ISSUE 13 SPRING 2007 13 SPRING ISSUE Sonangol’s FAST FORWARD: FORWARD: FAST ■ Angola’s unique birdlife on the wing Angola’s CULTURE | BUSINESS | RARE COLOUR: OIL | ■ ANGOLA Kizomba production ups the tempo niverso U airline invests for growth SWEET MUSIC:

SONANGOL UNIVERSO ISSUE 13 – SPRING 2007

ISSUE 13 SPRING 2007

INSIDE SONANGOL INSIDE ANGOLA Congratulations! This, the 13th issue 30 of Universo, begins our fourth year of publica- 8. Easy as Kizomba A,B,C tion – a moment that The successful extraction of Block 15’s prolific bounty 30. Green Credentials gives us great pleasure, TENTS is a continuing example of how cutting-edge not least because of technology quickly becomes accepted practice as it Once at the centre of Angola’s coffee the encouragement contributes to local skills and expertise industry, Kwanza Norte is again and compliments we preparing to play an important role in have received. the country’s agricultural sector From our first issue, it has been our mission 36. Banking on the to explain the many remarkable technological feats being played CON Future out in Angola’s offshore oilfields. But we have For years Angolans have missed out gained just as much satisfaction from the on basic banking and financial opportunity to share with our readers a few of services, but now families and the countless wonders and delights of this 8 businesses are growing accustomed to huge and varied country, which has endured facilities that other communities take more than its fair share of strife. 14. Elephant Hunt for granted As the year turns, in Angola’s oil community it is never long before the conversation turns With authoritative forecasts predicting that Africa will to speculation on when in 2007 the long-await- contribute 30 per cent of global hydrocarbon supply 36 40. Fragile Beauty ed “two million barrels per day” will be Sonangol by 2010, attention is increasingly focusing on Among the many unexpected joys of achieved. There is a strong probability that this Rua 1° Congresso do MPLA, Angola’s offshore and onshore oil provinces N.º 8-16 Angola’s countryside is its vibrant and milestone in Angola’s offshore production Caixa Postal 1316, Luanda unique birdlife – but the fine balance could well be passed within the next 12 República de Angola months. Truly a moment for congratulation. Tel: +244 2 391 182 14 that maintains its variety is in danger Fax: +244 2 391 782 Another indication that Angola is now a Telex: 2089 SONANG AN significant player in the global oil and gas [email protected] 46. Stop Stress 18. Flying High industry came with the announcement late last Sonangol USA (Sonusa) As life becomes ever more pressured year that it is to join Opec and that Sonangol is 1177 Enclave Parkway With the continuing growth of Angola’s oil and gas for Luanda’s high-fliers, thankfully to host the prestigious 2nd Regional Second Floor exploration and production activities, the industry’s there are solutions at hand to soothe Houston,TX 77077 Deepwater Offshore West Africa Exploration USA favourite airline is doing well, but also has its eyes 40 away the strains of the day and Production Conference & Exhibition. Tel: +1 281 920 7600 on future opportunities Leading industry figures: engineers, aca- Fax: +1 281 920 7666 [email protected] 50. Planting the Future demics and managers from all over the world, 46 will spend three days at Luanda’s new confer- Sonangol UK Community projects initiated by ence centre to hear presentations on the latest Merevale House outside organisations in Angola often Brompton Place technology and to share their expertise. London SW3 1QE offer unforeseen rewards to all Finally, we are pleased to learn that a United Kingdom participants, fostering a genuine recent illustration in Universo by one of our Tel: +44 207 838 4600 18 contact that reaches far beyond the Fax: +44 207 589 9454 illustrators, Anthony Foronda has been selected Telex: 893212 SONANG initial event 22. French Connection to appear in the Society of Illustrators of Los Sonangol Asia Angeles’ Illustration West 45 exhibition. 3 Temasek Avenue French marine services group Bourbon is one half of --The Editor 31-04 Centennial Tower the successful Sonasurf operation with Sonangol. Singapore 039190 Tel: : +65 64 16 3583 Universo took a trip to Block 17 to see them in action Fax: +65 64 16 3582 Sonangol Department for Communication & Image –– Director: João Rosa Santos; Corporate Communications Assistant: Cristina de Novaes 28. Sharing Deepwater Expertise This magazine is produced for Sonangol by Impact Media Global Ltd, 53 Chandos Place, London WC2N 4HS, UK, Tel: +44 20 7812 6400~ Fax: +44 20 7812 6413 As Angola’s hydrocarbons production continues to Publisher: Sheila O’Callaghan; Group President: John Charles Gasser; Project Consultant: Nathalie MacCarthy Editor: Peter Moeller; Sub-editor: Ron Gribble; Art Director: Lisa Pampillonia; Advertising Design: Bernd Wojtczack; Circulation Manager: Tony Adkins grow, a major conference at Luanda’s state-of-the-art Contributors: Nina Asz, Karen Iley, Bruce McMichael, Cathy Hamlin; Cover Photo: A sonair helicopter lifts off from block 17 (PMP Global) convention centre will play host to leaders of the All rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical without prior permission in writing from the publishers. 22 global oil and gas industry [email protected]

4 SONANGOL UNIVERSO NEWS IN BRIEF

Eni has signed a PSA with Joining in First Rights First Oil Sonangol for the 2,984sq.km Angola is to join the influential Organisa- Petrobras, Brazil’s state oil company, has Chevron has started pumping oil from deepwater exploration Block tion of Petroleum Exporting Countries (Opec), signed four production-sharing deals with its Tombua-Landana project as it prepares to 15/06. The deal involves drilling bringing the group its first new member for 35 Sonangol, thereby winning operating rights sign a series of contracts to further develop eight wells and conducting seis- years. From March 2007, Angola will join eleven in Angola for the first time. Under the agree- the Block 14 deepwater fields which lie in mic surveys during the first five fellow-producing countries such as Kuwait, Libya, ments, Petrobras will acquire 3D seismic data depths of between 270m and 370m. years of exploration. Eni arrived Nigeria, Saudi Arabia, Venezuela and the UAE. and then drill offshore exploration wells on First oil flowed from the Landana North- in Angola in 1980 and produces Angola’s membership comes as its oil and natu- shallow-water Block 6/06 in the Kwanza 1 subsea well, which is tied back to the more than 150,000 bpd. ral gas production is set to soar in the coming years basin, as well as the deepwater Block 18/06 existing Benguela-Belize Lobito-Tomboco with billions of dollars being invested in exploration in the Lower Congo basin and Block 26 on compliant piled tower. Devon Energy, the US- and production by American, European and, increas- the deepwater frontier Benguela basin. Petro- International contractor Subsea 7 won the based oil and gas producer, is ingly, by Chinese oil companies. bras will be Block 6/06 operator with a 40 $290m Engineering, Procurement, Installation leading a group which includes The country is expected to deliver upwards of 2m per cent stake, and the initial exploration and Commissioning (Epic) contract in which it Sonangol, Galp and Repsol to bpd in 2008 – almost double its output in 2006 – says phase will see the oil major shoot 3D seismic undertook to deliver and install pipelines, invest $39.6 million in exploring Francisco Lopes da Cunha, Sonangol’s chief geophysicist. In and sink two exploration wells. flowline jumpers, connectors and umbilicals for oil in Angola’s Cabinda 2005 Angolan wells yielded some 1.25m bpd. Recognised as one of the world’s leaders fabricated by Sevenseas Angola Ltd, based at province. Work is expected to Gas production will also increase, with Angola’s Prime Minister Fernando Dias dos Santos in deep-sea oil exploration and production, the Sonils oil service centre, Luanda. start by the end of 2007. reporting that the huge Angola liquefied natural gas project (Angola LNG) will process about five Petrobras has been working in Angola since Production from the completed develop- Roc Oil has signed a two- billion tonnes of gas in its first phase. Speaking in October 2006 at an international meeting in 1979 and describes the country as one of its ment is expected to peak by 2010 at around year contract with Simmons Luanda on the implementation of the Kyoto Protocol’s clean development mechanism – a key investment priorities. 100,000 bpd. Drilling Overseas in which the tool in Angola’s mission to reduce wasteful gas flaring – the prime minister stated that the Simmons 80 rig is expected to project was hugely significant for the country. start drilling onshore Cabinda by Already Sub-Saharan Africa’s second largest oil producer after Nigeria, Angola is also one of the end of May 2007. The rig the world’s fastest growing economies and, according to the IMF, forecast to increase growth by Dalia Blooms will be capable of drilling to 31.4 per cent in 2007. Total’s Dalia Field also came on stream in December 2006 – ILLUSTRATIONS: GREG GRIGORIOU depths of 4,000m. the second FPSO to be commissioned on Block 17. Said to be the largest of its kind in the world, the giant facility is served by 71 InterOil and Vaalco are New Deal Exhibiting Excellence subsea wells and 40km of production flowlines, and has a pro- members of an international Maersk Oil and Occidental Sonangol Distribuadora, Sonangol’s supply and cessing capacity of 240,000 bpd and storage for 2 million barrels. group about to undertake a Petroleum have struck a produc- distribution division, won the Best Exhibition Stand tro- With the 250,000 bpd potential of the Rosa Field next in the new search in Block 05/06, and tion-sharing deal with Sonangol phy in the services section at the Constrói Angola, the Block 17 production frame, the French oil major is now con- hoping to use data gathered for blocks 8 and 23, offshore fourth annual International Civil Construction, Public sidering development options for its Orquidea field after appraisal during the 1980s and 1990s. At Angola. Maersk holds a 50 per Works and Security Fair held in of a second well, Orquidea-2, confirmed and expanded the potential that time, 12 wells were drilled cent operating stake in the Luanda in October 2006. More of the original discovery. Orquidea-2 lies close to the Orquidea-1 well with at least five finding hydro- blocks, with partners Sonangol than 200 local and international and was drilled in depths of 1,165m. Total operates the block with carbons, though none of the holding 20 per cent and Occiden- companies were represented at partners ExxonMobil, BP, Statoil and Norsk Hydro. discoveries were developed at tal 30 per cent. The blocks each the show that enables gov- the time. A 3D survey has been cover areas of some 5,000sq.km ernment officials and shot in anticipation of in water depths of 500m and potential investors to Deepwater Queen exploratory drilling by 2008. 1,500m respectively. meet and discuss BP has struck oil again in the prolific deepwater Block 31 offshore Angola. Its recent Maersk is planning a four-year major engineering Saipem has emerged as the Titania discovery was made by the drillship Jack Ryan at a total depth of 5,339m. Water exploration phase involving a contracts in the favoured contender to lay depth in the area is some 2,100m. series of seismic studies and country. Around The other finds in this prolific block are Urano, Plutão, Saturno, Marte, Venus, Palas, 120km of pipeline planned to exploration wells before deciding 70 per cent of Ceres, Juno, Astraea and Hebe. run from Block 17 to Angola’s how to develop the field. The the exhibitors The Titania field is located in the western part of the block, some 380km north west of proposed LNG plant at Soyo. Danish company is already active were local firms, Luanda, and is approximately 23km north west of Hebe, which was discovered in 2005. BP The recommendation by block in Angola, and this investment is while Portugal was is the field operator and partnered by Sonangol, Esso, Statoil, Marathon and Tepa. operator Total involves some a further sign of its optimism for the major foreign By the end of the decade, BP Angola will have invested in excess of $8 billion in its 70km of 16-inch and 45km of success in Angola’s offshore oil contingent with 30 Angolan business, thus ranking the super major as one of the largest foreign investors in 24-inch pipeline. province. participants. the country.

