ILALBA Otero Pedrayo Vand Its Parador a Hilltop Fort Crowned by a Church, a Road Bordered by Stone Crosses and Birch Trees
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The Dance of the Sun and the Water Flowers “...the Galician worked the land in a tireless effort to shape the landscape... He combined the desire to see the world with his love for his native land…” ILALBA Otero Pedrayo VAnd Its Parador A hilltop fort crowned by a church, a road bordered by stone crosses and birch trees. Sorcery flowing from the springs, held in the stones, a history of the dancing of suns and flowers in the water. This is A Terra Chá, the plain of Vilalba. This is how it has always been, and probably always will be, from its remotest origins, jealously guarded and enveloped in mystery, miracles, and menace. When the first Galician tribes learned to cut stone here, they were sedentary shepherds. At that time, everything belonged to the group, and each person owned only what was necessary: food and tools, land and animals. But these people already knew about castes and aristocrats by the time the Romans arrived. They had their rules for living in society and even used the death penalty to punish theft. Much of this era can be seen in the Museum of Prehistory and Archeology in Vilalba. When the Romans came here to build Lugo’s walls and defenses, they settled in the forts which were already there and, on the whole, treated the life and culture of the people who inhabited them with respect. This was so true that the customs of the primitive Galicians came to predominate over those of the Romans. The latter dedicated their efforts to public works and road building – around the Via Antonina – and the peaceful exploitation of the metallurgic riches of the land, gold and tin in particular. There was little change until the arrival of the Gospel. Records of the time state that these people accepted baptism with joy and perseverance, although always in the shadow of the errant spirit of the Druids who have never quite left them. The great preacher, Prisciliano, was followed and worshipped by the Christians and his influence would be long and deeply felt. However, he was finally condemned and beheaded for not making a significant enough distinction between the new cult and old sorcery. These lands of a thousand rivers, sometimes called Mesopotamia, received unexpected invasions, such as a brutal pillaging by Witerico, king of the Swabians. He is thought to have established the nearby parish church and thermal baths in Guitiriz. There were also the visits of the pious Christians from Brittany who came in search of refuge and peace as they fled from the Anglo-Saxons. This was in the 5th century in Pastoriza, near the source of the Miño River: “Come with me to Pastoriza to find someone to love because the girls of Lugo don’t know how to return my affections” Today, these are lands where the cattle runs free and old customs such as A Rapa das Bestas (The Shaving of the Beasts – horses in this case) can still be seen on occasions. The Moors did not have an opportunity to make much of an impact here, restrained as they were by the early VILALBA AND ITS PARADOR 1 attempts at reconquest undertaken by Alfonso I, Alfonso II, and Alfonso remains of the Miracle have been faithfully preserved in the glass III, who managed to hold back the Sarracen fury. Ordoño II, who earned containers that the Catholic Monarchs gave to the monastery when the title of King of Galicia, worked hard to repopulate these and other passing through on their way to Compostela. These were troubled times, lands with the help of prelates and monasteries. The miracle of Santiago the times of the love-hate relationship between Bishop Gelmírez, emperor de Compostela also had its of all western Compostela, and part to play. the Queen Doña Urraca. The nobility was constantly battling, It was at about this time and Hermandino brotherhoods that Galicia took on its rebelled against dissolute eternal qualities. These lands noblemen. were inhabited by witches and apostolic miracles. The The medieval gloom was modern pilgrim may well finally enlightened by the have taken the Route of the Catholic Monarchs’ unifying Miracle to reach the Parador. light of modernity. Then came the Imperial Spain of the It happened high up on conquistadors. According to the Mount O Cebreiro, where chronicler Otero Pedrayo, these there are still pallozas, Celtic were days of a “silent and dark dwellings giving one a picture Galicia: it did not have the of life before the Romans. It period of mystic and warlike was 1300, at the Monastery of exaltation which Castile did, O Cebreiro: the bread turned and was not even represented at to flesh and the wine to blood the monarchs’ court. A strange to teach a disbelieving cleric a town, Zamora, raised its voice... lesson, and to console a peasant who would