SWITCHING END NOTE TEAMS THE OSCARS MAY HAVE BEEN MEGA-LONG, SUZY MENKES IS BUT THAT DIDN’T STOP LEAVING THE NEW YORK CELEBRITIES FROM TIMES TO JOIN CONDÉ PARTYING INTO THE NAST INTERNATIONAL. WEE HOURS. PAGE 10 PAGE 7
FASHION’S NEW FRONTIER European Brands View U.S. as Growth Market
By MILES SOCHA
PARIS — By the dawn’s early light, Europe’s biggest luxury players can see a wealth of expansion poten- tial in the United States in 2014 — and beyond. “Excellent” is how Christian Dior chief executive offi cer Sidney Toledano described the business out- TUESDAY, MARCH 4, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY look Stateside. WWD “It’s not only that the American consumers are confi dent and buying more. On top of that, the U.S. is attracting more tourists, from Europe, Brazil, Russia, China. We strongly believe in the American market. This is why we decided to show the cruise in New York,” he said, also noting Dior would join the SoHo juggernaut and open a women’s boutique in the down- town Manhattan neighborhood this fall. Dior is to parade Raf Simons’ next collection in Flashy Manhattan on May 7, the fi rst of what is sure to be a slew of high-profi le fashion events in America this year. Later the same month, Hermès plans to stage its fi rst fashion show in the U.S., fl ying in about 800 of its best customers from across the country for an event in New York that will exalt its universe of women’s products. While in recent years, management attention at Point Europe’s big luxury fi rms has been fi xated on China and Dressed in short, snappy its explosive growth — telegraphed by a fl urry of fash- and shiny silhouettes, ion shows, store openings and exhibitions — a temper- ing of demand on the Mainland has shifted brands’ gaze fall’s Saint Laurent back to more traditional markets, particularly America. girl took a walk down “The U.S. is a high-potential market,” said Robert Chavez, president and ceo of Hermès USA, noting the Carnaby Street. Hedi business in 2014 “continues to be very steady, very solid.” Slimane delivered a He said a buoyant stock market, growing popula- charming collection for tion, and new pockets of wealth emerging from high- tech industries augur well for the future, even as the house, one that some analysts warn of moderated growth in luxury revolved around many after several years of swift expansion. impressive outerwear “The potential is defi nitely there,” Chavez said, stressing that local clientele in cities including Boston, options. Here, his luxe fur worn over SEE PAGE 8 a shimmering minidress. For more from the Paris Fast Shares Climb collections, see pages 4 to 6. On J. Crew Reports By VICKI M. YOUNG and KELLY WETHERILLE
INVESTORS IN TOKYO liked the idea of Fast Retailing Co. Ltd. acquiring American retailer J. FALL 2014 Crew Group Inc. Shares of Fast Retailing, Asia’s largest apparel re- PARIS tailer, rose 1.2 percent on Monday to close at 35,480 yen, or $348.46 at current exchange, on a day that saw COLLECTIONS the Nikkei 225 shed 1.3 percent. Fast Retailing is said to be in the early stages of discussions to acquire J. Crew from TPG and Leonard Green & Partners in a deal that could be valued at up to $5 billion. According to sources, a transaction could be completed within the next two months. Other fi rms are said to be eyeing J. Crew as well, and its owners are said to be continuing to evalu- ate the possibility of an initial public offering for the chain. Over the weekend, Reuters reported that South Korean fashion company E-Land Group was also interested in buying J. Crew but a spokesman for E-Land has since issued a denial. He said Monday that the report was untrue and the company has “no plans” to buy J. Crew. E-Land’s assets include K-Swiss, Coccinelle and Mandarina Duck. Analysts generally applauded the thought of a Fast Retailing/J. Crew combination. Euromonitor International’s apparel analyst Ashma Kunde said, “With Fast Retailing’s target of becoming the world’s largest apparel retailer by 2020, and hoping to reach the number-one spot in the U.S., the company could not have picked a more suitable target.” PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI SEE PAGE 8 2 WWD TUESDAY, MARCH 4, 2014 WWD.COM Meichner Exits Ralph Lauren THE BRIEFING BOX of Black Label, Purple Label, fine jewelry, eyewear, IN TODAY’S WWD By DAVID MOIN timepieces, handbags, RRL and fragrance. Also last month, Saks Fifth Avenue’s executive NEW YORK — Change continues to sweep through vice president and chief marketing officer, Denise the top ranks at Ralph Lauren Corp. Incandela, joined Ralph Lauren as president of global WWD has learned that Wayne Meichner, presi- digital and global e-commerce, replacing Eric Korman. Paris Fashion Week dent and chief operating officer of Ralph Lauren In the fall there was another dramatic move. street style. For more, Retail Group, will be leaving the company, and that Jackwyn Nemerov was promoted to president and see WWD.com. Joy Herfel has been promoted to group president of chief operating officer, succeeding Roger Farah, who wholesale and retail for the Americas, a new position. became executive vice chairman. Nemerov is respon- Herfel, a 25-year veteran of Ralph Lauren, has sible for global merchandising, manufacturing and been group president of men’s wear and children’s supply chain operations, as well as the company’s re- wear since 2009. She has been responsible for all tail, wholesale and licensing businesses worldwide. men’s brands, including Purple Label, RLX, golf At that time Lauren formed an office of the chair- and women’s golf and for all children’s brands. man, led by him, that included Farah, Nemerov and Two other key changes shook the ranks last Christopher Peterson, executive vice president and month. Valérie Hermann, former president and chief chief financial and administrative officer. Hermann is executive officer of Reed Krakoff, was tapped to be now also part of the office of the chairman. president of Ralph Lauren Luxury Collections, an- A spokesman for Ralph Lauren said other new post. Hermann will join the company in Meichner’s departure is months away, possibly DABROWSKI KUBA April and report directly to Ralph Lauren, chairman six. He had no information on Meichner’s plans. and ceo. When Hermann was selected, Lauren noted Meichner joined Polo in 2002 and had worked for PHOTO BY that the luxury part of the business has grown to a Saks Fifth Avenue for 23 years, ultimately rising point where it deserved its own focus. Hermann’s through the ranks to become the retailer’s execu- role will be an extensive one, giving her oversight tive vice president of merchandising. Europe’s biggest luxury players can see a wealth of expansion potential in the United States this year — and beyond. PAGE 1
Investors in Tokyo liked the idea of Fast Retailing Co. Ltd. Levi’s Bergh’s Compensation Drops in ’13 acquiring American retailer J. Crew Group Inc. PAGE 1
percent revenue rise to $4.68 billion. Bergh noted Wayne Meichner, By ARNOLD J. KARR president and chief operating officer of Ralph when the company reported fourth-quarter results PAGE 2 last month that 2013 was the first year in five in Lauren Retail Group, will be leaving the company.
