hr~mclariclis t ~ourldSly fr~~r.si~crt.tl ~lic)rul~taiils. ant1 tl1t.y Trcl L11al they inltst IIO~lcnve it. I'lrcis crcatioti 111yt11 nlalccs the Sal-njo n being nit11 ur&$ils i11 tllc ci~rth,and cvcqllling they tl~i111~or d~) or cruiiic reflects tliis or-igi~r. Spider TT'onlnla, onc of the 1loly Puople ldlo lerl tlie Nm-rljo ul) out of the carlh, is ospc~-i;illyirnpc~rt;in t in Xi~vajoITI~~~IO!( IL!~ hccausc sllc taught tl~cnl!low tcr weavc. To thc N~irajo,lllc act tif ~vcavitlgwas a spirit~ualact, a way of rntddnq rcal and csprcssirig i~~tcrinr,rli~iric tmtlis. Spitler Rbi~ianwas a sc lnrcc ofir~spirntion for- the Sa~njo\x7otllcr1 I\-IEO ~-cI.L'all\-ays the wcnvcrs ill tl~eii- culLure. 1,ittlc- qiirls (lid nut cllousc to lea~~lhow to tvcuz-c: all !vonlen u-o~-c,ancl fi~rncnrlicst itlfi~~lc.ylit tlc gil-Is, ~wol)l)c~l~p i~ Il~circrutllcs, n-at chcti t llcir mot hers ivc'at-e. X qirl clliltl IC~TLICC~ lo wcaw as S~B~C~~TIIC'II Lo\i+~illi a~icl titlk - ~lal~lnllly.Accorcliliq to Ka~-cjolcgund, 1~11c11n hahy girl \lTas hnri~,tlic pal-cnts had t)mi111 ,q;~vt, n-cu\.ing irzstsllctivlls, but SIF~I~ET,\li111 SIIO\VC(~ t IIC Kava-jo IIO\V to co~isiructtlieir. loo~ns.rntcrAeslit~gly, each l{)o111is mn(1e lo or-clcr- to the sy~ecificsize of each 1)larll~ct. firs^, tivo 11r jsts urc sct zlprigllt in the qr-orlntl. hcltl irl pliicc 111; I;u-gCstollcs. Tlicri l~cml-t~r; arc It~sli~tl1101-izolrtally at tlic to11 at1.c-l t,oitom to L~rni:I rcctu~lgul;tt-frLime. A~otl~cr pr~ir- ( 11' hc l~-i~c)~lti~I11c:uns 11 olds t ~FC wcavialg. 'I'hcsc arc firsi ~,lacutlOII thc grn~t~lcland thc IK~) t hrcads - tllc 1-crtical thi-cads illat cktunrzine thc lunqth iultl l,rer~dtl~of the l~lniikct- arc stnang it1 il lig~ii-c-right cc jtifignmliot~l)ctwec~i tllc ~IVCI~CUIIIS. miis is then rr~isctlimcl attacllcrl ii~siclethe frame - not tlircctly 10 111~l~c;~i~l. 11111 to ;I tunsiuxi pcrlc 111.1~11)~ ro1)t' six to tc11 ii~~licsl~clnw tllc upper slrl,pot-t t,catn. 'l*hc 1owc1-~arp Ileam is ticrl rlircctly to tllc Iowcr sulq~cn-thcam. ,Wcs the warp il~rcadsart. i11 pZacc, tlic tu--o stt-ing hurldlcs uscti to r-aisc or- lcnrci- ~IICIII ai-c mnrlc, The Iledtllcs arc tlscd to open ;i L L sl~et-l,"or- tcrtlpot-an spacc 11ctwcc11thc two 1>1;i11csof ~viu.p ttircads tllrt )ugh ivllicll tl~cwcf( yrl111 passes. Encli sllctl i.; llcltl rqwtl 1,y iusurtitlg a hattet~- a n-idc. flat stick .Uier- [he Fni has prissctl tliroagl~tl~c open shurl, 111rr 1):ltlcn is ~-c~~iovctlatlrE the yarn is pllsllctl it1 tr) 111ar.cwif 11 ;I \~~il~iil~co111h 01- ;1 hit wit11 tllc hattul~.l'hc Sa~a-jowonaan toolr gc~oilctisc of. hul- I oc ,Is - paficlll~l~~dhc~ I.)iltt~11, tl~tXl(( SC~Kil'iltCITT117) illl(1 itl~~l-tWl'ft - nllrl thc rnct~~irig,rot1111 lll~lt11-as rlsctl to \)cat Ihc weft illto place. 'Shcsc. tr )c 11sIvcrc consitlcscrl s~~cr-cclatlcl ivcru Tr-r1111crllly 1)assccl tloil-ti li-om gcnrraliot~tc~ gcrlc~.atinn.

