Life drinks Life drinks

n the course of my work, I have come across many suitable for producing dry and crisp . lovers, and similar to , there were ups and O’Leary Walker’s 2005, on the other Seeing Red downs in my encounters. I was glad that most were serious hand, impressed me most. Crafted from low-yielding vines LIM HWEE PENG uncorked some of the impressive enough to understand the intricacies of each wine. They grown in the Armagh and Polish Hill River areas of Clare Valley, Ishowed appreciation for the hard work put in by industrious this wine oozes Claret nuances with fruit power to boot! reds that he has tasted in the first quarter of 2008. , who have to toil for four unpredictable seasons in managing one of the most fabulous gifts bestowed by the Of Bordeaux & Almighty. Yet, almost in the same encounter, I have chanced Still on the topic of and Cabernet Sauvignon, I had LIM HWEE PENG, CSW is an experienced upon many others (some even professed to be the pleasure of sampling impressive traditional from the wine educator, certified by CIVB ( and wine professionals) who appeared to be enlightened in all renowned regions - Burgundy Marketing Board) as an International Bordeaux things Gevrey , Pomerol or Tuscany, but were, in and Bordeaux. Wine Educator; a Certified Specialist in Wines fact, mere brand drinkers. First off is the Alex Gambal Chambolle (CSW) from Society of Wine Educators, USA; certified Educators from Napa Valley Vintners As I pondered on such extremes, I was enlightened that Musigny 2002. This Burgundy Association, and recently gained a Diploma such diversity in the wine circle may not be a negative trait. shows class and elegance even for a village- in Burgundy wines from BIVB (Burgundy wine At least, it justified the existence of a diverse wine style to suit level effort. Displaying the staying power of marketing board). Lim’s passion for wine has also every whim and fancy of many wine lovers. 2002 quality and deft been rewarded with two World Gourmet Summit Regional ‘Wine Article of the Year’ awards. Some Nevertheless, rather than being idealistic and lamenting on skills from the Burgundy house, Alex of his current pre-occupations include being the the less-than-professional attitudes of those found wanting, I Gambal Chambolle Musigny 2002 is a facilitator for Singapore Airline (SIA) chose to share and highlight some of the best wines that I have Burgundy rouge that serious Bourgogne group; Wine facilitator for SOPEXA, AUSTRADE tasted during those roller-coaster experiences. lovers should seek out. and Institute. He can be reached at [email protected] I have always enjoyed Bordeaux Red, Red Wines classic in all its different nuances When it comes to red wines in this part of the world, few will (including Left, Right Banks, as well as dispute the attraction of wines made from Pinot Noir, Cabernet Bourgeois and the Cotes wines). Sauvignon, Shiraz and the all-time classic Claret. Clarendelle, a product crafted by the However, it was not the usual suspects that made me realise capable hands which run Chateau Haut Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte Wine Estate the wine world has evolved and become less predictable. Brion, was a Claret that surpassed the Take Pinot Noir as an example; most would regard the holy quality expected of a Bordeaux ‘branded’ grail from Burgundy as the benchmark, yet, wine regions such wines (Mouton Cadet is one example as Central Otago, Martinborough (New Zealand), Oregon of a Bordeaux branded wine). This (USA), Adelaide, Yarra Valley, Mornington wine seeks not power but balance. This Alex Gambal Chambolle Musigny Peninsula (Australia), Russian River, Sonoma 2002 Valley (California, USA), and even Patagonia (Argentina) have been crafting notable Pinot approach seems to reflect Noir wines! the excellence and tradition Are those modern renditions of Pinot of Haut Brion’s heritage. Noir going to take over the reign from Although this wine was Burgundy? I think it is unlikely and will made from an ‘assemblage’ of probably not happen in our lifetime. grapes from the larger part of Nevertheless, my recent experience with Bordeaux, rigourous selection new world Pinot Noir has been more of was carried out before a satisfaction than disappointment. vinification. Clarendelle is, O’Leary Walker, a young wine estate in my opinion, a reliable and hailed from Adelaide Hills, Australia, is Clarendelle fabulous Bordeaux ‘branded’ a case in point. Filled with red fruits and wine. Certainly a must have, cherries, and bursting with freshness, even for a serious Bordeaux wine lover. O’Leary Walker Adelaide Hills Pinot Grand as Chateau Haut Brion is, like many other Noir 2007 may only offer young fruits traditional wine estates, they are facing a different challenge and flavours at the moment, but do not in their current context - space-crunch in Pessac Leognan, discount it as another wannabe. O’Leary where historical are competing for space with the Walker also produces a clean, crisp, fresh encroaching residential and infrastructure developments. and dry Clare Valley Riesling (Polish Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte is another Pessac Leognan O'Leary Walker Hill River 2007), which in my opinion, wine estate managing such urban development challenges. Cabernet Sauvignon reflects Clare’s Valley as a region that is The Cathiard family bought over the estate in 1990 and has

