Late Summer 2014 NPS PHOTO BILL LEA PHOTO

NPS PHOTO BY ELIZABETH DUPREE

Free Ranger-led Walks & Talks—Pgs 12-14

The Official Newspaper of Great Smoky Mountains National Park e late summer 2014 NPS PHOTO BILL LEA PHOTO

MOUNTAIN MAPLE The areas in Cades Cove that have been restored to natural meadows support native flowers, quail, deer, hawks, and other flora and fauna.

This small tree is a north- Park Crews Restoring A taxidermied male passenger pigeon is on display this summer at the Sugarlands Visitor Center museum. The specimen dates back to 1856. ern species that reaches the Cades Cove Meadows southern edge of its range ark Service managers community where families Exhibit Pays Homage Pwere pleasantly sur- raised corn, wheat, and rye in the Great Smoky Moun- prised this winter when bird and grazed livestock. Farming watchers and photographers and livestock grazing kept the to Passenger Pigeon tains. Here it is a common flocked to Cades Cove to see valley open. some unusual birds of prey. Since the Park Service isitors to the park’s massive flocks flew overhead. The bird lovers were reward- took over the land, their goal Sugarlands Visitor Several landmarks in the species in the higher moun- V ed with frequent sightings has been to maintain the open Center this summer will Smoky Mountain region were of both short-eared owl and character for purposes of his- have the rare opportunity to likely named for the passen- tains, mainly at elevations northern harrier, especially toric preservation and wildlife view an excellent specimen ger pigeon, including the in the fields the Park Service viewing. To do so, the Park of the now-extinct passenger Pigeon River and the town of of over 3,000 feet. In early has been restoring to natural Service employs the following pigeon. The mounted pigeon Pigeon Forge. The birds were meadows. strategies: has been in the park’s natural especially common in the autumn, mountain maple Short-eared owls and • mowing areas near the history collection since 1987, eastern hardwood forests that northern harriers are both loop road for wildlife viewing but has never been widely stretched from the eastern trees turn a pleasant orange northern species that like • burning fields every three displayed until now. Midwest to the Piedmont. open prairies and fields as years to discourage trees and September 1 of this year American beech trees provid- to red color before shedding their native habitats. The owl encourage native plants marks the 100th anniversary ed some of their favored food. had only been sighted in the • planting native meadow of the demise of “Martha,” Passenger pigeons went their leaves for winter. Smokies once or twice before species such as Indian grass, the last passenger pigeon in from billions to extinct in and the harrier is uncommon blue stem, and sunflower. existence. Martha lived at the a relatively short time due here. Throughout their range Park Service forester Cincinnati Zoo where she to such human actions as these birds of prey have Kristine Johnson is optimistic was part of a failed breeding shooting and robbing nests declined because their habitat about the future of the Cove, program. She was the last of for the young birds that were of open fields has diminished. “The former agricultural lease a species that was once the considered delicacies. This ex- They are known to migrate to practices harmed natural most numerous bird on our tinction serves as a reminder areas where voles and other and cultural resources, so planet. Over six billion pas- of the importance of conserv- small mammal prey species we are happy to see good senger pigeons lived in North ing habitat and species and are abundant. results with our restoration America during the 19th cen- strengthening the relationship Prior to park establish- efforts for both wildlife tury, darkening the sky as the between people and nature. ment, Cades Cove was a farm and visitor experiences.” smokies trip planner to order maps and guides: www.SmokiesInformation.org

accommodations pets in the park

Le Conte Lodge (accessible by Pets are allowed in frontcoun-

BILL LEA PHOTO trail only) provides the only try campgrounds and beside lodging in the park. Call (865) roads as long as they are 429-5704. restrained at all times. Pets For information on lodg- are not allowed on park trails, smokies guide ing outside the park: except for the Gatlinburg Bryson City 1-800-867-9246 and Oconaluftee River trails. Smokies Guide is produced Cherokee 1-800-438-1601 Dogs on these trails must be Fontana 1-800-849-2258 leashed. four times per year by Great Gatlinburg 1-800-267-7088 Smoky Mountains Asso- Maggie Valley 1-800-624-4431 facility rentals ciation and Great Smoky Pigeon Forge 1-800-251-9100 Mountains National Park. Sevierville 1-888-766-5948 The historic Appalachian Clubhouse and Spence Cabin Publication dates are roughly Townsend 1-800-525-6834 at Elkmont are now accepting as follows: reservations for day-use rentals. Picnic pavillions are also SPRING: March 15 available for $10-$20 per day SUMMER: June 1 at Collins Creek, Cosby, Deep AUTUMN: September 1 Creek, Greenbrier, Metcalf Bottoms, and Twin Creeks. WINTER: December 1 Abrams Creek and Balsam Mountain campgrounds are open this year. To make a reservation, call MARY ANN KRESSIG PHOTO MARY camping in the national park 1-877-444-6777 or visit www. Contributing Editors recreation.gov. The National Park Service The list below shows Steve Kemp & Kent Cave special events NPS Coordinator maintains developed camp- number of sites, elevations, grounds at nine locations in fees, approximate 2014 opera- Elizabeth Dupree the park. There are no show- tion dates, and maximum RV September 20 Editorial Board ers or hookups other than lengths. Visit www.nps.gov/ Mountain Life Festival at Karen Ballentine circuits for special medical grsm for more information. Oconaluftee Visitor Center Coralie Bloom uses at Cades Cove, Elkmont, ABRAMS CREEK 16 sites, September 27 Lynda Doucette and Smokemont. elev. 1,125’, $14, open May 23- Wilderness Act Celebration at Kristine Johnson Campsites at Elkmont, Oct. 13, 12’ trailers Bicycle morning in Cades Cove Smokemont, Cataloochee, BALSAM MOUNTAIN 46 Sugarlands Visitor Center Terry Maddox Cosby, and Cades Cove sites, elev. 5,310’, $14, open Mike Maslona may be reserved. For reser- May 23-Oct. 13, 30’ RVs bicycling December 13 vations call 1-877-444-6777 BIG CREEK 12 sites, elev. Most park roads are too Festival of Christmas Past at Contributors or contact www.recreation. 1,700’, $14, open April 11-Oct. narrow and heavily traveled Sugarlands Visitor Center Lisa Horstman, Karen Key, gov. Sites may be reserved 26, tents only by automobiles for safe or up to six months in advance. CADES COVE 159 sites, elev. enjoyable bicycling. However, picnic areas Reservations are required at 1,807’, $17-$20, open year- © 2014 Great Smoky Cades Cove Loop Road is Please see pages 8-9 for lo- Cataloochee Campground. round, 35’-40’ RVs an exception. This 11-mile, cations of picnic areas. All pic- Mountains Association Other park campgrounds are CATALOOCHEE 27 sites, one-way, paved road pro- nic areas have charcoal grills first-come, first-serve. elev. 2,610’, $20, open vides bicyclists with excellent for cooking. GSMA Site occupancy is limited March 14-Oct. 31, reserva- opportunities for viewing P.O. Box 130 to six people and two vehicles tions required, 31’ RVs wildlife and historic sites. visitor centers (a trailer = 1 vehicle). The COSBY 157 sites, elev. 2,459’, Helmets are required for Gatlinburg, TN 37738 Summer hours of operation maximum stay is 14 days. $14, April 11-Oct. 31, 25’ RVs persons age 16 and under and are: Oconaluftee & Sugar- Special camping sites for DEEP CREEK 92 sites, elev. are strongly recommended for lands: 8-7:30; Clingmans large groups are available sea- 1,800’, $17, open April 11-Oct. all bicyclists. Dome: 10-6, Cades Cove: sonally at Big Creek, Cades 31, 26’ RVs From May 7-Sept. 24, 9-7:30, Some centers close Cove, Cataloochee, Cosby, ELKMONT 220 sites, elev. on Wednesday and Satur- earlier in September. Deep Creek, Elkmont, and 2,150’, $17-$23, open March day mornings from sunrise Smokemont. Group sites must 14-Nov. 29, 32’-35’ RVs to 10:00 a.m., only bicycles other services printed on recycled paper be reserved. Call 1-877-444- LOOK ROCK 68 sites, Not and pedestrians are allowed 6777 or contact www.recre- expected to open in 2014 on Cades Cove Loop Road. There are no gas stations, ation.gov. Group sites may SMOKEMONT 142 sites, elev. Bicycles may be rented at the showers, or restaurants in the be reserved up to one year in 2,198’, $17-$20, open year- Cades Cove Campground national park. Mt. Le Conte advance. round, 35’-40’ RVs store. Lodge is the only lodging.