111 Irni-rrl ~~r.cutElcr-tilt, 100111 was plnccri outsiclc OIC rkwr vf Itlc y a11-- ;!TO TIC SaK!ir, loo~~~ dwcIling placc or hogan, u sinlcturc r rF,grc;~tspit-itual I b~t115 11~, I\) )I]< 11\:.I +{jrl~< si~riific;incc.'I'lic t.ritr:~uoc al\x-;-lzysfaccrl cast. ttnvasc~stllc risiilq san. Il~ehogan was shnpcd likc a cnnc clr~rlhad a llolc irl thle IT )r)f for stnolorl sllir-it s t n ciiter ant1 had to cscnpe. Navajlr socicty wi.r~s~natrilirlcal and ~nat~-iloc;~l.011~ Iraccd 01~'s dcscc~lttl~rouqll t11c mot3ius and 1ivc.t l war tlic tilotl~cr.'l'herc w ** \\-as no jckint ( nvr~crship(if prsy~crty. anrl taslrs wcrc strictly rlivirlerl 1,:- ssx. Shccp and ~LKIISn*crc o~vned ant1 iakt.11 curt r )f the ~\~c>mc.n;horses and rnz~lcshy allr ~ncu.121~';dth was COUII~KC~ in 11uml)crsor sli cc ) ;111( I IIC~CISof llorscs, \\-ifll t11c SIIUCII;111(1 go:its ~-cprcsci~tiizgI.oo~l ~li1~1 itlc0111~ ant1 illc Ilol-scs nlol)ili(y. Men rlitl tlzc work in the tjclrls ai-ld huilt the lioqnn; thc \?-omcii rlccr,raterl all(! f~z~-~lisllcrlthe hoq~izul aizd took urirc of it. :\s n-ca\-et-sant1 thc owzcrs uf'qoals atirl sliecl), Sawjo wronlen 11clrl an j~npuriant pli~ct.in thcil- r.tili~~re,711c rnagniGcezli blanlcci s tRtq ~vovccottld not Ilin-c bccn crcnlrd 1)y ;i~iyonc~vlir) had thc sliqhlest clottl~tof' liur irlcrltily. As thc Navajo ivruiw1i IC;II-TICCI thuir \\-ccwing techtliqnes fiotn (llc , ..,

Plic\,ln, they were eqosetl LO b~tlzthe will a~ltlti~l~c~tt? 'I. . . I" ,, ,. . mcthods ofwca\?ng. Hccausc it ~llo\vcdk)r- ~lior-c 11sc of color a-ld gr~~leriilclix~dt~ril ~ot~t.i-fiI 17y the WI'C~YCT,they PTU~CT'C~'C~k I 11sethc tape st^ tccliliic~~~c.In this tuchniclne, Il~eylr-11s al-c wr>Tetz i11 sccti{.)nsIhr-11 arc tlcft~lcd111; the rcach of the wca\-cr. nr~tc;~~tricrl fr-orn ctlgc to cdgc by n shuttle. l\licn ortc area is fi~~isl~ed,it is col~rrcrctcdto thu next scctiotl by hits of crz~ tvound togctltws on Ihc rlLqona2. 'TIIEs~joi t~irlgsarc \lsil)le in the hlankuts nnrl arc caller1 "lazy lines." ,sklthungh thc N;i~,:!ic~~r~lllcrl tl~ciz sheep, thyknew ~notllingof* thc IW~Sof hrecrliii~for liig11-~111ality~voul. I li~irconstat~t raiding of Spanish ~111dJ'uct )lo stoc.k, lic)~~cvcr;kept Nn~~!_ioherds in goocl shape. 'fl~cSlwtlislz had illtro(11lcctl to tlir Xe~r\\'orlrl Cllrltso shcey,, a lzartly hrccd fliai produccci fi~ir-c111nlity 11-001. 'Ihe Navqjn n-eavcs. sbcq>flock, ;~t~clIrt bgan, c:il.c.a l!)?tj Naviiu sherirt.cI their sheep \r.iIl~cast Icnivus, a mcthod that was 17 I1.R 11:51 bll~5l~.l'>lt )I- SL\Y >IEXIfO, 5 \s-l:,l1-11 Ilarclly likely to ~~rnx-irleIhc Iclr~gfiI)crs necclcd fi)r \~c.;~vi~zc,\vclI 51-:1; Yl I ;+.;,klIs ititc) tllc i~inctcciitltc-cntllry. T3y 1Ilc utlrI of tlic centlli~,thc trnrlcrs iiitroducetl shcui-s, and shomrers ;~Tsoarsivccl to Iic.1~).

