sign in sign up
<<
Home , Eixample, El Raval, La Ribera, Parc de la Ciutadella, Tibidabo

TOP SIGHTS • LOCAL LIFE • MADE EASY

Anthony Ham

0-prelims-pk-bar3.indd 1 19/01/2012 1:23:37 PM In This Book

16 Need to Know 17 18 Neighbourhoods 19 Arriving in Before You Go Barcelona Getting Around , Need to Your Daily Budget Most visitors arrive at Aeroport del Prat, Barcelona has an efficient and comprehen- Barcelona Passeig de Gràcia & 12km southwest of the city. Some carriers sive public transport system. Apart from & Sarrià L’ (p84) & Parc de (p128) la Ciutadella (p54) Know Budget less than €100 land at Aeroport de Girona–Costa Brava, getting into town from the airport, the Metro Neighbourhoods Explore Modernista 90km north of Barcelona. The main train (www.tmb.net) is the best way for getting Home to FC Barcelona, a treasures, outstanding X Dorm bed €15–20; hostal double €50–70 station is Estació de , 2.5km west of around town. For some outlying areas, the 14th-century monastery, bars and restaurants, La Ribera 00000has a X and Sarrià, Barcelona’s 00000000000000 For more information, see Cheaper three-course lunch menú del día La Rambla. Metro is supplemented by the FGC suburban Park Güell E# and a shopper’s 000000000wonderful00000 market, Worth a Trip loveliest village. 000000000splendid architecture, QuickStart Survival Guide (p171 ). X Plan sightseeing for free admission times rail network (www.fgc.net). Conveniently, paradise to rival Paris. 000000000 000000000plus El Born district – A From Aeroport del Prat both operate under the same ticketing sys- 1Top Sights 1Top Sights 1Top Sights 000000000 000000000Barcelona’s000 byword Currency Midrange €100–200 tem (as do city buses); it works out cheaper La Sagrada Família 00 000000000000 Destination Best Transport Camp Nou & the Museu La Pedrera 00000000000000for cool.000 Euro (€) X Midrange hotel double €75–150; book well to purchase the 10-trip T-10 ticket (€8.25) 00000000000000000 Park Güell del FC Barcelona Casa Batlló 00000000000000000 in advance and check online offers Barri Gòtic A1 Aerobús; rather than buying individual tickets. 00000001Top000 Sights Language Metro (line 3) 0000000 X Lunch and/or dinner in decent restaurant 000 0000Museu Picasso Spanish (Castellano) and Catalan m Metro 000La Sagrada 0000000 A1 Aerobús; 000 E# 0000000Església de Santa Maria X Use discount cards to keep costs down 000 Família 000 Metro (line 3) Seven colour-coded Metro lines criss-cross 0000000 000000 del Mar Visas central Barcelona. Metro stations circle the 0000 000000 La Ribera A1 Aerobús; 0000 000 Top End more than €200 old city (the Barri Gòtic, El Raval and La 0000 000 Generally not required for stays of up to Metro (lines 1, 4) 0000 000 90 days (not at all for members of EU or X Double room in top-end hotel from €150 Ribera), and the Metro leaves you on the La BarcelonetaA1 Aerobús; 1 Schengen countries). Some nationalities X Fine dining for lunch and dinner perimeter of La Barceloneta. There are also La Pedrera E# 11 need a Schengen visa. Metro (lines 1, 4) stations all across L’Eixample. 1 L’Eixample R2 Nord Train Casa Guide L FGC E# 0000 Money Batlló 0000 Barceloneta & the Useful Websites 0000 ATMs widely available. Credit cards A The suburban rail network is particularly 000000 Beaches (p72) accepted in most hotels, restaurants Barcelona Turisme (www.barcelonaturisme From Aeroport de useful for Pedralbes, Sarrià and Gràcia. 0000 0000 Barcelona as it once was Girona–Costa Brava 000000 and shops. .com) The city’s official tourism website. Stations in the town centre include Passeig 00 000000 Museu with an age-old culture Camp Nou & 00 0000La Catedral E# Picasso Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/ de Gràcia and Plaça de Catalunya. 00 000000 of fishing, and an Destination Best Transport the111 Museu del 00 E# # 0000000 00 La Rambla E# E000 0000000 Mobile Phones barcelona) Destination information, hotel 1 00 0000Església000000 de Santa00 altogether shinier new Barri GòticBarcelona Bus; FC Barcelona 00 00000 00000000 Local SIM cards can be used in British/ bookings, traveller forums and more. U Funicular 11E# 00 E# 00000Maria000 000000del Mar0 beach culture. Metro (lines 1, 3) 00 0000 00000000000 Mercat000 de la 000000 000000000000 European and Australian phones. US and Le Cool (lecool.com) Free, offbeat weekly A funicular railway (part of the Metro 000 0000 000000 000000000000 El Raval Barcelona Bus; 000 00 Boqueria00000 000 000000 0000000000000 other travellers’ phones need to be guide to what’s happening in Barcelona. system) connects Paral·lel Metro station to 0000 00000000000 00000 000 000000 0000000000000 set to roaming. Metro (lines 1, 3) the stations up the hill in Montjuïc; these 0000 00000000000 00000 0000000 000000 000000000000 Ruta del (www.rutadelmodern 1 000000000000 0000000 000000 000000000000000 La RiberaBarcelona Bus additional stations are part of the Telefèric 000000000000000 000000 00000000000 Time isme.com) Barcelona’s Modernista heritage. de Montjuïc, require separate tickets, and 000000000 000 000 0000000000 Your keys to under- La BarcelonetaBarcelona Bus; 0000 0000 0000 La Rambla & Barri Western European (GMT/UTC plus one hour, carry you to the summit. The Transbordador Montjuïc & Poble 00 000 Metro (lines 1, 4) 000 or plus two hours during daylight savings). Aeri cable car connects La Barceloneta with Sec (p112) Gòtic (p22) Museu Nacional L’Eixample Barcelona Bus; Montjuïc. Montjuïc is a world # E# Barcelona’s old quarter Advance Planning d’Art de Catalunya E0000 El Raval (p42) Plugs & Adaptors Metro (lines 1, 3) 11 apart, with museums, 00000Fundació combines famous La Three months before Reserve your hotel 11 00000 The former port district 0000000000 Joan Rambla with narrow Plugs have two round pins; the early to increase choice and reduce price; a castle and Olympic 00000000 includes a fabulous 00000000 Miró medieval streets and standard electrical current is 230V. weekends can book out months in advance. relics. Nearby Poble Sec 00000000 market, bars and is a gastronomic hub. monumental buildings. One month before Book a table at Tickets restaurants, stunning art Tipping At the Airports 1Top Sights 1Top Sights tapas bar (www.ticketsbar.es) or Cinc galleries and an unlikely Small change (€1 per person in restaurants) Aeroport del Prat Terminal 1 and 2 arrivals 1111 Sentits restaurant (www.cincsentits.com). Museu Nacional d’Art de Gaudí confection. La Rambla and rounding up (in taxis) is usually su՗ cient. halls have ATMs and tourist information. 1111 Catalunya 1111 1Top Sights La Catedral standing the city – One week before Book online entry to La 000 1111 Aeroport de Girona–Costa Brava The 000 Fundació Joan Miró Mercat de Sagrada Família (www.sagradafamilia.org) 000 1111 baggage-claim and arrivals halls have ATMs. 000 1111 to avoid queues on arrival. 000 we help you decide what to do and how Need to Know Neighbourhoods to do it Tips for a What’s where smooth trip

