLOWS ...... 3487 Zhifei Dong, James T. Kirby
RISK ASSESSMENT METHODOLOGY AT ISLA DEL CARMEN, MEXICO...... 3494 Mireille Escudero Castillo, Edgar Mendoza Baldwin, Rodolfo Silva Casarín
CHRONIC BEACH EROSION INDUCED BY COASTAL STRUCTURES IN CHELEM, YUCATÁN ...... 3507 M. Alejandra Lira-Pantoja, Alec Torres-Freyermuth, Christian M. Appendini, Diana Fernández, Paulo Salles, E. Tonatiuh Mendoza, José López, Adrián Pedrozo-Acuña
FAILURE MECHANISM OF KAMAISHI BREAKWATERS DUE TO THE GREAT EAST JAPAN EARTHQUAKE TSUNAMI ...... 3517 Taro Arikawa, Masaharu Sato, Kenichiro Shimosako, Iwao Hasegawa, Gyeong-Seon Yeom, Takashi Tomita
SHOALING OF NONLINEAR INTERNAL WAVES ON A UNIFORMLY SLOPING BEACH ...... 3530 Kei Yamashita, Taro Kakinuma, Keisuke Nakayama
THE INFLUENCE OF EXTREME EVENTS ON HYDRODYNAMICS AND SALINITIES IN THE WESER ESTUARY IN THE CONTEXT OF CLIMATE IMPACT RESEARCH ...... 3543 Anna C. Zorndt, Torsten Schlurmann, Iris Grabemann
VERIFICATION OF DESIGN LIFE EXPOSURE AND PERFORMANCE OF A BERM BREAKWATER...... 3555 David Todd, Amanda Blanksby, John Schepis
NUMERICAL INVESTIGATION OF TURBULENT BUBBLY FLOW UNDER BREAKING WAVES ...... 3563 James T. Kirby, Gangfeng Ma, Morteza Derakhti, Fengyan Shi
RIVERBED EVOLUTION OF UPPER PART OF YANGTZE ESTUARY AND ITS RESPONSE TO THE HYDRODYNAMIC CHANGES AT UPSTREAM ...... 3567 Hsin-Hung Chen, Ray-Yeng Yang, Ping-Chiao Kuo, Hwung-Hweng Hwung
MEASUREMENT AND MODELING OF THE INFLUENCE OF GRAIN SIZE AND PRESSURE GRADIENTS ON SWASH ZONE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT...... 3573 Ilya K. Othman, Tom E. Baldock, David P. Callaghan
SEA LEVEL RISE IMPACT ASSESSMENT AND MITIGATION ALTERNATIVES DEVELOPMENT FOR BALBOA ISLANDS, CITY OF NEWPORT BEACH, CALIFORNIA...... 3588 Ying Poon, Brett Sanders, Randy Mason, Robert Stein
BIOLUMINESCENCE IMAGING FOR MEASURING FLUID SHEAR DISTRUBUTIONS ...... 3598 Yasunori Watanabe, Jun Sakai, Yuta Mitobe, Yasuo Niida
BEACH MEMORY...... 3604 Turki Imen, Raúl Medina, Mauricio Gonzalez
INTEGRATED STUDY ON THE VELOCITY FIELD INDUCED BY PLUNGING BREAKERS...... 3611 Germán Rivillas-Ospina, Adrián Pedrozo-Acuña, Rodolfo Silva, Alec Torres-Freyermuth, Cesar Gutierrez
THE MORPHOLOGICAL RESPONSE OF BEACHES PROTECTED BY DIFFERENT BREAKWATER CONFIGURATIONS...... 3619 Carlo Lorenzoni, Matteo Postacchini, Alessandro Mancinelli, Maurizio Brocchini
SEDIMENT- AND MORPHODYNAMICS OF SHOREFACE NOURISHMENTS ALONG THE NORTH- HOLLAND COAST ...... 3634 Ben De Sonneville, Ad Van Der Spek
