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IN VINO CARITAS

The July 10–14 & Forum Excursion 2011 Contents Welcome to The Wine Forum 1 Schedule 2 Welcome to TheWineForum History of the Regions 4

Champagne 4 It is with great pleasure we present to you one of the most difficult wine landscapes to Burgundy 10 The Wine Forum’s 2011 Champagne and comprehend. However, meeting the down- Burgundy Excursion. The Wine Forum to-earth producers who produce some of the Climats du Coeur 18 is an independent non-profit organisation most precious, delicious liquids in the world Producer Profiles 20 whose members share three attributes: they will no doubt be inspiring. This time it will are global leaders in their fields; they deeply be particularly special since many of these Experts and Contributors 26 appreciate fine ; and they avidly pursue producers are involved in the “Climats du For Your Notes 28 philanthropic interests. Coeur”—a charity founded by eight legendary . We will meet many of these The Wine Forum holds two exclusive events winemakers during a special dinner hosted by per year in the most prestigious Pierre-Henry Gagey of Maison Louis Jadot at venues around the world. This tour is our most the unique venue of his family Chapel—The ambitious for several reasons: Couvent des Jacobins. The Climats du Coeur 1. We start in and journey through two winemakers collaborate to make f0ur special wine regions; cuvées from grapes donated by premier 2. We gain access to some of the world’s most owned by the top producers in the exclusive producers; d’Or. The proceeds from the sale of this 3. The tour spans four days, not our wine support many local charities and causes. usual three. Finally, some of the wine world’s greatest wine We will meet the names behind the labels— experts will join us during this tour. Fiona the owners and winemakers of some of the Morrison M.W. (of Pomerol’s Le Pin) will be most famous names in Champagne and our general wine guide throughout our visit. Burgundy. In Champagne, Olivier Krug and Additionally, Jasper Morrison M.W., Becky Frédéric Rouzaud will give us an unparalleled Wasserman and Russell Hone will join us for view of two great names in champagne wine: the final evening’s dinner held at the exclusive Maison Krug and Louis Roederer. Chambre de Roi in the Hospices de .

In Burgundy, the intricate network of , We hope you enjoy this event as much as we tiny plots and diverse ownership means it is enjoyed preparing it.

David Spreng Vidhi Tambiah Co-founder Co-founder The Wine Forum The Wine Forum 10 July 2011 Schedule

10 July | Paris to Champagne 1500 Visit and tasting at Domaine de la Romanée Conti. An initial visit to the main vineyard sites will be followed by a tasting at the Domaine. 1230 Arrive at Gare Paris Est (East Paris train station) with luggage. 1615 Visit and tasting at La Romanée with Comte Louis Michel Liger-Belair 1257 Private carriage on TGV 02733 train to Reims with champagne tasting. of Domaine Comte Liger-Belair. 1342 Arrival at Reims: Private coach transfer from TGV station to 1900 Champagne Apero at Le Cep. Les Crayeres. 2000 Dinner at Couvent des Jacobins with Climats du Coeur winemakers. 1430 Welcome to Champagne reception at hotel with Olivier Krug. Overnight—Hotel Le Cep. 1830 Visit and tasting at Louis Roederer. Visit to the onsite gallery and small museum. y13 Jul | Burgundy—Côte de Nuits 2000 Dinner at Louis Roederer with Frédéric Rouzaud. Breakfast at Le Cep. Overnight—Les Crayeres. 0900 Morey-St-Denis: Half the group will visit with Diana 11 July | Champagne and Burgundy and/or Jeremy Seysses, and half the group at with Laurent Ponsot. The groups then swap locations. Breakfast at Les Crayeres. 1200 Lunch at with Erwan Faiveley and Bernard Hervet— 0930 Visit and tasting at Krug before transfer to the du Mesnil vineyard. tasting followed by lunch with their wines. 1200 Lunch at Clos du Mesnil. 1545 The 1er cru vines outside Gevrey- for seminar and tasting with Jean-Marie Fourrier, Domaine Fourrier. 1330 Coach from Clos du Mesnil to Puligny- (3 hours 10 mins). 1945 Walk to the Hospices through special underground walkway near 1700 Welcome to Burgundy tasting with Véronique Drouhin of Maison Le Cep. Joseph Drouhin. 2000 Private Apero at the . 2000 Dinner at Le Montrachet with wines from Drouhin. 2045 Gala Dinner at La Chambre du Roi, Hospices de Beaune with Overnight—Hotel Le Montrachet. wine critics/speakers Jasper Morris M.W., Becky Wasserman, and Russell Hone. 12 July | Burgundy—Côte de Beaune Overnight—Hotel Le Cep. Breakfast at Le Montrachet. 0930 Welcome to Burgundy seminar with Maison Louis Jadot President y14 Jul | Departure Day Pierre-Henry Gagey and Jacques Lardière. Breakfast at Le Cep. 1230 Vigneron lunch at Château de Puligny-Montrachet with Etienne de Private departures as necessary; or stay and enjoy Bastille Day Montille, Alix de Montille and Jean-Marc Roulot. in Burgundy.

