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Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907)
Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) BuYun Chen Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of Arts and Sciences COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY 2013 © 2013 BuYun Chen All rights reserved ABSTRACT Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) BuYun Chen During the Tang dynasty, an increased capacity for change created a new value system predicated on the accumulation of wealth and the obsolescence of things that is best understood as fashion. Increased wealth among Tang elites was paralleled by a greater investment in clothes, which imbued clothes with new meaning. Intellectuals, who viewed heightened commercial activity and social mobility as symptomatic of an unstable society, found such profound changes in the vestimentary landscape unsettling. For them, a range of troubling developments, including crisis in the central government, deep suspicion of the newly empowered military and professional class, and anxiety about waste and obsolescence were all subsumed under the trope of fashionable dressing. The clamor of these intellectuals about the widespread desire to be “current” reveals the significant space fashion inhabited in the empire – a space that was repeatedly gendered female. This dissertation considers fashion as a system of social practices that is governed by material relations – a system that is also embroiled in the politics of the gendered self and the body. I demonstrate that this notion of fashion is the best way to understand the process through which competition for status and self-identification among elites gradually broke away from the imperial court and its system of official ranks. -
Narada Foundation Annual Report
Legal Consultant (Pro Bono) : JunHe LLP Foster Civil Society A Fair and Just Society Where Every Heart Carries Hope A / Room ����, Tower C, Vantone Center, No. � Chaowai Street, Chaoyang District, Beijing, ������, China T / ���-��������-��� Narada Foundation E / [email protected] P.C / ������ Annual Report http://www.naradafoundation.org /01-02 /03-05 /06 Foreword About Narada Foundation Board of Directors Mission and Vision Board Members and Supervisors ����-���� Strategic Plan /08-47 /48-51 /52-53 Programmes Audit Report Our Team Sector Development Scaling Up Social Innovation ○ China Effective Philanthropy Multiplier Social Enterprise and Impact Investment Other Programmes ○ Ginkgo Fellows Programme ○ New Citizen Programme ○ Quantitative Historical Research Project ○ Funding Leping Social Entrepreneur Foundation XU Yongguang ,Chair of the Board of Directors PENG Yanni , CEO In Chinese culture, twelve years is a full cycle in life and history. Narada Foundation passed its ���� marked the third year of Narada Foundation’ s ����-���� strategic plan. We have furthered our first �� years in ����. three work areas, namely sector development, scaling up social innovation (China Effective Philanthropy Multiplier) and social enterprise and impact investment, in all aspects, addressing In the past �� years, Narada Foundation upheld its mission‘ foster civil society’ and strove to fulfil the needs and underlying problems of grassroots non-profit development, and accomplished our its vision‘ a fair and just society where every heart carries hope’ . Narada has been growing and original goals set at the planning stage. strengthening philanthropy infrastructure and improving the non-profit and philanthropy ecosystem in China together with our non-profit partners, an example of ownership and The China Effective Philanthropy Multiplier continued to perform efficiently in ����. -
Official Colours of Chinese Regimes: a Panchronic Philological Study with Historical Accounts of China