6 SONANGOL UNIVERSO SPRING 2007 7 DEVOLOPMENT

Just ten years ago, Esso Exploration Angola and its partners commenced their 3D survey of Block 15, initially covering as some 4,000sq.km of the Atlantic ocean floor 370km to the Jnorth west of Luanda. easy For tens of millions of years the Congo River had been sweeping sediment and organic matter downstream into the ocean off Africa’s west coast. Then, in 1999, Block 15, located 145km from the river mouth, disclosed to geologists its treas- ures lying up to 2,000m below the sea floor. In that year wildcat wells brought in no less than six discov- eries, four of which –Kissanje, Dikanza, Chocalho and Hungo – were to form the core for the Kizomba A and B developments. The popular Kizomba rhythm has a slow, sensual beat that KThe successful extractionizomba of Block can be heard in almost every corner of Angola, and the individ- 15’s prolific bounty is a continuing ual reservoirs are named after some of the indigenous musical instruments which play it. example of how cutting-edge Block 15 drilling activity reached its peak in 2003, when six technology quickly becomes rigs were working at the same time. By the end of that year accepted practice as it contributes their 17 impressive discoveries, with the potential to recover around 4.5 billion barrels of oil equivalent, were sweet music to to local skills and expertise the ears of Sonangol, Esso and the Block 15 contractor group. A,B,C As block administrator, the late Afonso N’Zoanene put it: “The drilling has been very successful. Seventeen discoveries is very high for an exploration period.” 8 SONANGOL UNIVERSO Both projects are benchmarks that have set In 2006, construction began on the next world-record cycle times with the lowest unit stage of development in Block 15 deep water: “By applying the development costs for projects of their size Kizomba C, which is scheduled to be in opera- lessons learned on and complexity. tion in 2008 to exploit the Mondo and “By applying the lessons learned on Saxi-Batuque fields in the northeast corner of Kizomba A, we Kizomba A, we have been able to achieve an the block. estimated $400 million in cost savings during Kizomba C comprises two separate proj- have been able to the design and construction stages of ects, the first to develop the Mondo field and achieve an Kizomba B,” said Esso Exploration Angola the second to develop the Saxi-Batuque fields. managing director Terry McPhail in January Together the projects will achieve new pro- estimated $400 2005, when the Kizomba B tension leg drilling duction of 200,000 bpd and recover nearly 600 platform (TLP) arrived in Luanda Bay from million barrels of oil through 36 subsea wells. million in cost South Korea. Kizomba C will continue the unparalleled savings during the Kizomba A and B are currently the largest development in Block 15, utilising two exter- developments anywhere offshore West Africa, nal turret-moored FPSOs, a system which design and with a combined production capacity of allows the vessel to weathervane subject to 500,000 bpd. weather and current conditions. The FPSO construction stages of Kizomba B.”

Terry McPhail, Managing Director, Esso Exploration Angola

But as daunting as the task was to find flowing from the eight-well Xikomba develop- these hydrocarbon riches more than 1,500m ment in December 2003. below the Atlantic seabed, the real challenge When one exploration well after another was in bringing this “liquid gold” to the sur- resulted in more discoveries and the resource face in the safest, most cost-effective and estimate for Block 15 reached 3.5 billion bar- environmentally-friendly manner. rels, Sonangol, Esso and partners BP, Eni and To recover the oil and gas from these deep- Statoil started thinking big – Kizomba big. water reservoirs, engineers had to apply some Kizomba A and B targeted the development of of the most advanced development and pro- around 1 billion barrels of recoverable duction technology in the world. resources each, coming from the Hungo and The Xikomba development was the first to Chocalho and Dikanza and Kissanje fields come on stream. Located in the northwest cor- respectively. ON TOW: ner of Block 15, it is a single entity isolated Kizomba A was brought on line in August The Kizomba B TLP moves from the main Kizomba A field. But in just 18 2004 in a record 36 months and, in July 2005, into position on Block 15 months an oil tanker was converted into a Kizomba B beat that record by achieving start- floating production, storage and offloading up in only 31 months. This remarkable ON STATION: vessel (FPSO) capable of processing 90,000 engineering feat was made possible by The Kizomba A FPSO barrels of crude a day (bpd), and oil started ExxonMobil’s “design-one, build-two” concept.

10 SONANGOL UNIVERSO SPRING 2007 11 be fabricated at Angoflex, while flowline termi- the Angolan technicians will be able to use nations will be fabricated at the Petromar yard their expertise anywhere in the country to in Soyo – an indication of the trust placed by benefit its industrial growth. Esso Angola in local contractors to deliver this As with all Esso Angola projects, safety is a equipment to specification and on time. Esso’s primary issue for Kizomba C. In addition to use of Petromar, Sonamet, Angoflex, Sonils the quality that is demanded in every phase of and other Angolan contractors will sustain the the project, the goal is to bring in each phase activities of these companies and support their safely, on budget and on time. continued growth. Kizomba C is the next step in generating Training of local staff is a continuation of peak production capacity in the prolific Block the policy set by Esso, which established the 15. Safety, Angolan content and training, flaw- practice of hiring Angolans for local operations less execution, quality, cost and scheduling long before any production began. As with will be key factors in attaining these goals. Kizomba A and B, Esso Angola will work jointly Altogether the Block 15 development proj- with Sonangol, providing a training ground for ects will involve the investment of more than developing the skills of Angolan engineers, as $16 billion in creating the most technically well as offering promotion opportunities and advanced equipment and workforce to bring professional qualifications. to market in excess of 3 billion barrels of oil Indeed, a substantial component of the from 3.5km (2 miles) beneath the Atlantic. local content and technology transfer initiative But perhaps the more lasting legacy will be FIRST ONSTREAM: is a new scheme established by Esso Angola the passing on of expertise that will take the The Xikomba FPSO for the Kizomba C project, under which, for Angolan energy industry a significant step fur- the next two years, up to 70 local employees ther towards a promising future, with even will have the opportunity to learn new con- more ground-breaking energy projects on the struction/fabrication skills. With these skills, horizon. ❖ Kizomba A TLP

Much of the turrets will be the first to be fabricated in reservoirs to be developed with ten production Angola. wells and seven water or gas injection wells, manifold fabrication The decks of these “mini-refineries” will will be first on line. The wells will be drilled include treatment modules for processing the from three subsea drill centres about 2 to 3km will be undertaken crude as well as utility modules to support from the first FPSO. The FPSOs, following the by Sonamet in FPSO operations. As many as 100 personnel engineering and design components of will be able to live and work comfortably ExxonMobil’s innovative Early Production Lobito, an aboard each vessel. End to end, the massive System programme, will offload directly to FPSOs will stretch about the length of eight ocean-going shuttle tankers. indication of the football fields, and from keel to the topmost Batuque has two oil reservoirs that will be trust placed by deck structures, reach the height of a ten- developed with four producing wells and four storey building. This represents the highest water injection wells drilled from two centres. ExxonMobil in local local fabrication content of any offshore The Saxi field is a single reservoir with five pro- Angolan project to date, including fabrication duction and six injection wells drilled from expertise, and a of the complex turret systems of the FPSOs. two drill centres some 4 to 6km from the sec- demonstration of The two FPSOs will be owned by the ond FPSO. SBM/Sonangol joint venture company The drill centres will be connected to the its commitment to Sonasing and operated by OPS, another FPSOs by flowlines and by control umbilicals, Sonangol/SBM joint venture, under lease to which will also provide chemicals to the sub- increased Angolan EssoAngola as Block 15 operator. Hull storage sea manifolds and trees. The production drill content capacity is 1.4 million barrels of stabilised oil. centres will be tied back to the FPSOs with The international team selected to execute round-trip pigable production flowlines to the Kizomba C development project is apply- facilitate internal inspection and maintenance. ing the experience of two previous Kizomba Local content was a priority in the plan-

developments with the goal of surpassing the ning of the Kizomba C project. Much of the PHOTO: MICHAEL KOTLEN performance of those earlier developments. manifold fabrication will be undertaken by The Mondo field, consisting of three oil Sonamet in Lobito, where umbilicals will also

12 SONANGOL UNIVERSO EXPLORATION Elephant

More oil and gas is expected to be found in Africa in the next few years than Manywhere else in the world, and Angola Hunt is set to play a crucial role. With huge off- shore fields such as Girassol, Dalia and With authoritative Kizomba already developed, the hunt is on for more, equally important fields. forecasts predicting that Angola’s longstanding willingness, Africa will contribute 30 through Sonangol, to support and work with foreign oil groups has smoothed the per cent of global path for oil exploration companies to hydrocarbon supply by discover giant, world-class fields. Twenty years ago, 15 oil fields around 2010, attention is the world had the capacity to produce increasingly focusing on more that 1 million barrels of oil per day. Today, only four fields can produce that Angola’s offshore and much – Saudi Arabia’s Ghawar field; onshore oil provinces Kirkuk (Iraq); Burgan Greater (Kuwait) and Mexico’s Cantarell. A “giant” oil field is defined as one containing proven reserves exceeding 500 million barrels. A giant gas field con- tains proven reserves of greater than 3 trillion cubic feet. Reserves refer to the ultimate recov- erable resource and include the amount produced to date, and some fields are giants only when viewed on a barrels-of- oil-equivalent basis. So what about West Africa, and Angola, an increasingly important hydro- carbons area with up to ten giant deepwater fields registered as discov- ered? Several deepwater fields in Angola have production targets of 200,000 bar- rels per day (bpd) or slightly higher, but no giants – yet. ANTHONY FORONDA The largest fields discovered over the past decade are found in places such as

SPRING 2007 15 Technology for economically extracting gas Equatorial Guinea’s offshore sector overlies the “While there are from remote locations is increasingly being Rio Muni Basin. This basin borders the Kribi- encouraging signs employed on African projects, and while large- Campo (Douala) Basin of Cameroon to the scale development of remote, offshore gas up north (which hosts the Sanaga Sud-Kribi oil that many new and down the coast of West Africa is still some and gas fields), with the North Gabon Basin to way off, it is an exciting prospect. the south that contains many oil and gas dis- oilfields are still Nevertheless, IHS Energy expects African coveries. The excellent potential of the Rio being found, the oil production, especially along the Atlantic Muni Basin has been highlighted by the dis- coast, to attract “huge exploration invest- covery of commercial oil at Ceiba field, now days of giant fields ment”, contributing more than 30 per cent of operated by Hess. the growth of world liquid hydrocarbon pro- Industry attention is now extending to the which maintained duction by 2010. ultra-deepwater Gulf of Guinea around the huge production Several promising looking basins are being sprinkling of islands in the region including explored in and around Angola, while poten- the Equatorial Guinea island of Annobon. Here rates for decades tial oil-bearing basins lying offshore Gabon, it is thought that the extensive offshore eco- which have a comparable geological back- nomic zone could contain a thick sedimentary seem to be at an ground to basins discovered in oil-rich section loaded with petroleum potential, as end.” offshore northern Brazil, thousands of miles indicated by oil seeps on the neighbouring away across the Atlantic Ocean, are being volcanic islands of São Tomé and Principe. closely scrutinised. Ron Mobed, president and chief operating Matthew Simmons, In fact, Africa’s proven oil reserves more officer at IHS Energy, says: “The number and Houston, Texas international than doubled between 1980 and 2005 to 114.3 size of hydrocarbon discoveries continued to billion barrels, according to the BP Statistical oil and gas banker decline during 2004-2005 and many areas of Handbook – a growth rate comparable to the the world became less accessible due to politi- Middle East and far outpacing a worldwide cal constraints. Oil and gas companies are increase of 84 per cent during the same period. increasingly seeking access to larger oil

