WWDAccessories THE STATE OF THE STATEMENT NECKLACE AND MORE. SECTION II MILAN COLLECTIONS IT WAS A BELLISSIMO WEEKEND ON THE RUNWAYS. PAGES 4 TO 11

BACKING THE FUTURE LVMH Said Investing In Marco de Vincenzo

By MILES SOCHA

MILAN — Marco de Vincenzo is fashion’s latest young gun to attract investment from a big luxury group. LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton is to reveal WWD today that it has struck a joint venture with the Rome-based designer to develop his fledgling ready- to-wear brand. MONDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2014 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY De Vincenzo showed his fall collection here Sunday (see review on page 8). According to sources, the agreement gives LVMH a “significant” minority holding in de Vincenzo’s com- pany, with options to tighten the partnership and in- crease its stake down the road. Delphine Arnault — the daughter of LVMH chair- Twisted man and chief executive officer Bernard Arnault and second in command at Louis Vuitton — was said to be instrumental in the de Vincenzo deal. She has emerged as a crucial talent scout for the group as the competition to acquire hot young designers — Beauty and engage and assist them via philanthropic en- deavors — intensifies. Later this week in Paris, Arnault is to welcome the 30 semifinalists competing for the inaugural Architectural meets tribal LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prize, her latest meets athletic. Consuelo high-profile initiative. De Vincenzo becomes the fourth designer in Castiglioni merged the the last two years to attract money from LVMH’s notions into one beautifully rich coffers, joining Paris-based Maxime Simoens and London designers J.W. Anderson and Nicholas eccentric collection for Kirkwood on its roster of fashion names, which in- Marni. Complicated and cludes Fendi, Givenchy, Céline, Kenzo and Loewe, for audacious? Of course. which Anderson was appointed creative director. Rival French group Kering has also bagged some Over-the-top chic? Absolutely. buzzy names, last year taking a 51 percent stake in Here, her pileup of furs, London-based Christopher Kane and making a mi- feathers, felts and shine. For nority investment in Altuzarra, the New York-based house of designer Joseph Altuzarra. more from Milan, see pages After launching his collection during Milan Fashion 4 to 11. Week in September 2009, the 34-year-old de Vincenzo won Vogue Italia’s “Who Is on Next?” competition. SEE PAGE 13

FALL 2014 Chinese Fashion Firm MILAN Buys Krizia Brand COLLECTIONS By LUISA ZARGANI

MILAN — Krizia, one of Italy’s first ready-to-wear brands that helped build the country’s global fashion identity, is changing hands. And founder Mariuccia Mandelli is passing the baton after six decades in business. Leading Chinese fashion retailer Shenzhen Marisfrolg Fashion Co. Ltd., has taken control of Krizia SpA, WWD has learned. Financial details of the transaction, which is expected to be finalized and operative in late spring, were not disclosed. Shenzhen Marisfrolg Fashion is owned by entre- preneur Zhu Chongyun, who will become chairman and creative director of Krizia. Her first collection for the label will make its debut in February 2015 in Milan. Marisfrolg is based in Shenzhen but Krizia will continue to be based in Milan. At its peak in the Nineties, Mandelli and her hus- band, company chairman Aldo Pinto, had developed Krizia into a $500 million business, leveraging a string of licenses and a global network of stores. The one-time power couple, both in their 80s, have been battling health issues for years. Without a sec- ond generation to helm the brand, Krizia’s volume is now believed to be miniscule and its assets include the Milan store and the brand’s stately palazzo where the shows are held. Zhu is expected to revamp the brand and, over the next five years, to open Krizia flagships in Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Shenzhen and Chengdu, and PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI SEE PAGE 13 2 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2014 WWD.COM Pinault: Slow Road for Kering’s Reinvention “We project 6 percent organic growth by 2015, 7 THE BRIEFING BOX By PAULINA SZMYDKE percent by 2016,” specified Norris. Meanwhile, Saint Laurent’s revenues surged IN TODAY’S WWD PARIS — When Kering, then PPR, started shedding 17.8 percent last year, giving Kering’s luxury divi- its retail holdings in 2006 to become a luxury-to- sion a healthy boost. “It’s a stellar number and defi- lifestyle conglomerate, it probably didn’t expect it nitely higher than we expected,” enthused Norris. to be this slow and this painful. “The transition of the artistic direction to Hedi Milan Fashion Week Still, François-Henri Pinault, Kering’s chairman Slimane was a huge success,” according to Pinault. street style. For more, and chief executive officer, considers the group “in “Men’s and women’s ready-to-wear were particularly see WWD.com. an excellent position” for future growth, following well received, up 53 percent,” said the executive, while a year of “deep-seeded transformation.” leather goods and shoes accounted for the lion’s share “It’s been a hard path, but we have established of revenues, 66 percent, driven by the brand’s new a robust foundation to go ahead with our strategy,” styles such as the Sac du Jour handbag and Paris shoes. Pinault told a press conference on Friday following Kering said the new ysl.com Web site, rede- the publication of the group’s 2013 results, which signed at the end of 2012 and now serving 60 coun- showed a 95.2 percent drop in net profit, heavily tries, fueled the brand’s e-commerce, while brick- impacted by Kering’s ongoing reconstruction ef- and-mortar business, which comprises a retail forts. In 2013, recurring operating income fell 2.3 network of 115 directly operated boutiques, was percent to 1.75 billion euros, or $2.32 billion. well balanced in geographic terms. The company, whose stable of brands includes Revenues at Bottega Veneta rose 7.5 percent last Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Christopher Kane and Puma, year to surpass the billion-euro threshold. They to- is simultaneously developing on different fronts, and taled 1.02 billion euros, or $1.35 billion, led by “a solid progression” in leather goods, up 15 percent, as

Pinault showed no signs of losing patience with any DABROWSKI KUBA PHOTO BY of them, most notably the group’s lagging cash cow well as an “outstanding performance” of men’s wear, Gucci, and Puma, the underper- now accounting for more than 30 forming core of its nascent sport/ percent of sales. François-Henri LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton is to reveal today that lifestyle business division. As reported, Puma’s net loss it has struck a joint venture with Marco de Vincenzo to develop At Gucci, which accounts for Pinault widened to 115.2 million euros, his fledgling ready-to-wear brand. PAGE 1 more than half the group’s total or $156.8 million, in the three business, sales slipped 5.5 percent months ended Dec. 31, with the in the fourth quarter, with a slim brand citing mostly a lack of a Krizia, one of Italy’s first ready-to-wear brands that helped build the country’s global fashion identity, has been sold to Chinese 0.2 percent improvement at com- clear message and problems with PAGE 1 parable exchange rates. distribution as negative factors. fashion retailer Shenzhen Marisfrolg Fashion Co. Ltd. The Italian brand has taken a Pinault was upbeat about the hit during its ongoing luxury up- sporting and lifestyle category, François-Henri Pinault, Kering’s chairman and chief grade, the objective being to shift saying “2014 will see an ambi- executive officer, considers the group “in an excellent the focus to products with high- tious relaunch of Puma. We are position” for future growth. PAGE 2 er average value. According to very content with the new pro- chief financial officer Jean-Marc gram.” He cautioned not to ex- Felipe Oliveira Baptista is suspending his ready-to-wear Duplaix, smaller tourist flows to pect any fast results, given that line for an undetermined period of time. PAGE 2 Europe in the fourth quarter also Puma’s new image campaign is