2 v smokies guide, Summer 2014 park information for additional information, visit www.nps.gov/grsm

Gatlinburg, TN elev. 1,462’ Mt. Le Conte elev. 6,593’

Avg. High low Precip. Avg. High low Precip. DRIVING Jan. 49° 27° 4.0” 36° 18° 6.7” DISTANCES &

Feb. 53° 28° 4.1” 37° 19° 5.6” ESTIMATED PHOTO JIM MOWBRAY March 62° 35° 5.5” 44° 25° 7.0” TIMES April 71° 42° 4.5” 52° 31° 6.7” May 77° 50° 5.7” 58° 39° 8.0” June 82° 58° 5.8” 64° 47° 8.7” Cherokee, NC to: July 85° 62° 6.3” 67° 50° 9.0” Gatlinburg: 34 miles (1 hour) Aug. 84° 61° 5.3” 67° 49° 7.6” Cades Cove: 57 miles (2 hours) Sept. 79° 55° 4.7” 62° 44° 7.2” Newfound Gap: 18 miles Oct. 70° 43° 2.9” 55° 35° 4.7” (½ hour) Nov. 60° 34° 3.4” 46° 27° 6.8” Clingmans Dome: Dec. 51° 28° 4.6” 38° 20° 6.4” 25 miles (¾ hour) The above temperature and precipitation averages are based on data for Cataloochee: 39 miles the last 20 years. Temperatures are in degrees fahrenheit. An average (1½ hours) of over 84” (7 feet) of precipitation falls on the higher elevations of the Deep Creek: 14 miles (½ hour) Smokies. On Mt. Le Conte, an average of 82.8” of snow falls per year. Primitive backcountry shelters like this one at Double Springs Gap are Gatlinburg, TN to: horse riding located along the Appalachian Trail and near the summit of Mt. Le Cherokee: 34 miles (1 hour) Conte. Reservations are required for all campers in the backcountry. Horseback riding is generally Cades Cove: 27 miles (1 hour) Backcountry Camping in the Smokies available from early March Newfound Gap: 16 miles through November. Rates are (½ hour) Camping at a backcountry Center, two miles south of $30 per hour. Most stables campsite or shelter can be an Gatlinburg on Newfound Gap have maximum rider weight Clingmans Dome: MARY ANN KRESSIG PHOTO MARY exciting adventure for per- Road (U.S. 441). (865) 436- limits of 225 or 250 pounds 23 miles (¾ hour) sons properly equipped and 1297. and age restrictions for chil- Cataloochee: 65 miles (2 hours) informed. To facilitate this ac- 3. Make your reservation dren. Please call the stables Greenbrier Cove: 6 miles tivity, the National Park Ser- through the backcountry below or stop at a visitor cen- (¼ hour) vice maintains over 800 miles office at Sugarlands Visi- ter for detailed information. Deep Creek: of trails and more than 100 tor Center (by phone or in backcountry campsites and person) or online at www. Cades Cove (865) 448-9009 48 miles (1½ hours) shelters throughout the park. smokiespermits.nps.gov. cadescovestables.com One of the greatest challenges Reservations and permits Smokemont (828) 497-2373 Townsend, TN to: for backcountry campers is are required for all overnight smokemontridingstables.com Fishing for brook trout is now Cades Cove: 9 miles (¼ hour) deciding where to go. Here stays in the backcountry. Smoky Mtn. (865) 436-5634 allowed in most park streams. Newfound Gap: 34 miles are some tools to help. The cost is $4 per person per smokymountainridingstables. (1¼ hours) 1. Go online to view the night. Reservations may be com fishing park’s official trail map made up to 30 days in ad- Sugarlands (865) 436-3535 Gatlinburg: 22 miles (¾ hour) Fishing is permitted year- (www.nps.gov/grsm/plan- vance. sugarlandsridingstables.com Cherokee: 52 miles (1½ hours) round in the park, but a yourvisit/maps.htm), which Spring hikers should be Hayrides and carriage Look Rock: 18 miles (½ hour) Tennessee or North Carolina shows all park trails, camp- especially aware of the danger rides ($12 per person) are Cataloochee: fishing license is required. sites, and shelters. Park rules of hypothermia—the lower- available from Cades Cove Either state license is valid 87 miles (2¼ hours) and regulations are also listed ing of body temperature. The Riding Stable. Wagon rides throughout the park and no here. If you wish, you can combination of rain, cold, and ($10 per person) are offered at trout stamp is required. A purchase the printed version wind is especially dangerous. Smokemont. Souvenir photos, special permit is required for of the trail map for $1 by stop- At the park’s higher eleva- tee-shirts, hats, and ice may the Cherokee Reservation and ping at any park visitor center tions, hypothermia can be a be available. Soft drink vend- Gatlinburg. Licenses are avail- or calling (865) 436-7318 x226 threat even during summer. ing is available. able in nearby towns. Fishing or shopping online at www. To prevent hypothermia, The park service operates with bait is prohibited. SmokiesInformation.org. carry good rain gear at all horse camps at Cades Cove, A free fishing map with a 2. Call or stop by the park’s times. Layer clothing that Big Creek, Cataloochee, and complete list of all park fish- backcountry office, which provides warmth when wet Round Bottom. Call 877-444- ing regulations is available at is open every day from 8:00 (not cotton). Be prepared for 6777 or visit www.Recreation. visitor centers. a.m. to 5:00 p.m. The office is sudden weather changes, es- gov for reservations. located in Sugarlands Visitor pecially at the high elevations.

