This Tour Spends the Morning on Montjuïc Hill

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The Best 1 Full-Day Tours

COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL 05_165409 ch01.qxp 8/13/07 12:14 PM Page 8

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Previous page: An artist captures La Sagrada Família. 05_165409 ch01.qxp 8/13/07 12:14 PM Page 9

9 The Best his very full day, a “greatest hits” tour, begins with the Rosselló Tbest of Barcelona’s modernista architecture in the morning, is

a followed by a stroll down the epic Rambla, and ends with the high-

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s ç M Sta. María Plaça r v. finish the church—now projected for e P A the modernista movement, Antoni del Pi Catedral Allada i m a Passeig de Pujades

o s 2026, the centennial of Gaudí’s death.

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o seems carved out of nature: It undu- l c f Llotja Parlament de 9am–8pm. Metro: Sagrada Família. VELLA de Mar Catalunya lates like ocean waves along Passeig Plaça Zoo de La Mercè è Plaça 2 ★★★ = La Pedrera. Thought de Gràcia and around the corner onto Merc del Estació Barcelona Antonio Palau by many to be the crowning glory of Provença street. The fascinating roof, olom López de França de C asseig what most people come to see, is P ral) Barceloneta a Lito Ciutadella- (Rond guarded by a set of warrior-like chim- Moll Palau de Mar Vila Ol'impica neys that look like the inspiration for (Museu d'Història d'Espanya Darth Vader. @ 1 hr. Passeig de Grà- Rambla Port de Catalunya) da Mar IMAX cia 92 (at Provença). y 902-40-09-73 Vell or 902-10-12-12 for advance tickets. L'Aquàrium Plaça www.fundaciocaixacatalunya.org. de Barcelona Poeta Boscà Maremàgnum Admission 8 adults, 4.50 students; BARCELONETA also part of ArticketBCN joint admission. Daily 10am–8pm. Closed: Dec 25–26 and Jan 1–6. Tours in English, Platja Barceloneta Spanish, and Catalan. Metro: Diagonal or Provença. MEDITERRANEAN SEA Detailed carving work on La Sagrada Família. 05_165409 ch01.qxp 8/13/07 12:14 PM Page 10

5 ★★ Casa Amatller. Puig i 3 ★★ tapaç 24. The informal Cadafalch, a Gaudí contemporary, tapas bar of acclaimed chef Carles created this brilliant house—the Abellán, who’s in the kitchen at first building on the Manzana de la Comerç 24, is a good-looking pit Discòrdia block of Passeig de stop just off Passeig de Gràcia. Grab Gràcia—in 1900. It has a medieval- a snack or lunch of tantalizing small looking, ceramics-covered facade, Full-Day Tours Full-Day bites with big flavors, and wine and topped by a distinctive Flemish- cava by the glass. Carrer Diputaciò, inspired roof and beautiful carved 269. y 93-488-09-77. $$. stone and ironwork of themes related to the chocolate business

The Best and hobbies of the original owners. 4 ★★★ Casa Batlló. The center- @ 10 min. Passeig de Gràcia 41. piece of the so-called “Block of y 93-488-01-39. Ground floor open Discord,” Casa Batlló owes its to public Mon–Sat 10am–7pm. extraordinary facade to Antoni Gaudí, Metro: Passeig de Gràcia. who completed a remodeling in 1906. Thought to represent the leg- 6 ★ Casa Lleó Morera. This end of Saint George (patron saint of gorgeously ornate corner house Catalonia) and his dragon, the house (1905), the final member of the glimmers with fragments of colorful Block of Discord triumvirate, is the ceramics, while the roof curves like work of Domènech i Montaner, who the blue-green scales of a dragon’s designed El Palau de la Música back, and balconies evoke Carnaval- Catalana and Hospital Sant Pau. esque masks or menacing monster Especially appealing when illumi- jaws. The sinuous interior, full of nated at night, the building is now custom Gaudí-designed furniture, is home to the upscale leather-goods similarly stunning (though tours are purveyor Loewe, which lamentably unexpectedly pricey). @ 30 min. Pas- destroyed a good part of the lower seig de Gràcia, 43. y 93-488-06-66. facade and sumptuous interior Admission 17 adults, 14 children ground floor. Passeig de Gràcia 35. and students, free for children under Except for the Loewe store, the 5. Daily 9am–8pm. Metro: Passeig de house cannot be visited. Metro: Pas- Gràcia. seig de Gràcia.

