sign in sign up
<<
Home , Allied Domecq, Caol Ila distillery, Glenturret distillery, Johnnie Walker, Mannochmore distillery, United Distillers

H FY C N SCOTCH O E whiskiesL I N L V L E Y R G A R R AY A REVIEW

EDITION 6 AUTUMN 1996

WINNERS The Loch Fyne, our blend created by Ronnie Martin, has been awarded the bronze at the IWSC ‘the world’s most influential & spirit competition’. We’re ‘dead chuffed’ as we feel that this is a reflec- tion of both our blend and our policy that everything we do for our customers is top quality. If you disagree—let us know. The IWSC is the independent organisa- tion which awards the Distiller of the Year Trophy won last year by Morrison- . This year the sponsored trophy has been awarded to ‘for a consistent, high quality selection of different products which reflected a dedicated, committed approach to the highest standards of dis- tilling, blending and bottling’ —this ac- cording to the panel of judges. Such a reason for the award must have come as a surprise to the sponsors, Allied, who have whittled their range of PRESTIGIOUS AWARD FOR THE LOCH FYNE down to a stick with which to aggres- We are very proud to announce that The Loch Fyne has won the Bronze award at sively challenge we consumers while this year’s International Wine and Spirit Competition. Red Label baying “no half measures”. The Trophy received the Gold and Royal & Ancient just took the silver from us. See page 4. is rightly awarded to UD and we have little to add except to say—aye! United Distillers are widening the range CHANGES AT MACALLAN ARDBEG FOR SALE of spirits they produce; a recent addition Ownership of Macallan changed sud- Allied Distillers have ceased distilling is black malt whisky—Loch Dhu. The denly in July when Highland Distiller- at ’s Ardbeg and put the distillery launch of Loch Dhu raises an interest- ies mounted an inspired and succesful up for sale. The distillery was produc- ing question, where does take-over bid for the company after gain- ing spirit on a part-time basis until May stop? In SWR edition 5 we considered ing the proxy of joint shareholders, of this year. the definition of Scotch, in particular ‘to Suntory of Japan. “Ardbeg will be maintained” said man- which no substance other than water Concerned for the legions of Macallan ager Iain Henderson. “We are merely and spirit caramel has been added’. On fans, Loch Fyne Whiskies investigated the custodians of these distilleries and page 10 of this edition we reveal what any changes to be made to the product. it is our responsibility to keep them wind we have learned about the creation of We were very reassured by the appoint- and watertight but without the demand Loch Dhu, whereby between charrings ment of Peter Fairlie, Director and sole for fillings, and given the limited cult the cask is subjected to ‘treatment with full-time executive for Macallan. Our status of Ardbeg as a single malt, pro- a natural product’. Now, suppose that talk with Peter is on page 4. duction is not a viable proposition”. this is molasses, (my guess only), which We have also sought to correct a variety A statement from the owners, Allied is then burnt off prior to filling with of untruths regarding the take-over and Distillers, said the reason behind this whisky—is this an extraneous additive? our detailed study of the events and cir- decision was ‘primarily to allow focus be- No doubt UD’s conscience is absolutely cumstances is reported within. Brian hind Laphroaig and because ADL was clear; their Red Devil does not masquer- Ivory, Highland’s Chief Executive, hav- carrying excess stocks of Islay malts. ade as whisky, but as ‘Red Hot Spirit’, ing seen our article, confirmed its accu- The sale is an attempt to safeguard Is- —but what might their competitors be racy and that he wished to make no lay’s future economy.’ thinking up? changes—you read it here first. Turn to page 11—get Ardbeg free!

SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD PAGE 1 LFW: Is Scotch a good investment? take an anti-cyclical view, i.e. buy when a sec- THE POUNDS, The Scotch Whisky sector has been friendless tor is out of favour, then from that point of from an investment point of view for the last view you should be buying whisky shares. But DOLLARS & YEN few years. This is partly because prices have if we are near the top of a stock market cycle not been rising and neither have profits. and it might fall by say, 20%, then there is no Whisky companies have not therefore been a way the Scotch Whisky companies can out- particularly good investment of late, albeit perform that significantly. Taking a long term many are very good companies. That should view, however, all of the big companies look change but is unlikely to do so in the short attractive. term as the market generally is near a peak. LFW: United Distillers is the big- Glenmorangie has, however, performed well gest producer of Scotch. Can I buy and many other companies are now getting UD shares? into an attractive buying range. Of the big UD is wholly owned by ; you cannot boys, Guinness, Allied and Grand Metropoli- buy shares in UD but you can in Guinness, a tan have had a very disappointing share price public quoted company with a head office in performance over the last five years. Allied London. UD is the spirits arm, producing has under-performed the stock market by Scotch, and other spirits and is by far the 50%, Guinness by 44% and GrandMet by 26%. biggest part of the group accounting for 60% The reason for this is mainly due to the weak- of profits. The Irish connection has largely ness of selling prices; for every one percent disappeared apart from the Guinness Stout increase in price there is a tremendous boost brand, and there is very little stock held by to profit. In the past whisky has had con- the Guinness family. Alan Gray is the leading authority stantly rising prices and therefore profits, in The promised Guinness HQ in never on the financial make-up of the many cases ahead of other industries, but in materialised. What we do have is the UD Scotch Whisky industry. His unique the last few years that has not been the case. main operations based in and they knowledge and opinion is essential While volumes have been reasonably good, the have done a good job since acquiring Bell’s for all investors in and those con- absence of price increases has mitigated and ten years ago. cerned with the Industry. against the whole industry. At that time they refused to cut prices or dump LFW: What is your job? Prices have not even risen in line with infla- stock and profits rose sharply. However, in I am an Investment Analyst and have spe- tion, partly due to recession but more particu- the last five years UD has sounded a caution- cialised in the whisky industry for about 30 larly because the industry has been needlessly ary note mainly because of the weakness of years, mainly as a stock broker and my an- competitive virtually cutting each others pricing. In the UK in particular they felt they nual report The Scotch Whisky Industry Re- throat and in many cases has shot itself in were losing too much volume to the price cut- view has been published for about twenty the foot. I don’t believe that prices need to be ters, especially with Bell’s, and so they too cut years. I am a chartered accountant and ini- as keen as they are. Furthermore I can’t think prices. Had they held out there is just the tially I spent five years as a financial journal- of any other industry that cuts prices in the possibility that industry prices might not have ist with the Herald—an excellent run up to its busy Christmas and New Year fallen as much but you’ve got be a wee bit training ground for stockbroking. season. It’s beyond belief! sympathetic towards them as they are the I am a Director of Sutherlands, stock brokers LFW: Is it just prices? market leader and easily shot at. based in Edinburgh with an office in London. There is a misconception, certainly at home, Just recently UD has stated that they are We trade for and advise clients on which that whisky sales are falling—this is true in going to get prices up and they are not going shares should be bought or sold. Our clients the UK but not in most overseas markets to get involved in price cutting. If they stick are exclusively institutional; investment where exports are rising. The problem in the to that, things will get better. trusts, insurance companies and pension UK is that people think that whisky is ‘old LFW: Who is ? funds for example. fashioned’. The industry has got a lot of PR GrandMet is a quoted UK company based in LFW: Who buys your Review? At work to do and should be pointing out that London. Its business is principally foods, £350 it is an expensive document! this is a great product, with growing markets Pilsbury, Burger King and Haagen-Dazs Ice We sell it to the whisky industry itself; they around the world that are enjoying Scotch. Cream, and through its subsidiary all buy it because it provides them with a com- The high rate of tax in the UK on whisky has International Distillers and Vintners. posite view of the whole industry, written im- contributed to the fact that sales are falling. IDV is the biggest spirits organisation in the partially. It is also used by any company in- All spirits including Scotch are discriminated world (Guinness is the biggest in Scotch), with volved in whisky both overseas and at home, against vis-a-vis other drinks such as beer and a big portfolio of many brands including from label printers, cooperages, right through wine, which is wrong and the industry is right , Baileys and . Its principal to advertising agencies. to point out to the Chancellor that if he re- whiskies are J&B, (the world’s number two), LFW: How important is Scotch? duced tax more would be sold. and the malts, The Singleton and Knockando. It is one of the UK’s top five exports, along The industry has not addressed the percep- IDV has gone through a sticky patch with its with the likes of ‘Finance’, ‘Engineering’, the tion of being old hat. Currently UK consump- brands recently but is more advanced with ‘Motor Industry’ and North Sea Oil. Whisky tion is down 30% compared with 20 years ago. restructuring than anyone and so should be- exports are now running at well over £2,000 The industry should be trying to reverse this gin to reap the benefit. They’re putting a lot million every year. In addition, almost half trend as the situation has been getting worse of money into marketing which should help that is raised as excise duty and VAT, and worse. J&B, long regarded as the jewel in making it a major contributor to the UK The good news is that at long last they are GrandMet’s crown but which has been tar- Exchequer. advertising on TV which should have been nished for a while. I believe they should ex- In terms of employment, the number directly done twenty years ago. Historically the in- pect to do better. involved is now below 14,000, with another dustry has sold a prestigious product and LFW: And Allied? forty-odd thousand indirectly involved, mak- enjoyed high margins but is in danger of los- Allied Domecq, formerly Allied Lyons, owns ing some 60,000 dependent on the industry. ing that. You don’t cut prices when you’ve got Allied Distillers, the whisky arm. Other main A big employer in Scotland and particularly a quality product. interests are retail, including Baskin-Robbins significant in small communities, a distillery LFW: So an investor should buy now? ice cream, Dunkin’ Donuts and Victoria Wine. may employ only a dozen people but keep a On the face of it you should be buying but the Allied Domecq is interesting because its per- community vibrant. stock market is at an all time high! If you formance has been so bad that the market