smokies guide, Summer 2014 v 3 park news Great Smoky Mountains National Park protects over 800 square miles of land National Park Service Park Celebrates 50th Anniversary News Briefs of 1964 Wilderness Act Passage Official Smokies 25-cent Piece Now Available Zahniser served as presidents of the the Wilderness Society, IN JANUARY the U.S. and the two men worked Mint released into circulation its closely to draft and push Tennessee—Great Smoky Mountains forward the Wilderness Act, National Park quarter as the latest coin in JOHN DICKSON PHOTO which was signed into law on September 3, 1964 by Presi- the “America the Beautiful” series. The 25- dent Lyndon Johnson. cent piece is one of 56 quarters celebrat- Contrary to popular ing federal public lands that is produced belief, there are many differ- by the Denver and Philadelphia mints. Uncirculated versions ent types of wilderness and of the Smokies quarter and other collectible coins are available different rules for managing for sale in park visitor centers. wilderness. Broadly speaking, the Act defines wilderness as places that are left un- Armadillo Reported Near Park Boundary changed by people, where nature is allowed to run its A PARK RANGER HAS REPORTED an armadillo close to the course, and where people are national park boundary near Deals Gap. The mammals have welcome as visitors, but they been steadily expanding their range north and east for several do not remain. Over the last decades. Park officials are still considering whether to treat the half-century, over 100 million animals as non-natives or as natural re-introductions if they acres have been designated as wilderness in 757 different are documented inside the park. areas. Although more than half Green Treefrogs Invade Cades Cove of Great Smoky Mountains National Park is currently BIOLOGISTS WORKING IN CADES COVE made an un- Much of the national park is currently managed as wilderness even managed as wilderness, no official wilderness was ever pleasant discovery a couple of years ago: tens of thousands of though it has not been officially designated as such. established within the park. non-native green treefrogs. These attractive, bright green, 2”- hroughout 2014, Great with silt, that Broome be- In the past, efforts to officially long frogs are native to Florida, the Deep South, and the East Smoky Mountains Na- gan to differentiate between designate parts of the park Coast, but not the mountains. Rangers are concerned these tionalT Park is joining with “untrammeled wilds and the as wilderness were scuttled non-natives might compete with native park amphibians such other public lands agencies rifled countryside.” In one of because of unresolved road as the narrow-mouthed toad. and organizations to celebrate his many journal entries he building plans that had lin- the 50th anniversary of the summed up his feelings with, gered since the 1940s. passage of the Wilderness Act, “…one felt compelled to try to The Park Service will Please Leave Firewood at Home one of the most important conserve and defend the land commemorate the anniversa- pieces of conservation legisla- against further spoliation.” ry with a number of special FIREWOOD OFTEN HARBORS non-native insects that can tion ever signed into law. This conviction led events, including “Wilderness devastate our forests. Beetles such as the emerald ash-borer In the Smokies this anni- Broome to convene with Wednesday” talks at Sugar- and Asian longhorned lay their eggs in dead wood. Please do versary is especially import- conservation legends Robert lands Visitor Center every not bring your firewood into the park. You can collect dead ant because Harvey Broome, Marshall, Bernard Frank, Wednesday at 2:00 p.m. from and down wood in the park or purchase wood at some camp- a Knoxville, TN attorney and and Benton MacKaye in east June 18 through September avid Smoky Mountain hiker, Tennessee in 1934 and draft 17. “Wilderness Weekend” on grounds. played a leading role in both the constitution for a new or- September 27 will be high- the creation of the Wilderness ganization called the Wilder- lighted by a presentation from Share Photos, Win a National Park Vacation! Act and the establishment ness Society. By January of the Ed Zahniser, son of Howard and protection of our national following year, the four were Zahniser—widely regarded as SHARE YOUR FAVORITE PHOTOS, video clips and stories park. joined by other luminaries: the lead author of the Wilder- It was on his hikes in Aldo Leopold, Robert Sterling ness Act. To learn more about with the National Park Foundation’s Summer Scrapbook and the pre-park Smokies, while Yard, Ernest Oberholzer, and these and other events, please you could win a national park vacation and other great prizes. viewing mountainsides Harold C. Anderson; and the contact Sugarlands Visitor Learn more at www.nationalparks.org/summer. denuded by unsound logging Wilderness Society was born. Center at (865) 436-1291. practices and streams choked Both Broome and Howard

4 v smokies guide, Summer 2014 behind the scenery Great Smoky Mountains is the largest terrestrial national park in the East Amazing Grace: Rangers Return Lost Species to Smoky Mountains Bill Lea photo dreds of the birds were reared and released in the 1980s. Pairs of these birds now nest

Bill Lea photo and raise their young on rocky outcrops on some of the Smokies’ highest peaks. The most challenging successful reintroduction in park history was elk. Between 2001 and 2002, 52 elk were released into Cataloochee valley. Today, over 150 elk roam the Smokies and have dispersed into areas that include Balsam The many yearling bears in the park this summer were born in the win- Mountain, Oconaluftee, Big ter of 2012-13. Most will have separated from “mom” by late June. Creek, Maggie Valley, and the Cherokee Indian Reservation. Four species of small fish For Park Bears, 2014 were extirpated from the Smokies in the 1950s by a short-sighted attempt to elimi- is Year of the Yearling nate “rough” fish and improve game fishing in Abrams n the continuing saga of yearlings will wander far The park’s elk herd has grown from 52 to over 150 since 2002. Creek. Over the last 15 years Smoky Mountain black and wide in search of a home the Park Service has worked Ibears, the year 2014 could go of their own with food and art of the responsibili- pigeon, mountain lion, and with private and public orga- down in history as “The Year shelter that does not trespass Pty that rangers assume madtoms. Other species, nizations to restore the fish, of the Yearling.” For some on the turf of other adults. when they wear the flat hat including white-tailed deer three of which are listed as complicated reasons related Consequently, male year- and the arrowhead logo is to and wild turkey, were nearly federally threatened or endan- to female bear reproductive lings often get chased around strive to preserve the wild- extirpated by the time of park gered species. Recently, three cycles and the availability a lot and may be forced into land portions of the Great establishment. The major of the four species (Citico of fall mast, there is a higher marginal real estate no other Smoky Mountains in a natural causes of species loss were darter, Smoky madtom, and than average number of year- adult bear bothers to defend. condition. One long-standing unregulated hunting and yellowfin madtom) have been ling black bears roaming the Such a quest sometimes takes park management document trapping, unsound logging documented to be living and Smokies this summer. bears into park campgrounds aptly describes this goal as: practices, and agriculture. reproducing in lower Abrams. Since yearlings are often and picnic areas or beyond “A national park should The park’s first success- One hard-fought reintro- considered the “troublesome park boundaries where they present a vignette of primitive ful reintroduction of a lost duction effort that failed was teens” of the wildlife world, may come into conflict with America.”* species occurred in 1986 when the red wolf. Wolves were this population anomaly has property owners over gar- Accomplishing this goal 11 river otters were released released in Cades Cove and is not simple, especially in a into Abrams Creek. That Tremont in the 1990s, but It is illegal to approach within 50 yards of park that welcomes over nine ended a period of some 70 failed to successfully raise million visitors per year and years in which otters were pups. Biologists believe the bear and elk in the national park. resides in a heavily-populated absent. Today, river otters are failure was due to diseases some serious implications. bage, orchards, and gardens. region of the United States. fairly common in places like such as parvo virus and inter- While female yearlings might Said conflicts can end with the One of the biggest obstacles Abrams Creek, Fontana Lake, actions with coyotes, which share territory with mom, demise of the young bear. towards presenting a vignette Tremont, and Elkmont. migrated into the Smokies male yearlings are usually For these reasons it is of the primitive Smokies is the Peregrine falcons, the in the 1980s. Red wolves do banished and must find new more important than ever this fact that some wildlife species fastest birds in the world, continue to survive elsewhere territories of their own. In a summer to keep trash and that are native to the area were nearly eliminated from in the Southeast. place as crowded with bears people food away from bears. were eliminated during the the entire eastern U.S. by the There are currently no as our national park, that can It is best when bears retain 18th, 19th or 20th centuries. pesticide DDT in the middle plans to reintroduce the lead to conflicts. their natural fear of humans. This list of extirpated species of the 20th century. Howev- mountain lion, gray wolf, fish- By mid summer, mother Do not approach or harass includes bison, elk, gray wolf, er, thanks to the cooperative er, or bison into the park. bears have separated from wildlife. Enjoy them at a dis- red wolf, fisher, river otter, efforts of several private and *from the “Leopold Report,” (Wildlife their yearlings and will be tance of at least 50 yards. Use peregrine falcon, passenger public organizations, hun- Management in National Parks) 1963. again seeking a mate. Male binoculars to get a closer look.

