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20 urban oases: relax and unwind without breaking the bank

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;22 Royal Shipyards A ship with a new life. MARIA DIAS

08 Feature 22 Around town Spas! Oases of pleasure The Royal Shipyards reopen hidden in the city. after their refurbishment. 14 Food & drink 24 Arts Gastrobars: bars with The Picasso Museum. gourmet menus. 26 Nightlife 20 Shopping Jazz club new programme. Henna Morena: slow beauty. 29 Listings

TIME OUT BARCELONA TIME OUT BCN GUIDE Advertising Executives Nuria Via Laietana, 20 [email protected] Gómez ([email protected]), 932955400 www.barcelonaturisme.com Mercè Llubera www.timeout.cat Editor Andreu Gomila ([email protected]) Design Irisnegro Edited by 80 + 4 Publicacions Publisher Eduard Voltas Producer Jan Fleischer & Turisme de Barcelona Finance Manager Judit Sans Designer Eduard Forroll Printed by Bigsa Indústria Gràfica Editor-in-chief Andreu Gomila Writers Josep Lambies, DL B.21656-2012 Art director Diego Ricard Martín, Marta Salicrú, ISSN 2014-7546 Piccininno Eugènia Sendra Supported by Features and web editor Translations Maria José Gómez Nick Chapman

March 2013 Time Out BCN Guide 3 Monthly planner Get out your diaries! We present just a handful of the cultural highlights of the month ahead.

Saturday 03 Friday 08 Sunday 10

SANT MEDIR GUITAR FESTIVAL: STREET CALÇOTADA The city’s sweetest ESTHER CONDAL AND HUMAN festival. Gràcia, + FANNY FOZ TOWERS Sarrià-St.Gervasi Let yourself be Strap on your bib and La Bordeta carried away by the and head for prepare for a sugar voice of Esther Poblesec. high. See p. 38 Condal. See p. 41 See p. 42

Friday 15 Sunday 17

ELS AMICS DE ZURICH BCN LES ARTS MARATHON 2013 Catalan folk-pop The city’s full group promote their marathon challenge new CD ‘Espècies fills the streets of per catalogar’. Barcelona. See p. 44 See p. 45 IBAI ACEVEDO Thursday 21 Saturday 23 Wednesday 00

LUDOVICO TOT FESTIVAL EINAUDI A festival of The italian pianist puppets and object and composer theatre at the presents a new . project. Family fun. See p. 46 See p. 47

Sunday 24 Wednesday 27

PALM MADAME SUNDAY BUTTERFLY One of the most Puccini’s best- important dates in known opera ’s returns to the religious calendar. opera house. See p. 48 See p.49

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The Hot Seat

Joan de Muga ORIOL MALET World-famous Polígrafa say they’ve published enough art plates to paper every wall in town. By Ada Castells

Polígrafa is 100 this year. In the How has the economic crisis current climate, that’s good going. affected you? The business was started by my We survive thanks to the grandfather, a linotype machine international market. Once the operator, with two of his friends, as Spanish market and sales to a commercial print house. My father museums and institutions were joined the business when he was very important, but that has 15. In the 1960s he met Joan Prats, practically dried up, and private a friend of the painter Joan Miró, collectors are also less active. and encouraged him to become an And how is it affecting artists? editor. Polígrafa became the We work with several artists on a publishers of Miró, Max Ernst, long-term basis, and we also try to Antoni Tàpies and Henry Moore. make new contacts internationally. Where is the company today? We work with Spanish artists like We’re no longer a printing house, Perejaume, Evru, Antoni Muntadas but we have a printing studio that and Eulàlia Valldosera. Then there’s attracts artists from all over the our historical work with names like world. One of our best clients is Ràfols Casamada, Hernández New York’s MOMA, and they Pijoan, Guinovart and Joan Brossa. consider us to be one of the best graphic arts publishers in the world – number one as regards 100 new production – and this The number of years that guarantees us a place at the most Polígrafa’s presses have exclusive art shows, such as Art been rolling. Basel Miami or Basel Hong Kong.

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Barcelona is full of tiny oases of calm where you can seek refuge from city stress. Leave your worries behind and give yourself over to pleasure. By Cristina García

YHI SPA HOTEL ME more of play space than a therapy The Hotel Me, part of the Sol Melià centre; from 10am to 11.30am you can chain, incorporates a spa with a hydro even take your kids. The facilities zone (hydro massage pools, include a hydro massage pool, hydrotherapy showers, dry sauna and Turkish bath, sauna, boulder pool, steam room), a relaxation area, gym Indo-Roman baths and an ice cave. and treatment booth. The good news Cardenal Reig, 11 is that the spa is open to the public, Y 93 260 99 00 and offers very competitive prices. www.hotelsenatorbarcelona.com You can use the water circuit, €15 (90 mins on the water circuit) relaxation area and gym for only €10. Pere IV, 272-286 MAJESTIC SPA Y 93 221 10 00 You have two options: take the plunge http://es.melia.com/hoteles/ and try one of the Majestic’s tempting espana/barcelona/me-barcelona treatments and rituals (priced from €10 (water circuit) €50), or use the hydrotherapy zone. The second option gives you and up to MELIÀ BARCELONA three others exclusive use of a room Bi-thermal showers, sauna, Turkish with a sauna, steam bath, ice fountain bath, heat couches and a pool with a and sensations shower. whirlpool: the works. Non-residents Passeig de Gràcia, 68 can take advantage of a €30 pass that Y 93 488 17 17 covers two full-day sessions, www.hotelmajestic.es including access to the water circuit €15 (30 mins on the water circuit) and a massage. Avinguda Sarrià, 50 NATURAL SPA HOTEL Y 93 410 60 60 FIRA CONGRESS www.melia-barcelona.com One of the luxury hotels that serve €12 (water circuit) users of the new trade fair complex on Montjuïc. Entrance to the hydro centre ACQUAPLAYA HOTEL SENATOR is free when you take a treatment. The Hotel Senator has a small urban José Agustín Goytisolo, 9-11 beach in its basement, which it sees as (L’Hospitalet de Llobregat)

8 Time Out BCN Guide March 2013 MANDARIN ORIENTAL SPA

March 2013 Time Out BCN Guide 9 Avinguda Joan XXIII, s/n Y 93 508 10 96 [email protected] www.aquadiagonal.com €26 (water circuit)

METROPOLITAN SAGRADA FAMÍLIA Run by the Metropolitan chain, this is a luxurious, spacious, modern complex, whose enormous pool area is one of its main attractions. There’s a hydro massage pool in the changing rooms, a Turkish bath and a sauna, and in the public area, a pool with ‘thermoludic’ eff ects, a sauna with TV, a hamam, bi-thermal and steam MELIÀ BARCELONA showers and an ice fountain – all this plus two swimming pools. Provença, 408 Y 93 507 33 25 Y93 267 18 00 www.clubmetropolitan.net http://www.fi racongress.com/ €30 (water circuit) / €64 (monthly €16 (water circuit) membership)

AIRE DE BARCELONA THE ROYAL CLUB FITNESS BANYS ÀRABS It’s all here: sauna, caldarium, cold and Aire de Barcelona revives the heated swimming pools, mild steam tradition of the Arab baths, sauna, pressure showers, and more. themselves successors to the great The décor harks back to the Roman Roman public baths. In the midst of origins of the public baths. Entrance the remains of medieval Barcelona in to the spa can be complemented with the Born, these carefully restored and massages and their gym – or if you modernised Arab baths off er the prefer, you can lounge in the pool with classic bathing combination of the Mediterranean as a backdrop. Templarium (warm), Caldarium (hot) Diagonal, 661-671 and Frigidarium (cold). The basic Y 93 364 41 41 package includes a hamam steam http://www.hrjuancarlos.com bath, and can be extended with a €32.10 (water circuit) massage or exfoliation on hot marble. Passeig Picasso, 22 SKIPPER’S Y 902 55 57 89 The hydro massage pool at Skipper’s www.airedebarcelona.com has views of Montjuïc. The pool area €29 (water circuit + aromatherapy) isn’t huge (hydro massage, steam bath, ice basin and contrast showers, AQUA DIAGONAL with essential oils and aromatherapy), WELLNESS CENTRE but there is a small outdoor hydro This is spa shares a premises with the massage pool next to the main pool. If Hotel Princess Sofi a, and they like to you opt for a treatment, entrance to keep things exclusive, although non- this area is free; or it’s €35 to use the residents can purchase a one-day indoor space and €50 for the outdoors. pass. The spa zone lacks for nothing: Avinguda del Litoral, 10 Scottish showers (alternating hot and Y 93 221 65 65 cold), hydro massage baths, and the www.hotelabskipper.com garden pool with a retractable roof. €25 (water circuit)

10 Time Out BCN Guide March 2013 AIRE DE BARCELONA BANYS ÀRABS

FLOTARIUM O2 CENTRO WELLNESS Imagine a giant capsule, containing First-class facilities: from the pool, 600 litres of water (with 300kg of with its gigantic window looking onto healing salts dissolved in it), into the city, to the saunas, steam baths which you can seal yourself off from and ice fountains, all intimate and the outside world, without light, tastefully decorated spaces. On a sound or any another external stimuli. sunny day, don’t miss the chance to go The sensory isolation is complete, and up to the solarium – an enormous roof the feeling of weightlessness means terrace with fantastic views of the that after 20 minutes, the body starts Villa Amèlia gardens. to generate endorphins, which help to Eduardo Conde, 2-6 aid in total physical and mental Y 93 205 39 76 relaxation. www.o2centrowellness.com Plaça Narcís Oller, 3 €50 (water circuit) Y 93 217 36 37 info@fl otarium.com www.fl otarium.com MARÍTIM ESPORT TALASSA €35 (one hour in the Flotarium) Located on the site of the old Barceloneta swimming club, this SPACIOMM municipal sports centre houses This blissfully peaceful oasis, an Catalonia’s fi rst Thalassotherapy intimate, cosy and gently lit space, centre, which uses sea water as the feels light years away from the bustle basis of therapeutic treatments. of the city centre – which you’ll soon Enjoy fi ve freshwater and salt water forget is just outside. You can choose pools at diff erent temperatures, with to enter the water zone only (with high-pressure water jets. hamam, foot baths, ice fountain, Passeig Marítim, 33 contrast showers and a hydro Y 93 224 04 40 massage pool), but the experience just €16.88 (water circuit for one day) / wouldn’t be complete without trying €50.34 (monthly membership) one of their treatments or rituals. Passeig de Gràcia, 106 RITUELS D’ORIENT Y 93 445 40 00 Behind its modest entranceway, www.hotelomm.es Rituels d’Orient contains a paradise in €50 (water circuit) miniature, a hamam split into two

March 2013 Time Out BCN Guide 11 spaces. The fi rst one is maintained at Marina, 19-21 37°C by under-fl oor heating, and the Y 93 221 10 00 second is a 46°C steam room. The www.hotelartsbarcelona.com hamam experience is said to help €75 (water circuit + facial eliminate toxins in the body and massage) improve blood circulation. Loreto, 50 ABAC RESTAURANT HOTEL Y 93 419 14 72 In addition to its two Michelin stars, www.rituelsdorient.com Xavier Pellicer’s hotel-restaurant has €28 (water circuit) a spa as well. The hotel off ers a one- night stay, a gourmet breakfast, a GRAN HOTEL LA FLORIDA 30-minute spa treatment of your The views from the top of the choice, and access to the hydro centre Collserola could practically be – all for a modest €251. considered a therapeutic treatment in Avinguda Tibidabo, 1 and of themselves, but if that’s not Y 93 319 66 00 enough to help you achieve total www.abacbarcelona.com relaxation, the Gran Hotel La Florida From €135 (water circuit + also off ers an ice fountain, sauna, treatment) hydro massage pool and hot plunge baths. If you book a massage, MANDARIN ORIENTAL SPA entrance costs only €25. Right in the city centre on the Carretera de Vallvidriera al sprawling Passeig de Gràcia, the Tibidabo, 83-93 Mandarin Oriental boasts an Y 93 259 30 00 exclusive spa with a 12-metre pool, www.hotellafl orida.com an oriental steam room and a €50 (water circuit) relaxation zone up on the roof terrace where there’s also an open-air AQUA URBAN SPA pool. They also off er a long menu of Water as a therapeutic tool is the beauty treatments, but bear in mind maxim of this independent spa in the that these are not suitable for all Jardinets de Gràcia. It has all the pockets. facilities of a traditional public bath, Passeig de Gràcia 38-40 with a hydro massage pool, steam Y93 151 88 88 baths (although no dry sauna), warm www.mandarinoriental.es couches, various hydrotherapy From €60 (water circuit + systems and a bed of river stones treatment) under a contrast shower, designed to stimulate circulation in the legs. Gran de Gràcia, 7 Y 93 238 41 60 www.aqua-urbanspa.com €28 (offer available Mon-Thu: 90 mins on the water circuit)

SIX SENSES Luxury and panoramic views are the big selling points at the Hotel Arts spa. They have it all: hydro massage, sauna and steam baths (segregated by sex), elegant relaxation areas, eight spa treatment booths and two SIX SENSES HOTEL ARTS terraces on opposite sides of the building, so you never have to miss a minute of sunshine.

