Figures of Chapter 7: Sea State and Tides, by Gerhard Schmager, Peter Froehle, Dieter Schrader, Ralf Weisse, Sylvin Mueller-Navarra from the book State and Evolution of the Baltic Sea, 1952 - 2005 A Detailed 50-Year Survey of Meteorology and Climate, Physics, Chemistry, Biology, and Marine Environment Editors: Rainer Feistel, Günther Nausch, Norbert Wasmund Wiley 2008 Figure 7.1 Schematic diagram of wind sea and swell 1 Figure 7.2 Characteristics of the sea state in deep water and their transformation and deformation (surf) in shallow water 2 Figure 7.3: Schematic diagram of how wind sea state is composed of sinusoidal wave trains 3 Figure 7.4: Determination of the sea state parameters with the zero crossing method 4 Figure 7.5: Development of the sea state in case of offshore wind 5 Figure 7.6: Fetch on the open sea 6 Figure 7.7: Determining the fetch for westerly winds 7 Figure 7.8: Effective fetch (km*10) as a function of wind direction (from Scharnow 1990, p. 261). 8 Figure 7.9: Schematic diagram of the refraction of waves near an island 9 Figure 7.10: Positions with special sea state phenomena 10 Figure 7.11: Baltic Sea wave diagram 11 Figure 7.12: Wave height (dm) for westerly winds, 26 m/s (10 Bft) (from Schmager, 1979, p. 100) 12 Figure 7.13: Parametrized energy spectrum of the Baltic Sea for significant wave heights of 2 m, 3 m, 4 m, 5 m and 6 m 13 Figure 7.14: Wave Height Comparison of model data (Deutscher Wetterdienst) and measured data at the Arkona MARNET station 14 Figure 7.15: Height of the highest wave for a return interval of 50 years a) Winter b) Spring c) Summer d) Fall (from: Gidrometeorologiceskie uslovija šelfovoj zony morej SSSR 1983) 15 Figure 7.16: DWD (circle) and Weisse (star) Wave Climate Positions 16 Figure 7.17: Monthly means of significant wave heights 17 Figure 7.18: Monthly maxima of the significant wave heights 18 Figure 7.19: Maximum significant wave heights of the Baltic Sea 19 Figure 7.20a: Seasonal means of the significant wave height (spring) Figure 7.20b: Seasonal means of the significant wave height (summer) 20 Figure 7.20c: Seasonal means of the significant wave height (fall) Figure 7.20d: Seasonal means of the significant wave height (winter) 21 Figure 7.21: Comparison of measured and calculated wave heights at different locations in the southern part of the Baltic Sea (Fröhle et al.. 2006. after Fröhle & Schlamkow. 2004) a) Boergerende b) Arkona c) Kuehlungsborn d) Goehren 22 Figure 7.22: Extreme significant wave heights [m] off the coast of Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania (probability of exceedance p = 0.004). Fröhle et al.. 2006 23 Figure 7.23: Wind and Wave Conditions over the Baltic Sea on 14 February 1956 (from Paszkiewicz. 1989 - p. 132) a) Wind speed b) Sea state (solid line - average wave height in meters dashed line - average wave period in seconds) 24 Figure 7.24: Forecast of the significant wave height of the DWD 25 Figure 7.25: Wind and wave conditions during cyclone "Gudrun/Erwin" Measurements (solid line) Model data (dashed line) a) Darss Sill Station (Lat 54°42'N. Lon 12°42'E) b) Arkona MARNET Station (Lat 54°53'N. Lon 13°52'E) 26 Figure 7.26: Water level [cm] at mareograph Wismar 07.06.1998, 0 UTC - 27.06.1998, 0 UTC, dotted line: measurements, solid line: tidal synthesis (63 constituents) 27 Figure 7.27 a: Tidal acceleration [10-9m s-2] for a rigid Earth model, east component, central Baltic Sea (20°E, 59° N) in January 1997 Figure 7.27 b: As Fig. 7.27 a, north component 28 Figure 7.28: Form number {(O1+K1)/(M2+S2)} 29 Figure 7.29: Intensity coefficient [mm] 30 Figure 7.30a: Computed phases of M2 (left) and O1 (right) referred to the passage of the Moon through the Greenwich Meridian 31 Figure 7.30b: Computed phases of M2 (left) and O1 (right) referred to the passage of the Moon through the Greenwich Meridian 32.