smokies guide, Summer 2014 v 5 if you love the smokies... help protect this place for ourselves and our children become a proud support the member

JOHN DICKSON friends Since Friends of Great Smoky 1953, Mountains National Park Great is a nonprofit organization Smoky that assists the National Park Moun- Service by raising funds and tains public awareness and providing volunteers for park projects. Association has supported Since 1993, Friends has the educational, scientific, and historical efforts of the National Park Service through cash donations and in-kind services. In 2014 alone, the association plans to provide more than $1 million in assistance that includes saving hemlock trees, living history demonstrations, environmental education programs, sala- ries for backcountry patrols, Great Smoky Mountains National Park is one of the few large national parks without an entrance fee. Most raised over $34 million for and historic preservation. parks now charge $20 or $25 per vehicle. Without this supplemental income, it is difficult for the Smokies park projects and programs. to adequately protect wildlife, preserve historic areas, and provide educational opportunities. You can help by Association members These donations help: using some of the money you saved at the entrance to support the park partners on this page. receive a number of benefits • protect elk, bear, brook to keep them informed about trout, and other wildlife special events in the park and field school gsmi at tremont summer camps • improve trails, campsites, issues affecting the Smokies: and backcountry shelters An exciting variety of adven- Great Smoky Mountains Great Smoky Mountains • Subscription to the semi-an- • support educational pro- tures await adults who long Institute at Tremont provides Institute at Tremont offers nual, full-color magazine grams for school children to get out and explore the residential environmental a variety of summer youth Smokies Life; • improve visitor facilities park accompanied by expert education programs in Great camps in the national park. • Coming soon: Exclu- • fund special educational guides. Programs are offered Smoky Mountains National Camps last from 6-11 days sive digital access to the services like the park movie by the Smoky Mountain Field Park. Up to 5,000 students and cost from $539. Fees award-winning quarterly • preserve log cabins and School and include Mt. Le and adults annually attend include meals, lodging, and park newspaper, Smokies other historic structures Conte overnights, wildlife workshops and school most equipment. Guide, and the association’s Your donation can help workshops, edible plants, programs at the Institute. This year’s offerings in- newsletter, The Bearpaw make these projects a reali- wildflower photography, Tremont’s adult workshops clude: Discovery Camp (ages • A 15-25% discount on ty. Put a few coins or a few animal tracking, bird watch- include birding, backpacking, 9-12), Wilderness Adventure books, music, gifts, and other dollars in one of the dona- ing, salamanders, mountain environmental education, Trek, Girls in Science (ages products sold at park visitor tion boxes located at visitor cooking, and more. One day naturalist weekends, teacher 12-15), and Teen High Adven- centers and at our web store centers, roadsides, and other programs start at as little as escapes, and photography. ture (ages 13-17). • Discounts up to 20% at locations around the park. $49. Contact: (865) 974-0150 Contact (865) 448-6709 or Contact: (865) 448-6709, or more than 400 national park Buy the Smokies license plate or smfs.utk.edu www.gsmit.org www.gsmit.org bookstores across the country for your car (available in Ten- • Special discounts at area nessee and North Carolina). rental cabins, inns, restau- GSMA MEMBERS SIGN ME UP! However you choose to rants, shops, and attractions Stay in Touch with the Name(s)* ______give, your donation will really • And most importantly, help protect the Great Smoky Smokies All Year Long! ______the satisfaction of helping to Mountains for many years to preserve nature and history q Individual Annual Membership $35 Address ______come! in Great Smoky Mountains q Annual Supporting Membership $50 ______National Park *covers 2 persons per household Email (for Cub Report) ______Friends of the Smokies Join today using the cou- q Lifetime Membership $500 P.O. Box 1660 Telephone # ______pon to the right or visit www. payable in 4 installments Kodak, TN 37764 Please include your check with this form. Mail to: SmokiesInformation.org, or q Annual Business Membership $250 (865) 932-4794 call us at 1-888-898-9102 x222. GSMA, P.O. Box 130, Gatlinburg, TN 37738 1-800-845-5665 Memberships start at just $35. www.friendsofthesmokies.org

6 v smokies guide, Summer 2014 hit the trail Day hiking in the Smokies is a great way for families to escape the car and enjoy nature Great Hikes for Families

1 Sugarlands Valley Nature Trail (0.5 mile) 2 Fighting Creek Nature Trail (1.0 mile) 3 Elkmont Nature Trail (0.8 mile) 4 Cosby Nature Trail (0.75 mile) 5 Cove Hardwood Nature Trail (0.75 mile) 6 Spruce-fir Nature Trail (0.5 mile) 7 Clingmans Dome Trail (1.0 mile)

ith over 800 miles of gorgeous hiking trails to Day Hiking Tips Wchoose from, Great Smoky Mountains National Park is a wonderland for families who want to escape from • Take adequate water—minimum 2 quarts per per- the car and busy roadways and experience the peace and son per day. Never drink out of streams or springs. beauty of the Smokies. Hiking is not only great for your • Wear lace up or close-toed shoes or boots. Never health, it gives families the opportunity for bonding and wear flip flops or sandals. Footwear that provides good ankle support is best, but sneakers are fine for shared adventures that will be remembered for a lifetime. short hikes. Perhaps the best way for Other Family Favorite day • Dress in layers that can be easily removed or added families with younger children hikes include: as you heat up or cool down. Always carry a wind-re- Don’t forget to pick up a Hike to hike the Smokies is on one The Three Waterfalls Loop. sistant jacket and rain gear—even on sunny days! the Smokies—FOR FAMILIES of the park’s self-guiding nature Starting at the trailhead past log book to keep track of your • What to carry in a day pack? In addition to cloth- trails shown on the map above. Deep Creek Campground and hikes and earn cool stickers ing, rain gear, and water mentioned above: snacks, Each offers an inexpensive Picnic areas, this 2.4 mile mod- and pins for the miles you sunscreen, insect repellant, map, small first aid kit, brochure and numbered posts erate loop hike includes three cover. Available for $1 at park small flashlight, and camera. that help you learn about some impressive waterfalls you can visitor centers. of the things you see along the enjoy and photograph. • Check the weather forecast before you go. The way. Many are loop trails. Mile- Abrams Falls. Beginning Smokies are well known for their sudden, unpredict- Scavenger Hike Adventures ages shown are round trip. from the Cades Cove Loop Road, able, summer rain showers or winter snow. are 13 hikes especially for Quiet Walkways are this 5 mile roundtrip moderate • Your cell phone will not get reception in most areas families who want to engage another great way to stretch hike climbs up and down over of the park. Because of this, do not rely on your their kids in searching for clues your legs and enjoy the Smokies ridges to reach beautiful Abrams phone for directions or to call for assistance. and hidden wonders as they backcountry. Look for signs Falls. walk park trails. Your kids will along park roadways to find Oconaluftee River Trail. look for such treasures as a these short gems. A few are loop This easy, 3-mile roundtrip hike wrecked steam engine, a tree trails, but most are not, so you starts at Oconaluftee Visitor marked by bear claws, remains just walk a ways, then return the Center and follows the river into of an old Model T, and historic way you came. the town of Cherokee. Exhibit log cabins. Available at park signs along the way tell Cherokee visitor centers or by visiting Indian stories. www.SmokiesInformation.org.