PHOTO: PMP GLOBAL Further south, offshore Namibia holds reserves in Africa to meet the growing global huge promise in under-explored frontier demand.” basins. South of the geologically important He adds: “Africa’s major oil and gas produc- the Gulf of Mexico, Iran, Brazil and Algeria. Energy Research Associates see 20 or more Walvis Ridge, the Walvis, Lüderitz and Orange GIANT: ing provinces will likely continue to attract Although more than 35 giant oil fields have major new fields coming on line each year basins share a broadly similar history in their huge exploration investments and yield larger Total’s Dalia FPSO been discovered during the period, none will through 2010. geological background. The vast Kudu gas field than average discoveries. Exploration will have the capability of producing above 1 mil- They estimate that altogether those fields in the Orange Basin remains the only discov- expand from these successful plays into adja- lion bpd. Indeed, none thus far is expected to could boost worldwide production capacity by ery to date, but more 2D seismic studies are cent countries and provinces, especially on the exceed 250,000 bpd. 15 per cent, from 87.9 million bpd to 101.5 being planned to help better understand the Finding an oil field containing more than million bpd by the end of the decade. area’s hydrocarbon-bearing potential. Atlantic continental margin, where access to 100 million barrels of reserves – an “elephant” Chevron expects its “big five” oilfields in The Orange Basin extends into South export markets is key.” in oil industry jargon – can be the making of West Africa, Australia, the Gulf of Mexico and African territory and the government, through IHS Energy calculates that Africa, which an oil company, and so are actively sought. Kazakhstan to generate an extra 800,000 bpd its upstream oil and gas ministry known as the already contributes 12 per cent of global liquid Commenting on such huge oil fields, by 2009 – a third of its current production. Petroleum Agency SA, is keen to build on exist- hydrocarbon production, will supply 30 per Matthew Simmons, the Houston, Texas-based “We’ve got that pretty well mapped out,” says ing knowledge of the basin’s promise. cent of the world’s growth by 2010. Between international oil and gas banker, says: “While Chevron vice-chairman Peter J Robertson. Interest is also being aroused by work 2000 and 2004, lean years for oil discovery there are encouraging signs that many new oil- “But projects are more complex now. They going on in central Africa where the Niger- worldwide, Africa contributed one in every fields are still being found, it is also worth take a little longer.” Chad basins offer huge hydrocarbon potential, four barrels of oil discovered outside the noting that virtually all new oilfield projects With prevailing high oil prices, “the explo- with the Greater Niger Delta as the current United States and Canada and 12 per cent of involve billions of dollars in capital expendi- ration climate is better than at any time in 20 focus of special attention. The Niger Delta is natural gas discovered. ture. They also tend to take upwards of five to years”, says Andrew Hayman, an analyst with one of the world’s largest petroleum provinces Oilmen and African leaders are all hopeful seven years to develop. The days of giant fields IHS Energy, the influential and highly respected with estimated proven oil reserves of 48 billion that the current elephant hunt will yield a which maintained huge production rates for global oil and gas information and software barrels – offering the tantalising prospect that huge oilfield – and following the dramatic decades seem to be at an end.” consultancy. Speaking at a London conference, elephant-sized fields are still waiting to be interest shown in Angola’s licensing round in But thanks to a combination of higher Hayman said several of the younger, more discovered. spring 2006, many eyes are focusing on the prices, increased exploration and production adventurous companies quoted on the junior In Equatorial Guinea, the offshore Rio country’s offshore and onshore oil provinces. spending, and improved technology, oil sup- London stock exchange, the Alternative Muni Basin is being closely looked at by geolo- Meantime, all concerned are having to take an plies are poised to grow much faster than they Investment Market (AIM), see offshore Africa as gists working for the independent US-based optimistic, but long-term look at the work of have in recent years. Analysts from Cambridge offering great opportunities, particularly for gas. oil company Hess Corp. The southern part of the geologists. ❖

16 SONANGOL UNIVERSO SPRING 2007 17 TRANSPORTATION Flying With the continuing growth of Angola’s oil and gas exploration and production High activities, the industry’s favourite airline The recent past has shown that though it can be an is doing well, exciting roller-coaster ride, running an airline is one of but also has its the more uncertain ways to make a healthy return on Tinvestment. Everything affects the business from the eyes on future weather and price of oil, to staff relations and the opportunities political climate – to say nothing of long-range deci- sions about purchasing billion-dollar equipment. Fortunately, António dos Santos Domingos, the president of Sonair, has few of these worries. For Sonair, thanks to its defined market strategy and clear goals for the future, these problems hardly exist. As an airline, it is the kind of neat operation that any entre- preneur would love to own. “We have sought to build simple and flexible man- agement structures, in order to be able to respond rapidly to changing conditions,” he says. “When nec- essary, we want to be in a position to raise capital so that we can respond to new opportunities.” Mr Domingos, who moved into the left hand seat some eight years ago, is an economist by training and intensely proud of his organisation. He enjoys a close professional relationship with his youthful team, as evidenced by the friendly acknowledgements whenev- er he passes colleagues in the airline’s modern headquarters at Luanda’s international airport. Sonair, as its name implies, is a subsidiary of Sonangol and was formed in 1979, just over 27 years ago, initially to undertake the specialist helicopter transport of personnel and materials to Angola’s off- shore oil platforms. In the climate of internal disruption in the country resulting from the hostilities at that time, heavy

SPRING 2007 19 PMP GLOBAL “At this point in time, we need to maximise us in a strong position to service the demands our share of the markets we are already in,” he of this sector.” says. “This means a strong focus on marketing Nevertheless, with a commitment to and publicity – and creating products and serv- growth, Mr Domingos and his team are deter- ices that appertain to our potential customers.” mined to see Sonair’s slogan Wings of In his view this means expansion wherever Tranquillity flying across an increasing area of there is an oil-related need for air transport, the world’s sky. not merely opportunist intervention at the “To propel our continuing success, the fun- sales counter. damental points on which we must focus are One such initiative is the highly successful professionalism, teamwork and the strategic Houston Express. In May 2000, Sonair joined vision,” he says. To these commitments he with Atlanta-based World Airways to inaugu- could add a motivation which clearly animates rate a unique non-stop service to America his own pleasure coming to work every day. ❖ from Luanda to Houston to serve the potential of oil people who previously had to travel via South Africa or Europe. Although seats are available only to mem- bers of the US-Angola Chamber of Commerce, Flexible Fleet the service quickly became popular and now

PHOTOS: PMP GLOBAL flies three times a week. The 16-hour flight is The Sonair fleet is designed to meet the airline’s operated with special long-range McDonnell varied requirement to service the needs of its responsibility was placed on the fledgling air- Pumas for November delivery, and two “At this point in Douglas MD-11s with an 81 per cent business- clients in Angola’s oil sector, both on and offshore line, which soon found itself operating on a Dauphin N3s, but such is the demand world- class and first-class configuration. much broader scale carrying cargo and mail – wide for these types that we have to take our Aircraft type Seating Number time, we need to Cabin crews are made up of a mixture as well as passengers – both domestically, place in the queue.” By 2009 he hopes to have World Airways and Sonair staff, which provides Helicopters maximise our share regionally and internationally. 13 more helicopters to meet the anticipated an additional bonus of enabling Sonair Super-Puma 332 L2 19 5 Formerly a member of the high-level cadre requirements of the airline’s offshore clients. of the markets we employees to gain long-haul experience. Dauphin N3 12 8 responsible for negotiating contracts with the While the helicopter division covers the off- Sonair is keen to introduce more interna- Sikorsky S76 A++ 12 4 oil majors, Mr Domingos sees delivering the shore requirements, Sonair’s fixed-wing are already in, tional routes to its network where it can see a Sikorsky S76 C+ 12 5 service that clients require as the key to success. operations now include regular schedules to demand from oil-industry clients – hence the which means a “When Sonair was established, it enjoyed a Benguela, Cabinda, Catumbela, Huambo, Fixed-wing joint venture Sonegesa (Sonair–Equatorial monopoly of all air transportation, especially Lubango, Ondiva and Soyo. In this environ- Beechcraft B350 8 2 strong focus on Guinea) and Heli Malongo, a partnership the lucrative offshore work,” he says. “But the ment, the airline competes directly with other Beechcraft B1900 D 18 4 between Sonair and Sumora Holding SA, based time is coming when there will be competition local airlines. Beechcraft B1900 D 12 1 marketing and in Cabinda. from outside operators, and we must be pre- While there are also clear opportunities to Boeing 727-123 Tanker 1 Another area where Mr Domingos sees publicity.” pared and ready to compete.” grow the market to regional destinations in Boeing 727-129C Tanker 1 Sonair’s expertise offering opportunities is in The operational structure of the airline is competition with other operators, Mr Boeing 727-129C 128 2 the specialist business sector, including VIP divided into rotary (helicopters) and fixed- Domingos does not see this as a path along Fokker-50 M.500 45 2 António dos Santos and executive charter. “With the commercial wing, comprising a total of some 49 aircraft. which Sonair’s future lies. Fokker-27 M.500 42 1 Domingos, President, Sonair and social structure of Angola in a mode of Against the rapidly changing background of Falcon F900 EX 11 1 rapid expansion, this is a positive option – but client needs, the trick is to maintain a balanced Falcon F900 EX 10 1 an as-yet relatively unexploited market,” he range of equipment that is flexible enough to Falcon F900 Easy 14 1 says. “Sonair’s quality-driven approach will put cope with every challenge – from the require- Twin Otter DHC-6-300 19 9 ments of a new offshore drilling campaign to an exclusive VIP charter contract – and at the same time to forecast future demand. The helicopter fleet is made up of Super- Puma 332 L2s, Dauphin N3s and Sikorsky S76 As and Cs, and the fixed-wing fleet includes Beechcraft B350 and B1900s, Boeing 727s, Fokkers, Falcons and Twin Otters. PEOPLEPOWER: “This just about covers our requirements Sonair’s motivated staff for the present, but we have a substantial pro- are trained to a high gramme of purchases for 2007,” says Mr standard Domingos. “The problem in this regard is availability. We have ordered three Super-