THE 2010 CHILEAN AND THE 2011 TOHOKU TSUNAMI WAVES IMPACT TO RIVERS IN THE TOHOKU REGION, JAPAN...... 3643 Hitoshi Tanaka, Nguyen Xuan Tinh
APPLYING AN ANALOGUE FOR A CONCEPTUAL MODEL FOR THE DEVELOPMENT OF A MEGA NOURISHMENT ...... 3654 Fernanda Achete, Arjen Luijendijk
LAGRANGIAN MEASUREMENTS OF TURBULENT DISSIPATION OVER A SHALLOW TIDAL FLAT FROM PULSE COHERENT ACOUSTIC DOPPLER PROFILERS ...... 3664 Julia C. Mullarney, Stephen M. Henderson
COASTAL HABITATS WITHIN FLOOD RISK ASSESSMENTS: ROLE OF THE 2D SPR APPROACH ...... 3676 Siddharth Narayan, Robert J. Nicholls, Ekaterina Trifonova, Mariana Filipova-Marinova, Iliyan Kotsev, Stoyan Vergiev, Susan Hanson, Derek Clarke
ICOASST – INTEGRATING COASTAL SEDIMENT SYSTEMS ...... 3685 Robert J. Nicholls, Andy Bradbury, Helene Burningham, Justin Dix, Michael Ellis, Jon French, Jim W. Hall, Harshinie U. Karunarathna, Jonathan Lawn, Shunqi Pan, Dominic E. Reeve, Benedict Rogers, Alejandro Souza, Peter K. Stansby, James Sutherland, Owen Tarrant, Michael Walkden, Richard Whitehouse
WAVE-INDUCED SETUP INSIDE PERMEABLE STRUCTURES...... 3700 Peter Wellens, Marcel Van Gent
WAVE MOTION NEAR A BREAKWATER ROUNDHEAD ...... 3714 Takahide Honda, Peter Wellens, Marcel Van Gent
A FEMDEM NUMERICAL MODEL STUDY OF RUBBLE-MOUND STRUCTURES ARMOURED WITH CONCRETE ARMOUR UNITS...... 3729 John-Paul Latham, Eleni Anastasaki, Jiansheng Xiang
TURBULENCE APPEARANCE AT THE BOTTOM OF A SOLITARY WAVE...... 3730 Paolo Blondeaux, Jan O. Pralits, Giovanna Vittori
WAVE OVERWASH OF VEGETATED DUNES ...... 3740 Christine Gralher, Nobuhisa Kobayashi, Kideok Do
INTERACTION OF IDEALIZED URBAN INFRASTRUCTURE AND LONG WAVES DURING RUN-UP AND ON-LAND FLOW PROCESS IN COASTAL REGIONS...... 3747 Nils Goseberg, Torsten Schlurmann
STABILITY OF RUBBLE MOUND BREAKWATERS IN SHALLOW WATER AND SURF ZONE : AN EXPERIMENTAL STUDY...... 3757 Guirec Prevot, Olivier Boucher, Maryline Luck, Michel Benoit
BREAKING WAVE KINEMATICS, LOCAL PRESSURES, AND FORCES ON A TRIPOD SUPPORT STRUCTURE...... 3768 Arndt Hildebrandt, Torsten Schlurmann
INTEGRATED DESIGN OF COASTAL PROTECTION WORKS FOR WENDUINE, BELGIUM ...... 3782 William Veale, Tomohiro Suzuki, Toon Verwaest, Koen Trouw, Tina Mertens
MODELLING INFRAGRAVITY WAVES AND CURRENTS ACROSS A FRINGING CORAL REEF...... 3792 Ap Van Dongeren, Ryan Lowe, Andrew Pomeroy, Duong Minh Trang, Dano Roelvink, Graham Symonds, Roshanka Ranasinghe