smokies guide, Summer 2014 v 7 GREAT SUMMER DRIVING TOURS AND SCENIC VIEWS IN THE SMOKIES

To Knoxville To Newport To I-40 SEVIERVILLE 321 ay w Exit rk Pa 443 lls CHEROKEE NATIONAL FOREST 32 hi ot Cosby Fo Park View 129 416 411 TENNESSEE 441 Exit 451 32 NORTH C MARYVILLE AROLIN PIGEON FORGE A Pittman Mount Cammerer Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail: Center Cosby 321 321 73 Hen Wallow Falls Big 321 Gatlinburg Welcome Center Paved, narrow, 5.5 mile one-way road Creek 40 National Park o ers old-growth forest, il 321 ra T Information Center waterfalls, and historic buildings. Ga n No RVs, trailers, or buses. bes Mounta i ek Tra Cre il

ig B Mouse 129 Greenbrier Creek 411 Walland Falls Wear Valley GATLINBURG es Trail y ad a Roaring Fork asc To Chattanooga rkw Ramsey C a Motor Nature Trail Ramsey Mount Guyot P Cataract Little Brier (closed in winter) Cascades ls Gap Trail Falls il Townsend Fighting Creek h Porters t Visitors Center 321 Little Trail Sugarlands Flat o Greenbrier Laurel Visitor Center Grotto o School P Cataloochee Valley: 8 miles from F o

Falls Laurel Falls Falls r t I-40 (including 3 miles on a narrow Trail Road e 73 r s Fern Branch gravel road). The short road through Townsend r Grotto Falls C Trail Rive Maloney Point re Falls the valley o ers wildlife viewing Meigs Trail ek PISGAH T an ra i (including elk) and access to NATIONAL FOREST d rail Falls Little Mount il h a t Top T c o nu Litt Carlos Campbell a a historic church, school, and homes. R st le R Le Conte l e T Elkmont i Ch ve a r r T Overlook e r p r) a Alum Cave n m il p K i e Look Rock a t Trail A t Schoolhouse o R n n i Gap Trail n Alum Cave A Tower u Cataloochee w t o GSM Institute R P M n d Blu s i Valley at Tremont Newfound Gap Road: This paved L h c d A Overlook i e s road is the only route over the Great R N lo c Lynn Camp Smoky Mountains. It stretches IO ( T Prong Cascades for 31 miles between Gatlinburg NA Ab and Cherokee and climbs from an ra Middle Prong m s Trail Road Prong Newfound Gap F elevation of 1,300’ to 5,046’ Abrams a Trail Kephart Abrams l l s

viewing and access to a historic grist Mountain ad hours to complete. Clingmans Dome Ro mill, churches, and log homes. e d Information Center v oa Allow at least 2-3 hours. o R Clingmans Dome Road: 7-mile C Mingo Maggie ch an r) Andrews Bald paved road leads to the Clingmans ig r te B Falls Valley B in rail n w T Dome trailhead. A very steep, half- o Pa rs in rkw a ek mile walk takes you to Clingmans Mingus e ay Dellwood P d re idg Horseback Riding se C R Mill e lo lu Oconaluftee (c Dome tower and the highest point B (rental) el az in the Smokies (6,643’). Visitor Center Bone Valley H Picnic Areas 19 129 Trail Mountain Farm Oconaluftee River

l Museum i Trail Camping a r

e Soco Gap

e CHEROKEE INDIAN RESERVATION r

C 441 Nature Trails

Hazel Creek Twentymile

Loop Trail Trail p

Calderwood e

e Wolf l D CHEROKEE Lake i Major Hwys a Loop Indian Ridge r CHEROKEE Trail T Trail Creek Falls ile WAYNESVILLE m NATIONAL Twentymile enty Goldmine Juney Whank Falls Major Roads Tw Loop Tom Branch 19 Juney Whank FOREST Twentymile Trail La Falls Fontana ke Falls Trail Deep Lake Cascade Dam Fo vie Paved Roads Cheoah ntana w Creek Lak Dr Restrooms are available E e E Lake View at all park campgrounds, visitor centers, Gravel Roads SS A 441 E N picnic areas, Newfound Gap, and Great Smoky N LI N O BRYSON E R Mountains Institute at Tremont. Vault toilets, Trails T A C CITY port-o-johns, and other facilities are also

H Ap 28 available at some of the most popular T FONTANA pa Summer Auto Tours R lac 74 O VILLAGE h trailheads, including Clingmans Dome, N ia n Rainbow Falls, Grotto Falls, Abrams Falls, Great Mountain Views

Alum Cave, and the Townsend “Wye.”

JOYCE T B r KILMER - SLICKROCK a lu i 23 e WILDERNESS AREA l 74 R 129 id ge Santeetlah P ark Lake wa SYLVA y NANTAHALA NATIONAL FOREST ©GSMA2013 143 28 441 23

d 8 smokieswww .Sguide,mo kiSummeresInfo 2014rmation.org Summer 2014 ❧ 8 vwww.SmokiesInformation.org Summer 2014 ❧ 9 GREAT SUMMER DRIVING TOURS AND SCENIC VIEWS IN THE SMOKIES

Creek T (at Newfound Gap). Pr on g (closed in r d Falls a Oconaluftee Exit 20 a i Trail l o winter) R Valley e ) GR m r EA o te Overlook Smokemont T S D n Kanati Heintooga Ridge/ Cades Cove SMOKY MOUNTAIN s i Loop n w Fork Heintooga a Trail Balsam Mountain Roads: You can Visitor Center in m Trail Chasteen g d Overlook combine these roads with the e To in s Creek Falls 276 l o Blue Ridge Parkway for a scenic C l Asheville Cades Cove Loop Road: 11-mile (c 47 mile loop from Oconaluftee Visitor Chilhowee one-way loop road o ers wildlife Thunderhead Smokemont Balsam Mountain Center that takes approximately 3-4 viewing and access to a historic grist Mountain ad hours to complete. Clingmans Dome Ro mill, churches, and log homes. e d Information Center v oa Allow at least 2-3 hours. o R Clingmans Dome Road: 7-mile C Mingo Maggie ch an r) Andrews Bald paved road leads to the Clingmans ig r te B Falls Valley B in rail n w T Dome trailhead. A very steep, half- o Pa rs in rkw a ek mile walk takes you to Clingmans Mingus e ay Dellwood P d re idg Horseback Riding se C R Mill e lo lu Oconaluftee (c Dome tower and the highest point B (rental) el az in the Smokies (6,643’). Visitor Center Bone Valley H Picnic Areas 19 129 Trail Mountain Farm Oconaluftee River

l Museum i Trail Camping a r

e Soco Gap

e CHEROKEE INDIAN RESERVATION r

C 441 Nature Trails

Hazel Creek Twentymile

Loop Trail Trail p

Calderwood e

Alum Cave, and the Townsend “Wye.”

