A Survey of Andean Ascents: 19614970

Part II. , , Argentina.

EVELIO ECHEVARR~A

NCLUDED in this second part are the Andean areas where the oldest mountain ascents in history were made, dating back at least to the 15th century, when highlanders of the Inca empire climbed peaks over 22,000 feet above the high plateaus of South America. Besides, modern mountaineering was being practiced here, par- ticularly in Chile and Argentina, almost at the beginning of the present century. Therefore, with such intense activity, only first ascents have been listed in some areas, but for those which are visited only by sporadic expeditions, complete lists of ascents have been supplied. Once again I extend my grateful appreciation to the Editor of this journal, H. Adams Carter, not only for having directed this work, but also for his invaluable contribution to mountaineering by securing and pub- lishing in the American Alpine Journal, year after year, expedition ac- counts the world over. It is safe to assume that if this were not done, a good many expeditions would remain unrecorded. I am also grateful to mountaineers who over the years have maintained with me a constant cor- respondence: Messrs. D. F. 0. Dangar and R. N. Gallop (Great Britain), Olaf Hartmann (Germany), M. Fantin and A. Bonicelli (Italy), I. Yoshizawa and T. Kawakami (Japan) and A. Brignone, editor of La Montana (Argentina). A number of Chilean mountaineers have con- tributed valuable information and I express my recognition to Sefiores Humberto Barrera (editor of Revista Andina), Gaston San Roman (ed- itor of Anuario de MontaSa) and the mountain writer Maximino Fer- nandez. Mention should also be made of Jose Ambrus, from whose effi- cient yearly lists of Chilean ascents I have borrowed heavily, and of B. Gonzalez, R. Martinez, M. Bazan, L. Allende, H. Vasquez and E. von Borries. This survey was compiled mostly from mountaineering and scientific literature, as well as from correspondence with mountaineers. The ab- breviations used to represent sources of information are as follows:

AAJ-American Alpine Journal, New York.

71 72 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL

ACAE-Club Andino Bariloche, Argentina, Anuario. ACAM-Club Andino Mercedario, Argentina, Amrario (also Rev&a, as the Anuario was named in its first numbers). AF-Federation de Andinismo de Chile, Anuario de Montuiia. AJ-Alphe Journal, London. And.-Deutscher Andenverein, Santiago, Chile, Andina. LM-Federation Argentina de Montaiiismo y Afines, La Montatia. MW-Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, Mountain World. PV-Planinske zveze Slovenija, Yugoslavia, Planinski Vestnik. RA-Club Andino de Chile, Revista Andina. RM-Club Alpino Italiano, Rivista Mensile. S-Japanese Alpine Club, Snngaku. Bonicelli, op. cit., Annibale Bonicelli, La spedizione de1 CA1 di Bergamo alla Cordillera Real nelle Ande Boliviane (Bergamo, Italy, 1969). p.c.. personal communication.

Names of peaks preceded by the word unnamed are unofficial ones. Heights in meters have been transposed into feet with the aid of the con- version table of the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research. Month, day and year, in that order, are given whenever possible. In a few cases, omissions have been corrected by the insertion of an item with a letter attached to the number of the entry, such as 1127a: the letter bears no connection between the mountains both using the same number. After the name of each peak and its height, each ascent is listed following an ordinal number. If a peak is listed here with an ascent other than the first, it means that previous climbs have already been listed in “A Survey of Andean Ascents,” AAJ 1963 (pp. 425-452). Footnotes or a revised list are added in the case of ascents that were not covered at that time. It is not possible for a work of this kind to be complete or wholly accurate. I apologize beforehand for errors and omissions. Please send corrections to the writer, c/o American Alpine Journal, 113 East 90th St., New York, N.Y., USA 10028.

Naming of peaks. I have already covered in Part I of this survey (AAJ 1973) the problems that unsuitable peak names have created in the of South America. The practice of naming new mountains in coun- tries like Bolivia and Chile differ greatly from those like, say, . For some reason or other, new mountain names in the former two countries have been far more suitably chosen by mountaineers. In a small measure, the problems mentioned previously have also appeared in Bolivia and Chile, but this has been the exception rather than the rule. In Bolivia, the conscientious work done by foreign and local mountaineers alike has prevented much damage. Expeditions like those of the Bangor University College (1966) and the Bonicelli Bergamo party (1969), both to the A SURVEY OF ANDEAN ASCENTS 73

Cordillera Real, are to be commended for their sound choice of new names. Besides, several Bolivian mountaineering leaders have shown firm- ness in dealing with inappropriate names. In Chile, local climbers have shown on the average an inclination to christen peaks with descriptive names, which are usually the most appropriate ones. As of late 1973, a regulating board on geographic names was set up within the Instituto Geogrifico Militar and several mountaineers were invited to join. One can only expect that Argentina will follow these examples, the more so if we consider that recently imposed names in the central and Patagonian areas of the country are of a rather poor quality. Finally, regarding the spelling of Indian mountain names, I have used the following simple policy: a) if an Indian sound can be represented by a Spanish letter, then this character has been used; b) if an Indian sound can not be represented by a Spanish character, then the spelling used by climbers in their reports has been kept. Up to date corrections have also been introduced.

BOLIVIA Cordillera de Apolobamba Peaks located on the Peruvian-Bolivian border have already been included in the Peruvian chapter (see AAJ 1973, pp. 401-402). 729. CoIolo (Ccachuca), 5915 m., 19,405 ft. 2. K. Miyazaki, T. Ohta, S. Okajima, 5.20.1965. S 1967, pp. 14-18 and AA.! 1966, p. 182. 730. Huelancalloc, 5836 m., 19,145 ft. 2. N. Maruyama, I. Yoshizawa, 8.13.1961. S 1962, pp. 21-65 and AAJ 1962, p. 254. 3. Same information as for #729, but 6.2.1965. 731. Coruquini, 5810 m., 19,062 ft. 1. K. Miyazaki, H. Ninomiya, 65.1965. S 1967, pp. 14-18 and AAJ 1966, pp. 182-3. 732. unnmned (“Huanaco”), 5750 m (?), 18,865 ft. W. Hufnagel, 0. Reus, 6.8.1968. AAI 1969, p. 443. 733. C’unisuya, 5706 m., 18,718 ft. 1. N. Maruyama, S. Nakagawa, 8.8.1961. S 1962, pp. 21-65 and AAJ 1962, p. 254. 2. K. Miyazaki, T. Ohta, S. Okajima, 6.1.1965. S 1967, pp. 14-18 and AAJ 1966, pp. 182-3. 734. Cuvuyuni, 5702 m., 18,707 ft. 1. .I. Amari, N. Maruyama, S. Nakagawa, 8.11.1961. S 1962, pp. 21-65 and AAJ 1962, p. 254. 2. Same information as for 733, 2nd ascent, but 5.31.1965. 735. Culisuyu, 5702 m., 18,707 ft. 1. Same information as for 733, 2nd ascent. 736. unnamed (“Presidente”), 5700 m (?), 18,701 ft. 1. R. Cots, J. Frontera, 7.21.1969. AA./ 1970, pp. 171-2. (Note.- according to source quoted, this peak corresponds to point 5640 m., of map of British Imperial College Expedition; see also AA/ 1960, pp. 37-42). 74 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL

737. unnamed (Taro), 5700 m (?), 18,701 ft. 1. E. Hoffman, H. Wolf, 6.11.1968. AAJ 1969, p. 443. 738. Corohuuri, 5668 m., 18,597 ft. 1. T. Ohta, S. Okajima, 6.5.1965. S 1967, pp. 14-18 and AAJ 1966, pp. 182-3. 739. Acumuni, 5666 m., 18,588 ft. 1. K. Kurachi, H. Nakajima, T. Nakamura, 8.10.1961. S 1962, pp. 21-65 and AAJ 1962, p. 254. 2. Same information as for #733, 2nd ascent, but 5.30.1965. 740. unnamed (Cuchillo I), 5655 m., 18,548 ft. 1. K. Miyazaki, S. Okajima, 5.28.1965. S 1967, pp. 14-18 and AAJ 1966, pp. 182-3. 741. unnamed (“Manresa”), 5655 m., 18,548 ft. 1. R. Cots, R. Majo, 8.16.1969. AAJ 1970, pp. 171-2. 742. unnamed (“Monserrat Norte”), 5655 m., 18,548 ft. 1. A. Bahi, J. Montfort, 7.17.1969. AAJ 1970, pp. 171-2. 743. Nevudo Curuc, 5650 m., 18,537 ft. 1. Same information as for #742, but 7.21.1969. 744. unnamed (“Apolo XI”), 5650 m., 18,537 ft. 1. R. Cots, J. Fron- tera, 7.21.1969. AAJ 1970, pp. 171-2. 745. Nevado Sulficu, 5635 m., 18,486 ft. 1. Same information as for #742, but 7.21.1969. 746. Cutuntica Oeste (Catantica I), 5630 m., 18,471 ft. 1. K. Gross, H. Wolf, 5.24.1968. AAJ 1969, p. 443. 2. J. Gorter, D. Hasse, W. Helbig, K. Dorschel, W. Schiemann, G. Schiitte, 5.30.1969. AAJ 1970, p. 174. 747. Cutunticu Central (Catantica III), 5610 m., 18,406 ft. I. K. Gross, D. Hain, 5.27.1968. AAJ 1969, p. 443. 748. Nevudo Lloco Lloco, 5605 m., 18,388 ft. 1. J. Montfort, 7.17. 1969. AAJ 1970, p. 172. 749. Yunuorco, 5600 m., 18,373 ft. 1. H. Nakajima, T. Nakamura, K. Kurachi, 8.12.1961. S 1962, pp. 21-65 and AA.! 1962, p. 254. 750. Cutunticu Este (Catantica IV), 5592 m., 18,346 ft. 1. E. Hof- mann, H. Wolf, 5.27.1968. AAJ 1969, p. 443. 751. Ascurani, 5580 m., 18,307 ft. 2. A. Bahi, J. Montfort, 7.22.1969. AAJ 1970, p. 172. 3. R. Gutierrez, 7.6.1970. AAJ 1971, p. 424. 752. unnamed (“Radioaficion”), 5580 m., 18,307 ft. 1. R. Cots, J. Frontera, 7.21.1969. AAJ 1970, p. 172. 753. Cutunticu II, 5550 m., 18,209 ft. 1. E. Hofmann, 0. Reus, 5.21. 1968. AAJ 1969, p. 443. 754. unnamed (“Ma.Alba”), 5525 m., 18,125 ft. 1. A. Bargay, J. Montfort, 8.16.1969. AA./ 1970, p. 172. 755. unnamed (“Montserrat Sur”), 5525 m., 18,125 ft. 1. A. Bahi, J. Frontera, 8.16.1969. AAJ 1970, p. 172. 756. Huurini, 5520 m., 18,111 ft. 1. K. Miyazaki, H. Ninomiya, 5.23. 1965. S 1967, pp. 14-18 and AAJ 1966, pp. 182-3. A SURVEY OF ANDEAN ASCENTS 75

757. unnamed, 5510 m., 18,078 ft. 1. K. Gross, H. Wolf, 6.10.1968. AAJ 1969, p. 172. 758. unnamed, 5500 m., 18,045 ft. 1. Same information as for 757. 759. unnamed (“Schwarze Wand”), 5500 m., 18,045 ft. 1. D. Hasse, W. Schiemann, 5.27.1969. AA/ 1970, p. 174. (Note: in source quoted, this peak is listed as 5450 m. high; in German sources has been listed as 5500 m). 760. unnamed (Cuchillo II, Asano), 5450 m., 17,881 ft. I. Same in- formation as for 756. 761. unnamed (BJE 4, “Firnberg”), 5450 m., 17,881 ft. 1. K. Dor- schel, G. Schiitte, 5.27.1969. AA.7 1970, p. 174. 762. unnamed (BJE 6, “Firnkuppe”), 5440 m., 17,848 ft. 1. K. Dor- schel, W. Helbig, W. Schiemann, G. Schiitte, 6.2.1969. AAJ 1970, p. 174. 763. unnamed (Nevado Piramide), 5405 m., 17,733 ft. 1. J. Frontera, J. Montfort, 7.26.1969. AAJ 1970, p. 172. (Note: there is no certainty if this is a name used locally). 764. unnamed (BJE 2), 5330 m., 17,487 ft. 1. D. Hasse, W. Schie- mat-m, G. Schiitte, 5.24.1969. AAJ 1970, p. 174. 765. Cutunticu Sur, 5310 m., 17,422 ft. 1. D. Hain, E. Hofmann, H. Wolf, 5.26.1968. AAJ 1969, p. 443. 766. unnamed (OAE l), 5300 m., 17,389 ft. 1. D. Hain, E. Hofmann, 0. Reus, 5.18.1968. AAJ 1969, p. 443. 767. unnamed (BJE I), 5300 m., 17,389 ft. 1. K. Dorschel, D. Hasse, W. Helbig, J. Gorter, J. Lindenburger, W. Schiemann, G. Schiitte, 5.24.1969. AAJ 1970, p. 174. 768. unnamed (BJE 3), 5300 m., 17,389 ft. 1. J. Gorter, 5.26.1969. AAJ 1970, p. 174. 769. Huunchochiri, ca. 5280 m., 17,323 ft. 1. J. Ricker, 1 1.28.1970. AAJ 1972, p. 176. (Note: in map of the Imperial College expedition, this peak is listed as 5400 m. high). 770. Huunucuni, ca. 5280 m., 17,323 ft. 1. J. Ricker, 9.29.1970. AAJ 1972, p. 176. 771. unnamed (“Penelope”), 5125 m., 16,813 ft. 1. A. Bargay, R. Cots, 7.26.1969. AAJ 1970, p. 172. 772. unnamed (Pica Riti Superior), 5041 m., 16,540 ft. 1. A. Bargay, J. Majo, 7.22.1969. AAJ 1970, p. 172. 773. unnamed (Pica Riti Inferior), 4960 m., 16,273 ft. 1. Same in- formation as for 772.

