RELIGIOUS TOURISM FAITH, CULTUREIN AND VENEZIA TRADITIONS GIULIA

1 ART& CULTURE EXPERIENCE SLOW EXPERIENCE

Friuli Venezia Giulia with art: All the activities for exploring the region and its historical, Relaxing in : artistic and cultural treasures. All the activities to help you slow down, relax, and discover the region’s unhurried beauty. BIKE EXPERIENCE OUTDOOR EXPERIENCE

Friuli Venezia Giulia on two wheels: All the activities to discover the beauty of the region by bike. Friuli Venezia Giulia on the go: All the activities for a dynamic vacation filled with sports TASTE and adventure. EXPERIENCE FAMILY EXPERIENCE

Friuli Venezia Giulia to savor: All the region’s fine food and wine tasting tours and activities. Friuli Venezia Giulia for the family: All the activities for a family-friendly vacation to discover all that the region has to offer. INDEX

ANCIENT FAITHS, RECENT FAITHS WALKING TRAILS 24 The Heavenly Way ECCLESIA MATER 25 The Carnic Pievi Trail 6 EARLY-CHRISTIAN TRACES FROM AQUILEIA TO THEMED ROUTES 8 Grado 27 The Benedictine Abbeys Way 9 San Canzian d’Isonzo : the Frassati trail 10 Duino 28 Valleys: votive churches 11 MULTI-RELIGIOUS TRIESTE 29 Lower Friuli: Frescoes in country churches 12 SYNAGOGUE OF TRIESTE EVANGELICAL CHURCHES 31 Short itineraries - (UD): An open-air Bible EVANGELICAL CHURCHES Fiume (PN): 13 ORTHODOX CHURCHES OF SAN SPIRIDIONE A cycle tour of pievi and little frescoed churches 32 Porcia (PN): Pievi and spring churches AND SAN NICOLÒ DEI GRECI (UD): Votive churches of rojale 33 San Giorgio della Richinvelda (PN): 14 , A MITTELEUROPEAN TOWN Cycling around the 15th and 16th centuries 15 AND TIEPOLO (PN): The Cardinals’ Way 16 Nearby - 17 Nearby - 18 LONGOBARD CIVIDALE 19 Nearby - 20 , THE PAINTED TOWN 21 Nearby - San Vito al 22 Nearby - SHRINES 35 Grado: Santuario di Barbana 36 : Santuario della Beata Vergine di Castelmonte 37 Gemona del Friuli: Santuario di Sant’Antonio 38 : Santuario del Monte Lussari 39 All the shrines in Friuli Venezia Giulia ABBEYS AND MONASTERIES 42 : Benedictine abbey of Santa Maria in Sylvis 43 Manzano: Rosazzo Abbey 44 Udinese: San Gallo Abbey 45 Poffabro (): Santa Maria Annunciata Benedictine monastery (Trieste): San Cipriano Benedictine monastery Montegnacco (): Carmelo di San Gesù di Nazareth Monastery 46 CELEBRATIONS, PASSION PLAYS AND RE-ENACTMENTS 47 NATIVITY SCENES ANCIENT FAITHS, RECENT FAITHS

A land where peoples and cultures mingle: Friuli Venezia Giulia was al- ways thus. Christianity has very an- cient origins here; in order to estab- lish itself and convince the people of the new message, it had to take the same path as the pre-existing Celtic, Jewish and Roman beliefs, deal with heresies and schisms, and recon- cile folk beliefs with the Patriarch of Aquileia’s learned theology. The result is a very deeply-rooted religious spir- it, which means that Marian shrines and small country churches, pre- cious early-Christian and the Biblia pauperum, solemn hymns and folk songs can co-exist without con- tradictions. Similarly, the ancient Christian and Jewish faiths have been joined in recent years by the faiths of the communities of recent immi- grants, especially Islam, plus a Bud- dhist temple and a Shinto shrine. AQUILEIA ECCLESIA MATER

A religious itinerary in Friuli gether of people of different ments of the Friuli Venezia Giu- Venezia Giulia could only start languages and ethnic origins. lia region for all that it has rep- from Aquileia. A city of the Ro- The supremacy of the Church resented for Christianity over man Empire, in the 3rd century of Aquileia was established the centuries, for its historical it had already become a major when the town’s took centre of Christianity and for the title of patriarch, and with INFO: the evangelisation of eastern the building of the basilica, an Basilica and Bell Tower of Aquileia and northern Europe. With episcopal centre for liturgical TEL. +39 0431 919719 [email protected] 57 dioceses, the metropolitan celebrations and for instructing www.basilicadiaquileia.it province of Aquileia was the catechumens. biggest of mediaeval Europe, Early-Christian Museum TEL. +39 0431 91131 second in dignity only to , The Basilica of Aquileia is one (Thursday 8.30-13.45) but unique for its bringing to- of the most outstanding monu- [email protected] 6 and artistic heritage and, lastly, for the importance it still has for the local community. The present building is the re- sult of reconstructions and res- torations through the centuries. The architectural layout dates from the 11th century, but the basilica’s true treasure, the mo- saic floor, is from the 4th cen- tury. It was laid at the behest of Theodore immediately after Emperor Constantine’s Edict of Milan in 313 CE. The figurative layout – some patch- es of which are still mysterious and difficult to interpret – de- picts the journey towards eter- nal salvation. The in the South Hall covers 760 square metres and is the largest mosa- ic floor in the Western . Though not as big, the mosaics in the North Hall (seen in the crypt of the archaeologi- cal site) are just as important, as is a mosaic fragment called “of the peacock” now in the South Hall Another early-Christian complex of Aquileia is the late-4th-centu- ry basilica of Monastero, which now houses the National Ear- ly-Christian Museum.

Detail of the basilica’s mosaic floor Frescoes in the apse of the basilica 7 EARLY-CHRISTIAN TRACES FROM AQUILEIA TO TRIESTE

info: Parish of Grado Tel. +39 0431 80146 [email protected] 8 GRADO: THE BASILICAS

The town of Grado was original- flee from the Hun. How- marking the beginning of the ly the seaboard port of call for ever, Grado’s greatest expan- “doubling” of the patriarchate. Aquileia. It grew considerably sion took place following the From that moment on there from the onwards Longobard occupation of Friuli were two patriarchs, the pa- when part of the population of in 569 CE, when Bishop Paul triarch of Aquileia and that of Aquileia moved to the coast to moved from Aquileia to Grado, Grado. The centuries-old bond between the two towns also came to an end: from then on Grado’s ties were with the Med- iterranean area and Byzantium while Aquileia looked only to continental Europe.

Basilica di Santa Eufemia Consecrated in 579, the basilica has a spectacular mosaic floor which is much closer to the Byzantine style than the one in Aquileia. The interior has three naves; there is a large fresco on the apsidal semi-dome, a gilded silver altar-piece (a mas- terpiece of Venetian goldsmith- ing) and an unusual pulpit with a Moresque-style sounding board.

