Indian and Affaires indiennes Northern Affairs et du Nord Wild Rivers: Parks Pares Canada Published by Parks Canada under authority of the Hon. Judd Buchanan, PC, MP, Minister of Indian and Northern Affairs. INA Publication No. QS-1458-000-EE-AI Design: Gottschalk+Ash Ltd.

This and all other reports in the Wild Rivers series will also be available in French. Wild Rivers: Saskatchewan

Wild Rivers Survey, Planning Division, Parks Canada, Ottawa, 1974 2

Indians loading their at a portage, 1873 (Public Archives of Canada) 3

It is difficult to find in life any event which so effectually condenses intense nervous sensation into the shortest possible space of time as does the work of shooting, or running an immense rapid. There is no toil, no heart breaking labour about it, but as much coolness, dexterity, and skill as man can throw into the work of hand, eye, and head; knowledge of when to strike and how to do it; knowledge of water and rock, and of the one hundred combinations which rock and water can assume-for these two things, rock and water, taken in the abstract, fail as com­ pletely to convey any idea of their fierce embracings in the throes of a rapid as the fire burning quietly in a drawing-room fireplace fails to convey the idea of a house wrapped and sheeted in flames.

Sir William Francis Butler (1872) 4

©Crown Copyrights reserved Soon to be available in this series: Available by mail from Information Wild Rivers: Canada, Ottawa, K1A 0S9 Wild Rivers: Central British Columbia and at the following Information Wild Rivers: Northwest Mountains Canada bookshops: Wild Rivers: Territory Halifax Wild Rivers: The Barrenlands 1683 Barrington Street Wild Rivers: The James Bay /Hudson Montreal Bay Region 640 St. Catherine Street West Wild Rivers: Southwestern and Ottawa Eastern Ontario 171 Slater Street Wild Rivers: Quebec North Shore Toronto Wild Rivers: and Newfoundland 221 Yonge Street Winnipeg 393 Portage Avenue Vancouver 800 Granville Street or through your bookseller Price: $1.50 Catalogue No. R62-82/1974-1 Price subject to change without notice Information Canada Ottawa, 1974 5 Table of contents

Foreword 7 3 Churchill River Map of Churchill River The Wild Rivers of Saskatchewan 8 Saskatchewan: lle-a-la-Crosse to Climate 8 Sandy Bay 38 Planning the trip 9 4 Sturgeon-Weir River 1 Clearwater River Map of Sturgeon-Weir River Map of Clearwater River: Saskatchewan: to Lloyd , Saskatchewan, to Fort Maligne Lake 58 McMurray, Alberta 12 Further reading 65 2 Fond du Lac River Map of Fond du Lac River Saskatchewan: Wollaston Lake to 24 7 Foreword

Wild rivers are a priceless part of our The waterways were the mainstay of Parks Canada is promoting these chal­ natural heritage. These waterways, un­ the fur trade; they were the highways to lenging voyages of discovery, which touched by the march of man's techno­ the gold rushes. They did much to pro­ embrace both the past and the present. logical progress, are the arteries of our vide the economic nourishment through Wild rivers are important to Canadians land, and one of the main elements in its which Canada grew to its present stature. as integral components of our founding growth to nationhood. With the advent of modern technology, heritages. From the copper-coloured waterfalls some of our rivers were harnessed to serve However, a good deal of down-to- of the Labrador plateau, to the Canadian our newfound needs. But thousands earth information about the rivers and Shield's labyrinth of and streams, of miles of waterways, and the land they their habits is needed before anyone to the glacial torrents cutting through the pass through, remain essentially un­ attempts to navigate them. It is for this western mountains-wild rivers are all touched. reason that Parks Canada decided to that remain unharnessed of those water­ Today, Canadians are gradually re­ carry out surveys of wild rivers all across ways which first made it possible for this discovering these fascinating wild rivers. the country. We are publishing the re­ huge and varied country to be explored They are seeing nature on its own terms- sults of these surveys in the present series and developed. enjoying its works from the vantage of of booklets, in order to provide a practical Long before Europeans laid eyes on its own highways. They are recreating the guide for the modern "voyageur". them, these rivers served the native adventures of the explorers; struggling But there is one other very important peoples as vital sources of both food and over the same portages as the heavily- point you must bear in mind. "Wild" transportation. Later, the rivers were to burdened "coureurs de bois"; running really is the correct adjective to describe carry the newly-arrived Europeans on rapids which once hurtled "" many of the rivers, and only experienced other voyages of exploration and exploi­ and their precious cargoes toward the and well-equipped canoeists should en­ tation throughout the vast interior of the markets of Montreal; gently floating down ter these waters. You will find them a tre­ continent. And the settlers who followed majestic rivers which once carried mendous challenge. So it's up to you. travelled the same routes. thousands of anxious prospectors toward Our land and our rivers are waiting for the promise of gold. you to explore and rediscover them. _8 The Wild Rivers of Saskatchewan Climate

The chief attractions of trips on the wild In the summer months Saskatchewan rivers of Saskatchewan are the superb enjoys an excellent recreational climate. fishing and the magnificent scenery of Temperatures in the mid-20s Celsius the northern wilderness. To these are (mid-70s Fahrenheit) can be expected added the challenge of testing one's skill daily from June until the beginning of and endurance on a long and arduous September. The days are long and sunny, trip and the romance of exploring with only 5% centimetres (2% inches) an historic canoe route of the fur trade average precipitation each month. The era. nights are cool, but frost is unusual. Pre­ These are long, strenuous and isolated vailing winds come from the northwest. trips, recommended only for experienced It should be noted that ice does not river canoeists. There are long sets of usually leave the lakes in the Churchill rapids with no portage trail around them; area until the middle of May. many rapids require lining or wading through cold water. Many of the lakes to be crossed are large; unfavourable winds or weather can make such crossings diffi­ cult and dangerous-even temporarily impossible. The condition of being wind- bound for a day or days is always a possi­ bility during a trip of this length. 9

Planning the trip

In planning a canoe trip allow 25 to 30 with water, smothered with sand or soil, The National Topographic Series of kilometres (15 to 20 miles) per day pad­ and stamped down firmly. All garbage maps are available from: dling. Always allow extra time and food should be packed out with you. Canada Map Office, for such unforseen events as being wind- A sturdy canoe capable of handling Room 147, 615 Booth Street, bound or delayed by rain. well in rapids, and equipment for its re­ Ottawa, Ontario If egress is to be by plane make sure pair, are essential. Aluminum canoes were K1A0E9 arrangements have been made before you used throughout the wild rivers surveys, begin the trip. and proved most practical. Be sure to check in with some respon­ Since lining and hauling are often sible agency (the RCMP or the Depart­ necessary, lengths of strong rope are ment of Northern Saskatchewan*), giv­ essential. Several pairs of high-cut run­ ing them a route and expected time of ning shoes or other sturdy footwear arrival. And don't forget to check out which can take the abuse of rocks and with them at the end of the trip. constant wetness are also needed. Permits for fires and fishing may be In the more isolated regions an emer­ required. Extreme caution should be exer­ gency survival kit is advisable. The kit cised in the use of fire. Campfires should should contain high-energy food rations, be built on rock or sand only; afterwards waterproofed matches, fishhooks and they should be extinguished completely line, and emergency rescue flares for signalling aircraft. These items should be well waterproofed; if the kit is small it could be worn on your belt. Firearms are never necessary.

* Legislative Buildings, Regina, Saskatchewan. 11

1 Clearwater River 12

Clearwater River

Lloyd Lake, Saskatchewan to Fort McMurray, Alberta

Length 7 to 11 days/295 kilometres (185 miles) / approximately 8 to 14 portages.

Date of survey August 1972.

