> AgglopoleCome Provence and Discover

Lively Itineraries in the Heart of Provence

www.agglopole-provence.fr Alleins•Aurons•La Barben•Berre l’Etang•Charleval•Eyguières La Fare les Oliviers•Lamanon•Lançon-Provence•Mallemort•Pélissanne Rognac•Saint-Chamas•Salon-de-Provence•Sénas•Velaux•Vernègues Before You Set Out While this guide provides as much ­detail as possible, using a GPS is always recommended. To enjoy every step of the way… For your safety and to protect the forests, visitor access to all areas > Don’t hesitate to visit our Tourist Bureaus («Offices de tourisme») mentioned in this guide is regulated from June 1 to September 30. Please for recommendations, guidance, and ideas (accommodations, regional call one day ahead (+33 811 20 13 13), for the forest fire danger level: products, outdoor activities, festivals, and more). orange (open access), red (access between 6 and 11 am only), or black > An audio-guided tour is available for each city and village along the way, (walking, driving, and parking prohibited all day). providing you with detailed commentary on historical monuments and natural habitats. Although this guide has been carefully prepared, it may contain errors or omissions. We The audio-guides can be obtained from the Tourist Bureaus. apologize in advance and ask that you inform us of any incorrect information.

2 3 Lively itineraries in A destination in the heart of Provence… the heart of Provence

17 cities and villages steeped in tradition and millennial savoir-faire, offering remarkable historical sites and a well-preserved natural environment

This brochure describes three circuits—Val de Durance, Étang de Berre, and Collines Salonaises—that will help you discover an exceptional and diverse region: 133 sites and monuments, 18 festivals, 215 eateries including 12 gourmet restaurants. A region where everyone can explore at their own pace and find what they are looking for. Nicolas ISNARD President of Agglopole Provence We’ve put together this guide as a showcase for the rich offering available in Mayor of Salon-de-Provence the cities and villages of the «Agglopole Provence» urban area. This is part of a broader tourism policy to promote our region not only to tourists, but also to its residents, since tourism is an essential driver of economic growth and job creation.

We take this opportunity to thank our tourism professionals who work year- round to offer you quality services and help you discover all the ways you can enjoy our region.

Don’t hesitate to contact our Tourist Bureaus, where you will find information and ideas for the perfect trip or get-away. Philippe GRANGE Vice-President of Agglopole Provence Here’s to lively adventures and rich discoveries! Tourism Delegate Mayor of Alleins

CONTENTS Itinerary 1 Itinerary 2 Itinerary 3 Route du Val de Durance...... 4 Route de l’Etang de Berre...... 14 Route des Collines Salonaises...... 24 • Mallemort...... 5 • Lançon-Provence...... 15 • Pélissanne...... 25 • Sénas...... 7 • Saint-Chamas...... 17 • La Barben...... 27 • Eyguières...... 8 • Berre l’Etang...... 18 • Vernègues...... 29 • Lamanon...... 9 • Rognac...... 19 • Alleins...... 30 • Pont-royal...... 11 • Velaux...... 21 • Aurons...... 32 • Charleval...... 12 • La Fare les Oliviers...... 23 • Salon-de-Provence...... 33 1

Route du Val de Durance Past and Present - Along a Major River in Provence

ITINERARY 1

The Val de Durance Route will take you along the bed of what was once the Durance River, flowing between the Alpilles mountains and the Costes hills, then dropping straight down into the Mediterranean. That was some 12 million years ago. Today, in the alluvial plain and surrounding area, the Durance River supplies water to most of the villages you’ll pass through, via the Craponne, Marseille, and EDF canals, which follow the ancient river’s path. From these waterways, human beings have shaped the countryside: you’ll see cultivated fields, greenhouses, and orchards (apples, pears, cherries) along the way, with the gentle curves of the Luberon and the sharp peaks of the Alpilles rising above you. And remember: you’ll always be surrounded by the history and heritage of water. 4 5 La Durance Lively itineraries in D 23b the heart of Provence SÉNAS MALLEMORT CHARLEVAL

A7 - E714 D 23 D 7n D 561

Grotte Canal EDF D 7n D16 PONT D72 de Calès D17d ROYAL D22 LAMANON EYGUIÈRES D17e