CHIP BERGH, president and chief executive offi- which Levi’s “delivered operating profit and sales Levi Strauss & Co. cer of Levi Strauss & Co., saw his total compensa- growth at the same time.” chief executive officer Chip Bergh saw his PAGE 2 tion slip by more than a quarter in 2013 while the In its annual report filed with the Securities and cash pay rise but his total compensation fall in 2013. cash portion of his pay package rose almost 30 per- Exchange Commission last month, Levi’s also re- cent to $3.5 million. ported compensation for other executive officers. Ascena Retail Group Inc. posted a 32 percent drop in net Bergh, who joined Levi’s in September 2011, saw Harmit Singh, who joined the firm as chief finan- earnings for its second quarter. PAGE 2 his salary grow 3.3 percent to $1.2 million last year cial officer in January 2013, earned $2.9 million, and his cash bonus — or nonequity incentive plan while Anne Rohosy, president of the Americas re- Suzy Menkes will move from the International New York Times compensation — grow 50.5 per- gion, made $2.7 million. James to Condé Nast International, where she will become a critic and cent to $2.3 million, putting the Curleigh, who joined the firm in reporter for all the international Vogue Web sites. PAGE 7 total amount of his cash compen- July 2012 as president of the glob- sation for the year at $3.5 million, al Levi’s brand, earned $2.2 mil- There was no shortage of too-cool-for-school musicians at the 29.5 percent above the $2.7 mil- $3.5M lion, and Roy Bagattini, brought Saint Laurent show in Paris, but for sheer rock ’n’ roll attitude, it lion collected in 2012. in as president of the Asia-Pacific was hard to beat Alex Turner and Miles Kane. PAGE 7 His option awards slid 42.7 TOTAL AMOUNT OF LEVI’S region in June, brought in $2.1 percent to $5.8 million from $10.2 million. As new employees last CEO CHIP BERGH’S An uptick in business and a resurgence in domestic million in the prior year, while year, Singh and Bagattini received manufacturing is fueling confidence for textile firms gearing up COMPENSATION FOR 2013. sign-on bonuses of $250,000 and other compensation rose 75.1 for the Los Angeles International Textile Show. PAGE 9 percent to $248,000 from $142,000, $254,000, respectively. putting his total reported com- Singh, Rohosy, Curleigh and Winners, pensation for the year at $9.6 million, 26.4 percent Bagattini all serve as executive vice presidents of losers, newbies and veterans retired to a slew of below the 2012 level of $13 million. Because of the San Francisco-based corporation. Oscar after parties that extended the festivities a bit longer until PAGE 10 vesting schedules and other factors, option awards Separately, Levi’s reported to the SEC that it was time to put the awards season finally to bed. aren’t necessarily received by the executive but are Kevin Wilson, its interim cfo prior to Singh’s ap- reported at grant date fair value. pointment, had resigned from the firm, effective Bari Mattes, who was a senior adviser to New Jersey Sen. Cory Despite a decline in fourth-quarter profits, March 18. Wilson, formerly cfo of the global Dockers Booker, joined The Tory Burch Foundation as president. PAGE 11 Levi’s last year recorded a 59.3 percent increase brand, began supervising Levi’s finances after the in full-year net income, to $229.2 million, on a 1.6 September 2012 departure of cfo Blake Jorgensen. Playboy, to celebrate its 60th anniversary, teamed with Special Product Design to create a series of apparel and accessory products that reflect the brand. PAGE 11
Ascena Profits Fall 32 Percent in Q2 ON WWD.COM
ASCENA Retail Group Inc., which operates the There is significant price sensitivity out there. I THEY ARE WEARING: WWD went off the runways and onto Dressbarn, Maurices, Catherines, Lane Bryant and would argue it’s not just the tween shopper. We’re the streets and sidewalks for the best looks from Paris Justice brands, posted a 32 percent drop in net seeing it throughout the whole teen segment.” Fashion Week. For more, see WWD.com. earnings for its second quarter ended Jan. 25 and Differentiating the basics assortment is “a work saw softness across all of its brands. in progress.…By back-to-school, we hope to have ad- With the weather’s impact continuing right into dressed that.” The company is also planning addi- FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA early March, and particular weakness at the Justice tional sales days at Justice and looking to stage new tween chain, Ascena lowered its guidance for the types of promotions. “It’s unclear to me, as much as @ WWD.com/social second consecutive quarter and said it would be I would like to be bullish in the spring, whether we stepping up efforts to reduce inventories. have truly come out of the weather funk and whether TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. “We are implementing promotional strategies the economy has improved for consumer discretion- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. and receipt flow adjustments to bring inventory ary spending, or if we are still on a durable trend.” COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. balances back to targeted levels,” said David Jaffe, On the more positive side, Jaffe said the compa- VOLUME 207, NO. 44. TUESDAY, MARCH 4, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, president and chief executive officer. ny is making progress attaining synergies across the and two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance The company reduced its guidance for adjusted divisions to save money and by fall will have one Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. 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FOR SUBSCRIPTION, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593, call 866-401-7801, or email customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfillment. digits, an effective tax rate seen at 36 percent, capital in warmer climates there has been some better re- com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service expenditures in the range of $475 million to $500 mil- sponse to seasonal offerings. address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within lion and net store growth in the range of 50 to 70 units. Earnings were $31.9 million versus $47.2 million one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever Jaffe was candid about how tough business has in the year-ago period, attributed to a profit decline dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new been recently, and suggested some uncertainty ahead at Justice, the harsh winter and investments in new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please during a conference call. “Consistent with the over- stores, merchandising strategies, design strategies call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints of articles please contact The YGS all retail environment, we experienced increasingly and e-commerce. Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. Occasionally we make our challenging conditions, as we closed out the holiday Consolidated e-commerce sales increased 28 per- subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest selling period and ended the second quarter.” cent in the last quarter to $149 million, while consol- our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593 or call 866-401-7801. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR Jaffe said Justice has been losing some basics idated comparable store sales were down 3 percent. DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED business to big boxes, like Wal-Mart Stores Inc. Comps at Justice were down 5 percent last quarter. TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, “Consumers migrated to them just based on price. Total sales rose to $1.27 billion from $1.24 billion. UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND That’s why we said the core product is struggling. — D.M. OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. CATE BLANCHETT *CONGRATULATIONS TO CATE TO *CONGRATULATIONS
BRAVA CATE* 4 WWD TUESDAY, MARCH 4, 2014
Saint Laurent: A lot of news, including a vastly improved collection. Saint Laurent Stella McCartney Unfortunately, that part of the story lost some traction on the way out of the allegedly newly renovated Carreau du Temple. What did they do — shrink the door? Mass irritation gave way to agitation as people trying to leave the venue were literally trapped in place for what seemed an eternity. It was probably five minutes or so, but that’s four-and-a-half too long. This crowd isn’t precious. Anyone who’s covered shows for more than 10 minutes has been pushed, shoved, elbowed and trampled on the way in and out and has dealt with it. This wasn’t that. Never mind that it’s impolite to treat guests to an event that way — who cares? This felt dangerous. Word is that Saint Laurent has a three-season contract on the place. Let’s hope reasonable egress is worked out by spring. On to the more pleasant news, Hedi Slimane delivered a strong, charming collection for Saint Laurent, one with an acknowledged debt to John Baldessari, whose work and words were featured in the show’s heady invitation booklet. Though a concrete visual connection was tenuous, a more ephemeral one was not. Appropriation features heavily in Baldessari’s work, and has been all over Slimane’s runway since his Saint Laurent debut. This season, a preshow rumor had the designer enlisting Marianne Faithfull for his ad campaign. If true, it makes sense, as Slimane’s collection had its roots planted firmly on Carnaby Street, his Saint Laurent girl du jour a latter- day kindred spirit of Marianne, Jane Birkin and Edie Sedgwick. She likes her silhouettes snappy, short and shiny, whether in Lurex tweeds, sequins or mary janes and boots that looked to have been dipped in deep vats of glitter. Specific though the mood, Slimane worked it with savvy diversity; he seemed determined to prove himself something other than a one-note designer. As elsewhere this season, outerwear led the way. Though most coats were A-line with a “That Girl” perkiness, his fine use of fur indicated a luxe quotient that hasn’t always been apparent from his runway. The dresses were pretty; the skirts, crisp, and sweaters, running the gamut of cozy from Fair Isle sweet to mink-cardigan indulgent. Most importantly, young though the mood, it all made sense. As for evening — Le Smoking! Slimane also referenced another element of the house legacy, this one more of a surprise. On a credit sheet, he dubbed a trio of embroidered sparklers with graphic motifs his “John Baldessari couture dresses.” Couture — perhaps a one-season fancy. Or maybe Slimane revealed major news in four little words. Fall 2014 Stella McCartney: Energy. Movement. Function. Utility. Those words, pulled from Stella McCartney’s show notes, sum up her overall ethos. For fall, she put them into motion with her usual pragmatism and no small level of flamboyance. Paris Colle There were embroideries offbeat to the point of daring, infusing the urbane collection with a touch of the artisan hand. Brash zippers swirled and twirled into all kinds of pattern play on tailored pieces; a serious, shapely coat took on a defiant whimsy while the mirror-image ripples and shooting-star streaks across a slim jacket and pants looked more contrived. Bright-hued mountaineer cording did the decorative honors on more casual, meaty tweeds. At times, McCartney delivered the hand-hewn message with Shibori prints, as with an interesting trench and pantsuit, and a beautifully cut navy, marine and white dress with a gracefully billowing back. Appealing though it was, craftiness isn’t for everyone, and McCartney offered wise respites from such flourishes, including a pair of terrific pantsuits, one green, one burgundy. Not quite classic, these featured her WWD TUESDAY, MARCH 4, 2014 5 WWD.COM
pants of the season — sleek, stirrup Sacai Giambattista Valli trousers which bared an arc of ankle above a sensible shoe, square-toed on a wooden platform (sustainable, of course) of very manageable height. On the sportier side, her parkas looked great, in black with free- form quilting that mimicked the FOR MORE REVIEWS embroideries, and she added an AND IMAGES, SEE engaging element to fall’s near- WWD.COM/ obsession with sweater-dressing: giant runway. thick-knit cross-body bags knotted on the shoulder over matching dresses and a sweater-with-pants combo. Evening was all about the contrasting shades of rich-toned fringe festooned around the body in a manner both sensual and relaxed — a wonderfully racy combination.