86 Passeig de Gràcia & L’Eixample La Pedrera 87 90 Passeig de Gràcia & L’Eixample Shopping in the Quadrat d’Or 91

y Top Tips 2 The New Wave since the 19th century, and many of the classic pieces here have a Á ighty, Mod- Don’t Miss f If you’re visiting more You could spend an entire day along ernista inÁ uence. Bagués backs it up Top Sights Barcelona museums, Local Life Passeig de Gràcia but detour for a The Facade with service that can be haughty, but consider buying moment to Lurdes Bergada (www. La Pedrera The natural world was one of the most enduring Shopping in the Quadrat d’Or Articket BCN (see the lurdesbergada.es; 112; owes much to old-school courtesies. inÁ uences on Gaudí’s work, and La Pedrera’s undu- boxed text, p 49 ) for h10.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; mDiagonal), One of the Passeig de Gràcia’s, and indeed o Map p 92 , D2 lating grey stone facade evokes a cliՖ -face sculpted admission to this and a boutique run by mother-and-son 6 Fine Foods Barcelona’s, most beautiful Modernista struc- by waves and wind. The wave eՖ ect is emphasised Fine foods and drink are as important http://obrasocial.caixa six other museums designer team Lurdes Bergada and tures, La Pedrera – o՗ cially called Casa Milà by elaborate wrought-iron balconies that bring to 0 to L’Eixample’s shoppers as fashion, catalunya.cat for €25. 0 Syngman Cucala. The classy men’s and after its owners, but nicknamed La Pedrera (The a mind seaweed washed up on the shore. The lasting e g which is why While visitors to d e women’s fashions use natural À bres and Colmado Quilez (Rambla Stone Quarry) by bemused locals who watched f La Pedrera is C Carrer de Provença impression is of a building on the verge of motion. L’Eixample do the sights, rs Av Diagonal have attracted a cult following. de Catalunya 63; h9am-2pm & 4.30-8.30pm Gaudí build it from 1905 to 1910 – is in the top extremely popular: be Cò 261-265 locals go shopping in the Mon-Sat; mPasseig de Gràcia) is a local tier of Gaudí’s achievements. Conceived as an waiting when the doors C de Pau Claris Explore The Roof Terrace Quadrat d’Or, the grid ¡# 3 A Pastry Stop institution. Wines, quality canned apartment block, its approach to space and to adult/child/concession open at 9am to avoid the Gaudí’s blend of mischievous form with ingenious of streets either side of Av DiagonalDiagonal .# Time for a break. And few pastry shops seafood and traditional Catalan foods light and its blurring of the dividing line between €14/free/10, audioguide €4 worst of the crowds. functionality is evident on the roof, with its clus- the Passeig de Gràcia. #þ1 have such a long-established pedigree ideal for taking home climb the walls decoration and functionality will leave you h9am-8pm ters of chimneys, stairwells and ventilation towers f Given the choice, take This is Barcelona at its as behind the iconic window display. la ió Mauri (www.pasteleriasmauri.com; Rambla gasping at the sheer originality of it all. #þ e c that rise and fall atop the structure’s wave-like most fashion- and design- 2 d ¡# L'EIXAMPLE the detailed (not gen- ep Diagonal h m g c de Catalunya 102; 8am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am- Diagonal conscious, which also de- P n contours like giant medieval knights. Some are eral) audioguide, which o P 7 Fine Wines C g 3pm Sun; mDiagonal). The plush interior scribes a large proportion d unadorned; others are decorated with trencadís costs the same and #û3 e It only opens in the afternoon during G is capped by an ornate fresco dating (ceramic fragments) and even broken cava bottles. oՖ ers far better value of L’Eixample’s residents. r GAVIN GOUGH/LONELY PLANET IMAGES © àc back to Mauri’s À rst days in 1929. Its the week, but since 1981 Xampany The deep patios, which Gaudí treated like interior for money. All the big names are L'ESQUERRA ia C del Rosselló croissants and feather-light ensaïmadas (Carrer de València 200; h4.30-10pm Mon- here, alongside boutiques DE L'EIXAMPLE facades, Á ood the apartments with natural light. Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; mPasseig de Gràcia), a of local designers who (sweet buns) are near perfect. ¡# Provença a Passeig de Gràcia ‘cathedral of cava’, has established 5 Take a Break capture the essence of ia Espai Gaudí c #þ4 ¡# itself as one of the area’s best-loved Barcelona cool. £# 4 Father of Fashion With 270 gracious parabolic arches, the Espai èn Passeig Just north of La Ped- Val Once the outÀ tter of James Bond and shops. There are few more Catalan Barcelona C de Mallorc e de Gràcia Gaudí (Gaudí Space) feels like the fossilised ribcage Cd gifts to take home than cava, and this rera, across the Avenida Cd #þ5 now focusing on design, Armand Basi of some giant prehistoric beast. At one point, 12 C d'En eB Diagonal, Bar Mut (p 98 ) 1 #þ6 (www.armandbasi.com; Passeig de Gràcia 49; is an Aladdin’s cave of the stuՖ , with Designer Barcelona alm Ra arches come together to form a palm tree. Watch is a lovely spot for tapas r bottles crammed high into every cha- It has a reputation as the ic Gra es m h10am-8pm Mon-Sat; mPasseig de Gràcia) b out also for the strange optical eՖ ect of the mirror and a glass of wine la d is one of Barcelonaƶs most respected otic corner of this dimly lit locale. essence of innovative Cata- n Cd ad ragó e and hanging sculpture on the east side. Otherwise, as you plan your next C lan design and the frame o t a fashion designers. This stylish stalwart 'A s n tal Espai Gaudí oՖ ers an overview of Gaudí’s work. rib C d'A e Modernista excursion. C un also does slinky numbers for women: 8 Chill Down in which Spanish design a e u d ya Plaça del ll uptown suits in black, evening wear, Cosmo (www.galeriacosmo.com; Carrer An excellent choice evolves, but Vinçon (www. Doctor se La Pedrera Apartment n Letamendi o ó leather jackets and accessories. d’Enric Granados 3; h10am-10pm Mon-Thu, for lunch across the vincon.com; Passeig de Gràcia l C Below the attic, the apartment (El Pis de la e m #þ7 d utaci noon-2am Fri-Sat, noon-10pm Sun; Univer- other side of the 96; h10am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; C p Pedrera) spreads out. Bathed in evenly distributed Di is a groovy space with psyche- has its roots in 5 Modernista Jewellery sitat; W) light, twisting and turning with the building’s Passeig de Gràcia, mDiagonal) C es This is more than just any old jewellery delic colours, high white walls for The best things to L’Eixample and is a neigh- d C de la n rippling distribution, the labyrinthine apartment Petit Comite (p98 ) e #þ M #8 ala store. The boys from Bagués (www. exhibitions, and a nice selection of teas, does a classy three- bourhood icon. Pamper u is Gaudí’s vision of domestic bliss. In the ultimate n Universitat pastries and snacks. Set on a pleasant ta ts Cat bagues.com; Passeig de Gràcia 41; mPasseig course meal for €18. your aesthetic senses with n nod to Á exible living, the apartment has no load- e de Barcelona pedestrian strip, it’s perfect for an a journey through its r de Gràcia) have been chipping away at bearing walls: the interior walls could thus be les Cor evening tipple while admiring the art. household wares. 000000e precious stones and moulding metal moved to suit the inhabitants’ needs. 000000Universitat e0 200 m 000000¡# # 0 0.1 miles 000000 Chimneys on the roof of La Pedrera (Casa Milà) 000000Gran Via d 000000 see and do, 000000 neighbourhood by Top Sights Local Life neighbourhood Make the most The insider's city of your visit