2 3 History of the Regions

(Excerpts from the Oxford Companion to Wine, with kind permission from , The habit was taken up by the licentious court dominated by a number of internationally www.jancisrobinson.com) round the duke of Orléans, who became famous brand names. Most of these were of after the death of Louis XIV those of young entrepreneurs from the CHAMPAGNE in 1715, but serious winemakers (and their Rhineland, such as Messrs Krug, Bollinger, clients) continued to believe that sparkling and Roederer, who showed greater History But the wines did not sparkle: they were champagne was inferior to the still wines of commercial nous than the local merchants, Although there are numerous legends light, pinkish still wines made from the Pinot the region. Moreover even the stronger bottles only a few of whom, apart from Madame concerning earlier vineyards, the first serious Noir grape. In the last half of the 17th century, could not reliably withstand the pressure Clicquot and Monsieur Moët, survived. mention is at the time of St Rémi at the wine-making greatly improved, under the generated by the second fermentation. So, th end of the 5th century AD. For nearly eight auspices of leading clerical winemakers, led throughout the 18 century, only a few But for over half a century, until well into the centuries after Hugh Capet was crowned as by Dom Pérignon, who transformed the thousand bottles were produced every year, 1950s, Champagne suffered from a number of king of France in Rheims cathedral in 987, Abbey of Hautvillers, above Épernay, into and up to half of them would break. problems which clouded its earlier successes. the city’s position as the spiritual centre of the region’s leading centre of viticultural The important Russian market collapsed in France naturally boosted its fame. progress. The wines’ fame grew greatly in The champagne business we know today 1917, and two World Wars, separated by the the second half of the 17th century when they was born in the first 40 years of the 19th slump, closed the export markets on which Vines had already been planted were introduced to the Court of Versailles, century. The first notable step was taken the region depended so heavily. The arrival around the city, mainly by the notably by the Marquis de Sillery, a by Madame (Veuve) Clicquot. One of her of the phylloxera louse in Champagne in numerous local abbeys and by large landowner in the region, and employees developed the system of pupitres 1890 intensified competition from other the local nobility. But until the by the Marquis de St-Évremond, to assist in the remuage process. Corks sparkling wines, from Germany as well 17th century there was no generic who introduced champagne were improved, and a corking machine as from other French winemakers, and ‘vin de Champagne.’ Since the to London society after he was developed. Understanding, and then intensified the fraudulent habits of some of 9th century, wines from the banished to Britain in 1662. mastering, the second fermentation took the region’s more unscrupulous merchants, south of the longer. The scientist and minister Chaptal who were wont to import juice and wine for city had been known as ‘vins de In the cold winters normal in the had understood that ‘sparkling wines owe bottling and sell as champagne. Reims,’ those from the Marne region, the wines had a tendency to their tendency to sparkle only to the fact that valley as ‘vins de la rivière,’ stop fermentation and then to start they have been enclosed in a bottle before The fraud compounded the misery caused or river wines. A number of refermenting in the spring. For a long they have completed their fermentation.’ by phylloxera to the region’s growers and But it took a young pharmacist from caused a near civil war in 1911. This was villages, notably Bouzy and Dom Pérignon time this was considered something of Verzenay on the Montagne, and a nuisance, as the resulting release of Châlons-sur-Marne, André François, to sparked off by the first attempts to define Ay and Épernay in the Marne valley, were carbon dioxide was often strong enough enable winemakers to measure the precise the region entitled to produce champagne. already being singled out for the quality of to break the flimsy bottles normal at the quantity of sugar required to induce a second When the French Assembly included the their wines. The wine trade was centred on time. The development of stronger bottles fermentation in the bottle without inducing Aube, a separate wine region 110 km/70 miles Rheims and Châlons-sur-Marne, and the by British glassmakers permitted drinkers an explosive force. south east of Épernay, riots broke out in the wines had the great advantage of immediate to enjoy the resulting sparkle. Indeed it was Champagne region proper. Eventually the access to the Marne, which joined the Seine the café society of London, encouraged by François died in 1838, shortly after he Aube was included as a separate ‘second just east of Paris. St-Évremond, which probably first enjoyed had published his formulae. But within a zone,’ although it was included in the main true ‘sparkling champagne.’ generation Champagne had become the appellation when the boundaries were finally home of the world’s first ‘wine industry,’ one fixed in 1927.

4 5 The events of 1911 shook the whole wine- just before the First World War. They grew Geography and climate making community, and 25 years later the rapidly in the early 1960s and by 1989 the The region permitted to call its Champagne resulting desire for common action resulted region’s 140 co-operatives represented over wines ‘champagne’ was strictly in the combined group of growers and half the growers and a third of the area under defined by the INAO in 1927. It merchants known as the Commission de vines. Some co-operatives merely press sprawls from Charly a mere 50 Reims Châlons, set up in 1935 under the impetus grapes, others make wine (much of which km/30 miles east of Paris in the Montagne de Reims Valle de la Marne of the remarkable Robert-Jean de Vogüé, is returned to members for sale under their Marne valley to Rheims and south Chateau-Thierry head of Moët. At a time when growers own label, a fact signified by the letters CM Epernay from Épernay along the Côte des Chalons-sur-Marne were virtually giving away their grapes, the before the grower’s code on the label). Two or Blancs and its southern extension, Côte des Blancs Commission provided them with some three co-operative unions, producing up to the Côte de Sézanne. A separate stability. Six years later, the desire for joint ten million bottles annually, became major region is the Aube, 112 km south Sezanne Vitry le Francois action led to the formation of the CIVC, forces, particularly in supplying buyers’ own east of Épernay. Over the years, the the Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin brands and subsequently uniting to promote acreage actually planted has varied de Champagne, the pioneering attempt, their own brands. widely, dropping to 11,000 ha/27,000 Côte de Sezanne much copied elsewhere, to provide wine- acres during the 1930s. In 2005, the Troys making regions with an organization which The competition from the co-operatives appellation covered just over 30,000 represented all the interests involved. added to the pressure on the, usually ha in five départements—up from Bar-sur-Seine family-owned, merchants. In the 1960s and the 1993 total of 27,500 ha: 19,500 Since 1950, the region has enjoyed 1970s, Moët & Chandon absorbed Mercier ha in the Marne; 2,500 in the Aisne unprecedented prosperity with sales and Ruinart, the latter the oldest firm in (and Seine-et-Marne); and 5,500 in Vignoble de l’Aube quadrupling to well over 200 million the region, and after further acquisitions, the Aube (and the Haute-Marne). bottles. Traditional export markets, such including Veuve Clicquot and Krug, today Only a tenth of the vines are owned wines varying from year to year. As a result, as Britain, the United States, , and represents by far the dominant grouping in by merchants, who can now add to their champagne is traditionally a wine blended, , took increasing quantities. Champagne. The growers’ increasing power holdings only under very strict conditions. not only from a number of different villages, Nevertheless the French market has long was reflected in a rapid rise of grape prices The remainder is owned by nearly 20,000 but also from several . The poverty consumed far more champagne than all during the 1980s and by the inflexibility with growers, many of whom own less than a of the requires constant addition of export markets and accounts for two-thirds of which grapes were allotted to the merchants. hectare of vines. fertilizer, either the cendres noirs, the natural sales. This emphasis had important structural In 1990, under the impetus of Moët, the compost found on the region’s hilltops, or, implications, since the traditional brands market was freed. Since then price has been Much of the appellation (and Champagne until the late 1990s, finely ground (and were less dominant in the domestic market indicative, not legally binding. A number is now the only major French region to curiously multicoloured) household rubbish than outside France, where they still account of firms, especially those without their own have just one appellation), and all the better from Rheims, or even Paris. for over 90 per cent of sales. vineyards, experienced difficulties and were crus, are on the slopes of the hills typical of sold and resold a number of times. So the the region. The vines’ roots dig deep into The different qualities of grapes from the In the domestic market, nearly half of total trade has become increasingly concentrated, chalky depths, providing ideal conditions region’s 301 widely spread crus has led to the sales are made by individual growers, co- with the seven biggest houses accounting for of drainage and humidity. The Champagne establishment of a scale of prices. Originally operatives, and co-operative unions. The first 70 per cent of the total. vineyard’s exposure to the cold northern the scale was from 50 to 100 per cent of the co-operatives in Champagne were founded winter inevitably makes grape-growing a fixed price. Since a revision in 1985, it has precarious operation, with the quality of the been merely from 80 to 100 per cent, that top

