Issue N.31 Year 5 Jul/Aug 2020 Price: GBP: 5.00 USD: 5.00 EU: 5.00 VND: 110.000 2 3 CONTENTS

4 CONTENTS

► & Spirit reviews - 20

► Wine Personality: Allan Scott - 60

► Contact us - 77

COLUMNS

► Alfredo de la Casa: Discover New Zealand - 29

► Linh Nguyen: Marlborough - 61

WINERY REVIEWS

► Brancott - 7

► Pegasus Bay - 51

► Palliser - 67

Published by Green Talent Ltd in London, UK. © Green Talent Ltd 2006-2020. Green Talent Ltd registered in England 05905795

5 6 WINERY REVIEW: BRANCOTT

Until the 1970s, Marlborough was just another By the end of the decade, their Marlborough pretty pocket of New Zealand, considered too was selected from more than cold for anything but sheep grazing. 1100 competitors to win the prestigious Marquis de Goulaine trophy at the 21st International In 1973, the first seedlings theyre planted at the Wine & Spirit Competition. . But after two years of mixed success, they rethought tradition to take "The guys who started it all." their vines in a new direction – literally. - Oz Clarke

Thanks to the region's sunny days and crisp By 1990 the wine industry in Marlborough had nights, their grapes developed a unique and become significant enough to welcome a visit fresh flavour profile – and by 1979 from Her Majesty, Queen Elizabeth II, who Marlborough's first ever Sauvignon Blanc was planted a vine on Festival Block, home of the born. Marlborough Food and Wine Festival since 1987. The eighties got off to a good start, with their first release Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc That same year saw the appointment of a new winning Gold at the 1980 New Zealand Easter cellar hand, Patrick Materman, who would go Show. on to become Chief Winemaker and lead the exploration into new expressions of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. In 1982, their first shipment of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc was shared beyond their borders, as it headed for the UK.

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10 Their 1996 Marlborough was voted organic range, Living Land, and in 2011, the International Wine of the Year and winemaker Brancott Estate Cellar Door and Restaurant Andy Frost was named White Winemaker of the opened its doors. Year at the London International Wine Challenge. After releasing the first ever vintage of Marlborough Sauvignon Gris, they launched Today, Andy heads up their Wine Innovation Brancott Estate Chosen Rows, their finest age- programme, drawing on his vast experience to worthy Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. develop new expressions of Marlborough. They also released the first vintage of Flight, a Eleven years after joining as a cellar hand, fresh take on Sauvignon Blanc that's naturally Patrick Materman was named New Zealand lighter in alcohol. Winemaker of the Year by Winestate Magazine. Their range of Sauvignon Blanc now In 2006, Brancott Estate planted the first includes sparkling, organic, oak-influenced, Sauvignon Gris vines in Marlborough, an naturally low-alcohol, age-worthy and late- ancient that has faded into obscurity harvest wines. until a few vines were found and transplanted to New Zealand. All the while, their signature Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc continues to hold its own, with Proving to be as well adapted to Marlborough a constant stream of awards and accolades as its near cousin, Sauvignon Blanc, the first from around the world. Sauvignon Gris was released in 2009. The following year, Brancott Estate released its

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14 It’s all about place. And they believe their place it needs constant care. is special. They see and celebrate a “moutereness” in their wines. Their vines are planted in deep clay gravel soils, laid down by ancient, long melted Nelson’s Moutere Hills are sited in the centre of glaciers. These kaolinitic clay soils have a the northern tip of the South Island of New naturally low fertility and a sandy loam topsoil Zealand. Mountain ranges to the east, south with an ever expanding organic matter content. and west provide a rain shadow effect, while Tasman Bay to the north ensures a maritime They have a great water holding capacity which climate. allows us to dry farm their vines through the sunny Nelson summer. Their home plantings spill down a gentle north- facing slope overlooking a side branch of the They compost their grape skins and seeds and Moutere Valley. The valley floor is home to hop return them back to the vineyard floor to boost gardens, orchards, berry farms and new soil biodiversity and complete the nutrient cycle. . They have planted their vineyards on selected Nelson often has the highest sunshine hours in north facing slopes, embracing the “warm site in the country; summer growing months are warm a cool climate” effect. and relatively dry, with the possibility of rain increasing towards Autumn. Night temperatures These slopes also act as frost protection, cool markedly towards vintage, but damaging draining cold air from the vineyard down to the frosts are rare. valley floor.