Miles 10 5 0 _20 30 13

Access and egress Maps required About the river

Lloyd Lake can be reached by charter (N.T.S. 1:250,000 scale) Geography float plane from , Saskatchewan 74F Lloyd Lake The Clearwater River runs through 3 or Fort McMurray, Alberta. Alternate ac­ 74C La Loche major types of surface rock: the granite cess points are: Careen Lake, to which 74 D Waterways and gneiss of the Canadian Shield; the you must also fly; and the Methy Portage valleys cut into the limestone of the or La Loche Portage from , Methy Formation; and its overlay of sand­ the headwaters of the Churchill River stone on the prairies. Over thousands of system. Fort McMurray, the point of years the river has cut a number of spec­ egress, is serviced by an all-weather road. tacular gorges and waterfalls into these sandstone and limestone strata. The resultant spectacular and diversified scenery, combined with the many rapids and ever-present current, makes the Clearwater one of the most exciting of Saskatchewan's wild rivers. 14

Flora History The valley of the Clearwater River is richly The Clearwater River was once a very forested. Along the upper reaches jack important link between the north-flowing pines predominate, thriving in the dry watershed and the east- Athabasca sand which covers the Pre- flowing Churchill River system. cambrian rock. Further down the river, During his travels on behalf of the jack pines give way to spruce up to 15 in 1788, metres (50 feet) tall and, still further became the first white man to cross the 1 downriver, the valley around Fort 20-kilometre (12 /2-mile) Methy Portage. McMurray is covered with equally large Having reached the Clearwater River, he poplar. followed it down to its junction with the and built the first trading Fauna post in the area. These great forests and the isolation of This route became crucial for supplying the area provide an excellent environment the voyageurs of the North West Com­ for many forms of wildlife. Moose and pany and the Hudson's Bay Company beaver are often seen, and evidence of during the great fur-trading years of the other mammals, such as bear, fox, wolf, nineteenth century. The present portage lynx and deer, can also be found. Many system around the rapids is virtually the species of ducks, and even Canada geese, same as it was then. can be seen nesting in the quieter parts of the river. The rivers and lakes abound with pike, and arctic grayling. 15

The canoe trip

Lloyd Lake to Virgin River The Clearwater drains Lloyd Lake from Gibson Bay. The first rapids begin 5 kilo­ metres (3 miles) downstream from the end of Gibson Bay. A portage trail, 255 metres (285 yards) long and in excellent condition, begins in a bay to the left of the first chute. Below this there are sev­ eral sections of fast water and a small chute before the next major rapids. These next rapids begin 4 kilometres (27a miles) downstream from the first portage. They should be carefully sur­ veyed before any attempt is made to run them. No real portage trail exists, but if a portage is necessary the left shore offers the easiest passage. For 37 kilometres (23 miles) below these rapids the river meanders through a wide sandy valley, with no major ob­ structions to navigation. High granite cliffs and a sudden change in the direction of the channel mark the advent of 3 short rapids, all of which should be examined before running.

Entering a rapid on the Upper Clearwater River near Lloyd Lake 16

Just downstream are some long rapids through a narrow gorge which must be portaged. The portage trail, 1,010 metres (1,120 yards) long and in good condition, begins on the right shore of a narrow bay just upstream and to the right of the rapids. Below this portage the river runs without interruption to the entrance of the Virgin River. At this junction, the canoeist might paddle up the Virgin River for about 1 V2 kilometres (1 mile) to the bottom of a magnificent set of rapids. These rapids drain Careen Lake, run through a beau­ tiful gorge, and are the home of many record-size arctic grayling. There are several trails along the west side of the gorge. This side trip is well worth the extra time.

The Virgin River, which drains Careen Lake and joins the Clearwater River 17

Virgin River to the Descharme River gorge begins on the right shore, about channel is the best to run. The canoeist Just below the junction of the Clearwater 15 metres (20 yards) upstream from the should then take the centre, taking care and Virgin rivers there are small rapids. beginning of the gorge. It is 110 metres in the shallows at the bottom. The third A 75-metre (80-yard) portage on the left (125 yards) long and in excellent part is a straight channel .4-kilometre shore bypasses them. condition. (%-mile) long; it is very shallow and may This is followed by a 11/2-metre (5- There is another rapid 3 kilometres have to be waded at the bottom. foot) waterfall, separated by 2 , (2 miles) below the gorge. It is a single These are followed by Olson Rapids, a which must be portaged. The portage strong chute which can be run down the series of 6 sets of shallow, fast water trail begins on the right shore of the right right after careful examination. For the separated by short intervals of slack channel in a very small bay, just a few more cautious, an excellent portage, 95 water. All can be run without difficulty. metres upstream from the falls. It is 115 metres (105 yards) long, begins on the The Mackie Rapids mark the approach metres (125 yards) long and in good left shore. to the junction of the Descharme River. condition. The next set of rapids begins 13 kilo­ The first part of Mackie Rapids is a There is a long and difficult rapid 2% metres (8 miles) above Olson Rapids. section of shallow fast water. The second kilometres (1 % miles) downstream. It is The first part goes through a large boulder is a very strong rapid, separated into 2 advisable to carefully examine the entire field, but it is short and can be run down channels by an ; the left channel is length of the rapid before deciding the centre. The second part is separated the best to run. At periods of low water it whether to run it. A portage trail, 135 into 2 channels by an island; the left may be necessary to line the bottom metres (150 yards) long and in good section. Below this rapid are 2 sections shape, begins in a small bay just to the of shallow fast water before the entrance right of the rapid. It may be advisable to of the Descharme River. take this portage, especially at high water. Below this are 2 sections of fast water before the Clearwater River runs through a granite gorge. The portage past the 18

Descharme River to Contact Rapids is advised to explore this area and define Simonson Rapids Gould Rapids to Simonson Rapids his or her plans carefully before beginning These extend for more than a kilometre Of all the rapids on the Clearwater River this portage. A 360-metre (400-yard) and are a complex series of ledges and which must be run, Gould Rapids are the carry through the woods on the left still boulder fields, separated by occasional most difficult. They are also very long. leaves a tricky rapid with whirlpools at sections of quiet water. There is no por­ Lining is impossible, and there is no the base of the falls to be negotiated. tage trail, and running the rapids safely portage trail. The best route is to take the There is another rapid one kilometre requires a great deal of manoeuvering. right channel around the first large island, (1/4-mile) downstream. It is separated There is one severe ledge that requires and then the 2 small chutes back into the into 2 channels by an island. The right lining or carrying. main channel. From here it is possible to side of the right channel appears to be examine the last chute and decide on a the best course, but careful examination Contact Rapids course of action. from the island is still a necessity. No The rapids below the entrance of the The first "R" marked on map 74C be­ portage trail exists. McLean River are known as the Contact low Gould Rapids is actually a waterfall. The Clearwater drops over another or Granite rapids. They are the last expo­ Although a portage trail is thought to spectacular waterfall 5 kilometres (3 sure of Precambrian rock along the Clear­ exist on the right, the survey team did miles) below these rapids. The portage water River. There is an excellent portage, not find it. There is a very poor passage begins on the right side of the right 1,150 metres (1,280 yards) long, begin­ around the falls on the left, but it does channel, about 70 metres (80 yards) up­ ning on the right shore in a bay, just be­ not bypass the rapids below. The canoeist stream from the falls. The trail is 210 fore the westward bend in the channel. metres (235 yards) long and in good condition. The falls are spectacular, sur­ rounded by 20-metre (70-foot) limestone cliffs. A small ledge, %-kilometre (%- mile) below, can be run on the right. 19

Contact Rapids to Fort McMurray Methy Portage Below Contact Rapids, the top of the valley rises to 180 metres (600 feet) in places, as the Clearwater cuts deeper into the sedimentary rock. The historic Methy Portage can be seen on the left shore, directly opposite a fire tower which stands on the right shore. It is well worth hiking to the top of the valley along this old trail.

Whitemud Falls This is the first major exposure of lime­ stone bedrock along the Clearwater River. Just beyond a flowerpot island on the right, a channel opens on the extreme right. This channel splits. To the left, a short channel returns to the main channel and the falls. The portage begins on the right shore of this small channel; it is 430 metres (480 yards) long and in good condition. Time should be taken to view

Canoeists shoot rapids in the Clearwater River 20

this beautiful waterfall, which drops through a limestone gorge. One kilometre below Whitemud Falls there is a small chute which can be easily run. A portage, 105 metres (115 yards) long, begins on the left about 70 metres (80 yards) upstream from the rapid, but it is primarily used for upstream travel.