20 SONANGOL UNIVERSO SPRING 2007 21 OFFSHORE SERVICE

The limpid waters of Luanda’s har- These fast vessels are the practical French marine bour slide beneath the keel of the sleek solution to transporting large numbers Surfer crew-transfer vessel as it picks its of personnel to Angola’s offshore instal- services group tway between the scattered vessels lations, and two other such services also Bourbon is one anchored around the entrance. Minutes operate out of Luanda – Sonatide and half of the french ago, it had left the Sonasurf Angola ter- Seabulk Offshore. successful minal within the Sonils facility and, The note of the powerful turbines once clear of the Ilha where early morn- deepens as we surge forward to our Sonasurf ing anglers were already casting their cruising speed of 30 knots. Today there operation with lines, Captain Jean Christophe Le Vezeil is little wind, just the long, lazy swell sets course for Block 17, some 125 nau- over which our wake lingers into the sea Sonangol. tical miles to the north west. mist astern. In little more than four hours Universo took a connection The passengers, mostly engineers the Surfer is scheduled to arrive alongside trip to Block 17 and technicians returning to duty on the the mighty the mighty Girassol FPSO, Girassol floating, production and stor- giant of Angola, soon to be overtaken by to see it in action age vessel (FPSO) after home leave, will the even bigger Greater Plutónio facility. soon be starting their 24-hour, seven- Although the Surfers provide the day shift pattern again. vital link between the shore and the oil- “Most crew transfers are made by fields, this is only a small part of Surfer,” says Captain Vezeil. Sonasurf’s role in Angola’s offshore con- “Helicopters could not cope with stituency. Established in 1999 as a joint the volume, and they are more venture between Sonangol and costly. We can carry up to 90 Bourbon, the leading French offshore people, and on today’s return services provider, the company per- trip we are almost full.” forms the whole range of exploration and production support tasks. In addition to the Surfers, the 44- strong Sonasurf fleet includes MPSVs, AHTs, FSIVs, PSVs and offshore terminal tugs among other specialist vessels. PHOTO:PMP GLOBAL

22 SONANGOL UNIVERSO SPRING 2007 23 “At present, the ratio of Angolans to expats Sonasurf’s PSVs, gives a flavour of the life on is 375:170,” says Verrière. “We regard this as Block 17 – a wide-flung community that never Specialist good, but we’re always looking out to boost the sleeps, and where exploration and production numbers.” activities go on round the clock. After three hours, with the flying fish still At 2am, on his darkened bridge high above Service skipping ahead of the Surfer’s bows, the feeling the working deck, Captain Antonio Madinov of isolation from land is palpable. The Satnav delicately manipulates the controls to keep the Sonasurf deploys gives our position as 8° 28’10” south, 12° 51’ PSV Kiesse in position close to the hull of Pride five types of 08” east, when suddenly out of the haze Angola, heaving gently in the swell as its cranes appears the assortment of some 20 or more swing bulky containers from its floodlit deck. specialist vessel vessels working the Girassol and Dalia fields – The job done, Captain Madinov, from offshore Angola the drillships Pride Africa and Pride Angola Croatia, moves his vessel away to stand off with their attendant PSVs, an Acergy survey PHOTOS: PMP GLOBAL until required again. “One thing’s for sure,” he Multi-purpose Supply Vessel: vessel, a Saipem pipelayer and, to the right, the remarks. “This is a lot more comfortable than MPSVs are dedicated to subsea The main job of the support vessel is the from Soyo at the mouth of the Congo River as solid block of the newly-operational Dalia the North Sea, where I was working for three work. They offer functions such conveyance of every small and large item, fuel well as the main facility at Sonils, Luanda. FPSO. On the horizon, there is no mistaking STANDING BY: years out of Great Yarmouth, England.” as dynamic positioning, fire- and food supplies as well as crew, needed to Since the establishment of the joint ven- our destination, the massive Girassol facility. Sonasurf’s PSVs Borgstein and His warm bunk may beckon, but he and fighting, deepwater handling support drillships, survey vessels, pipeline lay- ture, the company has embarked on Bourbon’s Scurrying busily between all of these are Jade against the backdrop of first mate Diego Torres will be on duty until the and helicopter facilities, and Total’s mighty Girassol FPSO ers and the FPSOs – a task requiring intricate ambitious programme of investment, which tugs and the smaller Surfers employed in com- rising sun picks out the silhouette of the stubby have a large capacity for equip- logistical backup. will amount to $1.8 billion from 2007 to 2010, munication between this fleet, dispersed over ment and personnel. derrick of their charge, with another three Professionalism, safety and environmental to keep ahead of the voracious demands of the an area of some 30km. weeks to go before they return to Luanda. awareness are prime requirements in this offshore operators. In no time our voyage is coming to an end. Platform Supply Vessel: PSVs totally contrived world. “In practical terms, an In fact, the company enjoys a substantial As the engines die, our Surfer noses towards The unruffled calm as these vessels go are the workhorses of the off- FPSO is a floating refinery, and coping with a advantage by virtue of its association with the V-shaped docking point on the service about their business, in the control of hand- shore field. They have a large problem or emergency presents infinitely more Bourbon. “Even if we do not have a vessel module alongside the FPSO. As our returnees picked professionals, may be a long way from deck surface for handling a vari- ety of items, especially oversized complex issues than dealing with the same available, we are rarely caught short,” says gen- disembark, those for the journey back to fuelling up at the local filling station, riding the loads. They are fitted with tanks incident on land,” explains Christian Reynaud, eral manager Eric Verrière. “We have access to Luanda prepare to board. They will be on land intercontinental jet stream or relaxing in the for storing specialist liquids such site manager of Girassol. a hugely diversified fleet of new-generation by 6pm, and on their way home for a break comfort of a warm home, but the expertise and as drilling mud, fuel and cement. So, for Sonasurf, vigilance, risk assessment vessels through our mother company and vari- with loved-ones. For the Surfer crew, there will the technology which raises crude from the and careful procedures underpin every minute ous partners elsewhere in the world.” be a few hours rest before tomorrow’s shuttle. earth’s crust thousands of metres beneath the Anchor Handling Tug Supply of the day at sea. In Angola, Sonasurf is responsible for the “It’s the routine that repeats every day ocean, is a vivid illustration of the price of oil. Vessels: AHTSs are equipped With a client list that includes all the oil management of health and safety and co-ordi- except for Saturday,” says engineer Jean Robert “There’s huge investment afloat out there,” with powerful engines and majors and companies such as the ROV spe- nation and its commitment to local content – Brun. “Not that it’s time off. Saturday is says Eric Verrière, “but what we do is keep the winches used to install and cialists Oceaneering, Sonasurf holds the lion’s the recruitment and training of Angolan staff reserved for maintenance.” show on the road. We are the vital link. If we maintain oil platforms, the share of support operations offshore Angola – and sourcing of supplies. Indeed, to spend 24-hours on board one of hiccup, the whole field has a cough.” ❖ retrieval of anchors and deploy- ment of production equipment.

Fast Support and Intervention From its headquarters in Paris, Bourbon’s mar- vessels and 100 more on order, managed million tonnes of varied dry cargo, such as coal, Professionalism, Vessels: FSIVs are high-speed ket strategy is based on the development of a through eight subsidiaries by 3,000 staff. As one minerals, cement, grain etc a year. Three of the craft, able to carry specialist responsibility and culture of excellence and the formation of local of the leaders in the field, the company has a owned fleet are in the 55,000dwt class. equipment for use in emergen- enthusiasm partnerships, such as Sonasurf. The company presence in 20 countries worldwide, and a fea- In 2005, approximately 45 per cent of the cies. They also have significant operates a worldwide fleet of specialist vessels ture of the fleet is its modernity. company’s turnover came from offshore services, passenger capacity. and has achieved a strong presence, not only in The second area of Bourbon’s expertise lies in 19 per cent from towage and salvage and 30 per Terminal Tugs: (TTs) Bourbon The Sucreries de Bourbon company was the waters offshore Africa’s west coast and the towage and salvage, which employs the talents cent from bulk transportation. In the same year, formed in 1948, but the global marine services North Sea, but also on its home-territory, France. of more than 1,100 staff, highly experienced in Offshore operates a fleet of ter- Bourbon invested some 518 million in newbuilds provider familiar to its host of clients in Europe, Another feature of Bourbon’s corporate style this often hazardous work. With a fleet of 67 minal tugs employed in export and upgrades. Some 60 per cent of its offshore Asia, Africa and the Americas did not take shape is to deploy modern vessels for each mission. tugs and another 16 on order, it undertakes an tanker lifting and offshore tow- work was carried out in the Africa region. until the beginning of the new century in 2001. Investments of $1.8 billion are planned for average of 45,000 operations a year, working ing operations. These figures testify to the success of this “Bourbon today is the result of a diversified, 2007–2010, while the average age of the off- from ports in France, the Indian Ocean and the Passenger vessels: Bourbon company and are based on professionalism, a enterprising group which has decided to focus on shore fleet is no more than seven years. With African coast through subsidiaries Les Abeilles Offshore runs two types of pas- commitment to quality, safety and environmental the marine services business,” says its president some 4,300 employees and a managed fleet of and Les Abeilles International. senger vessel: the larger HSC and CEO Jacques de Chateauvieux. “Our core 280 vessels, Bourbon is now the largest recruiter Setaf Saget constitutes the third facet of awareness. As Jacques de Chateauvieux points craft provide shore-to-site trans- business consists of marine services for the off- of French merchant marine officers. Bourbon’s maritime service. Its fleet of some 60 out: “It is a continuing goal that sets Bourbon port, while the smaller, Surfers shore oil industry, harbour towage and coastal The biggest of Bourbon’s three divisions is its bulk carriers, six of which it owns, and varying in apart. Our enthusiasm is a strong motivation that handle in-field movements. protection and dry bulk shipping.” offshore oil and gas marine services, with 175 size from 40,000 to 48,000dwt, carry some 14 enables us all to fulfil our potential.”