General note: several rock needles and lesser points also ascended by Spanish 1969 expedition; see map in AJ 1970, p. 22. Two ice domes, no height given, ascended by American-Bolivian party in June or July 1970; see AAJ 1971, p. 424. 76 THE AMERKAN ALPINE JOURNAL

Cordillera Real Whenever possible, all ascents are listed. However, in the case of several peaks which are ascended very often, listing has been kept to a reason- able minimum. 774. Nevudo Illimuni, 6462 m., 21,201 ft. 15. T. Kawaguchi, A. Martinez, I. Mizuguchi, P. Tichauer, 8.14.1963. AAJ 1964, p. 220. Various other ascents. 775. Nevudo Ancohumu, 6430 m., 21,095 ft. The following is a more complete list and should supersede the one included in AAJ 1962, p. 188: 1. R. Dienst, A. Schulze, 6.11.1919. Z 1927, pp. 91-105. 2. A Captain Flores, Bolivian Army, and A. Schulze, 1922 or 1923, Club Andino Boliviano, Bolerin de Ski y Andinismo 1 (1945), p. 11. 3. E. Hein, H. Weber, 1930. Mitteilungen des D. und O.A.V. 1931, nr. 5, p. 15. 4. H. Ertl, A. Hundhammer, 9.24.1950. MW 1953, pp. 159-61. 5. E. Cotter, H. Jacobs, D. MacKay, M. Nelson, 6.13.1964. Al 309, pp. 217-227 and AAJ 1965, p. 453. 6. T. Inagawa, I. Mukou, T. Takeshita, 7.25.1964. S 1966, pp. 5-7 and AAJ 1965, pp. 454-5. 7. D. Challis, W. Wagner, 6.26.1966. AJ 3 15, pp. 292-303 and AAJ 1965, p. 453. 8. H. Caha, W. Kabl, 7.18.1967. AAJ 1968, p. 206. 9. B. Hagen, D. Isles, G. Iturralde, E. and M. Kafer, 6.27.1968. AAJ 1969, pp. 278-80. 10. P. Doyle, R. GutiCrrez, J. Strum, 6.29.1968. AAJ 1969, pp. 278-80. 10. N. and S. Calegari, A. Farina, G. Ferrari, A. Sugliami, 8.6. 1969. Bonicelli, op. cir., pp. 17-18 and AAJ 1970, p, 173. 776. IIIumpu (Sorata), 6362 m., 20,873 ft. 3. L. Golob, T. Mihelir, 8.31.1964. PV 4 (1965), p. 186 and AAJ 1966, p. 182. 4. H. Caha, W. Kabl, 7.27.1967. AAJ 1968, p. 206. 5. K. Diirschel, D. Hasse, W. Schiemann, G. Schiitte, 6.24.1969. AAJ 1970, p. 174. 6. A. Harvard, J. Janney, T. Thompson. AAJ 1971, p. 424. 777. Huucuiiu, 6206 m., 20,360 ft. 2. Same information as for nr. 775, 5th ascent, but 6.14.1964. 3. Same information as for nr. 775, 8th ascent. 778. Chearuco, 6118 m., 20,072 ft. 2. J. Floodpage, R. Hunter, E. Quicke, 8.19.1962. AJ v. 68, p. 219 and AAJ 1963, pp. 510-13. 779. Huuyna Potosi (Cacca Aca), 6094 m., 19,996 ft. 8. A. Stobl, L. Storhas, 8. 1963. AAJ 1964, p. 220. Various other ascents. A SURVEY OF ANDEAN ASCENTS 77

780. Pica de1 Norte, 6085 m., 19,955 ft. 2. Members of Yugoslavian expedition, 9.2.1964. PV 4 (1965), p. 151 and AAJ 1966, p. 182. 3. K. Darschel, J. Gorter, 6.29.1969. AAJ 1970, p. 174. 781. Chuchucomuni, 6066 m., 19,902 ft. 2. M. Aoki, T. Suzuki, T. Takeshita, 6.22.1964. S 1966, pp. 5-7 and AAJ 1965, pp. 454-5. 782. Llocu de Ancohumu, 6057 m., 19,873 ft. 1. D. Challis, B. Hall, T. Smythe, 7.22.1966. Al 315, pp. 292-303 and AAJ 1967, pp. 397-9. 2. B. Hagen, E. Kafer, 6.24.1968. AAJ 1969, pp. 279-80. 783. Huuynu Zllampu, 6056 m., 19,864 ft. 1. N. Castillo, T. Inagawa, K. Suzuki, 7.16.1964. S 1966, pp. 5-7 and AAJ 1965, pp. 454-5. 784. Nevudo Yucumu, 6050 m., 19,849 ft. 1. N. and S. Calegari, A. Farina, G. Ferrari, 7.31.1969. Bonicelli, op. cit. pp. 13-17 and AAJ 1970, p. 173. 785. Chuchucomuni Sur, 6000 m (?), 19,685 ft. 1. M. Aoki, T. In- agawa, A. and I Mukou, T. Takeshita, 6.22.1964. S 1966, pp. 5-7 and AAJ 1965, pp. 454-5. 786. Cunotuhuu, 5981 m., 19,622 ft. 1. D. Challis, T. Smythe, 8.8. 1966. AJ 315, pp. 292-303 and AAJ 1967, pp. 397-9. 787. Cello Huichincu, 5970 m., 19,587 ft. 1. N. and S. Calegari, A. Farina, G. Ferrari, A. Sugliani, 7.29.1969. Bonicelli, op. cit., p. 62 and AAJ 1970, p. 173. 788. Llihirini, 5970 m., 19,587 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 787, but 7.27.1969. 789. Mumuniri, 5970 m., 19,587 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 787, but 7.28.1969. 790. Casiri Este, 5946 m., 19,510 ft. 1. M. Birchall, B. Hall, B. Win- field, 6.26.1966. AJ 315, pp. 292-303 and AAJ 1967, pp. 397-9. 791. Huilliguuyu 1 (Huallaya Laurani l), 5940 m., 19,488 ft. 1. T. Inagawa, I. Mukou, V. Pachahuay, 6.24.1964. S 1966, pp. 5-7 and AAJ 1965, pp. 454-5. 792. Nevudo de Cotark, 5933 m., 19,468 ft. 1 (?) Members of Yugo- slavian expedition, 9.1.1964. PV 4 (1965), p. 151 and AAJ 1966, p. 182. (Note.- in source quoted, this ascent was not claimed as a first, but this author has been unable to locate information about a previous ascent. Perhaps Bolivian climbers may have visited the peak in the later 1950’s or early 1960’s. The peak has been known for years as Pica Schulze; the above name was ascertained by this writer in 1953). 793. Quelluuni, 5928 m., 19,451 ft. 1. P. Lauryssen, N. Nazar, M. Quiroga, U. Silva, 7.23.1964. AAJ 1965, p. 452. 794. unnamed, 5900 m., 19,357 ft. 1. H. Caha, W. Kabl, 7.17.1967. AAJ 1968, p. 206. 78 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL

795. Quimsacollo, 5893 m., 19,332 ft. 1. D. Challis, B. Hall, T. Smythe, 7.22.1966. AJ 315, pp. 292-303 and AAJ 1967, pp. 397-9. 2. B. Hagen, E. Kafer, 6.24.1968. AAJ 1969, p. 279. 796. Arichiri, ca. 19,300 ft. 1. E. Cotter, H. Jacobs, D. MacKay, 6.3. 1964. AJ 309, pp. 217-227 and AAJ 1965, p. 453. 2. J. and M. Nelson, 6.17.1964. AJ 309, pp. 217-227 and AAJ 1965, p. 453. (Note: peak was described as “the first major peak in the range south of Ancohuma”. However, on expedition sketch maps, it appears to be rather almost due east of the latter mountain. In the work Cordillera Real, by the Berliner JubilGimexpedition 1966, p, 56, Arichiri is mentioned as Nevado Pirimide, 5906 m., which corresponds to a mountain south of Ancohuma). 797. Nevado Calzada, 5874 m., 19,270 ft. 1. R. Bradford, J. Flood- page, R. Hunter, A. Martinez, P. Tichauer, 7.27.1962. AJ v. 68, p. 219 and AAJ 1963, pp. 510-3. 798. Ancopiti 1, 5867 m., 19,249 ft. 1. A. and I. Mukou, 7.24.1964. S 1966, pp. 5-7 and AAJ 1965, pp. 454-5. 2. D. Challis, B. Hall, T. Smythe, 7.21.1966. AJ 315, p. 299 and AAJ 1967, pp. 397-9. 799. Ancopiti 7, 5850 m., 19,193 ft. 1 M. Aoki, K. Ohta, K. Suzuki, 7.23.1964. S 1966, pp. 5-7 and AAJ 1965, pp. 454-5. 800. Asjaraiia (Ancopiti 5), 5839 m., 19,157 ft. 1. N. and S. Calegari, 8.11.1969. Bonicelli, op. cit., pp. 18 and 67 and AAJ 1970, p. 173. 801. Hailliguaya 3 (Halluaya III), 5837 m., 19,151 ft. 1. M. Aoki, T. Inagawa, T. Takeshita, 6.17.1964. S 1966, pp. 5-7 and AAJ 1965, pp. 454-5. 802. unnamed, 5830 m., 19,128 ft. 1. Members of Yugoslavian ex- pedition, Sept. 1964. PI/ 4 (1965), p. 186 and AAJ 1966, p. 182. 803. Nevado Casiri, 5828 m., 19,122 ft. 2. H. Jacobs, D. MacKay, 6.5. 1964. Al 309, pp. 217-227 and AAJ 1965, p. 453. 804. Hailliguaya 2 (Halluaya II), 5828 m., 19,122 ft. 1. M. Aoki, T. Inagawa, T. Takeshita, 6.17.1964. S 1966, pp. 5-7 and AAJ 1965, pp. 454-5. 805. Ancopiti 4, 5818 m., 19,090 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 799, but 7.26.1964. 806. unnamed, 5812 m., 19, 068 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 801, but 6.15.1964. 807. unnamed (Nevado “Yaritagate”), ca. 5800 m., 19,029 ft. 1. M. Aoki, T. Inagawa, 6.20.1964. S 1966, pp. 5-7 and AAJ 1965, pp. 454-5. 808. unnamed (Pica “DYM”), ca. 19,000 ft. 1. F. Aliaga, B. Hagen, J. Villarreal, 6.28.1968. AAJ 1969, p. 280. A SURVEY OF ANDEAN ASCENTS 79

809. unnamed (Casiri Norte), ca. 19,000 ft. 1. E. Cotter, H. Jacobs, D. MacKay, 6.2.1964. A/ 309, p. 218 and AAJ 1965, p. 453. (Note: this peak appears to be only a summit of Casiri’s ridge, not actually a mountain; see source quoted, same page). 810. unnamed (Casiri Aguja), ca. 19,000 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 809. 2. M. Nelson, 6.1964. A3 309, p. 227 and AAJ 1965, p. 453. (Note: same footnote as for nr. 809). 811. unnamed, 5791 m., 18,999 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 806. 812. Mururata, 5775 m., 18,947 ft. 4. E. Hofmann, 7.1.1968. AAJ 1969, p. 444. 5. J. Hudson, R. Laba, K. Miller, E. and R. Whewell, late June 1969. AAJ 1970, pp. 171-2. 813. Taparacu, 5751 m., 18,865 ft. 1. H. Jacobs, D. MacKay, M. Nelson, 6.7.1964. AJ 309, pp. 217-227 and AA/ 1965, p. 453. 2. D. Challis, T. Smythe, 7.29.1966. AJ 315, pp. 292-303 and AAJ 1967, pp. 397-9. 814. Chamacahua, 5727 m., M. Birchall, B. Hall, B. Winfield, 6.20. 1966. AJ 315, pp. 292-303 and AAJ 1967, pp. 397-9. 815. unnamed (Calzada 2), 5727 m., 18,790 ft. 1. R. Bradford, R. Fearon, J. Floodpage, R. Hunter, E. Quicke, M. Smith, 7.23. 1962, Al v. 68, p. 219 and AAJ 1963, pp. 510-3. 816. unnumed (Calzada 3)) 5724 m., 18,781 ft. 1. R. Bradford, J. Floodpage, R. Hunter, E. Quicke, M. Smith, 7.25.1962. AJ v. 68, p. 219 and AAJ 1963, pp. 510-3. 817. unnamed (“Dome” 2)) 5706 m., 18,721 ft. 1. R. Fearon, J. Floodpage, E. Quicke, 8.5.1962. AJ v. 68, p. 219 and AAJ 1963, pp. 510-3. 818. unnamed, 5700 m., 18,700 ft. 1. R. Bradford, J. Floodpage, M. Smith, no date (probably Aug. 1962). Al v. 68, p. 219 and AAJ 1963, pp. 510-3. 819. unnamed (“Gorra de Hielo”), 5700 m., 18,700 ft. 1. W. Fiala, D. Hasse, W. Helbig, 6.29.1969. AAJ 1970, p. 174. 820. San PabZo, 5677 m., 18,634 ft. 1. B. Hall, B. Winfield, 7.28.1966. AJ 315, pp. 292-303 and AAJ 1967, pp. 397-9. 821. Trihgulo, 5671 m., 18,609 ft. 1. D. Challis, T. Smythe, 7.30. 1966. AJ 315, pp. 292-3030 and AAJ 1967, pp. 397-9. 822. Nevado Condoriri, 5648 m., 18,531 ft. 4 A. A. Gonzalez, A. Martinez, K. Whitelock, 9.8.1962. AF 1963-67, pp. 126-130 and AAJ 1963, pp. 510-3. 5. Members of Yugoslavian expedition, 8.1964. PV 4 (1965) pp. 159-162 and AAJ 1966, p. 182. 6. G. Agnolotti, E. Ferrero, R. Ibatta, V. Lazzarino, 7.25.1967. RM 1967, pp. 419-427 and AAJ 1968, pp. 204-5. 80 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL

7. H. Bichlmeier, J. Knott, P. Schleyer, H. Ziegenhardt, 6.1.1969. AAJ 1970, p. 168. 8. E. Otto, M. Zimmer, 6.10.1969. AAJ 1970, p. 168. 9. J. Hudson, R. Laba, E. and R. Whewell, 6.14.1969. AAJ 1970, p. 170. 823. unnamed (“Dome” 1 ), 5643 m., 18,514 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 817. 824. Viluyo 1 (Viluyo Jancouma), 5638 m., 18,500 ft. 2. T. Inagawa, T. Takeshita, 7.27.19&l. S 1966, pp. 6-7 and AAJ 1965, pp. 454-5. (Note: in source quoted, this ascent was claimed as a first, but E. Hein had ascended this peak in 1928; see AAJ 1962, p. 189, nr. 396). 3. D. Challis, W. Wagner, 6.10.1966. AJ 315, pp. 292-303 and AAJ 1967, pp. 397-9. 825. Vinohuara 2, 5638 m., 18,500 ft. 2. M. Aoki, T. Inagawa, T. Takeshita, 6.15.1964. S. 1966, pp. 5-7 and AAJ 1965, pp. 454-5. (Note: this, the highest peak of the Vinohuara group, had been ascended in 1928 by F. Ahlfeld and E. Hein; see AAJ 1962, p. 189, nr. 393). 826. Mesquetanfa, 5627 m., 18,463 ft. 1. M. Birchall, B. Hall, B. Winfield, 6.20.1966. AJ 315, pp. 292-303 and AAJ 1967, pp. 397-9. 827. unnamed, 5626 m., 18,460 ft. 1. J. Floodpage, R. Hunter, 7.29. 1962. AJ v. 68, p. 219 and AAJ 1963, pp. 510-3. 828. unnamed, 5621 m., 18,441 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 827. 829. Macataifia, 5618 m., 18,433 ft. 1. M. Birchall, D. Challis, B. Hall, B. Winfield, 6.1.1966. AJ 315, pp. 292-303 and AAJ 1967, pp. 397-9. 830. Ancoma de Couco, 5612 m., 18,412 ft. 1. P. Castillo, M. Nat- suhara, A. Yamanouchi, 7.29.1963. S. 1965, pp. 18-19 and AAJ 1964, p. 220. 831. Pica de la Linea, 5608 m., 18,400 ft. 1. D. Challis, T. Smythe, 7.31.1966. Al 315, pp. 292-303 and AAJ 1967, pp. 397-9. 832. Viluyo 2, 5608 m., 18,390 ft. 1. A. and I. Mukou, 7.27.1964. S 1966, pp. 5-7 and AA/ 1965, pp. 454-5. 2. D. Challis, B. Hall, T. Smythe, 6.13.1966. AJ 315, p. 302 and AAJ 1967, pp. 397-9. (Note: this second ascent was claimed as a third in the expedi- tion report, but in correspondence maintained between Erwin Hein and this writer, the former stated that he had ascended only the main peak of the group, Viluyo 1). 833. unnamed, 5605 m., 18,389 ft. 1. R. Fearon, J. Floodpage, E. Quicke, 8.5.1962. AJ v. 68, p. 219 and AAJ 1963, pp. 510-3. 834. Vinohuara I, 5600 m., 18,375 ft. 1. R. Gutierrez, A. and I. A SURVEY OF ANDEAN ASCENTS 81

Mukou, K. Suzuki, 6.16.1964. S. 1966, pp. 5-7 and AAJ 1965, pp. 454-5. (Note: peak has also been listed in expedition reports as 5608 m., or 18,400 ft) . 835. Haltatahua, 5599 m., 18,370 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 821, but 7.29.1966. 836. Viluyo 3, 5593 m., 18,350 ft. 1. Same information, and same footnote, as for nr. 832, first ascent. 2. D. Challis, W. Wagner, 6.13.1966. AJ 315, p. 302 and AAJ 1967, pp. 397-9. 3. A. Bonicelli, 8.5.1969. Bonicelli, op. cit., p. 68 and AAJ 1970, p. 173. 837. Sihuaillusa, 5591 m., 18,343 ft. 1. R. Fearon, J. Floodpage, 8.7. 1962. AJ v. 68, p. 219 and AAJ 1963, pp. 510-3. 838. unnamed, 5582 m., 18,3 13 ft. 1. A Martinez, I. Mizuguchi, A. Natsuhara, 7.22.1963. S 1965, pp. 18-19 and AAJ 1964, p. 220. 839. unnamed (Chuyma Chiara), ca. 18,300 ft. 1. F. Aliaga, P. Doyle, J. Strum, J. Villarreal, 6.27.1968. AAJ 1969, p. 280. (Note: “. . this peak lies a mile east of “Pica DYM [nr. 8081” which in turn “lies on the ridge southeast of Quimsacollo”). 840. Hailliguaya 4 (Halluaya IV), 5578 m., 18,300 ft. 1. Same in- formation as for nr. 804. 841. Tiquimani, 5.550 m., 18,209 ft. 1 (?) Major Azero and Bolivian climbers, late April, 1963. AAJ 1964, p. 219. (Note: the South African party that ascended this peak one month later doubted the Bolivian claim, “. . . feeling that the route which they described is impracticable; they found no ev- idence of a previous ascent on top”; source quoted, p. 219). 2. H. Hill, G. Mills, 8.7.1963. AAJ 1964, pp. 219-220. 3. S. Shepard, 7.1967. AAJ 1970, pp. 48-50. 842. unnamed (Huallomen, Ala Norte, Condoriri West Peak), 5532 m., 18,150 ft. 1. N. Coetzee, M. Griffin, 6.1963. AAJ 1964, pp. 2 19-220. 2. Members of Yugoslavian expedition, 8.1964. PV 4 (1965), p. 149 and AAJ 1966, p. 182. 3. J. Hudson, 6.14.1969. AAJ 1970, p. 170. (Note: Huallomen is the name this author heard applied to this peak by locals north of La Paz; however, Huallomen is also used, apparently, for another peak east of Condoriri; see nr. 852, be- low. Ala Norte appears in the Yugoslavian report. Condoriri West Peak is the name used by both South Africans and Hudson. In the book by M. Griffin, Tiquimani [Stellenbosch, South Africa, 1965, p. 521, the Club Andino Boliviano is mentioned as having reserved for itself the right to accept or reject any name for this peak). 82 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL

843. Co110 de Linqui, 5525 m., 18,129 ft. 1. Same as nr. 826, 6.19. 1966. 844. Yapuchanani, 5521 m., 18,114 ft. 1. Same as for nr. 829, hut 5.31.1966. 845. unnamed (“Pica Yugoeslavia”), 5505 m., 18,060 ft. 1. Mem- bers of Yugoslavian expedition, mid-August 1964. PV 4 ( 1965)) pp. 155-6 and AAJ 1966, p. 182. 846. Cunatincuta, ca. 5500 m., 18,045 ft. 3. Members of Yugo- slavian expedition, late July or early August, 1964. PV 4 ( 1965)) pp. 172-3 and AAJ 1966, p. 182. 4. G. Ferrari, J. Urioste, 9.12.1967. AAJ 1968, p. 205. 847. unnamed (“Pica Reya”), 5495 m., 18,027 ft. 1. Members of Yugoslavian expedition, mid-August 1964. PV 4 (1965), p. 156 and AAJ 1966, p. 182. 848. Rumca 5, 5491 m., 18,015 ft. 1. R. Bradford, R. Hunter, V. Pachahuay, 8.5.1962. AJ v. 68, p. 219 and AAJ 1963, pp. 510-3. 849. unnamed (Ala Sur), 5482 m., 17,985 ft. 1. Members of Yugo- slavian expedition, August 1964, PV 4 (1965), pp. 162-3 and AAJ 1966, p. 182. 850. Cerro Catunani, (BAE 13 ), 5468 m., 17,940 ft. 1. E. Otto, M. Zimmer, 6.3.1969. AA/ 1970, pp. 167-70. 851. unnamed (BAE 22), 5468 m., 17,940 ft. 1. R. Knott, E. Otto, 6.8.1969. AAJ 1970, pp. 167-70. 852. unnamed (Wyoming, Huallomen), 5463 m., 17,920 ft. 1. Mem- bers of Yugoslavian expedition, 8.1964. AAJ 1966, p. 182. (Note: apparently the name HuallomCn, that belongs to the N.W. peak of Condoriri [see nr. 842, above] was also given to this peak and reproduced imitating a well-known American name). 853. unnamed (BAE 21), 5465 m., 17,930 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 851. 854. Corona Ocaja, 5451 m., 17,884 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 843. 855. unnamed (BAE l), 5450 m., 17,881 ft. 1. H. Bichlmeier, P. Schleyer, 5.25.1969. AAJ 1970, pp. 167-70. 856. unnamed (BAE 5), 5450 m., 17,881 ft. 1’. E. Otto, M. Zimmer, 5.27.1969. AAJ 1970, pp. 167-70. 857. unnamed (BAE 14), 5450 m., 17,881 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 850. 858. Rumca 1, 5449 m., 17,878 ft. 1. R. Bradford, R. Hunter, 8.6. 1962. AJ v. 68, p. 219 and AAJ 1963, pp. 510-3. 859. Chicani, 5435 m. , 17,830 ft. 2. G. Agnolotti, J. Bustillos, G. Castelli, G. Ferrari, E. Ferrero, V. Lazarino, J. Urioste, 7.2.1967. RM 1967, pp. 419-27 and AAJ 1968, pp. 204-5. A SURVEY OF ANDEAN ASCENTS 83

860. unnamed (BAE 23), 5426 m., 17,803 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 851. 861. Jachapata, 5424 m., 17,795 ft. 1. I. Mukou, R. Kanai, 9.18. 1970. (p.c.) 862. unnamed, 5420 m., 17,782 ft. 1. M. Abe, M. Sekita, F. Shimizu, 6.22.1967. AAJ 1968, p. 206. (Note: there is a possibility that numbers 861 and 862 are the same peak). 863. unnamed (BAE 16), 5410 m., 17,750 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 850, but 6.4.1969. 864. Rumca 2, 5410 m., 17,750 ft. 1. R. Bradford, R. Hunter, V. Pachahuay, 8.5.1962. AJ v. 68, p. 219 and AAJ 1963, pp. 510-3. 865. Rumca 3, 5410 m., 17,750 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 864. 866. Rumca 4, 5410 m., 17,750 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 864. 867. Negruni I A, 5406 m., 17,736 ft. 1. R. Bradford, R. Hunter, 8.7.1962. AJ v. 68, p. 219 and AA/ 1963, pp. 510-3. 868. unnamed, 5400 m., 17,717 ft. 1. Members of Yugoslavian ex- pedition, August 1964. PV 4 ( 1965)) p. 156, map; and AAJ 1966, p. 182. (Note: in second source quoted, this ascent does not appear listed as a first). 869. unnamed, 5400 m., 17,717 ft. 1. K. Takeshita, N. Yamamoto, 9.18.1970. (p.c). 870. Cunatincuta Chico, ca. 5400 m., 17,717 ft. 2. Members of Yugoslavian expedition, end of July, 1964. PV 4 (1965), pp. 148-9. (Note: in source quoted, this peak is listed as Mamancota, but this name corresponds to a rock peak located between Ayllaico and Cuticucho, to the southwest). 871. unnamed (BAE 15), 5398 m., 17,711 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 863. 2. H. Ziegenhardt, 6.6.1969. (p.c.) 872. unnamed (BAE 3), 5396 m., 17,708 ft. 1. J. Knott, H. Ziegen- hardt, 5.25.1969. AAJ 1970, pp. 167-70. 873. unnumpd, 5395 m., 17,702 ft. 1. Members of Yugoslavian ex- pedition, July 1964. AAJ 1966, p. 182. (Note: in source quoted, this ascent is not claimed as a first). 874. Negruni I B, 5393 m., 17,696 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 867. 875. unnamed (Pica Eslovenia), 5381 m., 17,654 ft. 1. Members of Yugoslavian expedition, July 1964. AAJ 1966, p. 182. 876. unnamed, 5380 m., 17,651 ft. 1. Members of Yugoslavian ex- pedition, July 1964. PV 4 (1965), p. 149 and AAJ 1966, p. 182. 84 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL

877. unnamed (Fabulosa, Pequefio Alpamayo), 5370 m., 17,618 ft. 1. K. and I. Whitelock, 8.24.1962. AF 1963-1967, pp. 126-30 and AA/ 1963, pp. 513-4. 2. D. Good, M. Griffin, 7.1963. Margaret Griffin, Tiquimani (Stellenbosch, South Africa, 1965), pp. 126-8 and AAJ 1964, p. 220. 3. Members of Yugoslavian expedition, July or August 1964. PV 4 (1965), p. 149 and AAJ 1966, p. 182. 878. Culin Tojo, 5368 m., 17,612 ft. 1. R. Kanai, I. Mukou, 9.23. 1970. (p.c). 879. Negruni 2, 5365 m., 17,602 ft. 1. R. Bradford, J. Floodpage, 8.9.1962. AJ v. 68, p. 219 and AAJ 1963, pp. 510-3. 880. Negruni 3, 5362 m., 17,593 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 879. 881. Huaruscuta, 5360 m., 17,586 ft. 1. R. Fearon, R. Hunter, 8.10. 1962. AJv. 68, p. 219 and AAJ 1963, pp. 510-3. 882. unnamed (BAE 6), 5360 m., 17,586 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 850, but 5.28.1969. 883. unnamed (BAE 2)) 5360 m., 17,586 ft. 1. P. Borutzki, R. Knott, 5.25.1969. AAJ 1970, pp. 167-70. 884. unnamed (BAE 17), 5360 m., 17,586 ft. 1. J. Knott, P. Schleyer, 6.7.1969. AAJ 1970, pp. 167-70. 885. unnamed (Pica Medio or Cerro Medio), 5355 m., 17,568 ft. 1. Members of Yugoslavian expedition, July or August 1964. PV 4 (1965), p. 149 and AA/ 1966, p. 182. 886. unnamed (BAE 7)) 5350 m., 17,553 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 850, but 5.28.1969, plus J. Knott, P. Schleyer. 887. unnamed (BAE 12)) 5340 m., 17,520 ft. 1. P. Borutzki, P. Schleyer, 6.3.1969. AAJ 1970, p. 167. 888. unnamed (Ilusibn), 5330 m., 17,487 ft. 1. A. Gonzalez, A. Martinez, K. Whitelock, I. Whitelock, 9.4.1962. AF 1963-1967, pp. 126-30 and AAJ 1963, pp. 513-4. 2. Members of Yugoslavian expedition, Aug. 1964. PV 4 ( 1965), p. 149 and AAJ 1966, p. 182. 889. unnamed, 5320 m., 17,454 ft. 1. Members of Yugoslavian ex- pedition, Aug. 1964. AAJ 1966, p. 182. (Note: in source quoted, peak is referred to as “Innominado”). 890. unnamed, (BAE 20), 5320 m., 17,454 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 851. 891. unnamed, ca. 17,400 ft. 1. M. Abe, M. Sekita, F. Shimizu, 6.18.1967. AAJ 1968, p. 206. 892. unnamed (BAE) 19), 5310 m., 17,422 ft. 1. J. Knott, P. Schleyer, 6.8.1969. AAJ 1970, p. 167. 893. Coronado, 5305 m., 17,404 ft. 2. J. Bustillos, G. Ferrari, 6.30. 1967. AAJ 1968, p. 204. A SURVEY OF ANDEAN ASCENTS 85

894. unnamed, 5300 m., 17,389 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 889; listed in map, PV 4 (1965), p. 156. 895. unnamed, 5300 m., 17,389 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 894. 896. unnamed (BAE 8), 5300 m., 17,389 ft. 1. P. Borutzki, H. Ziegenhardt, 5.29.1969. AAJ 1970, pp. 167-70. 897. C’alahuyo, over 5300 m., 17,389 ft. 1 (?) G. Cochran, R. Ibata, I. Marr, 1964. AAJ 1965, p. 454. 2 (?) ...... 3. A. English, before 1969 (p.c). (Note: there is no certainty if the ascents listed here took place in the order mentioned above. The peak may have been as- cended several times before and after the dates shown). 898. San Calixto, over 5300 m., 17,389 ft. l...... ? 2 ...... ? 3 ...... ? 4 ...... ? 5. G. Agnolotti, J. Bustillos, G. Ferrari, E. Ferrero, V. Laz- zarino, J. Urioste, 7.1.1967. AAJ 1968, p. 204. (Note: J. Urioste, who climbed this peak, states in the source mentioned, “. . . I last climbed this peak in 1964. . . . Ours [1967] was the fifth ascent”; the author has found no other in- formation). 899. Ayllaco, ca. 5300 m., 17,389 ft. 5 (7) Members of Yugoslavian expedition, July, 1964. PV 4 (1965), p. 181 and AAJ 1966, p. 182. Various other ascents. 900. A&a Negra, 5290 m., 17,356 ft. The following is the complete and corrected list of ascents: 1. A. English, D. Moore, H. Olayarrieta, 7.25.1960. AAJ 1961, pp. 403-4. 2. A. Gonzilez, A. Martinez, I. and K. Whitelock, 9.3.1962. AF 1963-1967, pp. 126-130 and AAI 1963, pp. 513-4. 3. Same information as for nr. 885. (Note: in source quoted for second ascent, height of this peak is stated to be only 5240 m.). 901. unnamed (BAE lo), 5290 m., 17,356 ft., 1. Same information as for nr. 850, but 5.30.1969. 902. unnamed, 5280 m., 17,323 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 885. 903. unnamed (BAE 25), 5280 m., 17,323 ft. 1. Same informa- tion as for nr. 884, but 6.9.1969. 904. unnamed (BAE 11)) 5270 m., 17,290 ft. 1. J. and R. Knott, 6.3.1969. AAI 1970, p. 167. 905. unnamed (“Aniversario”), ca. 17,250 ft. 1. D. Hartshorne, C. Saville, T. Tucker, 4.4.1969. AAJ 1970, p. 171. 906. unnamed (Cash-i Chico), 5255 m., 17,240 ft. 1. J. Floodpage, P.Tichauer, 7.31.1962. AAJ 1963, p. 511. 86 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL

(Note: Casiri Chico is the name given by these climbers to this peak; however, in the 1935 Hein-Troll map of the northern part of the Cordillera Real there appears another Casiri Chico, also located in the same area where these climbers were, but listed as 5545 m. high).