Pine Rapids These rapids run through a limestone canyon. A beautiful portage trail through limestone bluffs, 980 metres (1,090 yards) long and in good condition, be­ gins on the left 65 metres (70 yards) upstream from the rapids. The rapids can be run by expert canoeists, but care must be taken to avoid the many small ledges.

The Clearwater River 21

Bigrock Rapids right of centre, while the more cautious These consist of 2 sections of shallow, could carry over the ledge or take the fast water. A 180-metre (200-yard) por­ portage. tage on the right bypasses the second section. Fort McMurray The Clearwater River meanders 110 Long Rapids kilometres (67 miles) from the last rapids There is a 2-kilometre (1 %-mile) portage to the Athabasca River, obstructed only in good condition on the right of these by a section of rough, fast water where rapids. The first part of the rapids consists the Christina River enters the Clearwater. of a series of small ledges which may be At Fort McMurray, the best place to end run. The rest of Long Rapids is shallow the trip is at the marina and float plane fast water. Some wading may be required base. This area is located just past the during periods of low water, to avoid docks and warehouses, through a narrow damaging canoe bottoms. channel on the left. From here it is only a short walk to downtown Fort Cascade Rapids McMurray. Cascade Rapids are the last rapids before Fort McMurray. There is a 790-metre (880-yard) portage on the right, which is in good condition. There is one severe ledge. A very experienced canoeist might run this ledge through a point to the 23

2 Fond du Lac River 24

Fond du Lac River

Saskatchewan: Wollaston Lake to Stony Rapids

Length 7 to 11 days/270 kilometres (170 miles)/ approximately 8 portages.

Date of survey August 1972.

Miles 25

Access and egress Maps required About the river

At the present time, Wollaston Lake is (N.T.S. 1:250,000 scale) Geography accessible either by float plane, or via the 64L Wollaston Lake From Wollaston Lake to the community new all-weather road into the Gulf 74I Pasfield Lake of Stony Rapids, the Fond du Lac River Mineral Mine on Wollaston Lake. There 74P Stony Rapids drops 182 metres (606 feet), with a 67- are air charter firms in Stony Rapids, and metre (222-foot) drop in the last 30 regular scheduled flights out to Lac la kilometres (20 miles) between Black Ronge and Prince Albert, both of which Lake and Stony Rapids. The Fond du Lac are serviced by roads. flows north and west, first through the Precambrian Shield and then through the Athabasca sandstone geologic forma­ tion. The canoeist will see a variety of magnificent sandstone cliffs, sandy beaches, granite walls and spectacular waterfalls. 26

Flora History The banks of the Fond du Lac River are The Fond du Lac River was first docu­ covered predominantly by black spruce. mented in 1796 by David Thompson of In areas where the soil is sandy and dry, the Hudson's Bay Company. He was jack pine thrive. Some white spruce and searching for a route into the Mackenzie tamarack are also found along the route. River watershed, to provide an alternative to the one along the Churchill and Fauna Clearwater rivers. During his return trip, Wildlife is undisturbed along the Fond Thompson and his guides lost their du Lac River. Moose and black bear may canoe, rifles and supplies while lining up be observed at close range. A large what are now known as Thompson variety of ducks and other birds, includ­ Rapids. ing eagles, inhabit the area. Arctic gray­ ling, walleye, northern pike and lake trout provide excellent fishing. 27

The canoe trip

Wollaston Lake to Redbank Falls The rapids at the outlet may usually be section can be run. No real portage trail Wollaston Lake run by an experienced canoeist who has exists, although a combination of wildlife The Fond du Lac River begins in the examined them carefully. The first part trails on the left shore may be used to northwest corner of Wollaston Lake in is a fast chute through a boulder bed, bypass the rapids. Cunning Bay. There is a short section of best run down the centre at first and to Approximately one kilometre down­ shallow, fast water 3 kilometres (2 miles) the left of centre near the bottom. The stream from these rapids there is a sec­ below the outlet. A further 3 kilometres second part begins approximately 45 tion of shallow fast water extending for (2 miles) below that, there is another metres (50 yards) downstream, after a one kilometre (Va-mile). Some wading small rapid in 3 parts: the first 2 parts are small expansion; it also runs through a may be required when water levels are shallow but can be negotiated with little boulder bed, and ends in a series of large low. difficulty; the third section is extremely standing waves. shallow and it is advisable to line or wade For the more cautious canoeist, and Cascade Rapids to Crooked Lake this part down the right side. Approxi­ for everyone in times of low water, there Cascade Rapids begin at the end of the mately one kilometre before Tromburg is a 610-metre (680-yard) portage trail section of fast water. They consist of Bay, there is another section of fast water around these rapids. It is in excellent heavy waves and a number of ledges, which is best run on the left side. condition, and begins at a dock on the and cannot be run. The portage begins on left shore of Hatchet Lake about 45 the left bank, in a small weedy bay just Hatchet Lake metres (50 yards) upstream from the above the rapids; the trail is 395 metres The Fond du Lac River enters Hatchet outlet. (440 yards) long, and in excellent con­ Lake at the southeast end, and leaves dition. through narrows at the northwest end Corson Lake The Fond du Lac River then runs into of the lake. The outlet from the lake is There are several attractive natural camp­ Crooked Lake. The surrounding land­ found by keeping to the right after sites on Corson Lake. At the outlet from scape exhibits relatively flat relief, offer­ entering the narrows. the lake there is a rapid, broken into 2 ing few campsites until the end of the sections. The first section is best lined lake, where some sandy beaches can be down the left shore, but the second found. 28

Poplar Rapids These rapids at the end of Crooked Lake are 1/4-kilometre (%-mile) long, and should be studied carefully before any attempt is made to run them. The best route to run is to the left of centre going around the bend. Toward the bottom, the water is extremely shallow and the canoeist must pick a path through scat­ tered boulders. There is no portage trail The first large sandstone formations on the Fond du Lac River can be seen on the right shore at the bottom of the rapids. An abandoned trapper's cabin can also be seen on the right shore. Approximately one kilometre downstream there is another short but strong rapid which might be run.

Fond du Lac Rapids at the outlet of Hatchet Lake 29

Demicharge Rapids Redbank Falls Otter Lake to Brink Rapids The Demicharge Rapids, at the north end Redbank Falls is not a waterfall. It is a Otter Lake of Westfound Bay, are approximately ledge, which can be run down the right- This is a long lake with a deep straight %-kilometre (%-mile) long. A 365-metre hand side of the channel. The lower part rapid in the narrows half-way through (400-yard) portage trail begins on the requires some manoeuvering to avoid the the lake. The rapid can be easily run down left shore about 45 metres (50 yards) boulders. the right side. The western side of the upstream from the rapids. It is in poor Approximately 5 kilometres (3 miles) lake has several large sandy beaches shape and actually consists of a number downstream from Redbank Falls, the which make good campsites. of animal trails. These rapids should be Fond du Lac River is separated into north run only after a careful survey of the and south channels by an island. The Thompson Rapids entire section. north channel is quite shallow even in Where the Fond du Lac River descends high water, and contains a number of out of Otter Lake, there is a small chute. Flett Rapids shallow rapids and narrow chutes which Thompson Rapids are 180 metres (200 These rapids are marked on map 64L can all be run without difficulty. The yards) beyond the chute. The first of 2 They can be run, and the boulders can southern channel is wider, and is marked sections runs through a shallow gorge be easily avoided. Below Flett Rapids, at the beginning by a strong rapid. incised in sandstone. There is no portage another section of fast water drains into trail around it; the canoeist who wishes to Kosdaw Lake. The outlet of the Fond du avoid running the rapids will find the Lac is from the northwest comer of right shore easiest to follow. Kosdaw Lake. 30

To run the first section, the right channel is the safest route, but care should still be taken to survey the entire length of the rapid before starting. The second section is easily run by following the deep water channel in the centre of the river.

