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A Survey of Andean Ascents: 19614970

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A Survey of Andean Ascents: 19614970 A Survey of Andean Ascents: 19614970 Part II. Bolivia, Chile, Argentina. EVELIO ECHEVARR~A NCLUDED in this second part are the Andean areas where the oldest mountain ascents in history were made, dating back at least to the 15th century, when highlanders of the Inca empire climbed peaks over 22,000 feet above the high plateaus of South America. Besides, modern mountaineering was being practiced here, par- ticularly in Chile and Argentina, almost at the beginning of the present century. Therefore, with such intense activity, only first ascents have been listed in some areas, but for those which are visited only by sporadic expeditions, complete lists of ascents have been supplied. Once again I extend my grateful appreciation to the Editor of this journal, H. Adams Carter, not only for having directed this work, but also for his invaluable contribution to mountaineering by securing and pub- lishing in the American Alpine Journal, year after year, expedition ac- counts the world over. It is safe to assume that if this were not done, a good many expeditions would remain unrecorded. I am also grateful to mountaineers who over the years have maintained with me a constant cor- respondence: Messrs. D. F. 0. Dangar and R. N. Gallop (Great Britain), Olaf Hartmann (Germany), M. Fantin and A. Bonicelli (Italy), I. Yoshizawa and T. Kawakami (Japan) and A. Brignone, editor of La Montana (Argentina). A number of Chilean mountaineers have con- tributed valuable information and I express my recognition to Sefiores Humberto Barrera (editor of Revista Andina), Gaston San Roman (ed- itor of Anuario de MontaSa) and the mountain writer Maximino Fer- nandez. Mention should also be made of Jose Ambrus, from whose effi- cient yearly lists of Chilean ascents I have borrowed heavily, and of B. Gonzalez, R. Martinez, M. Bazan, L. Allende, H. Vasquez and E. von Borries. This survey was compiled mostly from mountaineering and scientific literature, as well as from correspondence with mountaineers. The ab- breviations used to represent sources of information are as follows: AAJ-American Alpine Journal, New York. 71 72 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL ACAE-Club Andino Bariloche, Argentina, Anuario. ACAM-Club Andino Mercedario, Argentina, Amrario (also Rev&a, as the Anuario was named in its first numbers). AF-Federation de Andinismo de Chile, Anuario de Montuiia. AJ-Alphe Journal, London. And.-Deutscher Andenverein, Santiago, Chile, Andina. LM-Federation Argentina de Montaiiismo y Afines, La Montatia. MW-Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, Mountain World. PV-Planinske zveze Slovenija, Yugoslavia, Planinski Vestnik. RA-Club Andino de Chile, Revista Andina. RM-Club Alpino Italiano, Rivista Mensile. S-Japanese Alpine Club, Snngaku. Bonicelli, op. cit., Annibale Bonicelli, La spedizione de1 CA1 di Bergamo alla Cordillera Real nelle Ande Boliviane (Bergamo, Italy, 1969). p.c.. personal communication. Names of peaks preceded by the word unnamed are unofficial ones. Heights in meters have been transposed into feet with the aid of the con- version table of the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research. Month, day and year, in that order, are given whenever possible. In a few cases, omissions have been corrected by the insertion of an item with a letter attached to the number of the entry, such as 1127a: the letter bears no connection between the mountains both using the same number. After the name of each peak and its height, each ascent is listed following an ordinal number. If a peak is listed here with an ascent other than the first, it means that previous climbs have already been listed in “A Survey of Andean Ascents,” AAJ 1963 (pp. 425-452). Footnotes or a revised list are added in the case of ascents that were not covered at that time. It is not possible for a work of this kind to be complete or wholly accurate. I apologize beforehand for errors and omissions. Please send corrections to the writer, c/o American Alpine Journal, 113 East 90th St., New York, N.Y., USA 10028. Naming of peaks. I have already covered in Part I of this survey (AAJ 1973) the problems that unsuitable peak names have created in the Andes of South America. The practice of naming new mountains in coun- tries like Bolivia and Chile differ greatly from those like, say, Peru. For some reason or other, new mountain names in the former two countries have been far more suitably chosen by mountaineers. In