Basilica di Santa Maria delle Grazie The basilica, too, has ear- ly-Christian architecture and dates from the 5th-6th centu- ries. Items worthy of note inside the basilica include the geomet- ric-patterned floor mosaics, the altar, the stoup, and a wooden statue of the Madonna delle Grazie, to which the people of Grado are devoted.

9 SAN CANZIAN D’ISONZO: MARTYR SAINTS CANTIUS, CANTIANUS AND CANTIANILLA

Even the name of the village re- veals the locality’s connection with the cult of the martyr saints Cantius, Cantianus and Cantia- nilla, three brothers from a rich and powerful family of Aquileia. Tradition has it that in 303, dur- ing ’s persecution, the three were martyred in the present-day San Canzian d’Ison- zo, where traces of the basilica dedicated to them were found in addition to vestiges of their tomb, which are now in the par- ish church. Their martyrdom is commem- orated every year on the first Sunday in June when the saints’ relics are displayed. The nearby little church of San Proto is dedicated to two other martyrs of Aquileia, Protus and Chrysogonus. The little church of Santo Spirito is also worth a visit.

INFO: Parish of San Canzian d’Isonzo TEL. +39 0481 76044 DUINO: CHURCH OF SAN GIOVANNI IN TUBA

On the road from Aquileia to built over the remains of an Trieste, at the river head of the even older rectangular sacel- Timavo, the church of San Gio- lum, thought to be a Christian INFO: vanni in Tuba includes vestiges building associated with the cult Soprintendenza of a 5th-century early-Christian of the Baptist. of Friuli Venezia Giulia basilica, which it seems was TEL. +39 040 4261411 10 MULTI-RELIGIOUS TRIESTE

A city on the sea and, above all, the only point of access to the Adriatic for the Aus- trian Empire, to which the city belonged at the time. In 1719 Trieste was declared a free port and so it became a cosmopolitan, multilingual and multi-religious city. Over the centuries, Italians, Slovenes, Germans, Serbs, Croats, , Greeks, Swiss, British, Armenians and Jews met and settled in Trieste. Each com- munity brought its own faith and many still have a place of worship in the town.

The of San Giusto set on the top of the hill of the The interior is divided into five (St Justus) is the city’s most im- same name. The cathedral assu- naves and is decorated with 13th portant Catholic building and is med its present appearance in century frescoes, depicting the the first half of the 14th century lifefrescoes, depicting the life when two pre-existing churches of Saint Justus, and mosaics in INFO: were unified. It has a very be- the two side apses, executed by Parish office TEL. +39 040 3224576 autiful white-stone Gothic rose craftsmen from and Ra- [email protected] window decorating the façade. venna. 11 SYNAGOGUE OF TRIESTE

Inaugurated in 1912, the monu- features different styles which, mental synagogue is a tangible together, produce the effect of reflection of the importance of the an original, highly evocative con- Jewish community in the city’s struction. Next to the synagogue INFO: Jewish Community of Trieste economy and culture in the early are the offices of the Jewish com- TEL. + 39 040 371466 20th century. It is one of the big- munity, a library, the archives and [email protected] gest synagogues in Europe and the mikveh (ritual bath). EVANGELICAL CHURCHES

The presence of Evangelicals community of the Swiss de- settled in the city helped the was another result of Trieste’s nomination bought at auction new Methodist church and in status as a free port, which the basilica of San Silvestro, 1898 it obtained its own place in the 18th century attracted the city’s oldest church, dating of worship, the chapel of the people from different places, back to the 11th or 12th century. former Evangelical cemetery in including a number of Swiss From then on it was the main Via del Monte. nationals who set up mercan- church for this faith and, from tile agencies or were bankers or 1927, for the Waldensians. The INFO: insurers. Inspired by the prin- Lutheran evangelical communi- Swiss and Waldensian Church ciples of the Enlightenment, ty had its own church built on TEL. +39 040 632770 [email protected] the empire extended religious Largo Panfili; the neo-Gothic triestevangelica.org freedom to non-Catholics and church opened for worship in when Emperor Franz Joseph 1874. Lastly, in the 19th century Methodist Church TEL. +39 040 2415915 ordered that various church- the Evangelical and Lutheran [email protected] es be sold off, the evangelical communities that were already triestevangelica.org 12 ORTHODOX CHURCHES OF SAN SPIRIDIONE AND SAN NICOLÒ DEI GRECI

A religious-architectural itine- most-admired architectural not least to the numerous Greek rary in Trieste must certainly landmarks. It has a classic merchants whose boats, loaded include the orthodox churches Greek cross ground plan of with goods, arrived every day in of the Serbian and Greek com- Eastern tradition and is topped Trieste. munities. The Serbian Ortho- by five domes in a distinctive

dox church is in the centre of blue shade. The Greek Orthodox INFO: the Theresian Quarter, which church is dedicated to St Nicho- Serbian Orthodox Community was laid out at the behest of las, patron saint of sailors and TEL. +39 040 631 328 - [email protected] Empress Maria Theresa in the shipowners, and is set on the Greek Orthodox Community mid-18th century. Dedicated to shore. It was built there because TEL. +39 040 635614 St Spyridon, its artistic impor- at the time Trieste was a rich [email protected] tance makes it one of Trieste’s port and trading centre, thanks

Inside the church of San Spiridione

13 GORIZIA, A MITTELEUROPEAN TOWN

Part of the Austro-Hungarian empire until 1918, Gorizia, too, has a history of religious openness. Based on the principles of the Enlightenment, the empire guaranteed religious freedom to non-Catholics and so the city took in many Jews expelled from Venetian territories at the end of the 18th century.

Gorizia Cathedral, dedicated to The altar-piece is the work of Giu- articles, artefacts, books, photo- the city’s patron saints, Hilary seppe Tominz, a 19th-century graphs, documents and prints and Tatian, is in the Baroque painter known for his portraits related to the history of Gorizia’s style with three naves, two gal- of the bourgeoisie of Gorizia Jewish community. An internal leries and women’s galleries and and Trieste. The musician angels staircase leads to the temple on a large for the organ and depicted on the ceiling of the the first floor, which has its orig- choir. Cappella di Sant’Acazio, now the inal 18th-century aspect. Here, Among the important works of sacristy vestry, display particular one can admire the women’s historical and artistic interest in- beauty and elegance. gallery and the Torah Ark, which side the cathedral are the grave- The Synagogue of Gorizia is in faces Jerusalem. The museum is stone of the last Count of Gori- the ancient ghetto. It was built run by the Associazione Amici di zia, the high altar, the side altars in 1756 and used by the Jewish Israele di Gorizia (Assoc. Friends and the early-18th-century pulpit. community until 1969 when it of Israel in Gorizia). was amalgamated with the syn- INFO: agogue in Trieste; today it is no INFO: Gorizia Cathedral longer regularly used for worship. Piccola Gerusalemme sull’Isonzo TEL. +39 0481 530193 Synagogue of Gorizia [email protected] On the ground floor is an educa- TEL. +39 0481 532115 cattedrale.arcidiocesi.gorizia.it tional museum displaying ritual 14 UDINE AND TIEPOLO