Manitou Falls Approximately 2Vz kilometres (1V* miles) downstream from Thompson Rapids, fast water, small riffles and larger sandstone banks warn of the approach of Manitou Falls. In particular, there are 2 ledges in this section of the Fond du Lac. The first ledge begins after the river turns to the right through a small rapid; it can be run along the extreme left. The second ledge is a small waterfall which must be portaged. The trail begins on the left bank, approximately 55 metres (60 yards) upstream from the ledge in a small bay. The 370-metre (410-yard) trail begins

Thompson Rapids, Fond du Lac River 31

with a steep 4%-metre (15-foot) em­ bankment, but otherwise it is in good condition. The Manitou Falls portage is one kilometre (%-mile) below the second ledge, on the left bank of the left channel immediately above the falls. The trail is in good shape, 120 metres (130 yards) long, ending in a small sandy cove. Manitou Falls is followed by approxi­ mately 8 kilometres (5 miles) of fast water, shallow rapids and small shelves. The latter are often difficult to see from upstream.

Manitou Falls, Fond du Lac River 32

Brink Rapids to Black Lake reached by making a quick right turn it begins on the left bank, 35 metres (40 Brink Rapids perpendicular to the main channel, yards) upstream from the rapids. The Brink Rapids consist of 2 ledges and a immediately after running a small chute. second section of Perch Rapids can boulder field. It is advisable to line or Toward the end, where the channel be run down either the extreme right carry past the 2 ledges on the left shore, becomes wider and shallower, it may be or the extreme left side. but the boulder field can be run by necessary to wade. Approximately one kilometre down­ "picking" through the rocks and Below Brassy Rapids there are 2 stream there is another rapid, which can shallows. minor sections of fast water before the be run along the left shore without diffi­ Fond du Lac turns north. culty. The next rapids are marked on Brassy Rapids map 74P, beginning just after the river There are 2 routes through Brassy North Rapids makes a slight jog to the left; ledges Rapids-one north and one south of the These rapids are located on the north­ block the centre of the channel, but the island which separates them. The north ward bend of the river. It is advisable to rapids can be run down either side. channel, one kilometre long, is by far the examine the shelves from the left bank better of the two. Winding and deep, it is before attempting to run them. Burr Falls one of the more exciting rapids on the There are 2 channels around Burr Island. Fond du Lac River. The north channel is Perch Rapids Neither channel is navigable and both The next rapids are found just down­ must be portaged. stream from the entrance of the Perch River, which drains Perching Lake. They consist of 2 sections. There is an excel­ lent portage trail bypassing the first section; 170 metres (190 yards) long. 33

The north channel portage is 920 Black Lake to Stony Rapids Elizabeth Falls metres (1,020 yards) long, in excellent Black Lake For those who decide to continue by shape, and begins on the right shore This large, beautiful lake is subject to high water to Stony Rapids, Elizabeth Falls is approximately 35 metres (40 yards) up­ winds and heavy waves. There are many the first significant obstacle after Black stream from the head of Burr Island. excellent campsites by the sand beaches Lake. The portage trail is 5 kilometres The portage around the falls on the on the south shore. The outlet of the Fond (2% miles) long and in excellent condi­ south channel is in 2 sections. The first du Lac River is southwest of Fir Island. tion; it begins on the left bank at the is 250 metres (280 yards) long and fishing camp. Alternatively, a truck may begins on the left bank, about 90 metres It is possible to end the canoe trip at be hired at one of the fishing camps to (100 yards) downstream from the head this point. Transportation to Stony Rapids transport equipment to Middle Lake. of Burr Island. This trail ends in a small airport may be hired at one of the fishing Time should be taken to walk along the inland lake which must be crossed by camps near the river outlet, or 3 kilo­ west shore and view the splendid falls canoe. There is then a 550-metre (600- metres (2 miles) southwest in the com­ and gorges. yard) portage to the lower end of the munity of Black Lake. south channel. Both sections of the Elizabeth Falls and Woodcock Rapids, Woodcock Rapids portage trail around the south channel downstream from Black Lake, are among Middle Lake drains into Stony Lake are in fair condition. the more spectacular features on the through Woodcock Rapids. The portage Time should be taken to view the spec­ Fond du Lac River. But they cannot be trail around the rapids begins on the tacular falls, rapids and gorges which seen from the lengthy main portage trails, northwest shore of Middle Lake, above make up the Burr Falls section of the and to run, line and carry around the the first section of fast water, and by­ Fond du Lac River. many individual falls and rapids is difficult passes the entire complex of rapids and and hazardous work. 34

falls. It is in poor condition, and quite hard to find since it begins some distance back from the shore. The trail is 314 kilometres (2% miles) long. It is possible to follow the river and portage around the 2 spectacular water­ falls, but it is a very arduous route. The first 2 chutes of Woodcock Rapids can be run easily; the left channel is the best choice in both cases. The third chute is split by an island; here the right channel is the best one to run, but it should be examined carefully before a start is made. To the left, an easy narrow chute leads into a pool above the first waterfall of this stretch. The portage around the falls begins in a weedy bay on the left, 90 metres (100 yards) upstream from the falls. The trail is confused and difficult, and should be

Overlooking Elizabeth Falls on the Fond du Lac River 35

surveyed and traced before beginning the Stony Rapids portage. About 14 metres (15 yards) The last rapids are just upstream from the in from the shore, a mining exploration settlement of Stony Rapids. They are in 2 line must be followed to the right almost sections, both of which can be run down to the top of the hill. Then there is a the left side after careful examination. rough trail cut along the cliff near the Excellent portage trails also exist along falls, leading down to the turbulent both sides. water at their base. The settlement contains a store, a post Below this spectacular waterfall, a office, a Saskatchewan Department of small chute may have to be lined before Natural Resources radio station, an arriving at Woodcock Falls. R.C.M.P. post, and air charter firms. There is also scheduled air service to La Woodcock Falls Ronge and Prince Albert. A rough portage trail, consisting of a combination of a mining exploration line and a path, bypasses Woodcock Falls. The trail begins on the left, approximately 25 metres (30 yards) upstream from the falls. It is 390 metres (430 yards) long, and there are several private cabins at the end of it. 37

3 Churchill River 38

Churchill River

Saskatchewan: lle-a-la-Crosse to Length Date of survey Sandy Bay 20 to 25 days/650 kilometres (400 miles)/ June and July, 1972. approximately 28 to 35 portages.

Miles 39

Access and egress Maps required

Canoes may be launched at either of the (N.T.S. 1:250,000 scale) Barber Lake- 2 Saskatchewan Department of Natural 730 lle-a-la-Crosse located below the large island south Resources "camp kitchens". They are 73P Lac of Great Devil Rapid; on the west side of South Bay at lle-a- 63M Pelican Narrows Townsite- la-Crosse. These are accessible by a on west shore of Bay below "U" of "resources development" gravel road, (N.T.S. 1:50,000 scale) "CHURCHILL" on map 73P. extending north from the community of 73P/10 Otter Lake Highway 2 crosses the Churchill River at Green Lake. Canoes may also be launched 73P/7 Stanley Otter Rapids. from the community of lle-a-la Crosse, 73P/8 Nistowiak Lake approximately 225 kilometres (140 miles) 73P/9 GuncoatBay north of Green Lake by gravel road. Egress is at the bridge across Otter Please note that Stack Lake, Mountney Rapids, 350 kilometres (220 miles) Lake, Barker Lake, Hayman Lake and downriver from lle-a-la Crosse, or at the Missinipe Townsite were named after Missinipe townsite on Walker Bay of map 73P was printed. To enable you to Otter Lake. Here, radio communication follow this route description, please add with La Ronge is possible, and car or air these locations to your map: transportation to La Ronge and points Stack Lake- south can be arranged. The townsite is the small lake between Trout Portage 80 kilometres (50 miles) north of La and Rock Trout Portage; Ronge, via gravel highway. Sandy Bay, Mountney Lake- the termination point of this trip, has both west of Little Rock Portage; an airport and a seaplane base. The Hayman Lake- village is serviced by an all-weather road upstream of Great Devil Rapids; from Pelican Narrows. 40