TRAMES, 2012, 16(66/61), 3, 237–285 OFFICIAL COLOURS OF CHINESE REGIMES: A PANCHRONIC PHILOLOGICAL STUDY WITH HISTORICAL ACCOUNTS OF CHINA Jingyi Gao Institute of the Estonian Language, University of Tartu, and Tallinn University Abstract. The paper reports a panchronic philological study on the official colours of Chinese regimes. The historical accounts of the Chinese regimes are introduced. The official colours are summarised with philological references of archaic texts. Remarkably, it has been suggested that the official colours of the most ancient regimes should be the three primitive colours: (1) white-yellow, (2) black-grue yellow, and (3) red-yellow, instead of the simple colours. There were inconsistent historical records on the official colours of the most ancient regimes because the composite colour categories had been split. It has solved the historical problem with the linguistic theory of composite colour categories. Besides, it is concluded how the official colours were determined: At first, the official colour might be naturally determined according to the substance of the ruling population. There might be three groups of people in the Far East. (1) The developed hunter gatherers with livestock preferred the white-yellow colour of milk. (2) The farmers preferred the red-yellow colour of sun and fire. (3) The herders preferred the black-grue-yellow colour of water bodies. Later, after the Han-Chinese consolidation, the official colour could be politically determined according to the main property of the five elements in Sino-metaphysics. The red colour has been predominate in China for many reasons. Keywords: colour symbolism, official colours, national colours, five elements, philology, Chinese history, Chinese language, etymology, basic colour terms DOI: 10.3176/tr.2012.3.03 1. -
2021 Workshop
2021 WORKSHOP: How did I never notice that your username is Santa Claus and mine is reindeer? Produced by Olivia Murton, Kevin Wang, Wonyoung Jang, Jordan Brownstein, Adam Fine, Will Holub-Moorman, Athena Kern, JinAh Kim, Zachary Knecht, Caroline Mao, Christopher Sims, and Will Grossman Packet 13 Tossups 1. The final manuscript of this collection, known as its “Chigi” (“KEE-jee”) form, is discussed in Ernest Wilkins’s book titled The Making of [this collection]. While at his country home in France, the speaker of this collection laments their “sixteenth year of sighs.” A woman in this collection appears along with Love, Chastity, Death, and Fame in the collection Triumphs. Sections titled (*) “In Life” and “In Death” divide this collection, which ends with a poem addressed to the Virgin Mary. This collection was popularized through translations by the Earl of Surrey and Thomas Wyatt. This collection begins, “You who hear the sound in scattered rhymes,” and is about a woman the author met on Good Friday. For 10 points, name this collection of 366 poems by Petrarch dedicated to Laura (“LAO-rah”). ANSWER: Il Canzoniere [or Songbook] <FW, European Literature> 2. A piece in this genre opens with the low strings playing the recurring theme F-sharp, D, C-sharp, D, B, [pause] low F-sharp, which then modulates up by a third every two measures. Sir Donald Tovey referred to a section of a non-Beethoven piece in this genre as “The Great Bassoon Joke” because it includes dueling bassoons playing a “Fox Song”; that piece concludes with a C major maestoso finale section. -
Buddhist Studies
Journal of the International Association of Buddhist Studies Volume 24 • Number 1 • 2001 MINORUHARA In memoriam J.W. de Jong 1 JINHUA JIA Doctrinal Reformation of the Hongzhou School of Chan Buddhism 7 NADINE OWEN Constructing Another Perspective for Ajanta's Fifth-Century Excavations 27 PETER VERHAGEN Studies in Indo-Tibetan Buddhist Hermeneutics (1) Issues of Interpretation and Translation in the Minor Works of Si-tu Pan-chen Chos-kyi-'byun-gnas (16997-1774) 61 GLENN WALLIS The Buddha's Remains: mantra in the ManjusrTmulakalpa 89 BOOK REVIEW by ULRICH PAGEL Heinz Bechert [et al.]: Der Buddhismus I: Der Indische Buddhismus und seine Verzweigungen 127 Treasurer's Report 2000 135 JINHUA JIA Doctrinal Reformation of the Hongzhou School of Chan Buddhism* Hu Shi asserts that "Chinese" Chan proper first took on complete shape in the Hongzhou school.1 This assertion has been generally accepted, and the Hongzhou school is regarded as the beginning of "classical" or "golden-age" Chan. However, when discussing exactly what marks the beginning of this new type of Chan, or in other words, what kind of reformation Mazu Daoyi JSffill-- (709-88) brought to the Chan tradition, there have been quite different explanations. YANAGIDA Seizan |7PEBIIll[ posits that the m6st salient characteristic of