make a superhuman effort to The pilgrimages of Saint James continue, but their ancient charm celebrate Mass every day, in spite of the harsh winter weather. The diminishes...” The castle of Captain Andrade “...the Miño, shepherd of rivers, calls the people to its side...” A. Iglesias Alvariño T oday’s traveler has the privilege of staying in the home of the illustrious Andrade family, heirs of the Gran Capitán, Don Fernando de Andrade, hero of the wars of Naples. But the origins of the fortress, like those of the town, go back much further. At the time of the Council of Lugo, in the 6th century, these lands already belonged to the Count of Montenegro, and the young town was called Santa María de Montenegro. Since the early Middle Ages, Vilalba had been an important trading town and a strategic center, originally populated by the Roman legions. Until the mid-14th century, the town and fortress were owned by the extremely powerful Castro family, the noble Castilian Counts of Lemos. Shortly afterwards, around 1360, Pedro I, known as a just king to some and a cruel monarch to many, granted the castle and the lordship of the town to Fernán Pérez de Andrade as a reward for his exploits in war. This great captain would leave his mark by building seven churches, seven hospitals, seven monasteries, and seven bridges. 2 VILALBA AND ITS PARADOR Probably for this reason, he is remembered as Andrade “the Good,” Another member of the Andrade family – Pedro Fernández de although this was mainly to distinguish him from his nephew and heir, Castro – was Cervantes’s protector, and the second part of Don Nuño, who was rightly known as “O Mao” (“the Bad”). He was so bad Quixote is duly dedicated to him in recognition of this fact. This may that the Hermandiño groups have been a wise premonition felt compelled to disobey and of the fertility of Galician rebel against him. These lands which were to give birth villains were finally wiped out to such excellent literary art by virtue of the notable and talent as that of Rosalía strategists Pedro Madruga and de Castro, Valle Inclán, Álvaro Pardo de Cela. The latter was Cunqueiro, and Camilo José known as El Mariscal (The Cela. Marshall), in recognition of his frustrated vocation as a But as time passed and liberator. He is so loved by modernity approached, the tradition that it is said that light of the nobility started to when he was beheaded, his fade. The jealous monarchs of head rolled down miraculously the 18th century ordered all proclaiming his faith with the the fortresses they found in words, “I believe, I believe, I their way to be destroyed, believe.” perhaps rightly, under the pretext of ending abuses and The Andrade family were men of arms and, as people would say promoting liberty. And finally, the Nineteenth Courts of Cádiz with due pride and recognition, men of the noose and knife. According determined to wipe out all traces of these great lords. to the records, at the fortress which houses today’s Parador, it was not unusual to see them coming and going with an escort of some thirty And so, all that remains of that noble castle is what the traveler sees men on horseback, and many more on foot. “All the household ate today, and even this is only through the good offices of Manuel Fraga wheat bread and wherever they went, the refrain could be heard: Iribarne, another notable native of Vilalba, who was wise enough to bakers be ready, Fernán Pérez is in town...” turn this tower into a Parador when he was Minister of Information and Tourism. With the passing of time, Fernando earned the greatest glory and honor for the Andrades, who was highly valuable and helpful to the Gran Capitán. Emperor Carlos V recognized his achievements, making him General of the Armada and the Kingdom of Galicia. Vilalba of A Terra Chá 1. Church of Santa María. 2. Chapel of San Roque. 5 4 3. Town Hall. 1 4. Postigo Quarter. 5. Cemetery. 3 2 VILALBA AND ITS PARADOR 3 The Siesta of the Holy Pig “... Don’t let the years confuse the classic proportions and the ingredients that go into giving it the right flavor...” Pork Empanada Pie; Octopus “a Feira” , seasoned with oil and paprika; Eggs with Zorza (fried and seasoned pork used to test the meat at slaughtering time); comforting Turnip Green Broth, The Knight of the Green Cloak. Álvaro Cunqueiro and numerous other dishes can all be sampled, depending on the season. The most discerning palates will do well to follow the advice and recipes of Álvaro Cunqueiro. Perhaps Partridge with Truffles and a Hint of Oregano and Mushrooms; or Partridge Lugo- H ere the reaction to an absence of pork and pork products is style, made with two slices of cured ham and four olives, “not being somewhat similar to what they say was that of some sweet- miserly with the lemon in the fat used for basting”; or Partridge toothed nuns who cursed the jug when the wine ran out.