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Food & Drink Edited by Ricard Martín [email protected]

A bite at the bar Barcelona embraces the ‘gastrobar’ concept, with the opening of two fantastic new bars, one Asturian, one Catalan. By Ricard Martín

Seafood, salty air and taverns: Muedra prides himself on the fact that ‘Barceloneta is the of the new restaurant – you could call it Barcelona,’ says Jaume Muedra, the Seaside Bar 2.1 – is the work of ‘people co-owner, with business partner and from the neighbourhood who have chef Sebas Matarrodona, of stunning come home, and done things the way new tapas bar L’Òstia. And at €1.50 the neighbourhood wanted’. And the for a draught beer, they’re not passing worn-out label of mama’s or the decorator’s bill on to the customer. grandma’s cooking, in this case, is nothing less than the truth: Muedra’s A homecoming mother, Pepita Rigol, is constantly This isn’t a case of gastronomic popping out of the kitchen to make pedigree bought with a few fat suggestions. About half the tapas and cheques. Muedra is coming home. other dishes on the menu come straight After 20 years as the commercial from her recipe book, including the director of a multinational, he’s aforementioned squid rings, as well as swapped the world of business for an excellent oxtail and outstanding battered squid rings. potato bombas with beef and pork

14 Time Out BCN Guide March 2013 L’ÒSTIA LLAMBER Food & Drink Food L’ÒSTIA FOTOS: IVAN GIMÉNEZ FOTOS: IVAN stuffing. It’s a familiar Catalan menu: chorizo in cider and so on’ – for the fried fish, stews, tasting dishes – but time being the focus is on a tapas and there are also novelties like their tasting dish menu that reflects his Parmentier purée with a slice of distinctive culinary philosophy. For sautéed foie gras, egg yolk and a drop example, anchovies on a bed of sweet of truffle oil that had Ferran Adrià spelt bread and La Peral cheese. Or himself grabbing his mobile phone to potatoes with blue Cabrales cheese record the moment. Altogether, a and almond praline, a dramatic delicious journey into the past combination of flavours. ‘I want us to anchored by the eternal presence of be known as a tapas bar where you mum in the kitchen. can taste genuine Asturian products,’ Heras says. Take note: the bar offers updated 30 selected wines by the glass, and the Llamber, near the Born Mercat, wine cellar no fewer than 120 wines, defines itself as a gastronomic tavern. and the kitchen is open continuously Fran Heras, a young chef with a long from 1pm to midnight, seven days a CV (including El Bulli, Freixa and week. Asturian food, that timid Arola) and a refreshing lack of Northern cousin in the family of pretension (‘Signature cuisine? I cook Spanish cuisine, is making its what I like, that’s all.’) and Eva presence felt in Barcelona. Arbonés, in charge of the front of house and a veritable arsenal of L’ÒSTIA wines, have created something very, Pl. de la Barceloneta, s/n. very interesting. Llamber opened last T. 93 221 47 58. P: €15-€30 year, and while Heras’s plan is to offer LLAMBER classic Asturian dishes – ‘broad beans Fusina, 5. with clams, scorpion fish terrine, T. 93 319 62 50. P: €20-€35

March 2013 Time Out BCN Guide 15 Marítim IIIII Moll d’Espanya, s/n. T. 93 221 17 75. About €40

There are some corners of Barcelona

Food Drink & that any city would be delighted to incorporate into its landscape. Marítim is one of them – possibly the only restaurant terrace in town with a view of one of the city’s best profiles, the seaward end of the Rambla. With a glass of fino sherry as an aperitif, we watch sailing boats and fishermen pass by, as our order of Sant Carles langoustines arrives. Basque chef Anxón Arribillaga leads a great team in the kitchen, and promises to establish the restaurant as one of the best in the area. Their trademark use THE BILL of charcoal for grilling brings out the flavour of prawns and wild fish, and MARÍTIM (FOR TWO) is naturally suited to meats. To begin, 1 Sea water–cooked langoustines 18 you can choose from a selection of 1 Fish soup 9 starters to share – cockles, mussels, 1 Pappardelle 8 calamari, patatas bravas or fried fish 1 Charcoal-grilled boniato 17.50 – and there’s also an excellent fish 1 Tart de la casa 5 soup, and round out the meal with 1 Apple pie 5 some great desserts, although the 1 Petit Caus 18 wine list could be improved. All the 2 Portions white bread 3.90 ingredients of a classic – and of 2 Coffees 3.75 course, there’s that unbeatable TOTAL (inc VAT) €88.15 location. –Marcelo Aparicio Salmon and avocado terrine

It looks like a salmon tartare on a base of avocado, but the fish is THE DISH delicately sliced and the avocado has been drizzled with soy. A magnificent combination of flavours and textures. –M.A.

MITO Av. Sarrià, 17. T. 93 410 94 93. Price: €9 IVAN GIMÉNEZ IVAN

16 Time Out BCN Guide March 2013

interior design, Bosco clearly means to make its mark in the neighbourhood, with tempting dishes such as cannelloni stuffed with roast poularde, wild mushrooms and foie gras. Great food Hot for sharing. –M.A. (Capellans, 9). M: Catalunya (L1,L3) & Urquinaona (L1,L4). T. 93 412 13 70. tables! €20-€30. Set lunch menu available. Edited by Marcelo Aparicio Cafè del Gallery Our themed selection Quality and discretion This unassuming hotel restaurant, which has of Barcelona’s best one of the best terraces in the restaurants. district, offers a well-thought-out menu and excellent value for money. Fresh By Marcelo Aparicio products, great seafood and plenty of imagination from chef Dani Ortiz, formerly of Petit Comité. –M.A. (Rosselló, 249). M: Diagonal (L3-L5). T. Food Med 93 415 99 11. €20-€40. Set lunch menu Bistronou available. Mediterranean bistro Bistronou is a fresh take on the bistro concept, with a Cafè Salambó Mediterranean spirit, and strong Catalan Intellectual bistro A fixture on – but also Italian – influences. Take your Gràcia’s bar and restaurant scene, pick from half or full portions of delicacies Salambó is worth a visit for many such as artichokes from El Prat or giant reasons: the wood-lined interior that ravioli with buffalo ricotta and spinach gives it the feel of an old-fashioned with rich tomato sauce. Or some extremely neighbourhood café, the billiard tables tasty Iberian ham croquettes. –M.A. upstairs and the regular crowd of aging (Aribau, 106). M: Provença (FGC). hipsters, attracted by the food – and the T. 93 451 40 60. €20-€30. Set lunch proximity to the Verdi Park cinema next menu available. door. –R.M. (Torrijos, 51). M: Fontana (L3). T. 93 218 69 66. €15-€20. Set lunch menu Blau available. Fresh and simple Fresh, simple, satisfying cooking, in a converted townhouse in the Sants district, with its Cent Onze own interior patio. They also organise a Real food on La Rambla This range of artistic events. –Ricard Martín luxurious restaurant has a privileged (Tenor Masini, 61). M: Plaça de Sants view of the busy life of La Rambla, and (L1,L5) & Badal (L5). T. 93 330 01 12. offers creative modern cooking with a €15-€20. Set lunch menu available. decent wine list. Their evening tasting menu offers plenty of variety, and at €33, great value for money. –M.A. Bohèmic (La Rambla, 111). M: Catalunya (L1,L3). Modern bodega A small restaurant- T. 93 316 46 60. €20-€30. Set lunch and bar, styled like a modern bodega, where dinner menus available. tapas tradition and innovation exist side by side. Everything from Spanish potato salad (ensaladilla rusa) to hare Delicias Kosher cannelloni. –R.M. It’s kosher! Barcelona’s only kosher (Manso, 42). M: Poble Sec (L3) & Sant restaurant offers a huge variety of Antoni (L2). T. 93 424 06 28. €30-€40. traditional Jewish dishes from around Set lunch menu available. the world, including grilled meats, stews and starters. Try their shakshuka, eggs poached on a spicy tomato and Bosco vegetable sauce. –M.A. Welcoming and tempting With its (Santaló, 125). M: Muntaner (FGC). welcoming atmosphere and stunning T. 93 201 09 04. €20-€30.

18 Time Out BCN Guide March 2013 March 2013 Time Out BCN Guide 19 Shopping Edited by Eugenia Sendra [email protected] FOTOS: MARIA DIAS The henna club Henna Morena is a new space in the Born where you can find out all about henna. Natural beauty is back. By Laia Beltran

Sandra Vivancos has been familiar what she’s called her recently-opened with scissors, hairdryers and dyes shop in the Born, and it’s also the from an early age, as her mum was a name of her ‘slow cosmetics’ line of hairdresser. But she was also girl with natural products inspired by henna an inquisitive streak. At 21, she and its near-magical properties. travelled to India and discovered the If you book in advance, you can get range of natural products Indian a henna application and women used to care for their hair – a recommendations of the best natural world away from the industrial treatments especially for your hair. A products used in the West. Twelve mirror, a chair and a couple of spare years ago, she opened the first all- hours – that’s all it takes to enter the organic salon in Barcelona, possibly henna club. the first in . This is where she Sandra makes an infusion of nettle began her personal mission: to and lavender, and leaves it to brew for convince women that there’s a kinder five minutes. It’s not to drink but to way to treat their hair, without mix with the henna, a green powder silicone or petroleum by-products. made of the dried leaves of the henna Her faith in the powers of henna, a tree, milled fine. The end result makes plant that flowers only once a year, a perfect present. and which has been used in hair care for millennia, inspired her to close HENNA MORENA down the salon and take on a new Esparteria, 12. challenge: Henna Morena. That’s T. 93 315 11 91.