> ROUTE AND STOPS ALONG THE WAY

Start and end point: Mallemort, Place Raoul Coustet Estimated distance: 70 km • D23b and old MallemortLANÇON- DEroad-PROVENCE to Sénas D15 KS • D72 to Eyguières (alternate route via D569) QUICK PIC • D17e to Lamanon D21 > Village Artists • D17d, D16 and N7 to Domaine Pont-Royal You can make an appointment to visit the painting, Canal de Craponne (alternateCanal route EDF via D71b and D71a) sculpture, and pottery studios and galleries in our LA FARE-LES-OLIVIERS • N7 then D22 to Charleval villages. Don’t miss Armelle Andreis’ Provence D10 SAINT-CHAMAS • D561 then D23 to Mallemort (alternate route for the adventurous via landscapes. And for antique lovers,be sure to Colombier and Bramejean) D10 visit the Mas de Chatelan.

D16 More information is available from the Tourist Bureau. D20 Arc A7 - E714 D10 VELAUX

D21b Km 0D55c in Mallemort, Place Raoul Coustet, in front of the Tourist Bureau.

Arc D55 mallemort ALIVE AND WELL ÉTANG DE BERRE D21 > Your itinerary starts with a stroll through the village. ROGNACMallemort was founded two millennia ago, in Roman

BERRE-L’ETANG times. Its name, meaning "bad death" in French, dates to medieval times when bandits roved the nearby forests and marshes swamped the surrounding plain. Thanks to an ingenious irrigation system designed by Adam de Craponne in the 16th century, the plain was fertilized with water from the Durance River. By the early 20th century, the village had become an agricultural capital.

Its narrow streets are still lively today, flowing with energy like the river that Mallemort overlooks from its hilltop perch.

Canal EDF

ALLEINS

D16 D22b

D22d CAZAN D22b

VERNÈGUES D68

D68

D16 A7 - E714 AURONS

D22

D16

SALON-DE-PROVENCE

PÉLISANNE LA BARBEN D22a D572 Val de Durance

Explore the village > Take the Rue Fernand Pauriol into the heart of Old Mallemort, where you'll find the Eglise Saint Michel, a church rebuilt between 1751 and 1756. The surrounding streets are full of historic charm: 18th century facades, cobblestones Balcony view of the Durance along Cours Marius Taché and Rue du > To admire the grandest landscape along your itinerary, walk around Cosmonaute… From the Rue du Château, the church and climb the steep path to a panoramic table. Behind you, you'll get your first glimpse of the plain. the ruins of a 12th century church stand in silence. Before you, the Petit Luberon range and the waters of the Durance share the countryside with farmland. You can also admire the famous suspension bridge built in the mid-19th century.

ON TO THE NEXT STOP Leave the Tourist Bureau on your left and continue straight through the first roundabout. At the second roundabout, go left toward Sénas, taking D23. Just before a major intersection, take the small road to the right. It will lead you into a typical Provence countryside on the fertile banks of the Durance. High cypress and poplar trees line the road to protect the fields and orchards from the wind. The Petit Luberon rises on your right. You’ll reach a crossroads after around 4 kilometers; go straight through. The old Mallemort road ends after 8 kilometers; take a right on N7, then go straight until Sénas. After a roundabout, follow the signs for the city center, then turn right on Cours Jean-Jaurès. Km 9. Sénas, cours Jean Jaurès 7 In front of the Tourist Bureau / Théâtre de l’Eden 6 Itinéraires admirables au coeur de la Provence Q KS SeNAS UICK PIC > Théâtre de l’Eden Behind its art deco façade, this STILL VIBRANT theater was once home to a movie house as well as a supermarket. Now dedicated to the performing > Nestled among orchards and market arts, the 200-seat venue offers a gardens, not far from the Alpilles and dense and varied program for all Luberon ranges, Sénas has a long history comers from September to June. dating back to the dawn of humanity… Tel. +33 (0)4 90 57 79 36 The prehistoric steles from the site bear witness to its early use and are currently on display at the Musée Calvet, a museum in Avignon. The village also features more recent historical monuments: Eglise Saint-Armand, a church with 18th century frescos, the Pont de la Pierre wash house, and the Pont du Bosquet bridge. Known for its many festivals throughout the year, Sénas also boasts one of the region’s finest country markets. ON TO THE NEXT STOP Return along Cours Jean-Jaurès in the opposite direction. Turn right toward Eyguière (be careful, the sign is difficult to see). Cross railroad Nature's abundance tracks and go straight toward Eyguière. Gradually, the orchards > Along the plane trees that line Place Auguste Jaubert, and rows of trees give way to large more than 40 local producers gather for a market featuring cultivated fields, olive groves, and the rich harvests of the Durance plain. Nearly everything in stretches of pine and almond trees. the stands is grown within a radius of 30 kilometers. The Tour des Opies, highest point Whatever the season, you'll find plenty of variety, excellent of the Alpilles (498 meters) can be quality, and producers with an organic or integrated seen against the horizon. On your approach. In addition to fruits and vegetables, the offering right, the millennium-old ruins of includes regional products, fish, Queen Jeanne’s castle bakery goods, cut flowers, stand atop a rocky peak. After a bend in the and garden plants. road, you will come to You can experience the colors, scents, Eyguières. In the village, and tastes of Provence, follow the signs for all in one place, every morning except Miramas. A little further Sunday during the summer (June 1 along, on the left, is a to September 30), and on Monday, parking area at Place Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday Monier. the rest of the year. Val de Durance