I71c fleecc from flit Chnrrv shcc1I \\.:IS rclalivcly c-lc;ul, so iz was ort.t.11jnst s1inku11 clut ittlrl pickcci clcnu. mtl~crthat1 waslled. ,Wcr it mns spt113, IIC~V~YC~,(11~ ivot)l (lid 11;1\~to I )C iv;1~11~(1 bufure clycing so that tllc 11!+cwoulcl slick, U;~tcr-mas pr~cinns, so ns litllc as possiZ,lr: was ~tsccl.Snap was prel~iretlfrom tllc dried rc~tsof the yucca plant. Zlic wool was cal-clctl n+iLll l)ntsl~ rnadc oi'thisrlc ljurrs ticcl to a i~oorlci~fr-n~alc. illlllough shcarinq, crircling, and washir~qructlir ~1shaw hcc11 rtloder-mize~l,spiniiitig cuo~itit111cs tnclay if1 ~IIEtmrlitir~tirzl Sayjo fashion -~x-itl~out a spinr-iinq n-hccl. '111~spiiincr iiisteud uscs a sli~~dlcr~ladc of awe( )den shaft ~vilh;i \~~c#)rlciiclisc rlttnuhcc~ ouc-fi)urlll of thc \yay up tl~cslian. 'Ile spiilt~crsits 011 the grc,uncl with oslc end (,f the spilldlc rcsting on the grc ,1111tl and ~lzr's11aft against her right tlliglrg. Usirig 11cr-tli igh fill- levclagc. slzc rolls bltc spiiidlc wit11 her light l~aticl.??lc !-an1 is fon~lctlhy d~cpnlling ailti t~vistingcz~nsed by thc I-()lling. '171rcc sl ~i~i~ii~igs are nucrlctf to t~inkt.c? str-olig ctlollgl~FIT-11 to fort11 t 11 e Iraq) m~d weft threads firr the ~~caving.TFlc ~~IYTis ;~llma!.s sii~glc-yrhy~S~I it must l~cvct~ strc3rrg. Errc~wr)man, cvcn thosc trjo olrl tb1- yolitlg to tx-cnw, cnulrl help wit11 1Tlc pmccsscs tlcccssarv to prcT,nre thc yarn Tor weaving. In the carlicst hlntllcets, hrowi~,white, and t~lucarc fl~cinaiii colors. I3romn fi11~1~vl~itc ;KC natnral wool colors, a~irltli e hllic is tlyetl ti'itli i~idigo.Rctl, yrllmv, ant1 ~SCCIIarc also fonird. TICrcd is ~lstially\\70~7ci~ fi-otr~ hayetrl, thc Sl;ll;mis'l~or ,herjcall fli-lnncl trttcle clod1 that the Nawiu ~lnrr-l~.elt.tl10 tlsc in tlleit- oxvri cr-catio~is. 'nic ycl lows wurc prnd~iccrlCram nntil-c dyes, and the greens 1,y uom1,iuing nat ivc rlyes with iindigo. I11 (lit: late 1860s anrl 1#7Os, 1 he ini rt ,tInction of s~71tl1etic t lyes expanded the color 1-;1ngc cli-mt~atically. rlltho~lqhCElc Nuv+jo corrtin~it.r'lto produce thcir- ~IYIIhandspun yn-n, thu In.cspIln yrtls that wurc first 111nnufaot tlsrd in il~cearly nind ecnth ocnl ury n~nrlcrrcaving much c..;tsicrfi )r ilrc Na~gc)- ccrlainly simp1t.r tlzali spin~iingt 11e yarn 01- nllmrclinq 1,ayctri. <'c)n,the ccrlr~r~alcttc t=~atirIerl. Saxony ymls wcrc pt+ol,ably first importccl irom Englantl ant1 u-cre receivcd hy the .Na~-ztjo arotlnd 182C). Saut )ny yt11-11s were thmc-j)ly and c.olort.cl xvitlr natu 1.