PAGE 2 SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD believes that if doesn’t get its act together it with the country and the product. Recently a prices would help them considerably. will be taken over. Either they improve them- French drinks industry executive made this LFW: And the top selling malt, selves and their profits improve rapidly or a very point without any prompting from me. ? bidder will come along. Usually in a take- LFW: Why is this so important with Wm. Grant and Co are the producers of over a share holder makes money. Scotch and not other drinks? Glenfiddich, Grant’s and Balvenie whiskies LFW: What are they doing wrong? It is the biggest selling whisky in the world. and it is a private company. Likewise Inver One of the things was to buy the Mexican Wherever you go in the world people identify House Distillers, which is the result of a man- company, Domecq, at the wrong time, just one Scotland with certain things and one of these agement buy out and doing extremely well. day before a senior Mexican politician was is always Scotch. If the message gets out that Other private producers are Glenfarclas, the assassinated. Devaluation of the peso fol- there are not too many Scots involved then it little-known Glen Catrine, and Springbank— lowed the assassination and that knocked is bad for the image. I argue for a strong Scot- a wonderful product, a gem waiting to be ex- huge amounts off the value of the Mexican tish presence in production and in selling. ploited! All of these are Scottish run. investment. The company has also had trou- LFW: There are Scottish companies LFW: Ardbeg is for sale. Would you ble getting to grips with reorganising the to have shares in. advise buying it? management both in Mexico and in the UK. The biggest of these is Highland Distilleries, Ardbeg is a great whisky. If it was on the Allied has failed to tackle problems, merely a very conservatively run, good Scottish com- mainland, yes; you could build a visitor cen- tinkering with them and not maximising its pany based entirely in Scotland. Highland is tre and do a “Glenturret”. The malt is not a brand strength. involved primarily in whisky, with Famous big seller as it has never been promoted but Spirits & is the biggest part of the Al- Grouse and seven distilleries in its group, of it does have potential. The one possibility is lied empire. Teacher’s has struggled, which six are operational. that an overseas buyer might appear who Ballantine’s has done well as has one of their Highland is a quoted vehicle and very much could run it full tilt and use it to improve their malts, Laphroaig, but a lot of other brands in the spotlight at the moment due to its acri- own home-produced whiskey and also start are not performing due to a lack of advertis- monious bid for Macallan. There is a percep- to market the single malt. I suspect that there ing and marketing support. tion that Highland itself is ‘bid proof’ and this are a few people looking at it at the moment. Allied Domecq is a UK listed company is because of the very close relationship with LFW: Is overseas ownership a bad with a head office in London. What is Robertson & Baxter, a private company. R&B thing? interesting is that they are the only non- own Langs blend and Glengoyne malt and are The reality is that there is less foreign own- Japanese company with a holding in also blenders, (they blend Cutty Sark for ership than twenty or thirty years ago when Suntory, albeit the holding is very small. Berry Bros). the main ownership was American. Now 70% Highland has a 35% holding in R&B and of the industry is UK owned. Most people R&B’s parent, Edrington, has 20% of High- believe that foreign ownership is much higher “live here and land but this still leaves 80% on the market. than it is. At the moment overseas control is The problem with any takeover bid for High- exercised by (Canada), Pernod be identified land is in the arrangement between Highland (France), Suntory (Japan) and American and R&B because while R&B are the blend- Brands (Whyte & Mackay/Invergordon). I ers of Grouse, Highland are the brand own- don’t think that an element of foreign owner- with the ers and marketers. So a buyer might own the ship is a bad thing. brand without access to all the stocks sup- What is bad and makes me extremely sad is product” porting the brand. that so many malt distilleries have been The logic is that a bidder would have to bid closed. Consider the interest in the industry The other of the big four whisky companies for both Highland and R&B. and the number of tourists that want to come is Seagram, owner of , The Hiram Walker tried to bid for Highland in and see distilleries. Also consider the use in Glenlivet and many other brands. Seagram 1979 but that bid was turned down by the blends where 25 or 30 individual malts are have moved up a gear in the last year or two. Monopolies Commission on the basis that the employed. It’s becoming more difficult to pro- They have bought heavily into entertain- ownership of many quality malt whisky dis- duce a distinctive blend; they are in danger ment via MCA and some commentators be- tilleries would be in Hiram Walker’s hands! of becoming too similar. There were 125 dis- lieve that they may want out of drinks. How- LFW: These days that refusal just tilleries in operation 15 years ago, now there ever that is probably not the case and there would not happen! are 85. In my view we have got to a level seems to be no intention to leave Scotland. Exactly. Glenmorangie plc is the new name which should not be reduced any further. They are increasing volume, have a new bot- for Macdonald & Martin and has just moved I believe that the Tourist and Whisky indus- tling plant at Paisley, and have created lav- from Leith to a new integrated plant at tries should work together promoting them ish visitor centres at Strathisla and now Broxburn, west of Edinburgh. It is controlled for their mutual benefit. The opening up of Glenlivet. Seagram is a Canadian company. by the Macdonald family through the owner- visitor centres is a fairly new phenomenon; Its head office is in Montreal and the UK ship of ‘b’ shares which have five votes. An ‘a’ thirty years ago there were none now there operations are led from London. share has one vote, and I reckon the family are many. Glenturret had over 225,000 visi- LFW: Are London headquarters a has 50% of the votes. Many family compa- tors last year—staggering! Glenfiddich and problem? nies end up being taken over but not always. Glenfarclas also have big numbers; even Bow- There is nothing wrong with having some At the moment that does not look likely as more has attracted 10,000, on an island with operations in London but the Scottish they’ve managed to finance the move to a population of 3,500! A lot can be done. economy would benefit greatly if headquar- Broxburn, and their borrowings are low. LFW: Any share tips? ters were based in Scotland. Scotland should Glenmorangie has looked hard and decided Long term Guinness and GrandMet look at- be pushed as much as possible—long live UD that there were one or two bits that had been tractive, as do Highland and Glenmorangie, at Edinburgh, we need more of that, although neglected and these have been addressed. but there is little to go for in the short term, a Guinness HQ (as originally promised) would The other public quoted company is Burn no quick “punts”! be even better. The move south of Allied’s Stewart but they are not doing too well. Brand LFW: Point taken! Your Desert Is- marketing, for example, is a bad thing. I’m position is the problem; their products are at land Dram? extremely uneasy about direction from the the cheaper end of the market. They came to Something peaty! south, not from any nationalist point of view the stock market at too high a price and the but because I believe that part and parcel of share value is now only half its original floata- The Scotch Whisky Industry Review selling Scotch is to understand the product, tion price. It is a highly geared operation with by Alan Gray is Published by to live here and to be seen as being identified heavy borrowings. An increase in whisky Sutherlands Ltd. and costs £350.

SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD PAGE 3 THE INTERNATIONAL WINE AND SPIRIT COMPETITION

The International Wine & Spirit Com- RED LABEL petition was founded in 1969 and is the Johnnie Walker Red Label is sold in over oldest continuously operating annual 200 international markets and outsells wine and spirit competition in the world. its nearest rival by over 10 million bot- It is a completely independent non-profit tles each year. Walker whiskies have operation with its own premises south consistently won awards in competition; of London. It has a limited share hold- the most recent a gold at the IWSC in ing, a board of directors and a distin- the blended Scotch Whisky category. guished list of international vice-presi- When John Walker died in 1857, his dents, all of whom have served one year business was no more than a groceries, as President. The Competition is widely wines and spirit shop in in supported around the world by leading the west of Scotland. But with it he left figures in the alcohol beverage industry an exceptional stock of mature Scotch who sponsor trophies which form part Whisky and a local reputation for creat- of the awards. ing fine blends. These were the founda- JUDGING tion of the world’s most famous Scotch Samples are presented in ‘flights’ of THE WINNERS Whisky business. numbered glasses to avoid the possibil- The Loch Fyne is the winner of the The family line produced a succession ity of being influenced by the sight of Bronze award in the blended Scotch of expert blenders, each with a mission the top or shape of the bottle. Entries Whisky Class. to take the art of blending to new peaks. must be available in commercial quan- In each class there is only one Gold, one John’s son, Alexander I, created the Old tities to eliminate the possibility of Silver and one Bronze provided that the Highland Whisky blend, which achieved ‘show’ products. product has achieved a minimum stand- popularity throughout the British Em- Glasses are produced together with a ard for that award. In this year’s com- pire. In his own words, he was deter- corresponding score sheet. Judges are petition the winners and scores were: mined “to make our whisky of such a given the basic parameters of the class Johnnie Walker Red Label 90.7 Gold quality that nothing in the market shall being assessed such as type, region and Royal & Ancient 88.0 Silver come before it”. That was until his son age. Samples are assessed quietly with- The Loch Fyne 87.3 Bronze Alexander II, with the typical irrever- out comment and scores recorded. While Royal & Ancient just beat us to ence of youth, decided that he could ac- Scores are collected by the panel chair- the silver, nonetheless our whisky had tually improve his father’s blend to meet man who may then open discussion in a score eligible for a silver award. the needs of a changing market. Old respect of judges comments/scores. Trophy winners, (the gold medal win- Highland Whisky had the robust flavour A unique aspect of the Competition is ners that win further tastings), include: of a traditional Walker blend, which that entries are first subject to chemi- young Alexander greatly respected. But cal analysis for which forty marks are William Grant & Sons sponsored what he wanted was to lighten the body allocated. The balance of 60 points is Best blended Scotch Whisky and broaden the flavour by blending to- allocated to the organoleptical process. Scottish Leader Supreme 15yo gether a greater number of whiskies Nigel Shattock, with 25 years experience House of Campbell sponsored than his father had ever used. He was in the whisky industry, was one of this Best single malt under 12 years fortunate that he had inherited all his year’s judges. “I’m not aware of any Bowmore Legend father’s skills. He chose each whisky Scotch failing the chemical analysis, it’s Morrison Bowmore sponsored expertly to create a multi-layered struc- really a test for wine. It is also difficult Best single malt over 12 years ture to the blend that added to the depth not to give full marks for colour in a Glenury Royal 23yo Cask strength of flavour and the length of the finish. whisky but the real test is in the nose, And the taste? ‘On the nose Red Label Ian Mitchell Memorial taste and finish. We are looking for the is rich, fresh and emphatic with just a Most outstanding single malt amount of malt perceived, anything too hint of . When you taste it, you Glenury Royal 23yo Cask strength grainy will be marked against. The will discover that it starts off sweet, light whisky class is more interesting than Allied Domeq sponsored and spicy, but develops into a full fla- others because there is so much charac- Distiller of the Year voured smoky richness’. ter to judge”. United Distillers Tastings take place annually during the GLENURY ROYAL Spring. Judges are selected for their This year the Rare Malts bottling of knowledge of the class being tasted but Glenury Royal has done the double, win- must not have a vested interest in any ning two trophies (last year of the products being assessed. Glenlivet 18yo did the same). The product with the highest score in We have enjoyed selling the its group is given an award provided the Glenury over the summer; it’s a required minimum is reached: 90 points big, old-fashioned Highland malt and over = Gold, 85-89 = Silver, 80-84 = that impresses all palates. Bronze. Stocks are exhausted at If more than one sample is awarded over source and our stock quantity 90 points, the product with the highest is insufficient for inclusion in score receives the gold, the runner up our Stock List. However it the silver etc. Where relevant, products may be worth contacting us to with the highest marks in their respec- see if we have any remaining. tive category are retasted for National As an alternative try the Rare and International Trophies. Malts bottling of Benrinnes The IWSC is the world’s most influen- Scottish Leader Supreme ’74/21 60%, an excellent mid- tial wine and spirit competition. Blended Scotch Trophy winner Speyside blockbuster!