138 The Old City in a Day 139 158 Best Museums Best Museums 159

1 remnants of Roman Sundays, it’s a place to west through this tide walls, and continue linger. of people and perform- Best Walks The Museu Picasso (p 56 ) is best visited on to the Gothic ers before launching oՖ Best JEAN-PIERRE LESCOURRET/LONELY PLANET IMAGES © The Old City early in the morning, centrepiece of Barce- 5 Plaça Reial its western shore into lona’s oldest quarter, El Raval. Museums in a Day making it the ideal La More lanes lead DIEGO LEZAMA/LONELY PLANET IMAGES © place to begin your Catedral (p28 ), which through the heart of the walk. Apart from the is at once sombre and a old city to the grand- 7 Museu d’Art With such a rich heritage of art and architecture, 2 The Walk early Picasso paintings gilded study in excess. est of old Barcelona’s Contemporani de few cities rival Barcelona’s array of world-class that so distinguish this squares, the Plaça Reial Barcelona museums. As always in , the line between a The triptych of El Raval, the Barri Gòtic and La Ribera 4 is where Barcelona was born. La Ribera, with El Born, museum, the medieval Plaça de Sant (p 34), which is ringed Cutting-edge galleries museum and an art gallery is deliciously blurred; is quintessential Barcelona – an icon of cool but still mansions that make up Josep Oriol by bars distinguished are a Barcelona spec- in this section we’ve concentrated on traditional home to attractions of more enduring progeny. The the gallery have been Few squares punctuate by lamp posts of early iality, and the Museu museums that take you for a ride through the Barri Gòtic is the old city’s heart and soul, while El beautifully preserved. the Barri Gòtic, but the Gaudí vintage. d’Art Contemporani de history of and beyond, with detours Raval isn’t so much pulling itself up by its bootstraps Plaça de Sant Josep Barcelona (p 49 ) is one into the world of art. Worth The Best as changing its boots for a pair of Manolo Blahniks. 2 Oriol is À lled with 6 La Rambla of the À nest. Fusing CosmoCaixa science museum Església de This walk takes you through these areas, past fabu- charm. Watched over by a modern collection, Best Journeys a Trip Santa Maria del Mar La Rambla (p 24) cuts History Museums Kids (and many lous museums, monuments to antiquity, irresistible Església de Santa Maria stunning contem porary Through History Carrer de Montcada, a through old Barcelona, You could easily spend weeks working your way Museu d’Arqueologia de Museu Frederic Marès grown ups) can’t La Rambla and intimate little squares en route. del Pi (p 34), ringed with architecture and the Museu d’Història typical old-city lane – transporting a river of Catalunya Catalonia’s Outstanding repository of resist the interac- old shops and bars, and shell of an ancient through Barcelona’s museums. At journey’s end, de Barcelona Rich Start Museu Picasso; mJaume I narrow, boisterous and people from L’Eixample if you’ve visited them all, you’ll have been on an prehistory, Visigoths and Spanish sculpture, with tive displays and home to painters and monastery, this place is Roman ruins and Gothic Romans. (p123 ) Romanesque art the star. leading somewhere to the sea. Walk north- extraordinarily diverse journey through the history experiments in Finish Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona; farmers markets on Barcelona in a nutshell. architecture. (p34 ) (p34 ) interesting – passes Museu Etnològic mUniversitat of Barcelona and wider Catalan region. The story of CosmoCaixa (www. some À ne tapas bars, 00000 00 00000 Museu d’Història de A typically international Museu Gaudí Step inside 00000 00 0000 the layers of civilisation that have accumulated here, obrasocial.lacaixa.es; 00000000000000 a 00 0000 Catalunya A wonderfully collection of items. Gaudí’s mind and work- Length 1.5km; one hour then emerges at the 00000000000000 ll 0000 0000 one atop the other, including the Jews and Romans, 000000000la Plaça00000 e 00 adult/child/child under 000000000de 00000 n 00 composed ode to Cata- (p125 ) shop with drawings and lovely, shaded Passeig a000000000at 00000a 00 00 is a series of intriguing tales that add depth and nd 000000000sit de000000000000t 00 0000000 lan history. (p78 ) 6 & senior €3/2/free; del Born (on your left) Ro v000000000er Catalunya000000000000 LA0000000000 Refugi 307 Revisit scale models. (p106 ) 5 Take a Break Uni 0000000000000000Fon 0000000000 context to your experience of the city. This being a h10am-8pm Tue-Sun; 000000000e0000000 RIBERA0000000000 Sinagoga Major A with the 00000 000000000d 0000000 0000000000 wartime Barcelona in Casa-Museu Gaudí Església de 00000 0000000000000000 000 00000a port city par excellence, the story also leads further g60 or dFGC Av Art deco and bohemian, Cafè de L’Òpera (p 37 ) 00000 0000000000000C 0000000 Plaça 000 00000 rare outpost of Jewish of Barcelona Santa Maria del Mar 00000¡# 000000000000000000000000 000 es this evocative network of Gaudí’s one-time home in , a bright, has had a front-row seat on La Rambla since 1929 00000 Cd0000e Pe 00000000000000000000 d'Antoni 000 000 aÀ eld, with discourses on Barcelona’s sea faring past ) 00000 0000lai00000000000000000000 000 a 000 Barcelona. (p35 ) BARRI i air-raid shelters. (p125 ) Park Güell. (p111 ) (p 58) on your right. 