~11 ~lycsIllat gavc thc !an] a decp, lich color. TI1c S;nrqio mcre especially p:u~-tial to tllc red, which l~lcndcd~vr.cll with hay~tii.SZLYOII~ tt>d:~y refers to ally Knyjo hlarlket rnatjc xvitll a ct'.Pttrple anr1 OT";~II~CI>CCRIIIC sr~c~ial fa~nritcs.'Il~cse fottr-~dy ?art] s were ir~trodllucdit1 1875 arltl were in coinprioii usu in tlic 1880s and IH!)Os. Ihring this pcr-iorl, ton. thc n'av;~.iorlsctl sytlthctic dyes supplied I)! tkc trwlcrs to dyc thcir 011-11 hundsp~zny:lrn. 'Ihc prcsptrn ~ms:uld synthctiu d!~srt-cccl Ihcm to clcvclop niorc clahor;~ic,colod~il dcsigns. l'tifod zltlatcly, ho~rc~cr,the carly syntlletic dyes 15-ere unstal>lc, and many nt,qs of this period I~avt.fiidetl. T3ut r bthcr faotin-s comhiiicd to influence the progress of Nawjo \f7ea\5ngin the ninetcentlr cenh~ry.nurill$ the settling of tl~c Arrlerican iVcsl, the Na\wic) prt~vcdUTIC CI~ the must diBcult pcoplcs to control. Iltr- mountai~ls.'Jllc rcscn-atic UI sct ttp for t 11c Sax-ajo was greatly rcclucutf i11 six,Ijut tlic govcniinci~tugrccrl to priy (hc Navajo $150,000 ill cash [mtl to give ihu tril~115,OC)O sllccp anrl 500 lietad of cattle t~3rcl)I;-1ct' tllc ~Ic~-i~~~;lfcd11crds. TIIC rri~~tTOdrir(ion c,T s11ct.11 s~~ii~~ccl~~ca~inff, alltl the nuwly settlccl Navajrl WOIII~II \.cn-c hlankcts lo 1);il-ier :md scEl at llic tracling posts sct up on d~ercscl~atir Ins. I11 trrt y~u-s,ilic Xar-qio lind prospcrcd 311(1 gr(.)wtl Fro111 a sickly hand- nT6,000 to morc lt~rtrz13,000. 'Ihcir Iict-rls now hnastctl i 00,000 sheep. ils the Iicsrlt; crCn.,111o1-c laiir111-as incctlcd for gnuitig, anrl thc govcrtlmcnt incrcnscd tllu size of (hc rcscn-r~tion Ijy !352,000 ncscs. I\1ic.n tl~crajlroatl c-;mlc tllr-o~~~ghSavqjo counw in 1882, it assured tlii~tn'avctjn 11-ool and ~~~o~cntcstilrs \\~~uIclrnukc their- \yay TO eaqcr. 1)rrycrs in thc E:ar;l. Tlrc history oFT\;avqjo n-earirzq blankets is all cm)l~.i~~goiic: as new si~lcs~mcl clesigns rmcr~crl,tllc old stylcs rwrc ilui rorgoltcn, 111lt we]-c creatccl nlotlg ivith the nclvcr ~l)~les,TTntil late ill thc iiinetecnth cc~zt~irv.t hcrc i~crc11o rcgior~nlstyles. I'l'cavers i~iCYC~ st'ctio~l of Sil~;!j~la~~dI\-OYC ill ttll tl~cvariolls sblcs. 