Coastal Processes and Landforms
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Coastal and Marine Ecological Classification Standard (2012)
FGDC-STD-018-2012 Coastal and Marine Ecological Classification Standard Marine and Coastal Spatial Data Subcommittee Federal Geographic Data Committee June, 2012 Federal Geographic Data Committee FGDC-STD-018-2012 Coastal and Marine Ecological Classification Standard, June 2012 ______________________________________________________________________________________ CONTENTS PAGE 1. Introduction ..................................................................................................................... 1 1.1 Objectives ................................................................................................................ 1 1.2 Need ......................................................................................................................... 2 1.3 Scope ........................................................................................................................ 2 1.4 Application ............................................................................................................... 3 1.5 Relationship to Previous FGDC Standards .............................................................. 4 1.6 Development Procedures ......................................................................................... 5 1.7 Guiding Principles ................................................................................................... 7 1.7.1 Build a Scientifically Sound Ecological Classification .................................... 7 1.7.2 Meet the Needs of a Wide Range of Users ...................................................... -
Aerial Rapid Assessment of Hurricane Damages to Northern Gulf Coastal Habitats
8786 ReportScience Title and the Storms: the USGS Response to the Hurricanes of 2005 Chapter Five: Landscape5 Changes The hurricanes of 2005 greatly changed the landscape of the Gulf Coast. The following articles document the initial damage assessment from coastal Alabama to Texas; the change of 217 mi2 of coastal Louisiana to water after Katrina and Rita; estuarine damage to barrier islands of the central Gulf Coast, especially Dauphin Island, Ala., and the Chandeleur Islands, La.; erosion of beaches of western Louisiana after Rita; and the damages and loss of floodplain forest of the Pearl River Basin. Aerial Rapid Assessment of Hurricane Damages to Northern Gulf Coastal Habitats By Thomas C. Michot, Christopher J. Wells, and Paul C. Chadwick Hurricane Katrina made landfall in southeast Louisiana on August 29, 2005, and Hurricane Rita made landfall in southwest Louisiana on September 24, 2005. Scientists from the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) flew aerial surveys to assess damages to natural resources and to lands owned and managed by the U.S. Department of the Interior and other agencies. Flights were made on eight dates from August Introduction 27 through October 4, including one pre-Katrina, three post-Katrina, The USGS National Wetlands and four post-Rita surveys. The Research Center (NWRC) has a geographic area surveyed history of conducting aerial rapid- extended from Galveston, response surveys to assess Tex., to Gulf Shores, hurricane damages along the Ala., and from the Gulf coastal areas of the Gulf of of Mexico shoreline Mexico and Caribbean inland 5–75 mi Sea. Posthurricane (8–121 km). -
1 the Influence of Groyne Fields and Other Hard Defences on the Shoreline Configuration
