Erosion and Landforms
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1 the Influence of Groyne Fields and Other Hard Defences on the Shoreline Configuration
1 The Influence of Groyne Fields and Other Hard Defences on the Shoreline Configuration 2 of Soft Cliff Coastlines 3 4 Sally Brown1*, Max Barton1, Robert J Nicholls1 5 6 1. Faculty of Engineering and the Environment, University of Southampton, 7 University Road, Highfield, Southampton, UK. S017 1BJ. 8 9 * Sally Brown ([email protected], Telephone: +44(0)2380 594796). 10 11 Abstract: Building defences, such as groynes, on eroding soft cliff coastlines alters the 12 sediment budget, changing the shoreline configuration adjacent to defences. On the 13 down-drift side, the coastline is set-back. This is often believed to be caused by increased 14 erosion via the ‘terminal groyne effect’, resulting in rapid land loss. This paper examines 15 whether the terminal groyne effect always occurs down-drift post defence construction 16 (i.e. whether or not the retreat rate increases down-drift) through case study analysis. 17 18 Nine cases were analysed at Holderness and Christchurch Bay, England. Seven out of 19 nine sites experienced an increase in down-drift retreat rates. For the two remaining sites, 20 retreat rates remained constant after construction, probably as a sediment deficit already 21 existed prior to construction or as sediment movement was restricted further down-drift. 22 For these two sites, a set-back still evolved, leading to the erroneous perception that a 23 terminal groyne effect had developed. Additionally, seven of the nine sites developed a 24 set back up-drift of the initial groyne, leading to the defended sections of coast acting as 1 25 a hard headland, inhabiting long-shore drift. -
Baja California Sur, Mexico)
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering Article Geomorphology of a Holocene Hurricane Deposit Eroded from Rhyolite Sea Cliffs on Ensenada Almeja (Baja California Sur, Mexico) Markes E. Johnson 1,* , Rigoberto Guardado-France 2, Erlend M. Johnson 3 and Jorge Ledesma-Vázquez 2 1 Geosciences Department, Williams College, Williamstown, MA 01267, USA 2 Facultad de Ciencias Marinas, Universidad Autónoma de Baja California, Ensenada 22800, Baja California, Mexico; [email protected] (R.G.-F.); [email protected] (J.L.-V.) 3 Anthropology Department, Tulane University, New Orleans, LA 70018, USA; [email protected] * Correspondence: [email protected]; Tel.: +1-413-597-2329 Received: 22 May 2019; Accepted: 20 June 2019; Published: 22 June 2019 Abstract: This work advances research on the role of hurricanes in degrading the rocky coastline within Mexico’s Gulf of California, most commonly formed by widespread igneous rocks. Under evaluation is a distinct coastal boulder bed (CBB) derived from banded rhyolite with boulders arrayed in a partial-ring configuration against one side of the headland on Ensenada Almeja (Clam Bay) north of Loreto. Preconditions related to the thickness of rhyolite flows and vertical fissures that intersect the flows at right angles along with the specific gravity of banded rhyolite delimit the size, shape and weight of boulders in the Almeja CBB. Mathematical formulae are applied to calculate the wave height generated by storm surge impacting the headland. The average weight of the 25 largest boulders from a transect nearest the bedrock source amounts to 1200 kg but only 30% of the sample is estimated to exceed a full metric ton in weight. -
Glacial Geomorphology☆ John Menzies, Brock University, St