'Tlrc thrcc styles of k~la~~llocapcs. '11~t.s~hlanlrcts ivcm n-c )rlrerl iritlt t hc st~-il)cs pariillcl to tl~cx~cfi, ~IIC~ we]-u ~vidcr llln~l the!, 1vc1-c Iligh. hltliullgh tlierc \+--ereno Sa~yciochiufs. hesc hlarlkcts wcrc t~iglllyprizctl hy thc Plnit~sItitlinns, a11c1may Iiar'c hem callctl (:hief hIanlcets I)ec:n~sePlains 1rlrIin11chick lilrt-d to wcnr fhcnl. lllc st ri1)cs in the %st I'hase blarlkcts wcru dark brown ancl 1111it.e lvilh an i~ldigo1)lut. st~-il)cplnctrtl ai ihc cctlicr- liricl crirls, As the stylc evol~crl,narrow 1 ):ln(ls r)f'i)r~yctatr-ir~~mctl tllc ir~cliqn stripes. I11 the Sccond PFr asu (-1licf hlanlcarailcc nP tlic scctanglc mo~ifis nil inflrlcnce ficlnz t11 e Spailisll Serape, as the diamonds that cmcrgc in tl~cZlzinl I'llase Cl~ief'blunlccismcbst c.crti~iinly arc. ;is Tliiril P1i:lsc I~lnnkctsi)u$~n to cvolvc (Illr-illg tllc C'~;ISS~C period. small, step~,cd,rrtl half-(Iiamondsbegan to cmcrgc from the rectangles. IJlltis style I)ccamc clominant LLIIC~111~' classic period, F,ct\vccn 1Xrj.S ant1 1875, Ilt~t311 t hruc C:l~icfstylcs arc still wmFent od;~y.??lc Third Il~ascChief Ulanlwt cventn;l~llyn7;1s donlinated ljy largc (iia~~ionclsthat mci :it tllc cticls ai~dtlit. rnidrllc of tt~cst~ipcs. 'I'l~is pattcl-11 is the most copictl of all Son-irl-law uf last Ndrajr, chid' (*OI.H'I.I~:SI:I~I. I.( 1s .W;CT.ES Ka~iiiorlesi~ns. NFl, Kt > ?!! 300 ,4ltl1ntrgll the rnt,mcll in Na\+a_iosocicty wcru alwics thc wc:ivcrs, frw sG1t.s uf druss wcrc tlicir cscltt sive prs q)c~* 'I71cp. \vr,x-e tllcir owrl Cliief 1,Ianl~ct s atrd Stripc and Sel-ape sL!*les oil ~t more 11irninuti1-c t~asis.?11c ~irro-pieucdrcss atlcl cal)c wcrc hnsutl on earlier I'uehlo rnotlcls, alttaot~~hilic 13uchln ~crsin~~mas one-piccc. 'llic t1.r-o-picccdress \vrts made of tvo irlwiilically woven sections sew-ll tugclhrf- acl-oss Ilic sliot~ldcr-sarlt I at Ihc sidcs. wit11 c, ~u~lings1cf1 fin- the Iluad ancl anns, The drcss nsually fell ok one sl~o~llrlerand \vt.;ts inid-calf in lenqtli. I[ 1~~1s sashetl at tllc ~vr-listwith a tvovcn hclt rn- silvcr or-r~amcnls.Thcsc d t-esstrs wrr-c a1 tnost ell-\\-ays rlai-k bro117n or blaclc and wcse trimmeti 117itIi indigo or l)ayet;~brinds. This clcsi~nrcnlairierl unchamgcd throughout thr: t~it~ctcetltlrcc~itun In this tnatt-ilitlcal sr)ciut?;, ivmncn, not men, were tllc conscryd t'I\'C tlrcssers. The Serape Stylle is the cmly sQ-lc of Nrlvajn \rcarin,qblanlrcl not ckectlv based on Pndjlo antcccdcnls. Insicarl, this style derives from Spanish n~~rlJZesican prcccrlcnts, particularly Tlndiar~ wcw-ing dcme in blcxico. '1%~ original scrape was ivoven in Saltjllo, Iz'lexico, and was riesigricd for wear- I,? gcr-ltlcmcn on horschack. I[ was