20 Time Out BCN Guide March 2013 Shopping 21 owers fl natural rubber according to Time Out BCN Guide , from Italian specialists , Anna Gayoso makes craft makes Anna Gayoso soaps in her workshop Empordà in Catalonia’s using region, and plants of biodynamics the laws (€7.52 per bar). Brushing your hair three times is good for you. See a day for yourself with this wooden brush that has bristles (€16.22). Tek March 2013 , , come in a range of come , bottle of almond packet of henna packet candles, made in candles, (€23.90). To apply henna, all you apply henna, To need are the two star products of the house: a small which includes a sachet of herbs needed to make the infusion (€13.80) and a oil Segovia fragrances – like evocative with from Havana’, ‘Postcard and limean aroma of mint (€22). Olivia Around Town Edited by Eugènia Sendra [email protected] MARIA DIAS The city and the sea Barcelona’s Royal Shipyards reopen this month. Eugènia Sendra breaks a bottle against the bow

The Drassanes Reials, home of the talks about how much work the staff city’s maritime museum, have been have put into the project, adding, ‘As closed for the last three years, during public sector workers, we must put which time restoration works something back into society.’ designed to bring the museum into The Royal Shipyards (and the the 21st century have laid bare the Museu Marítim) have an obvious and building’s thousand-year history. essential link with the sea. Marcet The main structure was begun in stresses the importance of the city’s the eighth century, and despite many relationship with its maritime later alterations, its original Gothic history. ‘The memory of the city’s style was maintained throughout. walls and the railway tracks means After serving as a shipyard, it was the city’s relationship with the sea is converted into an artillery workshop almost non-existent – but Barcelona in the 19th century, and later into a is Barcelona because of its port and barracks. In 2011, work under the the sea.’ He talks about the challenge foundations uncovered a Roman of reviving a sense of the city’s graveyard dating from the first to the maritime identity, reaffirming its fourth centuries AD. Various finds links with the Mediterranean, and were made, including a mausoleum explaining the relationship of man and an intact glass funerary urn. and the sea. Time to raise the Museum director Roger Marcet anchors…

22 Time Out BCN Guide March 2013

Arts Edited by Josep Lambies [email protected]

Picasso’s ceramics The Picasso Museum celebrates Jacqueline Picasso’s gift of 41 ceramic works to the city of Barcelona. By Ricard Mas

embody an incredible, near- IIIII mythological love story. Picasso is really traditional art’s last great through April 2. Jupiter fi gure, although most consider him the father of contemporary art. Ceramics no longer grab the public’s You could call him a Doric artist, from imagination like they used to. An art the age before Logos, when Lapiths form born out of Neolithic and Centaurs were battling it out, and agricultural surpluses was relegated, myths were myths – not in the 20th century, to a strictly psychoanalytical explanations for decorative role. Earth, water and fi re; who knows what. physical and symbolic containers: In 1947, at the age of 66, after living today they fi ll museums that attract through two world wars, Pablo more dust than visitors. This is why I Picasso began to spend long periods recommend a visit to the Picasso at the Madoura pottery, at Vallauris in Museum’s latest show, which the south of France. Here he became celebrates the 30th anniversary of fascinated with ceramics as a return Jacqueline Picasso’s donation of 41 to simplicity, a material and tactile ceramic works to the city. The pieces practice that allowed him to

24 Time Out BCN Guide March 2013 experiment in a medium with its own traditions: an irregular surface, full of Music pictorial possibilities that went back to cubism. Picasso met the young Jacqueline – Plucking then 27 years old, with a Doric profi le – at the Vallauris pottery’s shop, and amazing they were married a few years later. Thereafter Picasso rarely strayed from the south of France – Cannes, Mougins – always staying close to Jacqueline and the workshop in Vallauris. In 1982, on the occasion of a exhibition of Picasso’s ceramics – commemorating the painter’s birth a year late – Jacqueline made the bequest that we can enjoy today. In the meantime, the museum has expanded to fi ll half of Carrer Montcada, the culture industry has grown more industrial than ever, and Barcelona’s guitar festival is back, Barcelona has become part of the re-christened Guitar Festival BCN. In European Union – for the time being. this, its 24th year, it promises warm, It’s hard to imagine now that when intimate concerts with a programme the original exhibition was postponed that will warm the cockles of many a from 1981 to 1982, it was because the music lover’s heart. The festival’s 40 cost had ballooned to €21,500, and concerts, taking place from February after it was extended for two months, until June, feature artists linked by at the height of Spain’s football World the centrality of the guitar to their Cup fever, it reached the dizzying total work. It includes visits from artists of of 21,638 visitors – today, that’s fewer international standing such as Eels Arts than the museum receives on an and Ron Sexsmith; iconic fi gures on average week. It’s worth a visit just to the local scene, from Antònia Font see how far the city has come since and Factor Delafé y las Flores Azules then. You’ll also fi nd proof of to Standstill; and live concerts from Picasso’s love for Jacqueline, upcoming artists with a promising archetypal themes and brilliant future ahead of them. brushstrokes depicting bulls, suns The Time Out Ladies concert cycle and fi sh. is one of this year’s innovations, showcasing female performers of the moment. The cycle features Esther Condal, presenting her elegant debut Home; Fanny Roz, bringing her Prend son souffl e et saute! to the stage; Soledad Vélez, presenting Wild Fishing, accompanied by guitar and ukulele; London four-piece Allo Darlin’; and the dulcet tones of British singer Alessi’s Ark. A soundtrack to make the slow transition to spring a little easier to bear.

24 GUITAR FESTIVAL BCN Various venues.

‘Sol i brau’, 1959. ‘Sol i brau’, Until 14 June

March 2013 Time Out BCN Guide 25 Nightlife Edited by Ricard Martín [email protected]

Beyond jazz Barcelona’s most emblematic jazz venue broadens its programme to include dance, theatre, literature and cinema. By Ricard Martín

There’s a miniature earthquake on jazz cinema sessions; and on the fi rst Barcelona’s jazz scene: Jamboree is and second Sunday of the month, shaking things up with changes to its concerts will start early to make way programme and new hands at the for swing dances with a live band, helm. The artistic director of the next followed by DJs – a marathon session phase of the Plaça Reial’s basement for those who like to dance the soles club is specialist jazz journalist Pere off their shoes. As for concerts, Pons Pons. What he wants is to make says the venue will focus on ‘all kinds Jamboree an ‘open house for anyone of creative music with its roots in the creative with an exciting proposal’. African-American tradition, but we’ll The biggest change is his decision to also take in singer-songwriters with a extend the venue’s usual remit to take personal vision’. To the objection that in theatre, literature and dance as this opening-up is overly cautious, well, ‘so long as jazz remains the closely aligned with the tastes of common denominator’. Jamboree’s existing audience, Pons protests: ‘We won’t be putting on In with the new punk acts for the time being, but When off ered the chance to choose a we’re not shutting the doors on new direction for the club, Pons was anything, however way-out.’ given carte blanche to ‘get to the heart of the matter instead of just JAMBOREE tinkering about’. Plaça Reial, 17 This means, for example, monthly T. 93 319 17 89

26 Time Out BCN Guide Març 2013

Listings March 2013 [email protected] IBAI ACEVEDO

Sant Els Amics Madame Medir de les Arts Butterfly

SUNDAY 03 FRIDAY 15 WEDNESDAY 27 The streets of Catalan folk- The tragic geisha Gràcia, Sarrià-Sant popsters present girl returns to the Gervasi and La their new Liceu, in Puccini’s Bordeta go sweet album. You have a most popular crazy! chance! opera.

MarchMarç 20132013 TimeTime OutOut BCNBCN GuideGuide | 29 Can Framis. Fundació Exhibitions Vila Casas Information and sales: (Roc Boronat, 116-126). M: Glòries Tourist Information Points and (L1), Poblenou (L4) & Llacuna (L4). T. www.barcelonaturisme.cat 93 320 87 36. Tue-Sat., 11am-6pm. Sun, 11am-2pm. €5 adults. €2 students and pensioners. Arxiu Fotogràfic de 100 years of Clavé From 4 Mar Barcelona until 14 Jul. An homage to painter, printmaker and designer Antoni Clavé, (Pl. Pons & Clerch, 2). M: drawing on the Foundation’s collection. (L1) & Jaume & (L4). T. 93 256 34 20. Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm. FREE Postwar Barcelona March to Castell de Montjuïc September. (Ctra. de Montjuïc, 66). M: Espanya (L1-L3-FGC). T. 93 256 44 45. FREE Unearthing the silence. Arxiu Històric de la Mon-Sat, 10am-6.30pm Until 22 Mar. Ciutat de Barcelona The fate of school teachers during the Spanish Republic, with a special focus (Santa Llúcia, 1). M: Jaume & (L4) & Antoni Benaiges. Urquinaona (L1-L4). T. 93 31 81 195. FREE Pati díArmes. Sales 16 & Mon-Fri, 9am-8.30pm. Sun, 9am- 17 Silent force, photographs by 1pm. Liu Xia Mon - Sun. 10am-6.30pm. 14 FREE Handy Barcelona. City Feb - March. guidebooks, 1176-2004 From 8 Nov FREE Pati díArmes. Sales 14 & until April. A selection of period guides to 15 The Condor Legion Mon- Barcelona from the archives. Sun,10am-6.30pm. March-May. CaixaForum Centre de Cultura (Av. Francesc Ferrer & Guàrdia, 6-8). Contemporània de M: Espanya (L1-L3-FGC). T. 93 476 86 00. Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm. Wed, Barcelona 10am-11pm. Sat, Sun, 10am-9pm. FREE Windows on the world 24 (Montalegre, 5). M: Catalunya (L1-L3). Jan until 18 Aug. Short films about T. 93 306 41 00. Tue-Sun & public hols, people surviving in difficult 11am-8pm. Closed Mon. €5. Reduced circumstances, showing the reality of entry for pensioners and students on daily life in developing countries. Wed (excl public holidays): €3.40. Free FREE What to think. What to for under 16s, & unemployed, Thur, desire. What to do. The ìla 8-10pm & Sun 3-8pm. Caixaî Foundationís The Bolaño Archive. 1977-2003 contemporary art collection. 5 March - June 2013. €6. Reduced: €4. Until 18 Sept. This three-part This homage to the Chilean writer exhibition features works from the ‘la Roberto Bolaño, who spent the last part Caixa’ Foundation’s contemporary art of his life in Barcelona, Girona and collection. It explores themes as Blanes, takes the form of a unique varied as historical revision, exhibition that displays new material relationship with nature, or religion, from the Bolaño Estate, inviting visitors as well as social and gender to immerse themselves Bolaño’s creative inequality. universe. FREE Seduced by art. Photography past and present. 22 Feb until 19 May. An innovative CosmoCaixa exhibition created in collaboration (Isaac Newton, 26). M: Av. Tibidabo with the Londonís National Gallery, (FGC). T. 93 212 60 50. Tue-Sun, on the relationship between the great 10am-8pm. €3 (permanent and masters in the history of art, the temporary exhibitions). Reduced entry photography of the mid nineteenth €2. First Sun of month: free. century and the work of The biggest scientific contemporary photographers. instrument ever built 8 to 26 March.

30 Time Out BCN Guide March 2013 Displays and video describe how different experiments have allowed us to Fundació Francisco understand the universe. Godia Technorevolution Until 6 May. Interactive exhibition that allows (Diputació, 250). M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2- visitors to experience the evolution of L3-L4) & Provença (FGC). T. 93 272 31 80. technology, with spaces dedicated to Mon-Sun, 10am-8pm. Closed Tue €7, nanotechnology, biotechnology, IT and Reduced €4. communications. The Museo del Prado and contemporary artists Until 13 May. 50 works by 24 artists from different Espai VolART-Fundació generation: employing a diverse range of Vila Casas techniques, and in very different styles, they are part of an intimate and fruitful (Ausiàs March, 22). M: Urquinaona dialogue with the art of the past collected (L1-L4). T. 93 481 79 85. Tue-Fri, at Madrid’s Museo del Prado 5-8.30pm, Sat, 11am-2pm & 5-8.30pm. Sun, 11am-2pm. €1; Reduced: 50¢. Fundació Joan Miró Martín Carral / Carmen (Parc de Montjuïc, s/n). M: Espanya Anzano From 17 Jan until 26 May. (L1-L3-FGC). T. 93 443 94 70. Tue-Sat, Painter Martin Carral, whose work is 10am-8pm. Thu, 10am-9.30pm, Sun & part of the Foundation’s collection, public holidays 10am-2.30pm. Closed and Carmen Anzano, an invited artist, Mondays. €11. Espai 13, €2.50. exhibit work in dialogue. Two very Insomnia 22 Mar until 16 June. different creative approaches with a Aspects of cinema, considered as an shared aim: to explore the limits of artistic discipline, that have inspired perception. artistic research and exploration. Salvador Alibau. ‘Inventor and poet, master of cellulose’ 17 Jan to 21 Apr. Exhibition of the work of Fundació Suñol Salvador Alibau, one of the most (Passeig de Gràcia, 98). M: Diagonal interesting voices in recent Catalan art. (L3-L5). T. 93 496 10 32. Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm & 4-8pm. Sat 4-8pm.. €6. Reduced: €3. Filmoteca de Catalunya Level Zero Act 25: Luz (Plaça Salvador Seguí, 1). M: Liceu (L3). Broto. “To occupy a grandstand” T. 93 410 75 90. €.4 21 March until 18 May. Projection of Film and the needle: cinema and Luz Broto’s video, which documents an fashion Tues-Sun 4-9pm. €4 action in which local people occupied the (reduced, €2). The relationship between grandstand of the old Barcelona dog cinema and fashion is explored in thirty track, recreating a situation from the films that show how cinema has past. influenced the emergence of new trends, and its role as a showcase for new ways of dressing. Jardí Botànic (Doctor Font & Quer, s/n). M: Espanya (L1-L3-FGC). T. 93 256 41 60. Fundació Antoni Tàpies OctñMarch; daily, 10am-6pm. April (Aragó, 255). M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2- May and Sept: daily, 1am-7pm. L3-L4). T. 93 487 03 15. Tue-Sun, 10am- Jardí Botànic (MCNB - Museu de 7pm. €7. Students and pensioners, Ciències Naturals de Barcelona) €5.60. Permanent collection of plants from Antoni Tàpies. Collection, #4 Mediterranean climate zones all over the Until 17 Feb. A new selection of works world from the collection, which presents a chronological journey through the different phases of Tapiesís career. Macba. Museu d’Art Contra Tàpies From 28 Fen until 2 Contemporani Jun. Structured around works by Gerhard Richter, James Lee Byars, (Plaça dels Àngels, 1). M: Universitat Joseph Beuys and others, this exhibition (L1-L2) & Sant Antoni (L2). T. 93 412 sets out to shed new light on Tàpiesí 08 10. Mon- Fri, 11am-7.30pm. Sat work. 10am-9pm. Sun & public holidays,