Km 17. Eyguières, place Monier To reach the Tourist Bureau, take the arched pedestrian passageway on the north side of the Place, cross the Rue Raoul Jauffret, and climb the narrow street behind the fountain (Fontaine Cocotte).

eyguieres

AND ITS THREE SPRINGS

> "L'aigo fai veni poulit", which in Provençal means, "Water beautifies." This slogan, attributed to Frédéric Mistral, has been adopted by Eyguières, gateway to the Alpilles. Situated between the Plaine de la Crau and the Durance River, the village is supplied by three • Waterways Circuit : springs: La Gilouse, La Borme, and La Fontvieille. Make a reservation for a You won't regret a stroll through Eyguières' streets, free guided tour admiring manor houses and enjoying the lush setting. Groups: €2 / person As you'll discover, the course of history in this village More info at the Tourist Bureau has been traced by water.

Fountain by fountain > Eyguières offers you a circuit of 10 spots where water flows underfoot. You can book a guided tour or visit on your own. Along the way, you'll see five of the village's seven fountains, including the Fontaine Coquille, bearing the scallop symbol of the Way of St. James (the GR6 hiking path goes through Eyguières). Also en route: the Porte ON TO Calade, which protected the entrance to THE NEXT STOP the village in the Middle Ages, the library A detour via Vallon des Glauges is in the restored oil mill, Église Notre- recommended. Dame-de-Grâce with its rare stained glass From Place Monier, take D17 toward Aureille. windows and beautiful altars, and the Croix Pass through the tunnel of plane trees along de L’Hirondelle, the most well known of the cemetery with its carefully pruned yews. the many shrines and crosses in Eyguières. After 1 kilometer, there is a sign for Vallon on the right. Take Chemin de Saint-Pierre, then Chemin des Glauges. Vallon des Glauges, postcard perfect 9 > From the road you’ll discover the natural paradise of a Mediterranean Itinéraires admirables landscape, dotted with olive trees and lined with vineyards. The valley au coeur de la Provence is named for a wild iris native to this type of scrubland terrain, known as the "garrigue". On the right, the lacy limestone of Coste Fère; on the left, the mineral peaks of the Opies. Millions of years ago, a river flowed here: the Durance. Several hikes leave from this valley (GR6, Mont Menu, and others). After around 1 kilometer, you'll reach the Domaine du Vallon des Glauges, which offers high-quality olive oil and award-winning wines, all of them AOC (certified origin) and made using Domaine du Vallon des Glauges sustainable practices. Continue a little • Tél. 04 90 59 81 45 further and you'll reach the start of the • www.vallondesglauges.com path to the Tour des Opies with its extraordinary vistas.