JOYCE T B r KILMER - SLICKROCK a lu i 23 e WILDERNESS AREA l 74 R 129 id ge Santeetlah P ark Lake wa SYLVA y NANTAHALA NATIONAL FOREST ©GSMA2013 143 28 441 23

d www.SmokiesInformation.org Summer 2014 ❧ 8 vwww.Smokieswww.SmokiesInformation.org,Information.org Summer Summer 2014 2014❧ 9 9 summer into fall the turn of the season is an active time for plants and animals

Birds Over two-thirds of the park’s birds head south in September and Octo-

ART BY JOHN DAWSON ART ber. Those that stick around include woodpeckers, birds of prey, and those that eat mostly seeds (finches, nuthatches, chickadees, cardinals, etc.). A few species, including the Yellow-rumped Warbler, migrate south to the Smokies for the winter.

Trees Deciduous trees at the higher elevations may start turning as early as late September. The peak of fall colors at the low to mid elevations generally occurs in late October or early No- vember and includes such outstanding trees as sugar maple, red maple, scarlet oak, sweetgum, and the hickories.

Black Bears Black bears are looking for hickory nuts and oak acorns at this time of year. If they find them, they may gain three to five pounds in a single day. The quality of the fall nut crop will affect the size of the bear population in subsequent years.

Jumping Mice Woodland jumping mice grow to eight or nine inches long (including tail) and are found mainly at the higher elevations of the park. Like the black bear, they are fattening up for winter this autumn on seeds, roots, fruits, and insects. In late October they go into deep hibernation and won’t awaken until April.

Wildflowers The mountain gentian patiently waits until September or October to show its attractive blooms. You can find its blue- or lavender-striped flowers beside trails in dry woods.

10 v smokies guide, Summer 2014 putting food by farm families raised and preserved foods in preparation for winter

tivity that provided food for winter was making sorghum molasses. The source of the syrup was sorghum cane, which was grown on many mountain farms. Sorghum juice was squeezed from the cane and cooked in a large metal pan, pot, or kettle until it thickened, becoming sorghum molasses. Many of the late summer to early winter activities that provided food for the coming year had an additional importance—they provided families the chance to gather and socialize. Everything from bean stringings, apple peelings, and corn shuckings to molasses making and hog butchering was an opportu- Molasses was made by squeezing sorghum cane and collecting the juice. That liquid was then Food preparation activities like apple peeling nity for individuals to lighten slowly cooked down over an open fire to make sweet, delicious sorghum molasses. often became social events. the load by sharing the work. These activities also helped to strengthen family and com- The family garden produced If protected from freez- arm families in the past not only had to raise munity ties. much of the fresh food that ing, some varieties stored If you would like to learn enough food to see them through winter, the family ate as well as food well through the winter and more about preserving food that would be preserved for provided “fresh” apples for they also had to devise ways to preserve that and authentic mountain winter. Although the Mason several months. Consequent- F cooking, pick up a copy of food without the help of a single refrigerator, freez- jar was patented in the 1850s, ly, some farms with large Food & Recipes of the Smokies many families continued orchards had partially-buried er, or roll of plastic wrap. Many of the methods published by Great Smoky to use drying and pickling, apple houses. Otherwise, Mountains Association. The they used for preserving food are now becoming rather than canning, as the apples could be dried for later book includes over 300 recipes primary methods for preserv- use. Some families “sulfured” and many historic photos. It’s lost domestic arts. ing food. apples to preserve them by available at park visitor cen- Some plants, like potatoes, exposing slices of the fruit ters for $15.95 or by visiting Although families ate a variety to fatten them for butchering. turnips, and cabbage, stored to sulfur smoke to kill the www. SmokiesInformation. of meats—including fish, wild Hog butchering normally well for winter use if protected bacteria. org. Proceeds from all sales game, chicken, and beef—pork took place in late fall or early from freezing. Thus, pota- Another common fall ac- benefit the park. was the meat found most of- winter after the weather was toes were often conveniently ten on a mountain farm. There cold enough to keep the meat stored in a “tater hole” right were a number of reasons from spoiling until it was under the floor of the cabin, why families preferred pork cured. Salt was the primary often near the hearth where when it came to putting meat curing ingredient. The meat they would be retrieved and on the table. Hogs were more was covered with salt and cooked. With cold-tolerant prolific than other livestock, placed on shelves or in barrels plants like lettuce, turnips, often producing several large or boxes in the meathouse. and mustard, it was possible litters each year. The meat was The salt was absorbed into the for the garden to produce relatively easy to preserve meat and retarded the growth some fresh “greens” in all but and the lard produced from of bacteria. the very coldest months of the fat was used for cooking If meat was to be smoked, winter. and soap making. In addition, it was hung in the meathouse, Apples were the most com- hogs were so self-sufficient or smokehouse, and subjected mon fruit grown on mountain that most families simply to a smoky fire for a week or farms and most families had turned their hogs out into the longer. Smoking not only add- at least a few trees. Apples woods to forage for food and ed flavor, but also produced were eaten fresh, but were also fend for themselves. chemical compounds that the source of cider, vinegar, About the only time hogs helped protect the meat from applesauce, apple butter, and Making apple butter required almost constant stirring. were penned was in the fall insects and bacteria. pies.

smokies guide, Summer 2014 v 11 guided walks & talks Programs and activities in Great Smoky Mountains National Park AUGUST 10 – SEPT. 13, 2014

Park visitor centers are located at Cades Cove, Oconaluftee, Clingmans Dome, and Sugarlands. All offer information, exhibits, and publications related to the park and its resources.

 Accessible to persons using wheelchairs.

Families who hike in the Smokies canF now earn special stickers and collector pins as rewards. Pick up a “Hike the Smokies—For Families” booklet at any park visitor center to learn more. CADES COVE Because of slow moving traffic it may take over an hour to drive the six miles from the start of Cades Cove Loop Road to programs at the Cades Cove Visitor Center/Cable Mill Historic Area.