1 The Influence of Groyne Fields and Other Hard Defences on the Shoreline Configuration 2 of Soft Cliff Coastlines 3 4 Sally Brown1*, Max Barton1, Robert J Nicholls1 5 6 1. Faculty of Engineering and the Environment, University of Southampton, 7 University Road, Highfield, Southampton, UK. S017 1BJ. 8 9 * Sally Brown ([email protected], Telephone: +44(0)2380 594796). 10 11 Abstract: Building defences, such as groynes, on eroding soft cliff coastlines alters the 12 sediment budget, changing the shoreline configuration adjacent to defences. On the 13 down-drift side, the coastline is set-back. This is often believed to be caused by increased 14 erosion via the ‘terminal groyne effect’, resulting in rapid land loss. This paper examines 15 whether the terminal groyne effect always occurs down-drift post defence construction 16 (i.e. whether or not the retreat rate increases down-drift) through case study analysis. 17 18 Nine cases were analysed at Holderness and Christchurch Bay, England. Seven out of 19 nine sites experienced an increase in down-drift retreat rates. For the two remaining sites, 20 retreat rates remained constant after construction, probably as a sediment deficit already 21 existed prior to construction or as sediment movement was restricted further down-drift. 22 For these two sites, a set-back still evolved, leading to the erroneous perception that a 23 terminal groyne effect had developed. Additionally, seven of the nine sites developed a 24 set back up-drift of the initial groyne, leading to the defended sections of coast acting as 1 25 a hard headland, inhabiting long-shore drift. -
Baja California Sur, Mexico)
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering Article Geomorphology of a Holocene Hurricane Deposit Eroded from Rhyolite Sea Cliffs on Ensenada Almeja (Baja California Sur, Mexico) Markes E. Johnson 1,* , Rigoberto Guardado-France 2, Erlend M. Johnson 3 and Jorge Ledesma-Vázquez 2 1 Geosciences Department, Williams College, Williamstown, MA 01267, USA 2 Facultad de Ciencias Marinas, Universidad Autónoma de Baja California, Ensenada 22800, Baja California, Mexico; [email protected] (R.G.-F.); [email protected] (J.L.-V.) 3 Anthropology Department, Tulane University, New Orleans, LA 70018, USA; [email protected] * Correspondence: [email protected]; Tel.: +1-413-597-2329 Received: 22 May 2019; Accepted: 20 June 2019; Published: 22 June 2019 Abstract: This work advances research on the role of hurricanes in degrading the rocky coastline within Mexico’s Gulf of California, most commonly formed by widespread igneous rocks. Under evaluation is a distinct coastal boulder bed (CBB) derived from banded rhyolite with boulders arrayed in a partial-ring configuration against one side of the headland on Ensenada Almeja (Clam Bay) north of Loreto. Preconditions related to the thickness of rhyolite flows and vertical fissures that intersect the flows at right angles along with the specific gravity of banded rhyolite delimit the size, shape and weight of boulders in the Almeja CBB. Mathematical formulae are applied to calculate the wave height generated by storm surge impacting the headland. The average weight of the 25 largest boulders from a transect nearest the bedrock source amounts to 1200 kg but only 30% of the sample is estimated to exceed a full metric ton in weight. -
Glacial Geomorphology☆ John Menzies, Brock University, St
Glacial Geomorphology☆ John Menzies, Brock University, St. Catharines, ON, Canada © 2018 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved. This is an update of H. French and J. Harbor, 8.1 The Development and History of Glacial and Periglacial Geomorphology, In Treatise on Geomorphology, edited by John F. Shroder, Academic Press, San Diego, 2013. Introduction 1 Glacial Landscapes 3 Advances and Paradigm Shifts 3 Glacial Erosion—Processes 7 Glacial Transport—Processes 10 Glacial Deposition—Processes 10 “Linkages” Within Glacial Geomorphology 10 Future Prospects 11 References 11 Further Reading 16 Introduction The scientific study of glacial processes and landforms formed in front of, beneath and along the margins of valley glaciers, ice sheets and other ice masses on the Earth’s surface, both on land and in ocean basins, constitutes glacial geomorphology. The processes include understanding how ice masses move, erode, transport and deposit sediment. The landforms, developed and shaped by glaciation, supply topographic, morphologic and sedimentologic knowledge regarding these glacial processes. Likewise, glacial geomorphology studies all aspects of the mapped and interpreted effects of glaciation both modern and past on the Earth’s landscapes. The influence of glaciations is only too visible in those landscapes of the world only recently glaciated in the recent past and during the Quaternary. The impact on people living and working in those once glaciated environments is enormous in terms, for example, of groundwater resources, building materials and agriculture. The cities of Glasgow and Boston, their distinctive street patterns and numerable small hills (drumlins) attest to the effect of Quaternary glaciations on urban development and planning. It is problematic to precisely determine when the concept of glaciation first developed. -