00000Universitat 00000000000 00000Maura r 000 that take in everything from Spain’s former colonies playful science mu- and is the perfect old-city rest stop. 00000 00000000000GÒTIC 00000 ò 000#1 00000 00000000000 00000C B M A pinnacle of Catalan la C dels T 0000 00000de a o C Museu Marítim Barce- Museu-Monestir de Museu de Ceràmica seum housed in a allers0000000000 00000Ta la l n d to ethnological exhibits from cultures all across the el 0000000000 00000000p 000 e C de la Princt e z M i d c lona as Mediterranean Gothic, this church n 0000000000 00000000000ne000 ad Pedralbes Window on Spanish ceramics in Modernista building o o C 000000 00000000000 000ria C a world. From football to ceramics to civil war air-raid 000d n 000000 00000000000 000000 000ll ta d C d'en Xuc0000 00000000000#3 000000 00 port city in the Gothic is all grace, light and 000a l e 0000 la 000 000 0000 shelters, there’s nowhere, it seems, that Barcelona’s monastic life and mar- all their glory, includ- at the foot of the KRZYSZTOF DYDYNSKI/LONELY PLANET IMAGES © e e sa C d V000000000 g 0000 d ris 000¡# e 000#002 00 e 000000000 re 0000 C r 00 la000ia l'Ar 0000000 former shipyards. (p 79 ) vellous Gothic cloister. ing works by Miró and elegance within. d 000000000 0000 fe 00 e r gent 000000000 museums can’t take you. Tibidabo hill. Think # ta a e Jaume eria C C de000000000 7 abets r 0000là or l 00 d t 0000000 000000000 lis o 000000000P a 000C e 00 0000000000 (p133 ) Picasso. (p133 ) 000000 t 000000000 e ll 00000000 I Via Lai 000000000000 Museu Barbier-Mueller fossils, physics and in d br 0000000000 P y 00000 000a 000000i 00 000000000000 000000J 0000C d'E l n 00000 000P 000000Ll 00 000000000000 3 000000oaq 0000 e u 00000# 000C 000000 000000000000 The History of Art d’Art Pre-Colombí an Amazonian La Catedral 0000000000 d rt 00000006 000# 000000CIUTAT 000000000 0000 C Fo 0000000 0004 000 et000000000 uí 0000 e 0000000 000 000VELLA ana000000000 The arts loom large over so many aspects of Artefacts from pre- rainforest… Out the church’s south- nC0000 m 00000 000 erran 000 000000000 Best Art History The city’s 0000 ar 00000 000 000000000 0000 C 00000 e F 000 000000000 Barcelona life, and the city’s museums take up Columbian civilisations west door, the Plaça de ost 0000el 0000000 000000000 Museums 0000d 00000000000000 Cd 0000000000000000 of Central and South a C0000EL 000000000 C 00000000000 the story with aplomb. The breadth of subject Santa Maria del Mar is a 0000 000000000 d'A 000000000000000 Museu Nacional d’Art 0000 RAVAL0000 0000000 000vi 00000000000 America. (p64 ) lovely little square, from 0000 tal 0000000u 0000 000nyó 00000000000 matter is extra ordinary, with modern architecture 0000 ospi 0000000a 0000 000 0000000m0000 de Catalunya Breathtak- 0000 0000000P 0000#5 000 0000000000000000000 and Antoni Gaudí recurring themes. But where Museu del FC Barce- which pedestrianised t s s ing Romanesque art and 00000000C de l'H n0000000è 0000 ls r 000000000000000olo 0000 000 00000000 a 0000000u 0000 e le 000000000000000 000 00000000 0000000q à 0000 l 00000000000000000000C Barcelona’s museums excel is in their preserv- lona All the glitter of the Carrer de l’Argenteria 000 00000000 S 0000000r r d e 00000000000000000000000 a peerless portfolio of 000 00000000 e 0000000a e C d 00000000000000000000000e b u d world’s favourite football 00000000 d M0000000r c 00000000000000000000000Port ation of Catalonia’s unimaginably rich history of leads northwest to the 00000000 l 0000000a 00000000000000000000000 Catalan artists. (p114 ) 0 0000000040000 m C e 00000000000000s 00000000000000000000000g de e 0000000000 d 0000000B 0000000E 0000000000000000000P00000 club. (p130 ) Barri Gòtic. Pass the # 0 000000000.2 miles00 e00000000000000 000000000000000000000000Barcelona Romanesque art and architecture. Gothic courtyard in Museu Picasso 0000000000 C d00000000000000 000000000000000000000000 0000000000 000000000 000000000000000000000000 00000000 00 000000 00000000000000000 0 highlights 00000000 00 000000 0000000000000 0 in handy lists Best Walks Barcelona’s Best… to help you plan See the city on foot The best experiences

