Barrier Islands
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Alexander the Great's Tombolos at Tyre and Alexandria, Eastern Mediterranean ⁎ N
Available online at www.sciencedirect.com Geomorphology 100 (2008) 377–400 www.elsevier.com/locate/geomorph Alexander the Great's tombolos at Tyre and Alexandria, eastern Mediterranean ⁎ N. Marriner a, , J.P. Goiran b, C. Morhange a a CNRS CEREGE UMR 6635, Université Aix-Marseille, Europôle de l'Arbois, BP 80, 13545 Aix-en-Provence cedex 04, France b CNRS MOM Archéorient UMR 5133, 5/7 rue Raulin, 69365 Lyon cedex 07, France Received 25 July 2007; received in revised form 10 January 2008; accepted 11 January 2008 Available online 2 February 2008 Abstract Tyre and Alexandria's coastlines are today characterised by wave-dominated tombolos, peculiar sand isthmuses that link former islands to the adjacent continent. Paradoxically, despite a long history of inquiry into spit and barrier formation, understanding of the dynamics and sedimentary history of tombolos over the Holocene timescale is poor. At Tyre and Alexandria we demonstrate that these rare coastal features are the heritage of a long history of natural morphodynamic forcing and human impacts. In 332 BC, following a protracted seven-month siege of the city, Alexander the Great's engineers cleverly exploited a shallow sublittoral sand bank to seize the island fortress; Tyre's causeway served as a prototype for Alexandria's Heptastadium built a few months later. We report stratigraphic and geomorphological data from the two sand spits, proposing a chronostratigraphic model of tombolo evolution. © 2008 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved. Keywords: Tombolo; Spit; Tyre; Alexandria; Mediterranean; Holocene 1. Introduction Courtaud, 2000; Browder and McNinch, 2006); (2) establishing a typology of shoreline salients and tombolos (Zenkovich, 1967; The term tombolo is used to define a spit of sand or shingle Sanderson and Eliot, 1996); and (3) modelling the geometrical linking an island to the adjacent coast. -
Stability Domains in Barrier Island Dune Systems J
Ecological Complexity 2 (2005) 410–430 http://www.elsevier.com/locate/ecocom Stability domains in barrier island dune systems J. Anthony Stallins * Department of Geography, Florida State University, Room 323 Bellamy Bldg. Tallahassee, FL 32306, USA Received 1 February 2005; received in revised form 12 April 2005; accepted 25 April 2005 Available online 17 October 2005 Abstract Early ecological descriptions of barrier island dune landscapes recognized the importance of biogeomorphic feedbacks and thresholds. However, these dynamics have not been formally linked to complexity theory. In this article, I develop models of dune landscape phase states, or stability domains, based on a synthesis of these prior studies and statistical analyses. Data for these analyses were obtained from compositional and topographic sampling along Sapelo Island, Georgia and South Core Banks, North Carolina. These undeveloped barrier islands are at opposite ends of a regional meteorological gradient in storm- forced overwash disturbance along the southeastern US Atlantic coast. The topography and plant functional group abundances on each island were supportive of earlier studies noting the propensity for distinct self-organizing biogeomorphic feedbacks to emerge along barrier coasts. On South Core Banks, where storm forcings of overwash are more frequent, the recovery processes initiated by burial-tolerant species may reduce topographic resistance to overwash exposure and contagion. On Sapelo Island, a greater abundance of dune-building and burial-intolerant swale species may confer a higher topographic roughness and more resistance to overwash exposure and contagion. Conceptually, the biogeomorphic modifications of overwash forcings on each island perpetuate the habitat conditions and dominant dune plant species in a weak positive feedback. -
NATURAL ENGLAND Geomorphological Advice in Respect of Pagham Spit (West Sussex). April 2013
Pagham Spit Advice 2013 NATURAL ENGLAND Geomorphological Advice in respect of Pagham spit (West Sussex). April 2013 Professor Julian Orford Queen’s University, Belfast Pagham Spit Advice 2013 Natural England Advice Request 1) Could the two recycling operations: i) 2010 and ii) 2012-13 have had a detrimental impact on the site’s functioning and its geomorphological interest? 2) What are the best sources for the current sediment recycling proposals? Note two joint operations to be considered: i) HW erosion at western Pagham and ii) re- armouring of the exposed armoured groyne 3) Is the channel likely to close? 4) What are the possible ways in which the spit might develop, both in the short and longer term? Of these, which is the most likely? 5) Is the rock armour the most effective way to protect the properties? 6) Our current view is that the on-going evolution of the Church Norton spit is a key component in the conservation of the geomorphological interest of the SSSI. Are there other elements we should also be concerned about? Glossary Berm: A constructive wave-built beach face feature generally occurring at the swash reach associated with any particular high tide position. Cumulatively over the neap to spring tidal half-cycle, one berm is realized, associated with highest tidal position. On the falling spring- neap cycle, a series of berms may be realized at each successive lower position achieved by the swash-reach of each successive falling tidal level. Cannibalisation: The tendency for a beach system where the longshore sediment supply has reduced or failed, to use the existing beach sediment as a further source for subsequent longshore sediment transport down-drift. -