Functional Design of Coastal Structures
FUNCTIONALFUNCTIONAL DESIGNDESIGN OFOF David R. Basco, Ph.D, P.E. Director, The Coastal Engineering Center Old Dominion University,Norfolk, Virginia USA 23529 [email protected] DESIGNDESIGN OFOF COASTALCOASTAL STRUCTURESSTRUCTURES •• FunctionFunction ofof structurestructure •• StructuralStructural integrityintegrity •• PhysicalPhysical environmentenvironment •• ConstructionConstruction methodsmethods •• OperationOperation andand maintenancemaintenance OUTLINEOUTLINE •• PlanPlan formform layoutlayout - headland breakwaters - nearshore breakwaters - groin fields • WaveWave runuprunup andand overtopping*overtopping* - breakwaters and revetments (seawalls, beaches not covered here) •• WaveWave reflectionsreflections (materials(materials includedincluded inin notes)notes) * materials from ASCE, Coastal Engineering Short Course, CEM Preview, April 2001 SHORESHORE PARALLELPARALLEL BREAKWATERS:BREAKWATERS: HEADLANDHEADLAND TYPETYPE Design Rules, Hardaway et al. 1991 • Use sand fill to create tombolo for constriction from land • Set berm elevation so tombolo always present at high tide • Set Yg/Lg =• 1.65 for stable shaped beach • Set Ls/Lg = 1 • Always combine with new beach fill • See CEM 2001 V-3 for details KEYKEY VARIABLESVARIABLES FORFOR NEARSHORENEARSHORE BREAKWATERBREAKWATER DESIGNDESIGN Dally and Pope, 1986 Definitions: Y = breakwater distance from nourished shoreline Ls = length of breakwater Lg = gap distance d = water depth at breakwater (MWL) ds = water depth• at breakwater (MWL) •Tombolo formation: Ls/Y = 1.5 to 2 single = 1.5 system •Salient formation: Ls/ = 0.5 to 0.67 = 0.125 long systems (a) (b) Process Parameter Description 1. Bypassing Dg/Hb Depth at groin tip/breaking wave height 2. Permeability • Over-passing Zg (y) Groin elevation across profile, tidal range • Through-passing P(y) Grain permeability across shore • Shore-passing Zb/R Berm elevation/runup elevation 3. Longshore transport Qn/Qg Net rate/gross rate Property Comment 1. Wave angle and wave height Accepted. -
Geologic Site of the Month: Tombolo Breach at Popham Beach State Park, Phippsburg, Maine
Tombolo Breach at Popham Beach State Park Maine Geological Survey Maine Geologic Facts and Localities March, 2008 Tombolo Breach at Popham Beach State Park Phippsburg, Maine 43o 44‘ 11.63“ N, 69o 47‘ 46.20“ W Text by Stephen M. Dickson Maine Geological Survey, Department of Agriculture, Conservation & Forestry 1 Tombolo Breach at Popham Beach State Park Maine Geological Survey Introduction Popham Beach State Park is one of the State’s most popular parks. It has a large natural dune system and a long stretch of natural beach composed of fine- to medium-grained sand. During the summer, the park is so popular that the parking lot can fill with cars by mid-morning. Views offshore from the park are scenic with several islands including Seguin Island with its high lighthouse. Aerial 2006 Photo, Aerial Northstar Maine Geological Survey Photo by David A. Hamel of of Hamel A. David by Photo Figure 1. A view of Popham Beach State Park in Phippsburg, Maine taken from an aircraft. The park is bound on the westerly side by the Morse River (not shown in the lower edge of the photo) and on the east by the arcuate Hunnewell Beach that is developed with homes. The Kennebec River forms the eastern limit of the beach and dune system. The Fox Islands are in the lower right corner and opposite the State Park parking lot. Maine Geological Survey, Department of Agriculture, Conservation & Forestry 2 Tombolo Breach at Popham Beach State Park Maine Geological Survey Popham Beach State Park A walk east along the beach from the State Park leads across the developed Hunnewell Beach to the mouth of the Kennebec River about a mile away (Figure 2). -
