Results of the MAXWAVE Project
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Sea State in Marine Safety Information Present State, Future Prospects
Sea State in Marine Safety Information Present State, future prospects Henri SAVINA – Jean-Michel LEFEVRE Météo-France Rogue Waves 2004, Brest 20-22 October 2004 JCOMM Joint WMO/IOC Commission for Oceanography and Marine Meteorology The future of Operational Oceanography Intergovernmental body of technical experts in the field of oceanography and marine meteorology, with a mandate to prepare both regulatory (what Member States shall do) and guidance (what Member States should do) material. TheThe visionvision ofof JCOMMJCOMM Integrated ocean observing system Integrated data management State-of-the-art technologies and capabilities New products and services User responsiveness and interaction Involvement of all maritime countries JCOMM structure Terms of Reference Expert Team on Maritime Safety Services • Monitor / review operations of marine broadcast systems, including GMDSS and others for vessels not covered by the SOLAS convention •Monitor / review technical and service quality standards for meteo and oceano MSI, particularly for the GMDSS, and provide assistance and support to Member States • Ensure feedback from users is obtained through appropriate channels and applied to improve the relevance, effectiveness and quality of services • Ensure effective coordination and cooperation with organizations, bodies and Member States on maritime safety issues • Propose actions as appropriate to meet requirements for international coordination of meteorological and related communication services • Provide advice to the SCG and other Groups of JCOMM on issues related to MSS Chair selected by Commission. OPEN membership, including representatives of the Issuing Services for GMDSS, of IMO, IHO, ICS, IMSO, and other user groups GMDSS Global Maritime Distress & Safety System Defined by IMO for the provision of MSI and the coordination of SAR alerts on a global basis. -
Headland Sediment Bypassing Processes
UNIVERSIDADE DE LISBOA FACULDADE DE CIÊNCIAS HEADLAND SEDIMENT BYPASSING PROCESSES Doutoramento em Geologia Especialidade em Geodinâmica Externa Mónica Sofia Afonso Ribeiro Tese orientada por: Professor Doutor Rui Pires de Matos Taborda Doutora Aurora da Conceição Coutinho Rodrigues Bizarro Documento especialmente elaborado para a obtenção do grau de doutor 2017 UNIVERSIDADE DE LISBOA FACULDADE DE CIÊNCIAS HEADLAND SEDIMENT BYPASSING PROCESSES Doutoramento em Geologia Especialidade em Geodinâmica Externa Mónica Sofia Afonso Ribeiro Tese orientada por: Professor Doutor Rui Pires de Matos Taborda Doutora Aurora da Conceição Coutinho Rodrigues Bizarro Júri: Presidente: ● Doutora Maria da Conceição Pombo de Freitas Vogais: ● Doutor António Henrique da Fontoura Klein ● Doutor Óscar Manuel Fernandes Cerveira Ferreira ● Doutora Anabela Tavares Campos Oliveira ● Doutor César Augusto Canelhas Freire de Andrade ● Doutor Rui Pires de Matos Taborda Documento especialmente elaborado para a obtenção do grau de doutor Fundação para a Ciência e Tecnologia, no âmbito da Bolsa de Doutoramento com a referência SFRH/BD/79126/2011 2017 Em memória do meu irmão Luís Acknowledgments | Agradecimentos O doutoramento é um processo exigente, por vezes solitário, mas que só é possível com o apoio e a colaboração de outras pessoas e instituições. Portanto, resta-me agradecer a todos os que contribuíram para a conclusão deste trabalho. Em primeiro lugar agradeço aos meus orientadores, Rui Taborda e Aurora Bizarro, que têm acompanhado o meu trabalho desde os meus primeiros passos na Geologia Marinha, já lá vão 10 anos! A eles agradeço o incentivo para iniciar este projeto, o apoio demonstrado em todas as fases do trabalho, a confiança e a amizade. Ao Rui agradeço, em particular, a partilha e discussão de ideias e os desafios constantes que me permitiram evoluir. -
Estimation of Significant Wave Height Using Satellite Data