the Hong zhou school is that it is a Chan of everyday life and a religion of humanity.2 IRIYA Yoshitaka A^ilfij regards the ideas, "function is identical with [Buddha-]nature" and "daily activities are wonderful functions," as the core of Daoyi's teaching.3 John McRAE assumes that "encounter dialogue" distinguishes the "classical" Chan of Mazu from the "pre-classical" Chan of the Northern, early Southern, and Niutou schools.4 Bernard FAURE takes the disappearance of one-practice samadhi (yixing sanmei — ffzLW) as "an indicator of the 'epistemologi- cal split' that opened between early Chan and the 'classical' Chan of the * I thank Professors Paul W. -
A Geographic History of Song-Dynasty Chan Buddhism: the Decline of the Yunmen Lineage
decline of the yunmen lineage Asia Major (2019) 3d ser. Vol. 32.1: 113-60 jason protass A Geographic History of Song-Dynasty Chan Buddhism: The Decline of the Yunmen Lineage abstract: For a century during China’s Northern Song era, the Yunmen Chan lineage, one of several such regional networks, rose to dominance in the east and north and then abruptly disappeared. Whereas others suggested the decline was caused by a doctri- nal problem, this essay argues that the geopolitics of the Song–Jin wars were the pri- mary cause. The argument builds upon a dataset of Chan abbots gleaned from Flame Records. A chronological series of maps shows that Chan lineages were regionally based. Moreover, Song-era writers knew of regional differences among Chan lin- eages and suggested that regionalism was part of Chan identity: this corroborates my assertion. The essay turns to local gazetteers and early-Southern Song texts that re- cord the impacts of the Song–Jin wars on monasteries in regions associated with the Yunmen lineage. Finally, I consider reasons why the few Yunmen monks who sur- vived into the Southern Song did not reconstitute their lineage, and discuss a small group of Yunmen monks who endured in north China under Jin and Yuan control. keywords: Chan, Buddhism, geographic history, mapping, spatial data n 1101, the recently installed emperor Huizong 徽宗 (r. 1100–1126) I authored a preface for a new collection of Chan 禪 religious biogra- phies, Record of the Continuation of the Flame of the Jianzhong Jingguo Era (Jianzhong Jingguo xudeng lu 建中靖國續燈錄, hereafter Continuation of the Flame).1 The emperor praised the old “five [Chan] lineages, each ex- celling in a family style 五宗各擅家風,” a semimythical system promul- gated by the Chan tradition itself to assert a shared identity among the ramifying branches of master-disciple relationships. -
Or, Is Chinese Maritime History Coming of Age?
Oceanus Resartus; or, Is Chinese Maritime History Coming of Age? Leonard Blussé, Leiden University Abstract Perhaps the most salient feature of the transformation of China’s economic policy is its tack into the oceanic sphere. This is a break with the country’s traditional past as an inland- looking, continental power: the landscape is now complemented by the seascape. This article suggests that China’s new relationship with the sea asks for a master plan for reclaiming a neglected maritime past—the invention of a national maritime tradition, a newly tailored past to explain China’s former relationship with the sea. Keywords: Chinese maritime history, One Belt One Road policy, maritime anthropology, nautical traditions, mariculture Some forty-five years have passed since the publication of Joseph Needham’s research on Chinese hydraulics and shipping, probably the most acclaimed installment of his magnum opus, Science and Civilisation in China (Needham 1954–2004). Volume 4, part 3, of this work—Civil Engineering and Nautics, a copious study of some 900 pages—was published in 1971, at the height of the Cultural Revolution, when Chinese academic circles showed little interest in nautical matters. Written with the help of such maritime specialists as Lo Jung- pang, J. V. Mills, G. R. G. Worcester, and other old stalwarts of the former Chinese Maritime Customs Service, it was the first serious attempt in a Western language to give an overall survey of the history of Chinese shipping and navigation. Volume 4 is representative of “the Needham question.” In the words of Needham’s biographer, Simon Winchester: “Why did in the middle of the fifteenth century virtually all scientific advance in China come to a shuddering halt?” (Winchester 2008, 190). -