March 2013 Time Out BCN Guide 31 10am-3pm. Tues. closed, except public holidays. Whole museum ticket, €9 MUHBA El Call (reduced €7). Single exhibition ticket, €6 (Placeta de Manuel Ribé). M: Liceu (L3) (reduced, €5). & Jaume & (L4) T. 93 256 21 22. Tues- Ahlam Shibli. Phantom home. Fri, 11am–2pm. Sat and Sun, 11am- 25 Jan until 28 April. Major works by 7pm. Public holidays and Mondays Palestinian Bedouin artist Ahlam Shibli, before public holidays, 10am-2pm. with a new photographic series, “Death” Closed Mon. €2. (2011-2012), created for this Salomó ben Adret exhibition (1235-1310). The Triumph Written on the wind. The poet of an Orthodoxy. Drawings by Lawrence Permanent exhbition. Jacint Verdaguer Weiner 8 March until 24 is one of the great Salomó ben Adret, also Jun. A thorough figures in the history known as the Rashba, was retrospective of the work of Catalan literature. a Catalan Jewish leader of North American artist Find out more about and Rabbi at the main Lawrence Weiner, a his life at Vil·la synagogue of Barcelona, significant artist in the second Joana. and served three kings as for half of the twentieth century. Jewish Affairs. Eulàlia Grau. & have never painted golden angels 8 Feb until 26 May. Works from the 70s and MUHBA Fabra & Coats. early 80s by Catalan artist Eulàlia Grau. Espai Joan Bota Gender stereotypes, the exploitation of the working class, and the mechanisms (Sant Adrià, 20). M: Sant Andreu (L1). of repression are some of the subjects Tues-Fri., 5-8pm. Sat & Sun 10am-2pm she addresses. and 4.30-7.30pm Espai Josep Bota. Postwar ingenuity. Barcelona Microcars. MEAM: Museu Europeu 20 Dec until 15 Mar. € 2. d’Art Modern Barcelona’s Microcars 5 Dec - 15 Mar. Microcars of all descriptions from (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume & (L4). T. Claudi Roca’s private collection, one of the 93 319 56 93. Tue-Sun, 10am-8pm. 7 €. largest in Spain. Reduced 5 €.. 21st century contemporary art Almost 200 paintings and 30 MUHBA Museu sculptures featuring works by d’Història de Barcelona figurative, realist or hyperrealist artists from all over the world. (Pl. del Rei). M: Jaume & (L4). T. 93 256 21 22. Tues - Sat, 10 – 7pm. Sun, 10am- 8pm (Sun free after 3pm). Sun and Mon MIBA. Museu d’Idees & before public holidays, 10am-2pm. Invents de Barcelona Closed Mon. €7. Under-16s free. Sunday afternoon, free. (Ciutat, 7). M: Jaume & (L4). T. 93 332 Museu d’Història de la 79 30. Tue-Fri., 10am-2pm & 4-7pm. Ciutat: Permanent exhibition. Sat, 11am-8pm. Sun & public holidays, Beneath the Plaça del Rei, in the 10am-2pm. €7. Gothic quarter, a remarkable Minimiba: The Minimiba archaeological journey allows competition for 5 to 12 year olds. Until 3 visitors to discover the Roman colony Mar. A selection of prototypes of the 30 of Barcino.. of the most brilliant and ingenious Laboratori MUHBA. Collecting inventions suggested by 5 to 12 year old the city. Until 11 Apr. children. Steampunk, the future that never was Tues-Fri, 10am-7pm, Sat, MUHBA Park Güell 10am-8pm, Sun and public holidays, (Olot, s/n. Casa de la Guarda). T. 93 256 10am-2pm. Until 9 April. Inventions, 21 22. From 1 April until 30 Sept: Mon- illustrations models and photographs Sun 10am-8pm. From 1 Oct until 31 that bring to life the retrofuturist March: Mon-Sun, 10am-6pm. €2 fantasy genre known as Steampunk, MUHBA Park Güell which celebrates the technology of the Permanent exhibition. Discover great age of steam. Gaudi’s home in Barcelona.

32 Time Out BCN Guide March 2013 10am-2pm and 5 to 8pm, Sun, 10am- MUHBA Refugi 307 2pm. Objects that were in daily use in (Nou de la Rambla, 169). M: Jaume & Badalona more than 2,000 years ago. The (L1-L4). T. 93 256 21 00. Sat. & Sun., exhbition includes the undergound 10am-2pm, by appointment. Public space beneath the museum, which holidays, closed. €3. houses the remains of the Roman baths MUHBA Refugi 307 Permanent amd the Decumanus Maximus, one of exhibition. In 400 metres of the most significant archaelogical sites underground passageways, visitors can in Catalonia. relive the uncertainty of a city which, FREE Stereoscopic Tues-Sat., during the Civil War, was subject to a 5-8pm. Sun 10am-2pm. 14 Feb-24 Mar. new form of warfare: indiscriminate Stereoscopic photographs of Badalona bombing of the civilian population. from the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th. MUHBA Santa Caterina (Pl. de Joan Capri). T. 93 256 21 22. Museu de l’Eròtica Mon-Sat., 10am-2pm. Sun. & Public (La Rambla, 96). M: Catalunya (L1-L3). holidays, closed T. 93 318 98 65. Mon-Sun, 10am- MUHBA Santa Caterina 10pm. Adults €9. Reduced €8. Permanent collection. Inside Santa Permanent Exhibition. Includes the Caterina Market, this exhibition revisits show “The Hottest Guinness” . Discover the most significant events in the weirdest and most way-out secrets of Barcelonaís history. human sexuality. MUHBA Vil·la Joana. Museu de la Moto de Casa Verdaguer Barcelona (Carretera de líEsglésia, 104. (Carrer de la Palla, 10). T. 933 186 584. Vallvidrera). T. 93 256 21 22. Sat & Tues - Sat, 10am-2pm & 4pm-8pm. Sun Sun, 10am-2pm. Tue-Wed, groups (by 10am-2pm. Closed Mon. €6. Reduced appt) only. Closed Mon. entry: €4. MUHBA Vil·la Joana. Casa The Montjuïc International Verdaguer Permanent exhibition 24 hour race Until 30 June. An The poet Jacint Verdaguer, one of the homage to the popular race that was held key figures in the revival of Catalan as a for 32 years, from 1955 to 1986. literary language, spent the last years of The history of the his life in this 19th century villa. motorbike in Catalonia. The story of motorbikes in the region, told using the most representative 36 models, from Museu Blau the first pioneers to those ridden by (Pl. de Leonardo da Vinci, 4-5, Parc del champions. Fòrum). M: El Maresme/Fòrum (L4). T. 93 256 60 02. Tue-Fri, 10am-7pm. Sat & Sun, 10am-8pm. Closed Mon. 6 €. Museu de la Música Reduced, 2.70 € Museum & Botanical (LíAuditori. Lepant, 150). M: Glòries Gardens, €7. Reduced, €5. (L1) & Marina (L1). T. 93 256 36 50. Entrance hall Animalarium Feb- Mon-Sat., 10am-6pm. Sun, 10am-8pm. Sept. Animal sculptures by Miquel Closed Tues. €4. Reduced €3. Free Aparici, made carefully chosen waste admission Sun afternoon. materials. The sound of light. Mompou & Planeta Vida. Permanent Gaudí 13 Dec - 3 June. An exhibition and exhibition. The history of life and its audiovisual installation illustrate the evolution on our planet. parallels between the music of Frederic Mompou (1893-1987) and the architecture Museu de Badalona of Antoni Gaudí (1852-1926) . (Pl. Assemblea de Catalunya, 1). Badalona. M: Pep Ventura (L2). T. 93 Museu de Montserrat 384 17 50. Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm & (Abadia de Montserrat. 08199 5-8pm Sun & public holidays, 10am- Montserrat). Monistrol de Montserrat. 2pm. €6. T. 93 877 77 45. Mon-Sun, 10am- Baetulo, a Roman City Tue-Sat, 5.30pm. €7. Reduced: €4.

March 2013 Time Out BCN Guide 33 Homage to Jordi Fornas Until 9 Jun. Exhibition featuring the most Museu Frederic Marès emblematic works of the painter Jordi (Plaça de Sant Iu, 5). M: Liceu (L3) & Fornas. Jaume & (L4). T. 93 256 35 00. Tue-Sat, Permanent Exhibition. Paintings 10am-7pm. Sun & public holidays, by El Greco, Caravaggio, Tiepolo, Monet, 11am-8pm. Closed Mon except public Sisley, Degas, Pissarro, Miró, Dalí, holidays. 4.20 €. Picasso, Le Corbusier, Chagall and Irreverent Barcelona. 4 Dec – 26 Braque. May A refl ection on public festivities in Parallel universes. Waltraud 19th century Barcelona. Maczassek 15 Mar until 9 Jun. Waltraud Maczassek draws inspiration from nature to refl ect inner landscapes. Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya Museu del Futbol Club (Parc de Montjuïc). M: Espanya (L1-L3- Barcelona FGC). T. 93 622 03 60. Tue-Sat, 10am- 6pm. Sun & public holidays, 10am-3pm. (Aristides Maillol, s/n. Estadi FCB. €12. Free admission Sat afternoon, Accessos 7 o 9). M: Les Corts (L3). T. 3-6pm Temporary exhibitions: consult 902 18 99 00. From 2 April to 7 Oct: museum website Mon - Sat, 10am ñ 8pm. Sun & public North Africa. Ortiz Echagüe holidays, 10am-2.30pm. 8 Oct – 1 Mar - May. This exhibition shows for April: Mon - Sat., 10am – 6.30pm. the fi rst time the photographs taken by Sun &/ public holidays, 10am – José Ortiz in North Africa between 1909 2.30pm. Tour available and 1916. until one hour before museum closing time. €23. Children €17. Under 6s and FCB members, free. Museu Olímpic & de The Camp Nou l’Esport Joan Antoni Experience. Discover 100 years of the club’s history, visit diff erent zones of the Samaranch Camp Nou and relive the clubís greatest moments in the multimedia zone. (Av. de l’Estadi Olímpic, 60). M: Espanya (L1-L3-FGC). T. 93 292 53 79. Tues - Sat 10am-8pm. Sun & public Museu del Modernisme holidays, 10am - 2.30pm. €5.10. Català Students, €2.60. Under-14s free. Over- 65s free. (Balmes, 48). M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2- 100 years of basketball in L3-L4). T. 93 272 28 96. Mon-Sat., Catalonia From 8 Jan until Mar. A look 10am . 8pm Sun & public holidays, back at the history of basketball in 10am-2pm. €10. Catalonia, from its introduction as a Permanent Exhibition 350 school sport to its current levels of works by 42 of the most important popularity. artists of the Catalan Modernisme movement, located in a one-time textile factory in the heart of Barcelona. Museu Picasso (Montcada, 15-23). M: Jaume & (L4). T. 93 256 30 00. Tue-Sun, 10am-8pm. Museu Egipci Closed Mon (except public holidays). 11 (València, 284). M: Passeig de Gràcia € (combined ticket for museum + (L2-L3-L4). T. 93 488 01 88. Mon-Sun temporary exhibition). Temporary 10am-8pm. Sun, 10am-2pm.From 8 Jan exhibition only: 6 €. to 21 Jun and from de 12 Sept to 30 Nov: Picasso’s ceramics: a gift from closed from 2-4pm. (except Easter week Jacqueline to Barcelona 26 Oct - 1 and public holidays). Adults €11. April. Exhibition featuring 41 original Reduced, €8. ceramic works by Picasso, to celebrate Tutankhamen: The history of the 30th anniversary of their donation to a great discovery Until 31 May. the city by Jacqueline Picasso. Marking the 90th anniversary of the great archaeological fi nd, this exhibition describes the discovery of Tutankhamenís tomb. (Pg. de Gràcia, 107). M: Diagonal (L3-

34 Time Out BCN Guide March 2013 THE FREE TIME OUT BARCELONA APP! TIME OUT IN YOUR MOBILE PHONE BARCELONA IN YOUR POCKET!