PAGE 4 SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD The MACALLAN—The STORY The BID The FUTURE The loss of Macallan as an independ- The good news is that we are reas- ent company really happened some sured that there will be no changes twenty years ago. It was at this time in the final product. that the family shareholding fell In an inspired appointment, Peter below 50%. Fairlie has been made Sales Director One hundred years ago Roderick Kemp with exclusive responsibilities for the bought the distillery and his descendants brand. Peter will be known (possibly by had started selling shares during the millions) as the dynamo who converted 1960’s in order to finance the creation of from a fillings-for- a single malt brand. blending-only operation to a top class sin- Since then, to fund the development of gle malt and huge visitor success. The Macallan, there had been further As we toured the workmanlike Macallan share issues in which the family did not Distillery he told us, “This is a signifi- partake, thus their holding was further DRAMATIS PERSONAE cant investment. As number four in the To reduce debt, Rémy-Cointreau were obliged diluted. They also sold substantial num- to sell their 26% stake in Macallan to Highland world, The Macallan has already made bers of shares at high prices to Rémy- Distillers who then pooled their holding with great strides and is approaching an im- Cointreau and Suntory. All-in-all the Suntory to control 51% of Macallan. portant stage of its development. The family did well. brand stands foremost in our portfolio By the end of 1995, some 80% of the com- stances (if any) where a bid has been of single malts and we will maintain the pany was owned equally by the family, made at a price lower than the market growth which has been established”. Rémy and Suntory, the balance held by price, and succeeded. “This distillery not only prides itself on private investors and institutions. The The family should have realised that mat- quality sought by malt whisky drinkers, family considered that its stake of 26% ters had changed—the City expected that but also by whisky blenders. Macallan was sufficient to protect the independence Highland would take over Macallan but fillings are the ‘top dressing’ used by all of the company as it was improbable that not that they would move quite so quickly. the leading companies”. the French and Japanese shareholders Ivory was very astute in realising that Referring to 26 redundancies, Peter ex- would get together. Highland only needed Suntory’s support plained, “There were areas of overlap but Meanwhile, over a number of years, High- and not their shares. these have been addressed. We are mov- land Distilleries had developed a good Suntory’s original investment in ing our group operational headquarters working relationship with Rémy who Macallan had been expensive and there from Glasgow to the distillery”. were distributors in France of The Fa- was a danger that the Directors may have “The way the whisky is made will not mous Grouse and had sold Glenturret to suffer the loss of face in admitting a change. The natural environment of air Distillery to Highland in 1990. About this loss. When Ivory approached Suntory and water will not alter and the sherry time Highland had cemented this rela- they considered this a route out of their cask selection policy remains sacrosanct. tionship by taking a 19% stake in Rémy dilemma and felt Highland was a better The warehousing space is limited, and (ironically part paid for by Highland’s guardian of their investment than the we plan to build further warehousing, then 12% stake in Macallan). Recently existing board at Macallan. thus ensuring the on-site maturation”. Rémy have found trading difficult; their They put the two stakes together and got “Tradition and heritage are important. borrowings increased sharply while the 51% of the company, a fait accompli. As share holdings change with different share price fell. These problems were re- Within two weeks Macallan’s advisors felt generations, absolutely nothing, however flected in the share price of Highland as that they had no option but to accept tempting financially, is done if there is the City looked upon the two together Highland’s low bid, a total of £88m— any concern that it will be detrimental rather than separately. Highland’s share nearly half to the family shareholders. to the spirit. There is no exception with price was further reduced due to a flat- In the deal struck with Highland, Macallan’s new Board of Directors”. tening in the growth of sales of Grouse. Suntory now have 25% of a new Highland “The success of The Macallan is based In January this year Rémy elected to sell subsidiary, HS Distillers, the owners of on the quality of the product with a their Macallan shares to relieve their high Macallan. range of different ages up to 25 years borrowing and Highland acquired all Eventually Suntory may sell all their old and this ethos will continue. The 26%, immediately improving both Com- shares as they now own Morrison Bow- Macallan will remain The Macallan”. panies’ share price by reducing Rémy’s more Distillers and a share of Macallan And a visitor centre? “Perhaps just a problems. is surplus to requirements. The deal with small one.” Highland paid Rémy 152.5p per share, Highland has worked well for Suntory. less than the market price, but a price- It is always sad to see the loss of an inde- earnings ratio of about 30, twice the sec- pendent company but events conspired to tor value. The City was not very happy make this takeover inevitable. Ivory has with the price paid but relieved that at been quick in recognising opportunities least Rémy’s borrowings had been re- as they arose while the family slept on. duced. Despite the City’s concern, High- Given that it had to happen, then High- land’s share price continued to improve. land are the most suitable owners. The Highland’s Chief Executive, Brian Ivory Macallan fits in their portfolio of High- got the message from the City and real- land Park, and Tamdhu ised that if they were to buy Macallan and it is their type of product. They will they should not pay more than the same do well in promoting sales but it will be 152.5p. During the six months between hard work. the deal with Rémy and the bid, Meanwhile speculation continues regard- Macallan’s price had risen to 187p but ing Ivory’s possible acquisition of Rémy... Highland put in a bid at 152.5p and this Our thanks to Alan Gray of Sutherlands for The MAN proved successful. There are few in- assistance in the preparation of this article. Peter Fairlie —“Mister MACALLAN”.

SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD PAGE 5 Custom Labels Our custom labelled bottles are very well received and the best advice we have is don’t use an excessively expensive whisky—they often don’t get opened but sit pride of place on the mantlepiece. The Loch Fyne and Inverarity Malt are ideal as both offer great value and suit a wide range of tastes. A ‘basic’ label carries your message and our logo.

Malt Whisky Glasses Some of you have not bought a port glass yet and don’t know what you’re missing! (We know who you are!) For relaxed whisky drinking we recom- mend a port glass. A wide rim and per- fect balance aids contemplative enjoy- ment. And consider this simple water carafe—far less fuss than a lipped jug A more complex label can be created ei- and far more controllable. ther using material supplied by you e.g. a photograph, a character drawing or CLASSIC NOSING GLASS £7.50(a) your company logo, or from our library PORT GLASS £3.50(a) of artwork for fishermen, golfers etc. CARAFE £3.50(a) The Taste of Christmas Past