The “dragon’s back” atop Casa Batlló. 05_165409 ch01.qxp 8/13/07 12:14 PM Page 11

11 The Best in One Day

Fresh flowers are for sale daily on La Rambla.

7 ★★★ = La Rambla. to the left as you face the port, is Barcelona’s great strolling boulevard the Plaça Reial, a grand square with is the centerpiece of life in the Cata- cafes, palm trees, arcades, and lan capital. It throbs with activity, as lampposts designed by modernista crowds at all hours of the day file master Antoni Gaudí. @ 30 min. past vendors, food markets, cafes, Begin at Plaça de Catalunya. Metro: and historic buildings (in the Plaça de Catalunya. evening, the lower parts can get a little sketchy). Subdivided into five 8 ★★★ = Mercat de La separate ramblas, each of different Boquería. Europe’s largest and character and attractions, are a surely most dynamic food market, lively succession of newspaper this Catalan classic is the foundation kiosks, fresh flower stands, bird sell- of Barcelona’s fascination with food. ers, and crowd-friendly human Wander among the more than 300 statues (mimes) in elaborately con- stalls and several small bar/restau- ceived costumes and face paint. rants to see and smell an amazingly About halfway down the boulevard, lively gastronomic scene: the slicing,

Top Attractions: Practical Matters

ArticketBCN Discounts: With a single ticket (www.articketbcn.org) you can visit seven top art museums in Barcelona, including the Museu Picasso, Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (MNAC), Fun- dació Joan Miró, and the Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona (MACBA). Purchase the ticket (20; good for 6 months) at individual museum ticket offices, the Plaça de Catalunya Tourist Information Office, branches of Caixa Catalunya bank, or by phone or online with Tel.Entrada (y 902-101-212 or 34-93-326-29-46 from abroad; www. telentrada.com). 05_165409 ch01.qxp 8/13/07 12:14 PM Page 12

9 ★ Café de la Ópera. A Barcelona institution, this 1929 Belle Epoque cafe facing the Ram- bla and opposite the Teatre Liceu opera house is a low-key, Old-World spot during the day and a bar that

Full-Day Tours Full-Day occasionally gets much more ani- mated late in the evening, especially if groups of fun-loving gay and bohemian patrons stop by. Good pastries and desserts. Rambla 74. The Best y 93-317-75-85. $.

Mercat de La Boquería is a Barcelona institution. 0 ★★ Catedral de Barcelona. The cathedral, the focal point of the dicing, and selling of fresh fish, Old City and a splendid example of meats, produce, and more. Keep Catalan Gothic architecture, was an eye out for bolets and ceps begun in 1298 but largely com- (wild mushrooms), massive prawns, pleted in the 14th and 15th cen- eels, and octopus. The colorful turies. Don’t miss the carved choir bounty is a testament to the fertile and surprisingly lush cloister— region and Catalans’ desire for the a welcome oasis in the midst of the freshest and tastiest foodstuffs avail- Medieval Quarter with its pond, able. @ 30 min. La Rambla 91–101. magnolias, orange and palm trees, y 93-318-25-84; Mon–Sat 8am–8pm; and white geese. @ 45 min. Plaça Metro: Liceu. de la Seu s/n. y 93-315-15-54. Free

Café de la Ópera is an old-school spot, perfect for a midday snack or a late-night drink. 05_165409 ch01.qxp 8/13/07 12:14 PM Page 13

13 The Best in One Day

The Museu Picasso holds 2,500 paintings and sculptures.