Research Journal of Applied Sciences, Engineering and Technology 4(24): 5332-5338, 2012 ISSN: 2040-7467 © Maxwell Scientific Organization, 2012 Submitted: March 18, 2012 Accepted: April 23, 2012 Published: December 15, 2012 Estimation of Significant Wave Height Using Satellite Data R.D. Sathiya and V. Vaithiyanathan School of Computing, SASTRA University, Thirumalaisamudram, India Abstract: Among the different ocean physical parameters applied in the hydrographic studies, sufficient work has not been noticed in the existing research. So it is planned to evaluate the wave height from the satellite sensors (OceanSAT 1, 2 data) without the influence of tide. The model was developed with the comparison of the actual data of maximum height of water level which we have collected for 24 h in beach. The same correlated with the derived data from the earlier satellite imagery. To get the result of the significant wave height, beach profile was alone taking into account the height of the ocean swell, the wave height was deduced from the tide chart. For defining the relationship between the wave height and the tides a large amount of good quality of data for a significant period is required. Radar scatterometers are also able to provide sea surface wind speed and the direction of accuracy. Aim of this study is to give the relationship between the height, tides and speed of the wind, such relationship can be useful in preparing a wave table, which will be of immense value for mariners. Therefore, the relationship between significant wave height and the radar backscattering cross section has been evaluated with back propagation neural network algorithm. -
North Pacific Ocean
468 ¢ U.S. Coast Pilot 7, Chapter 11 31 MAY 2020 Chart Coverage in Coast Pilot 7—Chapter 11 124° NOAA’s Online Interactive Chart Catalog has complete chart coverage 18480 http://www.charts.noaa.gov/InteractiveCatalog/nrnc.shtml 126° 125° Cape Beale V ANCOUVER ISLAND (CANADA) 18485 Cape Flattery S T R A I T O F Neah Bay J U A N D E F U C A Cape Alava 18460 48° Cape Johnson QUILLAYUTE RIVER W ASHINGTON HOH RIVER Hoh Head 18480 QUEETS RIVER RAFT RIVER Cape Elizabeth QUINAULT RIVER COPALIS RIVER Aberdeen 47° GRAYS HARBOR CHEHALIS RIVER 18502 18504 Willapa NORTH PA CIFIC OCEAN WILLAPA BAY South Bend 18521 Cape Disappointment COLUMBIA RIVER 18500 Astoria 31 MAY 2020 U.S. Coast Pilot 7, Chapter 11 ¢ 469 Columbia River to Strait of Juan De Fuca, Washington (1) This chapter describes the Pacific coast of the State (15) of Washington from the Washington-Oregon border at the ENCs - US3WA03M, US3WA03M mouth of the Columbia River to the northwesternmost Chart - 18500 point at Cape Flattery. The deep-draft ports of South Bend and Raymond, in Willapa Bay, and the deep-draft ports of (16) From Cape Disappointment, the coast extends Hoquiam and Aberdeen, in Grays Harbor, are described. north for 22 miles to Willapa Bay as a low sandy beach, In addition, the fishing port of La Push is described. The with sandy ridges about 20 feet high parallel with the most outlying dangers are Destruction Island and Umatilla shore. Back of the beach, the country is heavily wooded. -
Deep Ocean Wind Waves Ch
Deep Ocean Wind Waves Ch. 1 Waves, Tides and Shallow-Water Processes: J. Wright, A. Colling, & D. Park: Butterworth-Heinemann, Oxford UK, 1999, 2nd Edition, 227 pp. AdOc 4060/5060 Spring 2013 Types of Waves Classifiers •Disturbing force •Restoring force •Type of wave •Wavelength •Period •Frequency Waves transmit energy, not mass, across ocean surfaces. Wave behavior depends on a wave’s size and water depth. Wind waves: energy is transferred from wind to water. Waves can change direction by refraction and diffraction, can interfere with one another, & reflect from solid objects. Orbital waves are a type of progressive wave: i.e. waves of moving energy traveling in one direction along a surface, where particles of water move in closed circles as the wave passes. Free waves move independently of the generating force: wind waves. In forced waves the disturbing force is applied continuously: tides Parts of an ocean wave •Crest •Trough •Wave height (H) •Wavelength (L) •Wave speed (c) •Still water level •Orbital motion •Frequency f = 1/T •Period T=L/c Water molecules in the crest of the wave •Depth of wave base = move in the same direction as the wave, ½L, from still water but molecules in the trough move in the •Wave steepness =H/L opposite direction. 1 • If wave steepness > /7, the wave breaks Group Velocity against Phase Velocity = Cg<<Cp Factors Affecting Wind Wave Development •Waves originate in a “sea”area •A fully developed sea is the maximum height of waves produced by conditions of wind speed, duration, and fetch •Swell are waves -