Great wines can only come from healthy soils. Healthy soil is their greatest vineyard asset. And

15 16 Worms are the unseen workhorses in their contribute organic matter to the soil. vineyard, scavenging organic matter such as To quote soil ecologist Dr Emmanuel leaves and grass and breaking it down, aerating Bourguignon when he visited some years back the soil as they go. ..“I have always loved your wines … and now I can see why”. Their excrement feeds an army of soil microbes which continue the good work, producing This comment was made while he inspected the nutrients suitable for the vine to use, building up roots down at four metres soil structure and keeping harmful pathogens at bay. The Mendoza clone with its firm acid and high extract provides the foundation for their Moutere Mycorrhizal fungi on the vine roots hugely Chardonnay. increase the vine’s ability to pick up these nutrients (and water), and in return they get to New clonal material is consistently being feed on sugars produced by the vine. They just evaluated. Clone 548 now joins clones 15 and love that symbiosis. 8021 in playing minor but important roles in Rosie’s Block, alongside the backbone of To keep these organisms working they need to Mendoza. maintain good levels of organic matter in the soil. Here at Neudorf, soil organic matter is Pinot Noir is notoriously genetically variable and enhanced by the presence of a permanent a number of clones have been evaluated. Clone inter-row sward, mulched prunings and the 5 and 777 form the basis of both their Moutere return of composted winery waste. and Tom’s Block Pinot Noir. These are assisted by clones 667, 113, 114 and 115. Inter row herbs and grasses provide plant and insect species diversity, reduce plant vigour and

17 All new plantings are carefully considered. Vineyard management is driven by the desire Organic viticulture revolves around matching a for ripe flavours with balanced acidity and site’s features with the right variety, clone and concentrated fruit. rootstock combination. Vine density ranges from 1667 vines/ha in their All vines are grafted onto a mixture of 37 year old Moutere Mendoza to 4545 vines/ha rootstocks. The all-rounder of rootstocks 3309 on some close planted Mendoza at Rosie’s is extremely resilient on their clay soils and the Block. ever popular SO4 is bringing some vigour back into the blocks that were affected by conversion Low production (1.5kg per vine for Pinot Noir, to organics. 2kg/vine for aromatics and 2.5kg/vine for Chardonnay) helps achieve the quality of fruit to With a maritime climate it is essential to create long-lived, intense but elegant wines. maintain an open canopy to allow sunlight and air to penetrate, reducing the pressure of Dry farming means the mature grapes get only disease. the irrigation that Mother Nature sees fit to give. This aspect of struggle requires the vine’s roots Their vineyard canopy design includes single to search deep for water, providing increased and double cane vertically shoot positioned drought resistance and greater expression of (VSP) vines, creating a thin, upright canopy that the native terroir. intercepts as much sunlight as possible. Their older vines now have roots spreading To balance vigour in some of their blocks, they through the virgin Moutere Clay-Gravels to a are trialling spur pruning, a method of retaining depth of four plus metres. a permanent fruiting cordon with two-bud fruiting spurs.

18 19 Billaud Simon Chablis 2018, France

All of the parcels at Domaine Billaud-Simon are planted within a two kilometre radius, on the left and right banks of the Serein, in the heart of this historical appellation.

The Domaine currently counts four Grands Crus: Les Clos, Vaudésir, Les Preuses and Les Blanchots as well as four Premiers Crus: Montée de Tonnerre, Fourchaume, Mont de Milieu and Les Vaillons.

It also produces wines from Petit Chablis and Chablis, including the “Tête d’Or”.

his prestigious cuvée is made from a blend of the village’s highest quality parcels which are situated right next to the best Premiers Crus and Grands Crus.

Billaud-Simon’s exceptional quality vieilles vignes (old vines) are carefully tended to and enhanced by the domaine’s team of winemakers.

Peach, banana and citrus on the nose. Smooth elegant palate.

Ideal with oysters and seafood

9POIN0 TS 20 Envidia Cochina Albarino 2016, Rias Baixas, Spain.