Glacial Geomorphology☆ John Menzies, Brock University, St. Catharines, ON, Canada © 2018 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved. This is an update of H. French and J. Harbor, 8.1 The Development and History of Glacial and Periglacial Geomorphology, In Treatise on Geomorphology, edited by John F. Shroder, Academic Press, San Diego, 2013. Introduction 1 Glacial Landscapes 3 Advances and Paradigm Shifts 3 Glacial Erosion—Processes 7 Glacial Transport—Processes 10 Glacial Deposition—Processes 10 “Linkages” Within Glacial Geomorphology 10 Future Prospects 11 References 11 Further Reading 16 Introduction The scientific study of glacial processes and landforms formed in front of, beneath and along the margins of valley glaciers, ice sheets and other ice masses on the Earth’s surface, both on land and in ocean basins, constitutes glacial geomorphology. The processes include understanding how ice masses move, erode, transport and deposit sediment. The landforms, developed and shaped by glaciation, supply topographic, morphologic and sedimentologic knowledge regarding these glacial processes. Likewise, glacial geomorphology studies all aspects of the mapped and interpreted effects of glaciation both modern and past on the Earth’s landscapes. The influence of glaciations is only too visible in those landscapes of the world only recently glaciated in the recent past and during the Quaternary. The impact on people living and working in those once glaciated environments is enormous in terms, for example, of groundwater resources, building materials and agriculture. The cities of Glasgow and Boston, their distinctive street patterns and numerable small hills (drumlins) attest to the effect of Quaternary glaciations on urban development and planning. It is problematic to precisely determine when the concept of glaciation first developed. -
Functional Design of Coastal Structures
FUNCTIONALFUNCTIONAL DESIGNDESIGN OFOF David R. Basco, Ph.D, P.E. Director, The Coastal Engineering Center Old Dominion University,Norfolk, Virginia USA 23529 [email protected] DESIGNDESIGN OFOF COASTALCOASTAL STRUCTURESSTRUCTURES •• FunctionFunction ofof structurestructure •• StructuralStructural integrityintegrity •• PhysicalPhysical environmentenvironment •• ConstructionConstruction methodsmethods •• OperationOperation andand maintenancemaintenance OUTLINEOUTLINE •• PlanPlan formform layoutlayout - headland breakwaters - nearshore breakwaters - groin fields • WaveWave runuprunup andand overtopping*overtopping* - breakwaters and revetments (seawalls, beaches not covered here) •• WaveWave reflectionsreflections (materials(materials includedincluded inin notes)notes) * materials from ASCE, Coastal Engineering Short Course, CEM Preview, April 2001 SHORESHORE PARALLELPARALLEL BREAKWATERS:BREAKWATERS: HEADLANDHEADLAND TYPETYPE Design Rules, Hardaway et al. 1991 • Use sand fill to create tombolo for constriction from land • Set berm elevation so tombolo always present at high tide • Set Yg/Lg =• 1.65 for stable shaped beach • Set Ls/Lg = 1 • Always combine with new beach fill • See CEM 2001 V-3 for details KEYKEY VARIABLESVARIABLES FORFOR NEARSHORENEARSHORE BREAKWATERBREAKWATER DESIGNDESIGN Dally and Pope, 1986 Definitions: Y = breakwater distance from nourished shoreline Ls = length of breakwater Lg = gap distance d = water depth at breakwater (MWL) ds = water depth• at breakwater (MWL) •Tombolo formation: Ls/Y = 1.5 to 2 single = 1.5 system •Salient formation: Ls/ = 0.5 to 0.67 = 0.125 long systems (a) (b) Process Parameter Description 1. Bypassing Dg/Hb Depth at groin tip/breaking wave height 2. Permeability • Over-passing Zg (y) Groin elevation across profile, tidal range • Through-passing P(y) Grain permeability across shore • Shore-passing Zb/R Berm elevation/runup elevation 3. Longshore transport Qn/Qg Net rate/gross rate Property Comment 1. Wave angle and wave height Accepted. -
Along the Seashore
Along the seashore 8ljkiXc`X`jk_\nfic[Ëjj`ok_cXi^\jk ZflekipXe[`jjliifle[\[Ypj\X% @k_XjXmXjkZfXjkc`e\Çjfd\*.''' b`cfd\ki\j%8cfe^`kXi\dfi\k_Xe((''' Y\XZ_\jXe[XeldY\if]jklee`e^ eXkliXc]\Xkli\j#jlZ_XjM`Zkfi`XËjKn\cm\ 8gfjkc\jXe[N\jk\ie8ljkiXc`XËj E`e^XcffI\\]%Knffk_\ij#k_\>i\Xk 9Xii`\iI\\]Xe[=iXj\i@jcXe[#Xi\ Nfic[?