Malaysia's Coconut Shrimp and Rice Salad
| ■ July–August 2019 ◆ Coconut, lime and herbs often coconut milk. After the rice shrimp well before using. transform rice and shrimp cools, the remaining herbs are thinly Don’t use sweetened shredded sliced and stirred in, keeping their coconut flakes; their sweetness will flavors fresh, not cooked. Savory fish alter the flavor of the dish. Malaysia’s Coconut Shrimp sauce or shrimp paste adds richness, —Yvonne Ruperti and fried fish adds substance. and Rice Salad At Milk Street, we loved the com- 1½ cups jasmine rice, rinsed and bination of ample fresh herbs paired drained with rice and savory seafood. But we ½ cup coconut milk needed to simplify. We started with ¼ cup lime juice the herbs, limiting our recipe to basil, 2 tablespoons fish sauce cilantro and mint. We replicated the 3 tablespoons finely grated fresh subtle taste of kaffir lime leaves by ginger adding lime juice to the dressing. And 8 scallions, thinly sliced, white and in lieu of fried fish, we found that green parts reserved separately poached shrimp—soaked briefly in Kosher salt the coconut milk dressing—added 1 pound cooked medium shrimp, briny meatiness that complemented tails removed, cut into bite-size the herbs and citrus. pieces The resulting dish was light but 1 cup lightly packed fresh basil intensely fragrant, with a slight sweet- leaves, finely chopped ness from the coconut and shrimp 1 cup lightly packed fresh cilantro and a brightness from ginger and leaves, finely chopped lime juice—a taste of Malaysia made ½ cup unsweetened shredded more familiar. coconut, toasted
In a large saucepan Jasmine Rice and Herb Salad ■ over medium- with Shrimp (Nasi Ulam) high, bring the rice and 2 cups water Suffused with fresh herbs, this rice dish makes for a refreshing light meal. to a simmer, then reduce to low, cover Start to finish: 35 minutes and cook until tender and the water is Story by Albert Stumm “What nasi ulam is, is a whole Servings: 4 absorbed, about 12 minutes. Turn off bunch of goodness in one bowl,” she alaysian nasi ulam, a rice the heat and let the rice sit, covered, ardens in northeast Malaysia says, noting that the dish evolved after Mdish suffused with Southeast for 10 minutes. Goverflow with aromatic plants the arrival of Chinese immigrants in Asian herbs, inspired this recipe. We ■ Meanwhile, line a rimmed baking unfamiliar to most of us—wild betel, the 15th century. Their descendants use readily available herbs and add sheet with kitchen parchment. When turmeric, flowering torch ginger, intermarried with locals, adopted the shrimp to make a light main dish out the rice is done, fluff with a fork, galangal, kaffir lime—as well as more dish and added coconut and fried fish, of the salad. If you find Thai basil, use then spread in an even layer on the common lemon grass, mint, cilantro then served it with a spicy sambal chili it in place of Italian basil. You can prepared baking sheet. Let cool for and many types of basil. sauce. The result is a pleasant cacoph- buy precooked shrimp at most 15 minutes. And they all play a role in nasi ony of flavors and textures defined by supermarkets, but we recommend ■ In a large bowl, whisk together the ulam, a richly herbal and vibrantly vivid, bright contrasts. poaching your own peeled and dev- coconut milk, lime juice, fish sauce, textured rice salad. Rooted in tra- Despite the lengthy list of herbs eined shrimp in barely simmering ginger, scallion whites and 1 teaspoon ditional medicine, it originally was and seasonings, making nasi ulam is water seasoned with a handful of salt. Add the shrimp, toss and let stand intended to cleanse the body of toxins, a simple process. Cooks prepare jas- cilantro stems. Cook just until the for 5 minutes. Add the rice, scallion says Christina Arokiasamy, author of mine rice, scenting the cooking water shrimp turn opaque, then transfer to greens, basil, cilantro and coconut and “The Malaysian Kitchen.” with one or more of the herbs and ice water to stop the cooking. Dry the toss. Taste and season with salt. ◆
Perfectly Poached Shrimp juice squeezed into the water), 4 to 5 minutes. Drain, then e sometimes buy precooked 5 bay leaves, 1 tablespoon quickly transfer to a bowl Wshrimp in a pinch, but they often whole black peppercorns and of ice water to stop are rubbery and tasteless. Poaching 1 teaspoon whole cloves. Boil the cooking. Once your own not only is quick and easy, it for 3 minutes, then remove from cold, drain, discard also delivers better texture and allows the heat. Add 1 pound uncooked seasonings and you to flavor the cooking water. shrimp (peeled and deveined). transfer to a paper In a Dutch oven, bring to a boil Cover and let stand until the shrimp towel-lined bowl. 8 cups water, 1 lemon (halved and are opaque and cooked through, Dry well before using. ◆ Photos: Connie Miller of CB Creatives; Styling: Christine Tobin
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