The vineyards belonging to Adega Familiar Eladio Pineiro are located throughout the Salnés Valley. They average thirty years old and have been in transition to biodynamics for more than eight years. After fermentation, Eladio selected the upper part of the casks with higher fruit ratios (Tête de Cuvée). It was then left aging on fine lees with weekly batonage for six months. It was later blended with the addition of 15% of the previous vintage (2012) aimed at Frore de Carme (which was left aging on fine lees with weekly bâtonage for one year, plus three further months on lees of the harvest of 2013, plus a further three month period maturing in stainless steel cask). Bottled in May 2014. Light amber colour as you would expect from a wine aged on lees, as this albarino is. On the nose you will enjoy the pear compote, jam and the usual citrus from best albarinos, but this is something different, great. Smooth and delicate palate, screaming finesses. Citrus, white flowers and mineral touches, a real pleasure, very easy to drink and enjoy with good complexity and still keeping great acidity with ageing potential, but better to drink now. Ideal with oysters, seafood, salads, and amazing with white fish like cod or grouper.

9POIN3 TS 21 Casar de Burbia Godello 2015, Bierzo, Spain

This wine comes from iconic winery Casar de Burbia in the heart of Bierzo, and as with the rest of their wines, it is a real gem.

The nose is a beautiful blend between peach, apricot, limes and lemons, intense but subtle, really amazing.

On the palate this wine is pure luxury: smooth and velvety with the right acidity. Citrus and white flowers dominate the palate, with a very long pleasant aftertaste.

Ideal paired whit white fish, seafood, and oysters, but also with chicken dishes and white pasta.

I am usually rather reluctant to age white wine, but Isidro, Casar’s winemaker told me that this wine ages well, and here we are five years later with an amazing wine that could be aged even further

9POIN3 TS 22 Flore de Carme 2016, Albarino, Rias Baixas. Spain.

Ok I should have drunk this bottle long time ago, as almost every albarino is made to be drunk fresh within a couple of years of bottling, but I love to experiment.

This particular albarino, one of the best I have tried, was superb while pricey the first times I tried, it is kept double time on the lees giving it the characteristic oxidative flavours, which I love.

I must say that the wine in 2018 was on its way down, as it is reflected on the points, but still an amazing wine.

The nose is still fresh with lots of citrus and still good minerality. Both are repeated on the palate, which sadly has lost a bit of the freshness but keeps the white flowers and the hints of herbs.

Beautiful with oysters, salads, seafood, paella, and white fish.

9POIN0 TS 23 Weingut Prechtl 2014 Gruner Veltliner, Austria

This aged Gruner Veltliner from Austria is a bomb, a nd it just gets better and better as it ages, and yes, it is white!

The vineyard estate is located in Zellerndorf near Retz. They have particularly specialised in type of vine Grüner Veltliner.

Half of it is exported to ten countries worldwide. Old clones which are the basis for a special characteristic of the Grüner Veltliner.

Handcraft and sustainable cultivation are key. They fertilise with droppings from bulls and entirely go without herbicides. Cool nights and hot days make for the wine’s aroma, strength and elegance.

Pepper from the Weinviertel! Reminiscent of exotic fruits. Wonderfully crisp, juicy acidity, unbelievable drinking flow, enormous freshness and many spicy peppery aromas.

Even after 6 years still good acidity.

I paired with smoked duck breast and it was a blast.

9POIN2 TS 24 Catena Malbec 2016 Argentina

This wine comes from grapes cultivated at altitude. From the hands of iconic Bodegas Catena, one of the pioneers of quality wines in Argentina.

Nicolás and Laura Catena have worked tirelessly in the discovery, identification and development of key microclimates in the high altitude wine country of Mendoza.

Their Malbec uses this work and combines grapes from various vine plots to create a unique profile of aromas.

Elegantly structured, and showing ripe blackberry and blackcurrant fruit flavours and plenty of peppery spice.

The finish has distinct chocolate notes and a great balance with soft tannins.

Ideal with beef and pork dishes, but also great with mature cheeses.

9POIN1 TS 25 Radford Dale 2015, South Africa

Both vineyards that produce this exceptional Syrah are planted on soils derived from granite. The older of the two vineyards (now 24 years old) is rooted in a particularly rocky variety of decomposed granite known locally as “Koffie Klip”. The second is on a crunchy, less decomposed granite. This imparts to the wine an elegant and refined character while the temperate Summers of Stellenbosch allow the grapes to ripen slowly and evenly, allowing for depth of flavour and great balance. The winter that preceded the 2013 harvest was rather dry but very cold, this meant even budding and slow but steady growth of the canopies. During the ripening period nights were quite cool as opposed to the high day time temperatures experienced during January 2014. This meant that the frui tripened with much intensity and concentration. A blend of black and red ripe fruits, with hints of liquorice in both nose and palate. This long lasting wine, is a pleasure to drink. Great paired with red meats and mature cheeses.