INFO: Parish of Santa Maria Annunziata TEL. +39 0432.505302 [email protected]

Museo Diocesano and Tiepolo Galleries in the Palazzo Patriarcale, the TEL. +39 0432 298056 - fax 0432 298057 The imposing, monumental in- [email protected] terior is Baroque and houses residence of the patriarchs of Aq- many works of art by artists such uileia from 1593 to 1751. Today it as Pomponio Amalteo, Il Porde- is the bishop’s residence and in An unmissable place to none, Pellegrino da San Daniele, addition to the splendid frescoes visit for lovers of Gio- Il Torretti, Domenico da Tolmez- in the Tiepolo Galleries it hou- vanni Battista Tiepolo’s zo, Louis Dorigny and, of course, ses the Diocesan Museum with Giovanni Battista Tiepolo, who a collection of 700 works of art. work, Udine has a num- created the small altar-piece of The wooden sculptures are of ber of his masterpieces the Resurrection and, above all, particular interest. The library of in the cathedral and the the fresco with an Angel Choir Patriarch Delfino is of considera- Tiepolo Galleries. which gracefully emerges from ble historical and artistic impor- the ceiling to herald, with won- tance. There are exquisite illumi- The façade of the Cathedral of drous beauty, the young Tiepo- nated manuscripts, incunabula, Santa Maria Annunziata is based lo’s enormous potential. books published in the16th cen- on transitional Gothic models. The Tiepolo itinerary continues tury and rare first editions. 15 to magnificently illuminated NEARBY 13th- and 14th-century manu- scripts of the Bolognese-Padu- GEMONA DEL FRIULI: MUSEUM OF THE PIEVE an school, liturgical books and AND THE TREASURE OF THE CATHEDRAL musical codices. The Treasure of the Cathedral has some of The museum has paintings and Gemona which were destroyed the most beautiful pieces of sculptures by local artists (13th- in the 1976 earthquake and no 15th-century jewellery of Friuli. 19th c.) and religious furnish- longer used after the reconstruc-

ings that came from churches of tion. A major section is devoted INFO: Museo della Pieve & Tesoro del Duomo - Gemona del Friuli TEL. +39 0432 980608 [email protected]

16 NEARBY SAN DANIELE DEL FRIULI: CHIESA DI SANT’ANTONIO ABATE

INFO: Chiesa di Sant’Antonio Abate TEL. +39 0432 940765 [email protected]

The church of St Anthony the The interior is embellished with Great is in the old centre of San three cycles of frescoes, one of executed the cycle from 1497 to Daniele del Friuli, its construc- which is the work of Martino 1522. The side windows are of tion was connected with the da Udine, better known as Pel- extreme interest: two of them activity of an ancient hospital. legrino da San Daniele, who are original and date from 1487. 17 LONGOBARD CIVIDALE

INFO: Museo Cristiano e Tesoro del Duomo CELL. +39 349 541668 (Ticket office) CELL. +39 349 3541668 (Booking office) TEL. +39 0432 730403 [email protected] [email protected] www.mucris.it

An unmissable destination for those who want to Tempietto Longobardo know about Friuli Venezia Giulia, and Monastero di Santa Maria in Valle TEL. +39 0432 700867 (Ticket office) preserves precious vestiges of its Longobard past and is TEL. +39 0432 710460 (Booking office) [email protected] the starting point of the UNESCO itinerary focused on www.tempiettolongobardo.it the legacy of this mysterious people.

The Museo Cristiano del Duomo from the period when Patriarch tal’s several-thousand-year-old has some of the most representa- Calixtus was in Cividale, 737 to Christian history. One of the tive pieces of the Early Middle 756. The Treasure of the Cathe- most important remains of Ages, especially of the Lon- dral has a co-ordinated collec- Longobard Cividale is the Small gobard era. The most important tion – presented in an entirely Longobard Temple in the Mona- is undoubtedly the Ratchis Altar, unprecedented form – of jewel- stery of Santa Maria in Valle. which is dateable to 737-744, the lery, liturgical articles, paintings Built in the second half of the years when Ratchis was duke of and sculptures, manuscripts 8th century, it has a square Friuli before he took the crown and codices, and precious vest- hall with a cross vault ceiling of the Kingdom of the Lom- ments which clearly demon- and includes frescoes executed bards. The of Calixtus strate the absolute importance by Byzantine craftsmen and is also very important and dates of the ancient Longobard capi- beautiful decorations. 18 NEARBY PULFERO: SAN GIOVANNI D’ANTRO The cave of St John of Antro trance. Inside is a chapel and a cave, of which several hundred provided shelter for the native fine 18th-century wooden altar, metres may be visited. population from ancient times of the Slovenian school, with onward and in the 8th century 16th-century statues attributed it also became a place of wor- to Giovanni Martini’s studio. INFO: ship. A climb of one hundred There are continuously-grow- Grotta di San Giovanni d’Antro steps leads to the fortified en- ing limestone formations in the CELL. +39 339 7779367 (sig. Bruno) TEL. +39 0432 726017 [email protected] www..pulfero.ud.it

19 PORDENONE, THE PAINTED TOWN

Called “the painted Built from the 13th century on- St Mark’s Cathedral has works town” because of the ward, the Duomo di San Marco by Giovanni Antonio de Sacchis, frescoes on the façades was later enlarged to include called Il Pordenone, the greatest the big polygonal, windowed Renaissance painter in Friuli. on buildings in the old apse between the two smaller His are the altar-piece of the town centre, Pordenone’s apses and, from 1593, the six high altar, dedicated to St Mark, cathedral houses other side chapels. The unfinished the Misericordia altar-piece works by its most famous façade has an elegant central and the frescos of St Roch, artist, Giovanni Antonio stone portal by Giovanni An- St Erasmus and the Virgin de Sacchis, better known tonio Pilacorte (1511), a stone and Child. The St Roch fresco mason from Ticino who worked (1515-1518) is a true masterpiece by the name of his town, at length in Friuli in the 16th and is traditionally believed to be Il Pordenone. century. The single-nave interi- a self-portrait of Il Pordenone. In or was finalised in the 18th cen- the side chapels are frescoes by tury. The very beautiful stoup Giovanni Maria Zaffoni, called Il INFO: (1506) and the font (1508) are Calderari, and an altar-piece by Parish of San Marco Pomponio Amalteo. TEL. +39 0434 520403 also by Pilacorte. [email protected] 20 The Diocesan Museum of Church Art hou- ses religious sculpture, frescoes, paintings, drawings, prints, fabrics and furnishings, mainly from the local area and dateable from the 7th to the 19th centuries. There are, in particular, works by Gianfrance- sco da , Giovanni Martini, Giovan- ni Maria Calderari, Francesco Guardi, Alvise Casella and Pomponio Amalteo.