Swell and Wave Forecasting
Lecture 24 Part II Swell and Wave Forecasting 29 Swell and Wave Forecasting • Motivation • Terminology • Wave Formation • Wave Decay • Wave Refraction • Shoaling • Rouge Waves 30 Motivation • In Hawaii, surf is the number one weather-related killer. More lives are lost to surf-related accidents every year in Hawaii than another weather event. • Between 1993 to 1997, 238 ocean drownings occurred and 473 people were hospitalized for ocean-related spine injuries, with 77 directly caused by breaking waves. 31 Going for an Unintended Swim? Lulls: Between sets, lulls in the waves can draw inexperienced people to their deaths. 32 Motivation Surf is the number one weather-related killer in Hawaii. 33 Motivation - Marine Safety Surf's up! Heavy surf on the Columbia River bar tests a Coast Guard vessel approaching the mouth of the Columbia River. 34 Sharks Cove Oahu 35 Giant Waves Peggotty Beach, Massachusetts February 9, 1978 36 Categories of Waves at Sea Wave Type: Restoring Force: Capillary waves Surface Tension Wavelets Surface Tension & Gravity Chop Gravity Swell Gravity Tides Gravity and Earth’s rotation 37 Ocean Waves Terminology Wavelength - L - the horizontal distance from crest to crest. Wave height - the vertical distance from crest to trough. Wave period - the time between one crest and the next crest. Wave frequency - the number of crests passing by a certain point in a certain amount of time. Wave speed - the rate of movement of the wave form. C = L/T 38 Wave Spectra Wave spectra as a function of wave period 39 Open Ocean – Deep Water Waves • Orbits largest at sea sfc. -
Waves and Tides the Preceding Sections Have Dealt with the Types Of
CHAPTER XIV Waves and Tides .......................................................................................................... Introduction The preceding sections have dealt with the types of motion in the ocean that bring about transport of water massesin a definite direction during a considerable length of time. They have also dealt with the random motion, the turbulence, which is superimposed upon the general flow. Besidesthese types, one has also to consider the oscillating motion characteristic of waves. In general, this motion manifests itself to the observer more by the riseand fall of the sea surface than by the motion of the individual water particles. Waves have attracted attention since before the beginning of recorded history, and in recent years they have been the subject of extensive theoretical studies. Surveys of our knowledge as to the character of ocean waves have been presented by Cornish (1912, 1934), Krtimmel (1911), Patton and Mariner (1932) and by Defant (1929). Lamb (1932) has discussed the hydrodynamic theories of waves, and Thorade (1931) has given a comprehensive review of the theoretical studies of ocean waves and has compiled a long list of literature covering the period from 1687 to 1930. Our understanding of the waves of the ocean, how they are formed and how they travel, is as yet by no means complete. The reason is, in the first place, that actual observations at sea are so difficult that the characteristicsof the waves cannot easily be determined. In the second place, the theories that serve to bring the observed sequence of events in nature into intimate connection with experience gained by other methods of study are still incomplete, particularly because most theories are based on classicalhydrodynamics, which deal with wave motion in an idealized fluid. -
Ocean Wave Forecasting at ECMWF