9POIN1 TS 26 27 28 By ALFREDO DE LA CASA

DISCOVER NEW ZEALAND

New Zealand’s wine producing history extends the country has also garnered international back to the founding of the nation in the 1800s. acclaim.

But it was the introduction to Marlborough’s By world standards New Zealand’s production astonishing Sauvignon Blanc in the 1980s that capacity is tiny, accounting for less than 1% of saw explode onto the total volume. international scene, courtesy of world beating performances in international competitions and And though the average price tag for a New rapturous critical reviews. Zealand wine is a reflection of its desirability, few would question its ability to deliver excellent And while Marlborough retains its status as the value for money. one of the world’s foremost wine producing regions, the quality of wines from elsewhere in

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The earliest history of planting vines (vitis winegrowers thought that the vinifera hybrid vinifera) in New Zealand dates back to 1819 wasn’t suitable for growth in New Zealand and when Samuel Marsden, a missionary to New decided to replace them with the hardier Zealand, arrived in Kerikeri, Northland with 100 European American hybrid vines. Unfortunately, vines that he went on to plant at the mission even though these vines were more resistant to station. disease the quality of grapes was inferior.

In the 1840s, British resident, James Busby It wasn’t until the 1960s that the vitis vinifera made the first recorded wine in New Zealand. vines made a comeback in New Zealand and high quality wines were again produced. Shortly The grapes were from a small vineyard that he after there was also a switch from fortified wines planted at Waitangi and it was his enthusiasm to table wines in New Zealand. for grape growing that went on to encourage others to follow in his footsteps. In 1983, Müller Thurgau was the most planted white grape variety and There were a number of significant immigrants the most planted red variety. Since then, there to New Zealand from Europe that went on to set has been a definite change in grape varieties up vineyards in different regions across the planted in New Zealand since 1990. country. Sauvignon Blanc is now the most widely They each contributed in their own right to the planted white variety with Chardonnay following very early establishment of vineyards and in second place. Other white varieties such as winemaking in New Zealand. Pinot Gris, and Gewürztraminer have dramatically increased their production levels During the 1940s, phylloxera destroyed many and lesser known varieties such as Viognier are vineyards in New Zealand and some now being grown in small quantities.

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36 A surge in production of Pinot Noir has meant And with growing regions extending 1,600 km this variety has taken over the role of the most (1,000 miles) — from latitude 36° South in the widely planted red variety in New Zealand. subtropical north to latitude 46° South in the mountainous south (the most southerly Syrah is another red variety that has grown vineyards in the world) — regional diversity is considerably, with Merlot plantings strong, dramatic, enabling a striking array of wine though no longer growing varieties and styles to flourish.

There are ten main wine growing regions in New Zealand’s second largest wine region, New Zealand with each showing great diversity sunny Hawke’s Bay has been an abundant in climate and terrain. source of fine wine since 1851; its well established wine tourism trail also showcases No region is more than 130km (80 miles) from the region’s Art Deco architecture (mainly in the sea and the proximity of vineyards to the Napier city) and artisan producers. ocean has a pronounced effect on the character of New Zealand wines. Hawke’s Bay’s benign climate and high sunshine have long established the region as Mild, sunny summers and marked differences ideal for fruit growing. between day and night temperatures in many regions slow the ripening of the grapes and Vines were fist planted in 1851 by Marist allow them to develop pure, intense varietal missionaries (their legacy is Taradale’s historic flavours. Mission Winery) and Hawke’s Bay enjoys a significant international reputation for producing This is the foundation of New Zealand wines’ some of the country’s best wines, red and elegance and power, and helps explain their white. famed balance, structure and food friendliness.