madc up of two ~er-ticatsections scivn togeiller ort one lon,q side with an ylcninq lefl fi jr ihc IIEC~. Notctl hrits cle~~siiyof design atlcl ittle wcm.e, rIl~Saltillo Sern~jc featured a cent~nlmedallion or Inzcr~ge.'Ihe rncdallion rtiaIThrivc l~cet~a cksi,l elerrlcnt clr-airn from (:I~inesccloth imPnrtcri tn h1exiu.o lq. the S1)unish. Thc gcntllct~icfeatures of Spanish design pr-obaljly stem from ille Am11 iilx7;~sionoff' Sl~pain in the eigh~hccnlury. Tlnc Snwjo \\-ere irtipresscd \rith the ciianrond motifs of tl~c ' and into ~omtcdthem jn ciiffcrcn l IY;I~S in((r Ilicir hInr-lscTdl'L5 ccts. Sonle r)7 the most magnifircnt Sclxpc Style hlnnkets wcrc nto\tcnoi'hayc ta and incoq~or:~tc.titemtctlci Ljlarnoncl moiii'5 zigzags, arlcl rickrrlclc lincs tl~atwcrc rriocliflcations of Spanis11 niid 3Ie.uicnn dcsigns filtcrccl tl~rotql~tllc Savqjo scnsil~ility. ?'here Lvas iicvcs ii ccntur- diamt~nrlor mctlallion in lllc Nawjr) St3rq)c Style t~l;~tikcts,k~lt a11 all-OTCI-ticsig11 tlzat incorpnmated trianqular motifs. ?'hcse hlankets were prizctl, and wen \vl1cn Il'ifli fl~cincat-ccratinir of Ihc NII~I,~~at 13ost~nc. KC(IEFI~CIU all(I tllc corr~i~icoft hc (ra(1ersnnrI d~crslilrt~ad, tllc classir per-iocl citnlc to an end. Frn1111 his ti~~icOII, tlic l~lanl~cts~~mlti not rcflcut the illrli\-id~ialworlcl vicn- of thc wcnvcl; l~u!ofici~ the task cdirarlcrs tvit~gtc plc:~sc Illc ~lt.cc)r-ativr wliims of Iiasten~lir)uscwi\-cs. 71ic bcst cd'the trarlci-s on r 11c rcsi,nvnlirulI~i)(h prr 1tl.c-kc1 :~ntl pr-ornot~tlthc interests of tllc Sa\-qio. Tti the Irucling posts, t lic tratlers oftcn displnycd dcsig~lstllcy t,I~o~igl~t\VI'OU~C~ 1n;ilcc sllilable \rcr1~9ii,qsand c~?couragecltllc S;lr.r!jo tn i~inqloratc l~nrclcrt;:mtl oriclitiil tlwigns. (-Ithcrkaclcrs (Ic~iscclcatalogs of rfesigi~sand "solr1" itcnls that had yet 11)ht' I\.OVCII. Tlic introtl~lctionof syrthctic clycs ant1 IjrcsplIn yam hurl lctl to t11c wea\-inq of thc wcll-niit-lletl Eye-Tlrtz~lcr l>lanlcct~.1iec.t.s Ilia[ incoq~or-atcrlc\-c:r~ ctrlrlr 01' Ihc raillbun. in ~~ild,tnergctic (1csig~is.Ston11 motifs werc cort~lnrm, urrrl nlatiy inc.r111)orrltctIa ''p~ilICCI n'aq~,"or ~vcdgc-~vca~ctccl~niquc tlint gtvc the. cffi-ct c,f' jag& bolts nfligli~ning.Tllc IICW clys rilso Ictl to changes in the Sc,~iq)cStvlc. C:rclsscs, pine trees, splil di;in~r~iicls,Icss-than- rcgttlar ccygcs, nr~rEtt.mi~c~tl stxipcs ill lurgc p;ltt~~-nsCC)TCI-C(I 112~ sufidccs ot'tl~csclatcr Scr:tpc Style I~la~ilw~s.