Km 31. Lamanon, Parking at the Maison du Temps Libre. To reach to the center of the village, go back along the road lined with plane trees.

lamanon

AT THE FOOT OF A FOREST

> Located where the Durance once flowed, Lamanon was created in 1745 when some 50 houses sprang up around a castle built in 1660 by the Lamanon de Cadenet family. This charming village remains surrounded by trees and extends lengthwise along the foot ON TO of a hill where a forest of oak and evergreen THE NEXT STOP trees conceals an exceptional site. Take the road directly back to Eyguières. At the roundabout with the Virgin Mary, continue straight on, toward Lamanon. On your right, beyond a vast olive grove, the Crau Salonaise plain can be seen. The contour of the Alpilles gradually softens. After 30 kilometers, you’ll see a residential area surrounded by a forest as you approach Lamanon. When you reach the roundabout at the entrance to the village, turn right toward Salon-de-Provence. On your left towers the Giant of Provence (more later)… Turn left immediately toward the parking area. Val de Durance

Calès : in the presence of history > From the village, a cobblestone path leads up the hill. The layers of stone reveal the site's successive occupants: Romans in a military fort in the 5th century, a Catalan lord in Giant of provence : his medieval castle in the 12th century, villagers until the 16th century. You will soon see a ring of sandstone with strange a natural monument cavities: the caves of Calès. Originally a quarry for building the > This oriental plane tree, the largest in Europe (20 castle, the site was fashioned into 116 cave dwellings, home meters high and 7.5 meters around) was supposedly th to 200 occupants at the end of the 13 century. planted by Catherine de Medici, who was passing To understand how this community functioned, and to follow through Lamanon on her way to hear Nostradamus' the site's history from the Neolithic Era onward, a guided tour predictions in Salon-de-Provence. This legend is recommended. If you visit on your own, set aside at least two hours to fully would make the tree 400 years old, while it is appreciate the site's historic and natural treasures, unique probably closer to 300… Please admire this giant in France, namely the Chapelle Saint-Denis, built around from a distance, since it lives on private property. the same time as the medieval castle and well restored, the Plateau Saint-Jean with its panoramic view of the Alpilles range, Mont Ventoux, and the Alps themselves. Please note: certain areas of the site are dangerous. Be sure to carefully follow the recommendations on the visitor boards. Back in the village, you can visit the Musée Calès, a museum located in the "Le Cabaret" mansion, also home to the Tourist Bureau.

Association Calès Saint-Denis • Tél. 06 76 51 76 22 • [email protected] • www.cales-lamanon.fr • Admission to the Musée Calès is free • Calès tours are guided by volunteers. Available for groups of at least 15 people. 11 10 Lively itineraries in the heart of Provence

ON TO THE NEXT STOP Head towards Alleins via D17d. After about 2 kilometers, turn right, continuing toward Alleins. The road passes over the EDF canal. Farmland extends between the Petit Luberon range in Km 41. Pont Royal, entrance to the distance and the garrigue the Domaine de Pont-Royal scrubland of the Roque Rousse pont-royal hills. You’ll see fruit trees and greenhouses along the way. STYLE AND CHARM

> Today a pedestrian-friendly vacation spot with 3500 inhabitants in the summer, Pont-Royal was once a simple hamlet, founded in the Middle Ages. In the 13th century, the Vernègues mill was the grain mill for the local nobility. Later, the site became a stopping point for stagecoaches. Pont-Royal now boasts an elegant 4-star hotel and restaurant. Guests can take advantage of 180 hectares reserved for outdoor sports, part of lands where King René of Anjou hunted in the 15th In Alleins, follow the signs for century. the city center, then Pont-Royal, then Mallemort via D16. Turn right onto N7 toward Pont-Royal. The entrance to the Domaine de Swing in the sttun Pont-Royal, a golf course and > This is the only golf course in France designed recreational area, is via D561 by Severiano Ballesteros and features 18 holes following a large roundabout. surrounded by Mediterranean and pine forests, against a mountainous backdrop. The domain's entrance runs alongside the verdant fairway for holes 4 and 5. The course is played by amateurs and professionals alike and hosts the Masters 13, Pont-Royal an international tournament held annually. The most Village-club Pierre&Vacances recent addition to the site is the Durance 6 training • Tél. 0 892 70 01 30 center, giving golfers the best tools to learn • www.pierreetvacances.com and perfect their game. • www.golf-pontroyal.com Val de Durance

