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FORT SISSETON vvJ

STATE PAR J rarr.N.S.C. HISTORY AND TOUR GUIDE

NATIONAL REGISTER OF HISTORICAL PLACES

SOUTH DAKOTA DEPARTMENT OF GAME. FISH AND PARKS DivISIon of Parks and Recreation NOrl h Dakota .,_ . . _ ._- -- - -. _ . . _ ., _ . South Dak ota 25 HISTORY OF FORT SISSETON

ort Sisseton, a military outpost for 25 years, stands as a F reminder of the conflicts between Indians and settlers on the western frontier The fort was established in 1864 to provide military protection of settlers in this new region. In 1862, some bands of Santee living along the Minnesota River, a short distance east of here, rebelled because 01 unfair trading practices, unkept treaty promises, and because settlers were homesteading their lands. This uprising, led by Chief , raged for five months. There were nearly 1,000 casualties and loss of homes and possessions for many more thousands during the uprising. It created panic on the frontier Settlements were abandoned to await the arrival of the military to secure the region. The tragedy ended with the conviction and execution of the ringleaders. Many Indians, whether or not they participated in the outbreak, fled in fear westward into . Gen. John Pope, commander of the Military Department of the Northwest, headquartered at Milwaukee, Wisconsin, proposed a series of forts, with patrols between these forts, as the best defense against further conflicts on the frontier Pope's Dakota campaign plan was to "sweep the region now occupied by hostile Indians north of a line from Fort Pierre to Fort Abercrombie." General Pope assigned one of his field generals, Henry H. Sibley, to head this assignment. After completing the "sweep," Sibley was to establish two forts, one near Devils Lake, 160 miles north of here, and another on the James River, 40 miles west of here. The latter fort was to be called Fort Wadsworth. Sibley, a trader with more than 20 years experience in the West before being called to military service, made a counter recommendation to General Pope. He suggested the head of the Coteau des Prairies (hills of the prairie) area as a fort site instead of the James River site. He thought the 600-foot rise above the plains could control the access to Lake Traverse, Big Stone Lake, and the Minnesota River valley. Sibley considered the Devil's Lake post unnecessary Many of the soldiers in Pope's command were ordered to fight in the Civil War, and Pope had too few men left to garrison a fort at Devil's Lake. Pope continued to insist on the fort site on the James River until a 1 CHIEF LITTLE CROW

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SAMUEL J. BROWN

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2 detachment of Sibley's command under Maj . John Clowney confirmed Sibley's report of the lack of timber on the James. After investigating the head of the prairie hills, Clowney selected this site on the south side of the Kettle Lakes for the fort. At the time, water in the chain of lakes surrounded the fort site, allowing passage only from the south. Clowney was convinced the site was good because of its natural defenses, the abundance of lake water for drinking, the thick stands of trees on the lakeshore, and other natural resources. On August 1, 1864, he sent a messgae to his headquarters which ended, "I have today located Fort Wadsworth." The reservation was ultimately 9 by 15 miles and contained 82,000 acres. Horses were considered as valuable as men for survival on the frontier, and the first building constructed was a log stable with a roof of

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branches and slough grass. Within two months, a mule-powered steam sawmill was in operation. By 1866 the unit had been replaced by a 20- horsepower steam sawmill. The lime and fine clay for making bricks and an abundance of field stone for building purposes were some of the natural resources that impressed Major Clowney These materials may be seen in the beautiful stonework and uniquely colored brick structures that were built to replace the unhewed log facilities. The light coloring of the bricks is caused by an absence of iron in the clay. Part of Sibley's command was a group of Indian scouts led by Joseph R. Brown, chief of scouts. Brown, like Sibley, was well acquainted in the vicinity He had operated area trading post~ and had earned the confidence and friendship of the Sisseton-Wahpeton Indians. He located his scout headquarters about one mile east of Fort Sisseton. Shortly after establishing scout headquarters, Joseph R. Brown secured an appointment as the first sutler, or trader, at Fort Wadsworth. 3 He built his trading post near the east entrance of the sod breastworks and ditch that enclose the lO-acre fort grounds. In 1866 he moved the 20- by 50-foot log headquarters to Browns Valley, Minnesota. Today it serves as a museum for some of the Brown family artifacts. Samuel J Brown was the son of Joseph R. Brown who had married a Sisseton. In 1866, Sam rode into history alongside other heroes of