174 Survival Guide Essential Information 175 176 Survival Guide Essential Information 177

select group of apart- airport via several stops Metro system with seven ¨ The funicular railway Free transport (and 20% ¨ Fire %080 or 085 Feast of the Assumption Telephone ments in La Rambla, to Estació de Sants (main colour-coded lines. runs from the Paral·lel oՖ the Aerobús) and dis- 15 August Tickets & Passes ¨ Police (Mossos Mobile Phones Money-Saving Tips train station, 20 minutes) Metro stop to the Estació El Raval and Sarrià. ¨ Single tickets, good for Targetes are multiple-trip tickets, sold at most counted admission (up to d’Esquadra) %088 Catalonia’s National Day Local SIM cards are ¨ Look out for free entry at sights (see p 163 ). and Passeig de Gràcia Parc Montjuïc and is part 30% oՖ ) or free entry to Friendly Rentals (www. one journey no matter Metro stations, that will save you time and 11 September widely available and can (25 to 30 minutes) in of the Metro ticketing money. A T-10 ticket (€8.25) gives you 10 trips ¨ Order the menú del día for lunch in restaurants friendlyrentals.com) Dozens how many changes you many sights. Cheaper if Money be used in European central Barcelona. system. on the Metro, buses and FGC trains; a T-DIA Festes de la Mercè (see the boxed text, p 38 ). of high-quality options have to make, cost €1.45 you book online, and kids’ and Australian mobile ¨ ¨ (€6.20) gives unlimited travel on all transport Currency Spain uses the 24 September across the city from this A taxi to the centre and can be bought at The Telefèric de versions are available. phones. US travellers will ¨ Buy discount cards (p 175 ). (around 30 minutes, Metro stations. Montjuïc (one-way/return for one day. Two-/three-/four-/five-day tickets euro. Spain’s National Day experienced operator. Ruta del Modernisme need to set their phones ¨ Buy 10-trip travel cards to get around the city depending on tra՗ c) €6.50/9.30; h10am-9pm) for unlimited travel on all transport excluding 12 October ¨ The Metro operates Discounts at Barcelona’s ATMs Widely available; to roaming, or buy a local (see the boxed text, p 175 ). Rent a Flat in costs €25 to €30. runs from the Estació Aerobús cost €11.50/16.50/21/25. from 5am to midnight main Modernista sights. usually a charge on ATM All Saints’ Day mobile and SIM card. Barcelona (www. Parc Montjuïc to the Sunday to Thursday, from See the boxed text, p94 . cash withdrawals abroad. 1 November rentaÁ atinbarcelona.com) Castell de Montjuïc at the Aeroport de 5am to 2am on Friday, the line. Many routes Central Post O՗ ces Phone Codes Main O՗ ce (%93 285 38 speciÀ c site; it’s easily the Flats near La Rambla, La summit of Montjuïc. Student Cards Discounts of Cash Banks and building Constitution Day Girona–Costa and all night Saturday. pass through Plaça de 8.30am-9.30pm Mon-Fri, ¨ International access 32; Plaça de Catalunya 17-S, most useful doorway into Survival Ribera, L’Eixample and up to 50% at many sights. societies oՖ er the best 6 December Brava Catalunya and/or Plaça 8.30am-2pm Sat code %00 underground; h8.30am- the city for travellers with elsewhere. Taxi rates; take your passport. Feast of the Immaculate m ¨ FGC de la Universitat. ¨ % 8.30pm; Catalunya) disabilities. Barcelona Bus (www. y Restaurants lunch Conception 8 December Spain country code 34 y Best for… Trips from Best for… Quick trips ¨ Electricity Credit & Debit Cards barcelonabus.com; one-way/ After 11pm a reduced 1-4pm, dinner 8pm- Aeroport del Prat Taxi Amic (%93 420 80 Plaça de Catalunya to across town outside peak Accepted in most hotels, return €12/21; 70 minutes) network of yellow nitbus- Christmas Day (Terminals 1 & 2 arrivals halls; 88; www.terra.es/personal/ scattered attractions such hour. midnight Useful Numbers os (night buses) runs restaurants and shops. 