Regensburg, Eastern Bavaria & the Bavarian Forest
REGENSBURG, EASTERN BAVARIA & THE BAVARIAN FOREST 193 © Lonely Planet Lonely © Passau Bavarian Forest Marktl am Inn Walhalla Regensburg
beer beer Bavarian Bavarian Heilig-Geist-Stift- Marktl am Inn Marktl ( p202 ) ( p207 ) ( p200 ) with the romantic skyline of ) with the romantic skyline of p200 ( ( p209 ) on its single-track railway as p209 ( Schenke town, the little village of cellar of Passau’s historic cellar of Passau’s Regensburg as a backdrop Regensburg ) p209 text, (boxed counter a pantheon of Germany’s greatest a pantheon of Germany’s greatest counter at the opulent temple minds and achievers Walhalla gardens Forest spruce branches smack the carriage win- dows on either side
a pilgrimage to the pope’s home- Taking Dining beneath the vines or in the candlelit in river-front Savouring local brews through the heart of the Forging Scaling the sheer marble staircase to en-
HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS The region’s centrepiece, the Unesco-listed city of Regensburg, is a vibrant blend of medi- is a vibrant blend of of Regensburg, city the Unesco-listed centrepiece, region’s The For over two millennia, the Danube has lured Celts, Romans, missionaries, kings, Celts, Kaisers,Danube has lured two millennia, the For over
east makes an affordable, active and unforgettable getaway. east makes and unforgettable an affordable, active Wald. Combine this with some of the country’s lowest-priced quality lodging, and Bavaria’s quality lodging, lowest-priced Wald. Combine this with some of the country’s hiking skiing, and the Nationalpark Bayerischer along with Germany’s oldest national park, and valleys of the Bavarian Forest shelter a centuries-old tradition of glass-making shelter and pristine and valleys of the Bavarian Forest (old town) are all easily reached from here. Blanketing the far-eastern edge, the mountains Blanketing the far-eastern from here. reached all easily (old town) are Landshut’s proud castle, Straubing’s treasure-packed churches and Passau’s riverside Altstadt riverside churches and Passau’s Landshut’s proud castle, Straubing’s treasure-packed eval architecture and 21st-century verve, and an ideal starting and 21st-century point for your explorations: eval architecture kitsch promoters. kitsch promoters. genuinely glad to see you, and their traditions haven’t been hijacked by Hollywood or been hijacked by Hollywood or you, and their traditions haven’t genuinely glad to see be-seen slopes of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Life is unhurried, the locals are welcoming and is unhurried, the locals are be-seen Life of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. slopes charms remain far removed from the theme-park feel of Neuschwanstein or the see-and- from the theme-park of Neuschwanstein feel far removed charms remain merchants, and, more recently, international cruise goers, to Eastern Bavaria. Even so, its Even Bavaria. to Eastern cruise goers, international recently, merchants, and, more painters and composers, and delivered the region power and prosperity. the region and delivered and composers, painters ebrated waterways, the Danube. This epic river has captured the imagination of poets, of poets, the imagination has captured epic river This the Danube. waterways, ebrated washed red-roofed villages, dense forests and vibrant cities is one of the world’s most cel- and vibrant cities is one villages, dense forests washed red-roofed Threading through Eastern Bavaria’s patchwork of bleached gold and green fields, white- gold and green patchwork of bleached Bavaria’s Eastern through Threading & the Bavarian Forest Forest Bavarian & the Eastern Eastern Bavaria Regensburg, ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ REGENSBURG, EASTERN BAVARIA & THE BAVARIAN FOREST students), nofewer thanthree localbreweries spirited nightlife (thanksto25,000university ger Palace. thanBuckingham You’llalsofind prowl thecorridors of aroyalresidence big- against awallerected bytheRomans and inaformer Gothicchapel,can eatpasta lean Dom (cathedral).Thisisacitywhere you ways andbeneaththesoaringspires of the honeycombofDanube, intheAltstadt’s lane- gardenon thebanksofin aleafybeer the less, often surprising,places.You’llfindit in Europe. Itsmagicreveals incount- itself towns medieval among thebest-preserved one of Bavaria’smostbeautifulcitiesand At onceancientandvibrant, Regensburg is % 194 REGENSBURG Buttenheim EASTERN BAVARIA Schwabach Lichtenfels A70 Gössweinstein Forchheim A9 0941 /pop150,000elev330m Roth F RANCOI Altmühltal Naturpark Nuremberg REGENSBURG, EASTERN BAVARIAREGENSBURG, EASTERN &THE BAVARIAN FOREST••Regensburg Aichach Lauf Neuburg an Pottenstein der Donau Eichstätt Ingolstadt Feucht A9 Eckental Schrobenheisen Pfaffenhofen Neumarkt Kulmbach Beilngries ὈὈ Dachau A6 Bayreuth Hersbruck A9 A3 Kloster Weltenburg Befreiungshalle Danube Gorge; Rosenberg Pegnitz Riedenburg Sulzbach- Schleissheim Freising B301 To Munich (10km) Münchberg Regensburg Burglengenfeld U PERBAVI B16 B299 Moosburg Mainburg A93 A92 Schwandorf Kelheim Amberg Saal Erding Landshut Donaustauf A93 Marktredwitz Selb B15 Weiden Neustadt anderWaldnaab Vilsbiburg B299 Dorfen Walhalla B14 B8 B22 Mühldorf
Straubing Dingolfing B the cityat thecrossroads Steinerne Brücke (StoneBridge), which put tunes, especiallyafter thecompletion of the theMiddleAges,through andsodiditsfor- town their capital. dukesbishopric; andtheBavarian madethe northern boundary;StBonifacefounded a strong legionhere in179AD,markingtheir Romans builtafortress housinga6000- that’swhat’s happened:theAnd indeed, here,’ Goethe. one hadtosettle rhapsodised ‘Regensburg issobeautifullysituated, some- History for atleastacouple of days. tokeep youbusy engagingsights and enough Eggenfelden
Furth imWald
A3 a A92 Regensburg’s steadily prominencerose
Kloster Metten
B20 v Cham
Altötting a Landau Deggendorf
am Inn Grosser Arber Marktl r B85
(1456m) i Plattling
Bodenmais
ὈὈ
a
Bad Griesbach n
Braunau
Eisenstein Vilshofen Dan Bayerisch B8
Klingenbrunn
F Zwiesel
ube o
0 0
A USTRI River Regen
Pocking
r Spiegelau e Silberberg
(995m) Ludwigsthal s Wildnis Haus zur Inn Neuschönau
Frauenau
B12 Forest Bohemian Passau of boththeeast–west t River R EPUBLIC Plzeñ Grafenau B11 C ZEH Tittling lonelyplanet.com National Park Sumava Felswandergebiet Bayerischer Wald (Bavarian Forest Finsterau National Park) Nationalpark 20 miles A3 40 km