Along the Seashore
Along the seashore 8ljkiXc`X`jk_\nfic[Ëjj`ok_cXi^\jk ZflekipXe[`jjliifle[\[Ypj\X% @k_XjXmXjkZfXjkc`e\Çjfd\*.''' b`cfd\ki\j%8cfe^`kXi\dfi\k_Xe((''' Y\XZ_\jXe[XeldY\if]jklee`e^ eXkliXc]\Xkli\j#jlZ_XjM`Zkfi`XËjKn\cm\ 8gfjkc\jXe[N\jk\ie8ljkiXc`XËj E`e^XcffI\\]%Knffk_\ij#k_\>i\Xk 9Xii`\iI\\]Xe[=iXj\i@jcXe[#Xi\ Nfic[?\i`kX^\8i\Xj% Dfjkf]8ljkiXc`XËjgfglcXk`fec`m\j Zcfj\kfk_\ZfXjkc`e\#gXik`ZlcXicp`ek_\ \XjkXe[jflk_$\Xjk%Fecp(,g\iZ\ekc`m\j dfi\k_XeXe_fliËj[i`m\]ifdk_\j\X% K_\mXip`e^Zc`dXk`ZZfe[`k`fejXe[ \em`ifed\ekjf]8ljkiXc`XËjZfXjkc`e\Xccfn `kkfjlggfikXi`Z_[`m\ij`kpf]jg\Z`\j% @edfi\i\Z\ek[\ZX[\j#jfd\f]k_\j\# Xe[jfd\]iX^`c\ZfXjkXc\em`ifed\ekj# _Xm\Y\\e`eZi\Xj`e^cpk_i\Xk\e\[Yp gfcclk`fe#liYXe[\m\cfgd\ekXe[ kfli`jd% ( 9iX`ejkfidknfZcXjjc`jkj1 X eXkliXcZfXjkXc]\Xkli\jXe[ Y _ldXeXZk`m`k`\jfi[\m\cfgd\ekj kpg`ZXccp]fle[Xcfe^ZfXjkc`e\j% ) K_\cXi^\`dX^\fek_\c\]k`jXj\Zk`fe f]k_\Kn\cm\8gfjkc\j% X N_p[fpflk_`ebk_`jd`^_kY\ • How coastlines are formed jlZ_XgfglcXikfli`jkXkkiXZk`fe6 • In what ways people use coastal environments Y ?fnZflc[kfli`jdgfk\ek`Xccp and some of the effects of this use X]]\Zkk_`jeXkliXc\em`ifed\ek6 • Why pollution is causing serious problems for many * N_Xkjfikjf]gi\jjli\j[fpflk_`eb Australian coastlines _ldXeXZk`m`kpXe[[\m\cfgd\ek • How coastlines can be managed to balance competing d`^_kY\gcXZ`e^fek_\jki\kZ_f] demands in a sustainable way ZfXjkc`e\`ek_\jdXcc\i`dX^\6<ogcX`e% 9eWijWbbWdZ\ehci BOUT 85 PER CENT of Australia’s population lives in coastal towns and cities (more A than 25 per cent within three kilometres of the coast). -
FISHERMAN BAY PRESERVE: the TOMBOLO Lopez Island
San Juan County Land Bank FISHERMAN BAY PRESERVE: THE TOMBOLO Lopez Island Directions 0 feet 200 400 600 800 1000 From the Lopez ferry landing: Take Ferry Road heading south. At 2.2 miles, the road name changes to Fisherman Bay NORTH Road. Continue past Lopez Village and along Fisherman Bay, turning right onto Bayshore The Tombolo Preserve Road at 6.1 miles. Pass Otis Perkins at 6.8 miles. The parking pullout is located on the right at 7.3 miles from start. From Lopez Village: From the water tower at Village Park, go east on Lopez Road for .25 miles. Turn right onto Fisherman Bay Road and continue along Fisherman Bay. At 2.0 miles, turn right onto Bayshore Road. Pass Otis Perkins County Park at 2.7 miles. The parking pullout is located on the right at 3.2 miles from start. Otis Perkins Land Bank Preserve County Park Trails San Juan County Parks Road shore Bay Parking A tombolo is a long, narrow bar of sediment connecting an island to a When you visit: larger island or mainland. Just seven acres in size, the Land Bank’s • Stay on designated trails. • Daytime and pedestrian use only. Tombolo Preserve protects more than half a mile of shoreline. Its outer, • Leash your dog. western beach of sand and cobble is a local favorite for walking and • Take nothing. wildlife watching, while its inner, eastern side protects mudflats and tidal • Leave nothing. ponds. There is a parking pullout at the northern end of the preserve, with space for three cars. -
Topic 4A: Coastal Change and Conflict
Topic 4A: Coastal Change and Conflict Headlands and bays: Bays form due Erosional landform: to rapid erosion of soft rock. Once Caves, arches, stacks and stumps: A cave is formed when a formed bays are sheltered by joint/fault in a rock is eroded and deepens. This can then headlands. Headlands are left develop into an arch when two caves form back to back sticking out where the hard rock has from either side of a headland and meet in the middle. resisted erosion. Once formed When an arch collapses, it creates a stack. When a stack however the headlands are more collapses it creates a stump. vulnerable to erosion. These are generally found along discordant coastlines. Depositional landforms: Beaches—can be straight or curved. Curved beaches are formed by waves refracting or