The Loch Fyne Slightly sweet pleasing sherry fans, slightly smoky pleasing Islay fans. The Loch Fyne appears to appeal to most The Loch Fyne has a cork top with cap malt fans as an easy-drinking, well fla- seal, back labels describing the whisky voured blended whisky; something for and award and your label on the front. the flask and something to rather LOCH FYNE + BASIC LABEL £16.00 than concentrate on. We have given the LOCH FYNE + COMPLEX LABEL £18.00 Bottlings of Glen Rothes are becoming Loch Fyne to three professional tasting TUBE + DUPLICATE LABEL add £1.50 collector’s items as various vintages are note writers and while all enjoy it, their made available. Just out and in very tasting notes are completely different— The Inverarity malt has a cork, your limited numbers is a ‘Restricted Release’ proof that it is something for everyone! front label and a descriptive back label. 24yo, which we declare excellent—lots Available in optional gift presentation INVERARITY + SIMPLE LABEL £21.00 of mincemeat, fruit and spice, ideal for tube with a Loch Fyne Whiskies dram INVERARITY + COMPLEX LABEL £24.00 winter reviving—the taste of Christmas. glass—fill to the half way line, add a QUALITY PINE WOODEN BOX £10.00 GLENROTHES ’72/24 43% £75.00 drop of water and take your medicine! These prices are for one-offs. We also GLENROTHES ’84/12 43% £34.50 LOCH FYNE (bottle only) £13.90 offer case rates for clubs or business; The current 1984 vintage is to be suc- LOCH FYNE + TUBE & GLASS £16.90 please call for discussion and prices. ceeded by a 1983 next spring. LOCH FYNE (miniature only) £2.60(a) Satin lined box with miniature of the Bowmore Ceramics Loch Fyne and either LFW dram glass A pair of beautiful ceramic bottles with or 7.5cm diameter pewter quaich: whisky to match. LOCH FYNE MIN & DRAM GLASS £8.50(a) BOWMORE —Sky 22 43% £109.00 LOCH FYNE MIN & QUAICH £20.00(b) BOWMORE—Dragon 30 43% £143.00

Pictures, Paul Conniff

PAGE 6 SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD The Culloden Bottle Classic Six Stuff To commemorate the 250th anniversary A cracking intrduction to quality malt of the battle, Glenmorangie have pro- whiskies; Glenkinchie, Dalwhinnie, duced a replica of an 18th Century spirit Cragganmore, Oban, Talisker and flask that belonged to Forbes of Culloden . and now held by the National Museum of Scotland. Complete with squint neck, signed, sealed certificate, hardwood box and outer sleeve, this is a masterful OUR HOUSE MALT piece of whisky presentation. A worth- — a pale whisky with a full aroma and while collector’s item and very few left. rich, sweet taste some- GLENMORANGIE —Culloden Bottle where between a ’71/24 43% £125 Dalwhinnie and an Edradour. With water CLASSIC SIX BAR STAND £42.50(c) huge volumes of perfume save £10 if bought with all six malts emerge and the whisky C6 BAR STAND WITH ALL C6 £178.60 becomes a dessert wine, eminently drinkable— dangerously so in fact! Here is a single malt (spe- cifically, an eight year old Aultmore) that will cer- tainly please an experi- enced malt drinker and also convince the novice of the benefits of buying quality. A very reason- able price for a superb product—quality and value combined.

THE INVERARITY 8 40% £18.90 Glenmorangie Wood Finish Selection Glenmorangie’s excellent work experimenting with different maturation woods is (presumably) complete with a range of distinctly different malts. Initially ma- tured in bourbon casks for at least 12 years, the malt is then transferred to either Port pipes, Madeira drums or Sherry butts for an additional period. This tech- nique of ‘finishing’ enhances the delicate flavour of Glenmorangie without mask- Framed Map ing it. Each of the three finishes makes a distinctly different after dinner dram, as Framed Classic six map 46 x 64cm £20.00(c) does the 18yo. The range of 10yo, 18yo and three finishes is now coordinated and LFW can offer a bar stand to stop your bottles going astray. Miniature Packs OB GLENMORANGIE 10 40% £21.50 Tasting packs with or without Michael OB GLENMORANGIE 18 43% £35.90 Jackson’s tasting video. A great intro- OB GLENMORANGIE—Portwood 12+ 43% £28.90 duction to the diversity of malts. OB GLENMORANGIE—Sherrywood 12+ 43% £28.90 CLASSIC SIX MINIATURE PACK £15.90(c) OB GLENMORANGIE—Madeira 12+ 43% £28.90 C6 MIN PACK + VIDEO £16.90(c) GLENMORANGIE BAR STAND £30.00(c) save £10 if bought with all five bottles GLENMORANGIE BAR STAND WITH ALL 5 BOTTLES £174.10

Peated Irish Good grief! Peat is no longer exclusive to Scotch. Ireland’s peated single malt is smooth, distinctly peated and well worth- while. Just in.

CONNEMARA 40% £19.90

SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD PAGE 7 Ne’er be wi’out yer dram! A high quality maple tippling stick with two mini cups, flask and free monster fill of The Loch Fyne. DE LUXE TIPPLING STICK £49.00(c) Miniature Packs Measure up Tummy Dept.

A range of measures to suit most occa- sions (and guests!) Pewter mini-tank- ards come in 3 sizes: 1oz(for relatives), 2oz(for friends) & 3oz(for yourself!), with optional thistle motif. The hand-made copper jug (left) holds 1/4 gill, and next time Auntie asks for “just a thimbleful” BOWMORE DRUM— you’ll be able to oblige with this pewter Legend, 12, 17 & 21yo £13.00(b) 2oz version. A selection of goodies from the food J WALKER SELECTION—Red, Black 12yo, hall—spot the favourite theme. Yummy! Gold 15yo, Cardhu & £18.50(b) 1oz Tankard (with thistle) £5.45 (£5.95)(a) GLENMORANGIE Wood Finish Selection— 2oz Tankard (with thistle) £5.75 (£6.25)(a) HIGHLAND FLING— 10 &18yo, Port, Madeira & Sherry £15.90(b) 3oz Tankard (with thistle) £6.45 (£6.95)(a) whisky mustard and whisky marmalade with a BALVENIE TRI-PACK—10yo, 12yo Double- “Just a thimbleful” £6.95(a) miniature of Loch Fyne £4.95(a) wood & 15yo Single Barrel £9.90(b) 1/4 Gill copper tankard £14.90(a) HOT TODDY SPICE KIT— the ultimate cold cure! £3.00(a) GLENFIDDICH CAKE— rich fruit cake—ideal for Xmas £10.50(b) CHOCOLATE, PECAN & GLAYVA CAKE— wonderful warm with cream! £5.60(b) GLENFIDDICH FUDGE £3.75(b) REAL HAGGIS in a skin (tinned)— Lamb with Drambuie or Venison with Glenturret £3.50(b) FRUITS IN WHISKY LIQUEUR— soused summer fruits £5.50(b) FLAVOURED GROUND COFFEE Highland Whisky or Irish Cream £2.35(a) MALT WHISKY TRUFFLES— super-creamy self-indulgence £3.00(a) Branded WaterJugs The MACALLAN Glass BLACK LABEL height 19cm £12.00(b) And remember... Forget this stuff about the right shaped GLENGOYNE 15cm £9.00(b) glass for tasting, this one’s for enjoying! HIGHLAND PARK 16cm £9.00(b) Pure hedonism from this heavy crystal SPRINGBANK 15cm £12.00(b) engraved glass, hand made for Macallan MACALLAN SMALL 8cm £5.00(a) and based on an 18th Century Jacobite MACALLAN LARGE 16cm £12.00(b) original in the V&A Museum. BUNNAHABHAIN 12cm £9.00(b) LANGS (no pic.) 15cm £9.00(b) MACALLAN GLASS £45.00(b) BLACK BOTTLE (no pic.)15cm £9.00(b) Branded Mirrors BUNNAHABHAIN 53 x 43cm £20(c) FAMOUS GROUSE 54 x 79cm £35(c) MACALLAN 39 x 53cm £30(c) No matter how BIG your order, the HIGHLAND PARK 53 x 43cm £20(c) maximum you pay is £5.90 for your delivery to one address. The letters in brackets following prices of whiskyware indicate the carriage Fine China charge for individual items if ordered Beautifully detailed, hand finished with separately, (see back of stock list). gold: Fly Fishing, Scottish Wildlife or We’re not setting Christmas delivery Game Shooting (please state choice). deadlines—as ever we’ll do our best to MINI DECANTER height 12cm £27.00(b) get it to you quickly—but it’s worth MINI WATER JUG £25.00(b) ordering soon (now?) for Christmas.