Sacai: Chitose Abe’s career trajectory has been unconventional, almost to the point of mythic by fashion standards. More than 15 years after Sacai’s successful launch in Japan, Abe’s profile and business have surged since she put her show on the Paris schedule in 2011. Her niche hybrid dressing has become a hot ticket in town, and for fall she more than delivered on the hype. It was the sharpest, most sophisticated collection she’s shown in Paris. It would be ridiculous to say that Abe’s ultraspecific, at times overwhelming, method of fusing multiple garments into one could ever be construed as minimal, yet there was a cleanliness and clarity to the constructions this season. The show opened and closed with incredible outerwear — voluminous motorcycle jackets and puffers further amplified with deluxe gray and ivory Mongolian lamb accents — that were heavyweights in a category for which the seasonal bar has been set insanely high. Lighter coat options included a Pendleton-esque blanket cape and a lean, light-gray tailored coat spliced with ivory quilting. The rest of the collection was a graceful dissection and reassembly of traditional men’s wear. Fantastic knits, in gray, navy and cobalt blue, came in understandable fusions — a cobalt fisherman sweater sewn to a gray flannel blazer, for example; and slinky ribbed knit dresses with panels of scarf- printed silk ruffles on the skirts. Abe aerated the complicated volumes and compositions with sheer fabrics, velvet burnouts and pleated silks worked with tailored panels on kilts and wrap skirts. They were hybrid dressing at its most simplified. Just tie one on.
Giambattista Valli: PYTs. Many designers chase the demographic; few, however, do it better than Giambattista Valli, who hits the sweet spot each season. Fall played into that notion again, with a lineup that was sophisticated and full of youthful charm. He made the latter point most A COOL ARRAY OF LAYERS AND OUTERWEAR effectively via his silhouettes: Not one look came past the knee. Valli KEPT THE RUNWAYS HOT AS THE also approached the idea with some interesting textures and new riffs ctions SEASON HEADED INTO THE HOMESTRETCH. on volume. Specifically, several fit- and-flare dresses and coats were cut with geometric flaps on the side of the waist for an effect that resembled a handkerchief or godet skirt. The shape lent a graphic, modern edge to traditional cocktail looks. As for the surfaces, Valli played with sexy animal patterns like zebra, working them in woolly embroideries and jacquards — some literal, others abstracted to only hint at the motif. His three-dimensional wool and guipure embroideries were particularly romantic, especially on coats and a fit- and-flare dress. The designer ended the show on a refined chic note. Dresses came in grid GIANNONI weaves that were finely embellished in ruby beads, including one style
GIOVANNI featuring a tank top and puffy little BY skirt. With this, Valli sent a clear message to his PYTs in the front row: PHOTOS The social season can begin. 6 WWD tuesday, march 4, 2014 WWD.COM
FALL 2014 Elie Saab Emanuel Veronique Leonard Ungaro PARIS Branquinho COLLECTIONS
Paule Ka For more reVIeWS AND ImAGeS, See WWD.com/ runway.
Elie Saab: Filed under the title “Dark The embellishments weren’t trademark prints, but also on the way they Opulence,” Elie Saab’s fall collection completely lacking. Gentle sparkling were worn. was true to the house credo of swanky flower appliqués came on the shoulders Yin mixed and matched archival polish for day and red-carpet bankability of a bulky men’s coat, while feathers patterns on layered looks that variously for evening. made an appearance on straight-cut skirts combined floaty silk and chiffon twisted The lineup referenced Mark Rothko in matched with either a sober black leather and draped around the body, leggings its deep palette of burgundy, bottle green, T-shirt or slouchy sweater. and sheer long-sleeved T-shirts, and wool pale pink and black, shown primarily as All in all, this was a respectable pieces such as a wide-collared patchwork monochromatic looks and a few pretty, effort toward rebuilding a once- coat. Paired with buckled boots, the outfits inky dégradés. Saab cycled a series of traumatized house. gave models a quietly confident swagger. silhouettes — neat peplum tops and lean Particularly appealing were the trousers; fit-and-flare dresses, and gowns Veronique Branquinho: A sartorial men’s organic prints inspired by the work of in styles both modest and bare — through wear vibe tempered by languid layering Japanese illustrator Takato Yamamoto, the colorways, closing the show with a informed Veronique Branquinho’s which Yin developed by splicing sequined extravaganza. polished lineup for fall. together vintage Leonard designs. One There were few risks or surprises, She used traditional patterns like of these motifs appeared on the back of but the familiar, feminine shapes and pinstripes and tartans in unexpected a burgundy cocoon coat, and was also luxurious details guaranteed glamour. pairings. A plaid mohair T-shirt, for rendered three-dimensionally on a example, could have veered cumbersome, lavishly embroidered dress. Emanuel Ungaro: Backstage before the show, but when paired with an ample pleated Fausto Puglisi said he wanted to make skirt the look struck a nice balance. Paule Ka: Paule Ka’s creative director Emanuel Ungaro a “big brand” again, but Quilted orange leather insets on coat Serge Cajfinger imagined dressing a “well- that he knew there is a lot of work to do. A sleeves added a flash of strong color — traveled art advisor” for his fall collection.