The Birth of Chinese Feminism Columbia & Ko, Eds
& liu e-yin zHen (1886–1920?) was a theo- ko Hrist who figured centrally in the birth , karl of Chinese feminism. Unlike her contem- , poraries, she was concerned less with China’s eds fate as a nation and more with the relation- . , ship among patriarchy, imperialism, capi- talism, and gender subjugation as global historical problems. This volume, the first translation and study of He-Yin’s work in English, critically reconstructs early twenti- eth-century Chinese feminist thought in a transnational context by juxtaposing He-Yin The Bir Zhen’s writing against works by two better- known male interlocutors of her time. The editors begin with a detailed analysis of He-Yin Zhen’s life and thought. They then present annotated translations of six of her major essays, as well as two foundational “The Birth of Chinese Feminism not only sheds light T on the unique vision of a remarkable turn-of- tracts by her male contemporaries, Jin h of Chinese the century radical thinker but also, in so Tianhe (1874–1947) and Liang Qichao doing, provides a fresh lens through which to (1873–1929), to which He-Yin’s work examine one of the most fascinating and com- responds and with which it engages. Jin, a poet and educator, and Liang, a philosopher e plex junctures in modern Chinese history.” Theory in Transnational ssential Texts Amy— Dooling, author of Women’s Literary and journalist, understood feminism as a Feminism in Twentieth-Century China paternalistic cause that liberals like them- selves should defend. He-Yin presents an “This magnificent volume opens up a past and alternative conception that draws upon anar- conjures a future. -
Enduring Legacy-Sample 3.Pdf
NOTE: Following the wishes of the rights holders, certain primary source documents do not appear in this sample. They are available only in the printed textbook and accompanying CD-ROM. Minor corrections may have been made to the material shown in this sample. It should not be quoted without comparison with the finalized version of this book. This sample includes: Table of Contents, Foreword, Introduction, Introductory Essay, and Lessons 10 Please see Table of Contents for a listing of this book’s complete content. CHENG &TSUI COMPANY www.cheng-tsui.com Tel: 617-988-2401 Fax:617-426-3669 Sample The Enduring Legacy of Ancient China Sample Copyright © 2006 by Primary Source, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, scanning, or any information storage or retrieval system, without written permission from the publisher. Acknowledgments for borrowed material begin on p. X. 10 09 08 07 06 1 2 3 4 5 6 Published by Cheng & Tsui Company, Inc. 25 West Street Boston, MA 02111-1213 USA Fax (617) 426-3669 www.cheng-tsui.com “Bringing Asia to the World” ™ Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Sample ISBN 13 978-0-88727-508-1 ISBN 0-88727-508-7 Printed in the U.S.A. Primary Source dedicates Th e Enduring Legacy of Ancient China to Drs. Anne and John Watt in recognition of the enduring legacy of their work in strengthening teaching about China so that American citizens can better understand Chinese history and culture. -
By Cao Cunxin
Introduction On a cold December night in Quedlinburg, Germany, in 1589, thirty-two women were burnt at the stake, accused of possessing mysterious powers that enabled them to perform evil deeds. Thousands of people were similarly persecuted between the fifteenth and the seventeenth centuries.1 However, this event was not unique, as fifty years earlier on a rainy night in August, 1549, ninety-seven maritime merchants were beheaded on the coast of Zhejiang 浙江 province for violation of the Ming maritime prohibition. In addition, 117,000 coastal people were immediately ban- ished from their homes to prevent them from going to sea. Thousands of Chinese and foreign merchants lost their lives in the subsequent military campaigns in support of the maritime interdiction. 