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40 A relatively large and diverse region capable of long, narrow shape means there is nowhere producing a wide range of varieties to a very further than 50 kilometres from the ocean, and high standard, Hawke’s Bay is best known for its northerly latitude delivers as close to a its Red Blends and Chardonnay but aromatic subtropical climate as is found in New Zealand. whites are consistently good and Syrah is incredibly impressive. Beyond this, Northland’s soils, vineyard aspects and microclimates are all unique, The climate and lengthy growing season also creating a diverse collection of wine styles from allows regular production of successful dessert a wide range of varieties. styles. New varieties are continually trialled. Vineyards are generally clustered in the coastal The numerous wineries and vineyards areas around Whangarei, the Bay of Islands encompass both large multi-regional entities and Kaitaia, taking advantage of both the flatter and tiny family-owned boutique producers; all coastal land and tempering sea breezes. share a commitment to making great wine. Northland has a long history of winegrowing, With its lengthy history and verdant, productive with the country’s first vines planted in the Bay landscape, Hawke’s Bay is home to an of Islands in 1819 by the missionary Reverend outstanding wine tourism culture and offers a Samuel Marsden. Plantings remained relatively wide variety of cellar door experiences as well small until the late 1800s when the Croatian as regular food and wine festivals. gumdiggers arrived, establishing New Zealand’s earliest wine industry, one focused on As its name implies, Northland is New a strong trade in fortifid wines - a style well Zealand’s most northerly region, with pockets suited to Northland’s production of ripe, richly of winegrowing stretching from Karikari in the flavoured grapes. north, to Mangawhai in the south. Northland’s

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44 Many present day producers across New case basis. Zealand can still trace their roots back to Northland. Northland’s tropical fruited However, heavy clay loam and free-draining Chardonnays, popular Pinot Gris and intensely volcanic soils are relatively common throughout flavoured Viogniers are leading the region’s the region, with free draining soils particularly white wine growth. prized for vineyards in a region with abundant rainfall. A variety of red wines are produced canvassing spicy Syrah, stylish Cabernet and Merlot Subsoils are generally compact clays. blends, peppery Pinotages and even the Maintaining balanced growth in Northland’s mild seldom-seen Chambourcin Northland’s climate is a priority for producers when vineyards are planted on a highly variable establishing vineyards. range of soil types, perhaps not surprising for a region encompassing such a long, narrow and The other key feature of Northland soils is the diverse topography. legacy of the lush subtropical climate’s generous plant growth and historically Northland has more than 220 soil types, a extensive kauri forests, which have provided significant increase compared to other New many areas with deep layers of acidic leaf litter Zealand regions which typically have around and low fertility, though these are not typically 20. soils used for vineyard plantings

Owing to the small number and relatively far- Auckland is A large, important and very diverse flung locations of producers, sub regions are region, home to New Zealand’s biggest wine not yet clearly defied within Northland, thus it companies and tiny boutique vineyards, both of can be difficult to generalize about the impact which produce some of its finest wines. of soil on the wines other than on a case by

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Spread across a large, geographically diverse common factors; volcanic, clay-rich soils, a area, the Auckland wine region encompasses temperate maritime climate and significantly, the distinctive vineyard island of Waiheke, the proximity to New Zealand’s largest, most historic West Auckland subregions of Kumeu, economically important city. Huapai and Waimauku, and stretches north to the coastal enclave of Matakana, and south to Home to powerful, intense reds – Red blends in Clevedons rolling hills. the north and on Waiheke Island (which also has thrilling Syrah) – plus world class Award-winning Gewürztraminer is even crafted Chardonnay and fie Aromatics, the modern next to Auckland International Airport. Auckland wine industry continues to shine.

These areas were established in the early Auckland’s extensive volcanic history has 1900s by Croatian, Lebanese and English overlain its ancient bedrock with much younger winemakers whose legacy and names endure material; millennia have then weathered this today; Babich, Brajkovich, Corbans, Delegats, away to predominately clay soils, though and Nobilo to name just a few. layered sandstone, mudstone and wind-blown silt are also common. While Aucklands current acreage is considerably smaller, magnitude remains in its All subregions can vary significantly and while collective experience, with presence of generally soils provide quite poor drainage, significant wine companies and not least, management and clone selection have enabled exciting, high quality wines over its length and the production of premium wines. breadth. Great thanks and credits for pictures and Whilst difficult to generalise across such varied text to nzwine/New Zealand Wine terroirs, the subregions are united by a few

48 49 50 WINERY REVIEW: PEGASUS BAY

The Donaldson family have been immersed in practice in the evening and after his shifts at the the wine industry since the early 1970s and public hospital. were pioneers of local grape growing and wine making. He also started writing a wine column in the local paper (that he continued for over 20 years) Associate Professor and Consultant and was a judge in numerous wine shows Neurologist, Ivan Donaldson, first became around the globe. interested in wine when his girlfriend at the time, Christine, gave him a book simply called - In 2012 Ivan was awarded an Order of Merit for ‘Wine’. his contribution to Neurology.

