Indian and Affaires indiennes Northern Affairs et du Nord Wild Rivers: Parks Canada Pares Canada Saskatchewan Published by Parks Canada under authority of the Hon. Judd Buchanan, PC, MP, Minister of Indian and Northern Affairs. INA Publication No. QS-1458-000-EE-AI Design: Gottschalk+Ash Ltd. This and all other reports in the Wild Rivers series will also be available in French. Wild Rivers: Saskatchewan Wild Rivers Survey, Planning Division, Parks Canada, Ottawa, 1974 2 Indians loading their canoes at a portage, 1873 (Public Archives of Canada) 3 It is difficult to find in life any event which so effectually condenses intense nervous sensation into the shortest possible space of time as does the work of shooting, or running an immense rapid. There is no toil, no heart breaking labour about it, but as much coolness, dexterity, and skill as man can throw into the work of hand, eye, and head; knowledge of when to strike and how to do it; knowledge of water and rock, and of the one hundred combinations which rock and water can assume-for these two things, rock and water, taken in the abstract, fail as com­ pletely to convey any idea of their fierce embracings in the throes of a rapid as the fire burning quietly in a drawing-room fireplace fails to convey the idea of a house wrapped and sheeted in flames. Sir William Francis Butler (1872) 4 ©Crown Copyrights reserved Soon to be available in this series: Available by mail from Information Wild Rivers: Alberta Canada, Ottawa, K1A 0S9 Wild Rivers: Central British Columbia and at the following Information Wild Rivers: Northwest Mountains Canada bookshops: Wild Rivers: Yukon Territory Halifax Wild Rivers: The Barrenlands 1683 Barrington Street Wild Rivers: The James Bay /Hudson Montreal Bay Region 640 St. Catherine Street West Wild Rivers: Southwestern Quebec and Ottawa Eastern Ontario 171 Slater Street Wild Rivers: Quebec North Shore Toronto Wild Rivers: Labrador and Newfoundland 221 Yonge Street Winnipeg 393 Portage Avenue Vancouver 800 Granville Street or through your bookseller Price: $1.50 Catalogue No. R62-82/1974-1 Price subject to change without notice Information Canada Ottawa, 1974 5 Table of contents Foreword 7 3 Churchill River Map of Churchill River The Wild Rivers of Saskatchewan 8 Saskatchewan: lle-a-la-Crosse to Climate 8 Sandy Bay 38 Planning the trip 9 4 Sturgeon-Weir River 1 Clearwater River Map of Sturgeon-Weir River Map of Clearwater River: Saskatchewan: Frog Portage to Lloyd Lake, Saskatchewan, to Fort Maligne Lake 58 McMurray, Alberta 12 Further reading 65 2 Fond du Lac River Map of Fond du Lac River Saskatchewan: Wollaston Lake to Stony Rapids 24 7 Foreword Wild rivers are a priceless part of our The waterways were the mainstay of Parks Canada is promoting these chal­ natural heritage. These waterways, un­ the fur trade; they were the highways to lenging voyages of discovery, which touched by the march of man's techno­ the gold rushes. They did much to pro­ embrace both the past and the present. logical progress, are the arteries of our vide the economic nourishment through Wild rivers are important to Canadians land, and one of the main elements in its which Canada grew to its present stature. as integral components of our founding growth to nationhood. With the advent of modern technology, heritages. From the copper-coloured waterfalls some of our rivers were harnessed to serve However, a good deal of down-to- of the Labrador plateau, to the Canadian our newfound needs. But thousands earth information about the rivers and Shield's labyrinth of lakes and streams, of miles of waterways, and the land they their habits is needed before anyone to the glacial torrents cutting through the pass through, remain essentially un­ attempts to navigate them. It is for this western mountains-wild rivers are all touched. reason that Parks Canada decided to that remain unharnessed of those water­ Today, Canadians are gradually re­ carry out surveys of wild rivers all across ways which first made it possible for this discovering these fascinating wild rivers. the country. We are publishing the re­ huge and varied country to be explored They are seeing nature on its own terms- sults of these surveys in the present series and developed. enjoying its works from the vantage of of booklets, in order to provide a practical Long before Europeans laid eyes on its own highways. They are recreating the guide for the modern "voyageur". them, these rivers served the native adventures of the explorers; struggling But there is one other very important peoples as vital sources of both food and over the same portages as the heavily- point you must bear in mind. "Wild" transportation. Later, the rivers were to burdened "coureurs de bois"; running