THE MODIFIED COASTAL STORM IMPULSE (COSI) PARAMETER AND QUANTIFICATION OF FRAGILITY CURVES FOR COASTAL DESIGN ...... 3802 David R. Basco, Nader Mahmoudpour
MODELING SURGE-DEPENDENT VEGETATION EFFECTS ON HURRICANE-GENERATED WAVES ...... 3815 Qin Chen, Haihong Zhao, Don Liu
TOPOGRAPHY-INDUCED FOCUSING OF RANDOM WAVES...... 3825 P. B. Smit, T. T. Janssen, T. H. C. Herbers
RECONNAISSANCE LEVEL STUDY MISSISSIPPI STORM SURGE BARRIER...... 3834 M. Van Ledden, A. J. Lansen, H. J. De Ridder, B. Edge
Volume 5
LAG EFFECTS IN MORPHODYNAMIC MODELLING OF ENGINEERING IMPACTS ...... 3846 Michiel A. F. Knaapen, David M. Kelly
DOWNFLOW BAFFLE BREAKWATERS LATEST DEVELOPMENTS AND LESSONS LEARNED...... 3854 Marianne Frese, Matthias Bleck, Michael Schöner
DUNE EROSION NEAR SEA WALLS: MODEL-DATA COMPARISON...... 3863 Pieter Van Geer, Bram De Vries, Ap Van Dongeren, Jaap Van Thiel De Vries
HYDRODYNAMICS OF THE CONDADO LAGOON ...... 3872 Alfredo Torruella
A FARM OF WAVE ACTIVATED BODIES FOR COASTAL PROTECTION PURPOSES ...... 3873 E. Angelelli, B. Zanuttigh
DEVELOPMENT OF DYNAMIC SEDIMENT BUDGET TO PREDICT FUTURE SHORELINE POSITIONS ON A SAND LIMITED SHORELINE IN LOUISIANA ...... 3887 Arpit Agarwal, Josh Carter, Matt Campbell, Hugo Bermudez
THE USE OF ADV IN WAVE FLUMES: GETTING MORE INFORMATION ABOUT WAVES...... 3899 Claudio F. Neves, Luiz Augusto M. Endres, Conceição Juana Fortes
RIDGE-RUNNEL MIGRATION ...... 3914 Jens Figlus, Nobuhisa Kobayashi, Christine Gralher
CHARACTERIZATION OF PROCESSES INVOLVED IN THE RESET OF A SUBTIDAL BAR...... 3929 Brice Blossier, Christophe Brière, J. A. Roelvink, D. J. R. Walstra
DUNE EROSION PHYSICAL, ANALYTICAL AND NUMERICAL MODELLING ...... 3944 Felice D’Alessandro, Giuseppe Roberto Tomasicchio, Fausta Musci, Andrea Ricca
WAVE ATTENUATION IN MANGROVE FORESTS; FIELD DATA OBTAINED IN TRANG, THAILAND...... 3955 Erik Horstman, Marjolein Dohmen-Janssen, Pedro Narra, Niels-Jasper Van Den Berg, Martijn Siemerink, Thorsten Balke, Tjeerd Bouma, Suzanne Hulscher
MODELLING OF A NEARSHORE PLACED SAND MOUND ...... 3970 Ernest R. Smith, Felice D’Alessandro, Giuseppe R. Tomasicchio, Joseph Z. Gailani
DESIGN OF A 3D PHYSICAL AND NUMERICAL EXPERIMENT ON FLOATING OFF-SHORE WIND TURBINES...... 3971 Giuseppe Roberto Tomasicchio, Elvira Armenio, Felice D’Alessandro, Nuno Fonseca, Spyros A. Mavrakos, Valery Penchev, Holger Schüttrumpf, Spyridon Voutsinas, Jens Kirkegaard, Palle M. Jensen