6 7 level allowed only to grapes from 17 ‘grand from every marc: the first 2,050 l were the dose of bottling liquor (liqueur de tirage), cru’ communes. Grapes from a further cuvée, the next 410 l the premières tailles, a mixture of wine, sugar, and specially 38 communes, called premiers crus, are while the final 205 l were the deuxièmes developed yeasts, is added to the wine. The sold at between 90 and 98 per cent of the tailles. The total yield has now been reduced bottles are then capped, usually with a crown maximum price. by 115 l to 2,550 l and the deuxièmes tailles cap lined with plastic. Following tirage, abolished. lees contact, riddling, and disgorgement, a There have long been proposals for a sweetening dosage is usually added before thorough reclassification of premiers and The juice is allowed to settle for between 12 final corking. A few are sold grands crus according to individual vineyards and 48 hours, at a low temperature. A few without any added sugar at all; most are brut. rather than a blanket award to all vines in a firms use fermentation vessels for some given commune. or all of their grapes, but the overwhelming Styles of champagne majority of the grapes are In addition to their basic wine, Grape varieties fermented in stainless their non- brut, major In the past, a number of grape varieties were steel vats holding firms also make single vintage planted in Champagne. But today almost the between 50 and 1,200 hl champagnes, typically three whole vineyard is planted with three: Pinot (1,320–31,700 gal). The or four in every decade. Blanc Noir, , and . The fermentation temperature de blancs are made exclusively , which accounts for just over a also varies, between 12 from the Chardonnay grape third of the total acreage, is no longer as Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay grapes and 25°C (54–77°F). Most while blanc de noirs are made dominant as it was, but still provides the basic winemakers use a strain of exclusively from black grapes. structure and depth of fruit in the blend. In Wine-making yeast specially developed Pink or champagne is Champagne, the Chardonnay, planted in The of the grapes is difficult, since by the CIVC. made either by adding a small a quarter of the vineyard, was traditionally the juice of what is to be a must Closing bottles with wire— proportion of to grown on the east-facing slopes of the Côte not be tainted by the skin of the mainly black Immediately after the engraving ca. 1870 the blend or, less usually, by des Blancs but has proved suitable in many grapes used. The traditional champagne first fermentation, most, but by no means letting the juice remain in contact with the other subregions, especially the Côte de press was a vertical basket press, holding all, champagnes now undergo malolactic skin of the grapes for a short time during Sézanne. In Champagne it grows vigorously 4,000 kg/8,800 lb of grapes, a quantity fermentation. The result is called vin clair. fermentation. Until 1992, the Champenois and buds early, thus making it susceptible known as a marc and a standard unit of Traditionally champagne has been made could market as Crémant wines made under to spring frosts. It imparts a certain austerity measurement in the region. These presses are from wines from a number of different lower pressure: generally three atmospheres and elegance to young champagnes, but is also called Coquard presses after the name of vineyards within the appellation although rather than the normal six. But today only long lived and matures to a fine fruitiness. the manufacturer. A number of other types large numbers of growers (and a few firms) wines made in other -growing The remaining third is planted with Pinot of press have since been introduced and the make wines from a single commune or regions are allowed to use the term. All the Meunier, a variety widely grown only in CIVC allows both hydraulic and pneumatic vineyard. Major firms use wines from major firms have now followed the example Champagne, particularly in the Valley of the horizontal presses. between 50 and 200 communes for their of Roederer with their bottling and Marne. It provides many champagnes with blend. They also use between 10 and 50 per Moët & Chandon with Dom Pérignon and an early-maturing richness and fruitiness. A Since 1990, all pressing centres have had to cent of vins de réserve from earlier vintages, produce ‘luxury,’ ‘de luxe,’ or prestige cuvées little is also grown and at least comply with certain minimum standards. generally stored in stainless steel or cement to show their house styles at their best. one champagne is made from it. Traditionally 2,666 l/704 gal were extracted vats. Before the wine is bottled, a measured

8 9 BURGUNDY a canal system in Burgundy, and the Paris– railway in 1851. History The earliest major work on the wines of The duchy of Burgundy was once so proud Burgundy, Claude Arnoux’s Dissertation on Easy prosperity was first checked, however, of having the finest wines and finest court in the Situation of Burgundy…was published by the spread of powdery mildew in the Christendom that it developed into a state, in 1728. It demonstrates the fame of the red 1850s and then destroyed by the arrival of the and very nearly a kingdom in its own right. wines of the Côte de Nuits and the special phylloxera louse in the 1870s. This calamity The defeat and death of the over-ambitious reputation of the Œil-de-Perdrix (partridge- was finally admitted in the Côte d’Or in 1878 Charles the Rash, however, led to its being eye) pink wines of Volnay, while the existence when an infested vineyard in was reincorporated into the of white wine in the Côte surrounded by soldiers. The Burgundians kingdom of France. As de Beaune earns only a brief did not find it easy to come to terms with the monarchy became mention. the problem: there were riots in Bouze- stronger, the power of lès-Beaune between factions in favour of the Church declined Most vineyards remained treating vineyards and those against; a posse slowly, so that during the in the hands of Church or of growers in Chenôve actually attacked a 17th century many of the nobility until the French team sent in to spray the vines; American famous vineyards donated Revolution. From 1791, the rootstocks, the eventual saviours of French to the Church during the vineyards were sold off, often vineyards, were banned from the region were sold to split between several owners. between 1874 and 1887. Eventually, however, the increasingly important Since then they have further common sense prevailed and by the 1890s bourgeoisie in Dijon. fragmented as a result of post-phylloxera wines were again on the Most burgundy was sold through the the law of equal inheritance market. Only the best vineyards were worth flourishing négociant houses until the Although transport among children laid down replanting after the predations of phylloxera, years of hardship after the First World difficulties still hindered in the Napoleonic Code. a valuable side benefit of the disaster. War. The economic depression of the 1920s burgundy’s fame abroad, This process has caused and early 1930s threatened to ruin many the famous giant Pierre Louis XIV much of the difficulty in The Burgundians were well aware of the small growers. One solution was the co- Brosse managed to interest Louis XIV in understanding burgundy: the consumer must considerable variation in quality of the operative, particularly useful in Mâconnais, his Mâcon and the Sun King’s physician, familiarize himself not only with a plethora wines produced by different plots of land, or where prices were lower. Another was for Fagon, prescribed old burgundy instead of of village and vineyard names but also with climats, as they are known in Burgundy. In proprietors to bottle their own produce, a champagne as the most suitable wine for his the relative merits of possibly dozens of 1855, Dr Lavalle published his influential move which met with opposition from monarch’s health. Roads began to improve in producers of each one. History and Statistics of the Côte d’Or, the merchants when growers such as the the 18th century and the tolls and tribulations which included an informal classification Marquis d’Angerville, Henri Gouges, and inherent in road travel diminished, Burgundy prospered in the early 19th century, of the best vineyards. This was formalized Armand Rousseau pioneered the concept of encouraging the start of commercial traffic although wine prices were low even for in 1861 by the Beaune Committee of domaine bottling in the 1930s. Whereas in in Burgundy. The first négociant (merchant) the fine vineyards. In addition, there was Agriculture, which, with Lavalle’s assistance, 1962 wines produced and bottled by growers houses were founded in the 1720s and 1730s, widespread planting of the inferior devised three classes. Most of the first class accounted for only 15 per cent of production, including Champy (1720) and Bouchard Père grape to provide wine that was plentiful and were in due course enfranchised as grands by 1990 nearly half of all Côte d’Or wines et Fils (1731), names which have survived to cheap, albeit mediocre. Transport conditions crus when the appellation contrôlée system were domaine bottled. this day. continued to improve with the opening of was introduced in the 1930s.