step in the right direction, his fall lineup a surprise detail that kept some of the The minimalist silhouettes, done in re T
was for “a girl who is tired of showing off, traditional looks from being too classic a reduced palette of black, white and aî m who prefers to dress for herself.” Puglisi — while several dresses and tops were navy blue, had a modernist feel. Elegant noted that this season there’s “no bling, no rendered in a sequined Fair Isle motif. culottes and mixed-media tops — like a belt, no gold or accessories.” As for the gray three-piece pantsuit worn knit turtleneck spliced with a poplin shirt minique dO The designer mined the Ungaro under a short, pleated blue lamé skirt, it hem — would look right at home on the
archives and applied simplicity (Fausto had just enough shine to keep the look gallery scene. ni and style) and functionality. The sole two au courant. The brand’s iconic bows came small O
prints — one in black-and-white stripes, and ornamental on a sober trapeze Giann another in a large rose motif — looked Leonard: With its third designer in as dress, or extra-large and demonstrative vanni
fresh on masculine silhouettes including many years, Leonard is hoping to nail its on an evening bustier gown. The O
sporty wool sweaters and a leather jacket. ongoing efforts to rejuvenate the brand. reversible coats were especially Gi Elsewhere, the floral pattern read more It may have found the right match in chic, shown in either black and navy romantic on softer shapes, most notably a Yiqing Yin, whose debut collection for the sheepskin or a mix of white wool and lovely Fifties-inspired dress. house featured an update on not only its black hammered satin. PHOTOS BY
w04a006a.indd 1 3/3/14 4:58 PM 03032014165942 WWD TUESDAY, MARCH 4, 2014 7 WWD.COM Suzy Menkes Makes a Big Move Suzy Menkes and Jonathan Newhouse tion, known as the International Herald policy. “Anyway, I’ve got enough handbags By MILES SOCHA Tribune until last year. “But Suzy with already,” she added, smiling sweetly. her fierce intelligence, razor-sharp pen, Menkes joined the IHT as style editor
PARIS — “I think everything now is writ- love for fashion and enormous capacity in 1988 and was named international fash- ten for an international world.” for hard work has built it from there.” ion editor of the International New York So says journalist Suzy Menkes, who Newhouse couldn’t agree more. Times when it was re-branded last year. on Monday disclosed plans to move from “I’ve always had tremendous admira- She has also worked for The Times in the International New York Times after tion for her and wished there was a way London, the London Evening Standard 26 years at the Paris-based newspaper to to bring her talent into our organization and The Independent newspapers.
Condé Nast International, where she will in a meaningful way,” he said. Menkes is a graduate of Cambridge become a critic and reporter for all the Newhouse hinted talks with Menkes University, where she was the first female international Vogue Web sites. began some time ago, noting that when editor of the university’s newspaper. Jonathan Newhouse, chairman and the Times took sole possession of the During a wide-ranging interview on chief executive officer of Condé Nast IHT in 2003 — previously it was a joint Monday in her element — the front row International, said Menkes’ role is a new venture with The Washington Post Co. — of a fashion show — Menkes reflected on one, and she would probably start in time it provided a “psychological’’ opening for her career, the evolution of fashion jour- STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE for the Paris couture in July. discussions.” nalism, and how people misconstrue her “Suzy’s role with us will be exactly the Menkes is to be based at the CNI of- image. Here, highlights of the talk: PHOTO BY same as it was with the newspaper. She fice in London. On Monday, she lauded will do her reviews, her reportage — the the “absolutely unflinching support of the WWD: Yo u are arguably top dog at any S.M.: I do like to see collections, because same brilliant journalistic output that International Herald Tribune as it then fashion show, with all doors open to you. — and this is not a boasting session — but made her a reference,” Newhouse told was. As we all know, fashion and design- Was that always the case? the fact that I saw Raf Simons right from WWD. “People will have to go to our Web ers can be very difficult, but anytime I was Suzy Menkes: Yo u know, I’ve been doing the very beginning when he had these sites in order to know what Suzy has to having pressure put on me, my editors fashion a very long time. I started in 1968 young kids and the clothes and the music say. It reflects our commitment to quality and my editor in chief stood rock solid and I certainly did not get in [to shows] — you understand so much more about a journalism and to digital.” there for me and I will never forget that.” easily. But I never thought it was my right designer when you see them grow than if CNI has 19 Vogue Web sites in coun- to sit in the front row. And I might have you see them arrive fully formed. tries including the U.K., France, Italy, earned the right now, but I have very I’m a very curious person. I’m inter- China, Russia, Japan, Germany and many memories of getting into shows. In ested in seeing things….I am a journalist, Spain. Menkes will not contribute to the I’m a very curious fact, I’m very smart at getting in through and while other people call themselves Web site for American Vogue, which is the back door. fashion critics, I call myself a journalist. operated by Condé Nast U.S. person. I’m interested And I like to get out there where it’s hap- “I think it’s the most wonderful op- WWD: Was the job easier, or grittier, pening. That’s what I do. portunity,” Menkes said of her new role. in seeing things….I during the days before cell phones, “Change is good. It’s what fashion is all Instagram and digital photography? WWD: Do you see a future for newspapers about.” S.M.: I must admit the real problem with- and print journalism? In addition to reporting, Menkes will am a journalist, and out the cell phones was to find a phone. S.M.: There is always going to be a place be involved in organizing an annual CNI I have a great memory of the Courrèges for wonderful magazines with fantastic conference devoted to the luxury goods while other people call moon collection and I had a colleague pictures. I also believe that with newspa- industry. trying to get out early, feigning that she pers, there will be a royalty of newspa- Newhouse said the first would likely themselves fashion wasn’t feeling very well, and I knew she pers who will survive in the print form, take place in 2015. was going to beat me to the phone box, maybe not all over the world. Menkes’ move, falling during Paris which was the only one in Paris as far as Fashion Week, generated intense chat- critics, I call myself I can remember that you could get to. So WWD: And how do you see digital evolving? ter at the shows. It also creates another because I spoke French, I said to the peo- S.M.: There’s also going to be an enor- empty seat on the fashion desk at The a journalist. ple, you must look after my poor friend, mous continuing spread online, and of New York Times, coming roughly a she is very ill. Make sure she doesn’t get course I love it because it’s fast. month after lead critic Cathy Horyn left — SUZY MENKES out and I swept out, ran for the telephone That said, I think at the moment, the her post after a 15-year tenure. box and dictated my story. online media in fashion is just an abso- A succession plan has yet to be dis- lute mass of stuff that will thin out as closed, although sources said a search is Does she expect to enjoy the same WWD: What are some of the biggest chang- everything does. Just as some magazines under way to replace Horyn. freedom of expression writing for a pub- es you’ve seen in fashion journalism in ultimately don’t survive and others rise In a note to employees on Monday lisher of glossy consumer magazines? your career? to the top, so it will be with writers. signed by Stephen Dunbar-Johnson, in- “Jonathan and I have talked about that S.M.: I think that what’s changed so much ternational president of The New York and, I mean after all, unless you say what in the new Millennium is that fashion is WWD: But you think fashion journalism is Times Co., and Europe editor Dick you think, what’s the point of saying any- now considered to be something for ev- still a great career? Stevenson, the duo said Menkes’ legacy thing?” said Menkes, who will report to erybody — for everybody to wear, for ev- S.M.: I think you have to have your heart “will be with us always.” Newhouse. “I love my present’’ job and I eryone to care about and for everyone to in fashion writing if you want to do it. I That said, “We, too, will move on hope I will love my new job. That’s the write about. And it was much more of a don’t think it’s enough to love fashion. I with our commitment to covering fash- secret, isn’t it? To enjoy what you do.” coterie at the beginning when I started. have this motto that I have said to anyone ion to the highest possible journalistic Renowned for her incisive opinions, Fashion editors wrote their stories, I have ever worked with, “It’s not good standards as resolute as ever,” Dunbar- vast cultural register, work drive and but it was considered to be something because you like it; you like it because Johnson and Stevenson wrote. “We will speed — she whipped off her fall Prada that only those who were very much in- it’s good.” be announcing a new lineup to take our review in 17 minutes to meet her dead- volved would read or be interested in. fashion legacy into a fresh new era in the line for Asian issues — Menkes said she That has totally changed, especially now WWD: Any misconceptions about you that very near future.” would not stray from the strict profes- with the digital world, but it changed you’d like to clear up? They noted that the newspaper has sional codes of the Times, which prohibit long before that to me. S.M.: People think I’m so solemn and so always covered fashion “assiduous- gifts and junkets. serious. My friends know I love nothing ly” through its 126-year history, with “I’m not sure that I can go back on 40 WWD: Were you told you had to cover so more than a laugh and a joke. Eugenia Sheppard and Hebe Dorsey years of that attitude,” she said, noting many fashion shows or do you take it — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM among critics who built the title’s reputa- her previous employers also had the same upon yourself to go to so many? LAURE GUILBAULT