ON TO THE NEXT STOP Km 52. Charleval, Back at the roundabout, follow the signs for place André Leblanc, Cazan via N7. One kilometer after Cazan, turn In front of the Tourist Bureau left toward Charleval. The road is initially flanked by vineyards, then runs alongside the forest of Charleval, at the foot of the Costes hills. To the left you can still see the Charleval Petit Luberon as well as farmland extending across the plain. When you reach Charleval, take Avenue du Bois, then turn right onto RURAL BUT REMARKABLE Avenue Gaston Roux, and continue until reaching Place André Leblanc. > Founded in 1741 by César de Cadenet for the families that worked his lands, Charleval reflects the rectilinear design of its creator. The streets around the castle, a hunting lodge at the time, were laid out using a mason's line, and the result is unique among historical villages in Provence. Agriculture plays an important role in Charleval today, as seen in its gardens, orchards, and fields. Open and family-centered, the village also caters to leisure activities and outdoor sports, offering an adventure course and a swimming pool in the forest.

Historic district : geometry in bloom > The Avenue du Château is the central artery of Old Charleval. It runs all the way to the Canal de Craponne, below the castle's 19th century facade, and offers a fine view of the village's carefully aligned streets. A walk along the canal is also accessible from this road. In the village, you can linger at fountains and admire houses decorated with flowers, as well as the neoclassical schools and town hall, the church built in 1745 or the public library, which is housed in the old mill. 13 Glimpse the past as you hike 12 Lively itineraries in > From the Tourist Bureau parking area, you can walk the heart of Provence to a way-marked trail in the Charleval Forest (a nature trail also runs along the edge of the woods) that makes a 5h30 loop between the valleys and hilltops of the Massif des Costes. Garrigue scrubland and oak forests give way to natural gardens, with numerous views of the Luberon and Alpilles ranges, the Durance plain, Pont-Royal, and Vernègues. Along the way, you'll notice the Valbonnette and Bonneval-Taillaides ON TO castles, vestiges of a time when Charleval was limited THE NEXT STOP to the hills, having not yet spread to the plain. From the parking lot, turn right onto Avenue de Libération. You’ll see the vineyards of the Domaine de Sainte-Croix winery on your left. At D561, turn left toward La Roque d’Anthéron. A few hundred meters further on, look for a little road on your left (D22) and turn there. Randonnées Topo 13, After passing rapidly through garrigue scrub, you’ll enter the plain • Chaîne des Côtes, Charleval, du côté de la Durance with its farmland. Document disponible à l’Office de tourisme ou sur www.visitprovence.com

Choose between two possibilities: • At the first crossroads, turn left on D23 and head directly to Mallemort. • Or, continue straight into the valley and take local roads along the river, fields, and greenhouses and through the rural hamlets of Colombier, Hautes et Basses Royères, Capriers, and Bramejean. You’ll eventually end up on D23. This route is picturesque, but longer and with few road signs. It’s a good idea to have a map or a GPS. Either way, at around kilometer 68 you’ll pass by the Mallemort fishing pond, a relaxing stop with a waterside restaurant and plenty of trout for fishers of all ages. To return to Mallemort, stay right after the EDF canal. At the intersection, head left toward the village. Continue straight until the light. Turn left, then go right at the next roundabout. You’ve come full circle. Route de l'Etang de Berre An Inland Coast

ITINERARY 2

The Étang de Berre Route brings you into contact with a coastline and a long history. During the Roman Empire, a canal was dug to connect this «étang» or estuary with the Mediterranean, and civilizations ever since have left their mark. You’ll also discover a rich natural environment. One of a kind in France, this ecosystem is a mosaic of fragile terrains, where saltwater meets the freshwater of rivers and streams. As for the landscape, you’ll enjoy its color and variety, from the sparkling shores of estuary’s «inland sea,» to the richness of the farmland on the alluvial plain, to the hidden paths through the hills. La Durance

D 23b SÉNAS MALLEMORT CHARLEVAL D 23 A7 - E714 D 7n D 561

D 7n Canal EDF Grotte D16 ONT D17d P D72 de Calès ROYAL D22 LAMANON EYGUIÈRES D17e

LANÇON-DE-PROVENCE D15 15 D21 14 Lively itineraries in Canal de Craponne Canal EDF the heart of Provence LA FARE-LES-OLIVIERS D10 Route de l'Etang de Berre SAINT-CHAMAS D10