10 11 Geography and climate red wines of Burgundy are produced on the overtook Gamay as most important, and Côte de Nuits Dijon The vineyards of Burgundy are based on escarpment of the Côte d’Or, especially in became an important source of wine labelled limestone originating in the Jurassic period. the Côte de Nuits sector. Even here several Bourgogne Blanc. In 1988, the Saône-et- Chenôve This takes the form of undulating chalk vintages in a decade may lack sufficient sun Loire département, which includes these two Marsannay hills in ; a long narrow escarpment to ripen properly. southern districts, had 4,500 running south and a touch west from Dijon ha/11,100 acres of Chardonnay (three times to Chagny, the Côte d’Or; more isolated Among the white wines of Burgundy, the more than the Côte d’Or). Gamay plantings limestone outcrops in the Côte Chalonnaise wines of Chablis, reflecting their northern were just over 3,000 ha while those of Pinot Gevrey-Chambertin and Mâconnais; with the vineyards of origin, are green tinted in colour and Noir were 2,800 ha. There were also about

Pouilly-Fuissé beneath the imposing crags of comparatively austere to taste. The most 500 ha of Aligoté, approximately the same Morey-Saint-Denis Chambolle- Reulle-Vergy Solutré and Vergisson in the extreme south. revered white wines are those of the Côte de area as the Côte d’Or. Gilly- lès-Cîteaux L'Etang- Vergy Curtil- Beaune, there being practically none in the Bévy Vergy Flagey-Echézeaux Collonges-lès-Bévy Vosne- Romanée The climate in Burgundy is broadly Côte de Nuits, while the whites of the Côte Côte d’Or Messanges continental. In contrast to Bordeaux, Chalonnaise are lighter and attractive to Côte d’Or is the heart of the Burgundy Chevannes Villars-Fontaine Nuits- Le Meuzin Saint-Georges drink young. Further south, the white wines wine region in the form of an escarpment Burgundy is noticeably colder in the Chaux of Mâconnais enjoy enough sun to make winter months, similar in temperature in supporting a narrow band of vineyards for Marey-lès- Premeaux-Prissey Comblamchien the spring, but a little cooler during the fat and ripe wines, although many of them nearly 50 km/30 miles southwards (and Villers-la-Faye summer. Although usually dry in winter, lack finesse. a touch west) from Dijon, capital of the Magny-lès-Villers Corgolon Burgundy tends to suffer from particularly département of the same name. Although heavy rainfall in May and June and again Vine varieties the name Côte d’Or apparently translates Côte de Beaune in October, which may or may not fall after Burgundy has one of the world’s least directly as ‘golden slope,’ evoking its Fussey Echevronne Magny- the . Spring frost can be a problem varied ranges of vine varieties. Almost all autumnal aspect, it may be an abbreviation les-Villers

(especially in Chablis), while hail causes of the region’s best red and white wines are of Côte d’Orient, a reference to the fact that Pernand-Vergelesses local damage almost every year. made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay the escarpment on which the vines flourish Ladoix Savigny-lès-Beaune Aloxe- Chorey- respectively. On the Côte d’Or, more than faces east. Viticulturally it is divided into two lès-Beaune Mavilly-Mandelot Bouze-lès-Beaune Overall, there is a shorter and more variable seven in every ten vines planted were Pinot sectors, the Côte de Nuits, in which great Le Rhoin Noir in the late 1980s, while Chardonnay red wines are made from the Pinot Noir vine, Beaune summer than in Bordeaux (which is why plantings were increasing so that even at the and the Côte de Beaune, where the reds only early-ripening grape varieties can be grown there). And whereas the hardy most recent vineyard census of 1988 they are joined by the finest white wines made Volnay Saint-Romain Monthélie chardonnay vine can thrive under these represented nearly two in every ten vines. from Chardonnay. Orches Auxey- Duresses Evelle Meursault Baubigny conditions, producing what are widely Gamay and Aligoté, the ‘lesser’ red and Vauchignon Cormot- le-Grand considered the finest full-bodied dry white white wine vines respectively, were in hasty The Côte d’Or represents the fault line Puligny-Montrachet Cirey-lès-Nolay wines in the world, the temperamental pinot retreat, although Bourgogne Aligoté has separating the hills of the Morvan from the Saint-Aubin Chassagne-Montrachet Nolay

Epertully La Cosane its followers. plain of the Saône, which, in the Jurassic noir vine is less regularly successful. Change