band Daft Punk, kept a low-verging-on- invisible profile. The two never pose FASHION SCOOPS for photographs without their signature robot-style helmets. Clementine Creevy said the track “Had RAISING KANE: There was no shortage Ten Dollaz,” which her band Cherry Jade Jagger and Kate Moss of too-cool-for-school musicians at the Glazerr recorded for the show, was an Saint Laurent show in Paris on Monday, autobiographical song, of sorts. “I only but for sheer rock ’n’ roll attitude, it was had $10 and I wanted to buy a pack of hard to beat Alex Turner and Miles Kane. cigarettes, so I spent, like, all my money The Last Shadow Puppets bandmates on cigarettes, and then I didn’t have any rolled up with an open bottle of Ruinart money left,” explained the singer. Champagne and two full glasses. “It Jamie Bochert hoped to enlist Hedi follows us around. We just arrive Slimane to do artwork for “White Light,” and it’s just there, you know,” Kane the first single from her as-yet-untitled Azzedine Alaïa and Catherine Deneuve drawled from behind dark glasses. The album, which she aims to release this Brit musicians insisted their color- year. Valérie Trierweiler, meanwhile, was Also attending the show were Pierre coordinated red-and-black outfits were still figuring out her next move after Bergé, Betty Catroux, Catherine Deneuve, Kate also a product of chance. “This was a her very public split from French Moss, Jade Jagger, Jean Paul Gaultier, Peter complete accident,” claimed Turner. “It’s President François Hollande in the wake Dundas, Bobby Gillespie, Karen Elson, Élodie a sort of a sixth sense.” of the revelation in January that he was Bouchez, Romain Duris, Fabrizio Moretti, Alison STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE By contrast, Thomas Bangalter and Guy- having an affair with actress Julie Gayet. Mosshart, Emmanuelle Seigner and Isabelle Manuel de Homem-Christo, the duo who form “I’m working on some new projects,” the Huppert. — JOELLE DIDERICH
PHOTOS BY the multiple Grammy Award-winning journalist and broadcaster said. {For more Scoops, see page 11} 8 WWD TUESDAY, MARCH 4, 2014 European Brands See U.S. as Hot Market {Continued from page one} open a maison — a boutique hous- Seattle, Houston and Dallas are ing all of the brand’s products, what drives the business. He including its furniture and home predicted the U.S. could “defi- collection — in New York in 2016, nitely outperform the Asian mar- according to ceo Marco Bizzarri. ket in terms of growth this year.” “We’re quite confident. In September, Hermès plans to Generally speaking, given the open a new location in Atlanta’s maturity of the U.S. market; burgeoning Buckhead district. our outlook for luxury growth “Even though the U.S. is the there is very positive. The high country with the biggest luxury number of luxury consumers market, we do believe it still has has really been a driving force great potential,” agreed Jean- in persuading us, over the past François Palus, group managing few years, to focus our attention director of Kering, whose luxu- even more so on the tailored ry brands include Gucci, Saint retail experience we had been Laurent, Bottega Veneta and moving toward,” he told WWD. Boucheron. “In luxury personal “The American market is very goods, I think that the market sophisticated so they have a real still has a great potential that is understanding of the craftsman- Dior is planning to open a untapped yet.” ship behind our products.” boutique in SoHo in the fall. Underpinning his confidence Versace also sees significant are “good fundamentals,” a posi- potential in the U.S. after ex- GARNITSCHNIG SONJA BY HER MÈS HARAWAY; BRYAN DIOR PHOTO BY tive perspective on the American periencing rapid growth there “It’s a big country. The potential New York, are poised to further clined to purchase goods they economy, plus an ongoing “trend- since 2011. The U.S. market has is huge,” she enthused. “It is still plump luxury spending, particu- may have seen in a shop abroad. ing up of customers.…They are shown the biggest growth for the number-one luxury market. larly European brands, he added. In a recent research note, more and more sophisticated, the company for the past three We don’t realize that because we Luca Solca, luxury analyst Solca wrote that, “e-commerce more and more educated, less years, and like-for-like sales in always think it’s China or wherever at Exane BNP Paribas, cited “a engagement can provide 1 to and less local oriented — so it all 2013 were up 29 percent com- else we think it is. It is the U.S.” strong wealth effect at play in 2 percent extra like-for-like goes in a good direction.” pared with the previous year, Upturning a recent trend in 2013, on the back of rebounding growth per year.” He estimates Palus said Kering’s luxury Gian Giacomo Ferraris, the the past few years, luxury goods real estate prices and a strong 5 percent of luxury goods were division is likely to add about a company’s ceo, said last week as sales in the Americas grew stock market. We calculate that sold online last year, and online dozen directly operated doors the fashion house revealed that faster than Mainland China in domestic American demand sales of luxury products should this year, bringing its total U.S. Blackstone Group had taken a 2013, showing a 4 percent gain, for luxury provided an unprec- grow 30 percent annually. complement to 200 boutiques 20 percent stake. compared with the latter’s 2.5 edented contribution to global It isn’t all clear sailing, though. and shops-in-shop. Among key Victoria Beckham, in Paris percent increase, according to personal luxury growth.” BNP’s expectations are more events are the refurbishments on Friday to christen a shop-in- a recent study by Bain & Co. Among the more unusual prudent on U.S. domestic de- and expansion of Gucci stores in shop at Printemps, reiterated and Fondazione Altagamma, the trends that could encourage lux- mand growth in 2014, and Solca Chicago and Beverly Hills. that her strategic focus this year Italian luxury goods association ury consumption is the slimming warns that European brands Coming off a year of double- would be the U.S., having recent- This partly reflects the in- of America, thanks to a greater face “a formidable set of com- digit growth in the U.S. in 2013, ly opened an office in New York creasing number of Chinese focus on fitness and weight. petitors in accessible luxury Bottega Veneta is planning to and made some senior hires. tourists visiting cities such as “The issue of overweight across all categories” — from Las Vegas and Los Angeles. A consumers has limited high- leather, to jewelry, to fashion — number of stores that opened end fashion development in the and that spending is skewed to- in secondary U.S. cities also past,” Solca said. wards this level of product. helped drive the growth. In Ortelli noted that more “The challenge for European 2013, the Americas were expect- American department stores brands is to convince consumers ed to post luxury sales of 69 bil- are moving to a new business they have good reasons to spend lion euros, or $95.2 billion. model, as brokers of retail more,” Solca said. Mario Ortelli, senior analyst at space, giving brands a great In a report published last week, Bernstein Research, said America ability operate their own leased he pointed to Boston Consulting should remain “one of the key en- departments and “put the right Group data touting U.S. consumers gines of growth” as its economy merchandise in place,” thus as the most important growth op- picks up steam and more people maximizing growth. portunity for the luxury industry become wealthy. Branded jewelry The popularity of online in the next few years, mainly based and leather goods offer particular shopping could also have an im- on self-declarations. potential, he noted. portant positive impact. “Industry insiders take a Surging numbers of tourists Noting that the Internet in more cautious stance, and point from Asia and South America to some way influences almost to market-share gains as the the U.S., particularly “gateway” half of luxury goods purchases, way for luxury brands to grow in Hermès will hold its first fashion show in the U.S. — in New York — this month. cities like Miami, Las Vegas and Ortelli said Americans are in- America,” Solca noted.