admission to cathedral; museum 1. admission first Sun of every month. Elevator to roof: 10:30am–1:30pm Tues–Sat 10am–8pm; Sun and 5–6pm, 2. Global ticket for 10am–3pm. Metro: Jaume I. 1–4:30pm guided visit to museum, @ ★★ Santa María del Mar. A choir, rooftop terraces, and towers, stunning14th-century Catalan 4. Cathedral daily 9am–1pm and Gothic church that’s neither opulent 5–7pm; cloister museum daily and jewel-encrusted nor home to a 10am–1pm and 4–6:30pm. Metro: fabulous art collection. Instead, it’s Jaume I. a simple and solemn, but wholly ! ★★★ Museu Picasso. Pablo inspired, space—the kind of place Picasso was born in southern about which architects understand- Spain, but he spent much of his ably wax poetic, with perfect pro- youth and early creative years in portions in its three soaring naves, Barcelona on his way to becoming wide-spaced columns, and hand- the most famous artist of the 20th some stained-glass windows. @ 15 century. The museum is the largest min. Plaça de Santa María. y 93- collection of his works in his native 215-74-11. Free admission. Mon–Sat country: 2,500 paintings and sculp- 9am–1:30pm and 4:30–8pm, Sun tures, many of them early works, 9am–2pm and 5–8:30pm. Metro: including several from his blue Jaume I. period. The highlight of the collection is Las Meninas, a series of 59 ★★ interpretations of Velázquez’s mas- # La Vinya del Senyor. A terpiece. The Picasso museum hip little wine bar with much-cov- occupies several exquisite 15th- eted tables on a terrace at the lovely century palaces on a lovely pedes- square across from Santa María del trian-only street lined with Mar, it features an excellent selec- medieval mansions. @ 1 hr. Mont- tion of a 100 or so wines from cada 15–23. y 93-319-63-10. www. across Spain, including two dozen museupicasso.bcn.es. Admission 6 by the glass, as well as Spanish ham, salami, and cheeses. Plaça de Santa adults, 4 students and those under y 25, free for children under 16. María, 5. 93-310-33-79. $$. Admission part of ArticketBCN. Free 05_165409 ch01.qxp 8/13/07 12:14 PM Page 14

14 The Best in Two Days

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la Port Vell/Barceloneta de ddelel MMarar . 7 7 Beaches & Port Olímpic Pg 8 Old City Shopping i Tourist Information PlatjaPlatja BarcelonetaBarceloneta 9 Bar del Pi M Metro Station 05_165409 ch01.qxp 8/13/07 12:14 PM Page 15

15 The Best fter a very full first day in Barcelona, it’s time for a more Aleisurely pace. Begin the day in the Gothic Quarter to get a feel Po rtafe for the city’s ancient foundations before moving on to enjoy the rriss Plaça i a P revitalized waterfront, which since the 1992 Olympics has been a in Two Days Palla Av. Catedral Antoni St. Felip Neri Maura popular outdoor leisure destination. Stroll along the harbor, stop for

Plaça H Sta. María Catedral n lunch in the beachside district of Barceloneta, and hit the sands in o C sp a

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s q o EL RAVAL u b m e a dinner at the new harbor, Port Olímpic. START: Metro to Jaume I.

R r e au a ia Generalitat P R V ant S a C L BARRI Gran Teatre Liceu all Plaça del Liceu Ferran St. Jaume GÒTIC Princesa 1 ★★ = 3 ★★ = Unió Conjunt Monumen- Museu Marítim. Marquès Ajuntament Jaume I tal de la Plaça del Rei. In one of Barcelona’s seafaring past comes to rberà A de Ba Lleona rg Plaça Sants Just e n the old quarter’s most handsome life in this rich maritime museum, Reial te

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c Pati e u Palau VELLA i Rei, hemmed in by a remain- sanes, or former Royal a E a s a s r Llimona L t A

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l re u v Traginers at Plaça f city walls, are the fine includes a glorious Te C i el n

d d Arc del Teatre a y r e ó a Correus Museu d’Història de la replica of a massive b Cò S S s Centre d'Art Plaça a nà a e l t Gig s F . (Post Office) d r Ciutat—where the main 16th-century vessel, b s Joaquim r u A Sta. Monica F o a a le s m r p l s m t v a . a Xirau A e Llotja attraction is underground the Galería Reial. The R n r

D c ia r e è de Mar a a Palau erc s walkways over the exposed medieval shipyards, a L le M s c p Plaça s m a March A n Plaça La Mercè Antonio foundations (1st c. B.C. to 7th collection of evocative e Drassanes lavé s lm C Mercè López Anse Plaça Duc c. A.D.) of Barcino, the ancient arches, columns, and Reials sep Jo de Medinaceli olom Cap de Drassanes de C city of the Romans and Visi- vaults that was once at Plaça sseig Barcelona (Museu Marítim) Portal de Pa goths—and the Palau Reial water’s edge and today la Pau Major, an 11th-century royal remains magnificently Moll de Moll de palace and the residence intact, is where the ral) la Fusta a Lito Dipòsit Portrait bust of the Roman (Rond of the Kings of Catalonia kingdom’s ships were Moll de Moll and Aragón. According Emperor Nerva at the Museu constructed, repaired, les Drassanes Golondrinas d'Espanya to legend, King Ferdi- d’Història de la Ciutat. and dry-docked. @ 1 hr. nand and Queen Isabella received Av. de les Drassanes s/n. Dàrsena Rambla Dàrsena Columbus here after he returned y 93-342-99-20. Admission 6 Nacional da Mar del Comerç 1 from the New World. @1 ⁄2 hrs. Plaça adults, 3 children 7–16. Daily Port IMAX Vell del Rei s/n. y 93-315-11-11. www. 10am–7pm. Metro: Drassanes. museuhistoria.bcn.es. Admission 4 L'Aquàrium adults, 2.50 students, free for See relics from Barcelona’s seafaring Maremàgnum de Barcelona Moll de la children under 16. June–Sept Tues– past at the Museu Marítim. Barceloneta Sat 10am–8pm; Oct–May Tues–Sat