ELEVATED WATER LEVELS AT TRAINED RIVER ENTRANCES ON THE EAST COAST OF AUSTRALIA ...... 3984 Zai-Jin You, Peter Nielsen, David Hanslow, Tim Pritchard
FIELD SURVEY AND NUMERICAL ANALYSIS OF 2011 TOHOKU EARTHQUAKE TSUNAMI IN THE NORTHERN PART OF MIYAGI, JAPAN ...... 3995 Tomohiro Yasuda, Taro Kakinuma, Takashi Tamada, Gozo Tsujimoto
WAVE RUN-UP OBSERVATION AND 2DV NUMERICAL INVESTIGATION ON BEACHES PROTECTED BY STRUCTURES...... 4010 Renata Archetti, Maria Gabriella Gaeta
THE NUMERICAL INVESTIGATION OF WAVE GENERATION BY LOW SPEED WINDS ...... 4022 Ying-Po Liao, James M. Kaihatu
THE EFFECT OF DIFFRACTION ON THE REDISTRIBUTION OF WAVE ENERGY IN THE LEE OF AN OVERTOPPING TYPE WAVE ENEGRY CONVERTER ARRAY ...... 4032 Kieran Monk, Qingping Zou, Daniel Conley
TRANSPORT OF RESUSPENDED DREDGED SEDIMENT NEAR CORAL REEFS AT APRA HARBOR, GUAM...... 4045 Tahirih Lackey, Joseph Gailani, Sung-Chan Kim, David King, Debra Shafer
MODELLING MULTI-DECADAL SHORELINE VARIABILITY AND EVOLUTION...... 4059 Melissa A. Mole, Mark A. Davidson, Ian L. Turner, Kristen D. Splinter, Ian D. Goodwin, Andrew D. Short
THE WAVE RUN-UP SIMULATOR, THEORY AND FIRST PILOT TEST...... 4069 Jentsje Van Der Meer, Yvo Provoost, Gosse Jan Steendam
WAVE RUNUP PREDICTION FOR FLOOD MAPPING...... 4084 Jeffrey A. Melby, Norberto C. Nadal-Caraballo, Nobuhisa Kobayashi
WAVE OVERTOPPING AT BERM BREAKWATERS IN LINE WITH EUROTOP ...... 4099 Sigurdur Sigurdarson, Jentsje W. Van Der Meer
MATERIAL PLACEMENT IN THE NEARSHORE: LABORATORY AND NUMERICAL MODEL INVESTIGATION ...... 4114 Bradley D. Johnson, Ernest R. Smith
LONG WAVE EFFECTS ON BREAKING WAVES OVER FRINGING REEFS ...... 4128 John T. Goertz, James M. Kaihatu, Alex Sheremet, Ernest R. Smith, Jane M. Smith
SPATIAL MODELLING OF TANGIBLE AND INTANGIBLE LOSSES IN AN INTEGRATED RISK ANALYSIS...... 4136 Andreas Burzel, Dilani R. Dassanayake, Hocine Oumeraci
RIP CURRENTS ON A BARRED BEACH...... 4151 Andrea Ruju, Pablo Higuera, Javier L. Lara, Iñigo J. Losada, Giovanni Coco
A PROBABILISTIC APPROACH FOR THE WAVES GENERATED BY A SUBMARINE LANDSLIDE ...... 4161 Patrick J. Lynett, Arturo Jimenez Martinez
RESILIENCE TO EXTREME EVENTS ...... 4167 Lesley Ewing, Costas Synolakis
DESIGN OPTIMIZATION FOR A PASSIVE MESH SCREEN WAVE ABSORBER FOR THE CCOB ...... 4179 Christian Klinghammer, Pedro Lomónaco Tonda, Pablo Higuera Caubilla
DESTRUCTIVE WAVE OVERTOPPING AND WAVE RUN-UP TESTS ON GRASS COVERED SLOPES OF REAL DIKES...... 4189 Gosse Jan Steendam, Yvo Provoost, Jentsje Van Der Meer