Sundays Junior Ranger Program: “Work & Play” Nearly all ranger-guided programs are free of charge. Meet at the Cades Cove Visitor Center/Cable Mill area half way around the Loop Road 4:30 p.m. Cades Cove Evening Hayride 1:00 p.m. Join a ranger for an evening open air hayride view- Meet at the Cades Cove Riding Stables Experience what it was like to work on a farm and ing wildlife and discovering the diversity of life in 4:30 p.m. work as a family to get chores done. the Cove. Hayrides can fill up quickly, first-come, Join a ranger for an evening open air hayride view- Duration: 1 hour first-serve for this program. ing wildlife and discovering the diversity of life in Difficulty:Easy  Duration: 2 hours the Cove. Hayrides can fill up quickly, first-come, Fee: $14.00/person first-served for this program.  Duration: 1 hour WILD by Design Difficulty: Easy Meet at the Cades Cove Visitor Center area half Thursdays  way around the Cades Cove Loop Road Cades Cove Evening 2:30 p.m. Hayride A talk and hands-on demonstration about the wild Meet at Cades Cove Riding Stables GATLINBURG/ things in the park. 4:30 p.m. Duration: 30 – 45 minutes Join a ranger for an evening open air hayride view- SUGARLANDS AREA Difficulty:Easy  ing wildlife and discovering the diversity of life in the Cove. Hayrides can fill up quickly, first-come, Daily first-serve for this program. Cataract Falls Mondays Duration: 2 hours Sugarlands Visitor Center Mill Tour Fee: $14.00/person 11:30 a.m. Meet at Cades Cove Visitor Center/Cable Mill  Join a ranger on a short walk to discover why the area half way around the Cades Cove Loop Road Smokies is special in the summer. Topics may in- 11:30 a.m. & 12:30 a.m. Saturdays clude waterfalls, wildflowers, trees, history, sala- Join a ranger for walk around the historic structures Junior Ranger Program manders, and birds. at this site and learn about their function in the Meet at the Cades Cove Visitor Center/Cable Mill Duration: 1 hour Cades Cove community. area half way around the Cades Cove Loop Road Difficulty:Easy Duration: 30 minutes 1:00 p.m. Difficulty:Easy  This interactive fun activity compares your abilities Sundays to the animals of the park. Songs and Stories of the Smokies Duration: 45 minutes Sugarlands Visitor Center Tuesdays Difficulty: Easy Cades Cove Evening Hayride 2:00 p.m. (no progam August 24) The Great Smoky Mountains have a long tradition Meet at Cades Cove Riding Stables

12 v smokies guide, Summer 2014 SPECIAL PROGRAMS Cades Cove Full Moon Hike 1:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m. Join naturalist Joel Greenberg, author of the book: Meet at the Orientation Shelter at the entrance Bring an acoustic instrument and join in on this A Feathered River Across the Sky, as he explores the to the Cades Cove Loop Road old-time jam. Or just sit back and enjoy the sights story of what was at one time the most abun- 8:00 p.m. Sunday, August 10 and sounds as others play traditional Appala- dant bird in North America. Paul James of Ijams 8:30 p.m. Tuesday, September 9 chian music. Nature Center in Knoxville, will also speak on Wear comfortable walking shoes. Children under  the life and work of H.P. Ijams, who donated the 14 must be accompanied by an adult. mounted Passenger Pigeon specimen now on Mountain Life Festival Duration: 2 hours display in the Sugarlands museum. Difficulty:Easy, 2 mile walk Mountain Farm Museum adjacent to Oco-  naluftee Visitor Center Rughooking Demonstration 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. Saturday, September 20 Saturday, August 16 & Saturday, September 13 Blacksmith Demonstrations Join park staff and volunteers as we celebrate the 10:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. Saturday & Sunday, September 13 & 14 fall harvest. The Mountain Farm Museum will Meet at the Cades Cove Visitor Center/Cable 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. be alive with history as demonstrators provide Mill area half way around the Cades Cove Loop Meet at the Blacksmith building near the Cades visitors with a glimpse into the past as they make Road Cove Visitor Center/Cable Mill area soap, apple cider, sorghum molasses, hominy, Old Time Toymaking Learn the art of blacksmithing and why it was music, and more. important in the Cades Cove community. Wednesdays, August 13, 20, 27  The Echoes of their Wings: The Life and 10:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. Legacy of the Passenger Pigeon Meet at the Cades Cove Visitor Center/Cable Back Porch Old-Time Music Jam Sugarlands Visitor Center Theater Mill area halfway around the Cades Cove Loop Porch of the Oconaluftee Visitor Center Sunday, August 24 Road Saturdays, August 16, September 6 & 20 1:00 to 3:00 p.m.

that is captured in songs and stories. Join a ranger in A Waterfall by Lantern Light So you think you know a lot about bears, huh? Well an old-fashioned sing along and listen to some stories Sugarlands Visitor Center join a ranger to test your knowledge and learn more that connect us to the natural world around us. 8:00 p.m. about this “symbol of the Smokies.” Duration: 45 minutes Limit 25 people—sign up at Sugarlands Visitor Duration: 45 minutes  Center. See Cataract Falls as you’ve never seen them  before—on a lantern-lit evening stroll through the Mondays old Forks of the River Community. Thinking Like a Bear Duration: 1 ½ hours ELKMONT/LITTLE Sugarlands Visitor Center Level: Easy GREENBRIER/METCALF 2:00 p.m. F What does the future hold for the black bear in the BOTTOMS AREA Smokies? Just how does the National Park Service Thursdays manage wildlife here? Join a ranger for some insight Hike to Alum Cave Bluff Tuesdays into these and other questions. Meet at Alum Cave Bluff Trailhead on Newfound Junior Ranger: School Days at Little Duration: 45 minutes Gap Road Greenbrier  9:00 a.m. Little Greenbrier Schoolhouse Geology, old-growth trees, and 11:00 a.m. & 2:00 p.m. Tuesdays panoramic views await you while joining a park Go back in time to discover what it was like to live So You Want To Be A Park Ranger? ranger on one of the most diverse hikes in the Smok- in a mountain community and go to school in a one- Sugarlands Visitor Center ies. Wear sturdy shoes; bring water and a snack. room schoolhouse. Fun for all ages. Please arrive 15 2:00 p.m. Duration: 3 hours minutes before program start; space is limited. How do you become a park ranger? What does a park Level: Moderate to strenuous Duration: 1 hour ranger do? Join a ranger to get these and other ques- Difficulty:Easy tions answered about this exciting and rewarding job. F Duration: 45 minutes Saturdays Fridays  Junior Ranger: Lost and Gone Forever Legends of the Cherokee Sugarlands Visitor Center Elkmont Campground Amphitheater Wednesdays 1:00 p.m. 8:00 p.m. Wilderness Wednesday Talk What if there were no more birds? It happened Join a ranger for an introduction into Cherokee Sugarlands Visitor Center 100 years ago to one species, the Passenger Pigeon, history, lore, and rituals. 2:00 p.m. when the last one died in a zoo. Find out what les- Duration: 45 minutes The Wilderness Act is 50 years old! Learn why and sons we can learn from the passing of the Passenger  how wilderness areas are created, along with some of Pigeon. the history surrounding the passage of this important Duration: 45 minutes Saturdays legislation, signed by President Lyndon Johnson in  Old Elkmont 1964. Meet behind Elkmont Campground entrance Duration: 45 minutes Junior Ranger: Bear-mania! station  Sugarlands Visitor Center 11:30 a.m. 3:00 p.m. Take a morning stroll with a ranger and learn about