About the river

Geography stretches of smooth water. The surround­ Flora The Saskatchewan portion of the ing landscape is uneven and hummocky, Most of the countryside discussed here Churchill River rises in the sedimentary with few elevations more than 60 metres lies in the spruce and birch forest region. lowlands of northwest Saskatchewan, (200 feet) above river level. Precambrian The spruce tend to predominate along flows in a generally eastern direction rock exposures are common east of most of the Churchill, but the hardwoods, skirting the southern edge of the Precam- Dipper Lake, but are most evident in the such as birch and poplar, are dominant brian Shield into Manitoba, and then islands and shores of Sandfly and Black wherever glacial drift has covered most of drains into . It is a river that Bear Island lakes. The largest lakes along the Precambrian outcrops, as it has is typical of those in the Canadian Shield— the route are lle-a-la-Crosse, which is 65 around Lac lle-a-la-Crosse and the a chain of interconnected lakes and kilometres (40 miles) long, and Pine- Sturgeon-Weir River near . streams. Along its course there are rapids, house, which is 55 kilometres (35 miles) Occasional groves of tamarack and pine falls, narrow chutes, broad expanses of long. are found all along the route wherever lakes dotted with islands, and long placid The Sturgeon-Weir River drains a the soil is thin. Huckleberries, blueberries, number of lakes south of the Churchill raspberries, crowberries and strawberries River, and eventually empties into the are common. . It rises in the Precambrian Shield and flows south into the Devonian limestone region of central Saskatchewan. 41

Fauna History main access route to the northern interior Although they are not easy to spot, a Before white settlers arrived in this part and the Mackenzie Basin. The route was wide variety of mammals inhabit most of of Canada, the river was travelled by finally abandoned with the building of the area. Most common are moose, and Indians. Then Joseph the railroad to and the road caribou, lynx, wolf, black bear, mink, Frobisher, of the North West Company of from there to the Athabasca River. muskrat and beaver; marten, weasel and Montreal, travelled from the Saskatchewan otter are found in varying numbers. A River, up the Sturgeon-Weir River and great number of loons and various over Frog Portage into the Churchill species of ducks and geese will be seen River, establishing a link between the all along the route; in certain areas, large northern interior and the southern route populations of pelicans, bald eagles and to Montreal. golden eagles are present. The Churchill After the union of the Hudson's Bay River and the surrounding lakes are well Company with the North West Company known for their northern pike, walleye, in 1821, the lower Churchill was com­ whitefish and lake trout. pletely abandoned as a trading route. For a century afterwards,the route from Cum­ berland House to Lac la Loche was the 42

The canoe trip

Ile-a-la-Crosse to Sandfly Lake Drum Rapids About %-kilometre (%-mile) below the Lac Ile-a-la-Crosse The series of rapids known as Drum end of the portage is the fourth section of Lac Ile-a-la-Crosse is an unbroken Rapids can be subdivided into 4 parts. the rapids. This series, however, is short expanse of water stretching 65 kilometres The first stretch of fast water can be run and not difficult. The left side can be run (40 miles) in a north-south direction. The without danger; the left side appears to a large, quiet cove. surrounding relief is generally flat and easier to descend. The second part of this the forest cover consists mostly of poplar, series occurs about %-kilometre (%-mile) Leaf Rapids with some spruce around the northern below the first; it is a sequence of mixed Leaf Rapids may be run, but the safer portions of the lake. There are sandy fast water and rapids which may be run. course is the portage. The trail is 780 beaches along both shores. The end of this second series of rapids is metres (870 yards) long and in fair con­ marked by 2 boulders projecting from the dition. It starts as a break in the willows Shagwenaw Rapids water near the right shore. on the right shore, less than 90 metres The Shagwenaw Rapids, in the channel The third section is the main Drum (100 yards) from the rapids, and parallels linking the north end of Lac Ile-a-la- Rapids; it starts about %-kilometre (%- the shore. Crosse with Shagwenaw Lake, present mile) below the end of the second sec­ no problem to the average canoeist. They tion, after a stretch of quiet water. The Deer Rapids are little more than fast water at normal portage around these rapids is 290 metres Deer Rapids consists of 2 distinct sets of water levels. There is, however, a one- (320 yards) long and in good condition. fast water, both of which may be run or kilometre (%-mile) portage around the The beginning of the trail shows as a waded. In the area around and between rapids connecting Lac-lle-a-la-Crosse clear break in the willow-lined shore Deer Rapids there are several good with the settlement of . 225 metres (250 yards) above the rapids natural rock campsites. on the south shore. 43

Dipper Rapids Knee Rapids Snake Rapids Dipper Rapids are difficult and must be Knee Rapids is in 2 sections. The first Snake Rapids, at the outlet of Sandy portaged. The trail is 180 metres (200 part must be portaged via a 325-metre Lake, is a fairly long series of rapids, yards) long and in excellent shape. It (360-yard) trail which starts on the north parts of which can be waded. A portage starts on the left side at a prominent rock shore at a big, bare rock outcrop. A bare trail starts as a shoreline break in a small outcrop immediately above the main drop rock at the end of 90 metres (100 yards) cove, 180 metres (200 yards) northeast of the rapids; one must pass through of fast water indicates the start of the of the outlet from Sandy Lake. (There is some fast water in order to reach it. trail. The second part of Knee Rapids can another break in the willows 90 metres be run. There is a good sandy landing (100 yards) left of the outlet from Sandy Crooked Rapids point and campsite at a cove on a point Lake, but this trail leads to a trapper's Crooked Rapids consists of 5 distinct on the west bay of Knee Lake. Knee Lake cabin overlooking the first fast water of parts, of which some sections may be has large expanses of open water which Snake Rapids.) run. At the head of the rapids there is a may be difficult to cross in rough weather. There are good campsites at the 180-metre (200-yard) portage which is From Bently Bay, the Churchill River narrows separating McDonald Bay from in poor condition. Its start is at a slight flows uninterrupted for 29 kilometres the main part of Snake Lake. Cowpack break on the right-hand shoreline, beyond (18 miles), entering Dreger Lake through Island has been burned over, but the 2 the reeds, about 180 metres (200 yards) a maze of islands. An easy set of rapids smaller islands southwest of Cowpack below a small willow-covered island. at the southeast end of Dreger Lake are are good natural campsites. The little run before reaching Sandy Lake. Many settlement of Belanger at the northeast attractive natural campsites are found on end of Snake Lake consists of a few old the shores and islands of this lake. houses which are occasionally occupied by Indian families. 44

Sandfly Lake to Dead Lake Sandfly Lake Sandfly Lake is one of the most beautiful lakes along the route. Relatively shallow in spots, it has rocky islands which pro­ vide an almost unlimited number of campsites to choose from. At the outlet from Sandfly Lake is a short set of rapids. These require a 35- metre (40-yard) portage. The trail starts at the lip of a little cove on the north side of the outlet, where the rapids occur.

Needle Rapids Needle Rapids can be run, preferably on the left side. The portage is 460 metres (500 yards) long, starting in a cove on the north side. The trail passes through muskeg in places, and is hard to follow.