INFO: • Museo diocesano d’arte sacra TEL. +39 0434 524340 [email protected] www.diocesi.concordia-pordenone.it NEARBY : SANTA MARIA DEI BATTUTI

The history of this 15th-century church is connected with that of the ancient hospital founded by the Confraternita dei Battuti (a confraternity of penitents). The church’s interior has a major cycle of frescoes by Pomponio Amalteo, executed from 1535 on- wards. Also worthy of note are the choir altar by Pietro Baratta with statues of the Holy Virgin and Saints Peter and John the Baptist; and the frontal high reliefs with the Virgin of Mercy, the Nativity, the Circumcision of Jesus and musician putti.

INFO: Antico ospedale della Confraternita di Santa Maria dei Battuti TEL. +39 0434 8411 TEL. +39 0434 833295 21 SPILIMBERGO: DUOMO DI SANTA MARIA MAGGIORE

The construction of St Mary it started under the influence treasures are the 14th-century Major began in 1284 next to the of Romanesque art, but was frescoes in the apses. ancient town walls, of which it slowly built during a period of incorporated a tower that was transition when Gothic art first INFO: converted into the bell tower. appeared then prevailed, giving Parish of Santa Maria Maggiore The cathedral was initially de- majesty and elegance to the ca- TEL. +39 0427 2059 signed in a different style: in fact thedral. The cathedral’s finest [email protected] 22 WALKING TRAILS THE HEAVENLY WAY

The Iter Aquieliense, or Heavenly the spread of Christianity across variety of scenery. Pilgrims and Way, is an international religious central Europe. Brezje, near tourists may enjoy a range of walking trail which goes through Kranj, was chosen for ; experiences: see small country three countries (, and it is the most important place churches or famous shrines such Slovenia), converging on Mount of prayer to the Mother of God as Castelmonte, visit towns rich Lussari on the furthermost bor- in Slovenia. In Austria, Maria in history and art like Cividale del der of north-eastern Italy, where Saal, above , and its Friuli or delight in the quiet calm there is a Marian shrine called splendid pilgrimage church built of the forests and nature parks. “of the three peoples” because around the 8th century played it is a destination for pilgrims an important role in the history from the three nations. The Ital- of Carinthia and for the cultural INFO: ian stretch is about 200 km and and religious identity of central www.camminoaquileiese.it starts in Aquileia, formerly a Europe. patriarchal seat and a centre for The Italian route features a wide 24 THE CARNIC PIEVI TRAIL

Isolated, perched on hills or high to the 14th centuries. They still sacraments. In the same peri- ground, standing guard over the boast wonderful works of art, od, individual pievi were built in communities and villages below, which bear witness to the deep- the surrounding areas where the the pievi are the ancient baptis- felt religious spirit of mountain parish inhabitants went to re- mal churches built in the coun- people. , the ancient Ro- ceive the same sacraments. tryside, centres of evangelisation man Iulium Carnicum, was the Devised as a spiritual and re- in rural areas. There are ten in most important centre for the ligious pilgrimage, the Carnic , founded from the 5th spread of Christianity in Carnia Pievi Trail is also an excellent in the early years of the faith. In way of getting to know important the ancient basilica of Zuglio historical and cultural aspects (of which there are only a few of this region. The Trail is also INFO: remains) the alpine inhabitants suitable for families; the average www.camminodellepievi.it who converted to Christianity length of each stage is approxi- were baptised and received the mately 14 kilometres. 25 THEMED ROUTES THE BENEDICTINE ABBEYS WAY

This walk is a journey along This itinerary is also an oppor- A journey through history that ancient routes. It crosses Friuli tunity to see places rich in reli- reveals extremely interesting Venezia Giulia, connecting the gious spirit, to learn about the places around the region. ancient Benedictine abbeys of history of monasticism as you go San Gallo in , through various areas, starting LENGTH (MOGGIO UDINESE - Rosazzo in Manzano, and S. from the and MANZANO - SESTO AL REGHENA): Maria a Sesto in Reghena, de- to the Colli Orientali del Friuli 154 KM TIME REQUIRED: YOU NEED AT LEAST scriptions and directions for zone and ending on the plain TWO FULL DAYS TO DO THE WHOLE which are to be found later on near Pordenone, at the Reghena ROUTE. in this guide. river on the border with Veneto.

MANIAGO: THE FRASSATI TRAIL

The trail is named in honour of up a national scheme for cre- and Val Cellina, through small the Blessed Pier Giorgio Frassati, ating a trail in his name in each towns and villages of immense a young man born in Turin; he Italian region. beauty, such as Poffabro. The loved the mountains and was In Friuli Venezia Giulia, the trail many churches, chapels and mo- an expert mountain-climber. The goes through the municipalities nasteries dotted along the route CAI (Italian Alpine Club) has set of Maniago, , Frisanco and clearly testify to the region’s cen- and can be divided into turies-spanning religious history. three stages. It is a wonderful INFO: trail offering a mixture of history, LENGTH: 39 KM TIME REQUIRED: 15 HOURS CAI, Maniago branch faith and nature. From the plain TEL. +39 0427 730749 ELEVATION GAIN: 1401 M [email protected] of Maniago it rises through the DIFFICULTY: EASY FROM MANIAGO TO [email protected] Carnic Prealps, in Val Colvera POFFABRO 27 NATISONE VALLEYS: VOTIVE CHURCHES

A route through the unspoilt, neighbouring Slovenia and, spe- LENGTH: APPROX 60 KM almost wild scenery of the Nati- cifically, from kofja Loka. Some TIME REQUIRED: AT LEAST 5 DAYS sone river valleys, connecting churches still have 16th-century ACCESSIBILITY: ON FOOT, BY MOUNTAIN-BIKE, E-BIKE OR ON 44 small 14th-century religious frescoes and gilded wooden HORSEBACK buildings which testify to the altars of the Slovenian school. DIFFICULTY: EASY uniqueness of this region and The full route takes several days, its special bond with Slavic but it can be done in stages as and Germanic cultures. In fact one-day loop walks. all these little churches display the style known as “flamboy- INFO: ant Gothic” which came from Pro Loco Nediske Doline Valli del Natisone CELL. +39 349 3241168 CELL. +39 339 8403196 www.nediskedoline.it