Penned by English industry legend, Hugh By the mid 1980s Ivan and Chris had decided Johnson, the book started Ivan on an exciting there was definitely a future for wine making in journey, that has never stopped. Canterbury.

After travelling to explore the wine regions of They went on to plant Pegasus Bay with the Europe, Ivan returned home to plant one of the help of their four sons, who have all ended up first vineyards of modern times in Canterbury… working in key roles within the business. and to marry Christine, who has been an integral part of the Pegasus Bay story. Ivan, now retired from medicine, continues to oversee viticulture while Chris’s ‘happy place’ is The first vineyard was a hobby with Ivan making in the winery’s extensive grounds, now wine in the garage at home on the weekends, beautifully well-established thanks to her careful in-between seeing patients at his private planting over the last 30 years.

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Chris is also passionate about opera and the Marketing Manager and spends much of his arts. She has embraced the local opera scene time trotting the globe to promote the wines to for many years, including singing in the chorus around 20 countries where Pegasus Bay is for a number of operatic productions. distributed.

There has been many a concert held at the His wife Belinda, is the Manager of the winery’s winery’s natural amphitheatre and a reserve multi-award winning restaurant. range of wines have been dedicated to Chris’s love of opera. Michael was the last son to join the business after his return from overseas, finding a natural Their eldest son, Matthew, is Winemaker and fit as Local Sales Manager, while the youngest graduated with an oenology degree and a son Paul, who has an MBA, is the winery’s postgraduate diploma in viticulture from General Manager. Roseworthy College, in Australia. Pegasus Bay is proud to be entirely family- He has worked numerous vintages in other owned. parts of the world, with a particular focus on Burgundy, and in 2020 would have had his 28th Planted in 1985 the Pegasus Bay vineyard is vintage at Pegasus Bay. largely un-grafted producing ultra-low yields of grapes per vine with loose bunches and small Matthew’s wife Di, assists with winery logistics berries. and systems. Tucked up under the lee of the Teviotdale Another son, Edward (a trained chef) is Range, the vineyard gets maximum protection

54 55 from the Pacific’s easterly breezes, while heat long autumns. To the west, lie the Southern summation during the day is promoted by the Alps (Main Divide) from where the region’s smooth stones and gravels left behind by an notorious hot nor’west winds derive. ’s ancient river bed washed down from the sheltered positionand close proximity to the Southern Alps. sea, provide warm days, cool nights and a dry autumn, resulting in a very prolonged ripening The soil is free draining and of low fertility, period for the grapes. resulting in naturally reduced vine vigour. This promotes intense flavour development and This produces optimally ripened, high quality, optimal ripeness, while retaining good natural flavourful grapes, which fully express the acidity. qualities of this unique setting. A spirited cluster of progressive thinking wine An extensive team of experienced vineyard staff producers, proudly call this unique region home. allow operations such as shoot thinning, crop Pegasus Bay is an accredited member of the thinning, bunch exposure and fruit selection to NZWG sustainable viticulture programme and be carried out meticulously. Vine age also plays firmly believe in the principles of using natural an important role. methods to counteract pests and diseases, rather than the application of unnecessary The Waipara Valley is in North Canterbury, on pesticides and herbicides. the east coast of the South Island in Aotearoa, New Zealand and a scenic 45 minute drive “A deep respect for the land with a long term north of Christchurch. view towards vine and soil health typifies the Donaldson Family’s approach to grape growing. Waipara has an ideal climate for grape growing, with high sunshine hours, hot dry summers and

56 57 Pegasus Bay is a proud supporter of the Greening Waipara Valley project.

Our aim is to grow grapes of the highest quality, which fully express the features of the vineyard and to handle these with the utmost respect.

Minimal intervention at all stages from vine to bottle typifies our approach.

We believe in sustainable viticultural management, low crop levels, minimal handling of fruit during processing and gentle pressing.

We allow wines to go through natural malolactic fermentation and clarification by settling, without the use of fining agents.

We aspire to capture the unique flavours of the vineyard in our wine with texture, length and drinkability being trademarks of our house style.

Pegasus Bay wines are made with estate grown fruit from our North Canterbury home vineyard.”