\i`kX^\8i\Xj% Dfjkf]8ljkiXc`XËjgfglcXk`fec`m\j Zcfj\kfk_\ZfXjkc`e\#gXik`ZlcXicp`ek_\ \XjkXe[jflk_$\Xjk%Fecp(,g\iZ\ekc`m\j dfi\k_XeXe_fliËj[i`m\]ifdk_\j\X% K_\mXip`e^Zc`dXk`ZZfe[`k`fejXe[ \em`ifed\ekjf]8ljkiXc`XËjZfXjkc`e\Xccfn `kkfjlggfikXi`Z_[`m\ij`kpf]jg\Z`\j% @edfi\i\Z\ek[\ZX[\j#jfd\f]k_\j\# Xe[jfd\]iX^`c\ZfXjkXc\em`ifed\ekj# _Xm\Y\\e`eZi\Xj`e^cpk_i\Xk\e\[Yp gfcclk`fe#liYXe[\m\cfgd\ekXe[ kfli`jd% ( 9iX`ejkfidknfZcXjjc`jkj1 X eXkliXcZfXjkXc]\Xkli\jXe[ Y _ldXeXZk`m`k`\jfi[\m\cfgd\ekj kpg`ZXccp]fle[Xcfe^ZfXjkc`e\j% ) K_\cXi^\`dX^\fek_\c\]k`jXj\Zk`fe f]k_\Kn\cm\8gfjkc\j% X N_p[fpflk_`ebk_`jd`^_kY\ • How coastlines are formed jlZ_XgfglcXikfli`jkXkkiXZk`fe6 • In what ways people use coastal environments Y ?fnZflc[kfli`jdgfk\ek`Xccp and some of the effects of this use X]]\Zkk_`jeXkliXc\em`ifed\ek6 • Why pollution is causing serious problems for many * N_Xkjfikjf]gi\jjli\j[fpflk_`eb Australian coastlines _ldXeXZk`m`kpXe[[\m\cfgd\ek • How coastlines can be managed to balance competing d`^_kY\gcXZ`e^fek_\jki\kZ_f] demands in a sustainable way ZfXjkc`e\`ek_\jdXcc\i`dX^\6<ogcX`e% 9eWijWbbWdZ\ehci BOUT 85 PER CENT of Australia’s population lives in coastal towns and cities (more A than 25 per cent within three kilometres of the coast). -
Topic 4A: Coastal Change and Conflict
Topic 4A: Coastal Change and Conflict Headlands and bays: Bays form due Erosional landform: to rapid erosion of soft rock. Once Caves, arches, stacks and stumps: A cave is formed when a formed bays are sheltered by joint/fault in a rock is eroded and deepens. This can then headlands. Headlands are left develop into an arch when two caves form back to back sticking out where the hard rock has from either side of a headland and meet in the middle. resisted erosion. Once formed When an arch collapses, it creates a stack. When a stack however the headlands are more collapses it creates a stump. vulnerable to erosion. These are generally found along discordant coastlines. Depositional landforms: Beaches—can be straight or curved. Curved beaches are formed by waves refracting or bending as they enter a bay. They can be sandy or pebbly (shingle). Shingle beaches are found where cliffs are being eroded. Ridges in a beach parallel to the sea are called berms and the one highest up the beach shows where the highest tide reaches. Exam questions: Spits– narrow projections of sand or shingle 1. Explain how a wave- Erosional landform: that are attached to the land at one end. cut platform is formed Wave-cut platform: A wave-cut notch They extend across a bay or estuary or (4) is created when erosion occurs at the where the coastline changes direction. They 2. Briefly describe how base of a cliff. As undercutting occurs are formed by longshore drift powered by a spits are formed (2) the notch gets bigger. -
The Path of a Pebble- Coastal Processes Activities
The path of a pebble Teachers notes Indulge your natural sense of exploration on the beach by collecting pebbles and recording sound effects. This activity uses the intuitive games that pupils and adults alike will want to play when exploring the beach for the first (or twentieth) time while helping to embed learning about abrasion, attrition, and other processes of coastal change. Location: Barton on Sea or any shingle or pebble beach Timing: 30-45 minutes Age: Key stage 2 Curriculum links: Maths- 3D shapes, volume, estimation, Geography- coastal processes and change Science- rock types and properties, forces. English- poetry, onomatopoeia. (* check tides, weather conditions and safety of access near actively eroding cliffs prior to visit, take throw rope and appropriate emergency numbers, clearly demarcate and explain which areas pupils can explore safely) Learning Outcomes: Estimate the volume of different beach materials and the energy need to move and lift them Discover that shingle is made from mixed materials (rock types, shells, man-made etc.) which have varying degrees of hardness. Understand that harder rocks erode softer rocks creating shingle and pebbles of varying sizes (attrition) Resources needed: Blank postcard sized plain card Coloured pencils Aerial photo of your coastal site from e.g. google earth in two different time periods. The path of a pebble- Teachers notes Part 1- Does the coast stay the same? From a high point, admire the view and point out landmarks (the Solent, Isle of Wight, Bournemouth). Ask pupils to imagine this landscape 10, 100 and 10,000 years ago and suggest reasons it may have changed. -
Introduction to Cabo Pulmo