ALL THE CITY’S CULTURE AND LEISURE Discover and geolocalize everything that’s happenning in Barcelona: restaurants, DOWNLOAD IT gigs, cinema... FOR FREE IN THE APPLE STORE! L5). T. 93 238 80 91. Mon-Sat, 10am- Burlesque returns to El Molino, with a 7pm. Sun & public holidays, show that celebrates corsets and 10am-2.30pm. garters, scarlet and black, sensuality FREE Sala 1 20 years of Lux 12 Dec- and drag.. 30 April. Selection of winning El Molino “ y photographs from 20 years of the Lux copla” Tues., 7 & 9pm. With drink: Prizes, showcasing the best professional €39. With tapas: €66. photography in Spain. A journey from the best-known FREE Sala 3 Jaume de Laiguana. ‘coplas’ – the popular Spanish song Photographs. Retrospective form - to Flamenco. 1997-2012 From 28 Feb until 26 May. 150 large-format works by Jaume de Laiguna, an art director, producer and Teatre Gaudí Barcelona photographer who has worked in design (Sant Antoni Maria Claret, 120). T. 93 and advertising for 25 years. 603 51 52. www.teatregaudibarcelona. FREE Salas 4 Reading to live. 18 com. M: Sagrada Família (L2-L5) Jan until 18 April. An homage to Joan Ticket offices open one hour before Triadú: teacher, literary critic and performance. Advance: 902 33 22 11 cultural activisit. and www.servicaixa.es. La festa salvatge (The wild party). Andrew Lippa. Dir: Anna Reial Monestir de Santa Valldeneu. Thur & Fri., 8.30pm. Sat., Maria de Pedralbes 6pm & 9.30pm. Sun, 6pm. €24. Until 28 Apr. (Baixada del Monestir, 9). M: Reina In Catalan. Musical show based on Elisenda (FGC). T. 93 256 34 34 . Tues- ‘The Wild Party’, by US playwright Fri, de 10am-5pm. Sun, 10am-7pm. Andrew Lippa. Sun, 10am-8pm (Sun, free after 3pm). Sun and Mon before public holidays, 10am-2pm. Closed Monday. €7. Groups : Gràcia of more than 10: €4. Reduced entry: €5. (Montseny, 47). T. 93 238 76 25. www. Under-16s, senior citizens, ICOM teatrelliure.com. M: Fontana (L3) & members: free admission. Joanic (L4). Ticket offices open Mon-Fri Murals under the magnifying 5-8pm. Weekends an public holidays, glass. Paintings from the Sant from 5pm. Advance: 902 106 369 or Miquel Chapel. Permanenet www.teatrelliure.cat Exhbition. Paintings from the chapel of l’Onada (The Third Wave) Dir: Sant Miquel, a 14th-century Gothic Marc Montserrat Drukker. Wed-Fri masterpiece. 8.30pm. Sat., 5.30pm and 9.30pm. Sun., 6pm. From €19.05 to €23.55. 14 Mar-7 Apr. Virreina Centre de la In Catalan. Ignacio García May and Imatge Marc Montserrat bring to the stage a real experiment conducted by history (La Rambla, 99). M: Liceu (L3). T. 93 teacher Ron Jones to show how Nazism 316 10 00. Tues-Sun and public was able to take root in a democratic holidays, 12-8pm. society. FREE Alberto García-Alix. Self- portrait 5 May. Exhibition on Alberto García-Alix, one of Spainís most Teatre Lliure: Montjuïc influential contemporary (Pg. Santa Madrona, 40-46). T. 93 289 photographers. 27 70 . www.teatrelliure.com. M: Espanya (L1-L3-FGC) & Poble Sec (L3). Ticket offices open: weekdays 9am-8pm (Plaça Margarida Xirgu offices). 3 hours Theatre before performances start (Sala Fabià Puigserver offices). Advance: www. teatrelliure.cat. El Molino Frozen images by Kristian Smeds. (Vilà & Vilà, 99). www.elmolinobcn.com. Dir: Alícia Gorina. Tues-Fri, 9pm. Sat, M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). Advance: www. 9.30 h. Sun, 6.30pm. 14 until 24 Mar. elmolinobcn.com. In Catalan. ìFrozen Imagesî tells the El Molino Burlesque Fever stories of members of a family from the Thu-Sat 9.30pm. €33. north of Finland.

36 Time Out BCN Guide March 2013 Life is a dream by Calderón de la Barca (version by Juan Mayorga) . Dir: Helena Pimenta. Wed-Fri, 8.30pm. Sat, 9pm. Sun, 18 h. From €21.30 to €30.25 €. 7 until 17 Mar. In Spanish. A new version of the great Spanish dramatist Calderón de la Barca’s “Life is dream”, one of the most expressive theatrical works from Spain’s ‘Siglo de Oro’. Teatre Nacional de SIENA MERCAT DE LES FLORS, Catalunya 22-24 MARCH: Possibly the (Pl. de les Arts, 1). T. 93 306 57 00. best dance company in www.tnc.cat. M: Glòries (L1) & Catalonia, La Veronal, presents Monumental (L2). Ticket offices open its lastest production, inspired Wed- Fri, 3-7pm. Sat, 3- 8.30pm. Sun, 3-5pm. Advance: 902 10 12 12 & www. by the Italian city. telentrada.com. The woman who came from the Family show. Madrid-based company future by Marc Rosich. Dir: Marc Aracaladanza attempts to convey Joan Rosich & Guille Milkyway. Sat 6pm. Sun Miró’s creative universe, in which colours 12pm. (Perfomances on 8, 13, 14, 15 & move in space. 21 Mar, at 11am). From €11.20 to Lowland by Roser López Espinosa. €22.41. 8 Mar until 20 Apr. Fri-Sun, 8.30pm. From €10 to €12. 8 to Musical in Catalan. The woman who 10 Mar. Lowland takes us back to the came from the future’ brings together animal nature of bodies and movement. the talents of playwright Marc Rosich Our bodies can fly, but we need and musician Guille Milkyway of La ingenuity and imagination to find our Casa Azul. wings. She creates an imaginary world of birds and men, full of light and vitality. Teatre Poliorama Fragments Les Slovaks Dance (La Rambla, 115). T. 93 317 75 99. Collective Sat, 8.30pm & Sun 6pm. www.teatrepoliorama.com. M: From €18.50 to €22 €. 14 until 17 Mar. Catalunya (L1-L3). Ticket office open: Les Slovaks is a five-piece Tue-Fri from 5pm, Sat., from 4pm until company. Using a visual language performance starts. Advance: 902 33 22 that draws on traditional Slovakian 11 and www.servicaixa.com. dance, Fragments is a spectacle rich I love you, youíre perfect... now in images and sensations, which change. by Joe Di Pietro. Dir: Elisenda reflects the complications and Roca. Wed, Thur, Fri, 9.30pm. Sat, contradictions of life, and lays bare 7.30pm & 10pm. Sun, 6.30pm. From human fragility. €18 to €28 €. Until 28 Apr. Siena La Veronal Sat. 8.30pm & Musical in Catalan. Catalan version of Sun 6pm. From €14 to €16.50. 22 - 24 Joe Di Pietro’s Off-Boradway musical hit Mar and 5 to 7 Apr. about dating, romance and marriage, La Veronal, one of Spain’s most lovers and in-laws. exciting young dance companies, transports us to the Italian city of Siena to stage a series of reflections on the Dance human body. Mercat de les Flors INFORMATION (Lleida, 59). T. 93 426 18 75. www. mercatflors.cat. M: Espanya (L1-L3- AND SALES FGC) & Poble Sec (L3). Ticket office opens one hour before performances. Advance: www.mercatflors.cat. Tourist Information Points and Constellations Aracaladanza Sat www.barcelonaturisme.cat 6pm, Sun 12p & 6pm. €8. 2 until 10 Mar.

March 2013 Time Out BCN Guide 37 world of Latin music. She presents her Day by day latest album, Momentos. Information and sales: Saturday 2 Tourist Information Points and www.barcelonaturisme.cat Spanish song Azabache, 20 years on L’Auditori Sala 1 Pau Casals (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries Friday 1 (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). 7pm. €42-€60. The Copla is a traditional Blues Spanish song form, and at the Seville expo Blues at the Palau Gomis of 1992, a group of young singers wowed MEAM: Museu Europeu d’Art Modern the crowds with a Copla spectacle called (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). 6pm. Azabache that rejuvenated the genre. This €11, reduced €9. Jazz and blues concerts in concert features four young up-and-coming a striking 18th-century palace in the Born stars – Pasión Vega, Pastora Soler, Diana district. Navarro and Manuel Lombo. Flamenco Classical music De Cajón! Festival: Tocaora Harlem Barcelona Duo de Guitarra. Jazz Club (Comtessa de Sobradiel, 8). M: ‘Carmen’ Parròquia de Santa Anna Drassanes (L3) & Jaume I (L4). 9pm. €10. (Santa Anna, 29). 9pm. €21. Spanish Who said flamenco guitar was the guitar concert with music by J. Albéniz, E. exclusive preserve of men? Women have Granados, J. Rodrigo, P. Sarasate and F. broken down barriers as singers and Tàrrega among others. dancers – and now it’s the guitarists’ turn. Among the pioneers is Antonia Jiménez, Bavarian Radio Symphony from Cádiz, who has backed artists such as Orchestra Palau de la Música Catalana Rocío Molina, Olga Pericet and Merche (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Esmeralda. Urquinaona (L1,L4). 7pm. €28-€196. Zubin Mehta conducts the Bavarian Radio Symphony orchestra in a Opera programme of works by Liszt, Bartok Gran Theatre del Liceu. 2012-13 and Tchaikovsky. Season: Street Scene Gran Teatre del Liceu (La Rambla, 51-59). M: Liceu (L3). 8pm. €9-€91. A rare opportunity to Sport see composer Kurt Weill’s ‘American FREE The 55th Bacelona-Sitges opera,’ written in Philadelphia in 1946 and Rally L’Illa Diagonal (Diagonal, 557). M: strongly influenced by Broadway musicals Maria Cristina (L3) & Les Corts (L3). and jazz. Halfway between opera and 10am-5pm. Vintage cars assemble for the musical, it includes recitative, spoken Barcelona-Sitges rally (see Sunday 3). dialogue, arias and songs. Folk traditions Kids FREE Sardanas Plaça de la Catedral Cirque Eoloh! BARTS (Barcelona Arts (Plaça de la Catedral). Sat 2, 9, 16 & 23 on Stage) (Av. Paral·lel, 62). M: Paral·lel Mar 6pm. Traditional Catalan folk dance. (L2,L3). T. 93 324 84 92. Mon-Thu 8.30pm; Fri 7pm, 10pm; Sat 12.30pm, 6pm, 9pm; Sun 12.30pm. €21-€38. Sunday 3 Open air Pop FREE Sant Medir Various venues. M: Millennium Festival: Julieta Alfons X (L4). 9am-1pm. One of the city’s Venegas L’Auditori Sala 1 Pau Casals sweetest festivals. The streets and squares (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), of the districts of Gràcia, Sarrià-Sant Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). 9pm. Gervasi and La Bordeta are filled with €20.50-€41.50. Having sold more than 10 music, horses and horse-drawn carriages, million albums around the world, and won and more sticky sweets than you could eat four Grammys, Mexican songstress Julieta in a lifetime. Processions tour the main Venegas is a well-established figure in the streets, showering the crowds with sweets.