Meat from the anteiope hangs beside the tent to dry at this Fort Sisseton Indian scout camp. Twenty such outposts served as early warning stations for the fort. frontier America. As chief of scouts, he rode 120 miles in a snowstorm to alert an outpost of an impending attack by hostile Indians. The ride left him paralyzed. Sam Brown retired to his father's log house in Browns Valley to spend his remaining years. The event is recalled on panels in the post museum. There were about 20 outlying scout camps that served as warning stations for Fort Wadsworth. Each camp was manned by several Indian scouts and their families. The scouts proved to be brave and loyal soldiers. Some of their field experiences are recalled on panels in the fort's museum. Perhaps the greatest threat to peace in the area was created in the late 1870's by a band of Yanktonais Sioux led by Chief Joseph Drifting Goose. The chief and his roving band drew supplies from the reservation at Fort Thompson on the Missouri River during the winter months. In the spring, he would move his band to the Armadale Island area on the James River From this village site he could visit his friend Gabriel Renville, chief of the Sissetons,and would draw rations from the Sisseton Agency, east of Fort Sisseton. This nomadic band caused some concern to the garrison at Fort Sisseton, for they often harassed surveyors and settlers who trespassed on lands bordering the James River

4 In 1879, President Rutherford B. Hayes declared three townships of the James River as the Drifting Goose Reservation. One year later, the chief was allowed concessions to move his band to Fort Thompson, ending the last barrier to white settlement. Fort Wadsworth's name was changed to Fort Sisseton in 1876 because of the nearby village of Sisseton Indians and because the army discovered it had named another fort on Long Island, New York, Fort Wadsworth. Age, weather and the sometimes hasty construction were beginning to show on the fort's buildings. Several severe storms had damaged some structures beyond repair A 1873 windstorm with near-hurricane force broke more than 1,200 windows, ripped roofs from several buildings, and caused walls to collapse. Some repairs to the garrison were never made. By the mid-1870's, railroads were beginning to move into Dakota Territory, bringing scores of new settlers. The discovery of gold in the Black Hills by the Custer Expedition in 1874 and the conflict at Little Big Horn two years later quickly focused attention to this new western frontier The continued need for a facility like Fort Sisseton seemed remote. In a report in 1878, Capt. Clarence E. Bennett reported the water level in the chain of lakes surrounding the fort had dropped 12 feet in the past 12 years. He blamed the drop to the loss of trees that had been cut for lumber and fuel or destroyed by frequent prairie fires. The trees caught and held winter snows to fill the lakes with fresh water in the spring. A lower lake level exaggerated the drinking water problem at the post. The alkaline water became unpalatable during the hot summer and the

The row of cabins occupied by married soldiers was called Suds ville because many of the wives washed clothes for the garrison. This photo was taken about 1870. 5 troops had to rely on melted ice, cut from the lakes during the winter, for drinking. To add to these problems, putrid odors occurred from Hampson's Lake to the south of the post and the shallow pond to the west. The ground around the quarters became saturated with human waste from the nearby pit sinks (toilets) because no sewage disposal had been provided when the fort was built. But in spite of these conditions and the isolation of the post, frequent prairie fires, hot summers and severe winters, a doctor at the fort reported the general health of the men at the garrison was good. The fort was abandoned as a military outpost in 1889 after 25 years of operation. On June 1 the fort's last commander, Capt. Joe Hale, closed

the fort. The post had served the purpose for which it was established. Its presence had assured a peaceful settlement of this region of Dakota Territory On November 2, 1889, South Dakota gained statehood. The buildings and land at Fort Sisseton became the property of the new state by an Act of Congress. The 1959 legislature designated Fort Sisseton a state park. Today, the Department of Game, Fish and Parks is responsible for preserving this reminder of "frontier America."

6 FORT SISSETON WALKING TOUR

During your visit to Fort Sisseton you may wish to tour this historic frontier post. This guide has been prepared for your convenience. The map of the grounds is keyed to numbered paragraphs in this brochure. If you wish additional information, please contact the park manager or inquire at the visitor center.

SITE 1. NORTH BARRACKS This building contains the visitor center, lounge and program rooms. Originally designed to house two companies of soldiers (about 150 men), the building is 45 feet wide and 182 feet long. It is constructed of split fieldstone gathered from the vicinity. The porch was added to the barracks in 1885. When restoration of the building was undertaken by a Works Project Administration (WPA) crew in 1935, only the exterior walls and remnants of the interior walls were standing.

SITE 2. SOUTH BARRACKS The South Barracks is the same size as the North Barracks, however, the building never had an attached porch. Inside are visible wall mountings where the soldiers' bunks hung. Beginning in 1873, this building was used as storage for commissary and quartermaster supplies. When first established, the nearest commissary supply depot of the fort was St. Cloud, Minnesota, about 196 miles east of here. A 12- month stock of supplies generally WaS stored for the garrison.