Sandfly Lake in the Churchill River 45

At Needle Falls a sharp drop is by­ Birch Portage starts nearer to the rapids and joins the passed by a 50-metre (55-yard) trail The main drop of Birch Rapids, followed longer trail. which begins upstream and to the right by some lesser rapids, separates Black The second portage is 125 metres of the falls. Silent Rapids are easy to Bear Island Lake from Trout Lake. Birch (140 yards) long and starts on the right shoot, though the whirlpools at the bot­ Portage is approximately 215 metres bank, 90 metres (100 yards) before the tom demand caution. (240 yards) long and in good condition. rapids. It begins on a big flat rock and It starts on the south shore, 45 to 70 goes up to a high spot with a fine view Black Bear Island Lake metres (50 to 75 yards) above the falls. of the rapids. A decision whether or not Black Bear Island Lake is filled with The break in the willows is not easily to run these rapids is best made from this islands. It is easy to become confused in seen until closely approached. The outlet point. navigation on this lake, so special atten­ from Black Bear Island Lake is divided by The third portage is 90 metres (100 tion should be paid to checking position a sizeable island. Birch Portage is on the yards) long. It begins on the right side, and progress. Indian rock paintings can right side of the more southern outlet. 45 metres (50 yards) above the rapids, be found on the exposed rocks and cliffs with a landing just past a large flat rock. of this lake. Trout Lake to Stack Lake The rapids at this point are divided by a There are 3 basic ways to cross Black There are 3 sets of rapids between Trout sizeable island. The start of this portage Bear Island Lake from west to east. Each Lake and Stack Lake. The first portage is is on the right side of the right outlet. route involves descending a different set 145 metres (160 yards) long, starting on The main outlet from Stack Lake is of rapids. The route recommended is the the east side of the outlet of Trout Lake, divided into left and right channels. A central one, which takes the canoeist to 70 metres (75 yards) to the right of the third channel on the extreme left appears the rapids located near the letter "c" of rapids; the start is not well marked and to be the easiest to descend. This far left the word "Black" on topographic sheet the trail angles up over an embankment. course involves 2 moderate, shallow 73P. The central rapids on Black Bear There is also a boat-hauling trail which rapids separated by a short stretch of fast Island Lake are easy to run. water. At normal water levels both are easy to run. 46

The Trout Fall, on the Churchill River (Public Archives of Canada) 47

Rock Trout Portage The left route leads to a very modest rapid Dead Lake to Trade Lake The Rock Trout Portage is 250 metres which can be run down the centre. This Dead Lake (280 yards) long, beginning on the right is followed by quiet water, and then by a Dead Lake is beautiful, with many attrac­ shore within 35 metres (40 yards) of the second easy rapid. One portage trail tive islands and shoreline campsites. At rapids. These rapids are actually a series, around the major part of the first set of the east end there are channels leading the lower part of which is split by an rapids below Mountney Lake is 200 to Hayman Lake. The current in Hayman island. The portage trail bypasses the metres (225 yards) long; it starts on the Lake is considerable but there are no whole series. Little Rock Portage is a left bank 110 metres (125 yards) above rapids; there are at least 3 outlets at the carry past the left channel of rapids. the rapids in a small quiet cove. A far east end of Hayman Lake. Be sure to shorter alternative trail exists, 110 metres select the most easterly outlet, which Mountney Lake to Dead Lake (125 yards) long, starting a few yards leads to Devil Lake via Great and Little There are 2 distinct sets of rapids separat­ above the actual rapids on the steep left Devil rapids. Do not go to Parker Lake. ing Mountney Lake from Dead Lake. The bank. To reach the relatively poor landing first set can be further subdivided into at the start of the shorter alternative, the Little Devil Portage two preliminary lesser rapids followed by canoeist must pass through some fast Little Devil Portage starts on the left a major rapid which must be portaged. water. shore about 70 metres (75 yards) above The second set of rapids is actually a The second set of rapids between the beginning of Little Devil Rapids. The complex series of modest rapids and Mountney and Dead lakes is actually a trail divides toward the end; the shorter, intervening fast water. whole series of small rapids broken by right-hand fork is to be avoided, as it On approaching the outlet from stretches of quiet water. does not take one past the last portion Mountney Lake the channel apparently of the rapids. The portage is 790 metres divides. The larger, right-hand alternative (880 yards) long. is a dead end and should be avoided. 48

The Otter Rapids Portage is 550 metres (600 yards) and in good condition. If the canoe trip is to be ended at the bridge crossing the Otter Rapids, only half the distance needs to be portaged. The trail starts on the left and shows as a break in the bank vegetation, just past a promi­ nent rock.

Stony Mountain Portage Be sure to stay close to shore and pro­ ceed carefully in locating Stony Moun­ tain and Mountain portages. This pre­ caution is necessary to avoid being car­ ried over the falls. There is another set of falls at the northeast side of Eyinew Island, so be sure not to go on the east side of the island by mistake. Stony Mountain Portage connects the eastern end of Otter Lake with the quiet water below the falls. This portage, 80 metres (90 yards) long and in excellent condition, starts on the west side of Eyinew Island, less than 90 metres (100

Churchill River near Stony Mountain Portage 49

yards) from the main rapids and falls. Mountain Lake southwest side of the channel there is a The start of the trail appears as a well- The canoeist passes many beautiful log ramp to facilitate the dragging of big defined break in the spruce and birch island campsites while travelling down boats around the falls. The foot trail on forest on the left shore. The roar of the Mountain Lake toward the community this island portage is poor. It is therefore falls is audible for a considerable distance of Stanley. The oldest church in Saskat­ recommended that those portaging above the start of the portage. chewan, begun in 1850 under the direc­ canoes on their shoulders use the better tion of Reverend Robert Hunt, is situated foot trail on the opposite side of the Mountain Portage near the water's edge in Stanley. Sup­ channel. Below the falls is a very short Mountain Portage, connecting the quiet plies can be bought at the Hudson's Bay stretch of fast water. water between the falls with the north­ Store on the southwest bank of the river west end of Mountain Lake, is 275 at Stanley. Nistowiak Lake metres (300 yards) long and in good Stanley Rapids are 5 kilometres (3 and Iskwatikan Lake enter condition. The trail commences in a small miles) below the town. The left shore to Nistowiak Lake on the southern side by cove along the southeast shore of the the north side of the island is the way to Nistowiak Falls. These falls are a few quiet between the falls, avoid the rapids southwest of the island. hundred metres from the shoreline and about 90 metres (100 yards) upstream are worth the hike to see them. from a group of buildings. The portage Stony Rapids Portage A 90-metre (100-yard) portage is shows as a break in the trees just down­ The Stony Rapids Portage connects necessary to bypass Potter Rapids and stream from 2 small islands. The landing Mountain Lake with Drope Lake. It is reach Drinking Lake. From the south­ is weedy and the trail starts up a steep 100 metres (110 yards) long. From eastern portion of Nistowiak Lake a earth bank. Mountain Lake this portage starts in­ group of buildings is visible on the south conspicuously in the grasses on the shore, just above the rapids. The landing northeast side of the channel, 90 metres is at a tourist camp dock. (100 yards) above the falls. On the 50

Drinking Lake best to continue along the narrow chan­ Keg Falls Drinking Lake has a lower shoreline and nel to a small waterfall. The portage trail The portage around Keg Falls connects fewer islands than Nistowiak Lake, and to Keg Lake begins shortly before the the east end of Keg Lake with the waters there are plenty of good rocky campsites falls on the left shore. It is 90 metres above Grand Rapids. It is 75 metres (85 along the south shore. Near the east end (100 yards) long, in good condition, yards) long. The start of this portage is of Drinking Lake is an island with rapids and easy to find. 70 metres (80 yards) to the left of the on both the north and south sides. falls. A few hundred metres below this Either way is passable, but the north is Keg Lake portage there are more rapids, which are the easier. The shores of Keg Lake are low, except divided into left and right channels by an About 1% kilometres (1 mile) below for one hill on the southwestern shore. island. The safest course is to hug the these rapids are the main rapids at the The best route along the eastern part of left side of the left channel. east end of Drinking Lake. Island Portage, Keg Lake is a channel along the south­ indicated on both sheet 73P and sheet west shore of Grieg Island. After passing Grand Rapids 73P/8 is not the way to reach Keg Lake. a little island, the main stream swings The portage around the first part of Instead, follow the 5-kilometre (3-mile) sharply to the right and is joined by a Grand Rapids is only a few metres long, channel, which detours to the north and smaller one from the east side of Grieg and runs along the south shore. The northeast just above the rapids. Im­ Island. Immediately after swinging right second portage, 600 metres (675 yards) mediately after entering the narrow north the canoeist should work to the left and long, goes around the 2 major rapids channel, an old landing spot on the east enter a little cove on the left side of the comprising the lower part of Grand shore of the channel indicates a steep, rapids. Rapids. This portage starts about one poor trail, 275 metres (300 yards) long, kilometre (1/4-mile) below the first one, which extends to below the rapids; this on the north bank, at a fairly steep rock, could be used as a portage trail, but it is 135 metres (150 yards) above the start of the rapids. These rapids are long and studded with small islands and rocks. 51

Trade Lake to Sandy Bay Trade Lake The southwest shore of Trade Lake has occasional sandy pockets with good camping spots. After passing the narrows at the northeast end of Trade Lake, and a spruce-covered island in the channel, the canoeist comes to Frog Portage, which lies to the southeast of a second, smaller channel.