dented Gucci’s fortunes. DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE PHOTO BY to be launched in August and Indian designer Rahul Mishra was named winner of the Fielding questions about the a new package of products for 2014 International Woolmark Prize. PAGE 12 brand’s slow road back to the top, Pinault said, “In spring 2015 is still down the road. the U.S., in Japan and in Europe, this strategy has Kering warned in November that the group’s net Claire’s, which targets three- to 18-year-olds, is launching already been implemented with success, which profits would be sharply down due to one-off charg- the Katy Perry Prism collection of jewelry and accessories shows that tangible benefits to the sales trend are es at Puma and nonrecurring impacts from discon- globally in more than 3,000 stores. PAGE 12 feasible.” tinued operations. Exiting its last remaining retail He added that even in China, where luxury businesses, the group suffered a net loss of 256 mil- The Cut, growth has slowed in general, it was “progressing lion euros, or $339 million, related to the disposal of a new, recurring six-page fashion spread, is part a lot.…We are working city by city to enhance our shares in its books, music and electronics chain Fnac, of New York magazine’s inaugural biweekly issue, which hits newsstands today. PAGE 12 network of distribution there.” and a net expense of 562 million euros, or $746 mil- According to Jean-François Palus, Kering’s group lion, related to the catalogue retailer Redcats. managing director, Gucci would open seven stores in Kering is continuing the process for its planned sales This fashion season, Paris has a lot to offer — from art China, close seven and refurbish seven more. “When of catalogue retailer La Redoute and Relais Colis. exhibitions to shops to spas. PAGE 14 we talk about luxury brands, you deal with a very Between 2005 and 2013, the group’s recurring sensitive metabolism, everything is gradual,” he cau- operating income shifted from 66 percent retail Hilary Swank swooped into the Salvatore Ferragamo tioned. “The fiscal year doesn’t mean anything, be- distribution and 34 percent luxury to 89 percent show moments before it was due to start. PAGE 15 cause things happen every day and last a very long luxury and 11 percent sports and lifestyle. time. What we are building now is meant to last the All dollar rates are calculated at average exchange Bulgari presented its latest accessories collection in Milan next 20 years. You won’t feel the difference on a year- rates for the period concerned. with a party at the Bulgari Hotel on Thursday. PAGE 15 ly or quarterly basis.” In the fourth quarter, sales edged down 0.6 per- Though some analysts viewed Gucci’s fourth- cent to 2.55 billion euros, or $3.47 billion, from 2.56 Milla Jovovich caused quite a commotion at the Marella quarter and 2013 performance as disappointing, billion euros, or $3.32 billion, a year ago. At compa- boutique in Milan on Saturday night. PAGE 15 others saw the concerns as overblown. rable scope and exchange rates, this represented a “The brand has been upscaled successfully in rise of four percent. ON WWD.COM Japan, where the no-logo handbag product reached Pinault sidestepped questions regarding the con- about 70 percent in 2013. This gives us confidence glomerate’s declared aim to triple its size by 2020, THEY ARE WEARING: WWD went off the runways and onto regarding China. Our analysis suggests a reaccel- saying only that the group expected “growth in our the streets and sidewalks for the best looks from Milan eration to 4.5 percent organic growth is achievable revenue and recurring operating income in 2014.” Fashion Week. For more, see WWD.com. for Gucci in 2014,” said Helen Norris, luxury goods “We understand, tripling in size before the end analyst at Barclays. of the decade has always been more of a vision than Duplaix said Kering expects “single-digit a target. Viewing how weak Puma is, it will be dif- growth” for Gucci in 2014. ficult to achieve,” Norris noted. FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA However, analysts, including Barclays, do not Shares in Kering closed down 2.3 percent at 151.45 @ WWD.com/social think Gucci could attain double-digit growth again. euros, or $207.83, on the Paris Bourse on Friday. TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Felipe Oliveira Baptista Halts Collection VOLUME 207, NO. 38. MONDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance His show, which had been scheduled for Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: By S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, JENNIFER WEIL Wednesday at 2 p.m., had been canceled, as report- Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, ed on WWD.com. and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West PARIS — Felipe Oliveira Baptista is suspending his Baptista showed on the Paris couture calendar Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 6356, ready-to-wear line for an undetermined period of between 2005 and 2009, and on its rtw calendar Harlan, IA 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTION, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593, call 866-401-7801, or email customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfillment. time, the label said. from 2009 to 2013. Meanwhile, the designer also col- com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service “Séverine and I decided to take time off to think laborated with other labels. address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within about the future of our collaboration and brand and In 2010, Baptista was appointed creative direc- one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever reevaluate its structure and existence,” Baptista tor of Lacoste. dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production said, referring to Séverine Oliveira Baptista, with Baptista is the latest French designer to sus- correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please whom he created the brand in 2003 after winning pend his label, indicating the pitfalls for small, call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other the Festival d’Hyères’ grand prix in 2002. independent designers. Anne Valérie Hash said Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. Occasionally we make our Baptista continued: “We will most likely ven- earlier this month that she would skip the fall subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest ture into another design or creative field. We would season and not show during Paris Fashion Week. our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593 or call 866-401-7801. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR like to thank everyone who has supported and has Her decision followed that of Martine Sitbon, who DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED worked with us over these extremely rich and fan- said last September that she would take a sabbat- TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. 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Marni: After two seasons of tempering the artist within Marni Bottega Veneta so as to highlight her more commercial proclivities (which proved considerable) at Marni, for fall Consuelo Castiglioni unleashed a fashion extravaganza as audacious and over-the-top as it was beautiful. “Amplification, exaggeration, gentle distortion,” she wrote in her program notes. That translated into an eccentric amalgamation: architectural meets tribal meets athletic, while nodding toward Japan and making chic mockery of a few Eighties tropes along the way. Complicated? Indeed, and deftly executed as Castiglioni worked a potentially volatile cocktail of demonstrative silhouette, unfussy fabric and artisanal craft that pushed the limits of sartorial sanity. It looked great. An underlying sturdiness unified the collection’s many ideas. One moment Castiglioni encased the body in big Neoprene tiers and the next, a send-up of the tailored lady suit in hot pink with the focus on her new shoulder — the seam dropped severely to mid-upper arm for a modernist riff on a lantern sleeve. Lean parkas got enormous fur hoods unzipped to cover the entire back; abstract prints by artist Magnus Plessen emboldened otherwise gentle silk dresses, and abundant furs flaunted thick, notice-me vertical stripes. Throughout, Castiglioni seemed to be testing ways to define the waist: a dense ruffle dropping down from under the arc of a cropped sweater; an external bustier in army green with cartoon white piping over a chunky sweater; some good old-fashioned stretchy cinch belts. She closed with pastiches of, among other textures, furs, feathers and felts that looked wonderfully preposterous yet utterly controlled. This was a powerful show — a sheer pleasure to look at (unless you’re a strict minimalist who can’t handle an extra button) and one that made you think. What is the role of the modern runway? Fall 2014 Are such demonstrative clothes show-only? And, despite instant access and mainstream Milan obsession with all things fashion, is there still a thriving niche called insider fashion? Provocative stuff. Bottega Veneta: Another savvy Collections Bottega Veneta collection from Tomas Maier, who in recent seasons has seemed far more EXTRAVAGANCE, ARTFULNESS, SOPHISTICATION. interested in addressing the THE WEEKEND SHOWS HAD ALL THAT AND MORE. wardrobe needs of his tony clientele than in delivering runway flourish. That said, Maier does have an artistic sensibility which invariably informs his work, as it did here. His focus was on dresses display started out interesting Versace: A Versace collection one of the most razor-sharp in Versace switched to tailored cut lean through the torso but grew heavy-handed with plain? While that word fashion, easy to identify and to mode, she kept the proportion before releasing into skirts repetition, particularly with overstates the house’s lampoon, and perhaps for those ultrasleek. Military touches with movement. “We are always blocks of leather inserted into newfound understatement, the reasons, difficult to evolve. The — big, gold buttons and chain- thinking about what clothes the mix. Not so Maier’s pullover collection Donatella Versace Versace glamour girl is one of fringed epaulets — provided should do for a woman and her sweater-and-skirt combos showed on Friday night made the great archetypes of fashion, some flourish, while the personal experience of them,” — charmers all — and his a marked departure from her a paragon of high-polish, high- footwear delivered the most the designer said in his program lovely twisted tulle and plissé usual razzle-dazzle. “I focused voltage, high-energy sex appeal. intense decoration: boots notes. Hence the deliberate ease dresses. These showed Maier’s on proportion and cut rather Yet here she was in long- flaunting intricate cutwork and delivered via graceful lines and mastery of gentleness, a genre than embellishment,” Versace sleeved bias-cut dresses, some elaborate chain-design insets. fluid wool crepes and jerseys. with which he has at times said during a preview. Indeed crafted from two different Versace gave in to some of Yet Maier dresses a woman seemed uncomfortable. As for she did, and there were plenty fabrics for contrasts of texture her innate flamboyance with who radiates strength. He thus the outerwear, in this major of lovely clothes. Still, the (silk cady and satin) or color intarsia furs and a few jeweled tempered the softness with coat season, a pair of shirred overall mood was, by Versace (red and blue). Make no cocktail dresses but came abstract surface geometry belted beauties in camel and standards, a little unsettling. mistake, it was still plenty back full circle for evening — crafted from fabric splices in purple worked the sleek side In a sense, her resolve was sexy. Some of the dresses had gowns with nary a crystal in two or three colors. This graphic of shearling. bold. The Versace aesthetic is strategic slashes, and when sight. Overall her move toward WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2014 5 WWD.COM

Versace Antonio Marras Salvatore Ferragamo

FOR MORE REVIEWS AND IMAGES, SEE WWD.COM/ runway. PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI AND DAVIDE MAESTRI GIANNONI AND DAVIDE GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY restraint was admirable if as- Schwarzenbach’s androgynous to mannish tailoring, and Ferragamo, creative director riding boots. Variations on yet unresolved. style and travels throughout curtains of pleats mingled Massimiliano Giornetti the cape recurred throughout Asia came through in Marras’ with pinstripes and Lurex on effectively captured the values as did sleeveless coats in Antonio Marras: Who knew the big inimitable compositions languid, layered dresses. and images associated with combinations of furs. bad wolf could inspire such a involving men’s wear and Wolves figured literally — the house. A nimble mix of No pants — skirts and beautiful collection? military fabrics, both of which howling animals printed on classic luxury — defined by dresses only — underscored Antonio Marras orchestrated he spliced with exotic prints and satin coats and dresses — and Ferragamo’s mastery in Italian the sophisticated mood, as one of the most transporting and delicate crystal embellishments. subliminally, as in the vaguely leather and subtle equestrian did the murky palette of romantic spectacles of the week, The coats were especially Forties hairstyles, victory rolls flare — and tasteful modern black and brown shot with stitching together references gorgeous. Mostly egg-shaped, that resembled canine ears. edge, the lineup felt especially bronze, green, orange and that included the villains of they were fronted with panels For the finale and requisite on point. deep purple. Those rich “Little Red Riding Hood” and of shaggy lamb, lace appliqués Instragram op, models mounted Giornetti introduced a suave colors kept Giornetti’s special “The Three Little Pigs” — and upholstery brocades a scaffold and gathered around bourgeois attitude from the effects, such as pleats traced plus Swiss writer Annemarie embedded via needle punching a silvery moon. start, opening with a brushed with metallic treatments, Schwarzenbach — into a in decorative contrast to plain plaid blanket cape with leather brushstroke patterns and compelling narrative that fed his tweeds in back. Elsewhere, Salvatore Ferragamo: With his trim and a stand-up collar over leopard spots, well within the artfully patchworked clothes. embroidered tulle sidled up fall collection for Salvatore a gray skirt and slick, high-heel orbit of elegance. 6 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2014

FALL 2014 Missoni Etro Tod’s MILAN COLLECTIONS

Missoni: “A very feminine girl in mimicking the pattern. But cited several inspirations, from veered to decadent — some lacquered leather jackets men’s oversize outerwear” is when done in dark and drab pieces of Nureyev’s personal delightfully so, others with a topped with long mink scarves. how Angela Missoni, backstage hues, they lacked a certain wardrobe acquired by her father, cumbersome feel. Breaking up a lineup of solid preshow, described fall. exuberance. The chevrons Gimmo Etro, at auction and There were several colors (burgundy, lavender, Indeed, some of the silhouettes would look better in a light, housed in the company archives, beautiful, pared-down numbers deep blue) were geometric reflected such a vibe, but that shimmery yarn. to “this woman traveling on the with mere smidgens of folklore, patterns, lozenge shapes and wasn’t the collection’s main Missoni’s outerwear was Trans-Siberian, to Samarkand including a green herringbone macro-checks on pieces done takeaway. Rather, it was the strong, with coats, cabans and on the Silk Road,” she said. coat with stitched detailing in leather, wool, silk and innovative ways in which the parkas that demonstrated “It’s a melting pot of cultures worn with a simple white top mink. The bouffant shape of designer worked her textures, confidence and ease. The from Russia to Uzbekistan and slouchy green pants. These skirts with uneven hems was mostly via pieces that read furs and fur details on knit and Tajikistan.” looked casual, cozy and well- accentuated with pleats. woven but were actually knits. numbers — as in the gray There was indeed an suited for a long, chic journey. Facchinetti made good use Cases in point: tailored wool-and-mohair one with an artisanal element to the lineup of Tod’s expertise in handbags coats rendered in an intarsia orange astrakhan collar and referencing exotic locales Tod’s: Tod’s second runway and footwear, showing bowling loop stitch and a chic pencil yellow cuffs and pocket flaps such as those. It came mostly show was again held in the bags with double pockets, skirt in a tweed knit. Missoni — exuded a particular chic. via the deep, dark browns and sophisticated Italian setting padding and retro zips; a played on this idea throughout, The final exit was a brown shimmering golds, the piles of of Milan’s contemporary art shopping bag with saddle lines, reinventing the house’s core astrakhan jacket sliced with fabrics that she layered and museum PAC. It was an arty foil and ballerina shoes lit up by category in interesting new electric blue lines, worn with draped, and the rich, exquisite for creative director Alessandra metallic tongues reminiscent of ways. She also offered novel tweed cargo pants. It was embroidery. Facchinetti’s luxurious bedroom slippers. interpretations of Missoni’s sporty and boyish, and, on Joan Several coats and jackets, interpretations of leather — the signature zigzag: in brown and Smalls, still coolly feminine. reminiscent of robes typical to house’s core business. Jil Sander: It’s been a rough orange, for example, amplified Bukhara, featured elaborate Models zigzagged through road for Jil Sander, a series on a mohair-and-wool coat Etro: A luxurious boho vibe stitching. Other looks were works by Lucio Fontana, of truncated designer reigns, and on a wrap skirt, the latter always works its way into Etro. It busier, such as a vest in a mix of Giovanni Boldini and Giò Ponti false starts and abrupt stops. shown with a rusty brown tank adds to the house’s charm and for patterns shown with a printed wearing constructed garments What’s a beleaguered design top and burnt-orange sleeveless fall, Veronica Etro displayed the blouse and languid metallic that looked comfortable yet team to do? According to the padded cardigan, its stitching sentiment with confidence. She skirt. The colors and textures luxurious. Examples: the roomy show notes, its mandate was WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2014 7 WWD.COM

Jil Sander Emporio Armani Emilio Pucci

FOR MORE REVIEWS AND IMAGES, SEE WWD.COM/ runway. PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI AND DAVIDE MAESTRI GIANNONI AND DAVIDE GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY

“addressing and restating the a place for it in today’s diverse elaborated that Luc Besson’s Evening was where the Approaching the collection fundamental codes of the Jil landscape? Of course, but it “Nikita” was an inspiration, dazzle came in, quite literally. from this angle is a natural Sander label, reinforcing the needs constant reevaluation particularly the “strong Sticking mostly to velvet as fit for the Pucci ethos, and emblems of the house.” To that rather than “restating,” and attitude, but with clothes that a base, he adorned several was well done. Rich fabrics extent, the surely beleaguered must come from a place of everyone can wear,” he said. youthful cocktail dresses with used for those nice Navajo team, along with stylist Katy conviction and confidence — Armani achieved that mix glittery embellishment, and knits, along with velvet suits, England, performed gamely. hard to achieve by committee. with a strong lineup that largely then it was pearls galore. thick shearling moto jackets Coats and jackets in gorgeous, If there is to be another hire, kept eccentric proclivities While cropped, wide-leg pants and extreme furs, grounded chalky cashmeres drew a whether from within or from in check in favor of a calmer with pearl pinstripes took the Dundas’ proclivity for skimpy straight line to the Sander the outside, both sides would sophistication (exaggerated surface play a little too far, the dresses in a vigorous sense glory years, their precise, calm have to be in it for the long bowler hats and Lucite ties more subdued treatments, like of luxury. Some might call it minimalism a chic homage. haul. As Jil Sander has plowed were exceptions). a trim on a lapel and single excess, but Pucci has never Conversely, lean dresses through designers and teams, a The designer made a pearls dangling from a black stood for understatement. with asymmetric drapes and whole lot of terrific fashion has statement for tailoring from the scarf, exuded chic. The tribal aspect of the twists at the waist seemed diverted attention elsewhere. start, his first few gray looks inspiration — show notes cited like an attempt to make the including a mannish suit and a Emilio Pucci: As long as she’s Native American and Inuit collection more sensual within Emporio Armani: Lest there be double-breasted coat. Both had on Peter Dundas’ watch, the cultures — allowed Dundas to reason. Could a woman find any doubt about the purpose precisely cut shoulders, though Pucci woman will be swathed genuflect to the house prints clothes to wear? Absolutely; of Friday morning’s visit ease was the overall vibe. in Gypset sex appeal, even in compelling ways, always there were some beauties both to Giorgio Armani’s Milan He showed off a playful side when she’s buried under a giant with a Seventies tint. They tony and alluring. headquarters, the Emporio with smaller details, for example, fringed poncho in a Navajo- came in graphic geometric But that’s not enough. Armani show notes provided the belt-and-buckle feature at inspired knit pattern. Shown patterns, sometimes merged For a collection to resonate a friendly reminder. “A story the hem of pants. They may not with brown leather pants, it was with colorful swirls and as from the runway it must have about fashion,” they stated, be for everyone, and probably one of the more discreet looks embroideries, an elegant armor sprung from a strong, airtight “where masculine and feminine served no purpose other than of Dundas’ fall collection, an of gold and silver studs done point of view, a vision. Though elements come together.” decoration, but Armani rendered exercise in “savage chic,” which over prints for day and on sheer minimalism is no longer the During the press conference them with enough subtlety to was code for moneyed bohemia tulle for the gorgeous golden epitome of fashion cool, is there between his two shows, Armani keep the looks light. in an earth-toned palette. goddess finale. 8 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2014

Marco de Vincenzo: Marco de Vincenzo’s new partnership Marco de Vincenzo Blumarine Roberto Cavalli with LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton is sure to intensify the spotlight aimed at this young Roman designer, whose show on Sunday drew an impressive turnout of top editors and retail executives. His labor-intensive clothes command attention, and his fascination with surface decoration and optical effects was on full display for fall. Rainbow-shaded Lurex winked out from small portholes punched into sailor coats, or flashed from pleated bands carved into the sides of trim coats and shift dresses. Panels of color glimmered between the tight ribs of clinging black knits — a nifty effect akin to Northern Lights. Similarly, circles embroidered with coppery threads took on a 3-D aspect on a black velvet bustier dress and sweatshirt- simple top. While there were a few too many black coats with swirling embellishments reminiscent of Pierre Soulages paintings, the show climaxed with a flurry of pin-dot Swarovski crystal lined up on simple tunics, T-shirts and skirts. They had a liquid effect that was dazzling.

Roberto Cavalli: Is Roberto Cavalli the devil? It’s a reasonable question after he made the age- old joke of fashion-week hell as literal as possible with his fall collection. The center of his set was a ring of fire — live flames lit in a circle — that ignited at the start of the show and re- mained burning for its duration. Anyone who didn’t immediately note the nearest exit had more faith in the Cavalli production team than we did. With roughly 1,200 people jammed into extremely cramped quarters, the pitch- black tent already felt like a fire hazard by fashion-show mind-if- I-sit-on-your-lap standards, and that was before they lit up the FOR MORE REVIEWS place. Surrounding the blaze AND IMAGES, SEE with a shallow pool of water did WWD.COM/ little to dampen the fact that runway. with stifling heat and noxious fumes, the spectacle felt like a genuine safety violation. A spokesperson for Cavalli told WWD that the special effects were handled by strictly regu- lated professionals and “all the necessary permits and security Asian garb is tricky territory fabric archive and turning of the austerity mold with a its luxury knitwear, is in the measures, including the amount that can result in costumes or out luxurious and handsome surfeit of python skin — along midst of an overhaul. Set on of fire marshals and fire extin- kitsch, but Molinari, who is separates that were vaguely with a herd of leopard prints. repositioning itself with a focus guishers required by law and not prone to understatement, retro. Roomy coats, tops Streamlined shapes including on international and retail calculated according to number handled it with relative subtlety. and dresses in double-faced tubular coats, narrow capes, expansion, the company has of egresses, etc.” Also, the flame She packaged the potent colors cashmere boasted curving, boxy sweaters and A-line made two big hires this year, was produced by a nontoxic gel. and floral jacquards on clean wavelike seams — in navy and skirts tempered the glossy and tapping Peter Som in January No, the place did not go up cuts, such as satin minis that black for day, in more vibrant fuzzy patterns. Military and to head the contemporary line in smoke — thank God. But for came in neat origamilike folds combos for cocktail. equestrian references were Les Copains Blue, and Graeme what? To backlight Cavalli’s and a boxy floral top over skinny The clothes were displayed etched lightly in this sleek, Black to design the main line. parade of snakeskin getups satin pants. Quality fabrics on racks, and editors jostled to energetic collection. Black presented his first and flapper dresses that came were key, even when things stroke the lambskin bomber, Fabric blocking has become collection on Friday. Done in a in shredded leather and fur segued into a tarty, party-nights the deerskin coat lined a running story in Milan, and meek palette of black, gray and skirts? Allowing the clothes direction as hemlines rose, in cashmere fluff and the here the forearms of wool mauve, one of the dominant to distract from the inferno necklines plunged and Molinari handloomed sweaters patched blazers were sheathed in plain looks was the chunky sweater, scene for a moment, one found broke out the gold lamé. with shaggy sheepskin. or reptile leather, giving them some with bows and ruffles, that the collection was one of Pilati also unveiled his a tougher aspect, while dresses over a droopy track pant/ Cavalli’s recent best. But even Agnona: “I kind of feel like first handbag for the brand, a with plunging V-necklines were jodhpur hybrid. It seemed like the most seductive gown and Katharine Hepburn, which trapezoid satchel dubbed the composites of jersey, wool, an attempt to merge the sporty sultriest fur couldn’t compete makes me very happy,” model Cara and reminiscent of Fifties snakeskin and leather. with classic femininity, but it with the sight of the door. and actress Dree Hemingway sports bags. Abstract artists provided the ended up in limbo. enthused at the Agnona Hemingway, the face of main print story. While Jackson The knits seemed to be made Blumarine: Anna Molinari presentation, dressed in the Agnona’s spring campaign, is Pollock-esque drips and from fine materials — angora, subjected her Blumarine brand’s white shirt, wide-leg to reprise the role for another squiggles were often too much mohair and cashmere — but standards — short, suggestive navy trousers and cashmere season (she has already shot on jacquard skirts and fuzzy what to make of the intarsias dresses and slim, sexy tailoring cardigan with a scarflike the fall look book), and the firm mohair tunics, Mark Rothko- bearing reindeer and butterfly — to a Far East treatment, protrusion warming her neck. plans to open a boutique on inspired bands of color looked motifs? Given the range of looks, working with kimono effects Stefano Pilati’s second New York’s Madison Avenue gorgeous embedded on wool Black’s vision remains unclear. and opulent fabrics, such as collection for Agnona harked later this year. coats and jackets. duchesse satin in rich, imperial back to its inception in 1953, Ermanno Scervino: Ermanno colors and floral motifs. with the Italian designer Sportmax: This Max Mara Les Copains: Les Copains, the Scervino melded lingerie with Reinterpreting traditional digging into the house’s group brand is slithering out 60-year-old label known for outerwear in his fall collection, WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2014 9 WWD.COM

FALL 2014 Agnona Sportmax Les Copains Ermanno Scervino MILAN COLLECTIONS

Aquilano.Rimondi Au Jour Le Jour

which he described as a meeting direction for fall with a collection the designers strayed from what between couture and technical that blended tailoring with Art they do best. elements. Deco-inspired floral motifs. A blush-pink hooded A stylized rose pattern Au Jour Le Jour: With Milan’s jacket was lined with fur, appeared on a chic gray renewed efforts to spotlight while a cropped puffer vest jacquard V-neck dress with a emerging talent, there was an was sandwiched between an deep split at the back, exposing a impressive turnout for Au Jour Le emerald lace dress and a forest- ruched flesh-colored underskirt. Jour’s runway debut, held at the green sheepskin coat with The florals were rendered Teatro Armani space. With their rolled-up sleeves. in a more tactile manner on fall collection, designers Diego Sheepskin was a recurring brown devoré velvet mixed with Marquez and Mirko Fontana element, from the coats glen-plaid wool, namely on an demonstrated a real comfort level slung over slinky silk or lace oversize drop-shoulder coat. given the large venue. slipdresses to the mountain The flowers turned three- “European girls who move boots, including one pair worn dimensional with metallic in all capitals, day and night,” with a pink ribbed mohair embroideries sprouting on is how Marquez described their sweater and coat. Gold grommets items such as a burgundy inspiration backstage before added edge to a champagne wool sleeveless dress with a the show. The lineup sweetly satin slip; silver studs outlined sheer organza underskirt. “It’s played with whimsical patterns an oversize check pattern on decorative versus realism, and great furs, all done in dresses and coats. masculine versus feminine, silhouettes that veered Sixties. If some of the designer’s light against matte — but all They worked fun dog and cat luxe-versus-utility mash- the fabrics are really precious,” motifs into the clothes, from ups seemed a bit contrived, Aquilano noted backstage. prints on shift dresses and tops the hardware detailing gave Those fabrics included an to white intarsia motifs on furs, traditional innerwear an eye-catching leather that was Equally charming were the intriguing edge. treated with acid to create open-mouth visuals. On a white alternating shiny and matte coat, for example, crystals Aquilano.Rimondi: Tommaso effects on a jacket and matching adorned the teeth like braces. Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi skirt. But with the plainer looks Frivolous, perhaps, but the took their signature embellished (e.g., bulky jackets with oversize look provided a nice Saturday- creations in a more masculine velvet buttons), it seemed that morning jolt of energy. MAESTRI GIANNONI AND DAVIDE GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY 10 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2014