U.S. logistics and U.S. retail Japanese music producer and J. Crew Rumblings Propel Fast Retailing Stock space as well as Mr. Drexler.” founder of A Bathing Ape, who But they also questioned wheth- is UT’s creative director. SPRZ {Continued from page one} firm’s retail expertise, “as J noted that Fast Retailing has an er Drexler could do so “whilst NY or Surprise New York, will The London-based analyst Brand has done, particularly in “excellent ability to obtain com- maintaining J. Crew’s success.” launch on March 28 and feature said that while Fast Retailing’s terms of stepping up its store petitive locations at attractive Still, a buyout would be T-shirts, outerwear, innerwear Uniqlo chain has been shoul- expansion in Europe.” rents across Asia.” considered a major coup for and more. A collaboration with dering the weight of the par- Analysts also speculated On the sourcing side, the Tadashi Yanai, chairman, presi- the Museum of Modern Art will ent firm’s expansion plans, it’s whether Fast Retailing is con- Macquarie analysts said Uniqlo’s dent and ceo of Fast Retailing. feature items inspired by art- presence in the U.S. remains sidering opening J. Crew stores gross margins are nearly 50 per- Long an admirer of Drexler, ists from the museum’s collec- limited to big-city locations. in Japan. cent on an adjusted basis for cur- Yanai borrowed much of the tion such as Andy Warhol, Jean- “As of February 2014, the Kunde noted that the American rency fluctuations, while J. Crew’s casual basics playbook the Michel Basquiat, Keith Haring brand operated 17 stores in the brand once operated 70 stores are closer to 44 percent. Given American merchant developed and Jackson Pollock. New de- U.S., with plans to add 20 to 30 with a Japanese partner, but later potential sourcing synergies, they signs will be produced in part- new stores per year over the withdrew from the market. said raising J. Crew’s gross profit nership with living artists. next few years to reach 100. It Toby Williams and Takako margins to Uniqlo levels “would The other UT program in- is a slow-burn strategy, and Fast Wenisch, analysts at Macquarie increase EBIT by about $125 mil- volves Pharrell Williams and Retailing needs something in- Equity Research in Japan, pre- lion to $150 million.” 1.2% “I am Other,” his creative col- stant if it wishes to come close to dicted that a J. Crew Asian ex- While Fast Retailing could lective. There will be men’s its target by 2020,” she concluded. pansion could add $40 million learn much about online retail- INCREASE IN FAST RETAILING and women’s T-shirts and caps, to $80 million in earnings be- ing from J. Crew, the Macquarie available in mid-April. A new Although the Japanese group SHARES TO $348.46 MONDAY. has stakes in American con- fore interest and taxes to Fast analysts raised an interesting TV commercial for UT will fea- temporary brands Theory and Retailing. Presuming $3.7 mil- question: “[T]he really big up- ture Williams performing a song J Brand, “Fast Retailing needs lion in annual sales for the av- side to this potential deal, in our during his years at Gap Inc. and from his new album, “Girl.” something meatier to beef up erage J. Crew store — compared view, would be whether Mickey used it to successfully march The UT brand is being re- its market share [and] J. Crew with a figure closer to $10 mil- [Drexler, chairman and chief exec- Uniqlo out across the world. launched as The New Model T would certainly ramp up the lion for Uniqlo, which has some utive officer of J. Crew] could pull Uniqlo, while still seen as a this year. pace,” Kunde concluded. She very large stores in its portfolio together a second team to roll out low-price chain in Japan, has Separately, Fast Retailing’s noted that J. Crew had a 0.7 per- — the analysts predicted that Uniqlo across North America.” been moving fast to raise its secondary listing on the Hong cent share of the U.S. apparel 100 J. Crew stores at “$4 mil- The analysts concluded that style quotient in global mar- Kong stock exchange is set market, while Fast Retailing’s lion per store and a 10 percent if anyone could push Uniqlo kets. On Monday, the retailer for Wednesday. was less than 0.1 percent. margin would add $40 million to out across the U.S., it is Drexler, revealed plans to expand its — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS Kunde noted that J. Crew EBIT [while] 200 stores would, since few retail executives un- UT collection of T-shirts via two FROM KELLIE ELL, AMANDA would benefit from the Japanese in theory, add $80 million.” They derstand the “U.S. consumer, new initiatives under Nigo, the KAISER AND SHARON EDELSON WWD TUESDAY, MARCH 4, 2014 9 WWD.COM TEXTILES L.A. Firms Seeing Production Boost
By NOLA SARKISIAN-MILLER A floral print from Heat transfer prints from G&G Multitex. Alexander Henry Fabrics. LOS ANGELES — An uptick in business and a resurgence in domestic manufacturing as ap- parel companies seek sourcing options closer to home is fuel- ing confidence for textile firms gearing up for the Los Angeles International Textile Show, set to run March 10 to 12 at the California Market Center. The turnaround is also prompting some companies to expand. Asher Fabric Concepts in Los Angeles is opening a 500-square-foot retail outlet across from its showroom to meet demand and help small A novelty Lurex knit from designers with their minimums. Designer Fabric Warehouse. “There’s a big shift to make things in Los Angeles,” said Hillary Kane, who works in “Everybody wants something business development at Asher A space-dyed rayon and spandex eye-catching,” said Lauren Fabric Concepts. “We’re faster knit from Asher Fabric Concepts. Saunders, merchandise director than China and it’s easier to re- at the company. turn and exchange things.” Newness is on the mind of Kane noted that sales are up Karen Kane, co-owner and 17 to 20 percent compared with chief designer of her name- last year, a sentiment echoed by sake women’s apparel line, some of the exhibitors expected who plans to shop the show in to attend the textile show, which search of sophisticated florals, includes firms from Los Angeles, metallics, chevron patterns and New York, Canada, Spain and a textured knits. growing contingent from Turkey “I’m looking for cleaner and India, totaling about 250. prints…florals that aren’t too “In 2014, we’re already get- dramatic, not so large scale,” ting more requests, more calls along with colors that aren’t “too for different fabrics, so we’re bright,” Kane said. hoping to be up 15 percent to 20 She appreciates the later percent this year,” said Behdad show date compared with last Noorani, president of BNB year’s run in February. Textiles, a Los Angeles-based An ombré chiffon print from “It’s better timing,” Kane said. textile distributor. “There’s Designer Fabric Warehouse. “When it was in February, it was more good news out there and too quick after finishing holiday the economy is picking up.” and fall. This gives us a break.” Boosting domestic resources fered at G&G Multitex. Asian shades of graphite and pale vedge denim in narrow widths “We’re taking Internet retail- and local production services is flowers and blossoms are reso- pink. An array of prints from in a variety of shades, such as ers more seriously,” added Fee a growing trend for the textile nating with Asher Fabric cus- Cinergy Textiles Inc., including superdark indigos, blacks and at G&G Multitex. “We’ve seen show, said Oscar Rodriguez, se- tomers. Florals get an update at geometrics, chevron stripes and grays, as well as crochet sweater how the Internet has exploded nior trade shows manager at the Alexander Henry Fabrics, with plaids, will be showcased for knits, open lacy knits with chev- with companies like Nasty Gal. California Market Center. a pattern inspired by Western spring and fall. ron patterns and some tie-dyed These folks are helping drive “It’s an opportunity we con- themes using pottery and non- For designers looking for lace knits on display at Designer business at the expense of pri- tinue to see,” Rodriguez said. traditional blossoms in subdued bolder looks, there will be sel- Fabric Warehouse. vate-label brands.” Demand for fabrics and prints includes the ongoing strength in metallics. Designer Fabric Warehouse will be show- casing foil-printed metallic knits in gold and metallic jer- sey with foil prints for a flecked effect. The company, which is primarily offering spring 2015 options, also hopes to bring foil-printed denim in a heavily distressed style. Metals are also big at Asher Fabric Concepts, which is bringing foil features on knits and jerseys. Novelty yarns are another key. Alamac American Knits will offer options with gnarly, slub and mock-twist textures. The textile manufacturer will also be introducing Tencel blends, flax fibers made from polyester and Crailar, combin- ing sustainability and drape, and French Terry with a more luxurious feel. G&G Multitex Inc. will be introducing a three-end French Terry that exudes a more vin- tage look with a little stretch, in step with customer demands. “We’re getting a good reac- tion with anything in textures, including pointelle,” said Kathy Fee, merchandiser at textile mill G&G Multitex. Tropical prints and floral motifs continue to inspire. Photo-real prints will be of- 10 WWD TUESDAY, MARCH 4, 2014
Lupita Nyong’o Anne Jennifer in Miu Miu. Hathaway Lawrence in in Viktor Tom Ford. & Rolf.