La Dheune Chagny period 195 to 135 million years BC, was an Santenay Créot Paris-l'hôpital Remigny Dezize-lès-Maranges Burgundy is at the limit of successful In the Côte Chalonnaise and Mâconnais, inland sea. The predominant rock is Jurassic Sampigny-lès-Maranges ripening, the red wines of Auxerrois rarely Chardonnay plantings increased notably limestone, which favours both Chardonnay Cheilly-lès-Maranges achieving much depth or body. The great during the 1970s and 1980s when the variety and Pinot Noir vine varieties. However, the escarpment features many differing forms of

12 13 A cross-section of the Côte reveals topsoil employed to restrict vigour in younger vines vineyard and vigneron; complexity comes too sparse on the hilltop and too fertile in and those on over-productive rootstocks). with maturity, the fresh fruit components the plain to produce wine of any quality. Harvesting is still mostly manual, especially giving way to more evolved aromas, often The vineyard area begins to the west of for Pinot Noir. Maximum yields are officially redolent of truffles or undergrowth (sous-bois, the Dijon– railway line but only the set at 40 hl/ha (2.3 tons/acre) for red wines according to French palates). most basic wines made from Aligoté and at village and premier cru level, 45 hl/ha Gamay are produced here. Approaching the for whites. Maximum permitted yields for Some wines are weighty, others intensely main Dijon–Chagny road, the RN74, the grands crus are mostly at 35 hl/ha for reds elegant, but all should have concentration. vineyards are still on flat, fertile land but and 40 hl/ha for whites. In most vintages, Style depends in part on the character of the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are planted to a supplementary allowance of 20 per cent village: gevrey-chambertin, vougeot, nuits- produce Bourgogne Rouge and Bourgogne is allowed. Exceptionally in 1996 this was st-georges, corton, and pommard tend to Blanc. These in turn give way to village increased to 30 per cent in many villages. produce robust, long-lived wines; chambolle- appellation vineyards; as the ground starts to musigny, vosne-romanée, and volnay slope upwards, drainage improves, and the There are no set rules for the production epitomize finesse and elegance. Within soil is less fertile. of great red burgundy, and every domaine each village, different vineyards display limestone and other rocks. Oolitic limestone, or négociant house revels in its own their individual characteristics according which originated as a precipitation around Where the slope becomes more pronounced idiosyncrasies. Principal options include to the exact soil structure, elevation, marine debris of carbonate of lime from the and clay gives way to stonier topsoil, the destemming of the grapes (wholly, partly, or and topography. seawater, is usefully porous, and provides vineyards are designated premiers crus, not at all); period; fermentation good drainage compared with marlstone, reflecting the potential quality of the wines temperature; length of maturation; Differences in annual weather patterns which is made up of clay, sand, gravel, and from land which drains well and enjoys type of oak ; fining regime; and the are crucial in determining quality in the marl, the result of decomposition of older greater exposure to the sun. The finest of extent to which filtration is practised. The region. Burgundy is at a climatic crossroads, mountains such as the Ardennes. these vineyards, in certain villages only, better wines of the Côte d’Or are all matured experiencing Atlantic, Mediterranean, are classified as grands crus (listed under for at least a year, more often 18 months, in and Baltic weather systems. A cool breeze The escarpment is also broken up by Burgundy). The premier and grand cru 228-l (59-gal) oak barrels, a proportion of from the north (la Bise) is ideal to temper streams—the Vouge in Vougeot, the vineyards are mainly at elevations between which are usually new. Before bottling, some anticyclonic conditions in the summer; a Meuzin in Nuits-St-Georges, the Rhoin in 250 and 300 m (800–1,000 ft) above sea producers fine and filter the wine; others southern wind brings heat but also danger; Savigny, the Dheune and Avant-Dheune level. Near the top of the slope, where the prefer one treatment to the other; a few use hail and thunder often result when the warm further south—running down from the soil is almost too poor, there is usually a neither in the belief that the wine thereby wind swings round to the west, the wettest hills eventually to join the Saône, and by narrow band of village appellation vineyards has more depth of flavour and capacity to direction. There is probably greater vintage dry valleys (combes) such as the Combe providing fine but light wines. evolve, even though it is less stable. variation in Burgundy than in any other de Lavaux in Gevrey-Chambertin. These wine region. breaks vary the orientation of the vineyards: Viticultural practices are relatively constant The qualities of great red burgundy are not thus Clos-St-Jacques and Corton are both for both major grape varieties throughout easy to judge young, especially since the In some vintages—1984, 1987, 1993, and exposed more to the south than east while the Côte d’Or. Vine density is notably wine tends to be less deeply coloured than 2001 for instance—most Pinot Noir grapes much of Corton- actually high—about 10,000 vines per ha (4,000 per equivalent wines from Bordeaux or the do not fully ripen, although growers who faces south west. The streams also affect the acre)—and vines are trained and pruned Rhône. When young, a fine burgundy should conscientiously restrict yields often produce composition of the soil by bringing down chiefly according to the single guyot system show a bouquet of soft red fruit, ranging excellent wines. The 1996 vintage, which alluvial deposits. (although cordon de royat is increasingly from cherries to plums depending on the produced fine wines for ageing, was unusual