SITE 3. OIL HOUSE Completed in 1888, the Oil House was used to store oils for lamps, machinery, and other needs of the fort. Stand on the sod mound breastworks, look about one mile east, and imagine another small outpost-the location of the Indian Scout Headquarters. The enclosure was about 100 feet square and was surrounded by 12-foot pointed posts. Inside the enclosure was a 20- by 50-foot log building built by Joseph R. Brown, the chief of scouts.

7 SITE 4. GUARDHOUSE Originally the Guardhouse was built with two rooms for the guards and two cells for prisoners. The cells were 4 by 8 feet. A doctor in 1873 described them as "dark and damp with no ventilation except a small half circular opening three inches in diameter at the top of the cell doors." Soldiers made the brick for the building. There was a wooden porch on the west side of the Guardhouse when it was first constructed. Many of the carvings made in the brick on the southwest corner of the building, were carved by prisoners when they were allowed outside their cells for fresh air and sunlight. The depression north of the Guardhouse shows the outline of the original Commissary and Quartermaster Storehouse. It was 24 feet wide and 150 feet long and was constructed of logs. The post Saddle Shop and Chapel, built of unhewn logs, were east of the Guardhouse.

FORT SISSETON TOUR S

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Coal Shed

Blockhouses

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SITES 1. North Barracks rES 2. South Barracks 3. Oil House Carpenter's. Blacksmith's 4. Guardhouse and Wheelwright's Shops 5.. Magazine \ Sawmill 6. Commisary Sergeant's Quarters I~~ 7. Adjutant's Office lee 8. Officer' QUarters HouseS! 9. Commanding Officer's Residence 10. Doctor's Quarters 11. Blockhouses 12. Hospital 13. Library-Schoolhouse 14. Stable IS. Carpenter's Blacksmith's L and Wheelwright's Shops A Trading Post K 16. Trading Post E 17. Post Bakery

9 SITE 5. MAGAZINE The Magazine is directly west of the Guardhouse. It is built of stone and brick, and it was to be used to store small arms ammunition, canister shot, and powder for the artillery pieces. The original Magazine is marked by the depression inside the extreme southwest corner of the sod breastwork. It was built from logs.

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Magazine SITE 6. COMMISSARY SERGEANT'S QUARTERS

A few of the fort's facilities were built outside the sod breastwork and ditch. This building was occupied by the commissary sergeant, and it is built of split fieldstone. It is often mistakenly called the "lookout post." Originally, a porch was attached over the south entrance. A short distance west of here was the home of the quartermaster sergeant. It appeared similar to this building. Nearby to the southwest you may notice the depression and a difference in the condition of the vegetation. This marks the Root Cellar It was used to store some of the produce raised in the three gar'dens maintained for the fort personnel. The 96- by 26-foot vegetable and root cellar had masonary walls two feet thick. Note the long mound to the west that begins near the southwest corner of the moat. This 200-foot-long mound is all that remains of the fort's Coal Shed. Bits of coal may still be found nearby From this site, the tour returns to inside the breastwork enclosure.

10 SITE 7. ADJUTANT'S OFFICE The building north of the Magazine is the Adjutant's Office. An adjutant is the administrative assistant to the commanding officer and takes care of the correspondence and other bookwork for the commander The structure was near ruin when restored in 1935.

Adjutant's Office SITE 8. OFFICERS QUARTERS The front of this .building has been restored much to its original appearance. It was divided into four apartments for officers and their families. Walk behind the building and observe where the woodsheds and kitchens were once attached.

Officers Quarters 11 SITE 9. COMMANDING OFFICER'S RESIDENCE This two-story brick building housed the fort commander. It was occupied as three sets of quarters for officers. A porch was originally attached to the front of the structure. Restoration of the porch and a fence similar to the one in front of the Officers Quarters is planned. At least 11 commanding officers served Fort Sisseton during its 25 years of military occupancy

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Commanding Officer's Residence

SITE 10. DOCTOR'S QUARTERS The fort doctor and his servants lived here. The post doctor was responsible for collecting information about the birds, animals, weather, anthropology and geology of the vicinity One can imagine that the rooms of the Doctor's Quarters were decorated with many scientific specimens, mounted birds and animals, and rock collections.

SITE 11. BLOCKHOUSES Log blockhouses, each 28 by 28 feet, once stood on the southeast and the northwest corners of the sod breastworks. This blockhouse, on the northwest corner, has been restored as similar to the original structure as possible. If necessary, soldiers in the blockhouses could fire at any enemy who reached the breastworks. Between this site and the hospital is the sign that marks the location of the Scout House. Indian scouts on duty in the fort compound were assigned to this residence.

12 SITE 12. HOSPITAL Originally, this building was rectangular and 1Y2 stories high. It was remodeled into a larger structure during the latter years of the fort's active life. In addition to his duties, Dr James Ferguson, the post surgeon in 1880, found time to plant flowers and roses around the hospital grounds. While the building required continual remodeling attention, the post was fortunate to have the services of a doctor for most of its occupation. The concrete foundation marks the limits of the hospital.