58 59 WINE PERSONALITY: Allan Scott

60 Marlborough

By Linh Nguyen

New Zealand’s flagship wine region, which in combination with Sauvignon Blanc, put the country on the international wine stage. Much more than just Sauvignon though, Marlborough offers increasing depth in both varieties and terroir.

Early pioneers fist planted in 1873 in the Ben Morven Valley, with further vineyards established through to the 1960s. There was then a lull until grapes were again place with the hole in the cloud’ - reflecting the planted in 1973, despite stiff opposition from outstanding protection offred by the topography. local farming and forestry interests. The Wairau River bisects the valley west to Nowadays, viticulture is emphatically dominant, east, with the Richmond Ranges to the north with over 20,000 hectares of vines and medium sized foothills to the south. (approximately two thirds of the national total) under the care of wine producers of all sizes. The auspicious combination of a cool yet high sunshine climate, low rainfall and free-draining, Consistently ranking as one of New Zealand’s moderately fertile soil produces uniquely vivid sunniest and driest regions, Maori referred to wines across a wide range of varieties and the Wairau Valley as ‘Kei puta te Wairau’ - ‘The styles.

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64 Alongside the increasing range of varieties, the SOUTHERN VALLEYS diverse soils and meso-climates are revealing sub regions, and it is within these that Wrapping around the surrounding hills the Marlborough’s exciting future lies. Omaka, Fairhall, Brancott, Ben Morvan and Waihopai Valleys make up this important Key to Marlborough’s success is its ancient subregion. glacial deep, free-draining, stony soils. The extensive braided river system left a Soils and meso-climates vary but tend to be threaded legacy of stony sandy loam over very heavier with more clay than Wairau and it gets deep gravels. Rapaura is stoniest; lower Wairau cooler and drier further south into the valleys. A has more loam and thus water retention. Clay broad range grown according to vineyards’ is prevalent in the Southern Valleys, assisting individual strengths with some particularly good Pinot Noir. Awatere is more fragmented, with Pinot Noir and Aromatics. gravelly silt loams and wind blown loess. AWATERE VALLEY WAIRAU VALLEY The most geographically distinct subregion, Old riverbed and riverbank soils, diverse lying south of the Wairau Valley and stretching aspect and rainfall give many meso-climates inland from the sea, the valley climbs towards within this subregion. Broadly, it covers cooler, the inland Kaikoura Ranges. Cooler, drier, drier inland sites, barren stony, early ripening windier and often with a degree of elevation, sites to sea breeze moderated coastal sites. sites with typically lower yields produce bright, Soils are more gravelly to the north nearer the aromatic Pinot Noir and dramatic, distinctive riverbed. Within this, wines reflect the individual Sauvignons which are attracting increasing vineyard and producer strengths but all have international acclaim. the hallmark pure fruit intensity and body. Photos & text credit: NZWINE,

65 66 WINERY REVIEW: PALLISER

Palliser is one of New Zealand’s premier wine The Martinborough Terrace, where they grow brands. They are some kind of mavericks who our grapes, is a small but very special area of gambled on taking farmland and turning into land located at the southern end of the North vineyards. Island.

A mad idea that turned out to be a ground Framed by the Ruamahanga and Huangarua breaking idea. You can’t be afraid to push the Rivers whic boundaries and produce great unique wines, That’s why Palliser Estate Wines are now h helped carve out the Terrace centuries ago. known and enjoyed around the world. The land is a stony silt loam overlaying varying depths of ancient free draining river gravels. Just a small team of people so we give the wine The climate is dry with frosts and strong winds the undivided attention. When they bottle it they challenging us at every turn but when the know the next time it will be opened someone harvest comes all the hard work is more than will be waiting to be impressed. That’s why worth it. they’re dedicated to making our wine great. We own seven vineyards on the Terrace. When everyone else looked at the land around Although they are within walking distance of here and thought “this’ll be a good place to each other they are all produce quite distinctive graze sheep” they thought “No. This’ll be a wine styles reflecting the differences in soils great place to make wine.” Lamb chops are and micro climates. It’s a perfect combination okay but wouldn’t you rather have a glass of that, for us, creates perfect wines. award-winning wine? They know which they’d rather have.