Introduction to Cabo Pulmo his book is a chronicle of my forty-five-year fascination with an extraordinary five-mile stretch of coastline located along the East Cape of Mexico’s Baja TCalifornia Peninsula. Cabo Pulmo (Cape Lung) is an isolated, fifty-foot-high volcanic beach remnant forming a minor headland (Pulmo Head) at the northern end of this shoreline. The village of Cabo Pulmo is situated a quarter of a mile south of Pulmo Head. The open, two-mile-wide indentation forming Pulmo Bay extends south from the Head, ending abruptly at Frailes Mountain, the easternmost extension of the Baja Peninsula. This massive 800-foot-high mountain headland faces the city of Mazatlan on the Mexican mainland, a hundred and twenty-five miles across the mouth of the Gulf of California. Frailes Mountain’s mile-long run seaward hides most of the East Cape’s coastline south of Cabo Pulmo. On the south side of the mountain lie Frailes Bay and its exotic submarine canyon, an underwater crevasse rising from the offshore depths into the shallows at the southwest corner of the half-mile-long shelter. The major attraction at Cabo Pulmo lies below the waterline immediately in front of Pulmo Village. Only yards off the sandy point at the south end of the original six-dwelling community, the innermost of Pulmo’s hard-coral-covered volcanic reef strands angles offshore (aerial photo on p. 14). This nearly square mile of reefs, the most northerly hard coral complex on the Pacific coast of the Western Hemisphere, has long been a major attraction for Mexican fishermen and market divers. -
Geologic and Physiographic Controls on Bed-Material Yield, Transport, and Channel Morphology for Alluvial and Bedrock Rivers, Western Oregon
Geologic and physiographic controls on bed-material yield, transport, and channel morphology for alluvial and bedrock rivers, western Oregon Jim E. O’Connor1,†, Joseph F. Mangano1,2, Scott W. Anderson1,3, J. Rose Wallick1, Krista L. Jones1, and Mackenzie K. Keith1 1U.S. Geological Survey, Oregon Water Science Center, 2130 SW 5th Avenue, Portland, Oregon 97201, USA 2Department of Geosciences, Colorado State University, Fort Collins, Colorado 80523, USA 3Department of Geography, University of Colorado–Boulder, Boulder, Colorado 80309, USA ABSTRACT geometry and sediment supply. At the scale (Stanford and Ward, 1993; Yarnell et al., 2006). of western Oregon, the physiographic and Most fundamentally, the distinction relates to the The rivers of western Oregon have di- lithologic controls on the balance between balance between bed-material supply and river verse forms and characteristics, with channel bed-material supply and transport capacity transport capacity (Gilbert, 1877, 1914; Howard, substrates ranging from continuous alluvial exert far-reaching infl uence on the distribu- 1980; Whipple, 2004). Rivers in which the long- gravel to bare bedrock. Analysis of several tion of alluvial and nonalluvial channels and term channel transport capacity exceeds bed- measurable morphologic attributes of 24 val- their consequently distinctive morphologies material supply (termed supply- or detachment- ley reaches on 17 rivers provides a basis for and behaviors—differences germane for un- limited rivers) will typically fl ow over bedrock comparing nonalluvial and alluvial channels. derstanding river response to tectonics and beds for part or much of their courses. Where Key differences are that alluvial reaches have environmental perturbations, as well as for supply meets or exceeds transport capacity greater bar area, greater migration rates, and implementing effective restoration and moni- (transport-limited rivers), channel beds are typi- show systematic correlation among variables toring strategies. -
Concept Designs for a Groyne Field on the Far North Nsw Coast