Stochastic Dynamics of Barrier Island Elevation
Stochastic dynamics of barrier island elevation Orencio Duran´ Vinenta,1 , Benjamin E. Schafferb, and Ignacio Rodriguez-Iturbea,1 aDepartment of Ocean Engineering, Texas A&M University, College Station, TX 77843-3136; and bDepartment of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Princeton University, Princeton, NJ 08540 Contributed by Ignacio Rodriguez-Iturbe, November 11, 2020 (sent for review June 29, 2020; reviewed by Carlo Camporeale and A. Brad Murray) Barrier islands are ubiquitous coastal features that create low- a marked Poisson process with exponentially distributed marks. energy environments where salt marshes, oyster reefs, and man- The mark of a HWE is defined as the maximum water level groves can develop and survive external stresses. Barrier systems above the beach during the duration of the event and charac- also protect interior coastal communities from storm surges and terizes its size and intensity. This result opens the way for a wave-driven erosion. These functions depend on the existence of probabilistic model of the temporal evolution of the barrier/dune a slowly migrating, vertically stable barrier, a condition tied to elevation, along the lines of the stochastic model of soil moisture the frequency of storm-driven overwashes and thus barrier ele- dynamics (4). The knowledge of the transient probability dis- vation during the storm impact. The balance between erosional tribution function of barrier elevation allows the calculation of and accretional processes behind barrier dynamics is stochastic in after-storm recovery times, overwash probability and frequency, nature and cannot be properly understood with traditional con- and the average overwash transport rate driving the landward tinuous models. Here we develop a master equation describing migration of barriers. -
Natural and Anthropogenic Influences on the Morphodynamics of Sandy and Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches Tiffany Roberts University of South Florida, [email protected]
University of South Florida Scholar Commons Graduate Theses and Dissertations Graduate School January 2012 Natural and Anthropogenic Influences on the Morphodynamics of Sandy and Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches Tiffany Roberts University of South Florida, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: http://scholarcommons.usf.edu/etd Part of the American Studies Commons, Geology Commons, and the Geomorphology Commons Scholar Commons Citation Roberts, Tiffany, "Natural and Anthropogenic Influences on the Morphodynamics of Sandy and Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches" (2012). Graduate Theses and Dissertations. http://scholarcommons.usf.edu/etd/4216 This Dissertation is brought to you for free and open access by the Graduate School at Scholar Commons. It has been accepted for inclusion in Graduate Theses and Dissertations by an authorized administrator of Scholar Commons. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Natural and Anthropogenic Influences on the Morphodynamics of Sandy and Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches by Tiffany M. Roberts A dissertation submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Department of Geology College of Arts and Sciences University of South Florida Major Professor: Ping Wang, Ph.D. Bogdan P. Onac, Ph.D. Nathaniel Plant, Ph.D. Jack A. Puleo, Ph.D. Julie D. Rosati, Ph.D. Date of Approval: July 12, 2012 Keywords: barrier island beaches, beach morphodynamics, beach nourishment, longshore sediment transport, cross-shore sediment transport. Copyright © 2012, Tiffany M. Roberts Dedication To my eternally supportive mother, Darlene, my brother and sister, Trey and Amber, my aunt Pat, and the friends who have been by my side through every challenge and triumph. -
Barrier Island Migration Sea Level Rise and the Future
Barrier Island Migration stable location and absence of historic inlets in this area suggest that barrier migration may not be a These barrier islands retreated or migrated north- continuous process over timescales of a thousand ward as the ocean continued rising. There is some years or less. Further to the east, the barriers are debate about how the barriers actually moved. more mobile and one can find evidence of barrier Some research suggests that the barriers slowly island rollover processes such as old flood shoals drowned in place and then “jumped” or “skipped” in the bay that were associated with inlets that have landward to a new position coinciding with the new opened and closed naturally over the last several position of the shoreline. More recent studies indi- hundred years. cate the islands move in a more continuous process where sand is transported across the island from the ocean to the bay, allowing the island to migrate Sea Level Rise and the Future landward. There are three primary ways that sand can be transported across a barrier island: inlet Along the New York coast, sea level is not only ris- formation, overwash processes and eolian (or wind) ing, the land is also slowly sinking, or subsiding due transport. On Long Island’s south shore, the inlets to geologic processes. The rise in the water level in are actually far more important than either over- relation to the land surface due to the sinking of the washes or the wind in terms of moving sand land- land and the raising of the sea is known as relative ward and driving barrier migration. -