really is the correct adjective to describe carry the newly-arrived Europeans on rapids which once hurtled "voyageurs" many of the rivers, and only experienced other voyages of exploration and exploi­ and their precious cargoes toward the and well-equipped canoeists should en­ tation throughout the vast interior of the markets of Montreal; gently floating down ter these waters. You will find them a tre­ continent. And the settlers who followed majestic rivers which once carried mendous challenge. So it's up to you. travelled the same routes. thousands of anxious prospectors toward Our land and our rivers are waiting for the promise of gold. you to explore and rediscover them. _8 The Wild Rivers of Saskatchewan Climate The chief attractions of trips on the wild In the summer months Saskatchewan rivers of Saskatchewan are the superb enjoys an excellent recreational climate. fishing and the magnificent scenery of Temperatures in the mid-20s Celsius the northern wilderness. To these are (mid-70s Fahrenheit) can be expected added the challenge of testing one's skill daily from June until the beginning of and endurance on a long and arduous September. The days are long and sunny, canoe trip and the romance of exploring with only 5% centimetres (2% inches) an historic canoe route of the fur trade average precipitation each month. The era. nights are cool, but frost is unusual. Pre­ These are long, strenuous and isolated vailing winds come from the northwest. trips, recommended only for experienced It should be noted that ice does not river canoeists. There are long sets of usually leave the lakes in the Churchill rapids with no portage trail around them; area until the middle of May. many rapids require lining or wading through cold water. Many of the lakes to be crossed are large; unfavourable winds or weather can make such crossings diffi­ cult and dangerous-even temporarily impossible. The condition of being wind- bound for a day or days is always a possi­ bility during a trip of this length. 9 Planning the trip In planning a canoe trip allow 25 to 30 with water, smothered with sand or soil, The National Topographic Series of kilometres (15 to 20 miles) per day pad­ and stamped down firmly. All garbage maps are available from: dling. Always allow extra time and food should be packed out with you. Canada Map Office, for such unforseen events as being wind- A sturdy canoe capable of handling Room 147, 615 Booth Street, bound or delayed by rain. well in rapids, and equipment for its re­ Ottawa, Ontario If egress is to be by plane make sure pair, are essential. Aluminum canoes were K1A0E9 arrangements have been made before you used throughout the wild rivers surveys, begin the trip. and proved most practical. Be sure to check in with some respon­ Since lining and hauling are often sible agency (the RCMP or the Depart­ necessary, lengths of strong rope are ment of Northern Saskatchewan*), giv­ essential. Several pairs of high-cut run­ ing them a route and expected time of ning shoes or other sturdy footwear arrival. And don't forget to check out which can take the abuse of rocks and with them at the end of the trip. constant wetness are also needed. Permits for fires and fishing may be In the more isolated regions an emer­ required. Extreme caution should be exer­ gency survival kit is advisable. The kit cised in the use of fire. Campfires should should contain high-energy food rations, be built on rock or sand only; afterwards waterproofed matches, fishhooks and they should be extinguished completely line, and emergency rescue flares for signalling aircraft. These items should be well waterproofed; if the kit is small it could be worn on your belt. Firearms are never necessary. * Legislative Buildings, Regina, Saskatchewan. 11 1 Clearwater River 12 Clearwater River Lloyd Lake, Saskatchewan to Fort McMurray, Alberta Length 7 to 11 days/295 kilometres (185 miles) / approximately 8 to 14 portages. Date of survey August 1972. Miles 10 5 0 _20 30 13 Access and egress Maps required About the river Lloyd Lake can be reached by charter (N.T.S. 1:250,000 scale) Geography float plane from La Loche, Saskatchewan 74F Lloyd Lake The Clearwater River runs through 3 or Fort McMurray, Alberta. Alternate ac­ 74C La Loche major types of surface rock: the granite cess points are: Careen Lake, to which 74 D Waterways and gneiss of the Canadian Shield; the you must also fly; and the Methy Portage valleys cut into the limestone of the or La Loche Portage from Lac la Loche, Methy Formation; and its overlay of sand­ the headwaters of the Churchill River stone on the prairies. Over thousands of system. Fort McMurray, the point of years the river has cut a number of spec­ egress, is serviced by an all-weather road.