PAGE 8 SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD IT’S A HARD JOB—BUT SOMEONE’S GOT TO DO IT! 1874 REVISITED SELECTING THE SELECT Richard Joynson Charles Maclean I’m becoming a collector of old tastes. It Royal Lochnagar once had the reputa- started with the Springbank 1919 tion of being the most expensive of all (musty, like old books—Sam Browne malt whiskies, and even today the dis- belts) and continued with an 1895 dur- tillery’s ‘Selected Reserve’ must be ing Gordon & MacPhail’s centenary among the top-priced single malts. bash. In July, the prospect of journey- The reputation was established by Royal ing to London did not deter me from at- Favour. The small distillery stands on tending the launch and a wee taste of the Balmoral Estate, and within days Macallan—122 years old! of moving into their summer residence, The company directors had bought at Queen Victoria, Prince Albert and a auction (£3,900) a bottle of Macallan dis- The Macallan — The 1874 45% £64.00 bevvy of royal princes and princesses tilled in 1874 and thought to be aged in a replica presentation with a unique replica paid a call, tasted the whisky (even the wood about 20 years. In the nosing room whisky, limited release. little princesses!), pronounced it to be ex- at Craigellachie they syringed out a tiny cellent and bestowed the royal warrant. 5ml sample. Frank Newlands, ‘nose in brightness for its age. No ‘bottled’ nose This was on 12th September, 1848. The chief’, was charged with working with which would be expected, complex with royal visit is remembered each year such a miniscule sample, identifying its citrus notes, much depth—extremely when a small deputation of senior man- characteristics and recreating it from smooth.” On Trevor’s palate “feather- agement from United Distillers, the current stocks. like, smooth, soft, cool, gentle. No bot- owners of Royal Lochnagar, is enter- “The first thing that struck us was that tled flavour which normally appears as tained by the distillery manager and his it was The Macallan as we know it to- a slight grafitey flavour.” The aftertaste wife. While there they nose and approve day. This was something we had not ex- “continues to please, surprise and de- the four casks which will go into that pected—the same full-bodied, sherry light”. year’s ‘Selected Reserve’. character we believe in. The particular I always wish to be succinct in such This year your correspondent was stand- characters of this bottle were zest of or- tastings, it makes it easier to evoke a ing in for Lord MacFarlane of Bearsden, ange with a hint of lemon and an under- memory of the experience (hence the ‘old former Chairman of United Distillers tone of new sapwood. Occasionally one belts’ for the Springbank) and for this and a great enthusiast for Royal of these characters occurs in our casks.” bottle of Macallan created by a stillman Lochnagar—he introduced the ‘cask se- Frank set about gathering these traits 122 years ago, I elected to describe it as lection ceremony’. from the maturing stocks of varying ages ‘Lace’—lace of the most intricate and The casks proposed for the 1996 bottling and introducing them to each other for delicate quality. A wonderful experience. had already been selected. All were re- further marrying in wood. In every way it was The Macallan and fills at about 20 years of age—two ex- “After a week, to remind myself of my the best Macallan I have known. Oloroso butts, two ex-bourbon goal, I returned to my original sample And so to the young pretender, The puncheons (which will make about 3,000 but discovered it had evaporated to a 1874—as selected by Frank Newlands. bottles in all). Maureen Robinson, Head crust in the covered glass!”. Undeterred, Bearing in mind that this was created of Quality Control at United Distillers, Frank pressed on, relying on his from the smallest sampling, selected (i.e. Chief Nose) told me: “Age is not our memory, nosing hundreds of casks in from thousands of casks, vatted and principal concern. What we are looking search of his grail of zest. After months married—all from memory, Frank has for are superb examples of Lochnagar’s of marrying, Frank was dismayed that done an incredible job. style. A balance of the clean, piney, it was nothing like what he wanted, how- Trevor Cowan thought it “drier than the woody freshness bestowed by Bourbon ever a while later the whisky started original but with a fuller palate. Subtle wood and the fruity, nutty richness lent “turning out right”. and complex with a finish that contin- by sherry wood”. The Directors were confident that he had ues to change and please.” Perhaps it was auto-suggestion, since done a good job. In July, a panel of the The panel complemented Frank on the the distillery is surrounded by deep for- greatest noses was assembled in Lon- accuracy of his replica. ests of Scots pine, but my own impres- don, two master blenders, a perfumier I agree. Those orange/chocolate/citrus sion of these splendid whiskies was just and no less a conk than Sam Twinning, characters are definitely there, the nose that—dark, ancient, profound, noble, the tea blender. In a remarkable show softer than the original. Somehow the but still lively, resinous and fresh. of bravado this panel was backed up by taste is olden again with a very slight Married together I have no doubt what- thirty or so of ‘the world’s experts’, in- mustiness, more cloying than the origi- soever that these four casks will make a cluding Milroy, Jackson, Murray and nal but not overly so. In my opinion wonderful whisky, a true expression of Maclean, (the latter three immediately Macallan 18 year old is one of the best the character of Lochnagar—the place surrounding me—the better to crib my whiskies in my shop; The 1874 is as good as well as the malt. tasting notes!). All had gathered to wit- as, but different from, the 18. ness the opening of the original and then Relaxing after lunch, Managing Direc- Charlie has written to compare it with the replica. Four dif- tor Willie Phillips declared it “another two more excellent ferent corkscrews had been assembled good Macallan bash”. Unfortunately his whisky books, both as precaution against a duff cork but the last, as he and Frank Newlands are no on the LFW recom- first, (I suspect from the torture section longer with Macallan—this event was mended list. in Inveraray Jail), did the trick. The the day we learned of the take-over bid— ‘Discovering Scotch’ handsome and revered bottle was de- but the creation of The 1874 is a fitting (£5.99) is a colourful canted into small nosing glasses. swansong of their imagination and overview and the First the panel of four wise noses spoke devotion to quality. That they can rep- Pitkin Guide (right) in awe of the original. Trevor Cowan, licate such perfection with relative ease astonishingly good retired whisky blender, was most expres- is awesome. Let’s hope Highland can value at £2.50. sive: a colour of “medium gold, amazing respond to the challenge. Here’s a fetching picture of his nose.

SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD PAGE 9 JOHNNIE WALKER’S the striding man set him apart from the SOME LOCH DHU other types of figures that rival blend- (and some Loch Don’t) LOSS OF FACE ers were using to promote their brands, After test marketing in malt whisky bars The Johnnie Walker striding swathed as they normally were in in New York, United Distillers have re- man is probably the most fa- heather and tartan. leased Loch Dhu (pronounced—“doo”) mous and well known figure Sir Bernard Partridge, who was the ‘The Black Whisky’ here in the UK. in Scotch Whisky today and principal cartoonist for Punch magazine, The label tells us that it is a 10yo Single is certainly the oldest. Cre- drew the figure from Browne’s death in Malt from , ‘pa- ated to support the launch 1910 until the start of the first war when tiently rested in charred, sweet oak of Walker’s Red and Black he was replaced by Leo Cheney, who casks’. The bottle tells us it is black. Label whiskies in 1909, the gradually modulated the rather rakish Hold it up to a bright light and a dull striding man became the figure into a rounder and more sociable blood-donor red hue is revealed. Other- ambassador for the brand, accompany- character. The context of his work was wise no light is transmissible. ing Walker whiskies into over 120 mar- always witty, sometimes contemporary The launch blurb says “Whilst Loch Dhu kets by the end of the First World War. and cosmopolitan, always dynamic. In is an authentic , its Drawn and redrawn by a series of lead- the mid-1920s he was radically redrawn velvety black colour, exceptionally ing cartoonists, the striding man has al- in a short series of modern advertise- smooth taste and sophisticated contem- ways reflected Walker whisky in a rel- ments which were contemporary in de- porary image will encourage more ver- evant and contemporary style. Now the sign and subject but continued the tra- satile usage (mixers). We have one very man has been given a new black and red dition of wry humour displayed in ear- clear objective, to attract new and look for the twenty-first century. lier works. They were followed by ad- younger adult consumers to malt “We are very conscious of the need to verts drawn by Clive Upton who was whisky. Loch Dhu is new in style, char- maintain his appeal for current and fu- Walker’s main artist un- acter, taste and image.” ture generations of young adults. By til the late 1950s. The Intrigued, LFW investigated further and using a bold, graphic style and a fresh, figure developed by spoke to Yens Aggerbeck, the Brand contemporary approach, we believe he Upton was far gentler Development Manager. UD feel they reflects both the brand and its heritage than his predecessors, have an excellent product and are un- as well as the confident spirit of consum- a friendly and trust- derstandably reluctant to give their com- ers today,” says Jenny Vaughan, Johnnie worthy mouthpiece for petitors any information that will lose Walker’s brand director. the brand, who already them their five year head start. The original figure of Johnnie Walker had more of the benign “This is the result of 25 years superior- came from a sketch drawn up on a menu features of TV’s John ity in the scientific area of whisky mak- card by cartoonist Tom Browne in 1910. Steed of The Avengers ing and is part of a policy of producing a Originally introduced to inject new per- than of Browne’s greater range of spirits (not just whisky) sonality into their re-packaged brands, original rakish dandy. to more people,” said Aggerbeck. brothers George and Alexander (II) We learned that Mannochmore has been Walker used the striding man across a transferred from traditional casks after series of advertisements with the slogan THE ROUTE TO SUCCESS? ten years for a further one year’s matu- “Born 1820, still going strong.” Since Alan Rutherford, Production Director of ration in casks that have been treated then his dashing figure has carefully United Distillers and our first victim for previously to ‘sweet double charring’. kept pace with the fashions and style of the LFW interview (SWR2) has been This involves the heavy charring (much the day. The most recent update took made an OBE in this year’s Queen’s deeper than the normal 1-2mm) of the place in 1950. Birthday Honours List ‘for services to cask, followed by treatment with a ‘natu- Browne, a noted the Scotch Whisky Distilling Industry’. ral product’—further detail is not avail- cartoonist and Victim number 2, Andrew Dewar-Durie, able (only three people know exactly... humorist, was MD of Allied Distillers, (SWR3) is to be etc.). After a further unspecified period asked to lunch the next Chairman of CBI Scotland. of time this treatment is stopped by a with the Walker second charring. directors in Lon- NEW MAN AT LFW Then the 10yo Mannochmore is filled don and given the During the summer Roddy Charles and rests for one year. At bottling, some task of visualis- joined us to assist in every aspect of our spirit caramel is added to balance the ing the personal- business. A former tour guide at colour but is not a contributor to the ity of Johnnie Lochnagar Distillery, Roddy is the qui- blackness. Walker. He etly spoken one on our end of the phone. The taste? Back to the blurb; quickly drew on colour:— assertive, ebony black the back of a menu the now world nose:— an aroma of mint toffee famous striding man figure. body:—light, smooth & textured It has been claimed that Browne’s fig- palate:—warming spicy flavours ure was based on a (now lost) portrait of finish:—long, dry with lingering John Walker, the founder of the busi- notes of wild herbs. ness. However there are few points of The LFW experience is that many of resemblance between the striding man our customers are not impressed— and the only surviving silhouette of John too sweet and too burnt, but that non- Walker. In addition, the striding man’s whisky fans have been enjoying it costume is definitively English, and a and coming to us to learn more about parody of the fashionable Regency cloth- malts so it seems the Loch Dhu is ing of John Walker’s boyhood, but not of achieving its goal. We strongly rec- the sort of clothing that John would have ommend that everyone tries it and worn in Kilmarnock, or that he would Roddy collects his fifth successive UD is giving LFW customers the have often seen others wearing. The cos- employee-of-the-month award. chance to do just that—try Loch mopolitan and sophisticated nature of (Six times and he gets to keep the bottle). Dhu—FREE (see the back page).