D16

D20 Arc A7 - E714 D10 VELAUX

D21b D55c

D55 Arc

D21 ÉTANG DE BERRE ROGNAC

BERRE-L’ETANG

> ROUTE AND STOPS ALONG THE WAY

Start and end point: Lançon-Provence, Place Saint-Cyr Km 0. Lançon-Provence, Place Saint-Cyr Estimated distance: 75 km To reach the Tourist Bureau, take Avenue • D15 to Saint-Chamas Saint-Cyr. • D10 and D21b to Berre l’Etang • D21 to Rognac • D55 and D55c to Velaux LanCon-Provence • D20 and D10 to La Fare les CanalOliviers EDF A RICH HERITAGE • D10 then D21 to Lançon ALLEINS

D16 D22b > Already in existence during the D22d CAZAN D22b Neolithic Era, Lançon expanded in th VERNÈGUES Roman times. In the 12 century, it D68 was integrated into the domain of

D68 the Baux, one of the most powerful medieval families in Provence. A castle D16 A7 - E714 AURONS was built and villagers settled nearby

D22 in the 14th and 15th centuries. D16 Lançon continued to grow, blessed with abundant natural SALON-DE-PROVENCE resources. In the old city center PÉLISANNE LA BARBEN D22a with its historic architecture D572 is where your journey begins… Etang de Berre

ON TO THE NEXT STOP Take Avenue de Saint-Cyr. Turn left at the light, then follow the signs to Saint-Chamas. Vineyards, prairies, and groves of trees can be seen to the right; to the left, the Lançon hills rise over the mound that conceals the EDF canal. A dialogue between agriculture and nature unfolds around you. After 4 History and charm kilometers, you’ll see the hilltop village of Cornillon-Confoux on your right. The countryside grows more hilly > Starting from the Tourist Bureau, set off on and dense as you approach the a loop through several centuries, with ten Étang de Berre estuary. stops from the Middle Ages to the 1800s. On one street, named Rue Pavé d'Amour, you'll find facades from the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries. The Renaissance-style Maison des Templiers (Templar House, aka Hôtel de Foresta) dates from the 16th century and is a designated historic monument. Walking along the Rue Puits de Picard, behind the medieval castle, you'll make out the contours After passing through handsome of the old fortifications. On the esplanade at stands of trees, you’ll see the Parc the end of the Rue de la Tour, a panoramic Communal des Creusets on your table illustrates the magnificent view of the left. Go through two roundabouts Salon plain and the airbase, set against and you’ll arrive in Saint-Chamas. At the next roundabout (with the Pont S rolling hills, along with the sharper profile of QUICK PICK the Alpilles. From street to street, discover Flavien bridge on your right), follow stately facades, doorways, and mansions the signs for the city center and take > Denis Nayrac as well as religious edifices. There is also Avenue René Seyssaud toward the This artist blacksmith invites an archeology museum and a museum harbor. You’ll have a moment to you to visit his workshop dedicated to Provençal art and tradition. discover the Saint-Chamas cove as and share his passion for The entire village is steeped in history and you skirt the recreational harbor. At a triangular junction, keep left to reach metalworking. You’ll find the subject of many anecdotes, and you'll the fishing harbor. a number of works and have the choice of a guided tour or an sculptures on permanent audio-guided tour. The village also puts on display in his unusual space. historical re-enactments with professional www.denis-nayrac.com actors in full costume. Km 10. Saint-Chamas, place du 8 mai 1945 17 To reach the Tourist Bureau, leave the harbor behind 16 you and take Rue Marcel Bœuf by foot. After five Lively itineraries in the heart of Provence streets, you’re there.