Ocean Wave Forecasting at ECMWF Jean-Raymond Bidlot Marine Aspects Section Predictability Division of the Research Department European Centre for Medium-range Weather Forecasts (E.C.M.W.F.) Reading, UK Slide 1 Ocean waves: We are dealing with wind generated waves at the surface of the oceans, from gentle to rough … Ocean wave Forecasting at ECMWF Slide 2 Ocean Waves Forcing: earthquake wind moon/sun Restoring: gravity surface tension Coriolis force 10.0 1.0 0.03 3x10-3 2x10-5 1x10-5 Frequency (Hz) Ocean wave Forecasting at ECMWF Slide 3 What we are dealing with? Water surface elevation, η Wave Period, T Wave Length, λ Wave Height, H Ocean wave Forecasting at ECMWF Slide 4 Wave Spectrum l The irregular water surface can be decomposed into (infinite) number of simple sinusoidal components with different frequencies (f) and propagation directions (θ ). l The distribution of wave energy among those components is called: “wave spectrum”, F(f,θ). Ocean wave Forecasting at ECMWF Slide 5 l Modern ocean wave prediction systems are based on statistical description of oceans waves (i.e. ensemble average of individual waves). l The sea state is described by the two-dimensional wave spectrum F(f,θ). Ocean Wave Modelling Ocean Wave Modelling Ocean wave Forecasting at ECMWF Slide 6 Ocean Wave Modelling l For example, the mean variance of the sea surface elevation η due to waves is given by: 〈η2〉 = F( f ,θ)dfdθ ∫∫ l The mean energy associated with those waves is: 2 energy= ρηw g l The statistical measure for wave height, called the significant wave height (Hs): 2 H s = 4 η The term significant wave height is historical as this value appeared to be well correlated with visual estimates of wave height from experienced observers. -
Remote Sensing
remote sensing Article Contribution of Remote Sensing Technologies to a Holistic Coastal and Marine Environmental Management Framework: A Review Badr El Mahrad 1,2,3,* , Alice Newton 3, John D. Icely 3,4 , Ilias Kacimi 2, Samuel Abalansa 3 and Maria Snoussi 5 1 Murray Foundation, Brabners LLP, Horton House, Exchange Street, Liverpool L2 3YL, UK 2 Laboratory of Geoscience, Water and Environment, (LG2E-CERNE2D), Department of Earth Sciences, Faculty of Sciences, Mohammed V University of Rabat, Rabat 10000, Morocco; [email protected]. 3 CIMA, FCT-Gambelas Campus, University of Algarve, 8005-139 Faro, Portugal; [email protected] (A.N.); [email protected] (J.D.I.); [email protected] (S.A.) 4 Sagremarisco, Apartado 21, 8650-999 Vila do Bispo, Portugal 5 Department of Earth Sciences, Faculty of Sciences, Mohammed V University of Rabat, Rabat 10000, Morocco; [email protected] * Correspondence: [email protected] Received: 1 May 2020; Accepted: 13 July 2020; Published: 18 July 2020 Abstract: Coastal and marine management require the evaluation of multiple environmental threats and issues. However, there are gaps in the necessary data and poor access or dissemination of existing data in many countries around the world. This research identifies how remote sensing can contribute to filling these gaps so that environmental agencies, such as the United Nations Environmental Programme, European Environmental Agency, and International Union for Conservation of Nature, can better implement environmental directives in a cost-effective manner. Remote sensing (RS) techniques generally allow for uniform data collection, with common acquisition and reporting methods, across large areas. Furthermore, these datasets are sometimes open-source, mainly when governments finance satellite missions. -
Statistics of Extreme Waves in Coastal Waters: Large Scale Experiments and Advanced Numerical Simulations
fluids Article Statistics of Extreme Waves in Coastal Waters: Large Scale Experiments and Advanced Numerical Simulations Jie Zhang 1,2, Michel Benoit 1,2,* , Olivier Kimmoun 1,2, Amin Chabchoub 3,4 and Hung-Chu Hsu 5 1 École Centrale Marseille, 13013 Marseille, France; [email protected] (J.Z.); [email protected] (O.K.) 2 Aix Marseille Univ, CNRS, Centrale Marseille, IRPHE UMR 7342, 13013 Marseille, France 3 Centre for Wind, Waves and Water, School of Civil Engineering, The University of Sydney, Sydney, NSW 2006, Australia; [email protected] 4 Marine Studies Institute, The University of Sydney, Sydney, NSW 2006, Australia 5 Department of Marine Environment and Engineering, National Sun Yat-Sen University, Kaohsiung 80424, Taiwan; [email protected] * Correspondence: [email protected] Received: 7 February 2019; Accepted: 20 May 2019; Published: 