25 December h runs hourly services to as Tibidabo, Sarrià and ¨ International directory 9am-9pm) taxiamic, in Spanish) A spe- ¨ Taxis are reasonably until 3am or 5am. All nit- Shops 10am-2pm & May need to show pass- Barcelona’s Estació Nord. Pedralbes. St Stephen’s Day (Box- enquiries %11825 cialised taxi service for priced and charges are bus routes pass through 4.30-7.30pm or 5-8pm port or other photo ID. Barri Gòtic (Carrer de la Arriving in ing Day) 26 December ¨ Ciutat 2; h8.30am-8.30pm those with disabilities. ¨ The FGC (www.fgc.net) posted on passenger- Plaça de Catalunya and International operator & Barcelona suburban rail network side windows inside. most run every 30 to 45 Discount Cards Public Holidays reverse charges (collect): Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat, 9am- The trip from Plaça de Safe Travel Europe %1008; outside 2pm Sun; mJaume I) Visas goes numerous places minutes. Single tickets The following (except stu- Many shops will be closed Catalunya to Park Güell y Top Tip Stay well clear Europe %1005 that the Metro doesn’t. cost €1.45 and can be dent cards) are available and many attractions Estació de Sants (h8am- EU & Schengen Coun- costs about €10. of the ball-and-three-cups Aeroport del Prat It operates on a similar purchased on the bus. at tourist o՗ ces: operate on reduced hours 8pm; mSants Estació) tries No visa required. Guide y Getting (trileros) brigade on La Top Tip For the schedule and a one-way ¨ You can call a taxi on the following dates: Rambla. This is always a Tourist best way to get to your ticket costs €1.45. ArticketBCN See the Australia, Canada, Around (%93 225 00 00, 93 300 11 set-up and you will lose Information accommodation, see p 17 . boxed text, p 49 . New Year’s Day 1 January Travellers with Israel, Japan, New 00, 93 303 30 33, 93 322 22 your money (and maybe The OÀ cina d’Informació Disabilities Zealand and the USA ¨ A1 Aerobús (one-way/ Funicular 22) or Á ag one down in ArqueoTicket Entry to Epiphany 6 January have your pockets emptied de Turisme de Accessible Barcelona No visa required for tour- return €5.30/9.15; h6am- y Best For… Getting to the street. À ve museums (Museu Good Friday Late March/ as you watch the game). (www.barcelonaturisme. y Best for… Barcelona’s ist visits of up to 90 days. 1am) from airport to and around Montjuïc. Essential Marítim, Museu d’Història Petty crime and theft, with com) has o՗ ces around (www.accessiblebarcelona. Metro is almost always April Plaça de Catalunya (30 de Barcelona, Museu 230V/50Hz tourists the prey of choice, the city: com) Craig Grimes, a T6 Other Countries Check the best choice, with the ¨ Cable cars connect La Bus Easter Monday Late to 40 minutes) via Plaça Information d’Arqueologia de Cata- is a problem in Barcelona, paraplegic and traveller, Tips and tricks most extensive network Barceloneta and Poble y Best for… Night trips with a Spanish embassy d’Espanya and Gran Via de March/April although most visitors created this Barcelona- of lines and stations Sec with Montjuïc. and those for whom lunya, Museu Egipci and or consulate. Catalanes every throughout the city. Metro stairs are impass- Business Hours Museu Barbier- Mueller Labour Day 1 May encounter few problems. six to 15 minutes. Buy Exceptions include travel ¨ The Transbordador able (people with prams, Take particular care on Standard business hours d’Art Pre-Colombí). Dilluns de Pasqua tickets on the bus or from to Montjuïc and Sarrià. Aeri (one-way/return €10/15; travellers with disabilities). Emergency airport trains, the Metro are as follows, unless Grande (day after Pente- h11am-8pm) service Artco Ticket See the (especially around stops machines at the airport. ¨ ¨ % ¨ Ambulance %061 Transports Metropoli- TMB buses ( 010; speciÀ ed in the reviews: boxed text, p 97 . cost Sunday) May/June popular with tourists) and ¨ runs from the Torre R2 Nord train (one-way tans de Barcelona (TMB; www.tmb.net) run from ¨ EU Standard Emer- de Sant Sebastià (La Banks 8.30am-2pm Mon- Barcelona Card (www. Feast of St John the La Rambla. €3.15; h5.42am-11.38pm) %010; www.tmb.net) runs a 5am or 6am to as late gency Number %112 Barceloneta) to Miramar Fri; some also 4-7pm Thu barcelonacard.com; 2/3/4/5 Baptist 24 June every half-hour from as 11pm, depending on for a seamless, (Montjuïc). and 9am-1pm Sat days €27/33/37.50/44.50) hassle-free city Getting Around Essential Information experience Travel like a local Including where to stay