14 15 in that September sunshine ripened the deposits, the ‘gross lees,’ but left on their The market for burgundy grapes fully, judging by the sugar levels, yet fine lees, which are regularly stirred up to was built by the merchants, cool nights maintained the acidity at levels nourish the wine and avoid production of who would buy grapes and normally associated with an unripe year. In hydrogen sulfide. wine from many different other years, excessive rainfall can either swell growers before blending and the crop to produce dilute wines (as in 1982, Fine white burgundy, when young, is more selling the results. Behind a 1992, and 2000) or encourage rot (as in 1986 likely to show the character of the oak in merchant’s Aloxe-Corton label, and 1994). Most difficult to judge are the which it has been vinified than the grapes for example, may well be the hot vintages in which the fruit in the wine is from which it came. Hallmarks of quality produce of many different either supported, or sometimes overwhelmed, are fullness of body, balance of acidity, and plots and cellars. Although in by tannins (as in 1976 and 1983). Certain persistence of flavour. Only after two or more some cases these blends may vintages, such as 1985, 1989, 1997, and 2003 years of bottle age will a fine Meursault or be better than any individual produce fully ripe grapes and many wines Puligny-Montrachet start to show the quality ingredient, and in most which are attractive to taste throughout their of the fruit. This will deepen with age and, Ownership map of the Montrachet vineyard cases today the merchants lives. The greatest vintages of the past 30 while vegetal tones will appear, they should have better equipment years however have been 1978, 1990 and 1999. not overwhelm the natural elegance of the as in Bordeaux. But the combination of the and wine-making skills than the average wine. A village appellation wine should be Napoleonic Code, with its insistence on Burgundian vine-grower, such blends have Great white burgundy is produced in the at its best between three and five years old, equal inheritance for every family member, met increasing consumer resistance. Wine Côte de Beaune, notably in the villages a premier cru from five to ten years, while and the fact that the land has proved so merchants such as and of Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, and a grand cru worthy of its status needs a full valuable, has meant that small family Alexis Lichine introduced particularly the Chassagne-Montrachet, along with a small decade of bottle ageing. holdings have been divided and subdivided American public to the notion of domaine enclave further north yielding the grand over generations. One vineyard, or climat, as bottled burgundy in the 1950s and 1960s, cru Corton-Charlemagne. The suited To most of the villages and towns in the it is known in this, the cradle of terroir, may creating a demand which resulted in a to Chardonnay production tend to be Côte d’Or was appended the name of their therefore be owned by scores of different widespread improvement in the quality paler in colour than the iron-rich, redder most famous vineyard, typically in the individual owners, each of them cultivating and authenticity of the merchants’ produce. soils on which the Pinot Noir thrives. The late 19th century. Thus, for example, Vosne sometimes just a row or two of vines. The merchants increasingly own their own Chardonnay vine is hardier than the Pinot, became Vosne-Romanée and Puligny vineyards, and are able to label the wines the grapes ripen more easily, and the wines became Puligny-Montrachet. Organization of trade they produce ‘mise en bouteille au domaine.’ require less delicate handling. It is easier Unlike the bordeaux trade with its large (Because few growers can afford their own to make good white burgundy than red but Organization of Burgundian volume of single appellations, and many bottling equipment, mobile bottling units very little great white burgundy is made. vineyards stratifications of those who sell it, the are much used in Burgundy.) Since the early The grapes are pressed, usually without skin The vineyards of Burgundy, especially those Burgundian wine trade is polarized between 1990s, the distinctions between growers contact, left to settle, then fermented in oak of the Côte d’Or, are the most minutely growers and négociants, or merchants. and merchants have become increasingly casks for up to a year, although those with parcellated in the world. This is mainly Because the laws of equal inheritance have blurred, with many widely admired growers suitable cellars prefer to keep the wine for a because the land has been continuously been strictly applied in a region of such also producing another range of wines made second winter in wood. After the alcoholic managed and owned by individual valuable vineyards, individual growers may from grapes they did not grow themselves. fermentation, the wines are racked into smallholders—there was no influx of outside for example produce just one barrel, enough another set of barrels to remove the major capital with which to establish great estates to fill just 25 cases, of a particular appellation.

16 17 Climats du Coeur

Meursault Premier Cru 2009 Vinified, aged and bottled by Domaine Roulot and from grapes donated by Maisons Louis Latour, Deux Montille Sœur Frère, Albert Bichot, Bouchard Père et Fils, Olivier Leflaive and Domaines Roulot, des Comtes Lafon, Albert Grivault and Bitouzet Prieur.

Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2009 The Climats du Coeur presents Burgundy 2009 vintage into a sizeable donation to Vinified, aged and bottled by and Maison Louis lovers with a great opportunity to buy some local Burgundian charities. Founders of the Jadot from grapes donated by Maison Louis Jadot, Domaines of the region’s finest wine, in very special charity Climats du Coeur are Anne-Claude Leflaive, Henri Boillot, Sauzet, Duc de Magenta, Chartron, Pernot magnums. A thousand cases containing Leflaive of Domaine Leflaive, Jacques and Château de Puligny,. four magnums of 2009 premiers crus are Lardière of Maison Louis Jadot, Véronique on offer at €1,200 apiece ex-cellars Beaune, Drouhin of , Aubert including VAT. de Villaine of Domaine de la Romanée- Conti, Erwan Faiveley of Masion Faiveley, Eight of the Côte d’Or’s very best Jeremy Seysses of Domaine Dujac, Jean- winemakers have decided to pair up and Marc Roulot of Domaine Roulot and Louis- co-operate to transform some of the plentiful Fabrice Latour of Maison Louis Latour. One hundred percent of the sale proceeds and Vinium, who designed the website: will go to local charities. 70% will go to www.climats-du-coeur.com. the ‘Restos du Coeur,’ a charity that helps the destitute with food in winter. This On the basis of the very high quality of the association is respected within France for winemakers and participating climats, many being efficient, well managed and effective experts feel confident that these wines will The wines are: at redistributing all the money it receives. give great pleasure. The wines are available Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru 2009 The other 30% will go to the charities to purchase now and will be released in Vinified, aged and bottled by Domaine Dujac and Maison Faiveley linked to the Abbaye de Citeaux, the late 2011. The Wine Forum will have the from grapes donated by Maison Faiveley and Domaines Dujac, Couvent de Béatitudes and the Abbaye de special chance to sample these wines at a Dupont-Tisserandot, Bruno Clair, Rebourseau, Geantet-Pansiot, St-Vivant as a reminder of how important special dinner with the wine makers and has Drouhin-Laroze and Rossignol-Trapet. these monasteries are to the history of the reserved a number of cases which will be wines of Burgundy. “Without the monks, specially signed by the wine makers. Burgundy would not be what it is today.” Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru 2009 The charity's website also cites all those who Special shipping rates are available from Vinified, aged and bottled by Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and donated to the cause, including coopers Hillebrand to any destination in the world. Maison Joseph Drouhin from grapes donated by Maison Joseph Drouhin and Domaines de la Romanée-Conti, Méo-Camuzet, Michel Gros, Comte Liger-Belair, Robert Arnoux, Lamarche, Prieuré-Roch, Grivot, Confuron-Cotetidot and Bernard Gros.