ó b 10am–2pm and 4–8pm; year-round r Moll dels o B Sun 10am–3pm. Metro: Jaume I. Pescadors e d n a o World J Trade Moll de 2 ★★★ Mesón del Café. This tiny E ig Balears s e Center c s a s 100-year-old place is probably my r a Jud P ici favorite cafe in the world. Locals drop D in at all hours for superb café con ras ra ana ulle Plaça leche, café solo, cortado, or a mean Esc e la del Mar picardía (coffee with layers of con- . d Pg densed milk and whiskey). And while Platja the coffee’s great, there’s something Barceloneta just ineffably cool about the place. Llibretería, 16. y 93-315-07-54. $. 05_165409 ch01.qxp 8/13/07 12:14 PM Page 16

16 Full-Day Tours Full-Day The Best

View marine life galore at the Barcelona Aquarium.

4 = Monument à Colom. Mar, a stylish drawbridge, is Europe’s Though this monument to Christo- second-largest aquarium, with 21 pher Columbus, built in 1888, has glass tanks featuring different him pointing the wrong direction to marine habitats. The highlight is a the New World, it’s a focal and long, glass-enclosed tunnel, which meeting point, dividing the lower produces the effect of fish, eels, and end of the Rambla from the water- sharks swimming around and over front. An elevator takes visitors wide-eyed visitors. @ 1 hr. Moll d’Es- inside to a mirador for nice panya-Port Vell. y 93-221-74-74. panoramic views of the harbor. www.aquariumbcn.com. Admission @ 30 min. Portal de la Pau s/n. 15.50 adults, 12.50 seniors, y 93-302-52-24. Admission 2.40 10.50 children 4–12 and students, adults, 1.40 children 4–12, free for free for children under 4. July–Aug children under 4. June–Sept 9am– daily 9:30am–11pm; Sept–June 8:30pm; Oct–May 10am–6:30pm. Mon–Fri 9:30am–9pm, Sat–Sun: Metro: Drassanes. 9:30am–9:30pm. Metro: Drassanes. 5 = ★★ L’Aquàrium de 6 ★ = Moll de la Fusta/ Barcelona. At Port Vell (the old Port Vell/Barceloneta. Moll de port), and across the Rambla del la Fusta, a very popular place for a paseo, or stroll, is a boardwalk and The Christopher Columbus monument. series of esplanades along Passeig Colom and the old harbor, begin- ning at the Columbus statue at the bottom of La Rambla and stretching to a giant Xavier Mariscal sculpture of a playful crayfish and colorful Pop-Art work, Cap de Barcelona, by the American artist Roy Lichten- stein. Continuing past the harbor and along Passeig Joan de Borbó takes you to Barceloneta, a colorful old beachfront neighborhood that got a controversial makeover for the ’92 Olympics, displacing many longtime residents. It’s still known for its longtime chiringuitos, or informal seafood restaurants, which makes it 05_165409 ch01.qxp 8/13/07 12:14 PM Page 17

