33rd Conference on Coastal Engineering 2012 Santander, Spain 1-6 July 2012 Volume 1 of 5 Editors: Patrick Lynett Jane McKee Smith ISBN: 978-1-62993-122-7 Printed from e-media with permission by: Curran Associates, Inc. 57 Morehouse Lane Red Hook, NY 12571 Some format issues inherent in the e-media version may also appear in this print version. Copyright© (2012) by International Conference on Coastal Engineering (ICCE) All rights reserved. Printed by Curran Associates, Inc. (2013) For permission requests, please contact International Conference on Coastal Engineering (ICCE) at the address below. International Conference on Coastal Engineering (ICCE) c/o Patrick Lynett 3620 South Vermont Avenue Los Angeles CA 90089-2531 KAP 224D Phone: (213) 740-3133 Fax: (213) 744-1426 [email protected] Additional copies of this publication are available from: Curran Associates, Inc. 57 Morehouse Lane Red Hook, NY 12571 USA Phone: 845-758-0400 Fax: 845-758-2634 Email: [email protected] Web: www.proceedings.com TABLE OF CONTENTS Volume 1 PROCESS–RESPONSE COASTAL BLUFF RECESSION MODEL, APPLICATION TO HOLDERNESS COAST (UK).......................................................................................................................................................................................................1 Ricardo Castedo, Carlos Paredes, William Murphy, James Lawrence SUBHARMONIC GENERATION OF TRANSVERSE OSCILLATIONS INDUCED BY INCIDENT REGULAR WAVES................................................................................................................................................................................................................2 Gang Wang, Jin-Hai Zheng SUITABILITY INDEX FOR COASTAL ENVIRONMENT RESTORATION IN ENCLOSED BAY -EFFECT OF HYPOXIC WATER AND WATER TEMPERATURE ON FISH IN TOKYO BAY, JAPAN- .............................................................11 Takehito Horie, Tomonari Okada, Akira Watanuki TWEED RIVER ENTRANCE AND BYPASS SEDIMENT DYNAMICS................................................................................................12 Ron Cox, Dan Howe INNOVATIVE BREAKWATERS DESIGN FOR WAVE ENERGY CONVERSION ...........................................................................20 D. Vicinanza, D. Stagonas, G. Müller, J. H. Nørgaard, T. L. Andersen ADAPTATION OF EXISTING BREAKWATERS TO SEA LEVEL RISE – OVERTOPPING EFFECT .........................................32 Dang Trinh Nguyen, Jérôme Brossard WAVE STATISTICS AND SPECTRAL ANALYSIS IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA (I.E. SICILY CHANNEL): 9 YEARS OF WAVE DATA MONITORING ......................................................................................................................43 E. Terrile, G. De Filippi, O. Spadaccini DRAG COEFFICIENT OF VEGETATION IN FLOW MODELING......................................................................................................44 Z. Hu, M. J. F. Stive, T. J. Zitman, T. Suzuki COASTAL ADAPTION IN THE DEVELOPING WORLD ......................................................................................................................45 Maril Geldenhuys, Mathij Van Ledden, Bas Jonkman, Marcel Stive, Rosh Ranasinghe DETECTION OF SHIP PATHS ON DOCKING AND QUAY OCCUPATION ANALYSIS BASED ON A VIDEO- IMAGERY SYSTEM AS SUPPORT TO PORT MANAGEMENT ..........................................................................................................46 Rebeca Gómez, Rafael Molina, Alberto Camerero, Francisco De Los Santos RECENT TSUNAMIS OBSERVED BY GPS BUOYS OFF THE PACIFIC COAST OF JAPAN .......................................................47 Hiroyasu Kawai, Makoto Satoh, Koji Kawaguchi, Katsumi Seki OPEN BOUNDARY CONDITIONS FOR FORCED WIND WAVES IN A COUPLED MODEL OF TIDE, SURGE AND WAVE .......................................................................................................................................................................................62 S. Y. Kim, Y. Matsumi, T. Yasuda, H. Mase A NEW METHOD OF APPROACHING EXTREME STORM EVENTS FOR DESIGN LEVEL OR RISK ANALYSIS........................................................................................................................................................................................................63 Gabriele Goennert, Birgit Gerkensmeier FIELD INVESTIGATION OF SIZE DISTRIBUTION OF SUSPENDED SEDIMENT USING LISST-100 ......................................76 Yoshiaki Kuriyama, Takayuki Suzuki, Shin-Ichi Yanagishima, Ken-Ichi Uzaki, Yoshio Ishino, Hikari Sakamoto MODEL FOR PREDICTING BEACH CHANGES USING CELLULAR AUTOMATON METHOD................................................87 M. Endo, A. Kobayashi, T. Uda, M. Serizawa, Y. Noshi COASTAL EROSION MANAGEMENT AT YUCATAN, MEXICO: ENGINEERING EFFORTS AND