a small measure, the problems mentioned previously have also appeared in Bolivia and Chile, but this has been the exception rather than the rule. In Bolivia, the conscientious work done by foreign and local mountaineers alike has prevented much damage. Expeditions like those of the Bangor University College (1966) and the Bonicelli Bergamo party (1969), both to the A SURVEY OF ANDEAN ASCENTS 73 Cordillera Real, are to be commended for their sound choice of new names. Besides, several Bolivian mountaineering leaders have shown firm- ness in dealing with inappropriate names. In Chile, local climbers have shown on the average an inclination to christen peaks with descriptive names, which are usually the most appropriate ones. As of late 1973, a regulating board on geographic names was set up within the Instituto Geogrifico Militar and several mountaineers were invited to join. One can only expect that Argentina will follow these examples, the more so if we consider that recently imposed names in the central and Patagonian areas of the country are of a rather poor quality. Finally, regarding the spelling of Indian mountain names, I have used the following simple policy: a) if an Indian sound can be represented by a Spanish letter, then this character has been used; b) if an Indian sound can not be represented by a Spanish character, then the spelling used by climbers in their reports has been kept. Up to date corrections have also been introduced. BOLIVIA Cordillera de Apolobamba Peaks located on the Peruvian-Bolivian border have already been included in the Peruvian chapter (see AAJ 1973, pp. 401-402). 729. CoIolo (Ccachuca), 5915 m., 19,405 ft. 2. K. Miyazaki, T. Ohta, S. Okajima, 5.20.1965. S 1967, pp. 14-18 and AA.! 1966, p. 182. 730. Huelancalloc, 5836 m., 19,145 ft. 2. N. Maruyama, I. Yoshizawa, 8.13.1961. S 1962, pp. 21-65 and AAJ 1962, p. 254. 3. Same information as for #729, but 6.2.1965. 731. Coruquini, 5810 m., 19,062 ft. 1. K. Miyazaki, H. Ninomiya, 65.1965. S 1967, pp. 14-18 and AAJ 1966, pp. 182-3. 732. unnmned (“Huanaco”), 5750 m (?), 18,865 ft. W. Hufnagel, 0. Reus, 6.8.1968. AAI 1969, p. 443. 733. C’unisuya, 5706 m., 18,718 ft. 1. N. Maruyama, S. Nakagawa, 8.8.1961. S 1962, pp. 21-65 and AAJ 1962, p. 254. 2. K. Miyazaki, T. Ohta, S. Okajima, 6.1.1965. S 1967, pp. 14-18 and AAJ 1966, pp. 182-3. 734. Cuvuyuni, 5702 m., 18,707 ft. 1. .I. Amari, N. Maruyama, S. Nakagawa, 8.11.1961. S 1962, pp. 21-65 and AAJ 1962, p. 254. 2. Same information as for 733, 2nd ascent, but 5.31.1965. 735. Culisuyu, 5702 m., 18,707 ft. 1. Same information as for 733, 2nd ascent. 736. unnamed (“Presidente”), 5700 m (?), 18,701 ft. 1. R. Cots, J. Frontera, 7.21.1969. AA./ 1970, pp. 171-2. (Note.- according to source quoted, this peak corresponds to point 5640 m., of map of British Imperial College Expedition; see also AA/ 1960, pp. 37-42). 74 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 737. unnamed (Taro), 5700 m (?), 18,701 ft. 1. E. Hoffman, H. Wolf, 6.11.1968. AAJ 1969, p. 443. 738. Corohuuri, 5668 m., 18,597 ft. 1. T. Ohta, S. Okajima, 6.5.1965. S 1967, pp. 14-18 and AAJ 1966, pp. 182-3. 739. Acumuni, 5666 m., 18,588 ft. 1. K. Kurachi, H. Nakajima, T. Nakamura, 8.10.1961. S 1962, pp. 21-65 and AAJ 1962, p. 254. 2. Same information as for #733, 2nd ascent, but 5.30.1965. 740. unnamed (Cuchillo I), 5655 m., 18,548 ft. 1. K. Miyazaki, S. Okajima, 5.28.1965. S 1967, pp. 14-18 and AAJ 1966, pp. 182-3. 741. unnamed (“Manresa”), 5655 m., 18,548 ft. 1. R. Cots, R. Majo, 8.16.1969. AAJ 1970, pp. 171-2. 742. unnamed (“Monserrat Norte”), 5655 m., 18,548 ft. 1. A. Bahi, J. Montfort, 7.17.1969. AAJ 1970, pp. 171-2. 743. Nevudo Curuc, 5650 m., 18,537 ft. 1. Same information as for #742, but 7.21.1969. 744. unnamed (“Apolo XI”), 5650 m., 18,537 ft. 1. R. Cots, J. Fron- tera, 7.21.1969. AAJ 1970, pp. 171-2. 745. Nevado Sulficu, 5635 m., 18,486 ft. 1. Same information as for #742, but 7.21.1969. 746. Cutuntica Oeste (Catantica I), 5630 m., 18,471 ft. 1. K. Gross, H. Wolf, 5.24.1968. AAJ 1969, p. 443. 2. J. Gorter, D. Hasse, W. Helbig, K. Dorschel, W. Schiemann, G. Schiitte, 5.30.1969. AAJ 1970, p. 174. 747. Cutunticu Central (Catantica III), 5610 m., 18,406 ft. I. K. Gross, D. Hain, 5.27.1968. AAJ 1969, p. 443. 748. Nevudo Lloco Lloco, 5605 m., 18,388 ft. 1. J. Montfort, 7.17. 1969. AAJ 1970, p. 172. 749. Yunuorco, 5600 m., 18,373 ft. 1. H. Nakajima, T. Nakamura, K. Kurachi, 8.12.1961. S 1962, pp. 21-65 and AA.! 1962, p. 254. 750. Cutunticu Este (Catantica IV), 5592 m., 18,346 ft. 1. E. Hof- mann, H. Wolf, 5.27.1968. AAJ 1969, p. 443.
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