A METHOD FOR THE SPATIAL ANALYSIS OF ANTHROPOGENIC PRESSURES IN SPANISH MARINE WATERS...... 4203 I. Moreno, I. Del Barrio, A. Lloret, A. Perez-Puyol
FLOOD PROTECTION DUNES – AN APPROACH FOR RELIABILITY ASSESSMENT BY MEANS OF FRAGILITY CURVES AS PART OF A RISK AND DAMAGE ANALYSIS...... 4217 A. Gruhn, D. Salecker, P. Fröhle, H. Schüttrumpf, F. Thorenz
COUPLED FLUIDITY/Y3D TECHNOLOGY AND SIMULATION TOOLS FOR NUMERICAL BREAKWATER MODELLING ...... 4226 Jiansheng Xiang, John-Paul Latham, Axelle Vire, Elena Anastasaki, Christopher C. Pain
FORCES INDUCED ON A VERTICAL BREAKWATER BY INCIDENT OBLIQUE WAVES...... 4235 Javier L. Lara, Pablo Higuera, María Maza, Manuel Del Jesus, Iñigo J. Losada, Gabriel Barajas
WAVE ATTENUATION MODELLING BY SUBMERGED VEGETATION: ECOLOGICAL AND ENGINEERING ANALYSIS...... 4245 Maria Maza, Javier L. Lara, Barbara Ondiviela, Inigo J. Losada
FUTURE EXTREME WAVES AT THE GERMAN BALTIC SEA COAST DERIVED FROM REGIONAL CLIMATE MODEL RUNS...... 4255 C. Schlamkow, N. Dreier, P. Fröhle, D. Salecker
A MULTIPLE-SIZED TRANSPORT FORMULA FOR NONUNIFORM SEDIMENTS UNDER CURRENT AND WAVES...... 4262 Weiming Wu, Qianru Lin
RELIABILITY ANALYSIS AND BREACH MODELLING OF SEA/ ESTUARY DIKES AND COASTAL DUNES IN AN INTEGRATED RISK ANALYSIS...... 4263 Marie Naulin, Andreas Kortenhaus, Hocine Oumeraci
FULL SCALE IMPACT TESTS OF AN OVERTOPPING BORE ON A VERTICAL WALL IN THE LARGE WAVE FLUME (GWK) IN HANNOVER ...... 4277 Julien De Rouck, Koen Van Doorslaer, Tom Versluys, Karunya Ramachandran, Stefan Schimmels, Matthias Kudella, Koen Trouw
RESEARCH ON STABILITY OF OPENING SECTION AT BAYMOUTH BREAKWATER...... 4290 Junichiro Sakunaka, Taro Arikawa
NONLINEAR BEHAVIOUR OF TSUNAMI-LIKE SOLITARY WAVE OVER SUBMERGED IMPERMEABLE STRUCTURES OF FINITE WIDTH ...... 4303 Agnieszka Strusinska-Correia, Hocine Oumeraci
TO THE EFFECTIVENESS OF COASTAL AND FLOOD PROTECTION STRUCTURES UNDER TERMS OF CHANGING CLIMATE CONDITIONS ...... 4317 Peter Fröhle
WAVE OVERTOPPING AT DYKES WITH TOPPED VERTICAL WALL - IMPACTS OF OBLIQUE WAVE ATTACK ...... 4328 Nils B. Kerpen, Torsten Schlurmann
RISK-BASED LIFE CYCLE MIM STRATEGY FOR COASTAL STRUCTURES – EFFECT OF PRE- EXISTING DAMAGES ON FAILURE PROBABILITY – ...... 4336 Nannina Horstmann, Kerstin Hinze, Stefan Schimmels, Hocine Oumeraci
MODELLING WAVE-INDUCED RESIDUAL PORE PRESSURE AND DEFORMATION OF SAND FOUNDATIONS UNDERNEATH CAISSON BREAKWATERS...... 4351 Hisham El Safti, Matthias Kudella, Hocine Oumeraci