EXPERIENCES................................................................................................................................................................................................88 Mariana González Leija, Sergio Eb, Enrique Álvarez, Alfonso Solís, Carlos Wabi LONG TERM BEACH EROSION: MORPHODYNAMIC CASE STUDY IN MONT-ROIG BEACH, SPAIN ................................89 Jordi Galofré, Dolores Ortiz, Raúl Medina PRELIMINARY DESIGN OF DECISION SUPPORT SYSTEM FOR CHINESE SEADIKE SAFETY MANAGEMENT............................................................................................................................................................................................102 Qihua Zuo, Zhengping Zhou, Chi Wang, Feng Sun, Hongchuan Wang OPTIMIZATION OF THE WAVECAT WAVE ENERGY CONVERTER ..........................................................................................109 H. Fernández, G. Iglesias, R. Carballo, A. Castro, M. Sánchez, F. Taveira-Pinto WHEN DO WAVES BECOME TURBULENT?........................................................................................................................................117 José Beyá, William Peirson, Michael Banner MULTI-ENSEMBLE PROJECTION OF FUTURE COASTAL CLIMATE CHANGE......................................................................118 Nobuhito Mori, Tomoya Shimura, Sota Nakajo, Tomohiro Yasuda, Hajime Mase FIELD OBSERVATIONS OF SHORELINE CHANGE BY FREQUENCY-BANDED WAVE ENERGY FLUX AND FORESHORE SHAPE.........................................................................................................................................................................129 Takayuki Suzuki, Yoshiaki Kuriyama MORPHODYNAMIC OF BEACH SCARPS ON A MACROTIDAL COAST DURING EXCEPTIONAL WATER LEVEL EVENTS (NORMANDY, FRANCE).............................................................................................................................................130 Yoann Bonte, Franck Levoy COMBINING COASTAL DESIGN-FLOOD ELEVATIONS AND SEA LEVEL RISE PROJECTIONS........................................131 James Houston MORPHODYNAMICS OF A CARIBBEAN BEACH FRINGED BY A CORAL REEF.....................................................................137 Amaia Ruiz De Alegria-Arzaburu, Ismael Mariño-Tapia, Cecilia Enriquez, Rodolfo Silva-Casarín, Mariana González-Leija NEW BOUSSINESQ SYSTEM FOR NONLINEAR WATER WAVES.................................................................................................146 Yao Zhang, Andrew Kennedy, Joannes J. Westerink, Nishant Panda, Clint Dawson APPLICATION OF A NEW SAND TRANSPORT FORMULA WITHIN THE CROSS-SHORE MORPHODYNAMIC MODEL UNIBEST-TC..........................................................................................................................................157 Jebbe Van Der Werf, Harm Nomden, Jan Ribberink, Dirk-Jan Walstra, Wouter Kranenburg MEASUREMENT AND MODELING OF SOLITARY WAVE INDUCED BED SHEAR STRESS OVER A ROUGH BED..................................................................................................................................................................................................172 Jaya Kumar Seelam, Tom. E. Baldock LABORATORY MEASUREMENTS OF A STEADY BREAKER USING PIV AND BIV .................................................................187 Chang Lin, Shih-Chun Hsieh, I-Ju Lin, Kuang-An Chang, Rajkumar Raikar THE BRANCHING CHANNEL NETWORK IN THE YANGTZE ESTUARY....................................................................................196 Z. B. Wang, P. X. Ding OPEN TYPE QUAY STRUCTURES UNDER PROPELLER JETS.......................................................................................................208 Yalcin Yuksel, Selahattin Kayhan, Yesim Celikoglu, Kubilay Cihan BREAKS AND LONG TERM TRENDS OF TIDAL CHARACTERISTICS IN THE SOUTHERN GERMAN BIGHT .............................................................................................................................................................................................................220 Sabine Jenning, Hartmut Hein, Stephan Mai, Holger Schüttrumpf EFFICIENCY OF TIDAL TURBINE FARMS ..........................................................................................................................................228 Colin Christian, Ross Vennel AN INTEGRATED MODELING APPROACH FOR SIMULATING OIL SPILL AT THE STRAIT OF BOHAI SEA...................................................................................................................................................................................................................238 Jinhua Wang, Jinshan Zhang DAMAGE ALONG COASTS IN SENDAI BAY CAUSED BY THE 2011 GREAT TSUNAMI .........................................................247