7hc gifi c~fSlanlwt s of JTcxicu11 and Sc~vJlc?cic:ui {,rigin 1111 t1-i~ Navajo ~vlrilctlicy wcrc prisoners at Uosc~ucRcrlnr~rlc~ pl.oIlai~ly fed to the dcvelnpn~cnt )f tli c 13antlerl Style. 11-1lic.hlargclj- replact.cl thc. Strip€ Hln111rc.t.nailds n-ill1 riiffrrc111cltlsiqn motifs morlwcl in tllcrir ivrsc s+rrangcdin altcrnalinrj ~IITTS. ??IC %ijl%i~G mutiftl~atofte11 appcm-ctl tvitllill tllc bu~itlswas a prcctlrsor oi tllc wcrlqe-wcavc teclinirlue.

'Ihc use of Gcim:ln ttn-11 Far11 clari rig tt tis I )c,~-iorlrrccrl Ihc wcavcr to conslnlcl more cIa11or;itc clcsiqtls and csectltc thcin ~vilh mccharlicdl pcrrccl ion. :Is ill e hlan kcts twcamu popular tmtlu items, lhcy were used ns lap rol-~cs,pillo~~r covers, licdsprcads, nilcl ~+ugs,atlrl tllcir size and clesigns changcrl to suit these ilew Saxtio \VC>IIICII+circa 1935 nses. ( )f(cn, sc~w-nlwcnvcr-s IT~II lcl worlr r )li r rrlc large 1)iccr. t'll(~lYIrrH.\PIl lll~Xl~~O.5.\ST,\ K Ilt~ringchis iirne also, f~ictorialimages of trailis, cn~vs,11ir-rls, aiirl XI:(; st 1 :<: 1 I Ictters entere~lthe N;IK!~O C~CS~R~Ipiclurc, t)re;~ki~~gtllr: a1)stsa~t t~i~lition.Eventllally 111~1nitfr1-s 1-rt.r-sr~xIerl thc Sava-jij ]lot to use llic g:lt-ish co1or.s cnmnlrm to the T~yc-I):azless by refitsiilg to h~tpthcm. They insistcd that the Xnvtlju stick to srclak hlacks, brclxvns, greys, and \\'llil~~.li~t'11c~1 111) orlly I)? a 1011cll of rcd. Sucll is thc p(m.cr-of popular taste. To tlleir crerlit. tl~ctrridcrs rlernanrlcd that Llle Sii\-i!jo ~vs~+\-it~g11~lec11nicalBy pcrkct. 'Thr: emphasis shirtcrl frnnz 11 I-il1iance oftlcsign to skill of excc~lt ion, ant1 for t tic most part, that empl~asisrei~lains tnlc loday. The ~1cDcrmott Cr,llection of Nawjc~HIUIIICE~ s i-~tLjallas Plll~lic I,ihr-ay is one nf Ilrc largest cnllectiotls of Ni~\~qj~wcarhg hlankcts nn tiisplay in tllc 11-orld. The collectioii c;ipt~~rcsthe inkgr:+tir)n c3L' spirit, lanilsu~q)~,ancl wcavur inhercn t ii i the hcst oC Inrlian tcxtilc art. 'llic c-tlcl-gy and uxpertise c~idtrntin thesc hIatlkets speak to a perfcut union hct\~cenw~rk ailcl I\-orlicr, art mid artist, that is vfierl laclcing ill tlicsc clays of Ids~srctime and asscnibll; li~les.TIlc Nilpio n-nr~~ctlwllo wox-r thcse hlatlkets mere at onc with their en\ironrncnt and their \vc )rk ant1 they created objects (1.r g~cail)o\rcr and l~eatlty.n'c car1 learn much from stuclying ~IICSC ~CSSOIIS frnm T~ECJ);~sI.