24 SONANGOL UNIVERSO SPRING 2007 25 CONFERENCE

As the foremost country in the exploration, at the Talatona Centre, which opened in spring options, from individual sessions to receptions development and production of southern Africa’s 2006, having been built at a cost of $50 million and merchandise items.” Technical deepwater energy, Angola is proud to welcome by Sonangol as a means to promote Angola’s Every effort will be made to facilitate those the global oil and gas industry to the 2nd industrial, social and cultural development. wishing to come to Luanda for the event, Programme ARegional Deepwater Offshore West Africa Since the announcement of the event, including accommodation and travel – and The official opening of the Exploration and Production Conference & there has been considerable interest, both even the chance to see a little of life outside Exhibition. locally and internationally. In addition to the 2nd Regional Deepwater the capital. Offshore West Africa “It is clear that Angola is leading Africa in the technical programme, which will feature some As Mateus de Brito puts it: “We welcome Exploration and Production pace of discoveries, their development and tran- of the global industry’s leading figures, the participation, whether as speaker, attendee, Conference & Exhibition sition into production,” says Mateus Morais de exhibition will provide a unique occasion for exhibitor or student.” And Sonangol EP chair- will take place at 3pm on Brito, board administrator at Sonangol, who is manufacturers and service providers to display man Manuel Vicente is unequivocal in his October 2, followed by a general chair of the conference. “We are therefore their products and services in the region. reception for delegates. pleased to provide a platform for the industry to “We have already attracted several offers welcome: “We are proud to demonstrate On October 3, the manage- share ideas and for service providers to showcase both to present papers and for sponsorships,” Angola’s deepwater credentials, and hope that ment session will be followed their latest equipment and techniques.” says Gerard Jan Kreeft, managing director of our visitors will also take this opportunity to by two parallel sessions in the Delegates from all over the world will gather EnergyWise, which is operating the whole see something of the strides currently being afternoon, together with poster at the new Talatona Convention Centre just out- made in our country,” he says. ❖ event. “But there is still a range of sponsorship presentations. On the following side Luanda on October 3 to hear presentations two days there will be two par- from industry experts during the three-day event. allel sessions and poster Subjects will range from deepwater develop- presentations each morning ments and strategies for West Africa and beyond, welcome to Talatona and afternoon. Social events are to deepwater case studies, production solutions scheduled each evening. and drilling and completion developments. The deepwater exploration, development and pro- The event is sponsored by many of the big duction successes in the Angola Lower Congo Basin are Subjects to be covered players in Angola’s offshore provinces, who will leading the industry in West Africa. Indeed, during the 1. Management session: Deep- form an international steering committee respon- first NAPE and AAPG Regional Deepwater Meeting in water developments and sible for setting its scope and direction, Abuja in November 2004, it was clear that Angola is foremost in Africa in the pace of discoveries, their devel- strategies for West Africa nominating speakers and the session co-chairs, as and beyond well as hosting their own groups of delegates. opment and transition into production. 2. Global case studies of deep- The first regional deepwater meeting that In 2007, Angola opens its doors to the global oil and gas industry to showcase successes in deepwater water exploration took place in Ajuba, Nigeria, in 2004 clearly development or production Angola as well as other developments in the region. To showed the initiative that was developing along – lessons learned the West African seaboard, and this second event this end Sonangol and Angola’s Ministry of Petroleum, with the co-operation of the Angolan oil and gas indus- 3. SPE Angola session: Chal- will focus on the activities offshore Angola, lenges, deepwater facilities try, have approved the creation of a conference committee to manage and plan the 2nd Regional Nigeria, Côte d’ Iviore, Cameroon, Equatorial and production Sharing Deepwater Offshore West Africa Exploration and Production Conference & Exhibition, scheduled Guinea, São Tomé and Príncipe, Gabon, Congo, for October 3-6, 2007 at the Talatona Conference Centre in Luanda. 4. SEG session: Deepwater Democratic Republic of Congo, Namibia and seismic and electro- The conference will be technically and financially supported by Sonangol and the major South Africa. magnetic acquisition and operators in Angola, as well as the service providers and contractors. It is endorsed by the AAPG Running parallel with the conference will be interpretation technologies and NAPE, and the Ground Operator is EnergyWise. an exhibition featuring booths and poster pre- 5. Deepwater clastic and car- Deepwater sentations which will continue for an extra day The convention committee is putting together an exciting conference and exhibition pro- bonate reservoirs in West following the end of the technical programme – gramme and we welcome your participation, either as speaker, attendee, exhibitor or student. Africa and beyond and there will be many smaller presentations 6. Angola deepwater case Please join us! throughout the conference area. studies Mateus Morais de Brito The organising hierarchy for the event is a 7. AAPG session: Heavy oil in Expertise veritable roll-call of the big names in Angola’s General Chair of the Conference deep waters industry, including Desidério Costa, Minister of 8. New advances in deepwater As Angola’s hydrocarbons production Petroleum; Manuel Vicente, President and CEO Sponsors drilling and completion Sonangol EP; Amadeu Azevedo, National technology continues to grow, a major conference at Petroleum Director; Syanga Abillo, Executive Vice 9. improving oil recovery in –president, Sonangol; Gaspar Martins, Chairman deepwater fields Luanda’s state-of-the-art convention of Sonangol P&P, and Nahun Schneidermann, 10. HSE and local content centre will play host to leaders of the Chevron and contact with the AAPG and NAPE, and the managing directors of Angola’s leading oil A poster session will run industry operating companies. global oil and gas industry parallel to the oral programme The conference will be the biggest event so far

26 SONANGOL UNIVERSO SPRING 2007 27 PMP GLOBAL

This would not be Africa if overland travel was not still if overland travel not be Africa This would this means the opportunity industry, For commerce and liv- discovering more choices to improve City dwellers are something of an adventure, but every month it becomes eas- but every month of an adventure, something thanks to the vast hinterland, out into Angola’s ier to move and railways. projects in hand to rebuild roads far-reaching initiatives. For local people, it offers to exploit business and share communities to interact greater contact between dip into there is the chance to the visitor, resources and, for and beautiful aspects of the country. the many surprising sophisticated ing and lifestyle, thanks to increasingly new places to get away banking and financial services – and for a spot of personal pampering.

T

INSIDE ANGOLA GOING HOME: Zungueiras leave the Zanga resort as the Luanda skyline is caught by the evening sun REGIONAL FOCUS Green Credentials

Even in Angola’s dry season, the province of Kwanza Norte radiates Once at the centre verdant fertility. In the rainy season, the regular tropical drenchings transform the rainforest into an exuberant emerald jungle. of production of ETravelling from Luanda to Ndalatando, the shortest route leads Angola’s coffee through a spectacular primary rainforest where, overhead, creepers industry, Kwanza and ferns dangle from tall trees. At intervals small settlements of grass homes slide by the windows of our car. In the rainy season Norte is again there are frequent streams and washes to be crossed, swollen by the preparing to play regular downpours. Often there is no sun, but a mist into which the an important role forest and distant hills seem to retreat. While many good roads connect the main population centres, in the country’s the ochre dust tracks that twist through the jungle become red rivers agricultural sector of mud. Even so, they are vital arteries along which lurches an incredible variety of transportation from cumbersome articulated trailers to heavily-laden private vehicles that almost disappear into potholes as big as ponds. The region is crossed by the hydrographical basins of Bengo, Lucala and Kwanza, providing enormous hydroelectrical potential. The Capanda Dam in Malange province is already under construc- tion and will be one of the largest in Western Africa. In fact, Kwanza Norte holds special significance for Angola as a focus of communications for the northern half of the country, through which the main routes to Malange, the Lundas, Kwanza Sul, Huambo, Bie and Uige all pass. Covering some 24,000sq.km, this is one of Angola’s smaller provinces. In former times it was one of Angola’s important agricultural regions and, more recently, became the powerbase of the ruling MPLA. “While its political clout provides the province with an influential position, it is Kwanza Norte’s economic achievements and infrastruc- ture improvements that really make the difference,” says Manuel Pedro Pacavira, the provincial governor. The province is famous for flowers and gardens, reflecting the wide abundance of sub-tropical flora that grow so easily in this cli- mate. Its capital Ndalatando was referred to as Cidade Jardim (the Garden City) during the colonial times and was one of a handful of cities in Angola that produced ornamental flowers for national and PMP GLOBAL

SPRING 2007 31 export markets. The garden that gave Kwanza Norte is mostly known for its cof- Ndalatando this sobriquet was the only source fee – notably the much sought-after Robusta of the famous “Porcelain Rose”. variety – which was grown on vast plantations In spite of their sometimes dilapidated across the province. appearance, the city is graced by many elegant “Angola was once ranked third in the world buildings, which thanks to their essentially as a coffee producer, with an output of around solid construction could be restored. More evi- 228,000 tonnes at its peak,” notes governor dence of a stately past can just be discerned in Pacavira. “This was thanks to its highly devel- the once famous botanical gardens now oped industry – and Kwanza Norte was the almost completely swallowed by the jungle, country’s top producer.” but still revealing the occasional flash of their In 2004, Angola’s languishing coffee indus- former style in the shape of a fine tree or shrub try received a boost in the shape of an $8.5 standing out in the bush. million investment to rehabilitate production Something of the tranquillity of the seclud- in the north of the province under the aus- ed valley must have caught the mood of pices of the International Coffee Organisation. Angola’s first president, Agostinho Neto, who “Kwanza Norte may be known for its coffee decided to build a retreat here to escape the industry,” says the governor, “but from an eco- pressures of state. nomic point of view it has developed many Like many parts of Angola, the province other agricultural resources too. We are impor- tant producers of rice, cereals, potatoes, bananas, pineapples and citrus fruits.” Indeed, almost every tropical cash crop “While its political clout provides the province with grows well in this fertile soil, including palms an influential position, it is Kwanza Norte’s economic and sunflowers for their oil, plus cotton, sugar cane, beans and cassava. This steady growth of achievements and infrastructure improvements that the agricultural sector promises a future in which the province will produce surpluses for really make the difference.” the capital and neighbouring areas. “We also have dense forests and a devel- Manuel Pedro Pacavira, Governor, Kwanza Norte province. oped timber industry,” governor Pacavira says proudly. “Currently Kwanza Norte is the main PHOTOS: PMP GLOBAL

supplier of timber to Luanda. Iron, man- ganese and copper are also part of our output.” Supply lines are helped by the fact that while other provinces are struggling to seems to exist on two levels. The country peo- upgrade their transport infrastructure, (left page top to bottom) ple live in simple villages, subsisting on staple Kwanza Norte boasts more than 300km of DONDO: foods such as manioc and other vegetables, asphalt roads as well as an important rail Gateway to Malange supplemented by game and fruit from the for- link between its four important cities of province est, while the cities and farms are home to Ndalatanda, Zanza do Itombe, Lucala and NDALATANDO: more sophisticated folk who are committed to Dondo to Luanda and Malange. President Agostinho Neto’s former retreat rebuilding the agricultural and industrial At the southern border of the province, CAMABATELA: infrastructure. Dondo has always been an important centre Architectural echoes Gulungo Alto, to the north of Ndalatando, on the highway from Luanda to Malange. of the past is a municipality blessed with leafy hills and Set at the foothills of the Serra do Bongo, the freshwater springs. Here there is an ornamen- town was one of the gateways to the central (this page top to bottom) tal lake where local people have traditionally highlands and, in the “bad old days,”– a come to eat fresh oranges and swim on thriving hub for the Portuguese slavers and LUSH: Sunday afternoons. The town was a popular a trading post. Rainforest highway settlement among the Portuguese, who built The nearby Fort Kambambe was a STRIKING: many beautiful colonial homes, as well as fac- strategic garrison and staging point for the Camabatela’s church of many colours tories to produce soap and tomato paste. interior, while another connection with the