38 Time Out BCN Guide March 2013 Classical music Guided tour Dances from Prince Igor L’Auditori FREE Guided tour of Poble Nou (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), cemetery Cementiri de Poblenou (Av. Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). Icària, s/n). M: Llacuna (L4). 10.30am (in 11.30am. €14. Works by Palau, Pardo, Catalan) & 12.30pm (in Spanish). This is Egea, Van der Roost and Borodin. a guided tour of 19th-century Barcelona, as reflected in the tombs and gravestones of the city’s great and good enjoying eternity Sport in Poble Nou. FREE The 55th Bacelona-Sitges Rally Plaça Sant Jaume (Plaça de Sant Jaume). M: Jaume I (L4). 11am. Vintage Monday 4 cars will leave Plaça Sant Jaume at 11am to tour the streets of Barcelona on their way Classical music to Sitges, where their expected arrival time The Art of the Guitar. is 12.30pm. ‘Flamenco & Classic’ Parròquia de Santa Anna (Santa Anna, 29). 9pm. €21. Classical and flamenco guitarists play Folk traditions works by Granados, Albéniz, Rodrigo and FREE Sardanas Plaça de la Catedral Tàrrega in the cloister of Santa Anna (Plaça de la Catedral). Sat 2, 9, 16 & 23 church. Mar, 6pm. Traditional Catalan folk dance. Gospel Football The Gospel Viu Choir Palau de la League fixture. RCD Espanyol- Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). Valladolid Estadi Cornellà – El Prat M: Urquinaona (L1,L4). 7pm. €20-€25. (Avda. del Baix Llobregat, 100). Cornellà Spirituals and gospel brought to you by the de Llobregat. Time TBC. Gospel Viu Choir.

March 2013 Time Out BCN Guide 39 €20-€30. Copla, the traditional Spanish Tuesday 5 song form, has always been a close cousin of flamenco, and this is especially true in Kids the case of cantaora Joana Jiménez, from Cirque Eoloh! BARTS (Barcelona Arts Seville. on Stage) (Av. Paral·lel, 62). M: Paral·lel (L2,L3). T. 93 324 84 92. Mon-Thu 8.30pm; Fri 7pm, 10pm; Sat 12.30pm, Jazz 6pm, 9pm; Sun 12.30pm. €21-€38. Jazz concerts at Milano Cocktail Bar Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1,L3). Wednesday 6 8.30pm (double session). Cover charge, €8. Live jazz, blues and swing at the Milano Jazz Cocktail Bar in the centre of Barcelona. Jazz concerts at Milano Cocktail Bar Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1,L3). Friday 8 8.30pm (double session). Cover charge, €8. Live jazz, blues and swing at the Milano Blues Cocktail Bar in the centre of Barcelona. Blues at the Palau Gomis MEAM: Museu Europeu d’Art Modern (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). 6pm. Rock €11, reduced €9. Jazz and blues concerts in Millennium Festival: Yo la tengo a striking 18th-century palace in the Born L’Auditori Sala 1 Pau Casals (Lepant, 150). district. M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). 9pm. €21-€36. The trio from Hoboken (New Jersey), one of the most Classical music respected bands in indie rock, promote David Malet, organ Palau de la Música their new album Fade (2013). Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1,L4). 7pm. €6. Works by C. Nielsen, Bach, Frank and Thursday 7 Messiaen.

Classical music The Liceu Orchestra and Fernando Arias & Luis del Valle Beethoven’s Ninth L’Auditori Duo L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). Fri 9pm; 8.30pm. €17. Works by Brahms, Schubert Sat 7pm; Sun 11am. €23-€51. and Chopin. The Liceu Symphonic Orchestra and Choir play Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony. The Andorra National Classical Music Orchestra Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Flamenco Urquinaona (L1,L4). 8pm. €13. Works by De Cajón! Festival: Marina Schönberg and Guinjoan. Heredia BARTS (Barcelona Arts on Stage) (Av. Paral·lel, 62). M: Paral·lel Three works by Beethoven Palau de (L2,L3). 9pm. €15-€36. la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, Young cantaora from Granada with special 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1,L4). 8.30pm. guest MÛnica Naranjo. Together they pay €14-€98. The Munich Chamber Orchestra homage to the thwarted genius of flamenco plays works by Beethoven. star Bambino.

Xavier Coll. Masters of the Flamenco Nights at the Palau Spanish guitar Església de Santa Dalmases Palau Dalmases (Montcada, Maria del Pi (Cardenal Casañas, 16). M: 20). M: Jaume I (L4). Mon-Sat 9.30pm. Liceu (L3) & Jaume I (L4). 9pm. €21. €20. The Spanish guitar in concert. Dancers are accompanied by guitar, voice and Cajón in one of the most beautiful Flamenco palaces of the Ribera district of Barcelona. De Cajón!: Festival Joana Jiménez BARTS (Barcelona Arts on Stage) (Av. Jazz Paral·lel, 62). M: Paral·lel (L2,L3). 9pm. Guitar Festival: Esther Condal &

40 Time Out BCN Guide March 2013 Fanny Rozz BARTS (Barcelona Arts on Stage) (Av. Paral·lel, 62). M: Paral·lel Jazz (L2,L3). 9pm. €8. Singer Esther Condal Chuchito Valdés Trio Luz de Gas plays her new album Home (2012) which (Muntaner, 246). M: Diagonal (L3,L5). draws on the work of artists such as Paul 9pm. €30 (advance: €25). Concert Weller, Tom Waits and The Smiths. Condal peformed by pianist, composer and is accompanied by a de luxe backing band arranger Chuchito Valdés, the son of and the French pianist and singer Fanny Chucho Valdés and grandson of Bebo Rozz. Valdés, making him the representative of the third generation of this great Cuban Saturday 9 jazz dynasty. Open air Theatre Barcelona Urban Forest Jamel Debbouze: All about Jamel Barcelona Bosc Urbà (Plaça del Fòrum, BARTS (Barcelona Arts on Stage) (Av. s/n). M: El Maresme/Fòrum (L4). €8-€19 Paral·lel, 62). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). Sat 9pm. (prices vary depending on age and circuit €41-€64. One day only. chosen). Get some high-adrenaline exercise in an adventure park environment without stepping outside Kids Barcelona. An aerial rope slide, lianas, Ma, me, mi... Mozart! L’Auditori bungee jumping and a log walk 9 metres (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), above the ground are only a few of 30 Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). T. 93 attractions at different difficulty levels, for 247 93 00. 11am & 12.30pm. €9-€11. kids and adults of all ages. Music for the whole family. Six musicians play pieces by Mozart adapted for children and accompanied by dance, colour and Classical music movement. Two years old and up. The Art of the Guitar. ‘Flamenco & Classic’ Parròquia de Santa Anna (Santa Anna, 29). 9pm. €21. Pop Classical and flamenco guitarists play Guitar Festival: Hola a Todo el works by Granados, Albéniz, Rodrigo and Mundo Music Hall (, Tàrrega in the cloister of Santa Anna 2-4). 9pm. €19 (advance: €15). church. Hola a Todo el Mundo is a Madrid-based five-piece that draws equal inspiration Saturday suppers with from Devendra Banhart’s hippie pop and classical music at Palau Gomis Animal Collective’s psychedelic electronics. MEAM: Museu Europeu d’Art Modern Their sound blends violins, banjos, guitars, (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). Sat xylophones, accordions, drums and 6pm. €16, reduced €13 (includes: museum ukuleles. They present their latest album, entrance, concert and supper). Ultraviolet Catastrophe . The Museu Europeu d’Art Modern, housed in a striking 18th-century palace in the Born district, offers classical music Sunday 10 concerts with an early supper included in the price. Open air Barcelona Urban Forest Barcelona Bosc Urbà (Plaça del Fòrum, Folk traditions s/n). M: El Maresme/Fòrum (L4). €8-€19 FREE Sardanas Plaça de la Catedral (prices vary depending on age and circuit (Plaça de la Catedral). Sat 2, 9, 16 & 23 chosen). Mar 6pm. Get some high-adrenaline exercise in an Traditional Catalan folk dance. adventure park environment without stepping outside Barcelona. An aerial rope slide, lianas, bungee jumping and a Flamenco log walk 9 metres above the ground are Great Flamenco Gala Palau de la only a few of 30 attractions at different Música Catalana Petit Palau (Palau de la difficulty levels, for kids and adults of all Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1,L4). 7pm ages. €30-€45. The show that brings the exhilarating rhythms and movements of FREE Castellers (human towers) flamenco to Barcelona. at the Poble-sec calçotada Plaça

March 2013 Time Out BCN Guide 41 del Sortidor (Pl. del Sortidor). M: Poble Sec (L3). 12.30pm. Share in the wonder Monday 11 and amazement (and the many nail- biting moments) of these unique human Classical music towers. RIAS Kammerchor Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: FREE Sant Medir: Castellers Urquinaona (L1,L4). 8.30pm. €22-€34. El (human towers) Plaça de la Virreina RIAS Kammerchor, one of the greatest (Plaça de la Virreina ). M: Fontana (L3) & choral groups in the world, plays J.S. Bach’s Joanic (L4). 12pm. Human towers for Sant six motets. Medir, with the participation of the Castellers de la Vila de Gràcia, the Castellers de Sants and the Castellers de Theatre Sant Cugat. Santiago Segura in Live in Person BARTS (Barcelona Arts on Stage) (Av. Paral·lel, 62). M: Paral·lel (L2,L3). 9pm. Folk traditions €18. Spanish comedian and comic actor FREE Sardanas Plaça de la Catedral Santiago Segura. One day only. (Plaça de la Catedral). Sat 2, 9, 16 & 23 Mar 6pm. Traditional Catalan folk dance. Tuesday 12 Football Classical music League fixture. FC Barcelona- The Art of the Guitar. Deportivo Camp Nou (Aristides Maillol, ‘Flamenco & Classic’ Parròquia de s/n). Time TBC. Santa Anna (Santa Anna, 29). 9pm. €21. Classical and flamenco guitarists play works by Granados, Albéniz, Rodrigo and Gospel Tàrrega in the Santa Anna church cloister. 10th Concert for Chad L’Auditori Sala, 1 Pau Casals (Lepant, 150). M Gubaidulina L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & (L1). 7pm. €15-€40. The Auditori hosts Marina (L1). 8.30pm. €17. Works by Sofia this benefit concert in which Burruezo and Gubaidulina, the Russian-Tatar composer Bohemia Camerata perform medieval known for the profound religiosity of her music with lyrics inspired by mystical music. poets, along with a performance by the Gospel Viu Choir, a high-voltage The Liceu Orchestra and Verdi’s contemporary Gospel show. Requiem L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). Fri 9pm; Sat 7pm; Sun 6pm. €23- Concert €51. The OBC, with the Choir of the Liceu The voice of the world Palau de la and the Chamber Choir of the Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, Música Catalana, perform Giuseppe 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1,L4). T. 93 295 Verdi’s Requiem, to commemorate the 72 00. 12pm. €11. Family concert. Warm bicentenary of the composer’s birth. up your vocal chords: at this concert you’ll help imitate trumpets, trombones, the bass, drums, guitars, while the show Jazz transports you to Africa, Asia, Europe, Jazz nights at the Palau the USA and Central America. For the Dalmases Palau Dalmases (Montcada, whole family. 20). M: Jaume I (L4). Tue, Wed 10pm. €20. Live jazz in a beautiful palace in the Ribera Pop district. Guitar Festival: Patrick Watson Luz de Gas (Muntaner, 246). M: Diagonal (L3,L5). 8pm. €25 (advance: €20). FREE! Montreal-based singer and musician DOWNLOAD Patrick Watson presents his fourth album, Adventures in your backyard, a stunning THE TIME OUT example of the new ‘dream folk’ that has BCN GUIDE delighted critics and prompted comparisons to Bon Iver.