smokies guide, Summer 2014 v 13 Elkmont when it was a turn-of-the-century logging like on an Appalachian mountain farm. boom town. Duration: 45 minutes Fridays Duration: 1 ½ hours  Junior Ranger: Smoky Mountain Elk Level: Easy Mountain Farm Museum Tuesdays 2:00 p.m. The Tree Army Eeek! Bats! Fall is a great time for viewing elk in rut and listen Elkmont Amphitheater Porch of the Oconaluftee Visitor Center as they bugle. Discover how elk stay warm in the 8:00 p.m. 2:00 p.m. winter. Feel the weight of the antlers they carry on Join a ranger to learn about the challenges and Do they really suck blood? Do they really get caught their head. A ranger will be available to answer your threats that face this national park, and how the in your hair? Are they friend or foe? Let the Ranger questions about elk and let you know the best places actions we take every day affect the health and bio- tell you the truth about these amazing creatures and in the park to see and hear them. diversity of the Smokies. the enemy among them. Duration: 30 minutes Duration: 45 minutes   Duration: 40 minutes Difficulty: Easy  Saturdays OCONALUFTEE/ Aliens Among Us CATALOOCHEE / Wednesdays Porch of the Oconaluftee Visitor Center Junior Ranger: Can You Guess? 10:00 a.m. SMOKEMONT AREAS Oconaluftee Visitor Center Porch Do coyotes belong here? And do lady beetles? 11:00 a.m. What’s killing the trees? How did it get here? Join Daily What wears a fur coat, is about the size of a bread- a ranger and uncover the mysteries of aliens both Mingus Mill Demonstration box, greets each other with nose kisses but has never wanted and unwanted! Located a half-mile north of the Oconaluftee been to the North Pole and lives in the Smokies? Duration: 40 minutes Visitor Center on US 441 (Newfound Gap Road) They are under-appreciated but often observed.  9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Join park staff to find the answer -you just may be Once Upon a Time… Chat with a miller and feel the rumble of this histor- surprised. ic gristmill in action. Duration: 40 minutes Smokemont Campground between C-Loop and   D-Loop 6:30 p.m. Mountain Farm Museum Thursdays ...there was a Momma Bear, and a Poppa Bear Adjacent to the Oconaluftee Visitor Center The “What Is It?” Walk! and a Baby Bear...Is that true? Come discover the Dawn to Dusk Mountain Farm Museum adjacent to the real world of the American black bear in the Great Walk down to the farm for a glimpse into the past. Oconaluftee Visitor Center Smoky Mountains—myths and legends, truth and Self-guiding brochures are always available and 1:00 p.m. fiction. Bring a blanket or chair for an exciting eve- some days you may find demonstrations such as ning. We all ask “What is it?” many times. The Mountain blacksmithing, hearth cooking, gardening, or weav- Duration: 1 hour Farm Museum has an abundance of items that leave ing taking place.   us with more questions than answers. Join a ranger to learn just what they are! Meet on the porch of the OVC. Sundays Duration: 45 minutes Welcome Home! Difficulty:Easy, half mile walk Porch of the Oconaluftee Visitor Center 2:30 p.m. After more of than a century of absence, the elk have returned. Relax, have a seat on the visitor center porch and hear the story of the return of the largest mammal in the Great Smoky Mountains. Duration: 45 minutes 

Junior Ranger: Smoky Mountain Elk Palmer House, Cataloochee Valley 5:30 p.m. It’s all about connection and balance in nature to ensure survival for elk and other species living together in an ecosystem. Learn about the history of the elk through “show and tell” activities. Then stay and watch the elk come into in the fields! Duration: 45 minutes

Mondays Longing for the “Good Ol’ Days” Mountain Farm Museum adjacent to the Oconaluftee Visitor Center 12:00 p.m. You’ve heard it before but was it really the “good ol’ days?” Join a ranger for a walk on the Mountain Farm Museum and learn what life may have been

14 v smokies guide, Summer 2014 preserving history The Cherokee Indian Reservation is one of the park’s neighbors to the south. DON MCGOWAN DON MCGOWAN Teaching students to read Cherokee at the Tribal Child Care Center Hikers read one of seven decorative panels placed alongside the park’s Oconaluftee River Trail that tell traditional Cherokee stories in both English and Cherokee. The National Park Service and Eastern Band work cooperatively on a Saving the Cherokee Language number of education and historic preservation programs. isitors to the town of Cherokee, NC have probably elderly. The Cherokee strongly as long as eight hours per day. and Nightwood, the Yonaguska believe that the preservation These intensive teaching meth- Literature Initiative was created noticed that street names are displayed in both V of their culture and identity ods are so effective that young- to publish books in the Chero- English and Cherokee. These signs are just a small part depends on the survival of their sters grow up as fluent in Chero- kee language. of a much larger effort by the Eastern Band of Cherokee native tongue. kee as they are English. Cherokee If you would like to learn Unfortunately, Cherokee is High School students must also a bit more about the Cherokee Indians to save their language from extinction. not a simple language to learn. pass a course in Cherokee lan- language, the Oconaluftee Riv- The Eastern Band occu- Cherokee is from the Iroquoian guage and culture to graduate. er Trail between Oconaluftee pies some 60,000 acres of land family of languages and can A number of programs are Visitor Center and the town known as the Cherokee Indian be frustratingly complex. Ac- available for adults as well, in- of Cherokee is a great place to The Cherokee Reservation (or Qualla Bound- cording to Duane King, former cluding classes at Western Car- begin. The 1.6-mile-long trail ary) adjacent to the southern director of the Museum of the olina University for learning the features colorful exhibit panels strongly believe that boundary of Great Smoky Cherokee Indian, Cherokee language and teaching it to oth- in both Cherokee and English Mountains National Park. Some verbs may contain as many as a ers. And thanks to seed money that relate stories of the Chero- the preservation of 13,000 Cherokee are members dozen morphemes and five se- from Charles Frazier, author of kee’s ongoing relationship to the of the Eastern Band, all of mantic categories. In fact, a sin- Cold Mountain, Thirteen Moons, mountains. their culture and whom are descended from “cit- gle verb “can have over 20,000 identity depends on izen” Cherokees who were ex- forms…” King estimates. empted from the forced removal Yet the Eastern Band’s deter- the survival of their of 1838 on the infamous Trail mination to save its language is of Tears, or from Cherokee that bearing fruit. Funded in part by native tongue. escaped relocation by hiding in proceeds from Harrah’s Casino the Great Smoky Mountains. in Cherokee, the Kituwah Pres- Cherokee is one of many ervation and Education Program highly endangered native lan- is providing language learning guages in North America. The opportunities and teaching Eastern Band estimates that materials for children as young fewer than 500 people are cur- as six months. Participating rently fluent in the Kituwah pre-schoolers and some primary (Eastern) dialect of Cherokee, school students are immersed A staircase mural at Cherokee Central School System reads, in both and most of these speakers are in the Cherokee language for Cherokee and English, “As Indians we are the preservers of the Cherokee.”

smokies guide, Summer 2014 v 15 visitor information for more information, www.nps.gov/grsm information emergencies hospitals regulations accessibility

General park information: Listed below are some num- Le Conte/Sevier County -Picking or digging plants is Restrooms at all park visitor (865) 436-1200 bers to call for emergencies (865) 446-7000, Middle Creek prohibited in the park. centers (Cades Cove, Cling- www.nps.gov/grsm that arise after hours. Rd., Sevierville, TN. -Persons feeding wildlife are mans Dome, Oconaluftee, Backcountry information Park Headquarters Blount Memorial (865) 983- subject to a $5,000 fine. and Sugarlands) are fully (865) 436-1297 (865) 436-9171 7211, U.S. 321, Maryville, TN. -Pets are not permitted on accessible. The Sugarlands www.smokiespermits.nps.gov Cherokee Police Haywood County (828) 456- most park trails. Only the Valley all-access nature trail To order maps & guides (828) 497-4131 7311, Waynesville, NC. Gatlinburg and Oconaluftee is located on Newfound Gap (865) 436-7318 x226 Gatlinburg Police Swain County (828) 488-2155, River trails allow dogs on a Road just south of Sugarlands www.smokiesinformation.org (865) 436-5181 Bryson City, NC. leash. Visitor Center.

Exit 417