Hospital SITE 13. LIBRARY -SCHOOLHOUSE This building was built in a cross design. It housed a 94-volume library, a telegraph office,and the post's schoolroom. Court martials also were held here. The oil lamp used for reading in the 20- by 40-foot room occupied by the library was the subject of many complaints from the fort's commanders to their headquarters. Today the building is the residence of the park ranger Gen. Alfred Terry, who won fame for rescuing Maj. Marcus A. Reno's forces at the Battle of Little Big Horn, was commander of the Department of Dakota in 1879 when the school was built. The post commander and staff recommended the southeast end of the Quartermaster Storehouse (Site 2 - South Barracks) for a schoolroom and reading room for the enlisted men. Terry disapproved the plan and 13 wrote, "A government storehouse for U.S. property is not a proper place for children, an it onl y provides one room for school and reading room; the men should have a separate reading room."

Library-Schoolhouse

SITE 14. STABLE

Constructed of split fieldstone, the horse and mule stable is 35 feet wide and over 200 feet long. The original roof was a simple gable design. It was redesigned to its present form during the WPA reconstruction in

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Stable

14 1935. The building was used to shelter the mounts of several area riding clubs before the fort area became a state park. The road south of the stable leads to the post cemetery about one­ quarter mile west. Bodies of the dead were removed to military cemeteries on more permanent posts before the fort was closed. The rail fence has been reconstructed around part of the cemetery Several of the original oak posts were used.

SITE 15. CARPENTER'S, BLACKSMITH'S AND WHEELWRIGHT'S SHOPS When the WPA crew began restoration, these buildings were in ruin. They had originally housed the carpenter's shop in the east section and blacksmith and wheelwright's shop in the west section. A display of blacksmith and wheelwright tools of the era may be viewed from the doorway

Carpenter, Blacksmith and Wheelwright Shops

SITE 16. SUTLER'S STORE (TRADING POST)

As you proceed to the next site, notice the location on the guide map of the post sawmill, icehouse and lime kiln along the shore of Kettle Lake. Visualize the lake with a water level 12 feet higher As the water level dropped, a second icehouse was built. The garrison used melted ice exclusively for drinking during the summer when the lake water became unpalatable. Thousands of bricks were made at the kiln, and the raw materials are still abundant. The nearby sources of lumber for the sawmill were soon depleted, and within a few years after building began, the troops were hauling logs from as far away as Sica Hollow, 20 miles northeast. 15 Joseph R. Brown was the first post trader, or sutler as they were called, until 1868. His trading post stood on this site, and it offered a prime source of recreation and supplies not furnished by the Army. When Brown returned to Minnesota in 1870, T.J. Baldwin was appointed post trader by the U.S. Secretary of War An appointment as trader was considered an honor because the appointee had exclusive rights to the trade profits on a military reservation, and they could charge whatever prices the traffic would bear. As you return to the last stop on the tour, enter the east approach to the fort grounds. Pause at the ditch before the sod breastwork. The ditch was dug for defense because of the lack of timber to build a stockade. The ditch was filled from 1875 to 1889. It was restored to its present condition in the mid-1930's.

SITE 17. POST BAKERY The Post Bakery was a wooden-frame structure. The ovens had a capacity of more than 400 rations of fresh bread daily. When on escort duty or other field assignments, the troops carried hardtack to replace the fresh bread they received at the fort's mess hall. The elongated depressions to the north of the bakery and inside the sod embankment are sites of the barracks, sinks and toilets. Sinks for the South Barracks were between here and the Oil House (Site 3). Other depressions mark the site of cisterns used to catch and store rainwater Log cabins were located at intervals inside the sod breastwork. The cabins housed the married soldiers and their families . Some of the wives worked as laundresses to supplement the family income. Tailors were also in great demand at the frontier forts, for the government-issued uniforms generally required a great deal of alteration.

This ends the tour of the fort facilities. Please visit the museum in the North Barracks (Site 1) to view the audio-visual program.

16 FORT SISSETON FESTIVAL A historical festival is staged annually at Fort Sisseton. Muzzle­ loaders rendezvous at the post and compete in events such as shooting clay pigeons and throwing tomahawks. Military drills on the parade grounds, wagon rides, fiddling contests, square dancing and skills of pioneer crafts are some of the features of this popular festival. Picnic and primitive camping faci li ties as well as a modern lounge in the visitor center are in the park. During the festival, food concessions are also available on the grounds. The Parks and Recreation Division and the Fort Sisseton Citizens Committee sponsor the event. r:: ------~-~ t I MILITARY RESER V A TION ~ (J.,: I

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