Trussardi Hogan FALL 2014 Uma Wang Rocco Barocco MILAN COLLECTIONS

Trussardi: Given Trussardi’s create prints of tools and bolts elongated blazer paired with a and embroidered onto the Luisa Beccaria: Once guests got heritage in leather goods, that the designer worked on long, ample skirt. knife-pleated panels spliced past the overcrowded entrance it was no surprise that the chiffon dresses and fitted suits While her sensibility for into short skirts. at Luisa Beccaria’s Via Gesù fall show opened with a tank with cigarette pants. “I love that volume owes a clear debt Martial toyed with Space venue, the designer presented dress with a trumpet skirt cut late-Sixties, Ossie Clark vibe,” to Yohji Yamamoto, Wang Age detailing like white rubber a fall lineup that stayed within from thick black leather. Less said Holloway, referring to the managed to offer her own airy buckles on taupe Neoprene her comfort zone. That meant, understandable was the clumsy mood of the clothes. and delicate form of femininity. outfits, but made sure to for the most part, feminine and cut and fit. The prints also embellished ground the collection with ladylike silhouettes infused Gaia Trussardi’s press notes accessories, including slouchy Rocco Barocco: Rocco Barocco plenty of Iceberg’s signature with soft romance, from lingerie emphasized weighty materials doctor bags and feminine ankle- shot his spring advertising knits. Highlights included details to shimmery lace. but she had a lighter touch with strap pumps. It all made for a campaign in Pompeii, and silver laminated jumpers and There were several cocktail the hearty men’s wear fabrics, refreshing new take on Hogan. its faded murals and frescos, a ribbed navy sweater with a dresses, including fit-and- such as tweed, Prince of duplicated on large panels, thick, round collar and extra- flare shapes with embellished Wales plaids and herringbone Uma Wang: With her pretty formed the backdrop to his long sleeves. necklines, that wouldn’t have that was worked on oversize fall collection, Uma Wang fall show and inspired its looked out of place on the sweaters and pleated skirts. confirmed that she’s a talented main prints. Gabriele Colangelo: Citing Kazimir Italian Riviera circa 1950. The collection was full of designer with a clear vision. Black and white tiles became Malevich’s “Black Square” and It was the more unexpected wearable riffs on classics yet She stuck to her aesthetic, checkered patterns for prim yet Joachim Bandau’s watercolors looks — plain, almost austere it felt a bit contemporary for a simplicity with a poetic touch, body-hugging skirts and dresses, in his show notes, Gabriele silhouettes in gray including a luxury label, particularly when here working a nomadic feel while lacquered or metallic Colangelo made a statement for V-neck sweater with a full skirt it came to the sweatshirts and that she said recalled the tribes garlands crept over tight jersey innovative pattern play. and a dirndl-like dress — that a utility jumpsuit decorated of the Eurasian steppe. pants and vaguely Sixties The designer used the proved Beccaria still has a few with emblems. Wang’s ample, asymmetric tunics. Trim tailoring in silvery quadrangle as the base for surprises up her sleeve. silhouettes were done in cozy, tweed looked strong, a foil for many of his designs, whether Hogan: Hogan president textured wool fabrics, mostly delicate Victorian blouses or in waffle textures or geometric I’m Isola Marras: For his I’m Isola Andrea Della Valle considers in striped blanketlike patterns. gilded Guipure skirts. fil coupé work on wool. The Marras presentation, Antonio Simon Holloway “part of A red-and-black motif, for It’s a mystery what artifacts standouts, though, were the Marras transformed his Milanese the family” by now and has instance, was combined with in the ancient Roman town more subtle, almost abstract showroom into a London club, entrusted him with the goal to a jacquard on a series of looks prompted the turquoise and treatments of the theme, such replete with a live girl-band make the Italian brand more including an oversize tunic candy pink fur chubbies. as a skirt done in chiffon performance where models international, Della Valle said dress and a maxi coat. squares graphically placed in danced, hung out and drank beer. at its presentation on Sunday. The designer used a Iceberg: Alexis Martial was studied gradations of black into “I wanted to show the Holloway, a former Jimmy magnified version of a classic inspired by the kinetic gray and white. It had a chic collection in a new, more Choo designer, introduced his pinstripe on a draped, short- creations of Israeli artist ombré effect, and when teamed dynamic way and highlight first men’s total-look collection sleeve dress with raw edges, Yaacov Agam for his fall with a chunky black-and-white its youthful, contemporary (ready-to-wear and accessories) and transformed a romantic Iceberg collection. Rectangle cocoon turtleneck, looked spirit,” said Marras. The cool for Hogan in January, and for Chinese floral paper into motifs recurred throughout, coolly modernist while still lineup was full of easy-to-wear, this women’s lineup he turned a crispy fabric cut into a appearing as a transparent feminine — like much of this casual staples worked in the to artist Julie Verhoeven to number of styles, including an plastic appliqué on sweatshirts apealing collection. brand’s comfortable volumes WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2014 11 WWD.COM

Iceberg Gabriele Luisa I’m Isola Colangelo Beccaria Marras

Genny McQ Alexander FOR MORE REVIEWS McQueen AND IMAGES, SEE WWD.COM/ runway.

and decorated with Marras’ signature florals, this time in graphic motifs. They came on a Bally: With wide range of black-and-white his first houndstooth pieces such as a collection for biker jacket with matching kilt Bally, newly and dress with a bottom ruffle. appointed design Genny: Sara Cavazza Facchini was director aiming for a regal vibe with her Pablo sophomore collection for Genny, Coppola sending out silk chiffon dresses nailed his that featured prints of jewels and mission: the façade of a palazzo at night. Bring the But an abundance of details like 163-year-old peplums and jabots made for a Swiss brand less-than-sophisticated affair. into the Bally present day McQ Alexander McQueen: Japan and design was the inspiration behind the accessories for a strong, modern woman. youthful and cool McQ Alexander Coppola called this lineup a “palette cleanser,” and McQueen lineup for fall. he took a simple and streamlined approach. Hardware A manga comic strip created was minimal on all the bags, including a satchel by artist Yoshiyasu Tamura was with a leather appliqué based on the Bally crest; an printed on a series of looks, oversize sueded croc tote with a simple buckle, and a including an intarsia motorbike structured square shoulder bag, one of its corners cut jacket and a down maxi jacket so that it rested on an angle. covered with a fine plastic layer, The footwear featured a rounded-toe ankle boot set while a pattern inspired by the on a chunky stacked heel, and pointy pumps done in lights of Tokyo’s skyline at night velvet, calf hair and a smooth shiny leather in neutrals was worked on an asymmetric as well as the recently revived Bally red. silk dress. The ready-to-wear, designed by Alexandre For a more elegant look, Mattiussi, worked a similar minimal vibe. Done in Sarah Burton’s creative team luxurious fabrics, the chic daywear staples included studied the silhouettes of a leather bomber jacket bonded with cashmere and samurai armor, designing a worn with a feminine pencil skirt, and a boxy double- series of structured black breasted blazer over a cashmere sweater and ample evening dresses with contrasting masculine pants. white trimming. MAESTRI GIANNONI AND DAVIDE ANDREA DELBÒ, GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY 12 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2014 Mishra Wins Woolmark Prize Claire’s Launching Katy Perry Line The international jury included in the Katy Perry collection will keep the as- By ALESSANDRA TURRA Alexa Chung, Angelica Cheung, By SHARON EDELSON sortment fresh, Fielding said. Colette Garnsey, Franca Sozzani, Other collections at Claire’s include MILAN — Following a fashion show Frida Giannini and Tim Banks. KATY PERRY is coming to Claire’s. Dylan’s Candy Bar, which is being sold at here, Indian designer Rahul Mishra “We all agreed on the winner,” The retailer, which targets three- to Dylan’s and Claire’s stores as well as online was named winner of the 2014 Giannini said. “We were impressed 18-year-olds, is launching the Katy Perry at claires.com and dylanscandybar.com. International Woolmark Prize. Prism collection of jewelry and accesso- Products, all less than $24, include jewelry, Mishra, who was the final- ries globally in more than 3,000 stores. This lip glosses, nail polish, iPhone cases as well ist for India and the Middle is the first time Claire’s has introduced a as lollipops, chocolate bars and cotton-can- East, gets a prize of 100,000 line throughout the world, including 1,590 dy buckets. Australian dollars, or $92,210 stores in the U.S. The balance of units are in There’s also the Sophia Grace & Rosie at current exchange. Canada and 44 international countries. collection, inspired by the eight-year-old In addition, the capsule Katy Perry Prism is a two-year deal British singer and her younger cousin, collection he designed for the timed to coincide with the singer’s world who rose to fame as guests on “The Ellen competition will be sold in tour, which starts in May. “When we sur- Degeneres Show” singing “Super Bass” by high-end stores globally, from vey our girls around the world, she’s the Nicki Minaj. Harvey Nichols and Saks Fifth superstar that resonates globally,” said Jim The line includes 12 items such as tutus, Avenue to 10 Corso Como, Fielding, chief executive officer of Claire’s. tiaras and cosmetics. Claire’s will supply Joyce and David Jones. “We’ve done smaller deals and always car- product for Sophia Grace & Rosie’s upcom- The other four finalists, ried different products. Katy is our big one.” ing film, tentatively scheduled for release selected through a global Fielding stressed that Prism is not sim- later this year. search, were ffiXXed for Asia, ply product with Perry’s likeness, it’s being Claire’s is planning store openings in the

Christopher Esber for Australia, STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE PHOTO BY designed and curated by the U.S., although Fielding Sibling for Europe and Joseph Rahul Mishra with models wearing his designs. star. “Katy is designing a line wouldn’t specify how Altuzarra for the U.S. of jewelry and accessories Katy many. The brand is aggres- The winner was named at the by his incredible knowledge of the that she wanted to make for Perry sively growing its online city’s Triennale Design Museum on art of embroidery, by the coherence her fans,” Fielding said, add- business, which is “still a Friday. Finalists presented their col- of his collection and also by his ing that she’s working with small percentage of our lections in merino wool exclusively great passion.” Claire’s internal design team. total,” he said. Three Web for the competition. “In this case, this prize doesn’t “The overlap between her sites, claires.com in the Delhi-based Mishra presented a award only Rahul’s work, but fans and the Claire’s custom- U.S., claires.co.uk and capsule collection of feminine pieces also him as a person,” said The er is a great overlap. Katy is claires.co.fr, service 118 enriched by precious embroideries Woolmark Co.’s global strategy ad- a very smart businesswoman countries. “Last year, we handmade in India. viser Fabrizio Servente. “We really and a great performer. She opened stores in Costa “I studied in Milan at the Istituto need people working with this pas- knows her brand very well. Rica, the Philippines and Marangoni. So coming back here, meet- sion in this business.” She has a definite aesthetic Columbia and all of those ing this jury and winning this award… Altuzarra, one of the favorites and point of view.” had some online interest it’s kind of a Cinderella story,” said the for the award, didn’t show any dis- The collection will include before we opened them,” designer, visibly moved. Mishra also appointment. “It was really great to limited-edition items, sea- Fielding said. “We defi- underlined that his goal is “to create be part of this project, we learned a sonal novelty pieces, collect- nitely evaluate if there a system” involving people who never lot,” said the designer, who said he ibles and product inspired by seems to be a large per- had access to fashion schools in the will spend one more day in Milan. the lyrics and titles of Perry’s centage of orders going to creation of his collections. “Finally, just relaxing.” greatest hits. Regular updates STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY a certain country.”