42 Time Out BCN Guide March 2013 programme at the CCCB website: www. Wednesday 13 cccb.org/kosmopolis. Flamenco Cañizares: dos músicas, dos Rumba mundos L’Auditori Sala 2 Oriol De Cajón!: Rosario Flores Palau de Martorell (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), la Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). 8.30pm. 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1,L4). 9pm. €18- €28. Concert by the prestigious flamenco €48. Spanish pop queen and daughter of guitarist and composer who has worked the legendary Lola Flores plays as part of with great names in Spanish music, such as the De Cajón! Festival. Paco de Lucía, Camarón de la Isla, Alejandro Sanz and Enrique Morente. Friday 15 Jazz Blues Jazz concerts at Milano Cocktail Blues at the Palau Gomis Bar Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda MEAM: Museu Europeu d’Art Modern Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1,L3). (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). 8.30pm (double session). Cover charge, 6pm. €11, reduced €9. Jazz and blues €8. Live jazz, blues and swing at the concerts in a striking 18th-century Milano Cocktail Bar in the centre of palace in the Born district. Barcelona. Classical music Pop The OBC & Beethoven’s pastoral Guitar Festival: Paul Gilbert (Mr. symphony L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Big) Razzmatazz Sala 2 (Almogàvers, Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina 122). M: Marina (L1) & Bogatell (L4). 9pm. (L1). Fri 9pm; Sat 7pm; Sun 11am. €23- €30 (advance: €25). Founding member of €51. Works by Beethoven and pop metal supergroup Mr. Big, Paul Gilbert Tchaikovsky. is one of the fastest-playing axe-shredding guitar heroes around, promoting his latest Xavier Coll. Masters of the album Vibrato with a select four-piece Spanish guitar Palau de la Música backing band. Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1,L4). 9pm. €28-€32. The Thursday 14 Spanish guitar in concert. Classical music Flamenco Igor Levit L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Great Flamenco Gala Teatre Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina Poliorama (La Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya (L1). 8.30pm. €17. Piano works by (L1,L3). 7pm. €30-€45. The show that Beethoven and Shostakovich. brings the exhilarating rhythms and movements of flamenco to Barcelona. Mahler Chamber Orchestra & Mitsuko Uchida L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) Literature & Marina (L1). 9pm. €23-€73. The Kosmopolis 2013 Centre de Cultura international touring Mahler Chamber Contemporània de Barcelona (CCCB) Orchestra, accompanying acclaimed (Montalegre, 5). M: Catalunya (L1,L3). Japanese pianist Mitsuko Uchida, play Mar 14-16. The 7th Kosmopolis works by Mozart. Festival, a laboratory-festival in which literature, in all its forms, takes centre stage and which this year pays homage Literature to Roberto Bolaño. See programme at the Kosmopolis 2013 Centre de Cultura CCCB website: www.cccb.org/kosmopolis. Contemporània de Barcelona (CCCB) (Montalegre, 5). M: Catalunya (L1,L3). Mar 14-16. The 7th Kosmopolis Festival, a Pop laboratory-festival in which literature, in Millennium Festival: Els Amics de all its forms, takes centre stage and which les Arts Razzmatazz (Almogàvers, 122). this year pays homage to Chilean novelist M: Marina (L1) & Bogatell (L4). 9pm. €18. and poet Roberto Bolaño. See the complete Els Amics de les Arts, one of the leading

March 2013 Time Out BCN Guide 43 exponents of the new wave of Catalan folk- pop, promote their latest album Espècies Sunday 17 per catalogar. Classical music Guitar Festival: Soledad Vélez Chamber concert: the ‘Musical BARTS (Barcelona Arts on Stage) (Av. Residences’ cycle La Pedrera Paral·lel, 62). M: Paral·lel (L2-L3). 9pm. €8. (Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal (L3,L5) Soledad Vélez is a Chilean singer living in & Provença (FGC). 6pm. €12. Valencia who plays folk-tinted rock. At Anna Alàs, mezzo-soprano, and the BARTS she presents her latest album, Wild Daimonion Ensemble play works by Fishing (2012). Häendel, Vivaldi, Corelli, Stradella and Legrenzi.

Saturday 16 Tapiola Choir & the Orfeó Children’s Choir Palau de la Música Flamenco Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Flamenco Nights at the Palau Urquinaona (L1,L4). 12pm. €7-€11. Dalmases Palau Dalmases (Montcada, The Tapiola Choir, one of the best 20). M: Jaume I (L4). Fri-Sun 9.30pm. €20. children’s choirs in the world, and Flamenco dancers are accompanied by Barcelona’s Orfeó Català Children’s Choir, guitar, voice and cajón in one of the most come together to take the audience on an beautiful palaces of the Ribera district of incredible journey into music. Barcelona. The OBC & Beethoven’s pastoral symphony L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Folk traditions Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina FREE Sardanas Plaça de la Catedral (L1). Fri 9pm; Sat 7pm; Sun 11am. €23- (Plaça de la Catedral). Sat 2, 9, 16 & 23 €51. Mar 6pm. Traditional Catalan folk dance. Works by Beethoven and Tchaikovsky.

Wagner with wind instruments Literature L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Kosmopolis 2013 Centre de Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). 6pm. Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona €14. Works by Wagner and Daughertywill (CCCB) (Montalegre, 5). M: be performed. Catalunya (L1,L3). Mar 14-16. The 7th Kosmopolis Festival, a laboratory-festival in which Sport literature, in all its forms, takes centre FREE Zurich Barcelona Marathon stage and which this year pays 2013 Avinguda de la Reina Maria homage to Chilean novelist and poet Cristina (Av. de la Reina Maria Cristina). Roberto Bolaño. See the full M: Espanya (L1,L3,FGC). 8.30am. programme at the CCCB website: Registration closes 17 Mar. Consult the www.cccb.org/kosmopolis. website for more information: www.zurichmaratobarcelona.es. Metal Hamlet Bikini (Diagonal, 547). M: Maria Football Cristina (L3). 9pm. €12. Madrid-based League fixture. FC Barcelona- Hamlet, one of the pioneers of Spanish- Rayo Vallecano Camp Nou (Aristides language heavy metal, come to Barcelona Maillol, s/n). Time TBC. to present songs from their 10th album, Amnesia (2011). Flamenco Opera and Flamenco Teatre Pop Poliorama (La Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya Millennium Festival: Els Amics (L1,L3). 9.30pm. €30-€45. Innovative de les Arts Razzmatazz concept that brings together the Spanish (Almogàvers, 122). M: Marina (L1) & traditions of opera, zarzuela and flamenco Bogatell (L4). 9pm. €18. Els Amics de in a single show. les Arts, one of the leading exponents of the new wave of Catalan folk-pop, promote their latest album Espécies Jazz per catalogar. Jazz concerts at Milano Cocktail

44 Time Out BCN Guide March 2013 Bar Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda International Music Competition of Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1,L3). Barcelona, Soo Jung Ann plays works 8.30pm (double session). Cover charge, by Bach, Schumann and Rachmaninoff. €8. Live jazz, blues and swing at the Milano Cocktail Bar in the centre of Barcelona. Tuesday 19 Classical music Monday 18 Viktoria Mullova & Paolo Giacometti L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). Classical music M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Gustav Mahler Youth Orchestra / Marina (L1). 8.30pm. €28. Beethoven’s Leif Ove Andsnes, piano Palau de la sonatas for piano and violin. Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1,L4). 8.30pm. €22- €140. Grammy-nominated Norwegian Jazz pianist Leif Ove Andsnes makes his debut Jazz nights at the Palau Dalmases in Barcelona, playing works by Beethoven. Palau Dalmases (Montcada, 20). M: Jaume I (L4). Tue, Wed, 10pm. €20. Live jazz in a Manuel González: Masters of beautiful palace located in Barcelona’s the Spanish guitar Església de Santa Ribera district. Maria del Pi (Cardenal Casañas, 16). M: Liceu (L3) & Jaume I (L4). 9pm. €21. The Spanish guitar in concert. Wednesday 20

Soo Jung Ann L’Auditori (Lepant, Classical music 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) Barcelona 4 Guitars Església de & Marina (L1). 8.30pm. €17. South Santa Maria del Pi (Cardenal Casañas, 16). Korean pianist and the 2012 winner of M: Liceu (L3) & Jaume I (L4). 9pm. €21 . the prestigious Maria Canals The Spanish guitar in concert.

March 2013 Time Out BCN Guide 45 and ‘Hansel & Gretel’ to ‘The Carnival of Singer the Animals’. Franco Battiato L’Auditori Sala 1 Pau Casals (Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina (L1). Blues 9pm. €42-€62. The Sicilian singer Blues at the Palau Gomis presents his latest work Apriti Sesamo MEAM: Museu Europeu d’Art Modern (2012). The composer of ‘Voglio vederti (Barra de Ferro, 5). M: Jaume I (L4). danzare’ is one of the most charismatic 6pm. €11, reduced €9. personalities to show up on the Italian Jazz and blues concerts in a striking music scene in recent decades. He will 18th-century palace in the Born district. also be performing many of his crowd- pleasing greatest hits. Classical music András Schiff, piano Palau de la Thursday 21 Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1,L4). 8.30pm. €16-€67. Classical music The great Hungarian-born British pianist Claret Piano Quartet Palau de la András Schiff presents a fascinating Música Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). monographic recital of Ludwig van M: Urquinaona (L1,L4). 8.30pm. €11. Beethoven’s piano sonatas, including ‘Au Works by Mahler, Guinjoan, Strauss and claire de la lune’. Brahms. Barcelona Duo de Guitarra. ‘Carmen’ Parròquia de Santa Anna Instrumental (Santa Anna, 29). 9pm. €21. The Spanish Ludovico Einaudi Palau de la guitar in concert, with works by I. Música Catalana (Palau de la Albéniz, E. Granados, J. Rodrigo, Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona P. Sarasate and F. Tàrrega, (L1,L4). 9pm. €20-€45. Poble among others. Italian composer and Espanyol plays pianist Ludovico Einaudi host to the TOT Jazz presents his latest work Festival, a celebration as an ensemble piece. of puppets, marionet- Jazz concerts at tes, dance and shadow Milano Cocktail Bar theatre, with shows Milano Cocktail Bar Opera for children and (Ronda Universitat, 35). Madame adults. M: Catalunya (L1,L3). Butterfly Gran Teatre del 8.30pm (double session). Liceu (Rambla,, 51-59) M: Cover charge, €8. Live jazz, Liceu (L3). 8pm. Operatic history blues and swing at the Milano abounds in tragic endings, but few touch Cocktail Bar in the centre of the audience’s heartstrings as Barcelona. poignantly as the death of Cio-Cio-San. Puccini’s music is unequalled in its ability to arouse emotion and make us Saturday 23 not only empathise with but actually feel the characters’ joy and pain as though Open air they were our own. TOT Festival 2013 – Puppet and Object Theatre Festival Poble Espanyol (Av. de Francesc Ferrer & Friday 22 Guàrdia, 13). M: Espanya (L1,L3,FGC). All day. More information: www.poble- Open air espanyol.com. 22-24 Mar. TOT Festival 2013 – Puppet and Shadow theatre, dance and puppetry. Object Theatre Festival Poble The TOT Festival offers performances Espanyol (Av. de Francesc Ferrer & for all ages in the grounds of Barcelona’s Guàrdia, 13). M: Espanya (L1,L3,FGC). emblematic Poble Espanyol. Audiences All day. More information: www.poble- are treated to ‘The Wizard of Oz’, espanyol.com. 22-24 Mar. Shadow ‘Hansel & Gretel’ and‘The Carnival of theatre, dance and puppetry. The TOT the Animals’, among others. Festival offers performances for all ages in the grounds of Barcelona’s emblematic TOT off Poble Espanyol (Av. de Francesc Poble Espanyol. From ’The Wizard of Oz’ Ferrer & Guàrdia, 13). M: Espanya

46 Time Out BCN Guide March 2013 (L1,L3,FGC). All day. 23 & 24 Mar. 20). M: Jaume I (L4). Fri-Sun 9.30pm. €20. Various street theatre companies Dancers are accompanied by guitar, present open-air puppet shows for the voice and cajón in one of the most whole family to enjoy. beautiful palaces of the Ribera district of Barcelona. Classical music 125th anniversary of La Principal Jazz de la Bisbal L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). Jazz concerts at Milano Cocktail M: Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Bar Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda Marina (L1). 6pm. €20. Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1,L3). La Principal de la Bisbal, one of Catalonia’s 8.30pm (double session). Cover charge, great cobla (music often used to €8. accompany the Sardana folk dance) bands, Live jazz, blues and swing at the Milano returns to the Auditori’s main stage with a Cocktail Bar in the centre of Barcelona. varied programme.