18 19 Producer Profiles

Krug Louis Roederer Joseph Drouhin Louis Jadot Maison Krug was In 1833 Louis Maison Joseph Maison Louis Jadot dates founded in 1843 by Roederer inherited Drouhin was from 1859, when Louis Johann Joseph Krug. the Champagne founded in Beaune Henri Denis Jadot started His only son Paul was, house Dubois Père in 1880, and now the the now well-known however, responsible et Fils, founded fourth generation negociant house. Some for the worldwide in 1776, from his runs the family vineyards were already recognition of the brand, uncle. Champagne business. Joseph owned by the Jadot family, especially in the UK Louis Roederer was was originally from but the focus through this market. In 1867 he purchased the land and born and Louis started to explore different Chablis and moved to Beaune to start period was selling brokered wine to Northern constructed the buildings that form the Krug export markets. One of the main markets his wine company. His son Maurice was Europe. His son Louis Jean Baptiste headquarters today. Paul Krug also played pursued was Russia. Tsar Nicholas II chose responsible for purchasing many important expanded the company by purchasing a large role in promoting Champagne as a Champagne Louis Roederer as the official vineyard plots in the Côte d’Or through several vineyards, including plots in several whole, by convincing numerous Champagne supplier to the Imperial Court of Russia. He the early and mid-20th century. Maurice’s Grand Cru appellations. Third generation houses to participate in the World Exposition also commissioned the cuvee prestige Cristal, son-in-law, Robert continued growing the director Louis Auguste expanded the markets of 1900, where their pavilion was awarded the with special clear bottles and flat bottoms to business acquiring more vineyards, including to which the company sold wine, adding Premier Grand Prix. Paul had 10 children, distinguish them. The Russian Revolution, significant holdings in Chablis. He was particularly the UK and the USA. André his son Joseph was director of Krug for Prohibition in the USA, and the two world also responsible for reducing herbicide and Gagey joined Louis Jadot as Louis Auguste’s several years. Now six generations on, Krug wars all contributed to challenging times pesticide use. Robert’s four children each right hand man in 1954 before taking over as continues to be a leading Champagne house. through the early and mid 20th century for this have a role in the business. The domaine has director in 1962 after family-owned business. become both organic and biodynamic and the premature death “Krug is an expression of the highest art, the In 1979 Jean-Claude the fruits of these efforts of his mentor. In 1970 transformation of nature through precise Rouzaud took the helm show in the wines produced. Jacques Lardière grape selection, the assemblage of a mosaic and in 2006 his son With 73 hectares of property, was hired as a young of different growths and the long ageing in Fréderic succeeded and nearly two-thirds in winemaker to assist the cellars,” says Olivier Krug. “This alchemy him and continues to Premier Cru or Grand André, and in 1984 is ultimately expressed in the breathtaking enhance the reputation Cru appellations, Maison Pierre-Henry Gagey, abundance of flavours, the extraordinary of this prestigious Drouhin is a leader in André’s son joined the contrast of richness, freshness, power and Champagne house. fine Burgundy. Véronique Drouhin management team. Jacques Lardière finesse. Every sip is a revelation.” Jean-Claude Rouzaud In 1985 Madame Jadot sold controlling shares of the company to Kobrand, the US importer of Jadot wines. Since 1992 Pierre-Henry has been director of Maison Louis Jadot. Pierre-Henry Gagey

20 21 Domaine de Domaine Roulot Domaine de la Domaine du Comte Montille This Domaine of Romanée Conti Liger-Belair Located in Volnay, approximately 11 Reputedly the most prestigious Domaine on This Domaine now just south of Beaune, hectares is essentially the Côte d’Or, the Domaine de la Romanée nearly 9 hectares this boasts based in the Meursault Conti is owned by the extended family of in size was reborn some of the most appellation, although Jacques-Marie Duvault and Sophie Blochet, in 2000 under the prized red wine it does produce some and in part by the Leroy family. Since leadership of Louis- producing vineyards excellent Bourgogne 1942, this Domaine owns large slices of Michel Ligier-Belair. of the Côte de Blanc and Auxey- prime Grand Cru vineyards, including Le Its history is much Beaune. Domaine de Montille was originally Duresses red. Jean-Marc Roulot has been Montrachet, Echezeaux, Grands-Echezeaux, longer, however, as founded by Hubert de Montille, a well running the Domaine since 1988, not long Romanée-St-Vivant and Richebourg. The this family was once Louis-Michel Ligier-Belair known lawyer, in the 1960s who acquired after the death of his father, Guy. Guy Roulot Domaine is also sole owner of La Tache and owner of many of Premier Cru vineyards in the Côte de made the Domaine’s early reputation for great Romanée Conti, considered among the very the prestigious vineyard plots of the Côte Beaune. In Burgundy he enjoyed a strong whites after he decided to estate bottle rather top Grand Cru vineyards on the Côte d’Or. de Nuits. Louis-Michel is an agricultural reputation among his peers by producing than sell his wines to négociants. His untimely Aubert de Villaine is the present day leader of engineer and oenologue who has very quickly wines that matched or surpassed those of death in 1984 was a shock, and occurred while the Domaine. Often known simply as DRC, established himself as one of the bright his colleagues further north in the Grand Jean-Marc was becoming a successful actor this domaine has been organic since 1985 and lights of Burgundian . Focussing Cru vineyards of the Côte de Nuits. Etienne in Paris. Winemaking was taken over first by turned fully biodynamic in 2008. on organic and biodynamic winemaking now owns and/or runs three properties in American Ted Lemon and then Franck Grux, techniques, he produces breathtaking Burgundy with his sister Alix. Domaine de now the wine maker for Olivier Leflaive. After wines of energy and elegance, where each Montille in Volnay is the family estate, with Jean-Marc put his acting career on hold and vineyard’s terroir is clear and precise. holdings of just about 10 hectares in and returned to Meursault, he quickly earned the around Volnay, including premier cru sites in reputation of a great maker of white Burgundy. Puligny-Montrachet, Volnay, Pommard and The Domaine has several parcels of Village Beaune. A plot in the grand cru of Corton appellation Meursault, almost all vinified as was recently added. The Domaine has separate lieux-dits, as well as the great Premier been farming organically since 1995 and is Crus of Charmes, Bouchères, Porusots contemplating biodynamic production. and Perrières.