17 The Best a perfect place to stop for lunch, especially on weekends. @ 45 min. Metro: Drassanes or Barceloneta. ★★ =

7 Barcelona’s beaches in Two Days & Port Olímpic. It wasn’t long ago that no self-respecting Barcelonan would venture down to the city’s beaches, much less dream of wading into the polluted waters. Preparations for the 1992 Olympics dramatically reopened the city to the Mediter- ranean and cleaned up the urban beaches, vastly improving water qual- ity. Today the long stretches of sand are a playground for city dwellers. The Public sculptures can be found along beaches (platges) are lined with palm Barcelona’s beaches. trees, public sculptures, bars and restaurants, as well as paths for bik- Vía Laetana to La Ribera and El Born, ing, in-line skating, and walking. The site of some of the chicest boutiques first major beach is Barceloneta, fol- in old Barcelona. @ 2 hrs. Metro: lowed to the north by Nova Icària (the Liceu or Jaume I. most popular beach, near the Port Olímpic marina and Vila Olímpica dis- ★ trict), Bogatell, and Mar Bella (an unof- 9 Bar del Pi. On one of the prettiest squares in the old city is ficial nudist beach). @ 2 hrs. Metro: Barceloneta or Ciutadella/Vila one of the finest spots in town to Olímpica. linger at an outdoor cafe. Of the several cafes clustered around the 8 Old City shopping. Dozens of square, Bar del Pi is the most tradi- fashion boutiques, bars, and souvenir tional. People-watching opportuni- shops line bustling, pedestrian-only ties abound, and on weekends Carrer Ferran, while dark, atmos- artists and artisans set up booths in pheric Carrer Banys Nous is home to the plaza. Plaça Sant Josep Oriol. some of the city’s best antique shops. y 93-302-21-23. $. Shopaholics should continue across

Xavier Mariscal’s crayfish at the Moll de la Fusta. 05_165409 ch01.qxp8/13/0712:14PMPage18

The Best Full-Day Tours 18

The Best

Comte d'Urgelld'Urgell Comte C Comte

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19 The Best

e his tour spends the morning on Montjuïc hill before making

M a brief stop in the Eixample district for one big modernista high-

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m d L i r religious art. Its medieval collection, emblematic architecture from a

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s a e t L C i which includes Romanesque works across Spain, re-creating individual a

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n icons, and treasured frescoes are it well-meaning kitsch, it’s a fun and

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d r displayed in apses, just as they were instructive place for families to visit

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d v o in the country churches where they and a great introduction to the

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o o tes L R t e rre Vil t Ca ila larroel C were found. Other highlights are country’s architectural diversity for

n malia i V a A s a

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. paintings by some of Spain’s most those who haven’t had the opportu-

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l r a C u

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l Velázquez, Ribera, and Zurbarán. and see its whitewashed Andalusian

a n o

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c l @ 1 ⁄ hr. Palau Nacional, Parc de alleyways, small-town plazas, or

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www.mnac.es. Admission 8.50 Marqués de Comillas s/n (Parc de B e o X m E

u a I S o P r

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v d r ça L r i M 7–21, free for children 6 and under poble-espanyol.com. Admission A

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a a and first Thurs of month (also part of 7.50 adults, 5.50 children 7–12,

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s a M A ó C a i i R ic e T s t ArticketBCN joint admission). Tempo- free for children under 7; 15 family

M ça C o n

l p a l le Ex a N

. P rary exhibits: 4.20 . Tues–Sat ticket; 2 guided tours. Mon 9am– al D

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a ó a A r c i c

i i P e 10am–7pm; Sun 10am–2:30pm. 8pm; Tues–Thurs 9am–2am; Fri–Sat i c r X r . R e g v a M G a èn

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a s o . a r l P E t u P S E 05_165409 ch01.qxp 8/13/07 12:14 PM Page 20