EFFECTS OF WAVE BREAKING AND BEACH SLOPE ON TOE SCOUR IN FRONT OF A VERTICAL SEAWALL ...... 4367 Qingping Zou, Zhong Peng, Pengzhi Lin
COASTAL FLOOD RISK: THE IMPORTANCE OF INTANGIBLE LOSSES AND THEIR INTEGRATION...... 4374 D. R. Dassanayake, A. Burzel, H. Oumeraci
RELIABILITY ASSESSMENT OF A COASTAL DIKE AND DUNE SYSTEM AT THE SOUTH OF FALSTER, DENMARK ...... 4385 Andreas Kortenhaus, David Schürenkamp, Thorsten Piontkowitz, Hocine Oumeraci
INVESTIGATING THE BEACH PREDICTIONS OF A NEW LONG-TERM NUMERICAL MORPHOLOGICAL MODEL – A CARIBBEAN CONTEXT ...... 4400 Deborah Villarroel-Lamb
HYDRAULIC STABILITY OF COASTAL STRUCTURES MADE OF GEOTEXTILE SAND CONTAINERS (GSCS): EFFECT OF ENGINEERING PROPERTIES OF GSCS ...... 4415 Darshana T. Dassanayake, Hocine Oumeraci
LONG TERM PERFORMANCE OF A SUBMERGED COASTAL CONTROL STRUCTURE: A CASE STUDY OF THE NARROWNECK MULTI-FUNCTIONAL ARTIFICIAL REEF ...... 4429 Angus Jackson, Rodger Tomlinson, Bobbie Corbett, Darrell Strauss
OPTIMIZATION OF OPERATIONALITY THRESHOLDS USING A MANEUVER SIMULATOR. CASE STUDY: FLOATING GATE AT CAMPAMENTO SHIPYARD ...... 4442 Miguel Cabrerizo-Morales, Rafael Molina, Francisco De Los Santos, Alberto Camarero
DESIGN OF DETACHED BREAKWATERS FOR COASTAL PROTECTION: DEVELOPMENT AND APPLICATION OF AN ADVANCED NUMERICAL MODEL...... 4448 Theophanis V. Karambas
STUDY OF CLIFF SHORELINE EROSION ...... 4463 G. Gómez-Pina, J. J. Muñoz-Pérez, M. Figueres, J. M. Garrido, D. Ponce De León, A. Pérez, M. Velasco, S. Lizondo
SETTLEMENT MEASUREMENTS OPTIMISING CONSTRUCTION OF A BREAKWATER ON SOFT SOIL ...... 4473 Hadewych Verhaeghe, Luc Van Damme, Jan Goemaere, Evy Boone, Julien De Rouck
IMPROVING THE NAUTICAL ACCESS TO ZEEBRUGGE HARBOR: A MULTIDISCIPLINARY STUDY ...... 4487 Chantal Martens, Rosalia Delgado, Hadewych Verhaeghe, Toon Verwaest, Marc Willems
EXPERIMENTAL STUDY ON THE OVERTOPPING BEHAVIOUR OF STEEP SLOPES – TRANSITION BETWEEN MILD SLOPES AND VERTICAL WALLS...... 4497 Lander Victor, Peter Troch
PILOT PROJECT SAND GROYNES DELFLAND COAST...... 4520 R. Hoekstra, D. J. R. Walstra, C. S. Swinkels
SPATIAL DISTRIBUTION OF OVERTOPPING ...... 4532 Anestis Lioutas, Gregory M. Smith, Henk Jan Verhagen
ANALYSIS OF CURRENT PATTERNS IN COASTAL AREAS USING X-BAND RADAR IMAGES...... 4545 Cilia Swinkels, Herman Peters, Jos Van Heesen
PROCESS-BASED MODELING OF COASTAL DUNE DEVELOPMENT...... 4555 Martijn Muller, Dano Roelvink, Arjen Luijendijk, Sierd De Vries, Jaap Van Thiel De Vries