28 LOWER FRUILI: FRESCOES IN COUNTRY CHURCHES

The route from Castions di Stra- : Church of Strassoldo (Cervignano del da to Perteole is a little more Sant’Andrea in Gris and Church Friuli): Church of Santa Maria than 50 km. But it takes at least of San Marco in Cuccana in Vineis two or three days to visit all the The church of Sant’Andrea is It is in the lovely village of Stras- churches. one of the most beautiful in the soldo, which is famous for its Access: country churches are region. It is frescoed throughout two castles belonging to the ma- opened only for specific occa- with well-preserved paintings norial family of the same name. sions in the year. Therefore you dating back to 1531, especially a The castles can be visited. The must phone the parish office famous devil depicted as it cap- church has a 14th-century cycle beforehand to arrange a visit. tures souls and devours them. of frescoes narrating the life of The cycle is part of the Biblia Mary. : Church pauperum (Paupers’ Bible) of Santa Maria delle Grazie whose educational purpose was INFO: The church is on the road to the to help the people of the time to Pro Loco Strassoldo cemetery. It was probably once understand the Holy Scriptures. TEL. +39 0431 93298 a parish church. The cycle of The frescoes in San Marco are [email protected] paintings dates from the 16th also very interesting; the sub- century and illustrates the life of jects include the sins and vir- St Blaise. tues set in contrast side by side. Malisana (): Church Santi Pietro e Paolo The little church is in the village INFO: INFO: Parish of Castions di Strada Parishes of Bicinicco cemetery, close to the ancient TEL. +39 0432 768054 TEL. +39 0432 993310 / 990336 . The central body of the building is 10th-century and the fragments of the oldest Mereto di Capitolo (Santa Maria frescoes probably date from the la Longa): Church of San Pietro same period. The main cycle de- It is situated close to the cem- picts the Doctors of the Church etery and its high bell-gable is and dates from the 14th century. easily spotted from a distance. The church walls are decorated INFO: with two 16th-century fresco Parish di Malisana cycles attributed to two differ- TEL. +39 0431 92053 ent artists. The paintings depict the village community’s Holy Helpers.

INFO: Parish of Mereto di Capitolo TEL. +39 0432 928337

29 San Martino (Terzo di Aquileia): Perteole (Ruda): Church of San Martino Church of Santi Andrea e Anna The church is almost entirely Of very ancient origins, the frescoed and is considered a church is in the village of Per- little jewel. There are four cy- teole, on a road that was once cles – attributed to local artists on the route which pilgrims – which depict important pas- from the north took to the Holy sages from the Bible. The oldest Land. It has two cycles of fres- cycle is 11th-century. coes, one dating from the 16th century and an older one that is probably of the 13th century.

INFO: INFO: Parish of Terzo of Aquileia Parish of Perteole TEL. +39 0431 32571 TEL. +39 0481 597617

30 SHORT ITINERARIES CERVICENTO AN OPEN-AIR BIBLE

Three Bible-themed routes (Ten paint, displayed on the walls TIME REQUIRED: WHOLE ROUTE 2.5 fundamental moments in the of private homes and public HOURS (INDIVIDUAL ITINERARIES FROM history of salvation, the Way of buildings. The Holy Scripture 10’ TO 40’) ACCESSIBILITY: ON FOOT, BY BICYCLE. Mary, the Way of Mercy) and becomes an itinerary of cul- ACCESSIBLE FOR PERSONS WITH three works (the Last Judge- ture and spiritual reflection MOTOR DISABILITIES ment, the Good Samaritan and that highlights the architectural DIFFICULTY: EASY / FOR EVERYONE the Transfiguration) made from beauty of this little mountain mosaic, photoceramic and village.

INFO: Infopoint TEL. +39 388 3432047 www.unabibbiaacieloaperto.it www.facebook.com/unabibbiaacieloaperto (PN): A CYCLE TOUR OF PIEVI AND LITTLE FRESCOED CHURCHES

A journey of discovery of small church of S. Maria della Tavel- Il Pordenone. Lastly, the Pieve di yet evocative places of worship la, the first church of the local S. Michele Arcangelo built in the and little artistic masterpieces Christian community, which has 13th century over a pre-existing in the municipality of Fiume Ve- three fresco cycles dating from 7th/8th-century structure; the neto. These places include the the 11th to the 16th centuries. church has unusual frescoes of Continue with a visit to the Ora- beasts of prey and birds. torio di San Girolamo and its INFO: beautiful paintings attributed to LENGTH: 13.4 KM Pro Loco Fiume in Festa TIME REQUIRED: APPROX 2 HOURS CELL. +39 345 5796054 a youthful Giovanni Antonio de ACCESSIBILITY: BY BICYCLE fiume [email protected] Sacchis, the painter also called DIFFICULTY: EASY / FOR EVERYONE www.facebook.com/prolocofiume 31 PORCIA (PN): PIEVI AND SPRING CHURCHES

A route among the outlying Church of S. Michele Arcangelo FEW SECTIONS OF CYCLE/PEDESTRIAN districts of Porcia to see some is surrounded by lawns and has PATH little artistic gems: from the a stream running next to it; it DIFFICULTY: EASY / FOR EVERYONE Church of S. Vigilio, the most reminds us of what spring-wa- ancient and perhaps dating ter locations looked like in the from Roman times, to the im- past. posing Cathedral of S. Giorgio INFO: Martire which has a 16th-cen- LENGTH: 15 KM Pro Loco Pro Porcia TIME REQUIRED: APPROX 3 HOURS ON TEL. +39 0434 591008 tury wooden choir, one of the FOOT / APPROX 2 HOURS BY BICYCLE [email protected] most exceptional works in the ACCESSIBILITY: ON FOOT, BY BIKE. www.proporcia.it region. Lastly, the picturesque BARRIER-FREE ASPHALT ROAD WITH A

REANA DEL ROJALE (UD): VOTIVE CHURCHES OF ROJALE

A religious and artistic itinerary tury by the Confraternita della TO DO THE WHOLE LOOP ROUTE AND among the outlying districts of Madonna della Cintura (Broth- VISIT THE CHURCHES Reana del Rojale to see little erhood of the Madonna of the ACCESSIBILITY: BY BICYCLE, CAR OR BUS. PROVINCIAL AND COUNCIL churches rich in history. The Holy Belt) and richly decorated ROADS, CYCLE PATHS AND SOME DIRT Church of S. Agnese is men- in that period. Lastly, the little TRACK SECTIONS tioned in records as far back as country church of S. Giacomo DIFFICULTY: EASY / FOR EVERYONE the 13th century as a chapel in in Tavella, in Rivis, was probably the village of Grandins, which built over the remains of an an- INFO: mysteriously disappeared in the cient Roman sacellum. Proloco del Rojale 17th century. The Church of S. CELL. +39 349 4244611 Maria degli Angeli in Reana was LENGTH: 25 KM www.prolocodelrojale.it founded in the mid-16th cen- TIME REQUIRED: IT TAKES A FULL DAY