eye Heidi Klum in Versace with Donatella Versace. Aaaaaand Scene THE CURTAIN finally fell on the 86th enormous glass pavilion for the occasion. Academy Awards, which took place Bill Murray was in a dancing mood as Sunday in Los Angeles but felt like they he shimmied up to Rosario Dawson and had been on for months, an impression several other ladies while Terry Richardson accentuated by its three-and-a-half-hour snapped away. “That was incredible,” telecast. Afterward, winners, losers, the photographer said. Oscar newbies and veterans retired On the edge of the dance floor, Stevie to a slew of parties that extended the Nicks chatted up Leonardo DiCaprio while festivities a bit longer until it was time Taylor Swift hung out with Jaime King, Karlie to fade to black and put the long, long Kloss and Lily Aldridge. awards season finally to bed. Nearby, Tyler was catching up with “If they only knew what was going to Lisa Bonet. “The last time I saw you, you happen tonight. The stories we would were just a little girl,” he told her. “I still have to tell…” said Jared Leto as he was am,” she cooed. Channing Tatum in leaving the awards on his way to the Traffic being a great equalizer, Lady Gaga Governor’s Ball. every star had to wait to be picked Gucci with Jenna FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE in Versace Dewan-Tatum. He was posing with his new statuette up after the party. “Dude, thank at the as best supporting actor in “Dallas Buyers god you are out here,” gasped WWD.com/eye. Vanity Fair Club” and looked well on his way to making Jonah Hill as he made his way party. good on the promise he made earlier to toward Channing Tatum. “I was “party till the break of dawn.” having the biggest anxiety attack of my At Elton John’s annual Oscars life. Did you get my texts? How many
viewing party, Britney Spears was missed calls do you have?” Tatum TYLER BOYE one of the last stars to arrive at the informed him he had been getting City of West Hollywood Park, after the car. “ Yo u don’t understand,” Donatella Versace, Jane Fonda, Heidi Hill continued. “I was standing Klum, Kim Kardashian, Steven Tyler, over there watching limo after Neil Patrick Harris, Robert De limo leave, thinking, ‘I lost my Niro and Sheryl Crow. ride and I’m going to be stuck “I’m the biggest fan here all alone.’” Bummer, bro. in the world of him. Me After the Governor’s Ball and my mom, we love him and Vanity Fair, Leto, Oscar to death,” Spears said of still in tow, made his way to the John. Habitual latecomer toughest invite to score all night, Lady Gaga swooped in for a Madonna’s after party, a blowout midmeal appearance just in that lasted until 5:30 a.m. The time for a round of air-kisses pop star managed to attract a IMAGES FOR EJAF; ALL OTHERS BY MCCARTHY/GETTY
and photo ops. Gaga, Versace couple of no-shows chez Vanity JAMIE and Fonda were among those Fair, new Oscar winners Cate who also made their way to Vanity Blanchett and Matthew McConaughey, Fair’s after party, a tradition that with the promise of swag from is now more than 20 years old and sponsor Gucci and a zero-tolerance that never seems to lose steam policy towards reporters. as the night goes on, this year Hollywood hadn’t quite until about 3 a.m. Lupita Nyong’o, recovered from its hangover Jennifer Lawrence, Anne Hathaway, the next morning when Bono, Sidney Poitier, Quincy Jones, predictions already Selena Gomez, even Olympic figure started swirling about skaters Meryl Davis and Charlie next year’s awards Jared Leto in White, were all part of the mix Sofia Vergara in contenders. Saint Laurent — MARCY at the party’s new location, an Roberto Cavalli. and Neil Lane empty parking lot in Sunset MEDINA AND at the Vanity Plaza that was transformed into an LINDZI SCHARF Fair party. KARDASHIAN BY KEENAN/GETTY IMAGES FOR CHOPARD; STEFANIE
Bill Murray with Selena Gomez in Emilio Pucci. SPEARS BY LEIBSON/GETTY IMAGES FOR PATRON; JONATHAN Britney Spears in Kim Kardashian in Michael Costello Celia Kritharioti Couture. with Elton John. PHOTO BY KLUM WWD TUESDAY, MARCH 4, 2014 11 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS Playboy Celebrates the Bunny appeal,” said Nordby. “We’ve had Andy By SHARON EDELSON Warhol and Salvador Dalí curate our BARI AND TORY: Bari Mattes, who was REBEL WITH A CAUSE: “If Audrey magazine. We often focus our collabora- a senior adviser to New Jersey Sen. Hepburn, Maria Callas or Grace Kelly TO CELEBRATE its 60th anniversa- tions at the cross section of con- Cory Booker, joined the Tory Burch fell in love with bikers, this is how r y, Playboy has teamed up with temporary art and fashion.” Foundation as president Monday. they would dress.” Such is the ethos Special Product Design to The products She succeeds Terri McCullough and will of young Italian brand Redemption create a series of apparel launched in pop-up oversee all programs, operations and Choppers, according to one of its three and accessory items that shops in stores around fund-raising efforts for the cofounders, Gabriele “Bebe” reflect the brand. the world, includ- foundation, which supports FOR MORE Moratti, a former financier There’s a Lucien ing Colette in Paris, women entrepreneurs. Mattes SCOOPS, SEE who has always had a love Pellat-Finet cashmere where a Hello Kitty will spearhead initiatives of biker culture. The label sweater for $3,000, a x Playboy x Collette for Elizabeth Street Capital, WWD.com. presented its third collection gold rabbit necklace range bowed last which the foundation formed of luxury ready-to-wear and in collaboration with week. There are pop- with Bank of America this year, accessories during Paris Hillier, $800, and tights ups at Isetan in Tokyo; and will hold a mentoring event on April Fashion Week, and is aiming to up designed by Onyva, $50. Lane Crawford in Hong 16 in San Francisco with CDFI partner international There are also mugs, Kong, Shanghai and Opportunity Fund. distribution for nail art, caps and Beijing, and ZoZo “Advancing women entrepreneurs fall, including T-shirts with the A Lucien Pellat- Villa at zozo.jp. supports countless families and is signing its first legend PLBY and a Finet sweater. Select items will essential to the health of the U.S. doors in the U.S., small rabbit logo. also be available economy, and I look forward to said Moratti. “Since the com- on playboystore.com. working with Bari to reach even more Redemption pany was taken public “Our social media network is exceptional entrepreneurs,” Burch said. Choppers, founded in 2011, we revamped promoting the collections,” Nordby The brand is donating 50 percent of the in 2010 also by our licensing portfolio said. “We have 19 million followers.” purchase price of the Tory Burch Eau Daniele Sartori to focus on long-term re- Playboy’s consumer products de Parfum Rollerball to the foundation, and Vanni