0-prelims-pk-bar3.indd 2 19/01/2012 1:24:10 PM Our selection of the city’s best places to Lonely Planet’s eat, drink and experience: Barcelona 1 Sights Lonely Planet Pocket Guides are designed to get you 5 Eating straight to the heart of the city. Inside you’ll find all the 6 Drinking must-see sights, plus tips to make your visit to each one 3 Entertainment really memorable. We’ve split the city into easy-to-navigate 7 Shopping neighbourhood s and provided clear maps so you’ll find your way around with ease. Our These symbols give you the vital expert authors have searched information for each listing: out the best of the city: walks, food, nightlife and shopping, % c Telephone Numbers Family-Friendly to name a few. Because you h Opening Hours # Pet-Friendly want to explore, our ‘Local Life’ p Parking g Bus n Nonsmoking f Ferry pages will take you to some i Internet Access m Metro of the most exciting areas to W Wi-Fi Access b Subway experience the real Barcelona. v Vegetarian Selection j Cable Car And of course you’ll find all E English-Language d Train the practical tips you need for Menu a smooth trip: itineraries for short visits, how to get around, and how much to tip the guy who serves you a drink at the Find each listing quickly on maps end of a long day’s exploration. for each neighbourhood : It’s your guarantee of a

28 The Louvre & Les Halles £# 00000000 ¡# 00000000 really great experience. 00000000 £# 00000000 A B 00000000C D 0000000019 00000000#ý 00000000R 00000000A 00000000ub 00000000e 1 e00000000r 0000000000R Tronchet 00000000 t b Bd Malesherbes0000000000 00000000Opéra Bd des Italiens n ri 0000000000 00000000 o 0000000000 c ¡#

0000000000 m S

0000000000 a 0000000000 r 0000000000#þ Rd R s Pl de e G 0000000000 eS pucin RduQ 0000000000 èze s Ca l'Opéra e 000000000025 e d 0000000000 Bd d uatr 0000000000Madeleine A eS R Bar Hemingway 0000000000 eptembre R de y v 0000000000¡# e R 0000000000 ln D de ¡# 0000000000 s au 0000000000 o x n 0000000000 C V i o u l Quatre 0000000000 a a ' p R O 0000000000 DuphotR u P Septembrep 0000000000 ppé c la Our Promise i in é e e r Map p233,p23 B2 s d 8e a 16 2 16 R llon 6 e 0000000#û R GaillonGai l R Cambon 0000000 Dan a 000000000000000 iell R y 000000000000000 e C in 000000000000000000000 as o 0000000000000000000000000000 ano R nt 0000000000000000000000000 va e 00000000000000000000000000PPlace00aceacce R R 00000000000000#æ00000000000 LegendLegend has it that Hemi d 6 R u F 00000000000000000000000VenVendôme000endômeenendôme d You can trust our travel infor- 000000000 000000000000000000000 e 000000000 au 000000000000000000 s Pe 000000000¡# bouo 0000000000000000 tits 000000000 ur 00000000000000 Ch R St-Flor g e a 000000000 0000000S 000 r m 000000000 é p Concorde Rd t- è 000000000 H h i R 000000000 u M o c é d r V 000000000¡# n r r selself,f, wielding a machine ont Thab o o il 000000000 ré a u ¡# R le 000000000000000000000000000000000000000005 n o #ï T d M h 00000000000000000000000000000000000000000ab o S é o 00000000000000000000000000000000000000000#æ oro u r R r H a PyramidesPyra es è 00000000000000000000000000000000000000000d - l mation because Lonely Planet 300000000000000000000000000000000de t s c 000000000Jeu de e e 00000000000000000000000000000000000000000Riv r R S e d 00000000000000000000000000000000000000000oli û# h 00000000000000000000000000000000000000000Paume 14 g l #þ R c 00000000000000000000000000000000000000000o lliberateiberate this ttimber-pani A i ère 00000000000000000000000000000000000000000' A R 242 u 00000000000000000000000000000000000000000- v n 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 23 t ie RdR #þ MolièreMoli l 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 S 00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 dde R e 00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 ¡# R e h e 00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 TTuileries ic l e 000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 ' O Ric authors visit the places we 000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 e 000 l e 00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 l p 000 uphoupholsteredlstered barb during W 000000000æ#000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 e d 000000 000000000000000000000000000000001 00000000000000000 é s d 000000000 PPlldes ddees h 00000 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 c rra R 00000 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 a 00000 #ý 21 3 Jardindinndn ded desess Pyramidesyramidesyryramideraammim 'E 000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 l 222200000 #æ e 000000000000000000000000000000000TuTuileries i lle e r iiess 00000 0000000000000000 d #ý000 00000000000000000000000000000000000 000000 0000000000r 000 00000000000000000000000000000000000000 0000000 000 R 00000 000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 000ie 0000 tthehe RitzRitz’s’s showpieceshow is a 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 00000000n R n 1er16 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 0000000 0000 write about, each and every 4 00000000000000000000000000000000Jardindesde 0000000000000 0000000000o 0000000 00000000000000000000000000000000Tuileriesiesies 00000000000000000000000000000m JardinJa dinn du 00000000000000Pl d 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000e 00000000000PalaisPalaalaislais RoRRoyalRoyoyayalya –000000¡#000000000 L CarrouselC useell 000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 00000000000l0 0000000000000 000000000000PalaP 00000000000000000000000000000000000000000 000000000000a 00000000000000000MuséeMuséséeséée0e duu 00000000000000000 000000000000000000000000000000000000000 00000000000000r 0 00000000000000000000000000 00000000000RoyRRo 000000000000000000000000000000000 0000 0000000000000000é 0000000000000000000LouvreLou00vrevre 0000000 photosphotos takentaken bby Papa an 00000000000000000000000000000000000000 00000n 000000000000000000000000000000000 0000 00000000000000000000000000000000Q de 0000000000 000000é0 000000 000000000000000000000000000000000000 000000000000000000000000000000000000000 00000000G 000000000000000000000000000000000000Plld du0 0000000000#û R 000000000000000000000000000000000000000s TuT0000000 00000000 000000000000000000000000000000000000 0000000000000000000