32 SAN GIORGIO DELLA RICHINVELDA (PN): CYCLING AROUND THE 15TH AND 16TH CENTURIES

A bicycle trip to discover major taken in the remains of Bertando LENGTH: 17 KM artworks in the local area and its di Saint Geniès, patriarch of Aq- TIME REQUIRED: APPROX 3 HOURS, history. The parish church of San uileia, after he was brutally mur- PLUS THE TIME NEEDED FOR THE VISITS ACCESSIBILITY: BY BIKE. Michele, in the district of Doma- dered on 5th June 1350 on the YOU CAN ALSO DO THIS ITINERARY BY nis, has a beautiful altar-piece of St plain of Richinvelda. The beau- CAR OR BUS OR ON FOOT AND THE Valentine benedictory, one of the tiful church of San Leonardo, TIMES REQUIRED WILL BE DIFFERENT, masterpieces of Pordenone-born in Provesano, with the biggest OF COURSE painter Gasparo Narvesa. The cycle of frescoes by the Car- DIFFICULTY: EASY / FOR EVERYONE little 13th-century country votive nia-born painter Gianfrancesco church of San Nicolò alla Richin- Dal Zotto, called Gianfrancesco INFO: velda, which is famous for having da Tolmezzo. Proloco San Giorgio della Richinvelda CELL. +39 348 6443824 www.prolocorichinvelda.it

ZOPPOLA (PN): THE CARDINALS’ WAY

An unusual itinerary centred on ceiling has a splendid fresco TIME: APPROX 2 HOURS two cardinals, sons of the little by Pomponio Amalteo. In Cas- ACCESSIBILITY: BY BICYCLE municipality of Zoppola: Anto- tions you can visit the birthplace DIFFICULTY: EASY / FOR EVERYONE nio Panciera and Celso Costan- of Cardinale Celso Costantini; tini. today the house is the Civic Art The route takes in the most im- Gallery and has many of the INFO: portant places associated with cardinal’s personal possessions. Zoppola Town Hall TEL. + 39 0434 97747 them, such as the study of Car- [email protected]; dinal Panciera, preserved in the [email protected] castle of Zoppola. The study’s 33 SHRINES GRADO SANTUARIO DI BARBANA

The Shrine of Barbana is situ- Tradition has it that the shrine the Holy Virgin and numerous ated on a tiny island in the la- dates back to 482 A.D. when an ex-votos. goon of Grado and is home to a image of the Holy Virgin was A regular ferry service links the community of Franciscan Friars found on the island after a rag- isle of Barbana to Grado, de- Minor. ing storm; this prompted the parting from the Canale della construction of the first church. Schiusa; the journey takes about The present shrine was built 20 minutes. INFO: from 1911 to 1924 in the Roman- The island has a little harbour Santuario Madonna di Barbana TEL: +39 0431 80453 esque Revival style. Inside the and can also be reached by pri- shrine is a fine wooden statue of vate boat. 35 PREPOTTO: SANTUARIO DELLA BEATA VERGINE DI CASTELMONTE

The very ancient Marian Shrine The statue’s characteristic dark of Castelmonte, not far from colouring is still a mystery. It is Cividale del Friuli, was already in undoubtedly part of the tradi- the 6th century one of the most tion of Black Madonnas found important places of pilgrimage in many European shrines. in the vast Patriarchate of Aqui- Testifying to the people’s de- leia. In later centuries it grew voutness, the shrine has many INFO: to become a fortified village. fine quality ex-votos. Overnight Santuario Beata Vergine di Castelmonte TEL. +39 0432 731094/701267 The statue of the Madonna and stays are possible, contact the [email protected] Child is the heart of the shrine. Shrine. www.santuariocastelmonte.it 36 GEMONA DEL FRIULI: SANTUARIO DI SANT’ANTONIO

The Shrine’s origins are close- Friuli in 1227. He stayed for a 1248. The church was enlarged, ly bound to the saint’s life. It few months, preaching and remodelled and enriched with is historically proven that St performing miracles. He also works of art over the centuries, Anthony came to Gemona del had a chapel built in honour then, alas, it was destroyed in of the Holy Virgin; the ruins of the 1976 earthquake. the chapel can still be seen in- Today a modern shrine stands INFO: side the shrine. It was indeed on the same spot. Santuario di Sant’Antonio a Gemona here in Gemona that the first TEL. + 39 0432 981113 [email protected] church in the world dedicated to www.santantoniogemona.it St Anthony was consecrated in 37 TARVISIO: SANTUARIO DEL MONTE LUSSARI

According to ancient tradition, ing of a 16th-century building. stays are possible, contact the the shrine originated in 1360. The shrine may be reached on Shrine. Following a series of miracu- foot along the evocative Sentie- lous events a chapel was built ro del Pellegrino (Pilgrim’s here. There is no longer any Path) that winds through the INFO: trace of the original chapel, woods of the Tarvisio forest, Parish of Camporosso the present shrine is the result or via the cableway that starts TEL. +39 0428 63057 of the rebuilding and enlarg- from Camporosso. Overnight 38 ALL THE SHRINES OF FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA

Gorizia •Santuario Madonna della •Santuario S.Petronilla •Santuario Maria Santissima Strada (Fanna) (San Vito al Tagliamento) Rosa Mistica () •Santuario Madonna della •Santuario Santa Maria in •Santuario Madonna di Strangada (Frisanco) Sylvis (Sesto al Reghena) Barbana (Grado) •Santuario Beata Vergine •Santuario S. Maria della •Santuario Santa Maria delle della Salute Frisanco Pietà () Grazie (Grado) (Pordenone) •Santuario S. Liberale (Sacile) •Santuario Monte Santo •Santuario dell’Immacolata •Santuario Beata Vergine (Gorizia) (Maniago) dell’Ancona (Spilimbergo) •Santuario Beata Vergine •Santuario San Bartolomeo •Santuario Madonna di Marcelliana () () Zancan () •Santuario S. Maria del •Santuario Santa Maria •Santuario SS. Corpo di Preval (Mossa) Assunta (Montereale Cristo (Valvasone) •Santuario San Canzian Valcellina) •Santuario Beata Vergine d’Isonzo (S. Canzian •Santuario SS. Trinità delle Grazie (Valvasone) d’Isonzo) () •Santuario Santissima Maria (Porcia) Trieste Pordenone •Santuario Beata Maria •Santuario Beata Vergine •Santuario Madonna del Vergine delle Grazie Assunta (Monrupino) Monte () (Pordenone) •Santuario Madonna della •Santuario S. Daniele di •Santuario Santa Maria degli Salute (Trieste) Monte () Angeli (Pordenone) •Santuario Madonna della •Santuario San Daniele •Santuario SS. Trinità Salvia (Trieste) (Castelnuovo del Friuli) (Pordenone) •Santuario S. Maria di •Santuario Madonna del •Santuario Beata Vergine dei Grignano (Trieste) Zucco (Castelnuovo del Battuti (Prata) •Santuario Nazionale a Maria Friuli) •Santuario Madonna di Rosa Madre e Regina (Trieste) •Preziosissimo Sangue di (San Vito al Tagliamento) •Santuario Santa Maria (Clauzetto) •Santuario Santa Maria Maggiore (Trieste) •Santuario Madonna delle dei Battuti (San Vito al •Santuario Madonna in Siaris Grazie () Tagliamento) (San Dorligo della Valle) 39 •Santuario S. Giuseppe •Santuario Madonna di Trava •Santuario S. Osvaldo (San Dorligo della Valle) () () •Santuario S. Maria di •Santuario SS. Trinità Comerzo ( ) () Udine •Santuario Madonna delle •Santuario Maria Santissima •Basilica di Santa Maria Pianelle () del Sabato () Assunta (Aquileia) •Santuario Madonna di •Santuario Santa Maria del •Capella della Madonna de Loreto () Giglio (Tarcento) Sesule () •Santuario Madonna di •Santuario Madonna del •Santuario della Beata Taviele () Lussari (Tarvisio) Vergine di Screncis () •Santuario Madonna di •Santuario Maria Missionaria •Santuario Madonna della Muris () () Neve (Buia) •Santuario Cristo di Timau •Santuario Madonna delle •Santuario S. Maria ad () Grazie (Udine) Melotum (Buia) •Santuario Madonna del •Santuario Beata Vergine del •Santuario della Madonna Sasso () Carmine (Udine) del Monte (Cividale del •Santuario Santa Maria delle •Santuario S. Maria Friuli) Grazie () Annunziata (Udine) •Santuario Beata Benvenuta •Santuario di Santa Maria •Santuario S. Lucia (Udine) Boiani in S. Domenico Maggiore (Pontebba) •Santuario Madonna del (Cividale del Friuli) •Santuario della Madonna di Ponte () •Santuario Madonna Castel Monte (Prepotto) •Santuario Madonna del dell’Aiuto () •Santuario Madonna di Sasso (Villa Santina) •Santuario Auxilium (Raveo) Cristianorum (Forgaria nel •Santuario Madonna del Friuli) Carmine (Reana del Rojale) •Santuario S.Antonio di •Santuario Madonna di Padova (Gemona del Friuli) Strada (San Daniele del •Santuario S.Maria del Friuli) Fossale (Gemona del Friuli) •Santuario Madonna di •Santuario della Madonna Taviele (San Giovanni al delle Grazie () Natisone) 40 ABBEYS AND MONASTERIES SESTO AL REGHENA: BENEDICTINE ABBEY OF SANTA MARIA IN SYLVIS

Founded in the first half of the the abbot’s residence (now the from the Longobard period; a 8th century, the Benedictine town hall), the abbatial chancery 15th-century sandstone Pietà, Abbey of St Mary in Sylvis was and the rectory. attributed to a German master. destroyed by the Hungarians in The basilica, built to a Roman- The abbey welcomes individuals 889. It was rebuilt, fortified, with esque-Byzantine plan (three and small groups for spiritual the look of a mediaeval castle naves, underground crypt and a meetings. and a defence system of towers raised presbytery), is decorated and moats. Remains of the an- with a cycle of frescoes by the INFO: cient abbey include the entrance school of Giotto (1316-1320). In Abbazia Benedettina Santa Maria in Sylvis tower, which dates back to the the crypt is the urn of St Anasta- TEL. +39 0434 699014 late 15th century, the basilica, sia, a magnificent monument [email protected] www.abbaziasestoalreghena.it 42 MANZANO: ROSAZZO ABBEY

The history of this ancient abbey The abbey church was built in of a number of native grape vari- is a long and complex. It has the Romanesque style in approx- eties. It still has its historical cel- hosted several different religious imately the year 1000; there are lar, which dates back to the 13th orders over the centuries and traces of the various renovations century and is the oldest cellar was even turned into a fortified carried out over time, with archi- of Friuli Venezia Giulia. Today stronghold in the Middle Ages. tectural elements from different the abbey is the venue for cultur- periods. The name Rosazzo de- al events and exhibitions and it rives from the wild roses which welcomes individuals and small INFO: flourish hereabouts. The abbey groups for spiritual meetings. Rosazzo Abbey TEL. +39 0432 759091 also played an important role Overnight stays are possible, www.abbaziadirosazzo.it over the centuries in the survival contact the abbey. 43 MOGGIO UDINESE: SAN GALLO ABBEY

The Benedictine Abbey of San and still has many fine works of used for exhibitions. The abbey Gallo was founded in 1085 and art including an 18th-century or- welcomes individuals and small was a very important monas- gan and some beautiful wooden groups for spiritual meetings. tery in the Middle Ages. Today sculptures, especially an enor- it is an enclosed convent of the mous painted walnut Christ dat- INFO: Poor Clares. The present abbey ed 1466. Be sure to see the ele- San Gallo Abbey church was built in 1761. It has gant Benedictine cloister and the TEL. +39 0432 51510 a single-nave, rectangular hall mediaeval tower, which is now 44 POFFABRO (FRISANCO): SANTA MARIA ANNUNCIATA BENEDICTINE MONASTERY

This convent was founded very ligious sisters who have taken recently (1998) in a large stone permanent, solemn vows; they INFO: house built in the style charac- live active lives, including mak- Benedictine Convent teristic of Poffabro, which is on ing herb teas, jams and medici- of Santa Maria Annunciata TEL. +39 0427 78022 the list of Italy’s Prettiest Villages. nal herb infusions. The convent [email protected] The tiny religious community is welcomes individuals and small [email protected] currently composed of eight re- groups for spiritual meetings.

PROSECCO (TRIESTE): SAN CIPRIANO BENEDICTINE MONASTERY

The Convent of San Cipriano in cycled materials and includes Prosecco has a community of a chapterhouse, a small chapel nuns who moved there in 2012 for meditation, a refectory, and a from the convent of the same library which currently has more INFO: name on the Colle di San Gius- than 10,000 books. The convent Convent of San Cipriano to (St Just’s Hill). The building welcomes individuals and small TEL. +39 040 630148 is made almost entirely of re- groups for spiritual meetings.