2 If historians were asked to list the early modern phenomena that have most „disturbed‟ their academic rationale, the two centuries-long witch-hunt in early modern Europe (1500–1700) and the 200 year term of the maritime prohibition, or “hajin 海禁” (1372–1568), during the Ming dynasty (1368––1644) would probably be near the top of the list. For the past few centuries, scholars have debated vigorously the two phenomena and tried to iden- tify the factors that led to their formation, maintenance and eventual change. While the study of the witch-hunt has generated a degree of consensus, there are still many questions surrounding the Ming maritime prohibition. The maritime prohibition policy, introduced in 1371 by the newly enthroned Ming founder, the Hongwu Emperor 洪武 (r. 1368–1398), was institutionalised to maintain systematic control over foreign contact and foreign trade relations. -
Imperial Tombs of the Ming and Qing Dynasties
WHC Nomination Documentation File Name: 1004.pdf UNESCO Region: ASIA AND THE PACIFIC __________________________________________________________________________________________________ SITE NAME: Imperial Tombs of the Ming and Qing Dynasties DA TE OF INSCRIPTION: 2nd December 2000 STATE PARTY: CHINA CRITERIA: C (i) (ii) (iii) (iv) (vi) DECISION OF THE WORLD HERITAGE COMMITTEE: Criterion (i):The harmonious integration of remarkable architectural groups in a natural environment chosen to meet the criteria of geomancy (Fengshui) makes the Ming and Qing Imperial Tombs masterpieces of human creative genius. Criteria (ii), (iii) and (iv):The imperial mausolea are outstanding testimony to a cultural and architectural tradition that for over five hundred years dominated this part of the world; by reason of their integration into the natural environment, they make up a unique ensemble of cultural landscapes. Criterion (vi):The Ming and Qing Tombs are dazzling illustrations of the beliefs, world view, and geomantic theories of Fengshui prevalent in feudal China. They have served as burial edifices for illustrious personages and as the theatre for major events that have marked the history of China. The Committee took note, with appreciation, of the State Party's intention to nominate the Mingshaoling Mausoleum at Nanjing (Jiangsu Province) and the Changping complex in the future as an extention to the Imperial Tombs of the Ming and Qing dynasties. BRIEF DESCRIPTIONS The Ming and Qing imperial tombs are natural sites modified by human influence, carefully chosen according to the principles of geomancy (Fengshui) to house numerous buildings of traditional architectural design and decoration. They illustrate the continuity over five centuries of a world view and concept of power specific to feudal China. -
Shipwreck Evidence and the Maritime Circulation of Medicine Between Iran and China in the 9Th Through 14Th Centuries
The Abode of Water: Shipwreck Evidence and the Maritime Circulation of Medicine Between Iran and China in the 9th Through 14th Centuries by Amanda Respess A dissertation submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy (Anthropology and History) in the University of Michigan 2020 Doctoral Committee: Professor Kathryn Babayan, Chair Professor Miranda Brown Assistant Professor Jatin Dua Professor Carla Sinopoli, University of New Mexico Amanda Respess [email protected] ORCID iD: 0000-0003-4616-701X © Amanda Respess 2020 DEDICATION “...for by reason we have comprehended the manufacture and use of ships, so that we have reached unto distant lands divided from us by the seas; by it we have achieved medicine with its many uses to the body.” - al-Rāzī, The Spiritual Physick of Rhazes, Of the Excellence and Praise of Reason “Whoever has emerged victorious participates to this day in the triumphal procession in which the present rulers step over those who are lying prostrate. According to traditional practice, the spoils are carried along in the procession. They are called cultural treasures, and a historical materialist views them with cautious detachment. For without exception the cultural treasures he surveys have an origin which he cannot contemplate without horror. They owe their existence not only to the efforts of the great minds and talents who have created them, but also to the anonymous toil of their contemporaries.” -Walter Benjamin, On the Concept of History For my family. For Khwāja ʻAlāʼ al-Dīn al-Iṣfahānī, whose gravestone in China gave the title to this work.