32 SONANGOL UNIVERSO SPRING 2007 33 ment from Germany,” says Mateus Malumona, scenery changes dramatically as it climbs the managing director. “Work to be undertak- steadily into serene grass-covered hills. The air is en also includes the installation of a new cool, having left the equatorial humidity of the bottling line, upgrading existing equipment rainforest below – a landscape totally unex- and putting in new computerised production pected to foreign eyes, more reminiscent of systems.” When the improved plant is up and more temperate latitudes. running it will be capable of delivering up to There are few signs of human habitation or 45.5 million litres of its popular light lager per even animals such as cattle or sheep, which month. This will undoubtedly bring much would surely be at home in these high pastures, good cheer to Angola’s bars – as well as to the although there are measures in place to exploit 30 staff who will be required to fill new jobs at this grassland of rolling hills and valleys. the brewery. This area saw much military confrontation, The road east of the capital sweeps across a as evidenced by occasional rusting tanks or broad plain, which was once a rich agricultural gun carriages, dipped off-road at crazy angles region where maize, coffee and cotton thrived. where they were ambushed, and now being At Lucala the road turns towards to Camabatela slowly swallowed by rampant vegetation. in the very north of the province. Again the The small town of Camabatela was once a centre of the coffee industry, but with the com- Country Life PHOTOS: PMP GLOBAL ing of independence in 1975, many of the SKILLED: A hunting party on its darker past is the church of Nossa Senhora do largely Portuguese population simply turned Powerbase way to trap a plump antelope or Rosario, where local slaves, either working in the key in their doors and departed their other small game in the forest to factories or awaiting transportation to the attractive colonial properties. These have most- One of Angola’s prime provide a tasty addition to the plantations in the Americas, were baptised. ly remained empty ever since. energy sources is the chain of daily diet of manioc. This activity Both are classified as national monuments, “Even though there was no one to stop hydroelectric plants located too is subject to government but are now largely in ruins. them, the local people did not move in,” along the Kwanza River as it restriction in a drive to preserve In present happier times, undoubtedly the explains the manager of the Pif-Pif, the only plunges almost 3,000m from the dwindling forest wildlife, most striking structure is the Kambambe Dam hotel. “This is partly due to superstition, partly the highlands of the interior depleted during the civil war. to the Atlantic Ocean. – the final piece of the 200km Kwanza River because they thought the owners might return.” hydroelectric scheme, which supplies most of But to date they have not and, over the The Kambambe Dam is CASH CROP: Burning charcoal to the final barrier before the the power for Luanda and the burgeoning years, the buildings have been picked clean of industrial sector of Dondo. The Kwanza River their furniture, windows and doors – anything sell to traders from Luanda is one mighty river changes person- of the few ways that village people ality, from foaming torrent to is Angola’s largest, lying entirely within the that could be turned to another use. Now they borders of the country. are now little more than roofless carcasses. can earn hard cash. It is a practice placid waterway across the that is slowly but surely stripping Bengo coastal plain to the Governor Pacavira now sees considerable Many of the buildings around the town the forests of Kwanza Norte, south of Luanda. scope for investment at Dondo. “There are two square are deserted except the hotel and, incon- though the government is trying to Its curved 102m-high wall important plants that will benefit from the gruously, the local offices of the MPLA, the control this by issuing licences. of concrete is ninth in the injection of capital,” he says. “One is an old FLNA and Unita, all side by side. There is a filling line and its turbines – buried textile plant complete with its original Italian station, still with its rusting pumps, and across PRIZED: Many of the spectacular in a cathedral-sized gallery equipment, and a clothing factory which can the street the shell of a once smart café, echoes rainforest trees of Kwanza Norte 250m inside the mountain – meet the increasing needs of our population in of the laughter and carefree conversation of are valuable for their special quali- deliver 280mw of power to the province. patrons long gone almost hanging in the air. At ties: the mafumera’s pliant the capital. “There is also a plant for wine and spirits the far end of the square stands a striking heartwood is easily hollowed to The whole system, operat- that needs rehabilitation so that we can supply church, its walls built of bricks of many colours make a canoe, the straight-grained ed by Angola’s national those who cannot afford the more expensive that seem to glow in the early morning mist. electricity company Empresa drinks that have to be imported.” The contrast between this ghostly place and kebaba is sought by furniture mak- Naçional de Electricidade, But perhaps the most high-profile business A train runs through it the bustling activity of the communities further ers, the hard ndulu makes the best runs some 200km from the in Dondo is the EKA lager brewery, famous south could hardly be more evident. But what charcoal. prestigious Capanda Dam in throughout the country and a name – literally As part of the programme to rebuild Angola’s is apparent is that this province is poised to northern Malange province. – on the lips of Angolans, thanks to its familiar rail system, the important link between Luan- exploit the considerable possibilities of its nat- CAUTIOUS: In the jungle hidden The final phase of the proj- yellow and purple logo. da and Malange will reopen this year, ural wealth in a way that will directly touch the eyes watchfully follow the passer- ect, two additional turbines Part owned by the French group Brassier constructed by the Chinese group, China lives of its 400,000 inhabitants. by from a safe vantage point high at Capanda, is due to be International Holdings and the Angolan gov- Railway 20. Some 200km of the track runs “This province holds a strategic position in the canopy. These monkeys and completed this June, more ernment, and half by Angolan shareholders, through Kwanza Norte province from Zenza from the political, economic and social point of other primates are keenly sought than 20 years after work the company has recently invested $30 mil- do Tombe, through Ndalatando to Lucala, view,” says governor Picavira. “Kwanza Norte is by local families as a free source of started in 1982. lion in modernising the plant. including a spur line to the city of Dondo. on the move. It has great potential and is open nourishing food whenever the “This money is to purchase hi-tech equip- to investors for many valuable projects.” ❖ opportunity arises.

34 SONANGOL UNIVERSO SPRING 2007 35 COMMERCE Banking on the Future For years Angolans have missed out on basic banking and financial services, but now families and businesses are growing accustomed to facilities that other communities take for granted

Whether building a road or renovating a stretch of railway, furnishing a school or equipping a hospital, all of Angola’s recon- struction efforts require solid financial backing and banking Wsupport services. Perhaps the most recent high profile example was the agree- ment between a syndicate of Angolan banks and the national airline TAAG that delivered a $200 million down payment, enabling the airline to substantially modernise and upgrade its fleet. This was a big deal by any standards and will eventually total nearly $1 billion – a clear signal of the banking sector’s return to robust health. But the face of banking that most Angolans see is its retail service and financial products sector. Spurred on by four years of peace, Angola’s banks have undergone a massive transformation, with more services, more branches and a better all-round repu- tation than ever before. Demand for deposits, credit facilities and financial expertise appears to be never-ending as both the authorities and the pri- vate sector seek to rebuild the economy and their livelihoods.

SPRING 2007 37 BRIAN STAUFFER “Business has improvements. Businesses, too, are reaping Africa, is no bad thing. Despite coming on in the rewards of a much broader palette of leaps and bounds, the banking sector still boomed beyond banking services. lacks many important services, and some “If you look at today’s banking sector com- worry it falls short of international standards. all expectations. pared to a few years back, it is like comparing One issue raised by local financiers is the Right now we chalk and cheese – the changes are that funda- fact that oil revenues are to a large extent still mental,” says one financier. being banked abroad. “International oil com- are doing a lot of “Now you have a solid, well-capitalised and panies expect high-quality service and it is better organised financial sector which is well true that Angolan banks are not yet up to trade with the placed to meet the demands of a growing scratch,” says one industry executive. “But how retail sector – Angolan economy.” can you expect Angolan banks to develop In provincial cities such as Malange – hard- these services when so much of the oil sector shops, restaurants hit during the civil war era – the return of the continues to bank overseas? Service quality banking system is just one more sign that can only be improved once this major part of and the like.” things are improving. The Banco Africano de the economy is incorporated into the Angolan Investimenti (BAI), BCI, and BFA have all system,” he adds. Manuel Lopes Teixeira, recently opened branches here. Yet it is these gaps in service provision that “Business has boomed beyond all expecta- are acting as a magnet to foreign financial manager, BAI, Malange. PHOTOS: PMP GLOBAL tions,” says Manuel Lopes Teixeira, the newly institutions. “It is not just New branches of domestic banks such as worker in the capital. “I’m still getting the doc- arrived BAI manager. “Right now we are doing “Angola is seen as a good business oppor- Banco de Fomento Angola (BFA), Banco de uments and filling in the paperwork, but I a lot of trade with the retail sector – shops, tunity because it is a large, unsophisticated, opening an account Comercio e Industria (BCI) and Banco de suppose it makes sense and it will be safer than restaurants and the like, but our target is the but extremely fast growing country,” says one Poupanca e Credito (BPC) are popping up in carrying lots of bank notes home in my purse.” construction industry and the regeneration of international investor looking to expand his that has become the most far-flung corners of the remotest The process of opening an account is no agriculture.” business in Angola. “Angola is not an easy easier. It is also provinces. In Luanda, too, new establishments, longer a bureaucratic nightmare, and checking Today, there are around a dozen banks country to do business in, that’s for sure. But from fancy business centres to tiny local retail balances and moving funds around is much operating across this vast country, mostly with patience and persistence, it can be very easier to get access banks on residential street corners, are also on more straightforward. domestic institutions but some from Portugal, rewarding.” the increase. “It is not just opening an account that has South Africa and elsewhere. In many ways, Angola is only just emerging to my money and At one freshly-painted branch of BFA in the become easier. It is also easier to get access to “The Portuguese traditionally dominated from the shadows of war, and banking is no find out information Maianga district in the heart of the capital, my money and find out information about my the financial services sector in Angola, which exception. Give the country another few years, customers agree that more choice is better for account and possible services I might require,” is no surprise as they were the colonisers, and its banks will no doubt be giving some of about my account them. “There used to be so few banks in town says one foreign resident who lived in Angola speaking the same language and responsible the larger institutions on the continent a run that the queues would often stretch out of the for more than two years before deciding to for putting in place most of the laws that regu- for their money, industry-watchers say. and possible door. It just wasn’t worth having a bank take the plunge. late the sector,” says one banking expert. This is great news for the sector, but it also services I might account,” says one customer as he waits to Cash machines were unheard of just a few The interest from foreign banks is continu- bodes well for the broader economy, which withdraw some of his savings. years ago in Angola. These days, customers ing to grow, fuelled by continuing prospects of needs a solid financial grounding to expand, require.” “The queues are shorter, the banks seem to can conveniently withdraw the equivalent of prolific economic growth. Industry officials say create jobs and increase national wealth. ❖ be more efficient and the staff are a lot more $200 a day at hundreds of ATMs around the that despite the recent spurt in banking acti- Foreign resident, Luanda professional. I no longer keep my kwanzas capital and further afield. vity there is still ample room for more players. under my bed,” he chuckles. “When I just need a little bit of cash in “It’s true that the number and size of banks In 2006 BFA increased the speed at which it kwanzas, I can use my cash card rather than here have grown very rapidly in the last three was expanding its network, opening 23 new changing dollars in a bank or on the street, or four years. But with the economy also branches and seven other centres to provide which can take ages,” adds the expatriate con- expected to grow fast in the coming years, personal services to customers – and plans to sultant. there will be plenty of space left in the mar- have 100 branches throughout the country by Customers can also use their bankcards to ket,” says the financier. the end of 2007. pay for goods in some shops and supermar- Many clients of South African banks, in Those who recall the lack of banking facili- kets, and they can keep track of their income particular, are keeping a close watch on ties during the war are amazed at the changes and outgoings via the Internet. Angola for its rich pickings in investment in such a short time. It is true that many “The Internet banking system is really opportunities. Amid this keen interest, banks Angolans, particularly at the lower end of the quite good – I can easily check if I’ve been paid such as ABSA, Stanbic and FirstRand, have economic spectrum, still do not have bank and see how much money I have, whether I’m either opened operations or are actively nos- accounts, but that trend is slowly changing. in Angola or out of the country on holiday,” ing around the Angolan banking scene. “My employers want to pay my wages says the consultant. The arrival of competition, especially from directly into a bank account rather than giving But it is not just the man or woman on the the English-speaking institutions that have me cash every month,” says Ana, a domestic street who is enjoying the benefits of these more experience of investment banking in

38 SONANGOL UNIVERSO WILDLIFE Fragile Beauty

Among the many unexpected joys of Angola’s countryside is its vibrant birdlife – but the fine balance that maintains its colourful variety is in danger