MONTEGNACCO (CASSACCO): CARMELO DI SAN GESÙ DI NAZARETH MONASTERY

The convent is on the hills of the leads a simple life in the spirit of terminal moraine of the River the House of Nazareth. The nuns INFO: Tagliamento, along the old road make communion wafers for Convent of Montegnacco that led over the Alps. Founded the whole diocese. The convent TEL. +39 0432 851437 in 1965 by a native-born nun of welcomes individuals and small [email protected] Friuli, the convent’s community groups for spiritual meetings. 45 CELEBRATIONS, PASSION PLAYS AND RE-ENACTMENTS

•S. Messa dello Spadone - •Sacra Rappresentazione del •Pilgrimage to Maria Luggau Cividale del Friuli (UD) - 6 Venerdì Santo - Cicconicco (Austria) - from . January: an evocative special di (UD): costume A traditional pilgrimage on Mass with costumed players: passion play held on Good foot that the community the deacon, wearing a helmet Friday in the hills around the of Forni Avoltri undertakes with red and white plumes (the village of Cicconicco. annually on the last Saturday municipality’s official colours) •Via Crucis Vivente del Venerdì of June to seek the protection carries out a triple blessing Santo - (PN): Way of the of the Madonna of Luggau. using patriarch Marquando’s Cross costume procession •Perdon di Barbana - Grado Spadone, a mid-15th-century through the village streets (UD) - first Sunday in July: sword. accompanied by the traditional votive procession of boats •Messa del Tallero - Gemona “Batacos” which are struck at from Grado to Barbana. del Friuli (UD) - 6 January: each passing hour. •Martyr Saints Hermagoras - Aquileia three processions - with •Paschalia - various regional and Fortunatus participants in mediaeval localities - Lent and Easter: a (UD) - 12 July: Mass in the costumes - meet under season of choral church music patriarchal basilica of Aquileia, the town hall loggia before of every period and style on concelebrated by the bishops proceeding to the Duomo, Lenten and Easter themes. of Friuli Venezia Giulia, Veneto, where the capitano del popolo Held each year in various Slovenia and Austria. (today the mayor) offers the churches in the region. •Festa della Beata Vergine della thaler to the officiant as a Neve - (UD) - sign of temporal power’s •Bacio delle Croci - Zuglio 5 August : solemn procession submission to spiritual power. (UD) - Ascension Sunday: of the wooden statue of the The tradition of this kind of in the pieve of San Pietro in Blessed Virgin of the Snow, religious theatre dates back to Zuglio all the silver crosses which is transported on the the 19th century. from churches in the valleys river from the centre of the of Carnia are brought to village to the little church of •Epifania Tarcentina - Tarcento bow to the cross in the main - 6 January : a procession in the Beata Vergine della Neve parish church as a symbol of in Titiano. mediaeval costume proceeds brotherhood and submission ˇ ˇ from the centre of Tarcento to the church that was the •Smarna Misa - Prato di Resia to the ruins of Coia Castle, heart of early Christianity in (UD) - 15 August: this is the where the traditional Pignarul Carnia. most important religious (bonfire) is lit to bring good celebration in the Resia valley. •Rogazioni di San Floriano - luck to the new year. It is held around the pieve Illegio (UD) - first days in May: (parish church with baptistery) •Epiphany firework displays - a pilgrimage on ancient paths of Santa Maria Assunta. The various localities - 5-6 January: to commemorate the day of day starts with a High Mass bonfires in all the villages the martyrdom of St Florian. in honour of the Assumption around the region, illuminating •Festa di San Vito - Marano of Mary then continues with a the landscape with a magical Lagunare (UD) - third Sunday procession behind a precious glow to banish bad memories in June: procession of 16th-century wooden statue of of the past year and bring good decorated motor boats, with the Virgin and Child. luck to the new one. the biggest fishing boats, to •Perdon di - Teor (UD) •Rappresentazione del Venerdì the centre of the lagoon. The - beginning of September : Santo - Erto (PN): from the boats form a circle around one Mass followed by a procession mid-17th century Erto holds a which carries the statue of St through the village streets to Good Friday costume passion Vitus, followed by the blessing celebrate the devotedness to play of the Passion of Christ. of the sea and the boats. the Virgin of the Holy Belt. 46 NATIVITY SCENES

•Fiera dei Santi - Rivignano Grado (GO) - mid-December Sesto al Reghena (PN) - (UD) - end of October/early to mid-January: festival of 24 -26 December (once every November: the Saints’ Fair nativity scenes on the streets two years): a “living” nativity is one of the region’s oldest of the town. scene with 250 participants festivals; it started because Poffabbro (PN) - and 25 tableaux. here in the past sadness and mid-December to mid-January: Trieste (TS) - during the silence were replaced by a “Presepe tra i presepi” - Christmas period: “Il presepio great celebration. Dancing, display of nativity scenes on parlante” a “talking nativity music and a big market that the streets, in courtyards, at scene”, a re-enactment of fills the village streets, plus windows and on balconies the Nativity lasting about 15 the keenly-awaited Festival in one of Italy’s Loveliest minutes and including scene mondiale della canzone Villages. changes, plays of light and funebre (world festival of Polcenigo (PN) - storytelling. funeral songs). mid-December to mid-January: Cividale del Friuli (UD) - open •Traditional pageant of floating nativity scene on the throughout the year: historical St Nicholas and the Krampus water of the Gorgazzo river nativity scene belonging to - Tarvisio and environs - head. the Ursulines, with mid-19th- 5 December: a tradition of (UD) - century wax-and-tow figures Tarvisio and other places in the mid-December to mid-January: (UD) - open throughout surrounding area nativity scene centred around the year: Teno nativity scene - (in Pontebba they’re called the ancient Cramars, the street highly detailed reconstruction Spitz Parkli) dating back to traders of Carnia who travelled of the village of Sutrio and of the 16th century. The bishop all over Europe. Carnia. - who usually brings presents in (UD) Trieste (TS) - open throughout for the children - is contrasted - beginning of December the year: Museo del Presepio by four krampus or devils in a to mid-January: “Rassegna - a museum with some 150 portrayal of good and evil that dell’arte presepiale in Friuli nativity scenes of different creates a feeling of mystery. Venezia Giulia”. More than sizes and materials. •Messa dello Spadone - 100 nativity scenes made of Aquileia - 24 December: a various materials. Mass held on Christmas Night (UD) - in the basilica of S. Maria mid-December to mid-January: Assunta in Aquileia, during giant nativity scene carved in which the deacon wears part sand. of a suit of mediaeval armour and blesses the four cardinal points in remembrance of the ancient patriarchate’s entire territory. •Nativitas - various places in FVG - November/December: choir festival of traditional Christmas songs, held every year from Advent and throughout December in the region’s churches and theatres. 47 HOW TO GET HERE

BY CAR BY AIR BY TRAIN Motorways Trieste Regional Airport www.trenitalia.it A4 Torino - Trieste 40 km da Trieste e Udine Call Center 89.20.21 A23 - Udine - Tarvisio 15 km da Gorizia A28 Portogruaro - 80 km da Pordenone www.aeroporto.fvg.it

FAX-SIMILE