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since built an extended wine-related business – a wine spa Remaining in the same French territory, and hospitality business managed by Daniel Cathiard’s two I have discovered a fun and joyous wine daughters. that was made in the same approach “Although Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte has a deep as L’Elephant. HobNob Shiraz 2006, heritage, in commercial terms, my two daughters’ businesses however, aims to be “approachable, made more money than my wine business!” Daniel Cathiard contemporary and fun.” This wine is candidly shared during our tasting session. excellent at party events, and should be Nevertheless, Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte exhibited class able to match with most Western cuisine and grandeur in all the three that I had tasted. I and local comfort food. have found the 2000 vintage oozes class and concentration, Someone once asked me whether is it although it has also shown some aged nuance; while the 2002 possible to find ‘elegant’ wines in Barossa displayed its beauty with youthfulness, it is the 2004 Smith Valley and McLaren Vale, where it is Haut Lafitte that I found had traditional nuances, elegant and renowned for its power-packed Shiraz. I balanced. Restrained at the time of tasting, yet in its entirety, personally thought that it was a case of Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte 2004 showed depth and long- ‘looking for love in all the wrong places’. HobNob term ageing potential. If ‘elegant’ is Claret-like, filled with refined Shiraz The final Claret that impressed in my recent wine structure, earthiness and minerality, then there is a mismatch adventure was, surprisingly, not from Bordeaux, . In of expectation. Despite its reputation for making Parker- fact, it was an Italian Super- – . In flavoured rich and choc-a-block Shirazes, Barossa Valley and the latest release of its 2005 vintage, Ornellaia unabashedly McLaren Vale can produce wines with balanced flavours. An

Grant Burge Ornellaia Domaine de L'Elephant 2006 Filsell 2005

exhibited its grandness and lusciousness, much like a peacock excellent example is Grant Burge Filsell 2005. flaunting its assets with confidence and proudly basking in This wine, tasted together with Grant Burge, the limelight. displayed fine balance in all its noticeable fruit concentration. The Unconventional As I wrapped up my work week, I wanted I am also constantly on the hunt for wines that go beyond the to reward myself with a nice glass of cool, norm. Luck was on my side and I have found some interesting refreshing . When I proceeded to unconventional wines with one of them having a Singapore my cellar in search of a suitable bubbly, I was connection! attracted to an interesting mortar ammunition Domaine de L’Elephant, a joint effort by Singapore shaped bottle. Champagne Veuve Devaux wine importer, Estima Consulting, with its French partner, Cuvee ‘D’ Brut NV caught my eye not only impresses with its pedigree. This brilliant wine hailed from with its unique bottle-shape, it also showed a potentially high quality wine producing area of southern classiness on the palate. France - Cotes Catalanes, Roussillon. The interestingly This champagne is rich, with yeasti- named wine was created from a blend of 90% , ness, brioche notes, hints of green apple with equal parts and ; it was made and a touch of red fruit. It's a weighty, in a modern style, with lovers in mind. Rich, firm and flavoursome Champagne that I silky, and filled with ripe blackfruits flavours, though only would personally recommend to both seri- into its second vintage, the wine has already found favour Champagne Veuve ous wine lovers as well as brand drinkers. with US wine critics. Devaux Cuvee ‘D’ Brut NV

104 THE EXECUTIVE MAY 2008