Whale Shark Rhincodon Typus Populations Along the West Coast of the Gulf of California and Implications for Management
Vol. 18: 115–128, 2012 ENDANGERED SPECIES RESEARCH Published online August 16 doi: 10.3354/esr00437 Endang Species Res Whale shark Rhincodon typus populations along the west coast of the Gulf of California and implications for management Dení Ramírez-Macías1,2,*, Abraham Vázquez-Haikin3, Ricardo Vázquez-Juárez1 1Centro de Investigaciones Biológicas del Noroeste, Mar Bermejo 195, Col. Playa Palo de Santa Rita, La Paz, Baja California Sur 23096, Mexico 2Tiburón Ballena México de Conciencia México, Manatí 4802, Col. Esperanza III, La Paz, Baja California Sur 23090, Mexico 3Asociación de Pesca Deportiva y Ecoturismo de Bahía de los Ángeles, Domicilio conocido Bahía de los Ángeles, Baja California 22980, Mexico ABSTRACT: We used photo-identification data collected from 2003 through 2009 to estimate pop- ulation structure, site fidelity, abundance, and movements of this species along the west coast of the Gulf of California to make recommendations for effective conservation and management. Of 251 whale sharks identified from 1784 photographs, 129 sharks were identified in Bahía de Los Ángeles and 125 in Bahía de La Paz. Only juveniles (mostly small) were found in these 2 bays. At Isla Espíritu Santo, we identified adult females; at Gorda Banks we identified 15 pregnant females. High re-sighting rates within and across years provided evidence of site fidelity among juvenile sharks in the 2 bays. Though the juveniles were not permanent residents, they used the areas regularly from year to year. A proportion of the juveniles spent days to a month or more in the coastal waters of the 2 bays before leaving, and periods of over a month outside the study areas before entering the bays again. -
Types and Causes of Beach Erosion Anomaly Areas in the U.S. East Coast Barrier Island System: Stabilized Tidal Inlets
Middle States Geographer, 2007, 40:158-170 TYPES AND CAUSES OF BEACH EROSION ANOMALY AREAS IN THE U.S. EAST COAST BARRIER ISLAND SYSTEM: STABILIZED TIDAL INLETS Francis A. Galgano Jr. Department of Geography and the Environment Villanova University 800 Lancaster Avenue Villanova, Pennsylvania 19085 ABSTRACT: Contemporary research suggests that most U.S. beaches are eroding, and this has become an important political and economic issue because beachfront development is increasingly at risk. In fact, the Heinz Center and Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) estimate that over the next 60 years, beach erosion may claim one out of four homes within 150 meters of the U.S. shoreline. This is significant because approximately 350,000 structures are located with 150 meters of the shoreline in the lower 48 states, not including densely populated coastal cities such as New York and Miami. Along the East Coast, most beaches are eroding at 1 to 1.5 meters per year. However, beach erosion is especially problematic along so-called beach erosion anomaly areas (EAAs) where erosion rates can be as much as five times the rate along adjacent beaches. Identifying and understanding these places is important because property values along U.S. East Coast barrier islands are estimated to be in the trillions of dollars, and the resultant beach erosion may also destroy irreplaceable habitat. There are a number of factors⎯natural and anthropogenic⎯that cause beaches to erode at anomalous rates. This paper will focus on the barrier island system of the U.S. East Coast, classify beach EAAs, and examine beach erosion down drift from stabilized tidal inlets because they are perhaps the most spatially extensive and destructive EAAs. -
Understanding Our Coastal Environment
Preface The South Carolina Beachfront Management Act In the Beginning The Coastal Zone Management Act of 1977 was enacted to protect our coastal resources from unwise development. This legislation served the beaches well during its first decade, but as South Carolina became a more popular tourist destination, it became apparent that the portion of the Act that dealt with beaches was inadequate. As development crept seaward, seawalls and rock revetments proliferated, damaging the public’s beach. In many areas there was no beach left at high tide. In some areas, there was no beach at low tide, either. In 1988 and again in 1990, South Carolina’s legislators took action and amended and strengthened the Coastal Zone Management Act. The resulting Beachfront Management Act protects South Carolina’s sandy shores by increasing the state’s jurisdiction and encouraging development to move landward. South Carolina’s Beachfront Jurisdiction To find the boundaries of this jurisdiction, staff from the Office of Ocean and Coastal Resource Management must first locate the baseline, which is the crest of the primary oceanfront sand dune. Where there are no dunes, the agency uses scientific methods to determine where the natural dune would lie if natural or man-made occurrences had not interfered with nature’s dune building process. The setback line is the most landward boundary and is measured from the baseline. To find the depth of the setback line, the beach’s average annual erosion rate for the past forty years is calculated and multiplied by forty. For example, if the erosion rate is one foot per year, the results will be a setback line that stretches forty feet from the baseline. -