CONCEPT DESIGNS FOR A GROYNE FIELD ON THE FAR NORTH NSW COAST I Coghlan 1, J Carley 1, R Cox 1, E Davey 1, M Blacka 1, J Lofthouse 2 1 Water Research Laboratory (WRL), School of Civil and Environmental Engineering, The University of New South Wales, Manly Vale, NSW 2Tweed Shire Council (TSC), Murwillumbah, NSW Introduction On the open coast of NSW, many options exist to adapt to the hazards of erosion and recession. Perhaps the most common historical approach to counter the erosion and recession hazard is to construct a seawall or revetment to protect the existing foreshore. Other alternatives include the construction of a submerged breakwater, assisted beach recovery and/or beach nourishment. For beaches with a littoral drift imbalance, the construction of one or more groyne structures is a further possibility. This paper presents two different concept designs for a long term groyne field at Kingscliff Beach. Background Information Case Study: Kingscliff Beach Kingscliff Beach, located at the southern end of Wommin Bay on the far north coast of NSW (Figure 1), is a section of the Tweed coastline with built assets at immediate risk from coastal hazards. Ongoing erosion in the last few years has resulted in substantial loss of beach amenity and community land. Storm erosion episodes between 2009 and 2012 severely impacted the Kingscliff Beach Holiday Park (KBHP). This section is also affected by moderate ongoing underlying shoreline recession (WBM, 2001). To manage the Kingscliff Beach foreshore (Figure 2) in the longer term, Tweed Shire -
Caves Form at the Base of Cliffs
The formation of coastal stacks 1. The base of the cliff is subjected to constant erosion from the waves. The main types of coastal erosion are corrosion, attrition, solution and hydraulic action. 2. Over time the joints, faults and bedding planes in the base of the cliff become eroded and larger cracks appear. 3. The cracks become wider and weaker as the erosion continues, causing caves to form. Caves are often found on headlands because wave erosion is particularly strong here. In some cases the roofs of caves may be broken through to form blowholes. 4. When caves develop on opposite sides of a headland they will join up to form a natural arch, as the cliff is being eroded from both sides. 5. The arch continues to be eroded and will gradually become bigger and bigger until just a slim pillar is left, attached to the top of the cliff. 6. The top of the pillar collapses as it can no longer support the weight of the connecting rock, leaving behind a stack. 7. The stack is then continuously eroded at the base by the waves, and eventually will be worn down until only a stump remains. These can become so eroded that they are only visible at low tide. 8. Stumps will eventually be worn away until they remain constantly underwater as areas of shallow water, known as reefs. 9. Over a period of hundreds of years this process will continue until all evidence of past landscapes has been eroded and coastal retreat occurs. Glossary Attrition – particles in the water rubbing against each other and being worn away Bedding Plane - the surface that separates one horizontal layer, or bed, of rock from another Blowhole - a hole in the roof of a cave through which sea water is sprayed up. -
Iceland Straight Baselines
2 STRAIGHT BASELINES: ICELAND Iceland's most recent action altering their system of straight baselines was the issuance on March 11, 1961, of the Regulations Concerning the Fishery Jurisdiction of Iceland. The Regulations were promulgated on April 22, 1961. These 1961 Regulations alter the straight baselines of the preceding decrees of 1952 and 1958. An exchange of notes between Iceland and the United Kingdom, on March 11, 1961, specified the changes that were to be made to the 1958 decree and incorporated in the new 1961 declaration. Iceland claims a four nautical-mile territorial sea and a 12 nautical mile fishery limit, as measured from the straight baselines. Iceland, although a signatory, is not a party to any of the four 1958 Geneva conventions on the law of the sea. These conventions concern the territorial sea and contiguous zone, the high seas, the continental shelf, and fishing and conservation of living resources of the high seas. The pertinent articles of the Regulations concerning the Fishery Jurisdiction of Iceland are as follows: Article 1 The fishery jurisdiction of Iceland shall be delimited 12 nautical miles outside base lines drawn between the following points: 1. Horn 66° 27'4 N Lat. 22° 24'5 W. Long. 2. Asbudarrif 66° 08'1 N 20° 11'2 W. 3. Siglunes 66° 11'9 N 18° 50'1 W. 4. Flatey 66° 10'3 N 17° 50'5 W. 5. Lagey 66° 17'8 N 17° 07'0 W. 6. Raudinupur 66° 30'7 N 16° 32'5 W. 7. Rifstangi 66° 32'3 N 16° 11'9 W 8.