Figures of Chapter 7: State and , by Gerhard Schmager, Peter Froehle, Dieter Schrader, Ralf Weisse, Sylvin Mueller-Navarra from the book

State and Evolution of the Baltic Sea, 1952 - 2005 A Detailed 50-Year Survey of Meteorology and Climate, Physics, Chemistry, Biology, and Marine Environment Editors: Rainer Feistel, Günther Nausch, Norbert Wasmund Wiley 2008

Figure 7.1 Schematic diagram of wind sea and

1

Figure 7.2 Characteristics of the in deep water and their transformation and deformation (surf) in shallow water

2

Figure 7.3: Schematic diagram of how wind sea state is composed of sinusoidal wave trains

3

Figure 7.4: Determination of the sea state parameters with the zero crossing method

4

Figure 7.5: Development of the sea state in case of offshore wind

5

Figure 7.6: Fetch on the open sea

6

Figure 7.7: Determining the fetch for westerly winds

7

Figure 7.8: Effective fetch (km*10) as a function of wind direction (from Scharnow 1990, p. 261).

8

Figure 7.9: Schematic diagram of the refraction of waves near an island

9

Figure 7.10: Positions with special sea state phenomena

10

Figure 7.11: Baltic Sea wave diagram

11

Figure 7.12: (dm) for westerly winds, 26 m/s (10 Bft) (from Schmager, 1979, p. 100)

12

Figure 7.13: Parametrized energy spectrum of the Baltic Sea for significant wave heights of 2 m, 3 m, 4 m, 5 m and 6 m

13

Figure 7.14: Wave Height Comparison of model data (Deutscher Wetterdienst) and measured data at the Arkona MARNET station

14

Figure 7.15: Height of the highest wave for a return interval of 50 years a) Winter b) Spring c) Summer d) Fall (from: Gidrometeorologiceskie uslovija šelfovoj zony morej SSSR 1983)

15

Figure 7.16: DWD (circle) and Weisse (star) Wave Climate Positions

16

Figure 7.17: Monthly means of significant wave heights

17

Figure 7.18: Monthly maxima of the significant wave heights

18

Figure 7.19: Maximum significant wave heights of the Baltic Sea

19

Figure 7.20a: Seasonal means of the (spring)

Figure 7.20b: Seasonal means of the significant wave height (summer)

20

Figure 7.20c: Seasonal means of the significant wave height (fall)

Figure 7.20d: Seasonal means of the significant wave height (winter)

21

Figure 7.21: Comparison of measured and calculated wave heights at different locations in the southern part of the Baltic Sea (Fröhle et al.. 2006. after Fröhle & Schlamkow. 2004) a) Boergerende b) Arkona c) Kuehlungsborn d) Goehren

22

Figure 7.22: Extreme significant wave heights [m] off the coast of Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania (probability of exceedance p = 0.004). Fröhle et al.. 2006

23

Figure 7.23: Wind and Wave Conditions over the Baltic Sea on 14 February 1956 (from Paszkiewicz. 1989 - p. 132) a) Wind speed b) Sea state (solid line - average wave height in meters dashed line - average wave period in seconds)

24

Figure 7.24: Forecast of the significant wave height of the DWD

25

Figure 7.25: Wind and wave conditions during cyclone "Gudrun/Erwin" Measurements (solid line) Model data (dashed line) a) Darss Sill Station (Lat 54°42'N. Lon 12°42'E) b) Arkona MARNET Station (Lat 54°53'N. Lon 13°52'E)

26

Figure 7.26: Water level [cm] at mareograph Wismar 07.06.1998, 0 UTC - 27.06.1998, 0 UTC, dotted line: measurements, solid line: tidal synthesis (63 constituents)

27

Figure 7.27 a: Tidal acceleration [10-9m s-2] for a rigid Earth model, east component, central Baltic Sea (20°E, 59° N) in January 1997

Figure 7.27 b: As Fig. 7.27 a, north component

28

Figure 7.28: Form number {(O1+K1)/(M2+S2)}

29

Figure 7.29: Intensity coefficient [mm]

30

Figure 7.30a: Computed phases of M2 (left) and O1 (right) referred to the passage of the Moon through the Greenwich Meridian

31

Figure 7.30b: Computed phases of M2 (left) and O1 (right) referred to the passage of the Moon through the Greenwich Meridian

32