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Om Santi Vineyard Our southernmost vineyard with heavier soils most suited to Sauvignon Blanc and A short walk from the winery vineyard to where Chardonnay. the soils are stonier and the site is cooler. This vineyard is destined to become one of the The Sauvignon Blanc from this vineyard put us greats. on the map when it won the Sauvignon Blanc class at the Air New Wine Awards. Re-planted in 2005, this 9 hectare vineyard has half of it in Chardonnay the balance Pinot Gris Planted with 10 hectares of Sauvignon Blanc, and Riesling. All the wine from this site makes 1.7 hectares of Chardonnay and 5 hectares of the Estate label. Pinot Noir.

It has a minerality and stone fruit quality that will The Pinot Noir is planted right on the edge of remind you more of Chablis than Montrachet. the terrace and hence more free draining. In This vineyard was converted to organic warmer years the Abel clone has often made management in 2018. the Estate label.

Clouston Vineyard Wharekauhau Vineyard

Some of our oldest vines are planted in this Adjoining Pinnacles but more elevated vineyard dating back to 1990. comprising 6.5 hectares of some of Martinborough’s finest Pinot Noir country. It might be our oldest but it still has a lot of tricks up its sleeve. A truly special site devoted entirely to Pinot Noir

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and planted in 5 clones in 1998. When they are range but in recent times some of the Pinot has all blended together a classic Pinot Noir surprised us and muscled it’s way into the emerges with great depth and complexity. Estate range.

This vineyard is one of the greats with the wine Winery Vineyard made from it currently going into the Estate range and our first ever Single Vineyard wine in On the western edge of the Terrace, 2.2 2018. hectares planted in 2000, predominantly Pinot Noir split evenly between the Abel clone and A special site that produces excellent wines. MV6 an Australian clone that shows potential. This site was converted to organic management in 2017 and is on-schedule to achieve Biogrow Early days for this vineyard but the wines are organic certification in 2020. showing nice aromatic charm and it tastes pretty damn good too. East Base Vineyard Like the Wharekauhau vineyard, this site was This is the biggie. Our largest and most eastern converted to organic management in 2017 and vineyard. Located back from the Terrace edge is on-schedule to achieve Biogrow organic the soils are slightly heavier giving way to more certification by 2020. savoury and textural notes in the wines. Palliser Vineyard Planted in 2002, 19.5 hectares of Pinot Noir, 4.5 hectares of Sauvignon Blanc and 1.7 hectares Adjoining the Clouston Vineyard to the north of Pinot Gris. comprising 5 hectares of Sauvignon Blanc and 2.6 hectares of Chardonnay. Planted in 1995 The wines generally go into the Pencarrow with subsequent re plants situated on heavier

74 75 soils giving great weight and depth to the wines. The first people who came here were an Pinnacles Vineyard interesting collection.

On the northern edge of the Terrace and a north Pioneers up for the challenge of breaking a facing slope. A 4 hectare vineyard with the rugged, yet stunningly beautiful, land that majority of production going into our Methode seemed hell-bent on breaking them instead. Traditional wine. Dreamers who saw nothing but opportunity in a Planted with Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and new place. And mavericks who saw a chance to approximately 1 hectare of Riesling vines break away from the establishment and do planted in 2016. The north facing slope things their own way. combined with some fine clay in the soil profile has us all very excited about this sites future Here at Palliser Estate we’re a mix of all of potential. Also we have spotted an area ideally these elements. We’re Pioneers, Dreamers and suited to Syrah so planning is underway to Mavericks. Our history goes back decades. make this a reality. Something to look forward to Palliser’s first grapes were harvested in 1989.” in the future.

“The world tends to forget it but it wasn’t that long ago people didn’t even believe New Zealand existed.

It wasn’t on any official maps and it was vast distance to travel just on the off-chance there might be something there.

76 Why, Why, Why? We love food and wine, we want to share what is good with you!

We are a group of wine and food lovers, wine and hospitality trainers, and wine and food writ - ers, who decided to get together and create Wine and Restaurants for three reasons:

1.- Our passion for food and wine, and willingness to share.

2.- Too tired of the restrictions of current life style magazines in Vietnam, whose sole target is money, many of which (if not all) do not do restaurant reviews unless restaurants and hotels advertise, or promise advertising (forget about the claims of independence and mystery visits, our writers used to write for them, we do know!).

3.- Growing interest in Wine in Vietnam, but not dedicated media.

WE ARE LOOKING FOR CONTRIBUTORS IN ENGLISH AND/OR VIETNAMESE

Are you passionate about food and wine, and like writing?

Email us: [email protected]

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