At this point there is a choice of routes. One is the historic route over the Frog Portage and down the Sturgeon- Weir River. The other continues further down the Churchill to Sandy Bay. (The Sturgeon-Weir trip is described in the final chapter of this report.)

Kettle Falls A portage on the north shore starts 15 metres (20 yards) upstream from Kettle Falls. A section of fast water before the

A misty day on Trade Lake 52

portage can be run easily, but one should The northern route will be described shown on the map between the second be cautious of the falls and remain close first. The first rapid marked on the map is large island and the southern shore, is to shore. This portage trail is, in fact, a separated into 3 channels by 2 islands. merely fast water. All 5 of the severe skid assembly for boats. It is 100 metres There is a portage trail around a narrow rapids are located in the channel between (110 yards) long. Below the falls there falls, located between the most northerly the third island and the south shore. The is about ^-kilometre (%-mile) of fast island and the north, or left, shore of the first rapid is separated into 2 channels by water before a rapid which is separated mainland. This trail is 12 metres (15 a small island. This rapid is a ledge and into 4 channels by 3 islands. The safest yards) long and in good condition. There must be portaged; there is no trail, and a approach is a 25-metre (30-yard) por­ is a stretch of fast water 90 metres (100 1 5-metre (20-yard) carry across bare tage or carry-over at a flat rock ledge on yards) below this portage, which can be rock on the north is required. The second the extreme north shore of the river. No run through the much larger southern rapid marks the beginning of a long series portage trail exists. channel. The second rapid consists of 2 of rapids; there is no portage trail, but it sections of fast water. There is no portage may be run down the north side. The Iskwatam Lake trail and the safest course is to line or third rapid, a one-metre (4-foot) ledge, The channel connecting the mouth of the wade along the south shore. The third must be portaged; there is no trail, so a Reindeer River with Iskwatam Lake con­ rapid on the northern route consists of 45-metre (50-yard) carry along the north tains a rapid with 2 individual sections. 2 sections. There is no portage trail and shore is advised. The fourth rapid, im­ Both may be run on the south side. again the safest course is to line or wade mediately below the third, is separated Iskwatam Lake has 3 large islands in down the south shore. This rapid may be into 2 channels by a small island on the the middle, thereby making northern and run, but only by expert canoeists. left side of the main channel; the left side southern routes across this lake. The The southern route through Iskwatam channel can be lined or run. After this, northern route has 3 long sets of rapids Lake contains 5 rapids, rather than the 3 the fifth rapid is separated by a large which may be run by expert canoeists. marked on map 63M. The first rapid, island and can be run on the right side The southern route has 5 severe rapids, of the island and the left side of the chan­ 2 of which require portaging. nel. After the fifth rapid, the north and 53

south routes through Iskwatam Lake next set of heavy rapids. At the end of channel, is divided by a large island. The meet. A substantial current then flows this bay there is an 80-metre (90-yard) extreme right of the right channel appears to the next rapids, just upstream from portage, in good condition, leading into to be the best course. A third section of the gorge; they are shown on the map the end of another bay; this bay is about white water is located just before 63M, starting at the arrowhead of 160 metres (180 yards) long. The main Wapumon Lake at the confluence of the B.M.1048. portage around the gorge begins in a 2 channels. A course slightly to the left small cove to the left, close to the mouth of centre is the least turbulent. Iskwatam Lake to Wapumon Lake of the bay. It is 275 metres (300 yards) The channel from Wapumon Lake to Wapumon Lake is connected with long and in good condition. Immediately Wintego Lake contains 3 rapids, as Iskwatam Lake by a complex of rapids. below the gorge are powerful back- marked on map 63M. All 3 can be The portage around these is found on the eddies and whirlpools. There is also a easily run. north shore of the channel, just after the rock ledge protruding into the main first chute in the first rapid, in a small stream from the left shore, about a hun­ Wintego Lake rocky cove. The portage trail is not dred metres from the end of the portage. Wintego Lake is possibly the most ex­ apparent until one is 9 metres (10 yards) posed expanse of water to be crossed on from shore. It is 1,350 metres (1,500 Wapumon Lake this section of the Churchill. There is a yards) long and in fair condition. Between the gorge and Wapumon Lake portage around Wintego Rapids at the A more difficult but exciting route con­ there are 3 small sets of rapids. The first outlet from the lake. The start of the trail sists of 2 shorter portages. This latter set is divided by a small island, not is in a clump of low willows, in a bay on route contains a number of navigable marked on map 63M, and is best run the south shore immediately above the rapids, turbulent eddies and fast water. through the right channel. The second rapids. It is in good condition and ap­ After running the first rapids mentioned rapid, marked on 63M in the northbound proximately 60 metres (65 yards) long. above, staying to the left, the canoeist Just below this rapid is a short section of will see a bay on the left, just above the fast water. 54

Wintego Lake to Pita Lake The next set of rapids, marked as 2 rapids on 63M, is situated % of the way down the channel between Wintego and Pita lakes. Care must be taken on approaching the rapid, for it begins at a right turn on the channel from the north. No portage trail could be found. This rapid is difficult and the first portion should be lined down the extreme right. The second and third parts should be portaged or carried over the bare rock, also on the right shore. At the entrance to Pita Lake the channel is divided into 2 sections by a small island. The rapid can be run on the extreme left.

Pita Lake There are 2 routes through Pita Lake. The northern route contains only one rapid. It is separated into 3 channels by 2 islands; on each island there is a portage

In the south channel of Pita Lake 55

trail 55 or 65 metres (60 or 70 yards) The last portage is around the Island long and in fair condition. At normal Falls power dam complex. There are 2 water levels, the northeast channel can main dams. The first one is a large control be run. dam with 3 small white buildings on its The southern route through Pita Lake right side; do not enter this bay. Go is longer but very picturesque. There are instead to the power dam, one bay north 2 rapids and each can be run down the of the control dam. It can be easily rec­ middle of the channel. Neither rapid has ognized by the large gray powerhouse a portage trail. built on the dam. The portage begins in a The next rapids are found in the chan­ small bay just to the left, where the de­ nel draining Pita Lake. A large island caying hulls of 2 old barges mark the forces the channel into 2 smaller chan­ beginning of the trail. The trail is 340 nels, each with a rapid too difficult to metres (380 yards) long and is in fair run. A short carry must be taken along condition. the left shore. There are no portage trails. After the portage it is only a short paddle through some fast water to Sokatisewin Lake Sandy Bay. The first part of Sokatisewin Lake is in the form of a north-south channel, and there is a mild current in a number of places. The shore of the main body of Sokatisewin Lake is lined in some places by stumps and deadheads caused by the artificial water level produced by the Island Falls Dam. 57

4 Sturgeon-Weir River 58

Sturgeon-Weir River

Saskatchewan: Frog Portage to Maligne Lake

Length 6 to 8 days /215 kilometres (135 miles) / approximately 16 portages.

Date of survey July 1972. 59

Access and egress Maps required About the river

Canoes can be launched on Otter Lake at (N.T.S. 1:250,000 scale) The major part of this river (from Otter the Missinipe Townsite, which is 80 73P Lac la Ronge Lake to Frog Portage) is described in the kilometres (50 miles) north of the village 63L Amisk Lake Churchill River chapter. Therefore, this of Lac la Ronge, via the all-weather chapter will deal with the final section of gravel highway. The trip ends at the the Sturgeon-Weir River, from Frog Hanson Lake Road. Portage to the Hanson Lake Road bridge at Maligne Lake.