The brown city of Luanda awakes under a grey sky as our small group departs in the early morning. Our mission: to drive into the Tcountryside, climb a hill and look for birds. In fact, the capital itself has some beauti- ful birds, a common visitor to backyard gardens being the red-backed mousebird. With its burnt auburn rump, long feathery tail and black face, this is one of six species of mousebird, a family endemic to Africa. But in the country, outside the city, we are hoping to spot some more exotic species. As we head north, our guide, Ronnie Gallagher, shows satellite images of the track we will take, passing the small town of Caxito into Bengo province, to the hill we aim to climb. “It looks like it’s about 500 feet high and close to this road,” he says. Leaving the city behind, the people and infrastructure are sparser. We pass sponta- neous, colourful markets where women from Bengo come to sell tomatoes, sugar cane and collard greens. Illustrations by Libby Bourne

40 SONANGOL UNIVERSO SPRING 2007 41 the insects that flew out of the unburned Red-crested Turaco grasses to escape. “Following close behind them were starlings which would hop into the The Tauraco erythrolophus with its bright red crest, yellow burning embers to pick out the ready-roasted beak and white face, is easy to pick out in its preferred wood- bugs that failed to get away,” he recalls. land habitat. The turaco (the name sounds like its cry) is For birdwatchers, one of the delights in abundant in Angola’s Kissama National Park, and is popular observing these feathered creatures is studying among bird enthusiasts in Britain, where it breeds easily in captivi- their distinctive behaviour – the way they eat, ty. Turacos are unique among birds as the only species with true the way they interact and the way they red and green colour pigments – for most birds, their colours are respond to changes around them. For exam- the result of reflections caused by their feather structure. Although ple, naturalists in Sub-Saharan Africa often turacos live in flocks of up to 30, they breed as monogamous pairs, point out the raspy, alliterative call of the grey sharing the duties of nest building and sitting on the eggs lourie, which is its way of warning intruders to “go away!” For bird conservationists, the endemics hold a special importance and, because they highland plateau drops toward the coast, exist only within clearly defined areas, they are plunging as much as 2,000m in some of the vulnerable to extinction. More than half of spectacular cliffs of the south, and forming a Angola’s 14 known endemic species inhabit transition zone between vegetation character- “Following close “There’s a sacred ibis!” Ronnie points out the country around Gabela. Another area of istic of the arid coastal plain and the thicker as we peer through the dusty windows of our endemism includes the unique isolated pock- woodlands of the higher interior. behind them vehicle to catch a glimpse of the graceful water ets of Afromontane forest that occur in deep Around Gabela, famous in colonial times were starlings bird with its distinctive black hood and long mountain ravines such as the Tundavala and for its special shade-grown Ambiom coffee, decurved bill for plucking fish and crustaceans Bailundo mountains, and around Angola’s many farmers are now cutting down the old which would hop from marshy ground. highest point at Monte Moco (2,582m). trees and coffee plants to sow maize, beans Just before the Bengo River bridge, rows of The Western Escarpment is a major topo- and vegetables for market. Unfortunately, The organisation BirdLife into the burning stalls appear along the roadside. When we graphical feature running parallel to Angola’s there is no monitoring of how these activities International recognises these highland and embers to pick return in the afternoon, the road will be coastline. Here the granite bedrock of the may be harming bird species such as the escarpment woodlands as the Western Angola bustling with carloads of city people who Gabela akalat. endemic bird area, naming it as very high pri- out the ready- come to the riverside to lunch on fresh Angola’s Kissama National Park, some ority for conservation based on the cacusso, a bony, tasty river fish, washed down 350km from Luanda, encompasses part of the uniqueness of species to be found there and roasted bugs with cold beer and whisky. Unique to Angola escarpment forest and is home to some of the degree of threat they face. which failed to Further along, we see boys holding out Angola’s endemic birds. These include the The harvesting of timber for construction whole quarters of blood-red bushmeat. Hand- An endemic species is unique to a specific white-fronted wattle-eye and grey-striped and charcoal is one of the greatest threats to get away.” woven laundry baskets hang from tree locality where it has developed in ecologically francolin and, most colourful of all, the strik- Angola’s forests – as is clearing the land for branches and makeshift tables display bags of or geographically isolated places – such as ing red-crested turaco. farming. These trends have accelerated since home-ground manioc, a staple food of the the Galapagos Islands – and tends to be As we pass a sign for Mabuba, towards the end of the civil war, allowing many dis- Ronnie Gallagher, country people. highly vulnerable to habitat change, hunting Quicabo, we pause for a cup of coffee by a placed and refugee families to resettle in the Bird enthusiast “Have you ever been birding in Gabela?” I or the introduction of non-native species. The group of old, dilapidated, colonial houses, Angolan countryside. But now the government Conservation ask Ronnie, aware that this trip to the moun- 14 bird species listed here do not exist out- once a thriving plantation, where today is taking steps to redress the situation and pro- in Angola tainous region on the Western Escarpment, side Angola. women do chores and children play by an tect the environment. Grey-striped francolin some 40km inland from Porto Amboim in ageing papaya tree. The tiny Afromontane forest areas are Ornithologists Michael Mills Swierstra’s francolin Kwanza Sul province, is a favourite pilgrimage We rumble on, pausing to catch sight of a especially vulnerable and, if these patches dis- and Pedro Vaz Pinto are Red-backed mousebird for more experienced birdwatchers hoping to large raptor, and then losing it when it flies off appear, the many birds that inhabit them may founder members of Birds Red-crested turaco spot endemic species. and perches behind the greenish grey baobab also leave. Angola, an organisation that Rosey-faced lovebird “The closest I got was to the Sumbe area,” fruits that hang like overgrown ornaments on a Existing information about Angolan birds seeks to raise awareness about Braun’s bush-shrike he replies. “I’m not so interested in the giant, needleless Christmas tree. is extremely limited and imprecise. There have Angolan avifauna and encour- Gabela bush-shrike endemics, but I did get excited last weekend Notices stapled to the large tree by the been no ornithological studies in the country age interest in research and Gabela helmet-shrike when we went out toward Caguengue, on the Forestry Development Institute state that it is since the war began in 1975. Even with its end, conservation, while enthusiasts Angola slaty flycatcher Kwanza River.” illegal to cut down trees or to hunt without a the possibility of landmines is a potent obsta- such as Ronnie Gallagher make Gabela akalat Besides spotting a woolly-necked stork, licence. But, nearby, there is a clearing with a cle to any attempts at research, especially in their contribution on projects Angola cave-chat Ronnie had watched the progress of a grass few huts and a raised mound of red earth, vast areas of the south and southeastern such as the recent 2007 bird Pulitzer’s longbill, montane fire, kindled by locals to clear the thick brush. covered with tin and stones and smoke smoul- provinces of Cunene and Kuando Kubango count at Mussolo Bay. Elegant, swallow-like banded martins were Double-collared sunbird dering from beneath it. Some men are making that are still largely unexplored. swooping ahead of the flames, snapping up charcoal for sale in Luanda. In recent years, South African bird special-

42 SONANGOL UNIVERSO SPRING 2007 43 Gabela Akalat Rosy-faced Lovebird

The small, drab Sheppardia gabela is very shy and difficult The Rosy-faced Lovebird (Agapornis roseicollis), is native to arid to spot, often remaining motionless for long periods of time. regions in southwestern Angola, inhabiting lowlands and foothills, dry The range for this robin-like bird is quite small. Classified as open country, scrubby hillsides and vegetation bordering watercourses. A an endangered species, the Gabela akalat has been recorded loud and constant chirper, the lovebird is a very social animal and often only in a single forest block near the villages of Kumbira and congregates in small groups. They feed throughout the day, principally on Seles in Kwanza Sul province, though it may occur in other seeds gathered from the ground or taken from standing plants, flowers, derelict patches of the escarpment forest. The species is buds, and leaf shoots. Coloration can vary widely among populations but threatened by loss of habitat. None of the areas where the females are generally darker and greener, whilst males are smaller and Gabela akalat occurs is protected and in some places 20 to 70 brighter. Lovebirds are renowned for their sleep position in which they sit per cent of canopy trees and all the undergrowth are being side-by-side and turn their faces in towards each other. For several years cleared to plant crops such as bananas, cassava and maize the rosy-faced lovebird featured on Angola’s postage stamps

from another, we enter a grassy glade where Luanda. It is a reminder we can hear, but not see, many kinds of birds. of our brief excursion to Some make scratchy chirring sounds, oth- the country, which, ers resonant pings and bells. We head up the though rich in flora and bigger hill, stomping between waist-high grass fauna, has constantly to and granite boulders. As we come down, we compete with the pressures can hear the crackling of a grass fire, and the of a population also bent tiny embers rain down around us like black on survival. ❖ ists Richard Dean and Michael Mills snowflakes. have conducted research and through Birding On our way back to the car, Ronnie points Africa organise birdwatching tours in Angola. out a yellow-billed hornbill. With its heavy They are raising money to produce a bird atlas bowed bill for fruit eating, the hornbill is a for Angola. “Angola almost certainly harbours classic bird of the southern African savannah. undescribed species. Even in Luanda there is a Although this yellow-billed species is listed in swift which experts cannot identify,” says rainforests in the north to Namibe, one of the other countries of the region, the examples Michael Mills. driest deserts on earth. which are plentiful in Angola’s Kissama Park One of our group tells us about a confer- As a result, the country offers a diversity of are about two-thirds the size of those in South ence she attended in Malange on the palanca habitats, home to more than 920 documented Africa, and the colouring of the tail is also dif- negra, the giant sable with long curved horns, bird species. Unfortunately, there are limited ferent. native to Angola and a national symbol. Some resources available for implementation and Returning to the city, we pass trucks heavi- feared the animal to be extinct. Then, in 2005, enforcement of the policies and regulations ly laden with people, and men cycling motion-sensitive cameras photographed small that protect these habitats, such as those out- awkwardly with big bags of charcoal towards herds of the intensely secretive animal grazing lined in the government’s recently approved in the bush. National Biodiversity Strategic Action Plan. Likewise, there are many bird species Shortly after leaving the charcoal camp, we whose status in Angola is not well known sim- stop by a small river where we sight a blue ply because there is so little information waxbill – a small, seed-eating passerine of deep Transcontinental Stopover available. At the moment, no one is carrying cornflower blue. Ronnie also points out the To the south of Luanda where the Mussolo peninsula curves northward into the Atlantic out research or monitoring populations on a red-eyed bulbul. Ocean, lies the broad wetland of Mussolo Bay, a special area of concern for bird conservationists. regular basis. The only Angolan regarded as a The last stretch of road reveals a rise in the Attracting many thousands of water birds every year, this is a key migration point on the west bird expert is biologist and conservationist terrain, with a line of bulging blue hills rolling coast of southern Africa and at least 61 species have been recorded here. Some conservationists Pedro Vaz Pinto, whose diligent work led to the off towards the north and east. We turn onto a believe that the bay should be declared a wetland of international importance under the Ramsar rediscovery of the palanca negra (Universo 4). dirt track and then walk up. We see a makeshift Convention – an intergovernmental treaty that provides the framework for international co-opera- But despite the years of hostilities, which ground trap and a log balanced high in tree tion for the conservation of wetlands. also made life difficult for animals in the wild, branches for raising a beehive into the canopy. There are facilities where students and weekend birdwatchers can observe the multitudes of Angola is rich in avifauna. This large country, The tall grasses we walk through crunch waders, swimmers and fishers that feed on this tidal flatland. But Mussolo Bay is being degraded approximately the size of western Europe, and snap with jumping grasshoppers as we by extensive coastal development and by nearby salt-mining activities, which are jeopardising its comprises a range of ecosystems and biomes head towards the bigger hill that is our goal. unique value as a wetland habitat. almost unequalled in Africa, from Cabinda’s Near the valley, separating the foot of one hill