PRE-ORDER NOW its 2008 circulation of 432,494. MEMO PAD For New York, the move to go biweekly has already changed the physical magazine — its editorial pages BIWEEKLY RHYTHM: When New York have increased 20 percent — and it has magazine’s editor in chief Adam Moss also changed the company. The staff is revealed in December that his weekly now divided by department or beat, and publication would cut its frequency to not by whether it works for the Web site RUNWAY 26 issues a year, few doubted that the or the print magazine. news would be anything but Longer deadlines have left gloomy for the magazine’s the duo able to play more with staff. Instead, the change different layouts and ideas, not RIGHT AWAY has presented a chance for to mention finding new ways to reorganization without layoffs, meld Web and print storytelling. claimed Moss, who, along with And that experience is fashion director Amy Larocca perhaps the next chapter for and Stella Bugbee, editorial The Cut, which is quickly director of The Cut, unveiled a evolving from its blog roots. new, recurring six-page fashion “The Internet has changed. spread. Created by the staff Five years ago aggregation of the publication’s beauty The cover image of was the game. In the last two and fashion blog, The Cut, the The Cut’s six-page years it’s really shifted from a spread is part of the magazine’s inside spread shot mix of aggregation to original inaugural biweekly issue, by Maciek Jasik. stuff,” Bugbee said. “You can’t which hits newsstands today. be a blog. I don’t even see us as “The decision to go biweekly a blog anymore. I see us as an was just a moment when we outcropping of a magazine.” rethought the whole magazine. — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD And to say we rethought the whole magazine isn’t to say we BE MY GUEST: Jean Paul Gaultier changed the whole magazine, has guest-edited the March but we did think about every issue of Têtu (French for part of it,” Moss said. “It was an “stubborn”), the general- opportunity to make changes interest gay magazine. The that we wanted to make for a designer appears on the cover, long time. The Cut was a logical Jean Paul Gaultier photographed by Stéphane consequence of that process. on the cover of the Sednaoui. He also styled “I’m a big believer in print. March issue of an 18-page fashion shoot, I think print is going to last for Têtu magazine. photographed by Ali Mahdavi, a long time,” Moss stressed. “I that evokes a same-sex wedding think the magazines that last are the best at the Folies Bergère cabaret in Paris. versions of print. That is why fashion In this fictional scene, Gaultier plays the magazines will last for a long time. They role of registrar while guests include are a wonderful version of print.” Arielle Dombasle, Farida Khelfa and Blanca Li. The decision to go biweekly was a The 148-page issue hits newsstands long time coming, and it’s due in part to Wednesday, and fashion advertisers how the Internet has changed the way include Dior Homme, Kenzo and Comme readers consume content. Over the past des Garçons. Têtu editor in chief Yannick five years, New York’s total paid and Barbe plans to invite a different designer verified circulation has consistently for each March issue, coinciding with declined, according to the Alliance the fall collections. The magazine’s paid fairchildphotoservice.com | 800.897.8666 | [email protected] for Audited Media. Circulation in 2013 circulation in France is 31,263. totaled 408,822, a 5.5 percent dip from — LAURE GUILBAULT WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2014 13 WWD.COM Krizia Sold to China’s Shenzhen Marisfrolg {Continued from page one} fashion, made of visionary re- in a suitcase, hopped into her FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE Mariuccia gradually reopen units in the search and immense creativity.” Fiat 500 and scooted around Mandelli most important cities in Europe, The entrepreneur and designer Italy, knocking on the doors WWD.com/ Japan and the U.S. said she was “proud to take on of the finest boutiques to sell fashion-news. Krizia entered China in 1994. the baton and help drive the them became a favorite fashion In 2003, Japan was the com- Krizia myth — and business — tale. She showed the brand for pany’s largest market, with 30 to new heights.” the first time at Palazzo Pitti in brand stores and 400 multibrand Founded in 1993, Marisfrolg Florence in 1964. This all-black- clients. In the Eighties and Fashion last year reported sales and-white collection brought Nineties, boutiques stood in top of 2.56 billion yuan, or $418 mil- her the Critica della Moda shopping streets in New York, lion. The group controls more award, previously won only by Paris, Venice, London and Hong than 400 directly operated fashion designer Emilio Pucci. Kong, mainly designed by archi- stores that carry the high-end, Pleating, sweaters spiked tect Piero Pinto, Aldo Pinto’s contemporary Marisfrolg brand with leopard and tiger motifs, brother. Aldo Pinto’s sons Silvio in top-end shopping malls and sculpted shoulders and cocoon and Andrea, a former Nina department stores in China, shapes became some of Krizia’s Ricci president who worked on South Korea, Singapore and hallmarks, and the designer was and off for Krizia as a general Macau. The Krizia line will not also known for her experiments manager over the years, have be distributed in those stores. with materials such as eel skin, ventured into their own consul- A market source defined Zhu cork and gum. In 1971, Krizia tancy businesses. as “a woman with a strong vi- was awarded the Tiberio d’Oro Mandelli said she was “de- sion and an incredible capacity prize in Capri for her short lighted” to have “found a succes- of understanding where fashion shorts, later renamed HotPants has “more contemporary stylis- Poi, Poi by Krizia, Krizia Jeans, sor” who has “strength and talent is going. Her style is feminine by WWD, at a time when midi tic totems, such as the animal Per Te by Krizia and men’s, in- and is willing to lead Krizia’s in- and flattering. She is the perfect and maxi lengths were preva- knitwear,” compared with other nerwear and sportswear lines. ternational growth. This is good one to give Krizia an interna- lent. In recent collections, brands that have been recently Over the years, Mandelli for everyone.” A fixture of Milan tional and modern flavor.” Mandelli has found far-reaching relaunched, such as Vionnet or tapped designers to work on the Fashion Week and the city’s life Mandelli, who hailed from inspiration ranging from the Far Schiaparelli, that he contended brand including Giambattista along with her husband, the Bergamo, was instrumental East, the Sahara and Zen New- no longer have “aesthetic his- Valli — from 1995 to 1997 — and, strong-willed Mandelli has of late in launching Italian rtw glob- Age to the Space Age, while con- torical references in the con- in 2000, Alber Elbaz, who stayed rarely been seen in public. She ally. After first opening a small tinuing to target women with a sumer’s imagination.” These are on for only one collection before did not take a bow at the end of fashion factory with a friend, bold attitude. strengths that can be leveraged heading to Lanvin. Elbaz was fol- her fall show on Thursday. in 1954, the designer launched While Krizia’s business has for a faster relaunch and repo- lowed by Belgian designer Jean-

E MAESTRI A longtime admirer of the Krizia brand, named after a slowed considerably in recent sitioning of Krizia. Mammina Paul Knott and then English de- Mandelli’s “pioneering work,” Plato dialogue on feminine van- years, Armando Mammina, envisioned the new course of signer Hamish Morrow. Zhu said her “mission was the ity. The story of how she packed Milan-based marketing and stra- Krizia could “already be win- In 1999, to mark the brand’s preservation of Krizia’s idea of her first tank dresses and skirts tegic consultant, said the label ning in the medium period — 45th anniversary, a retrospec- five years.” tive exhibit of 100 outfits was He also noted that, given held at the Grey Art Gallery in Spring Fall 1995 Spring the brand’s strong performance New York with a set designed 1975 2014 with several licenses, “pick- by the husband-and-wife team ing them up again and creating of Dante Ferretti and Francesca new ones can bolster Krizia’s Lo Schiavo, while costume identity and be a business de- designer Gabriella Pescucci, veloper.” Conversely, in the case who won an Oscar for Martin of Vionnet and Schiaparelli, “to Scorsese’s “Age of Innocence” in create an aspirational strength 1994, helped Mandelli pull the of the brand and then extend 100 outfits from more than four the label is more complex” and decades worth of collections. will take longer. Also, the re- After its New York run, the launch of historic brands, such exhibit traveled to Canada, as Pucci, does “not always allow England and Japan. a development beyond its core Mandelli was a forerunner business. The risk is a dilution in two areas that later became of the brand.” of interest to her fashion com- Aldo Pinto, a textile busi- petitors. Always fascinated nessman, and Mandelli married with the arts, in 1985 Mandelli in 1968 in Jamaica. With Pinto’s opened Spazio Krizia at the

help, the designer developed company’s headquarters in Krizia into a global business Milan. The space, a large multi- that included licenses for prod- functional, multimedia area ca- ucts spanning from fragrances pable of containing 700 people, and accessories to eyewear, ties, was planned and designed with

costume jewelry and even wines the help of her brother-in-law, and Champagne. Piero Pinto. Krizia was a pioneer in the Also, in 1989, Mandelli inau- Eighties and Nineties in spin- gurated the K Club in Bermuda, ning the signature brand into an exclusive resort that she de- Spring a plethora of more affordable, signed and which was popular ’’ 2002 younger collections including with celebrities such as Princess Krizia Maglia, Krizia Top, Krizia Diana and Michael Douglas. MANDELLI PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; 1975 BY GIOVANNI LAMI; 1995 BY EMMANUELE SARDELLA; 2002 BY GIOVANNI GIANNON; 2014 BY DAVID GIANNON; 2014 BY EMMANUELE SARDELLA; LAMI; GIOVANNI GIOVANNI 1995 BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; 1975 BY 2002 BY MANDELLI PHOTO BY

Marco LVMH Said Taking Stake in Marco de Vincenzo de Vincenzo {Continued from page one} and operational support to his rtw label. acknowledged LVMH’s interest in his sig- Since then, he has gained a reputation WWD first reported that LVMH had its nature brand. for sophisticated fashions that marry a eye on the designer in September 2012, At present, de Vincenzo wholesales his classic, sporty allure with intense fabric collection to about 20 specialty stores. research and optical effects. While positioned in the designer seg- Backstage at his show Sunday, the de- ment, de Vincenzo’s dresses retail for signer enthused that the LVMH transac- I needed to make my between 900 euros and 1,600 euros, or tion would give him the support needed $1,235 and $2,200 at current exchange; to take his business to the next level. research stronger, outerwear comes in at about 1,200 euros, “I needed to make my research stronger, or $1,650, while knitwear runs from 600 to and they are the perfect partner,” he said. and [LVMH is] the 1,100 euros, or $825 to $1,510. De Vincenzo honed his skills with in- De Vincenzo is poised to become the novative materials at Fendi, where in 2000 latest member of the Fendi studio to make he began helping Silvia Venturini Fendi perfect partner. a name for himself beyond the Roman design the brand’s accessories collections. — MARCO DE VINCENZO house, which is to fete its 90th anniversary It is understood de Vincenzo will con- next year. Famous Fendi alumni include tinue to consult for the Roman fashion Gucci’s creative director Frida Giannini label, which, in a precursor to the joint when Fendi chairman and ceo Pietro and Valentino design duo Maria Grazia venture deal, began providing logistics Beccari attended de Vincenzo’s’’ show and Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli. IMAGES FILLIPO MONTEFORTE/AFP/GETTY PHOTO BY 14 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2014

decorative purposes, at times serving The exhibition, which opens March 1 A room at Hôtel as a rack. and is organized thematically, showcases du Continent, Meanwhile, the seats function as 150 mostly original prints from 90 designed by eye storage and display boxes at the same photographers including Cecil Beaton, Christian time. “The shop is an extension of my Irving Penn, Guy Bourdin and Inez van Lacroix. clothes,” said Charlier. “Copper is my Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. fetish metal, while felt is a material of “It’s also a history of women’s contrast — noble and raw at once.” representation over the decades,” said Located on the third floor of the store, Herschdorfer. the corner stocks the designer’s clothing In the Seventies, a photo by Deborah line and accessories. Turbeville — her first series for U.S. — PAULINA SZMYDKE Vogue — showed women lounging in what could be a public bath. The model Printemps Haussmann in the foreground has her hand between 64 Boulevard Haussmann, 75009 her thighs. “It shocked America. Readers Tel.: +33-1-42-82-50-00 — especially outside big cities — were Open Monday to Saturday, blaming the magazine for what they saw as 9:35 a.m.-8 p.m., and Thursday, a lesbian scene,” Herschdorfer explained. 9:35 a.m.-10 p.m. The exhibition kicked off in 2012 at the C/O Berlin photography gallery. But in the MADE-TO-MEASURE TREATMENT: Palais Galliera’s version, the photos are Aroma-Zone’s new 5,555-square-foot accompanied by 15 couture items from megastore on Paris’ Left Bank the fashion museum’s collections. includes a spa offering personalized “They aren’t illustrations of pieces skin-care treatments. shown in the photos. It is a dialogue between the photographs and clothes,” Set designer Pier Luigi Pizzi has continued Herschdorfer. placed the objects on black pedestals An Aroma-Zone treatment room. The tour includes contemporary films lit from within to accentuate the beauty outlining the possible future of fashion of the materials. Highlights include a photography and culminates with 50 pair of rock crystal candleholders with magazines in display cases and screens, Paris gilded bronze lizards twisting around where visitors can leaf through some of the stem, and a jade Buddha head with the publications’ features. a crown set with pearls, turquoise and — LAURE GUILBAULT precious stones. “I adore everything that is useless “Coming Into Fashion, a Century of Scene and pleasant. Nowadays, people only Photography at Condé Nast,” want useful things, so this is fun,” von March 1 to March 25 This fashion season, the City Fürstenberg said. “They are things you Palais Galliera, 10 Avenue Pierre Ier de of Light has a lot to offer — don’t need but that give you pleasure.” Serbie, 75016 First shown at the Museo Bagatti Tel.: +33-1-56-52-86-00 from art exhibitions to shops Valsecchi in Milan last September, the Open Tuesday to Sunday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., to spas. Here’s a smattering objects will go on sale next month at Thursday 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. the Galerie Steinitz in Paris. Further of the latest. exhibitions are due to take place in HOME AWAY FROM HOME: Ventilo, the Monaco, New York and Hong Kong later quirky French fashion label, is setting AROUND THE WORLD: The fourth Paris in the year. — JOELLE DIDERICH up shop in the middle of Paris’ antique hotel designed by Christian Lacroix, dealers strip on the Quai Voltaire. Hôtel du Continent, is perhaps his most “Objets uniques” — Ira von Fürstenberg, The venue, which is slated to open on eclectic, with each of its six floors given Feb. 13 to March 2 Tuesday, is conceived as a “maison,” a decor inspired by — from bottom to Musée Jacquemart-André where clothes take a backseat to a top — Europe, Antarctica, Oceania, Asia, 158 Boulevard Haussmann, 75008 handsome collection of vintage furniture Africa and America. Tel.: +33-1-45-62-11-59 and home objects. Located a stone’s throw from Place Open Monday to Sunday, “It’s pieces that I have collected and Vendôme, the hotel’s 25 rooms run from 10 a.m.-6 p.m. that have inspired me over the years,” 125 euros to 400 euros, or $170 to $540 said Armand Ventilo, deploring that now at current exchange, depending on the CORNER SHOP: For his first department- his own home will be “a little empty.” size. Each bears Lacroix’s inimitable store corner, Cédric Charlier conjured The mostly Scandinavian furniture mix of bold colors and prints for wall a space based on a toned-down mix of mix includes a Kennedy chair by coverings, drapery and furnishings. copper, metal and felt. Hans Wegner, artichoke lamps by Poul The acclaimed couturier, now Advised by architect and interior Henningsen and a tuck-away valet by