Geography The upper Sturgeon-Weir River country is an area of beautiful mixed woods, open aspen glades, tiny sand beaches, occa­ sional rock cliffs and an abundance of fish and game. The biology of this area is similar to that described in the Churchill River chapter. 60

History the area for at least 4 or 5 thousand years. This short stretch of the river served Far more recently, Pelican Narrows has as the connecting link between the been an important landmark along the Saskatchewan and Churchill rivers, and much-travelled route between Cumber­ thus was an important route for the rich land House and the Churchill River. fur trade of the 19th century. Frog Por­ Indians, voyageurs, traders, trappers, tage was originally called Portage de explorers, geologists, prospectors and Traite because in 1774-75 Joseph naturalists-all have left their marks along Frobisher met a band of Indians at this this route. Relics left behind are now on point. They were bound for Churchill display at the Northern Gateway Museum with their winter's catch, and he managed at on Amisk Lake. to trade for the furs, loading his canoes to capacity. The name Frog Portage re­ ferred to the fact that the Cree Indians left a stretched frog's skin at this location as a sign to make fun of the way the more northerly tribes of Indians dressed and stretched their beaver skins. The Pelican Narrows area has been the site of human settlement since ancient times. Archaeological evidence has re­ vealed that Indians have been inhabiting 61

The canoe trip

Frog Portage to Pelican Narrows windy weather; however, close attention About 90 metres (100 yards) below Frog Portage to map and compass is necessary to the end of this portage the canoeist comes The trail at Frog Portage is approximately avoid getting lost in dead-end channels. to the second falls. The 1 5-metre (20- 300 metres (335 yards) long, and in good The main part of Wood Lake is a beauti­ yard) portage is in good condition. It condition. It connects the Churchill River ful, if somewhat exposed, expanse of begins on a tiny rocky islet set in the at the east end of Trade Lake with the water. At its southeast end the canoeist middle of the falls. waters lying northwest of the main body enters Grassy Narrows and passes There is another portage around the of Wood Lake. From Trade Lake this through the Wood Lake . third falls in the series. It is approximately portage shows as a grassy break in the 50 metres (55 yards) long and in good low shore vegetation on the south shore Grassy Narrows condition. This short trail starts a few of the narrows. Grassy Narrows is as protected and hundred metres below the end of the last scenic as the northwest end of Wood portage, on the left or north bank, im­ Wood Lake Lake. Again, the canoeist must be careful mediately to the left of the waterfall. A The northwest part of Wood Lake offers to avoid becoming confused by dead­ small islet divides this waterfall. exceptionally beautiful scenery, with end channels. Larger boats can be hauled across all winding waterways threading past There are 3 small, closely spaced 3 of these small portage trails. islands and superb rock exposures. The waterfalls between Grassy Narrows and land is covered with birch and poplar Medicine Rapids. A 65-metre (70-yard) Medicine Rapids stands, cattails and water lilies; fur- portage trail, in excellent condition, con­ The portage trail around Medicine Rapids bearing animals, big game and waterfowl nects the waters east of Grassy Narrows is 1 5 to 25 metres (20 to 30 yards) long abound. This section is protected from to the quiet waters below the first water­ and in good condition. It connects the the open part of the lake and offers fall. The upper end of this portage starts quiet water below the 3 small falls with possibilities for exploring, even during at a rock landing spot, found on the left the northwest portion of Pelican Lake. side of a small island which divides a little waterfall. 62

The maps of this area show this trail on docks. A variety of supplies is available From Pelican Narrows the canoeist the wrong side of the river. The trail at the settlement, as well as air services, leaves Pelican Lake via the channel with actually starts on the west bank at an radio communications facilities and a the slight current, then enters Mirond unmistakable landing spot, immediately Saskatchewan Department of Natural Lake. above the rapids. Resources office. A road being built at For some distance below the lower the time of the survey trip will link Pelican Corneille Portage landing point the water may be very Narrows with the Jan Lake access road This portage connects Mirond Lake to shallow. Under these conditions, it is to the south. Corneille Lake. The trail is approximately advisable to launch canoes at the lower 160 metres (180 yards) long, and in good end of the portage and wade beside them, From Pelican Narrows, the canoe trip condition. Clearly visible pole-skids mark carefully guiding them until deeper water can be continued to any of several access its beginning, one kilometre (1/4-mile) is reached. Careful navigation is then re­ points on the Hanson Lake Road-Jan beyond the outlet of a bay at the south­ quired to avoid missing the narrow en­ Lake, or Ballantyne Bay on Deschambault east end of Mirond Lake. It is on the trance to Pelican Lake; it is very easy to Lake, for example. If the canoeist desires, north bank about 70 metres (75 yards) head into Chackukew Lake by mistake. the trip can be considerably extended above the rapids. down the Sturgeon-Weir River and across Below the portage there is a stretch of Pelican Narrows to Maligne Lake Amisk Lake to Denare Beach, not far fast water which should not cause any The community of Pelican Narrows is from , Manitoba. Canoe trip trouble. There is an old portage trail some distance along the northeast shore information and maps, for extending the around this fast water, and it is still useful of Pelican Lake. Easy landings may be trip beyond Pelican Narrows, are avail­ to the very cautious, or to people travel­ made at the sand beach or at one of the able from the Saskatchewan Department ling upstream; it may be found on the of Natural Resources in Regina. north shore of the stretch of fast water. 63

Lining rapids on the Sturgeon-Weir River (Public Archives of Canada) 64

The trip from the northwest end of Birch Portage Corneille Lake to the northeast end takes The portage around Birch Rapids is the canoeist past many good rock camp­ approximately 320 metres (360 yards) sites. There are, however, numerous long and is in good condition. It starts rocky reefs to be avoided along the north- on the east side of the rapids, some central portion of the lake, and among distance above them, on the bare rock the islands. shore of a little cove. The trail angles up over an open grassy slope before entering Dog Rapids the trees. The portage bypassing Dog Rapids be­ From this last portage, the canoeist tween Corneille Lake and the Sturgeon- travels downstream to Maligne Lake. Weir River follows a good trail, approxi­ The Hanson Lake Road bridges Maligne mately 40 metres (50 yards) long. The Lake at its central narrows. This is the outlet from Corneille Lake is at the finish point of the trip, and is about 50 northeast end, and the portage trail starts kilometres (30 miles) west of Flin Flon. on the southeast bank of the outlet. Dog Rapids is actually a waterfall which can be heard some distance away. There are good natural campsites on the small islands below the falls. Fast water will be encountered on the upper Sturgeon-Weir River, but it can usually be run along the west side without much difficulty. 65_ Further reading

Frank J.P. Crean, Report of Exploration, 1908, 1909 (La Loche, La Ronge and the Churchill Area), Department of the Interior, Ottawa, 1909. H.S.M. Kemp, Northern Trader, Ryerson Press, Toronto, 1956. Sir Alexander Mackenzie, Voyages from Montreal through the continent of to the Frozen and Pacific Oceans, 1789 and 1793, New Book Company, New York, 1902. Sigurd Olson, The Lonely Land, McClelland and Stewart, New York, 1961. Canoe information: Saskatchewan, Department of Tourism and Renewable Resources, Regina, 1974. 66 Notes 67 Notes 68 Notes

Western Canada

Outlined areas are available in this series. Shaded areas are covered by this booklet.

Soon to be available in this series: Wild Rivers: Alberta Wild Rivers: Central British Columbia Wild Rivers: Northwest Mountains Wild Rivers: Yukon Territory Wild Rivers: The Barrenlands Wild Rivers: The James Bay /Hudson Bay Region Wild Rivers: Southwestern Quebec and Eastern Ontario Wild Rivers: Quebec North Shore Wild Rivers: Labrador and Newfoundland