Metro: Espanya, then 10-min walk y 93-443-94-70. Admission 7.50 uphill, or bus 13 or 50 from Plaça adults, 4 students, free for children de Espanya. under 14. Also part of ArticketBCN joint admission. July–Sept Tues–Wed and Fri–Sat 10am–8pm; Oct–June 3 La Font de Gat. This resur- Tues–Wed and Fri–Sat 10am–7pm; rected modernista cafe and restau- year-round Thurs 10am–9:30pm and Full-Day Tours Full-Day rant, built by the acclaimed Sun 10am–2:30pm. Bus 50 at Plaça architect Puig i Cadalfach, is d’Espanya; or Funicular de Montjuïc. ensconced in gardens of the Mont- juïc hillside and makes for a relaxing 6 ★★★ El Palau de la Música spot for a coffee or beer, or even Catalana. Domènech i Montaner’s The Best an inexpensive fixed-priced lunch. magnificent 1908 music hall is over- Passeig Sta. Madrona, 28. y 93- the-top ornate but indisputably one 289-04-04. $. of Barcelona’s modernista masterpieces. The relatively sedate exterior is just a tease of what’s inside: a 4 Estadi Olímpic. The setting riotous fantasy of ceramics, colored for the majority of events during glass, and carved pumice, crowned Barcelona’s hosting of the 1992 by an enormous yellow, blue, and Summer Olympics was Montjuïc, green stained-glass dome that looks including the Olympic Stadium, origi- like a swollen raindrop. It’s surely nally built in 1929 for the World’s the most exuberant music hall Fair, and Arata Isozaki’s sleek Palau you’ll ever see. A daytime guided d’Esports Sant Jordi, the indoor sta- tour addresses the architecture, but dium that hosted gymnastics and there’s nothing like experiencing a volleyball events (and now also concert here. @ 1 hr. Carrer de Sant hosts concerts). Nearby are a small Francesc de Paula, 2. y 902-44-28-82 sports museum, Galería Olímpica, or 93-295-72-00 for information. and the outdoor pool and diving http://home.palaumusica.org. pavilion, which overlooks the city Tour 8 adults, 7 students and below. @ 30 min. Av. del Estadi, s/n (Parc de Montjuïc). Metro: Espanya Visit the rooftop terrace and sculpture (then take the escalator from Palau garden at the Fundació Joan Miró. Nacional), bus 50 at Plaça d’Es- panya, or Funicular de Montjuïc. 5 ★★ Fundació Joan Miró. Miró, a resolutely Catalan surrealist painter and sculptor, created a unique, whimsical artistic lan- guage—which to the uninitiated may look like colorful doodles—on his way to becoming one of the 20th century’s most celebrated artists. In minimalist galleries bathed with natural light are several hundred of Miró’s canvases, as well as a wealth of his drawings, graph- ics, and sculptures. A rooftop terrace and sculpture garden provides lovely views of Barcelona below. 1 @ 1 ⁄2 hr. Parc de Montjuïc s/n. 05_165409 ch01.qxp 8/13/07 12:14 PM Page 21

21 The Best in Three Days

Mosaics in the Palau de la Música Catalana.

seniors. Tickets can be bought up to 10am–sunset. Metro: Lesseps (then 1 week in advance from the gift shop a 15-min. walk uphill). Bus: 24 or 28. adjacent to the building. Guided tours 8 ★ = Tibidabo/Parc daily, every half-hour 10am–3:30pm. d’Atraccions. High above Metro: Urquinaona. Barcelona is Tibidabo Mountain, 7 ★★★ = Parc Güell. Yet which has been a getaway destina- another of Gaudí’s signature cre- tion for Barcelonans since the early ations, this open-air park on the out- 1800s for its cooler temperatures skirts of the Eixample district is pure and panoramic views of the city and whimsy. Resembling an idiosyncratic the ocean. The historic Tramvía theme park, it features a mosaic- covered lizard fountain, Hansel and Casa-Museu Gaudí in the Parc Güell. Gretel pagodas, and undulating park benches swathed in broken pieces of ceramics, called trencadis. Gaudí carved part of the park out of a hillside, fashioning a forest of columns like tree trunks. A planned housing development that was never fully realized, the park is home to but a single house, now the Casa-Museu Gaudí, a small museum about Gaudí’s life and work (where the ascetic architect lived while working on the project). On clear days, you can see much of Barcelona laid out beneath your feet, including the spires of La Sagrada Família and the twin towers on the beach. @ 1 hr. Ctra. del Carmel 28. y 93-424-38-09. Free admission to park; Casa-Museu Gaudí 4. Daily 05_165409 ch01.qxp 8/13/07 12:14 PM Page 22

22 Full-Day Tours Full-Day The Best

Tibidabo amusement park.

Blau, or Blue Tram, carries visitors to connects with the Funicular Tibidabo, an overlook with bars and restau- a cable car that completes the trek to rants. Crowning Tibidabo is the odd the top of the mountain (mid-Sept to juxtaposition of a neo-Gothic church the end of Apr, weekends only); and a 1950s-style amusement park, round-trip 3.30. Parc d’Atraccions (the gentle swing ride is spectacular; it seems to sus- 9 ★ Mirablau. This bar perched pend riders over the city). @ 1–2 hrs. on Tibidabo Mountain is sedate Plaça Tibidabo, 3. y 93-211-79-42. in the late afternoon and early Parc d’Atraccions, 22 for unlimited evening, when it’s perfect to relax rides, 11 6 rides, 9 children under and contemplate all of Barcelona, 1.2m (4 ft.), free for children under 3. stretching out to the sea beneath Summer daily noon–10pm; off season you. Plaça Doctor Andreu, 2. Sat–Sun noon–7pm. From Plaza y 93-418-58-79. $$. Kennedy (Metro: Tibidabo), the tram