1 the Influence of Groyne Fields and Other Hard Defences on the Shoreline Configuration
1 The Influence of Groyne Fields and Other Hard Defences on the Shoreline Configuration 2 of Soft Cliff Coastlines 3 4 Sally Brown1*, Max Barton1, Robert J Nicholls1 5 6 1. Faculty of Engineering and the Environment, University of Southampton, 7 University Road, Highfield, Southampton, UK. S017 1BJ. 8 9 * Sally Brown ([email protected], Telephone: +44(0)2380 594796). 10 11 Abstract: Building defences, such as groynes, on eroding soft cliff coastlines alters the 12 sediment budget, changing the shoreline configuration adjacent to defences. On the 13 down-drift side, the coastline is set-back. This is often believed to be caused by increased 14 erosion via the ‘terminal groyne effect’, resulting in rapid land loss. This paper examines 15 whether the terminal groyne effect always occurs down-drift post defence construction 16 (i.e. whether or not the retreat rate increases down-drift) through case study analysis. 17 18 Nine cases were analysed at Holderness and Christchurch Bay, England. Seven out of 19 nine sites experienced an increase in down-drift retreat rates. For the two remaining sites, 20 retreat rates remained constant after construction, probably as a sediment deficit already 21 existed prior to construction or as sediment movement was restricted further down-drift. 22 For these two sites, a set-back still evolved, leading to the erroneous perception that a 23 terminal groyne effect had developed. Additionally, seven of the nine sites developed a 24 set back up-drift of the initial groyne, leading to the defended sections of coast acting as 1 25 a hard headland, inhabiting long-shore drift. -
Baja California Sur, Mexico)
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering Article Geomorphology of a Holocene Hurricane Deposit Eroded from Rhyolite Sea Cliffs on Ensenada Almeja (Baja California Sur, Mexico) Markes E. Johnson 1,* , Rigoberto Guardado-France 2, Erlend M. Johnson 3 and Jorge Ledesma-Vázquez 2 1 Geosciences Department, Williams College, Williamstown, MA 01267, USA 2 Facultad de Ciencias Marinas, Universidad Autónoma de Baja California, Ensenada 22800, Baja California, Mexico; [email protected] (R.G.-F.); [email protected] (J.L.-V.) 3 Anthropology Department, Tulane University, New Orleans, LA 70018, USA; [email protected] * Correspondence: [email protected]; Tel.: +1-413-597-2329 Received: 22 May 2019; Accepted: 20 June 2019; Published: 22 June 2019 Abstract: This work advances research on the role of hurricanes in degrading the rocky coastline within Mexico’s Gulf of California, most commonly formed by widespread igneous rocks. Under evaluation is a distinct coastal boulder bed (CBB) derived from banded rhyolite with boulders arrayed in a partial-ring configuration against one side of the headland on Ensenada Almeja (Clam Bay) north of Loreto. Preconditions related to the thickness of rhyolite flows and vertical fissures that intersect the flows at right angles along with the specific gravity of banded rhyolite delimit the size, shape and weight of boulders in the Almeja CBB. Mathematical formulae are applied to calculate the wave height generated by storm surge impacting the headland. The average weight of the 25 largest boulders from a transect nearest the bedrock source amounts to 1200 kg but only 30% of the sample is estimated to exceed a full metric ton in weight. -
A Scientific Forum on the Gulf of Mexico: the Islands in the Stream Concept
Proceedings: Gulf of Mexico Science Forum A Scientific Forum on the Gulf of Mexico: The Islands in the Stream Concept Proceedings of the Forum: 23 January 2008 Keating Education Center Mote Marine Laboratory Sarasota, Florida Proceedings: Gulf of Mexico Science Forum Table of Contents Forward (Ernest Estevez) .............................................................................................................4 Executive Summary.....................................................................................................................6 Acknowledgements ......................................................................................................................9 Organizing Committee ................................................................................................................9 Welcome and Introduction (Kumar Mahadevan and Daniel J. Basta) .....................................10 Introduction to the Forum (Billy D. Causey)...........................................................................12 Summary of Scientific Forum (John Ogden) ...........................................................................14 Panel 1: The Geological Setting...............................................................................................17 Geologic Underpinnings of the “Islands in the Stream”; West Florida Margin (Albert Hine and Stanley Locker)...............................................17 Shelf Edge of the Northwest Gulf of Mexico (Niall Slowey).............................................22