INCORPORATION OF CONTINENTAL AND URBAN RUN-OFF INTO A COASTAL CIRCULATION MODEL: APPLICATION TO THE CATALAN COAST ...... 4563 Maria Liste, Manel Grifoll, Ingrid Keupers, Jaak Monbaliu, Manuel Espino
2011 TOHOKU TSUNAMI RUNUP AND DEVASTATING DAMAGES AROUND YAMADA BAY, IWATE: SURVEYS AND NUMERICAL SIMULATION...... 4571 Akio Okayasu, Takenori Shimozono, Shinji Sato, Yoshimitsu Tajima, Haijiang Liu, Tomohiro Takagawa, Hermann M. Fritz
CONTROL OF THE SIX DEGREES OF FREEDOM OF A FLOATING BODY USING VIDEO IMAGING TECHNIQUES: MONITORING THE OPERATION OF FLOATING GATE OPENING AND CLOSTING AT CAMPAMENTO'S DRY DOCK (ALGECIRAS BAY, SPAIN) ...... 4585 Rafael Molina, Miguel A. Cabrerizo, Francisco De Los Santos, Alberto Camarero, Clara Matutano
DEVELOPMENT AND FIELD VALIDATION OF A 2DH CURVILINEAR STORM IMPACT MODEL ...... 4586 Dano Roelvink, Guus Stelling, Bas Hoonhout, Johan. Risandi, Walter Jacobs, Davide Merli
WHAT DETERMINES THE WAVELENGTH OF SELF-ORGANIZED SHORELINE SAND WAVES? ...... 4600 Albert Falqués, Niels Van Den Berg, Francesca Ribas, Miquel Caballeria
ASSESSMENT OF COASTAL DEVELOPMENT IMPACTS ON CORAL ECOSYSTEMS IN NAIBAND BAY, THE PERSIAN GULF...... 4612 Azadeh Razavi Arab, Afshin Danehkar, S. Abbas Haghshenas, Gita B. Ebrahimi
COASTAL ENGINEERING EDUCATION AND COASTAL MODELS ...... 4620 J. William Kamphuis
NONLINEAR WAVE PRESSURES GIVEN BY EXTREME WAVES ON AN UPRIGHT BREAKWATER: THEORY AND EXPERIMENTAL VALIDATION...... 4627 Alessandra Romolo, Felice Arena
A DEMOUNTABLE WAVE ABSORBER FOR WAVE FLUMES AND BASINS ...... 4642 Simon Tiedeman, William Allsop, Viviana Russo, Andy Brown
FULLY NONLINEAR BOUSSINESQ-TYPE MODELLING OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVE TRANSFORMATION OVER A LOW-SLOPING BEACH...... 4652 Marion Tissier, Philippe Bonneton, Gerben Ruessink, Fabien Marche, Florent Chazel, David Lannes
COMPARISON OF 2D AND 3D LARGE SCALE MORPHOLOGICAL MODELING OF OFFSHORE WIND FARMS USING HPC...... 4660 Elizabeth Christie, Ming Li, Charles Moulinec
REDUCING SILTATION IN THE JUIST MARINA IDENTIFICATION OF SEDIMENT TRANSPORT MECHANISMS BY IN SITU MEASUREMENTS AND EVALUATION OF CONSTRUCTIONAL MEASURES USING NUMERICAL MODELLING...... 4667 Jan Saalbach, Anna Zorndt, Knut Krämer, Torsten Schlurmann
PREDICTION OF WAVE FORCE ACTING ON HORIZONTAL PLATE ABOVE STILL WATER LEVEL ...... 4668 Susumu Araki, Ichiro Deguchi
HOW TO WEIGH COASTAL HAZARD AGAINST ECONOMIC CONSEQUENCE...... 4680 David Wainwright, David Callaghan, Ruben Jongejan, Roshanka Ranasinghe, Peter Cowell