Laghi, lationships with high qual- are sold in 25,000 stores in 180 coun- coinciding with International Women’s has around eight ity and design,” said Matt tries. The products do $1 billion in Day Saturday and while supplies last. retail accounts Nordby, president of global li- sales annually, Nordby said. — EVAN CLARK worldwide. The censing for Playboy Enterprises. “We gave our partners interpretive label, which Marc Jacobs designed a limited- freedom and flexibility in a way that OVERNIGHT VIGIL: With a 10 a.m. start on builds custom edition Kate Moss T-shirt in adheres to certain style param- A gold rabbit Monday, most of the guests at the Stella motorcycles the fall and is creating a few eters,” he said. “We don’t want necklace. McCartney’s show in Paris had skipped alongside its pieces for his fall collection. to take away their aesthetic. Our watching the Oscars, which are broadcast fashion activity, Hysteric Glamour men’s and women’s goal is to inspire new designers inter- in the middle of the night in Europe. donates 50 percent collections are available in Japan and acting with the brand.” “I didn’t watch because I was sure Cate of its profits to Supreme x Playboy streetwear will be Nordby said Playboy has been in- Blanchett would win, and in true French charity. It has A look from sold in the U.S. The collection includes vesting in doing collaborations with style, I already watched the Césars on already raised Redemption Vans sneakers, football jerseys and select partners and bringing them to Friday evening,” said Inès de la Fressange. 1.5 million euros, Choppers. hooded jackets in black-and-white leath- market. “We’re consolidating our port- “On Saturday night, I went to bed at 4.30 or $2.1 million at er with the bunny logo on the sleeves. folio to get fewer, bigger licensees,” a.m. because it was my daughter’s 20th current exchange, “It was important for us to represent Nordby said. “Most people think of birthday. So enough with the all-nighters, for causes through auctioning off its the brand as a design-driven lifestyle Playboy as a media asset, but it’s really especially during fashion week!” bikes, according to Moratti, although brand and continue to market its global a global brand.” “Actually, I totally forgot,” confessed he admits the fashion activity is not yet Blanca Li. The dancer, who opened the profitable. Jean Paul Gaultier show on Saturday, Clothing and accessories are is touring France with her latest show, manufactured entirely in Italy, Moratti “Robot.” Clémence Poésy said she also slept said, mainly with local high-end fabrics through the event, but was happy about dominated by leather and silk. The Blanchett’s win. “She’s so marvelous,” the fall collection riffs on a sexy mix of INTRODUCING WWD’S French actress enthused. classic elegance and more edgy rock British singer Katy B had a good ’n’ roll details, and takes in a palette excuse — she was playing at the Kenzo composed largely of black and red, with NEW MOBILE SITE after party on Sunday night. “I did touches of gold. “We try to wink at the actually stay till the end,” she said. biker culture, but with a classic fit and elegance,” Moratti explained, stressing that the brand’s aim Aluna Francis is not to surf on the biker trend and Katy B of the moment. “It’s a long-term approach.” Wholesale prices range from 60 euros, or $82, for a T-shirt to 1,000 euros, or $1,379, for certain leather pieces, while dresses average between 250 euros and 400 euros, or $345 and $552. — ALEX WYNNE
FIT FOR THREE: This year’s FIT Foundation gala will honor Linda Fargo of Bergdorf Goodman, Jay GIANNONI GIOVANNI STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE Baker and Joan Hornig. In addition Rihanna to being a FIT trustee, Baker, PHOTO BY
PHOTO BY a former president of Kohl’s, and his wife Patty are longtime The Oscars did keep away two of donors to the school, having given $10 the show’s most faithful attendees: Sir million in 2001. Hornig is also an FIT Paul McCartney and his wife, Nancy Shevell, trustee, and she donates all of the who were at the Vanity Fair Oscar Party proceeds from sales of her jewelry in in Los Angeles on Sunday night. But stores such as Bergdorf Goodman and Rihanna, Rila Fukushima, Karen Elson and Neiman Marcus to charity. Noomi Rapace were among those who Liz Peek, the chair of FIT’s board of turned out for Stella at the Paris Opera. trustees, said, “What’s really wonderful Aluna Francis said she is recording a in the world today — and what happens new AlunaGeorge album, but she and every night in New York — is being able bandmate George Reid will only pick a to honor people for really doing the title once it’s done. right thing and for being generous in Meanwhile, Marianne Faithfull — who particular for supporting your cause so was spotted puffing on an electronic magnanimously.” cigarette — is preparing for a banner About 700 guests are expected to year. “‘As Tears Go By’ came out 50 attend the June 9 event at Cipriani years ago this year. I’m going on a 42nd Street. While the party planning is world tour with the new record, I have still in its early stages, organizers hope COLLECTIONS SEASON’S a book coming out — a big picture to come up with something visual for MOST-ANTICIPATED DEBUT. book with Rizzoli — and tons of things the crowd to feast on, as was the case EASY TO READ, OPTIMIZED SPEED. happening,” said the singer, adding that last year when a video installation was AND AS FASHION-SAVVY AS EVER. a documentary was also in the works. provided by artist Jennifer Steinkamp. — JOELLE DIDERICH — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG The fabric pilled horribly I had to exchange It doN’T bUy ThiS oNe It SmellS of body odor i had To reTUrN iT I am not ImpreSSed wIth the qualIty of thIS fabrIc at all fabric ripped almoST immediaTely briNG bacK The coTToN I would not recommend i caN STill Smell The odor the fabrIc lookS cheap diSappoiNTed iN The fabric It SmellS lIke It took a chemIcal bath JUST NoT worTh iT Itchy fabrIc ThiS prodUcT USed To be made wiTh 100% coTToN
replace coTToN aNd yoU may have To replace cUSTomerS. research told us that over half of all consumers would be dissatisfied if cotton were taken out of their favorite clothing. now they’re starting to speak up. the good news is, 56% of consumers say they’re willing to pay more to ensure their t-shirts and denim jeans stay cotton rich. So if you’re thinking of replacing cotton to keep your costs down, you may want to think again. after all, there’s a reason cotton is the fabric of our lives.
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AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. Service Marks/Trademarks of Cotton Incorporated. © 2013 Cotton Incorporated. Source: The Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™ (www.CottonLifestyleMonitor.com)