Aubert de Villaine

Etienne and Alix de Montille Jean-Marc Roulot

22 23 Domaine Dujac Domaine Faiveley Domaine Ponsot Domaine Fourrier Domaine Dujac is a Domaine Faiveley This family Domaine Fourrier relatively young business, was founded in 1825 Domaine started (previously known having been started by by Pierre Faiveley in 1872 with the as Pernot-Fourrier) Jacques Seysses in 1967. and has remained in purchase of vines has a long history in The son of a French biscuit the family, now in its in Morey-St- Gevrey Chambertin magnat and gastronome, seventh generation Denis by William extending over four Jacques was a young banker under Erwan Ponsot. Expansion generations and Faiveley. Although when he developed a taste Jeremy Seysses continued through is one of the first for, and a desire to a négociant as the early 20th century under the leadership domains to export its wine to the USA. It is well as a Domaine, the Domaine part of the make, fine wine. After of William’s nephew, Hippolyte. In 1934 also a well-endowed estate with holdings company is larger with a vineyard area of 120 purchasing a small Domaine Ponsot started estate bottling in the most heralded appellations. Having hectares. Faiveley has always focussed on Domaine of 4.5 hectares, and selling their wines, one of the earliest weathered a period of eclipse through producing quality wines true to their specific Jacques has carefully Domaines to do so. In 1942 Jean-Marie the latter part of the 1980s, the domain terroir. With an impressive list of top vineyard purchased vineyard Ponsot joined his father and took control has been re-energized by the arrival of holdings, including no less than 10 Grand Cru in 1957 after Hippolyte retired. Through plots over the years to plots and 29 Premier Cru plots in the Côte Jean-Marie Fourrier. Taking the reins in assemble a Domaine Diana Snowdon-Seysses d’Or—including three Monopoles—Faiveley is the 1960s Jean-Marie was a pioneer in vine 1994, Jean-Marie crafted his reputation that is now slightly more a leading producer, based in Nuits-St-Georges. clone selection. Indeed many of the popular by wisely combining the traditions of his than 15 hectares. Although initially thought Pinot Noir clones used today originate father and uncle (using, for example, vines of as a maverick, Domaine Dujac has created from the vineyard. In 1981 of a minimum 30 years of age for the a strong and loyal following, eventually Jean-Marie’s son Laurent joined the family estate bottlings), his experience gained emerging as a leading Domaine on the Côte business and now runs it in tandem with while working with Henri Jayer and the d’Or. The Domaine is now complemented his sister Rose-Marie. Today the Domaine Domaine Drouhin (in Oregon), and his own by the involvement of sons Jeremy, vineyard comprises just over 11 hectares of vines, with clear sense of winemaking. Ever since his director, and Alec, administration, and nearly 60% in Grand Cru appellations. ascension, the wines of Domaine Fourrier Jeremy’s wife Diana, an oenologist from have garnered critical acclaim. Northern California.

Erwan Faiveley

Laurent Ponsot

24 25 Expert Biographies and Contributors

Experts Fiona Thienpont Morrison M.W. is an independent wine writer and Anthony Hanson’s distinguished career in the wine industry has spanned consultant with over 25 years of international experience in the fine wine several countries and several decades. With over 30 years of experience under business on both sides of the Atlantic. Born in America of British Parents, his belt, Anthony is an authority on Burgundian wines. In 1982, the first she was raised and educated in France and Britain before starting off her edition of Burgundy, Mr. Hanson’s landmark publication, was released. The career first as a journalist and then in the fine wine business. Since her book is believed to have prompted the many changes he describes in the marriage to Jacques Thienpont, négociant and owner of award-winning second edition of his book published in 1995. Anthony has led Le Pin in Pomerol in 1997, Fiona divides her time between Belgium and the Christie’s auction at the Hospices de Beaune for the past five years. Bordeaux. Winner of numerous awards for her wine journalism including the James Beard Award and the Prix Lanson, and co-chairman and organiser Russell Hone is the husband of Becky Wasserman and has been involved of the 2010 Master of Wine Symposium in Bordeaux entitled “Forging Links,” with her business, le Serbet, since the mid-1980s. He has worked in the wine Fiona writes, consults and lectures about wine throughout the world when not working with her trade for nearly 50 years. With a very developed and discerning palate, Russell husband at Le Pin or their recently purchased vineyard on the plateau of Saint Emilion. has also become a wonderful cook, as many whom have enjoyed his cuisine can readily attest. Russell worked in tandem with culinary icon Richard Jasper Morris M.W. developed a reputation as a leading authority on Olney on the Time-Life series of cookbooks. His dry sense of humour and Burgundy while running his own importing business, Morris & Verdin quick wit are a joy to be around. Ltd from 1981 to 2003, at which point he sold the company to Berry Bros & Rudd. Jasper has been a Master of Wine since 1985, was responsible for all the Burgundian entries in the Oxford Companion to Wine and contributes Contributors frequently to The World of Fine Wine Magazine, among other publications. Though a frequent visitor to the principal pinot growing countries of the world, Jasper now mainly divides his time between the UK and Burgundy. His reputation as a Burgundy expert was further enhanced in October 2010 with the publication of Inside Burgundy, a lifetime’s study of the vineyards Jancis Robinson M.W. Sandquist Europe and vignerons of the region, which has subsequently won the prestigious One of a handful of wine communicators Geoff and Lesley Sandquist have, since André Simon award for the best wine book of the year. with an international reputation, 1987, made a career in planning, arranging Jancis Robinson M.W. writes daily for and accompanying deluxe travel. After Becky Wasserman could easily be described as the Grande Dame of Burgundy, at least in its relation to the USA market. After moving to the region over 40 yrs JancisRobinson.com (voted first-ever Wine leading roles at three renowned travel firms, ago, her first foray into the wine industry was as a representative for French oak Website of the Year in the Louis Roederer Geoff launched Sandquist Europe in 2005. barrels from the village of St-Romain. As a wine lover with a discerning palate International Wine Writers Awards 2010), Sandquist Europe tailors private, one-of-a- and a natural curiosity, she soon began to discover the small, lesser-known weekly for The Financial Times, and bi- kind, journeys for discerning travellers that winemakers who were struggling to find footing in a region then dominated monthly for a column that is syndicated seek to experience the cultural, historical, by large négociants. Becky encouraged them to estate bottle, and worked to around the world. She is also editor of The culinary and wine tradition of the iconic open the USA market to their wines. The list of winemakers that benefitted from Becky’s support Oxford Companion to Wine and co-author regions of Western Europe. and marketing reads like a who’s who of fine Burgundy. Becky Wasserman Selections has since with Hugh Johnson of The World Atlas of branched out to include many other fine wine areas, but the focus remains on the small, high- Wine, each of these books recognised as a quality producer. standard reference worldwide.

26 27 For Your Notes

28 29 For Your Notes

30 31 Thank you for attending The Wine Forum’s Champagne and The Wine Forum is an independent, not-for-profit society of Burgundy Excursion excursion. We aim to attain the highest very senior private and public sector leaders who share a standards in everything we do. We will be delighted to hear your passion for fine wine and philanthropy. feedback on how we might improve for next time and what you Our events feature the best wines from the most renowned enjoyed the most. producers and take place in discreet, unique settings. Our next event will be on 21 and 22 October 2011 in Hong Kong. Our members come from many different cultures, religions, Please contact [email protected] or and political philosophies and set aside two or three days a [email protected] for more details. year to attend our events.