44 SONANGOL UNIVERSO SPRING 2007 45 LIFESTYLE Stop Stress As life becomes ever more pressured for Luanda’s high-fliers, thankfully there are solutions at hand to soothe away the strains of the day

Oil executive Ingracia Campos leaves the Bamboo Imperial Health and Beauty Salon with a spring in her step. She has just had an hour-long OShiatsu massage and is feeling on top of the world. “I’ve had a really tough week at work – I needed that,” she says as she prepares to return to the office. “Looking and feeling well here in Angola is important, there’s no doubt about it. I look forward to my visits here. I just wish I had time to come more often,” she adds. Indeed, life in Luanda is demand- ing. The constant traffic, the heat and the pressure to perform in one of the world’s fastest-growing economies can sometimes be too much to bear. With Angola widely seen as one of the most exciting oil provinces in Africa and the country working hard to rebuild after the end of its 27-year civil war, it is little wonder that there is a growing demand for relaxation and wellbeing services. ANTHONY FORONDA 46 SONANGOL UNIVERSO SPRING 2007 47 Bamboo, Mr Rosa and his wife Andreza the pressure of aerobics,” she explains. Gimenez, also a therapist, last year decided to More energetic sports classes such as the “A lot of our introduce a whole range of techniques, some calorie-burning spinning, step aerobics and clients complain of which were previously unheard of in the Afro-Brazilian martial art capoeira are also Angola, including acupuncture, Shiatsu, reflex- on hand at the “Fitness” gym, tucked away in a that they work too ology, craniossacral and ear therapies. residential area of the Miramar district. “With these treatments we try to help not “It is so good to sweat,” says one self-pro- hard. Others are only physical wellbeing but also emotional claimed workaholic, mopping her brow with a concerned about wellbeing. We can help bring problems to light towel after a strenuous spinning session. and then get rid of them,” explains Ms “When I’m exercising I forget about all the security and say Gimenez. “Some of these therapies try to problems I have in my job, and I get a real develop a better nervous system, others deal buzz afterwards.” that this keeps with stress or physical ailments. There is a lot It seems that the centres that provide them at home. of demand for these treatments. People are beauty, alternative therapies and fitness serv- enjoying them very much,” she says. ices can barely keep up with the requirements There are many For top-end, super-luxury services, a new of the capital’s population. “This demand has beauty complex on Luanda’s seafront still hardly begun, and it will grow a lot more different kinds of Marginal, complete with a swimming pool and in the coming years,” says Ms Pereira. stress.” clinic, is expected to open its doors soon. “There are not many options available and Still under construction, the sheer opu- so all the gyms are full. There is a massive Dilherman Rosa, lence of this establishment even impresses its potential market, enough room for more serv- builders. “You should see inside this place,” ices to be provided,” she adds, outlining her senior therapist, says one, taking off his hard hat as he leaves own plans to expand her business. Bamboo Imperial

PHOTOS: VEER – BLEND IMAGES & STOCKBYTE work for the day. “It’s going to be amazing Back in the city, another satisfied client “With these “There is plenty to do in Luanda at the end kind, Bamboo opened its doors in 2003, with when it opens, I’m sure.” leaves after a reflexology session with Mr Rosa. of a hard week’s work. We have beaches, bars, its serene staff from Sri Lanka offering mainly Natura, yet another recently opened estab- “That was really wonderful. The stress has treatments we try restaurants and discos,” says Gilberto Gomes, beauty treatments such as manicures, pedi- lishment in the capital’s Maianga district, dripped away and I feel like I’m walking on the a civil servant who tries to make time for a cures and facials. offers 12 types of massage, naturopathy treat- clouds,” she says with a smile – no doubt hop- to help not only massage at least once a month. It is one of scores of beauty salons, or salao ments and a men’s health clinic. ing that the feeling will last as she battles ❖ physical wellbeing “But at the end of the day, these activities de beleza, which have opened their doors in “There is growing demand for these servic- through the evening rush-hour traffic. sometimes tire you out even more. There are recent years. Some are less plush, like one es because people are more active and tension but also emotional times when I want to party with friends – that’s establishment in the Samba municipality of levels are increasing,” says owner Istadeva great – but I think it’s also really important to Luanda, which humorously promises clients Dada, who has studied clinical psychology, wellbeing.” invest in some ‘me’ time,” he adds. With that they can “enter ugly, leave beautiful.” naturopathy and physiotherapy. “They need demands like these on the increase, a whole Many others are more discreet and employ some kind of therapy to help them overcome Andreza Gimenez, therapist new industry is blossoming from the capital’s individuals who work on a freelance basis, vis- these stressful situations.” But preventing stress and its related prob- Bamboo Imperial desire to feel well – both inside and out. iting clients in their homes. “Some ladies “I think people here really need to look prefer to be pampered in the comfort of their lems is also about keeping fit and active. For after themselves. They seek our services homes, rather than face the traffic and the dirt those who prefer more gentle exercise, yoga because of the stress of too much work and of the city,” says 23-year-old Balbina Zuraima classes take place several times a week in a basic problems such as the lack of water and Delhote, a beautician who provides manicures subtly lit building in the Ingombotas district. electricity,” says Dilherman Rosa, a senior and pedicures for around 20 local and foreign “Yoga relaxes me,” says busy United Nations therapist at Bamboo Imperial. customers, including a few men. worker Christophe Illemassene. “When I came “A lot of our clients complain that they “People like to look nice for their to Luanda, I did yoga three times a week, but work too hard. Others are concerned about boyfriends and husbands and for going to par- recently I haven’t had time to go and I’ve been security and say that this keeps them at home. ties. During the war, they had more pressing climbing up the wall.” There are many different kinds of stress,” adds issues to worry about. Now that is in the past, Over on the city’s Ilha peninsula, Elisa Mr Rosa, recently arrived from Brazil. women in particular are much more conscious Pereira offers Pilates classes. “A person who Bamboo Imperial, as the name suggests, of the way they look,” she explains, before exercises regularly is less likely to feel stress has a distinctly oriental feel and an instantly rushing off to the home of another client. than a person who doesn’t. Pilates is very calming atmosphere. With its soothing music, But as everyone knows, beauty is only skin relaxing in particular,” she says of the stretch- Asian furniture and a cup of refreshing herbal deep. Feeling well on the inside is just as ing and strengthening activity that she teaches tea offered upon arrival, clients say they feel important as looking good on the outside, and at the Clube Naval three times a week. better as soon as they walk through the door. people are increasingly turning to massage “I’m getting more and more people coming One of the more luxurious outlets of its and alternative therapies. That is why at to my classes because Pilates is a really intelli- gent exercise – you get quick results without

48 SONANGOL UNIVERSO COMMUNITY

planting 500 trees around the orphanage, the making the Nzoji experience a little more fun donation of dozens of garden tools and wheel- and enjoyable for the children.” Planting barrows, 15 bicycles, 30 soccer balls, 450 The CAT initiative started in 2005 for Esso mosquito nets – and boxed lunches for all par- employees and their families who wanted to ticipants. As part of the event, presentations give something back to the communities in on malaria awareness and HIV/Aids were which they live and improve the quality of life given by Esso’s medicine and occupational for their neighbours. the health department and Esso employees who The teams are organised by a committee act as peer educators in the company’s health- made up of Angolan employees which evalu- awareness programme. ates proposed projects and then makes sure Future Following the launch ceremony at 9am, that every event is a successful and enjoyable there were soon dozens of small work teams to experience for those who take part. Esso pays be seen across the Nzoji facility, some digging for the materials and equipment required, and holes as part of the tree planting scheme with the employee team members give their time others carrying plants and trees to their desig- and energy. At six o’clock on a balmy August morning last nated locations. “Employees and their families have year, some 60 Angolan and expatriate employees At the same time, other Esso team mem- responded enthusiastically to all 12 of the of Esso Angola and members of their families bers distributed bicycles and footballs to the projects held so far,” says CAT committee Amet to travel to Luanda’s Calumbo community to younger children not engaged in planting chairman Fernando Pergado. “The scheme is participate in a joint project with the residents trees. It was not long before they had organ- not just good for staff relationships; it provides and staff of the Nzoji National Police Orphanage. ised an informal bicycle race, and the Esso a positive outlet for their desire to contribute It was the twelfth in a series of activities in volunteers quickly discovered that they were to the wider community around us.” the company’s popular Community Action Team no match for the nimble Nzoji youths when it More than 800 volunteer workers have par- (CAT) employee volunteer programme, with came to negotiating the course that weaved ticipated in CATs since the programme began. teams made up of Esso Angola workers and the across the sandy soccer pitch. Their efforts have included painting and reha- young residents, designed to provide an oppor- “It’s been a wonderful day,” said one of the bilitating orphanages, community centres and tunity for Esso staff and their families to work excited children. “We’ll be able to have lots of health facilities; arranging events for less for- together with the 450 orphans who are depend- fun with these bikes and balls for a long time tunate children, and donating materials and ent on the support they receive from the centre. to come.” supplies to needy organisations in the cities of Activities over the four-hour period included When the last of the trees had been plant- Luanda, Soyo and Lobito. ed, team members and orphanage residents There is a strong focus on health and safe- “Going to gathered in the central meeting hall for the ty and every CAT is preceded by a formal interactive presentations on malaria and safety review including the issue of safety different cities to Community projects HIV/Aids. This proved to be a lively session, gloves, hats and glasses for any work consid- help people we with a stream of questions from the audience. ered to pose a risk to participants. initiated by outside “There is a passion for knowledge on these “For every CAT held so far, we’ve received don’t ordinarily get matters,” commented Carla Magno, one of the many more volunteers than required,” says Mr organisations in presentation panel members. “It gives you a Pegado. “Holding these voluntary activities a chance to meet real feeling of having made a significant con- improves our company’s sense of teamwork, has been a really Angola often offer tribution to awareness of these subjects.” To and going to different cities to help people we unforeseen rewards round off the event, each of the children don’t ordinarily get a chance to meet has been rewarding and received a lunch box and a malaria bed net. a really rewarding and educational experience educational to all participants, For the Esso volunteers there was a bonus for everyone.” too – the opportunity to see something of But perhaps the true bonus lies in the fact experience for fostering a genuine Angola beyond the downtown Luanda area. that long after the dust has settled behind the “It’s been a really interesting experience,” said departing vehicles, the newly planted trees at everyone.” contact that one of the team, Bernie McGoldrick, as the Nzoji will grow strong and bloom, providing a reaches far beyond volunteers prepared to leave the orphanage. continuing inspiration and message of kinship Fernando Pergado, CAT “It has been satisfying for everyone to be able between the orphans and those who came committee chairman the initial event to meet a lot of new friends, and contribute to from afar to help them build their lives. ❖

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