HAWAII HURRICANE WAVE AND SURGE MODELING AND FAST FORECASTING ...... 4681 Jane McKee Smith, Andrew B. Kennedy, Joannes J. Westerink, Alexandros A. Taflanidis, Kwok Fai Cheung
NUMERICAL MODELLING OF HYDRODYNAMICS AND SEDIMENT TRANSPORT IN THE SURF ZONE : A SENSITIVITY STUDY WITH DIFFERENT TYPES OF NUMERICAL MODELS ...... 4691 Koen Trouw, Nicolas Zimmermann, Mieke Mathys, Rosalia Delgado, Dano Roelvink
WAVE - INDUCED DEVICES FOR THE OXYGENATION OF DEEP LAYER: A PHYSICAL INVESTIGATION ...... 4703 Alessandro Antonini, Maria Gabriella Gaeta, Alberto Lamberti
EXPERIMENTAL STUDY ON THE EFFECTS OF THE OFFSHORE NOURISHMENT USING THE COASER SANDS WITH THE CROSS-SHORE SEASONAL CHANGE...... 4713 Yoko Shibutani, Yuhei Matsubara, Masamitsu Kuroiwa, Noriko Yao
COUPLED 3D MODELING OF TURBIDITY MAXIMUM DYNAMICS IN THE LOIRE ESTUARY, FRANCE ...... 4728 Régis Walther, Julien Schaguene, Luc Hamm, Eric David
SPH MODELING OF MEAN VELOCITY CIRCULATION IN A RIP CURRENT SYSTEM...... 4739 Rozita Jalali Farahani, Robert A. Dalrymple, Alexis Hérault, Giuseppe Bilotta
THE INTERACTION BETWEEN SHORT OCEAN SWELL AND TRANSIENT LONG WAVES: DISSIPATIVE AND NONLINEAR EFFECTS...... 4754 James M. Kaihatu, Deirdre Devery, Richard J. Erwin, John T. Goertz
ADAPTING COASTS TO CLIMATIC FUTURES. AN AUSTRALIAN PERSPECTIVE ...... 4765 Marcello Sano, Scott Baum, Marcus Bussey, Bill Carter, Florence Crick, Aliasghar Golshani, Darryl Low Choy, Russell Richards, Anne Roiko, Silvia Serrao-Neumann, Kristen Splinter, Tim Smith, Rodger Tomlinson
NUMERICAL AND EXPERIMENTAL DESCRIPTION OF THE FLOW, BOUNDARY LAYER AND BED EVOLUTION IN BORE-DRIVEN SWASH ON A COARSE SEDIMENT BEACH ...... 4777 Riccardo Briganti, Nicholas Dodd, Dubravka Pokrajac, Tom O’Donoghue
VULNERABILITY OF COASTAL STRUCTURES WITH FUSE ELEMENTS...... 4787 J. Abanades, A. Campos, C. Castillo, R. Molina
A LABORATORY AND FIELD STUDY ON 2DH SPECTRAL WAVE TRANSFORMATION IN MUDDY ENVIRONMENTS...... 4788 Mohsen Soltanpour, S. Abbas Haghshenas, Tomoya Shibayama
APPLICATION OF GPU SMOOTH PARTICLE HYDRODYNAMICS: WAVE RUNUP AND OVERTOPPING ON COMPOSITE SLOPES ...... 4792 Billy L. Edge, Margery F. Overton, Robert A. Dalrymple, Alexis. Hérault, Giuseppe Bilotta, M. Onur Kurum, Kevin Gamiel
EFFECTS OF CROSS SHORE PROFILES ON THE SUSTAINABLE DESIGN OF COASTAL STRUCTURES...... 4802 Akram Soliman, Saad Abdelrahman, Moheb Iskander, Nabil Ismail
Author Index