bending as they enter a bay. They can be sandy or pebbly (shingle). Shingle beaches are found where cliffs are being eroded. Ridges in a beach parallel to the sea are called berms and the one highest up the beach shows where the highest tide reaches. Exam questions: Spits– narrow projections of sand or shingle 1. Explain how a wave- Erosional landform: that are attached to the land at one end. cut platform is formed Wave-cut platform: A wave-cut notch They extend across a bay or estuary or (4) is created when erosion occurs at the where the coastline changes direction. They 2. Briefly describe how base of a cliff. As undercutting occurs are formed by longshore drift powered by a spits are formed (2) the notch gets bigger. -
Exposed at Low Tide on Expansive Tidal Flats Such As the Fraser River Delta Where, Because of Their Large Size (100 M Or More Fr
carried seaward along the rill fans out as it reaches a flat portion of the beach much the same as strean-borne sediments fan out into a valley. Rill marks are apparently produced by accumulations of percolated water that seep out ofthe beach at low tide. Sand domes are small mounds in an otherwise level beach raised up by alr trapped within the sand. The air in this case is forced out as the wave swash percolates into initially dry sand. Small holes rcscm- bling those made by sandhoppers are produced when air escapcs through wet sand in the swash zonc. Other types of ripples commonly seen on beaches include oscillatory ripples, formed by the back and forth motions under waves, and current ripples, produced hy uiidirectional flow such as longshore currents, rip cur- rents, or tidal currents. The former have symmetrical crests and rounded troughs oriented parallel to the shoreline (that is, at right angles to the drection of the waves), whereas the latter are asymmetrical with gentle up-current slopes that give way to steeper slopes on the downstream side of the flow (Fig. 2.23). Current ripples are typically oriented at an angle to the shorchnc as cur- : rents tend to align themselves parallel to the coast; where rip currents lead out to sea, however, ripples tend in the F~G.2.24. Oscillatory ripple marks at 90 m depth off west coat direction of the coastline Both types of ripples arc often Vancomrr Islad, photographed from Pixa IVsubmcrsiblc, June 1977. P4pplcs 30 cm high. about 30-60 cm apart, and oriented parallel to coast. -
Geospatial Modeling of the Tombolo Phenomenon in Sopot Using Integrated Geodetic and Hydrographic Measurement Methods
remote sensing Article Geospatial Modeling of the Tombolo Phenomenon in Sopot using Integrated Geodetic and Hydrographic Measurement Methods Mariusz Specht 1,* , Cezary Specht 2 , Janusz Mindykowski 3 , Paweł D ˛abrowski 2, Romuald Ma´snicki 3 and Artur Makar 4 1 Department of Transport and Logistics, Gdynia Maritime University, Morska 81-87, 81-225 Gdynia, Poland 2 Department of Geodesy and Oceanography, Gdynia Maritime University, Morska 81-87, 81-225 Gdynia, Poland; [email protected] (C.S.); [email protected] (P.D.) 3 Department of Marine Electrical Power Engineering, Gdynia Maritime University, Morska 81-87, 81-225 Gdynia, Poland; [email protected] (J.M.); [email protected] (R.M.) 4 Department of Navigation and Hydrography, Polish Naval Academy, Smidowicza´ 69, 81-127 Gdynia, Poland; [email protected] * Correspondence: [email protected] Received: 31 January 2020; Accepted: 21 February 2020; Published: 23 February 2020 Abstract: A tombolo is a narrow belt connecting a mainland with an island lying near to the shore, formed as a result of sand and gravel being deposited by sea currents, most often created as a result of natural phenomena. However, it can also be caused by human activity, as is the case with the Sopot pier—a town located on the southern coast of the Baltic Sea in northern Poland (' = 54◦26’N, λ = 018◦33’E). As a result, the seafloor rises constantly and the shoreline moves towards the sea. Moreover, there is the additional disturbing phenomenon consisting of the rising seafloor sand covering over the waterbody’s vegetation and threatening the city's spa character.