PAGE 10 SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD WHISKY WORDSEARCH H L H P B N W O T F F U D C P Compiled by Ian Hallam, Brewer, Laphroaig & Ardbeg Distilleries Hidden in the square are the names of 20 malt whisky C C C T C I T U S E H T O R W distilleries, all of which appear in our stock list. As you find them, circle the word and make a list. Also hidden A E I N T L H G A R U J B A Z are six aspects of production: butt, fermentation, malt, N S D D A U V I E M I U A G L spentlees, water and yeast. One other pair of words is hidden—that of an award-winning blend of whisky! O P D M D V B A Y E N H N G D A total number of 27 words, all in straight lines but R E I G N A R O M N E L G A H often backwards, diagonal or upwards—if you don’t know how these things work, ask a four year old. D N F E E G L R A T J U L N C WIN A BOTTLE OF ARDBEG 10yo N T N B N A F H D A X W S M A Send in your entry, (even if not fully completed) with E L E D Y L A P C T H X Q O N your list of distilleries, the words circled and the number of words you have identified. In the event of a L E L R F B T A L I S K E R E draw, first out of the barrel will win a bottle of 10 year old Ardbeg, the peatiest of all malts and without G E G A H L K L N O U O S E M doubt one of the rarest—this bottling never appears Z S C A C U C N P N C R M T L on our list and is always sought after! This is a very special prize for customers of Loch Fyne K G I T O M I N T O U L B A A Whiskies presented by Iain Henderson, Manager of V N E L L E T R O P E O R W B Laphroaig and Ardbeg Distilleries—Good Luck! H C O N D A L B A L V E N I E Name ...... Address ...... Total number of ...... words found...... STODDIE’S CHRISTMAS MENU SCOTCH TASTE DEFINED Iain Stothard is the International Malt Whisky Specialist for Matthew Gloag & Son We received an interesting letter from (it’s a hard job—but someone’s got to do it!). Iain has achieved notoriety around the Dr Leopoldo Acuña of Argentina who world for hosting banquets where no wine is served—only good Scotch Whisky (it’s a visited the shop as a whisky novice but hard job... etc.). We asked Stoddie to consider a traditional Highland Christmas Lunch. left as an enthusiast. Dr Acuña had expected a ‘definitive Cream of Chestnut Soup whisky taste pattern’ but found all the served with samples he had bought to taste differ- GLENGOYNE 10yo Highland malt ent from his understanding of Scotch ‘Medium, golden tones, clear and bright. Rich aroma with hints of oak, apple, Whisky. and sherry and a smooth, long unpeated finish.’ Reading our piece on the legal definition — § — of Scotch (SWR5) he asked ‘Wouldn’t it Roast Turkey with all the Trimmings be possible to try to more accurately de- Creamed Brussels Sprouts, Diced carrots fine how Scotch Whisky really tastes?’ Creamed & Roast Potatoes An interesting challenge and one we served with were delighted to pass on to someone BUNNAHABHAIN 12yo Islay malt else, in this case the Big Barley Boffin— ‘A golden malt whisky with a remarkable fresh sea air aroma. Michael Jackson. A light to medium but firm body with a palate that gives a pleasant malty “THE TASTE OF SCOTCH WHISKY” finish. An unusual Islay malt due to its lightness and lack of heavy peating.’ “When people say that the whisky must — § — come from Scotland, they are speaking Christmas Pudding with of its appellation—and that is only half MACALLAN 10yo Speyside Malt Whisky Butter the point. The whole point is that the served with real thing tastes of Scotland: of melted MACALLAN 18yo Speyside malt snow and mountain water; of earth, ‘Deep amber colour with a honey-like sweetness coupled with hints of almonds, wind and fire. The melted snow is fil- pears and heather. Assertive sherry character, very smooth, intense and well tered through the granite of Speyside, rounded with a long lingering sherry finish.’ the sandstone of the North, the ironstone — § — of Islay, each making for different fla- Islay and Orkney Cheeses and oatcakes vours. It passes over peaty moorlands served with and heathery hillsides to meet the sweet, HIGHLAND PARK 12yo Orkney malt nutty, grainy, barley-malt of the Borders ‘An exceptionally smooth single malt from Scotland’s most northerly distillery. and the Moray Firth, dried over peaty A medium to full bodied malt with a distinct smoky sweetness. Hints of oak and fire. It matures in casks that breathe heather. The aftertaste is long, dry and full of Island character.’ the heathery air of the glens or the — § — briney, seaweedy breeze of coasts or is- Having exhausted his portfolio, Iain left us to suggest afternoon tea; lands. Those are the flavours of Scotch Mince pies and Christmas Cake whisky.” served with GLEN ROTHES 1972 Speyside malt ‘A mature oak smokiness. Spice combined with Speyside fruitiness. A rich full flavour of plums and raisins. Lingering, smooth mouth-filling finish.’ (Applications for the post of LFW laureate are Get your Stoddie ‘wines’ delivered free—see page 12. now closed—Ed.)

SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD PAGE 11 STODDIE’S ‘WINE’ DEAL: FREE DELIVERY Check out Iain Stothard’s Christmas menu (page 11). Buy any three malts from the following list and distributors Matthew Gloag will pick up the p&p tab. (Overseas deduct £5.90) Bunnahabhain 12yo 40% £21.90 Glengoyne 10yo 40% £20.90 Highland Park 12yo 40% £21.90 Macallan 10yo 40% £21.50 Macallan 18yo 43% £34.90 UNITED DISTILLERS CLASSIC SIX DEAL: FREE BOOK WORTH £9.99 Buy any two from the Classic Six range and get a copy of Lamond & Tucek’s ‘Malt Whisky File’ listing over 400 malts. Cragganmore 12yo 40% £22.90 Dalwhinnie 15yo 43% £24.90 Glenkinchie 10yo 40% £24.40 Lagavulin 16yo 43% £25.50 Oban 14yo 43% £23.90 Talisker 10yo 45% £24.50 FREE LOCH DHU: Buy any two bottles from UD’s Distill- IT’S HARD WORK—BUT SOMEONE’S GOT TO DO IT (pt. 3) ery (Fauna & Flora) range of malts and Gordon Bell reviews a sample at . Charlie get a free 20cl midi-bottle of Loch Dhu, MacLean joined a group of whisky hacks on Islay to decide the winner of the “Bell’s the Black Whisky. Alternatively, you can Managers’ Challenge”, inspired by an annual competition run between DCL(UD) ask for a 20cl Glen Ord. distilleries. The decision?—Caol Ila. Picture, Kenneth Ferguson The Distillery malts (all OB, 43%, £26.50): Lowland The BLADNOCH 10yo ROSEBANK 12yo H FY Highland C N O E ABERFELDY 15yo BLAIR ATHOL 12yo H FY C N L CLYNELISH 14yo TEANINICH 10yo O Blend of E whiskies Speyside L ™ I AULTMORE 12yo BENRINNES 15yo N L SCOTCH WHISKIES V L BALMENACH 12yo CRAIGELLACHIE 14yo £2.00E OFF!Y R G A R DAILUAlNE 16yo DUFFTOWN 15yo your nextR ApurchaseY A of GLENDULLAN 12yo GLENLOSSIE 10yo INCHGOWER 14yo LINKWOOD 12yo cask strength whisky MANNOCHMORE 12yo MORTLACH 16yo All our independent cask strength PITTYVAICH 12yo bottlings include a voucher for £2.00 off Islay a future purchase of a similar bottling. CAOL ILA 15yo Offer applies to 70cl Cask, C, JM, S or A labels of over 46%Alc, all marked * in OTHER OFFERS our list. Does not apply to OB bottlings, We have very nice heavy, round branded 35cl or those 46% and under. whisky tumblers, to give away, one with each bottle of OB Glenmoray 15yo. SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW is free to all Every bottle of OB Glenturret Malt gets bona fide mail order customers. If you have not bought by mail order from the last a Glenturret tumbler, or buy any two (Spring) catalogue and do not buy from bottles of OB Glenturret Malt 15yo or the accompanying (Autumn) list then we older and receive a super black/gold will not be troubling you again. branded ceramic water jug. We are no longer sending out Stock Lists and Buy a bottle of OB Glen Ord before SWRs to prospective customers more than Christmas and take £1.00 off the price. once. If you or a friend would like a current All our offers apply to 70cl and are while stock list please ask and you will be sent one stocks last. If sent overseas a small with a back-issue SWR. Your name will only weight surcharge may be levied. be placed on our mailing list for current SWRs when you have bought by mail order. If you are taking advantage of a deal, it is helpful if you note this on your order. We wish all our customers and friends PLEASE TELL YOUR a very Happy Christmas. BYE-BYE ‘MH’, HELLO ‘OB’ To share the Warmth of Argyll — FRIENDS ABOUT US! Official bottlings are now described in ‘perilously smooth, mellow and easy to drink’ our list as OB rather than MH (Market — include 12 bottles of the Loch Fyne and © COPYRIGHT RESERVED House); we think this is clearer. your order will be delivered free. LOCH FYNE WHISKIES 1996

PAGE 12 SCOTCH WHISKY REVIEW — LOCH FYNE WHISKIES, INVERARAY, ARGYLL, PA32 8UD