devoted to theater costumes, exhibitions designer Régis Larroque, whose list PHOTO FROM CONDÉ NAST ARCHIVES Poul Østergaard. and interior design projects, said he’s of clients includes Nina Ricci, Louis Deborah Turbeville, American Vogue, May 1975. The shop will also stock Ventilo’s also working on a fifth Paris hotel, on spring collection, the first one designed trendy Rue de Charonne, and in April After responding to a few questions by Steven Hamon, who joined the brand will unveil a revamped Hôtel Jules regarding needs, likes and dislikes, last June from Lanvin and Marc Jacobs. César in his hometown of Arles. a visitor’s answers are run through a With shop attendants serving coffee — MILES SOCHA computer and a skin-care formula is and cake while customers chat and linger, produced. Made fresh and on the spot, the boutique is everything but ordinary. Hôtel du Continent the product is used in one of three “It’s a bazaar,” said Ventilo. — P.S. 30 Rue du Mont-Thabor, 75001 treatment rooms, where lighting, music Tel.: +33-1-42-60-75-32 and scent are all chosen in keeping with Maison Ventilo the client’s desires. 7 Quai Voltaire, 75008 PRECIOUS CARGO: Ira von Fürstenberg Prices range from 39 euros, or $54 at Tel.: +33-1-44-76-83-00 is showing a selection of her one-of-a- current exchange, to 75 euros, or $103. Open Monday to Saturday, 11 a.m.-7 p.m. kind precious objects in an exhibition — JENNIFER WEIL at the Musée Jacquemart-André in Paris through March 2. Aroma-Zone Ventilo’s new The tireless globetrotter has created 25 Rue de l’École de Médecine, 75006 Paris shop. animal sculptures, crosses, bowls and Tel.: +33-1-43-26-08-93 skulls from materials such as rock Open Tuesday to Thursday, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., crystal, jade, aquamarine and and Friday and Saturday, malachite set off by precious Cédric 10 a.m.-7:30 p.m. metals. Most are Charlier’s based on wooden corner at FASHION PHOTO OP: American Vogue objects picked up Printemps invented fashion photography early in on her travels, which Haussmann. the last century, and it quickly became

she then has reworked by ALFREDO PIOLA PHOTO BY an art form and profession. (Until then, artisans as far afield there were only illustrations.) as Madagascar, India Vuitton and Kris Van “Mr. Condé [Montrose] Nast and Nepal. Assche, Charlier opted can be credited for hiring fashion “In the beginning, for subtle geometrical photographers. He strongly believed I was looking for patterns worked into a in showing the dynamism of modern unusual gifts for sleek 269-square-foot life,” explained Nathalie Herschdorfer, friends. Everything I corner, at Printemps curator of the exhibition entitled Ira von Fürstenberg’s found in stores looked Haussmann, where “Papier glacé, un siècle de photographie goblet in rock crystal the same, so I decided form follows function de mode chez Condé Nast” (“Coming with gilded bronze to create something and vice versa. To wit: Into Fashion, a Century of Photography cherub. different. I started off A continuous metal bar, at Condé Nast”) at Paris’ Palais Galliera. with small objects, and 49 feet long, meanders Herschdorfer mined the publishing gradually they became throughout the entire group’s archives to retrace 100 years of

bigger,” she explained. space — at times for purely fashion photography. BELONCLE FRANCK PHOTO BY WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2014 15 WWD.COM

CHANGES AT L.K. BENNETT: Robert Bensoussan outerwear pieces, including a reversible FASHION SCOOPS has taken over as chief executive duvet and padded blazers, produced by officer of the British accessories and Colmar, along with four different Italia ready-to-wear brand L.K. Bennett. He Independent sunglasses. said over the din of music in the replaces Didier Drouet, who has left the The jackets and the frames VIP area of the bar. “Yes because it company after a little over a year in the are decorated with prints created would be nice to hold on to them, no job. Bensoussan had been serving as exclusively for the project, including because I’m too scared to have it in my the company’s executive a lightning motif, as well as a possession. I’m quite happy to give it chairman and is its FOR MORE pinstripelike pattern where the back, just to borrow.” shareholder of reference. SCOOPS, SEE traditional lines are replaced Watts recently completed filming He had served as ceo by the Italia Independent logo Noah Baumbach’s “While We’re Young.” before Drouet. WWD.com repeated in sequence. Costarring Ben Stiller and Amanda Bensoussan’s “We will soon announce other

ALL PHOTOS BY STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE ALL PHOTOS BY Seyfried, the comedy focuses on an companies, Sirius Equity collaborations with international uptight documentary filmmaker and and Phoenix Equity Partners, purchased companies known around the world,” said his wife who befriend a free-spirited Bennett in 2008. Italia Independent chief executive officer younger couple. “We’re inspired by Drouet started his career at L’Oréal Andrea Tessitore. the youth,” Watts said of her on-screen in 1984 and joined Cartier in 1992. He He also revealed that the company Hilary Swank and relationship with Stiller. has held a number of senior executive would open three new stores — in New James Ferragamo Dave Franco, former Miss World Zhang positions in companies including York, Miami and Paris — before the end of Zilin, Zhang Xinyuan and Izabel Goulart Salvatore Ferragamo and LVMH Moët the year. were among those invited Hennessy Louis Vuitton, where he was “We are currently working on the PIONEERING SPIRIT: Hilary to check out Bulgari’s fall ceo of Emilio Pucci. — SAMANTHA CONTI architectural aspect with the interior Swank swooped into the handbags, including the new designers and we are Salvatore Ferragamo Icona 10, which pays homage FITS AND STARTS: A trio of British checking out all the show in Milan on Sunday to the jeweler’s flagship on beauties and performers — details to make some moments before it was due Rome’s Via Condotti, set to Samantha Barks, Ellie Goulding and improvements to our to start. reopen next month after a Cheryl Cole — took in the Roberto concept store,” added The Oscar-winning renovation. — J.D. Cavalli show on Saturday. Italia Independent actress returns to the big A newcomer at Milan Fashion president Lapo Elkann. screen this year in “The SECURITY ZONE: Milla Jovovich Week, Goulding flew in just for “Every new store we open Homesman,” directed by caused quite a commotion the show and cited an affinity for has something better and starring Tommy Lee at the newly renovated the Italian label. “It seems to fit compared to the older Jones. In it, she stars as Marella boutique on Milan’s me, and believe me, it’s always ones. With time you learn Mary Bee Cuddy, a pioneer Corso Vittorio Emanuele on something great!” she said with how to make things work woman charged with Saturday night as passersby a laugh. better. So we are slightly escorting three insane eagerly tried to get close to Goulding added she is revising both the aesthetic women from Nebraska the actress and model, who working hard to “make my live of the stores and the to Iowa with the help of fronts the ads for the Max show really fantastic” on the product offering.” Jones’ character. Mara Group brand. eve of a U.S. tour, followed by Ellie Italia Independent “It’s a very dangerous Alison Brie Jovovich flew in from another in Asia. Goulding has 10 stores in Italy, 36 time, and it’s just a London, where she has been Cole is also focused on her shops-in-shop and sells world that we don’t filming political thriller artistic career. “I’m working on its collections to 3,000 even think about because of all the “Survivor,” directed a new album, which will be out opticians and 180 fashion stores around modern-day things we have and by James McTeigue and this year,” she related. the world. — A.T. neighbors that we have. Sorry, it’s costarring Pierce Brosnan. Actress and singer Barks, real hard to concentrate here,” “It’s a fun script. I play who came to the fore playing THRICE IS NICE: Israeli actress Moran Atias she said apologetically, as ushers a visa security officer the role of Éponine in the film has started filming “Tyrant,” a drama rushed stragglers to their seats. “But and there’s a potential version of “Les Misérables,” will pilot by Howard Gordon, Gideon Raff and the clothes were beautiful,” she attack on the American be on screens with two movies Craig Wright, the creators of successful whispered. Embassy. I enjoy these later this year, “Dracula Untold,” series “Homeland.” Alison Brie was buzzing with the action type movies, it’s directed by Gary Shore, and George This represents another step in the success of “The Lego Movie,” which exciting,” she said. Mendeluk’s “The Devil’s Harvest.” career of Atias, who not only was part has topped the North American box — LUISA ZARGANI — ALESSANDRA TURRA of the cast of Paul Haggis’ movie “Third office for the third weekend in a row. Person,” but also pitched in writing the “I know that everyone loves Lego, but I MAKING A POINTE: Guests DOUBLE VISION: Italia film’s screenplay. didn’t know how much,” she marveled. walking into the ornate Independent and Colmar “I had the idea for this movie about “It just seems like kids of all ages are Palazzo Bocconi in celebrated their second co- five years ago. I really wanted to write really enjoying it.” Milan on Sunday were branded collection with a a film exploring relationships,” she Brie, known for her roles in “Mad likely to run into a cocktail party held at Milan’s related Sunday at the Trussardi show. Men” and “Community,” voices the ballerina striking a Spazio Edit on Friday night. “Being there from the first day to the last character of Unikitty in the animated pose on the staircase. Milla Jovovich The capsule includes nine day of the process was really a dream film. “She’s very pink. I’m channeling The venue was hosting men’s and women’s down-filled come true.” — A.T. her a little bit tonight with my shoes,” a tribute to Deborah said the actress, pointing to her pink Turbeville, who died last October at suede heels. “She’s very sort of sticky the age of 81. sweet but has a bit of an angry dark Guests took in an exhibition of side, so that was fun to play with.” some of the images the photographer — JOELLE DIDERICH had published in Italian Vogue over the years, as eight classical RETURN POLICY: Bulgari presented its ballerinas paraded in looks from latest accessories collection in Milan Erika Cavallini’s fall collection, which For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. with a party at the Bulgari Hotel on incorporated tutus and other elements Thursday night. Guests included of dancewear. Naomi Watts, who was decked out in a Cavallini said she contacted Serpenti necklace pavéd with more Turbeville shortly before her death to Spaces than 75 carats of diamonds. Watts ask her to shoot an ad campaign for was handing back the jewels after the brand, but the commission never midnight. Would she be sad? “Yes came to pass. COMMERCIAL and no,” the Oscar-nominated actress “She was very enthusiastic about REAL ESTATE LUXURY HANGERS MANUFACTURER REPS WANTED the project when I told her about this The most comprehensive collection of Current reps make $100k+. Our fashi- dance universe and the ballerinas, and luxury women’s and men’s hangers on earbuds, iPhone cases sell in 5000+ available in the world, 4 different stores. If you sell to fashion accessory I was very happy, because she was my sizes. www.hangerproject.com buyers, email: [email protected]. favorite photographer,” Cavallini said. (800) 495-3201 “It was a dream come true.” PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Showrooms & Lofts PRODUCTIONS In homage to Turbeville, the BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Full service shop to the trade. Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 designer recruited five rising ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 photographers on Instagram to take pictures of her creations, which have been collected into a book. “I contacted these people because their style was very much in line with Deborah Turbeville’s,” she noted. Meanwhile, a group of photographers selected by Vogue Italia from among the 75,000 members of its PhotoVogue contributors’ page were on hand to capture the action, as the Naomi Watts ballerinas modeled items such as silk (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] and Dave Franco dresses featuring patterns based on vintage wallpaper samples. — J.D. © 2014 CHLOE. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

CHLOE.COM WWDAccessories Section II

FRAMING GROWTH FOR EYEWEAR THE STATE OF THE STATEMENT NECKLACE BIG SCREEN SHADES

CHIC& SLEEK A monotone look is anything but monotonous. Here, Guess’ tote in tie-dyed, fake patent leather and Wildfox Sun’s handmade frames in Mazzucchelli’s Italian acetate. BCBG top and Frame Denim jeans.

PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY 2 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDACCESSORIES

Around the world in accessories. IN THE MIX Jonathan Johnson

Closures are cleverly structured to ■ Jana Patz makes sustainable GERMAN TRIO be invisible in the fluid, movable pieces. jewelry with a twist production Germany’s design heritage and new Uncommon Matters is sold in gal- — Möbius loops and (including re- energy merge in three jewelry brands leries and concept stores, including figure eights. Patz’s cycled gold and that are gaining global attention. Andreas Murkudis in Berlin, Lisa Perry line, The Medley Institute, silver) and pop — SUSAN STONE in New York and Luisa Via Roma in specializes in shapes culture influences Florence. Retail prices run from $112 that are at first glance combine to create ■ Amélie Riech trained as an archi- for a simple onyx ring to $599 for fold- simple, but upon closer in- a varied range, from tect yet holds a diploma in fashion de- ing earrings to $1,648 for a linked collar. spection these gold- and sil- name necklaces spelling sign. Both of these influences are evi- ver-plated and sterling pieces out “Made in China” to gem- dent in her refined jewelry collection, curve and soar. studded rings pulling from Uncommon Matters. Riech, who grew up The Berlin-based Patz, also a lec- Mughal Indian styles. in Paris and Berlin and still travels Medley turer at the city’s University of Pfeiffer has collaborated with regularly between the two cities, uses Institute the Arts, drapes metal on the body Bruce LaBruce and musician fine metal (gold- and silver-plated, in a kind of tactile topography. Angie Reed; a recent collection is mostly on brass) and materials such as Stockists for The Medley inspired by natural and man-made onyx, porcelain and glass to sculpt her Institute include Weltenbürger detritus, and features tourmaline wearable, intricate works. in Los Angeles, LaGarçonne. and cast leaves, insects and soda- com and Haltbar in Munich. can pull tabs. The brand was also high- The Jonathan Johnson lighted in the Vogue Salon collection is sold at Berlin during Berlin Fashion Week concept store Happy Shop in January. Prices for rings and Hamburg music shop range from $137 to $342, Hanseplatte, as well as on- bracelets are $260 to $397 and line and in the brand’s show- necklaces run $240 to $301. room/shop. Next up: Patz will offer some Prices range from $80 for liq- options for men. uid mercury-look stud earrings to $340 for a Bruce LaBruce L.A. ■ Jonathan Johnson is the nom de bijoux Zombie ring, to $11,775 for a large Uncommon Matters of Hamburg-based jewelry designer gold chain with a massive facetted Oliver Pfeiffer. His curious blend of Brazilian topaz.

SEEING EYE TO EYE and some even change them every day CHINA’S GOLD RUSH CONTINUES For Tokyo’s fashion set, a well-crafted to match their clothing or mood, just In the lead-up to the Chinese New in Beijing. According to data provided look is often all about the details, right as they would any other accessory. But Year holiday, jewelry counters across by the company, within the first hour of down to prescription eyewear they those who shop at Lunettes du Jura the country were swamped by shop- trading in 2014, the flagship sold 10 mil- might change on a daily basis. Lunettes often have one thing in common: They pers looking to take advantage of low lion yuan ($1.65 million) worth of jew- du Jura, a Japanese retailer specializ- want to be unique. gold prices. elry, the vast majority of it 24-karat gold. ing mostly in niche European eyewear “We used to get people asking what China overtook India as the world’s “Gold and gold jewelry mean more brands, has been catering to this de- was most popular, and then they would top gold buyer in 2013, with China to Chinese people than many Western manding clientele for 25 years. say, ‘OK, then I don’t need that.’ So now Minsheng Bank estimating the coun- people could imagine. It contains an Lunettes du Jura, which counts we make recommendations based on try’s gold consumption grew 30 percent emotional legacy, traditions, customs, three locations in Tokyo and one in what suits the customer, rather than year-on-year to a record 1,050 tons. you name it,” said Cao Xiaorui, di- the nearby city of Yokosuka, takes its what is selling well,” Suto said, adding Global prices of gold dropped nearly rector of jewelry for the World Gold name from the mountainous French that the store doesn’t have any particu- 30 percent last year, after a 12-year bull Council’s Far East division. region famous for producing high- lar bestsellers as each customer wants run. At the beginning of 2013, the price Gold jewelry is not only a gift tradi- quality eyewear. The main flagship, in something different. of gold was $1,693.75 an ounce, but it tionally given to friends, colleagues and the Gaienmae neigh- had fallen to $1,204.50 by year’s end. The loved ones over the New Year period, it borhood, near the Lunettes du Jura’s colorful selection. start of 2014 has seen prices rebound is also, according to Cao, a long-term in- Aoyama district, cov- somewhat, to the cur- vestment and therefore ers a selling space of rent level of around insulated from world- about 2,260 square $1,324. This didn’t sway wide price fluctuations. feet; the other stores Chinese consumers Retail data from are smaller. The during the lead-up to 29% China’s Ministry of chain shuns standard the year of the horse, Commerce shows designer names like which began Jan. 31, as GROWTH IN CHINA’S demand for gold and Chanel and Gucci demand remained high. silver jewelry rose DEMAND FOR GOLD IN 2013. in favor of smaller Chinese demand, by upwards of 30 per- brands, mainly from which was up 29 per- cent year-on-year in France but also cent through the third quarter of last each of the provinces surveyed dur- from elsewhere in year, according to the World Gold ing the Lunar New Year festivities. Europe. It also stocks Council, runs counter to many other This may be in part due to the de- some Japanese and parts of the world, where demand mand for horse-themed trinkets prov- American brands. globally rises along with the price of ing more popular than snake-themed The store’s invento- gold; in China and some other parts of jewelry, which accompanied 2013’s PHOTO BY YUKIE MIYAZAKI PHOTO BY ry includes items such Asia, as the price goes down, consum- Lunar New Year celebrations. as natural buffalo-horn frames (which When the first store opened, it car- ers buy more, because they don’t buy “For hundreds of years, Chinese peo- retail for around 150,000 yen, or about ried many brands that couldn’t be found and sell, they hold on to their gold. ple have used gold jewelry as a form of $1,475) by German brand Hoffman and elsewhere in Japan, but now many of The World Gold Council said de- saving, a counter-inflation tool,” he said. brightly colored specs in funky shapes by these labels have grown to have a wider mand for gold was up throughout “Chinese people who buy physi- Traction Productions of France. Most re- distribution network. Still, Suto noted much of Asia last year, with the most cal gold jewelry, gold bars and coins tail prices range from 20,000 yen (about that Lunettes du Jura’s customers recent figures available (encompass- tend to be quite sticky. Most peo- $197) to 60,000 yen ($592). will often go to great lengths to get the ing the first through third quarters) ple wouldn’t do short trading with Other brands on its stock list include frames they want, and they expect the showing a year-on-year rise of 20 this medium, they normally keep it Hoet, J.F. Rey, Reiz, Frances Klein, Mykita, store to do the same. percent in Indonesia, 17 percent in whether the price goes up or down.” Face à Face, Frost and Kirk Originals. “We have people who check our Thailand and 13 percent in India. Experts believe the continued ex- “Eyeglasses are an element of fash- blog every day, and if they see some- Bucking the Asian trend was South pansion of the middle class and the cen- ion,” said Fumio Suto, Lunettes du thing they like, they’ll come to the shop Korea, which saw year-on-year demand tral government’s push for urbanization Jura’s representative director. “By the very next day or soon after — even fall 5 percent. European markets also are only going to increase the number putting [functional] lenses in a pair from places outside of the city,” he saw declines, including the U.K. (down of Chinese buyers looking to buy gold of [our] glasses, people can have fun said. “And if we don’t have a particular 11 percent) and Italy (down 9 percent). jewelry in the foreseeable future. with them, and I think there’s still a big frame in the color they want, for exam- Back in China, indicative of this gold “Over the next 20 years, the gold market for that.” ple, we will order it for the customer, rush were chaotic scenes on Jan. 1, jewelry market will still be booming in Suto said he believes many of his even just one piece.” when one of the nation’s largest jewelry China,” said Cao, “until this urbanization customers own several pairs of glasses, — KELLY WETHERILLE dealers, Caishikou, opened a flagship process is complete.” — CASEY HALL Λυξοττιχα⊇Γρουπ⊇∠⊇Στψλε:⊇ΡΞ7018Λυξοττιχα⊇Γρουπ⊇∠⊇Στψλε:⊇ΡΞ7018 4 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDACCESSORIES Framing Out Global Growth Uncharted eyewear opportunities remain in emerging markets. By Sophia Celeste

MILAN — Despite the fact that emerg- will be more challenging than con- “Guess is not currently strong in Asian there, the Chinese maintain a focus on ing markets like Turkey, Brazil and sensus expectations, and it remains countries but has great potential there. the quality of life, Zoppas explained. Indonesia are currently experiencing cautious from a stock market perspec- To succeed in today’s world, we need to “This is also because the Chinese economic and political pressures, eye- tive,” Nomura said. be prepared to play in a balanced way government is raising salaries to in- wear makers here say there are still Through its diverse portfolio and have the critical mass that allows us crease the quality of life and health. opportunities to be had in these re- of brands, Marcolin ceo Giovanni to operate wherever,” Zoppas added. Vision is one of the elements positively gions this year. Zoppas thinks the company will Despite a deceleration of econom- involved by that,” explained Zoppas. Last year, such markets served as buck the trend in the world’s ic growth and consumer spending Italia Independent, a relative- a key driver for key Italian compa- most populous nation. Most of ly young company, listed its nies like Luxottica, the world’s larg- shares on the AIM segment est eyewear maker, and industry of Italy’s bourse last year. observers here expect those Controlled by Lapo Elkann, zones, along with China, to Italia Indpendent’s access point fuel growth. to China is through Hong Kong. “The key emerging mar- This year, however, the compa- kets for Luxottica are Brazil, ny’s primary focus is on direct in- Mexico, China, India and vestments and enlarging its human Turkey. On top of resources in Europe and the U.S. these countries, “We believe that the U.S. is the Luxottica is fo- most important opportunity for our cused on new mar- brand,” said Italia Independent ceo kets in Southeast Andrea Tessitore. “The challenge is a Asia, specifically ▲ big one, because it is a very tough mar- in Indonesia and Italia ket to penetrate — especially for for- Thailand, where Independent eign, young and small-sized companies it plans to develop that can only be competitive if they a direct presence,” focus on creativity and originality. This Luxottica chief philosophy fits in well with our style.” executive officer Tessitore added that strong sales