0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000u00iilile000000 00000u 000000000000000000000000000000CarrouselCaC000000000000a0000000000000el000000000000000000000000000000000 edition. We never accept

0000000000000000000000000000000000000e0000000000000d0 000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000

0000000000000000000000000000000000riesie00000000000v 0000000000000000000000000000Musée0000000000us00000000000000000du 00000000000000000000000000000000000000s0000000A 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000 0000000 1 1 1 1 00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000001 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000 000000000000000000000000000000000000000LLouvre00000000000000000000000000000000 mamartinisrtinis iinn ttown.o Dress 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000Cour For reviews see 000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 00000000000000000000 00000000000000000000000000 000000000000000000000000NapoléoNaNap 1 Top Sights p104 PoPontnt 00000000000000000000000000000000000000000 00000 freebies for positive coverage, 5 0000000Q 000000000000000000000000000000000000 000 Royal d000000000000000000u 00000000000 Sights p112 00000000Lo 000000000000 (www.ritzparis.com;(www.ritzparis.co Hôtel Rit 00000000uvrvr 000 Eating p113 00000000e 0000000Pontn du Drinking p114 Carrousselr Entertainment p115 0000000Vendôme,Vendôme, 1er;1er; h6.30pm-2a so you can rely on us to tell it Shopping p116 0000000 0000000Place 00000006 #æ like it is. 0000000KongKVendôong 0000000

0-prelims-pk-bar3.indd 3 19/01/2012 1:24:15 PM QuickStart Explore Guide 7 Barcelona 21 Barcelona Top Sights ...... 8 22 La Rambla & Barri Gòtic Barcelona Local Life ...... 12 42 El Raval Barcelona Day Planner ...... 14 La Ribera Need to Know ...... 16 54 Barcelona & Neighbourhoods ...... 18 72 Barceloneta & the Beaches

84 Passeig de Gràcia & L’Eixample

112 Montjuïc & Poble Sec

128 Camp Nou, Pedralbes & Sarrià

Worth a Trip: La Sagrada Família ...... 104 Village Life in Gràcia ...... 108 Park Güell ...... 110

0-prelims-pk-bar3.indd 4 19/01/2012 1:24:38 PM The Best of Survival Barcelona 137 Guide 171 Barcelona’s Best Walks Before You Go ...... 172 The Old City in a Day ...... 138 Arriving in Barcelona ...... 174 Modernista Barcelona ...... 140 Getting Around ...... 174 Food-Lovers’ Barcelona ...... 142 Essential Information ...... 175 Language ...... 178 Barcelona’s Best… Restaurants ...... 144 Shopping ...... 146 Tapas ...... 148 Architecture ...... 150 Art & Design ...... 152 Parks & Beaches ...... 154 Sports & Activities ...... 156 Views ...... 157 Museums ...... 158 For Kids ...... 160 Tours ...... 162 For Free ...... 163 Bars ...... 164 Cafes...... 166 Clubs ...... 168 Gay & Lesbian ...... 169 Live Music & Entertainment ...... 170

0-prelims-pk-bar3.indd 5 19/01/2012 1:24:39 PM -quickstart-pk-bar3.indd 6 17/01/2012 10:41:51 AM 7 QuickStart Guide Barcelona Top Sights ...... 8 Barcelona Local Life ...... 12 Barcelona Day Planner ...... 14 Need to Know ...... 16 Barcelona Neighbourhoods ...... 18

Welcome to Barcelona

Barcelona could just be the coolest city on earth. Style conscious and always in fashion, this is a place where the avant-garde and the traditional collide daily with spectacu- lar results. It’s where Gaudí meets Gothic, where food is life in all its delicious complexity, and where the arts (including the art of having a good time) always take centre stage.

Diners sitting outdoors on Plaça Reial (p34 ) BARBARA BOENSCH/IMAGEBROKER ©

-quickstart-pk-bar3.indd 7 17/01/2012 10:42:02 AM 192

Our Writer

Anthony Ham In 2001 Anthony fell irretrievably in love with Spain and returned a year later on a one-way ticket, with not a word of Spanish and knowing scarcely a person in the country. A decade later, he lives in Madrid with his Spanish wife, Marina, and their two daughters, speaks Spanish fluently and still adores just about everything about his adopted home. A regular visitor to Barcelona, he sometimes has to pinch himself to believe just how wonderfully life has turned out. When not writing for Lonely Planet, Anthony writes about and photographs Spain, Africa and the Middle East for newspapers and magazines around the world.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Although the authors and Lonely Planet ABN 36 005 607 983 have taken all reasonable care in preparing 3rd edition – May 2012 this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 74179 716 9 accuracy or completeness of its content © Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 2012 and, to the maximum extent permitted, 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 disclaim all liability arising from its use. Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

3-author-pk-bar3.indd 192 18/01/2012 2:56:32 PM