unnumed (BAE 4)) 5250 m., 17,225 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 856. 908. unnamed, 5250 m., 17,225 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 802. 909. unnamed, 5250 m., 17,225 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 885. 910. Huilallojeta (Wila Lloieta), 5244 m., 17,205 ft. 1. I. Mukou, N. Yamamoto, 9.20.1970. (p-c). 911. unnamed (BAE 18), 5240 m., 17,192 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 884, but 6.8.1969. 912. unnamed (BAE 24)) 5240 m., 17,192 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 884, but 6.9.1969. 913. Pircimide Blunca, 5230 m., 17,159 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 885. 914. unnamed, 5225 m., 17,144 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 885. 915. unnamed (“Verity”, “Verity Rock”), 5215 m., 17,108 ft. 1. J. Fearon, E. Quicke, M. Smith, 7.29.1962. AAJ 1963, p. 511. 916. Potrelcuchu, 5200 m., 17,061 ft. 1. R. Kanai, I. Mukou, 9.30. 1970. (p.c). 917. Diente, 5200 m., 17,061 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 885. 918. unnamed (“Dolgi Hrbet”), 5175 m., 16,977 ft. 1. Same infor- mation as for nr. 885. 919. unnamed (Ilusioncita), 5150 m., 16,897 ft. 1. A. Gonzalez, A. Martinez, K. Whitelock, 9.1.1962. AF 1963-l 967, p. 127 and AA/ 1963, pp. 513-4. 920. Cuticucho (Hichuloma), ca. 5100 m., 16,733 ft. 3. Same in- formation as for nr. 885, but July 1964. 921. Tar&, 5060 m., 16,600 ft. Complete list of ascents: 1. A. Martinez, D. Moore, 1959. AAJ 1963, p. 513. 2. I. and K. Whitelock, 8.24.1962. AAJ 1963, p. 513. 3. D. Good, M. Griffin, 7.1963. Caption of picture facing p. 148, M. Griffin, Tiquimani (Stellenbosch, S. Africa). 4. Members of Yugoslavian expedition, Aug. 1964. PV 4 ( 1965)) p. 156 (route showing on map). 922. unnamed (Fraternidad), 5050 m., 16,568 ft. 1. Same informa- tion as for nr. 885, but July 1964. 923. unnamed (Titicaca), ca. 16,300 ft. 1. D. Good, R. Sandell, 7.1963. AAJ 1964, p. 220. A SURVEY OF ANDEAN ASCENTS

924. unnamed (Condoriri Chico), ca. 16,000 ft. 1. H. Hill, B. Reinecke, 7.1963. AAJ 1964, p. 220. 925. unrwmed (“Chico Adios”), ca. 16,000 ft. 1. Same informa- tion as for nr. 924. 926. unnamed (Teta), ca. 16,000 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 924. 927. unnamed (Campanilla), ca. 16,000 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 924. 928. unnamed (La Ola), ca. 16,000 ft. 1. Same information as for nr. 924. General note: a peak mentioned as Arichiri Este, no height given, was also ascended by E. Cotter, H. Jacobs, D. MacKay, 6.1964; see AJ 309, p. 227. The Mexican Puebla expedition also ascended five peaks in the Calzada region. Heights of these peaks were given as two of 5600 m., one of 5900 m., and two of 6200 m. Since the main peak of the Calzada group is only 5871 m., these heights are greatly exaggerated. But these peaks have not been located on maps and they could well correspond to those already ascended by the British 1962 expedition. See AAJ 1965, p. 456, for de- tails of the Puebla expedition.

Cordillera Quimsa Crua A complete survey of ascents in this range appeared in AAJ 1970, pp. 55-57. Mr. Olaf Hartman (Giittingen) has kindly sent the following additions and corrections; numbers refer to the list published on that occasion and do not belong to the present survey. 20. unnamed: actual name is Agujdn. 22. unnamed, 5280 m., 17,323 ft. (Note : this peak belongs to the “Piedra de 10s Incas”). 23. unnamed, 5250 m., 17,225 ft. (Note:. this peak seems to correspond to BAE 30). 25. unnamed, 5240 m., 17,192 ft. (Note: this peak seems to correspond to BAE 29).

Cordillera de Cocapata No new ascents have come to the attention of the author. Peaks in this range seem to be nowadays repeatedly ascended by residents of the town of Cochabamba, according to personal communications received by the author.

Cordillera Occidental Peaks located on the international border with Chile are listed in the Chilean chapter, since they are ascended mostly from the Chilean side. 88 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL

929. , 6520 m., 21,424 ft. 6. T. Inagawa, K. Suzuki, 8.17.1964. S 1966, pp. 5-7 and AAJ 1965, p. 455. Various other ascents.

CHILE Northern Andes or Puna It is now a proven fact that very high peaks in this region were ascended by subjects of the Incan empire, in pre-Columbian times. Besides, more ascents may have been made in the 18th and 19th centuries by local miners and hillmen. Therefore, most claims for a first ascent should be regarded as only provisional. Peaks on the Bolivian and Argentinian borders have been included in this chapter. 930. Nevado Oios de1 Salado, 6885 m., 22,590 ft. 9. R. Kanai, S. Kunstmann, P. Rosende, T. Takeshita, 12.19.1970. AAJ 1972, p. 178. 931. , 6723 m., 22,058 ft. 5. N. Diaz, M. Rebitsch, L. Vigl, February or March 1961. AAJ 1962, pp. 267-8. 6. N. Diaz, M. Rebitsch, 4.1961. Universidad National de Cuyo, Anales de Arqueologia y Etnologia, vol. XXI (1966)) p. 70. 7. Same information as for 6th ascent. 8. L. Allende, M. G6mez, H. Miranda, 12.13.1962. RA 86, p. 10. 932. Cerro de1 Toro, 6386 m., 20,950 ft. 1. Subjects of Incan em- pire, around 1500. A mummy found on a slightly lower top during second ascent (or first modern ascent), in 1964, to this lower summit. 2. A. Beorchia, S. Fernandez, J. Varas, 2.26.1964. ACAM 1, pp. IO-11 and AAJ 1965, p. 461. 933. Nevado (Payachata Sur, Muru Payachata), 6330 m., 20,768 ft. 3. C. Lucero, B. GonzPlez, 0. Gonzalez, 10.11.1964. RA 87, pp. 17-23 and AAJ 1965, pp. 461-2. 4. S. Kunstmann, P. Rosende, 10.9.1965. RA 89, p. 21. 934. Cerro de las Tdrtolas, 6323 m., 20,745 ft. 12. C. Guerrero, D. and L. Romito, J. Varas, 1966. ACAM 2, pp. 65-70. (Note: after the 5th ascent to this mountain, listed in AAJ 1963, p. 427, it should be added five other ascents by members of the same party that accomplished this fifth ascent. The 1 Ith ascent was made by party listed in same source as 7th ascent. After the 12th ascent, this mountain has been visited several times). 935. Nevado Pomarata (Payachata Norte, Huarmi Payachata), 6240 m., 20,473 ft. 2 (?). S. Kunstmann, C. Maier, 10.11.1964. RA 87, pp. 17-23 and AAJ 1965, pp. 461-2. (Note: as stated in AAJ 1963, p. 428, claims for the first ascent are generally disbelieved. Therefore, the ascent listed here has also been claimed as a first). 936. Cerro EZ Ermitafio, 6187 m., 20,300 ft. 1. H. Koch, S. Kunst-