Andrea Guerra said ▲ Diesel results have already been achieved in in an interview. Florida, specifically in Miami. The com- In 2013, Luxottica saw pany plans to open a store its net sales rise 7.5 per- there this year, as well cent at constant exchange to as one in New York. a record 7.3 billion euros, or $9.98 “The U.S. at present billion, boosted by emerging markets as constitutes approxi- well as Europe. mately 5 percent of our Somewhat of an anomaly in the turnover and is constant- fashion world in general, the eyewear ly growing,” Tessitore said. market over the years has outper- Driven by sales in the formed Italy’s retail and textile market Asia-Pacific region and the — even through the darkest days of U.S., Marchon Eyewear the financial crisis. Over the last ▲ Inc., which manufactures decade, eyewear sales have Valentino frames for leading American shown that even through tough labels like Michael Kors and times, owning a pair of brand- Calvin Klein under license, fore- name shades has allowed shop- casts rising sales into 2014. pers to satisfy their penchant “We are focused on all global for luxury goods, even though markets, understanding that re- they might not have been able to gional fluctuations are both cycli- afford —or chose not to buy — ap- cal and expected,” said Marchon parel or handbags from the same ceo and president Claudio Gottardi. vanguard Italian labels. Marchon, based in New York, Penetrating China continues to be opened a subsidiary in Italy’s eyewear a concern for the Italian businesses ▲ district of Belluno in 1995, where it lo- in general. According to Italy’s sta- cated a production site and a design tistics office Istat, exports to China Ray-Ban center. It manufactures many of its fell 3.5 percent for the year ended in frames in Italy, including licensed la- November, the latest month avail- bels like Valentino and Emilio Pucci. able. Exports to the association of This year, Cirillo Marcolin, presi- ASEAN countries, which includes Marcolin’s sales are generated in dent of international eyewear fair Cambodia, the Philippines, Indonesia, the U.S. and in Europe, but despite MIDO and ANFAO, Italy’s association Laos, Malaysia, Thailand, Singapore, ongoing economic challenges, emerg- of eyewear producers, sees emerging Vietnam and Myanmar, led extra ing markets like China still have markets helping the industry overall European Union losses in the region, great potential. and predicts an uptick in exports com- falling 15.9 percent. In an effort to strengthen its pres- pared with 2013. In its Luxury Datawatch report ence in the U.S., Marcolin bought “I believe that 2014 can reassure published in January, Nomura bank North American eyewear company our industry in terms of exports, es- predicted pressure would continue on Viva International last year. Zoppas pecially to the U.S., which is our main luxury spending in China into 2014. It said that with its portfolio of more ac- market; some euro zone countries like also said that the effects of the ongoing cessible brands like Guess and Harley- France and Germany, and emerging financial and banking crisis in China Davidson, Marcolin is better posi- countries like Brazil, Mexico, South are difficult to quantify at the moment. tioned to captivate shoppers looking American countries, Turkey, Saudi “Overall, our team in Asia believes for accessible brands, in China and in Arabia and the United Arab Emirates,” that 2014, especially in the first half, the rest of the world. Giorgio Armani Marcolin said.

6 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDACCESSORIES

Iosselliani’s faded The State of ink blue rose brass bib necklace with The Statement purple crystals. Necklace Designers are taking a more refined, streamlined approach to the best-selling piece. By Lauren McCarthy

THE STATEMENT NECKLACE is growing up. As the jewelry market sees a turn to more delicate, personal pieces, design- WXYZ Jewelry’s ers are taking a more mature approach plated brass to the best-selling item. “We have Septa Pentagon shifted into more of a streamlined necklace. look,” said Dana Lorenz, designer of Fenton/Fallon. “The statement has really moved into the uniqueness of the piece.” Excessive adornment and a full rainbow of colors are being traded for sculptural designs and mixed metals. For many design- ers, the statement now lies more in the artistry — and often, in the restraint of the necklace’s craftsmanship. “What we’re talking about [with the state- ment necklace] is a better de- signed, more elaborate style,” said Gerard Yosca. He cited a saturation of lower-end, inexpensive it- erations of the statement “The neck- necklace as motivation to Lulu Frost’s lace is our bread advance his designs. “When brass Future and butter,” said you get these necklaces that necklace with Danielle. “It’s the best look like $5, that kind of glass stones and visual representation of makes them all look a little painted glass our inspiration. The surface different,” he said. “In a pearls. area tends to be bigger on a necklace. way, they’ve gotten a little You can really showcase quite a range cheap-looking. The state- in terms of color and design choices.” ment necklace start- Now entering their sixth year in busi- ed high-end and it’s ness, the sisters attribute one-third of kind of sunk down, overall sales, including e-commerce so now, things are and wholesale, to the necklace category. becoming simpler.” While the bib remains one of the most Materials have re- popular styles, the designers constantly mained the same for push to move their creations forward. Yosca (glass, semipre- “I think you can still have a state- cious stones, touches Dannijo’s plated ment necklace with a beautiful stone,” of enamel), but the jet hematite Bayne Jodie said. “It’s doesn’t have to be overall aesthetic necklace with huge to be a statement. The best part has shifted. “They Swarovski crystal. about our customers is how they take are still elaborate the jewelry and layer it and make it and thoughtfully their own. Not everyone wears the designed, but the necklace in the same way.” scale is coming A recent trend of combining several down, so you have simple pieces has transformed into a an impressive as a whole. “My feeling is that new concept of statement necklaces, piece of jew- it’s always a really important wherein customers can create their elry that doesn’t way to have a cornerstone for a own take on the look. scream,” said story,” said Giles & Brother’s Philip “What we’re seeing a lot is that peo- Yosca. “We’re mak- Crangi. “I always go to a statement ple are buying pieces that are shorter ing necklaces that necklace for that because it really has and longer and then stacking them and look a little more real so much impact. From a design stand- layering together,” said Ali Galgano, and a little less fantasy.” point, it remains a really important founder of Charm & Chain, an e-tailer “As a brand, we’re evolving part of how I build the collection.” of designer fashion jewelry. “So some- from season to season,” said Eddie Jodie and Danielle Snyder of body that might want to wear this huge Borgo, citing his recent necklace Dannijo echoed the sentiment. The piece gets away with wearing three or stories as “impactful in volume.” sisters admittedly have much to owe to four necklaces and that’s still making Several described statement the statement necklace: A little more a statement. Pieces layered together necklaces as the physical mood than five years ago, they introduced to make a statement is a really impor- board for any given season, with their signature bib style, resulting in a tant concept trending in our retail.” the return to a simpler-style neck- devoted following and a catchphrase: However, while customers may be buy- lace reflecting upon the collection “Put a bib on it.” {Continued on page 8} PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTOS BY © 2014 D. Swarovski Distribution GmbH Swarovski® is a registered trademark of Swarovski AG. Toll free:18004630849,[email protected] WWW.SWAROVSKI.COM/PROFESSIONAL TODAY’S PRODUCTS. Be inspiredbyournewshapes,colors, and effectsforSpring/Summer2015. For moreinformation,please contact: SWAROVSKI NORTH AMERICALTD. TOMORROW’S TOMORROW’S TRENDS FOR WE OFFER OFFER WE

8 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDACCESSORIES

{Continued from page 6} sales, while Paolo Giacomelli, half of the clination towards the pieces. ing several units of a more delicate designing duo behind Iosselliani, said the “People love that they can necklace in one visit, the larger, more category is consistently the Italian band’s bridge special events and ev- detailed, larger pieces continue pull in best-selling category. eryday casual with the same the most revenue. “People are definite- “Statement necklaces are easy to piece,” said WXYZ Jewelry ly willing to spend a lot more money wear,” Giacomelli said. “You can wear designer Laura Wass. for something when they know they’ll casual jeans and a T-shirt, and a state- Buyers agree. be able to wear it like they can a state- ment necklace dresses up the look.” “We don’t see this ment dress,” said Galgano.“That’s the trend dying down at allure of a statement necklace — it can all,” said Erica Russo, be an outfit in and of itself.” Eddie Borgo’s peaked Bloomingdale’s operat- The persisting popularity of the state- link necklace in plated ing vice president, fash- ment necklace, and the mentality that matte rose gold, ion director of fashion it can single-handedly transform an matte gray agate and accessories, fine jewelry outfit, has kept customers willing ground enamel. and cosmetics. to cross to a higher price bracket. “The statement neck- For costume jeweler Carolee, lace is less of a trend than simple pendant necklaces it is a staple that keeps evolv- start at $40 wholesale, while ing. If you purchased a bold gold larger, more detailed styles geometric piece in the past, now is run up to $295. Despite the the time to update to high-shine sil- considerable price jump, ver, which looks very chic patterned these statement pieces re- with all the pastels and denim seen in main bestsellers. Swarovski’s necklace with ready-to-wear.” “From the wholesale an Alcantra base, with Russo counted graphic, metal piec- side, we love this trend embroidery, filigree metal es and semiprecious bibs among the because they do tend and crystal mesh, and gold store’s most popular styles season after to be the higher price and clear crystals. season. Ultimately, however, the most point,” said Jill Maier, important aspect that customer’s are vice president of design looking for is something “unique.” and merchandising. “It “What’s fun about [a statement has helped [our] fashion necklace] is that there is no rules,” jewelry sales in general said Tara Malkovich, creative direc- that it has lasted as long Swarovski’s creative director tor of costume jewelry studio Sequin as it has.” Nathalie Colin shared the same New York. “There’s such a vast land- Lisa Salzer, designer of perspective. “People are looking for scape. It’s a moment for more innova- Lulu Frost, concurred, report- that piece that will create a statement tive costume jewelry.” ing that statement necklaces ac- look,” she said. “It can twist the look of Pamela Love summed it up: counted for 34 percent of all Lulu a sweatshirt.” “Statement necklaces will always have Frost sales in 2013. Additionally, The recent runway trends toward a place in fashion and jewelry. My love Yosca stated that necklaces are “eas- a more relaxed, minimalist style have is making statement pieces. That’s ily 50 percent” of his brand’s overall only boosted buyers’ and customers’ in- what I do.”

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10 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 24, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDACCESSORIES N

Christian Bale, Amy Adams and Bradley Cooper don retro Seventies styles in “American Hustle.”

As Hollywood gears up for the Academy Awards on Sunday, WWD takes a look back at some of 2013’s Big-Screen Shades best on-screen sunglasses. By Lauren McCarthy ARIE FOX/©FOCUS FEATURES/COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION; “GREAT EVERETT COLLECTION; “GREAT ARIE FOX/©FOCUS FEATURES/COURTESY “RUSH” BY JAAP BUITENDIJK/©UNIVERSAL/COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTIO JAAP BUITENDIJK/©UNIVERSAL/COURTESY “RUSH” BY

As the transgender Rayon in “Dallas Buyers Club,” Jared Leto matches pink frames with similarly hued nail polish. PRODUCTIONS LLC/COLUMBIA PICTURES; “DALLAS BUYERS” BY ANNE M PICTURES; “DALLASPRODUCTIONS LLC/COLUMBIA BUYERS” BY JASMINE” BY SONY PICTURES CLASSICS/COURTESY EVERETTJASMINE” BY COLLECTION;

Leonardo DiCaprio dons classic wayfarers for a poolside bash in “The Wolf of Wall Street.”

Elizabeth Debicki does Twenties tortoiseshell style as Jordan Baker in “The Great Gatsby.” VERETT COLLECTION; “AMERICAN HUSTLE” BY FRANÇOIS DUHAMEL/ANNAPURNA FRANÇOIS HUSTLE” BY VERETT COLLECTION; “AMERICAN

As the moody matriarch of “August: Osage County,” Meryl Streep A disgraced and displaced New Yorker in San Francisco, As Formula One racer James Hunt in “Rush,” Chris covers up in dark shades. Cate Blanchett hides behind Prada lenses in “Blue Jasmine.” Hemsworth wears Carrera’s Speedway aviator frames. GATSBY” BY WARNER BROS. PICTURES/COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION; “AUGUST: OSAGE” BY CLAIRE FOLGER © 2013 THE WEINSTEIN CO.; “BLUE “BLUE CLAIRE FOLGER © 2013 THE WEINSTEIN CO.; OSAGE” BY EVERETT COLLECTION; “AUGUST: BROS. PICTURES/COURTESY WARNER BY GATSBY” “WOLF OF WALL STREET” PHOTO BY PARAMOUNT PICTURES/COURTESY E PICTURES/COURTESY PARAMOUNT STREET” PHOTO BY “WOLF OF WALL

CONGRATULATIONS TO REBECCA MINKOFF & CANALI 2014 PARTNERS IN EXCELLENCE

Strong vendor partnerships are key in creating a great experience for our customers—and this year, Rebecca Minkoff and Canali have gone above and beyond. Their collaboration, support and commitment to off ering outstanding quality and style are unparalleled. We’re incredibly excited to have them as this year’s honorees, and can’t wait to see what we do together in the future.