Beethoven’s Third and Chopin Kids Palau de la Música Catalana (Palau de la Firebird L’Auditori (Lepant, 150). M: Música, 4-6). M: Urquinaona (L1.L4). Glòries (L1), Monumental (L2) & Marina 7pm. €16-€65. (L1). T. 93 247 93 00. 11am. Kids ages Performances by the Sabadell-based Vallès 1-14 €9 (adults €11). Symphonic Orchestra and renowned, Igor Stravinsky’s Firebird is the centrepiece award-winning Austrian pianist Ingolf of this concert that includes stage settings Wunder. based on this and other musical works. For the whole family. Flamenco Flamenco Nights at the Palau Opera Dalmases Palau Dalmases (Montcada, Madame Butterfly Gran Teatre

March 2013 Time Out BCN Guide 47 del Liceu (Rambla,, 51-59) M: Liceu (L3). (08199 Montserrat). Monistrol de 8pm. Montserrat. 9pm. Operatic history abounds in tragic endings, but few touch the audience’s heartstrings as poignantly as the death Flamenco of Cio-Cio-San. Puccini’s music is Opera and Flamenco Teatre unequalled in its ability to arouse Poliorama (La Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya emotion and make us not only empathise (L1,L3). 9.30pm. €30-45. Innovative with but actually feel the characters’ joy concept that brings together the Spanish and pain as though they were our own. traditions of opera, zarzuela and flamenco in a single show. Sunday 24 Opera Open air Madame Butterfly Gran Teatre FREE Castellers (human towers) del Liceu (Rambla,, 51-59) M: Liceu (L3). 8 Plaça de Santa Madrona (Plaça de Santa pm. Madrona). M: Poble Sec (L3). 12pm. Operatic history abounds in tragic endings, Castellers de la Vila de Gràcia, but few touch the audience’s heartstrings Castellers de Sant Cugat and Castellers as poignantly as the death of Cio-Cio-San. de Poble-sec impress with their human Puccini’s music is unequalled in its ability towers. to arouse emotion and make us not only empathise with but actually feel the FREE Castellers (human towers). characters’ joy and pain as though they Sants (Plaça de Sants). 12pm. were our own. Human towers for Palm Sunday.

Barcelona Urban Forest Barcelona Religious celebrations Bosc Urbà (Plaça del Fòrum, s/n). M: El FREE Palm Sunday at the Sagrada Maresme/Fòrum (L4). €8-€19 (prices FamÌlia BasÌlica de la Sagrada FamÌlia vary depending on age and circuit (Mallorca, 401). M: Sagrada FamÌlia chosen). (L2,L5). 12pm. Get some high-adrenaline exercise in an Tall palm stems, intricately woven palm adventure park environment without leaves and olive branches are taken to be even stepping outside Barcelona’s city blessed in one of the most important limits. An aerial rope slide, lianas, religious celebrations in Catalonia. bungee jumping and a log walk 9 metres above the ground are only a few of 30 attractions at different difficulty levels, Monday 25 for kids and adults of all ages. Classical music TOT Festival 2013 – Puppet and Mozart’s Requiem Palau de la Música Object Theatre Festival Poble Catalana (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: Espanyol (Av. de Francesc Ferrer & Urquinaona (L1,L4). 9pm. €18-€54. Guàrdia, 13). M: Espanya (L1,L3,FGC). Mozart’s Requiem at the Palau de la Música All day. More information: www.poble- Catalana with the Empordà Chamber espanyol.com. 22-24 Mar. Orchestra, accompanied by the Polifònica Shadow theatre, dance and puppetry. of Puig Reig. The TOT Festival offers performances for all ages in the grounds of Barcelona’s emblematic Poble Espanyol. From ‘The Jazz Wizard of Oz’ and ‘Hansel & Gretel’ to Jazz at Sala Jamboree Jamboree (Pl. ‘The Carnival of the Animals’. Reial, 17). M: Liceu (L3). Mon-Sun. See website for full programme and times. TOTal Experience Poble Espanyol (Av. The legendary Jamboree club has a full de Francesc Ferrer & Guàrdia, 13). M: programme of jazz, blues, funk and hip Espanya (L1,L3,FGC). 4pm. 23 & 24 Mar. hop. More info: www.masimas.com/ Four 15-minute shows on different stages in jamboree. Poble Espanyol. Tuesday 26 Classical music The Escolania Boys’ choir of Jazz Montserrat Abadia de Montserrat Jazz nights at the Palau

48 Time Out BCN Guide March 2013 Dalmases Palau Dalmases (Montcada, Rambla, 111). M: Paral·lel (L2,L3). 9pm. 20). M: Jaume I (L4). Tue, Wed, 10pm. €20. €15. Live jazz in a beautiful palace in the Ribera Barcelona-based band Manos de Topo district. present tracks from latest album, Escapar con el anticiclón (2011) . Wednesday 27 Saturday 30 Flamenco Opera and Flamenco Teatre Flamenco Poliorama (La Rambla, 115). M: Catalunya Flamenco Nights at the Palau (L1,L3). 9.30pm. €30-€45. Innovative Dalmases Palau Dalmases (Montcada, concept that brings together the Spanish 20). M: Jaume I (L4). Fri-Sun 9.30pm. traditions of opera, zarzuela and flamenco €20. in a single show. Dancers are accompanied by guitar, voice and cajón in one of the most beautiful palaces of the Ribera district Guitar of Barcelona. The best guitar collection in the world Museu de la Música (L’Auditori. Lepant, 150). M: Glòries (L1) & Marina Sunday 31 (L1). Wed, Sat., 4pm (visit) & 4.30pm (concert). From 27 Mar. Classical music Visit the museum’s guitar collection and Pedro J. González: Masters of hear a historic guitar in concert. the Spanish guitar Església de Santa Maria del Pi (Cardenal Casañas, 16). M: Liceu (L3) & Jaume I (L4). 9.15pm. €21. Opera The Spanish guitar in concert, by the guitar Madame Butterfly Gran Teatre master Pedro J. González. del Liceu (Rambla,, 51-59) M: Liceu (L3). 8 pm. Operatic history abounds in tragic endings, Sport but few touch the audience’s heartstrings Formula One Test Days Circuit de as poignantly as the death of Cio-Cio-San. Catalunya (Crta.de Granollers a Parets Km Puccini’s music is unequalled in its ability 2). Montmeló. 28 Feb - 3 Mar. More info: to arouse emotion and make us feel the www.circuitcat.com. characters’ joy and pain as though they were our own. Folk Traditions FREE Sardanas Plaça de la Catedral Thursday 28 (Plaça de la Catedral). Sat 2, 9, 16 & 23 Mar 6pm. Traditional Catalan folk dance in Jazz the Cathedral Square. Jazz concerts at Milano Cocktail Bar Milano Cocktail Bar (Ronda Universitat, 35). M: Catalunya (L1,L3). Football 8.30pm (double session). Cover charge, League fixture. RCD Espanyol- €8. Reial Societat Estadi Cornellà - El Prat Live jazz, blues and swing at the Milano (Avda. del Baix Llobregat, 100). Cornellà Cocktail Bar in the centre of Barcelona. de Llobregat. Time TBC. RCD Espanyol will face up to the Real Sociedad team in this match of league in the stadium of Friday 29 Cornella - El Prat. Sport Formula One Test Days Circuit de Catalunya (Granollers - Parets road, Km 2). INFORMATION Montmeló. 28 Feb - 3 Mar. More info at: www.circuitcat.com. AND SALES

Pop Tourist Information Points and Millennium Festival: Manos de www.barcelonaturisme.cat Topo La [2] de l’Apolo Sala II (Nou de la

March 2013 Time Out BCN Guide 49 Sights

Imax Architecture (Moll d’Espanya). M: Drassanes (L3) Basílica de la Sagrada Família & Barceloneta (L4). 93 225 11 11. (Mallorca, 401). M: Sagrada Família Check times and programme at www. (L2-L5). 93 20 804 14 9am-6pm. imaxportvell.com. 9.75 €. Put on your 13,50 €. Barcelona’s most iconic glasses, and take a seat for the most building, begun by Antoni Gaudí in exciting virtual reality experience that 1891 and which remains unfinished to the latest 3-D technology can provide, this day. Ticket sales help fund the in Barcelona’s best-equipped large- ongoing construction works. The most format cinema. visited tourist attraction in Spain. G Experiència Casa Batlló (Larrard, 41). M: Lesseps (L3). 93 285 (Pg. de Gràcia, 43). M: Passeig de 44 40. 10am-6pm. 9 €. Reduced: 7.5 €. Gràcia (L3-L4). 93 216 03 06. 9am- Only 150 yards from the steps of Park 9pm. 20.35 €. Another of Gaudì’s Güell, you’ll find a doorway that takes most emblematic works. Spaces you inside the mind of Antoni Gaudí. include the former residence of the A fascinating interactive exhibition Batlló family, the roof terrace with its designed to help you understand the decorated chimneys, (and the scaly creative genius of Barcelona’s most spine of the dragon defeated by Saint famous architect. George,) and the marine-themed light well. The tour ends with the stunning Tibidabo Funfair entrance hall and main staircase. (Plaça del Tibidabo, 3-4). T. 93 211 79 42. Wed-Sun, 12am-11pm. 28,50 € La Pedrera (Those under 120cm, 10,5 €). With (Provença, 261-265). M: Diagonal over a hundred years of history, (L3-L5). 902 400 973. 9am-8pm. Tibidabo is one of the oldest funfairs in 16.50 €. Reduced entrance, 14.85 the world, featuring classic rides, old €. The building many Barcelona favourites and brand new attractions to residents consider to be Gaudí’s guarantee an exciting day out. masterpiece – the roof terrace is one of the joys of Modernisme. Some of Palau de la Música Catalana its apartments are still private (Palau de la Música, 4-6). M: homes. Urquinaona (L1-L4). T. 902 475 485. 10 am-3.30pm. Guide tours every 30 Palau Güell minutes. 17 €. More information: www. (Nou de la Rambla, 3-5). M: Drassanes palaumusica.cat Built between the (L3) & Barceloneta (L4). 93 472 57 75. years 1905 and 1908 by architect Lluís Tue-Thur, 10am-5.30pm. 12 €. Domènech i Montaner, the Palau de la Reduced: 8 € Built by Gaudí in the late Música Catalana –which is part of 19th century, this mansion belonged to UNESCO’s cultural heritage of his main patron. The roof terrace is humanity– is one of the most unique the highlight, but the whole house is a concert halls in the world, and also one fascinating introduction to Gaudí’s of the most outstanding monuments of revolutionary use of materials and space. Catalan Modernism.

Zoo de Barcelona Leisure (, s/n). M: Arc de Aire de Barcelona, Arab Baths Triomf (L1) i Ciutadella/Vila Olímpica (Pg. de Picasso, 22). M: Barceloneta (L4). T. 93 225 67 80. Mon-Sun, 10am- (L4) & Jaume I (L4). Mon-Thur: first 5pm. 19,60 €. Kids (3-12 years): 11,80 session: 10am. Fri, Sat & Sun: first €. Located in Parc de la Ciutadella, this is session, 8am. Wed, Thu, Fri. & Sat: a centenary institution which is part of last session, midnight-2am.Aire de the city’s cultural and sentimenal Barcelona is in the Born, and recreates heritage. Nowadays it takes care of 2000 a traditional hammam. animals from 315 different species.

50 Time Out BCN Guide March 2013