29 May 2019 Abstract: The formation mechanism of extreme waves in the coastal areas is still an open contemporary problem in fluid mechanics and ocean engineering. Previous studies have shown that the transition of water depth from a deeper to a shallower zone increases the occurrence probability of large waves. Indeed, more efforts are required to improve the understanding of extreme wave statistics variations in such conditions. To achieve this goal, large scale experiments of unidirectional irregular waves propagating over a variable bottom profile considering different transition water depths were performed. The validation of two highly nonlinear numerical models was performed for one representative case. The collected data were examined and interpreted by using spectral or bispectral analysis as well as statistical analysis. -
Random Wave Analysis
RANDOM WA VE ANALYSIS The goal of this handout is to consider statistical and probabilistic descriptions of random wave heights and periods. In design, random waves are often represented by a single characteristic wave height and wave period. Most often, the significant wave height is used to represent wave heights in a random sea. It is important to understand, however, that wave heights have some statistical variability about this representative value. Knowledge of the probability distribution of wave heights is therefore essential to fully describe the range of wave conditions expected, especially the extreme values that are most important for design. Short Term Statistics of Sea Waves: Short term statistics describe the probabilities of qccurrence of wave heights and periods that occur within one observation or measurement of ocean waves. Such an observation typically consists of a wave record over a short time period, ranging from a few minutes to perhaps 15 or 30 minutes. An example is shown below in Figure 1 for a 150 second wave record. @. ,; 3 <D@ Q) Q ® ®<V®®®@@@ (fJI@ .~ ; 2 "' "' ~" '- U)" 150 ~ -Il. Time.I (s) ;:::" -2 Figure 1. Example of short term wave record from a random sea (Goda, 2002) . ' Zero-Crossing Analysis The standard. method of determining the short-term statistics of a wave record is through the zero-crossing analysis. Either the so-called zero-upcrossing method or the zero downcrossing method may be used; the statistics should be the same for a sufficiently long record. Figure 1 shows the results from a zero-upcrossing analysis. In this case, the mean water level is first determined. -
Storm, Rogue Wave, Or Tsunami Origin for Megaclast Deposits in Western
Storm, rogue wave, or tsunami origin for megaclast PNAS PLUS deposits in western Ireland and North Island, New Zealand? John F. Deweya,1 and Paul D. Ryanb,1 aUniversity College, University of Oxford, Oxford OX1 4BH, United Kingdom; and bSchool of Natural Science, Earth and Ocean Sciences, National University of Ireland Galway, Galway H91 TK33, Ireland Contributed by John F. Dewey, October 15, 2017 (sent for review July 26, 2017; reviewed by Sarah Boulton and James Goff) The origins of boulderite deposits are investigated with reference wavelength (100–200 m), traveling from 10 kph to 90 kph, with to the present-day foreshore of Annagh Head, NW Ireland, and the multiple back and forth actions in a short space and brief timeframe. Lower Miocene Matheson Formation, New Zealand, to resolve Momentum of laterally displaced water masses may be a contributing disputes on their origin and to contrast and compare the deposits factor in increasing speed, plucking power, and run-up for tsunamis of tsunamis and storms. Field data indicate that the Matheson generated by earthquakes with a horizontal component of displace- Formation, which contains boulders in excess of 140 tonnes, was ment (5), for lateral volcanic megablasts, or by the lateral movement produced by a 12- to 13-m-high tsunami with a period in the order of submarine slide sheets. In storm waves, momentum is always im- of 1 h. The origin of the boulders at Annagh Head, which exceed portant(1cubicmeterofseawaterweighsjustover1tonne)in 50 tonnes, is disputed. We combine oceanographic, historical, throwing walls of water continually at a coastline.