QUICK PICKS Saint-Chamas > Marius Bernard A historic player STIRRING IMPRESSIONS in Saint-Chamas’ economy, this > What makes the geography of Saint-Chamas producer of Provençal so unique is Baou Hill, containing cobalt oxide food items and deposits and topped with limestone. From the specialties recently th 5th to 16 centuries, the villagers lived perched celebrated its 50th on this hill, protected by fortifications. Later, anniversary. The two village districts developed at the foot of factory, known in the the hill: Pertuis on the estuary side, and Delà area for its appetizing on the land side. The contrasts of the setting aroma, can be visited attracted painters in the 19th century, including a on request. major precursor of fauvism, René Seyssaud, who www.marius-bernard.fr spent the end of his life in Saint-Chamas. The village is delightful to visit and remains home to many artists, exposing in galleries as well as the Chapelle Saint-Pierre and the municipal museum. A wealth of sites and monuments > Saint-Chamas offers its visitors a dozen historic and natural sites. The Pont Flavien bridge, a designated A touch of the exotic historic monument from the 1st century BC, is the local showpiece and a reminder of the importance that trade > When you reach the Place du 8 Mai on the between Massilia (Marseille) and Arelate (Arles) once had. Saint-Chamas harbor, you’ll find a fishing What used to be the Poudrerie is now a 120-hectare village ambience at least as authentic as in park. The gunpowder factory and its grounds have been Mediterranean villages. Mullet and bass are transformed into a relaxing space for walking and enjoying a wealth of biodiversity. caught in the estuary, a sign of the renaissance enjoyed by local traditional fishers. Looking up, you’ll see that the Baou is dotted with bay windows. Dug in the early 17th century for the most part, its caves first served as storage areas. Today, around twenty of them are cozy apartments, including a furnished vacation rental. Etang de Berre

ON TO THE NEXT STOP

Drive along the recreational harbor. At the intersection, go straight and continue along the gulf. On the right, before a curve in the road, you’ll see the 18th century Lavoir des Contagieux, where the sick came to do their washing, far from the village. At the first roundabout, turn left; at the second, go straight to return to the entrance of Saint-Chamas. Turn right on D10 toward Berre. After a final roundabout, you’ll see the estuary in all its splendor. On your right, the Petite Camargue Km 31. Berre l’Étang, avenue du 8 mai 1945 BERRE l’étang To reach the Tourist Bureau, walk to the tip of the parking area, take the avenue that heads off to the left, and return to the roundabout. Turn BEACHES AND BOATING right onto Avenue Roger Salengro. > The industrial prominence of Berre l’Étang is part of its recent history. In fact, its shores have been occupied since the Neolithic Era, as indicated by traces of a settlement near the Champigny beach. From the 11th century on, Berre was marshland is home to plants and considered a highly desirable location. Today it owes its appeal to several animals that are both fragile and precious. hectares of vineyards and garden farms, 15 kilometers of well-preserved Your itinerary continues between the estuary coastline, a way of life rich in traditions and festivities, and its inhabitants' and the garrigue scrubland of the La Fare hills. shared penchant for floral decorations. At kilometer 20, follow the signs and take D21b toward Berre. The road runs along the estuary, through a plain planted with crops and dense rose gardens. After 3 kilometers, a road to the Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Caderot right (directly in front of the Fouré-Lagadec buildings) will take you to a beach, the Plage de > Situated at Berre's entrance via D21 and close to the cemetery, this chapel is the Champigny, with its palm trees, pleasure boats, city's second oldest monument. Built in the 2nd century on the foundations of a pagan bistros, and views of Saint-Chamas. This is the temple, it was already documented by the 3rd century. In 1591, during the religious perfect spot for a swim in the Étang de Berre wars, it was partially destroyed by the Italians. In the 17th century, an identical chapel estuary. After the hamlet of Mauran, you’ll see a was rebuilt, with no change in the blueprints aside from the roof, originally made of flat succession of vineyards, farmlands, and prairies, stones. The chapel was used during pilgrimages until the middle of the 19th century. then you’ll enter Berre. Go straight at the first It is 32 meters long and contains a magnificent raised altar in the Renaissance style roundabout, then follow the signs for the city dating from 1507, with a statue of the Virgin Mary in Carrara marble, a tabernacle, and center at the next intersection. At the second sculptured stalls. According to legend, in 1325, a majestic bull swam across the Étang roundabout, follow the signs for the Tourist de Berre, climbed out of the water, and stopped at the foot of a juniper shrub, known as Bureau. From the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, turn a "cade" in the Provençal language. Certain peasants followed the bull to the shrub left and follow the and found an urn containing writings, a lock of hair, and a crystal vase filled with milk Avenue du 8 Mai from the Virgin Mary. Struck by this sign, the peasants built an oratory on the spot, 1945 until you which would eventually become the famous Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Caderot. reach a parking area. 19 1 Lively itineraries in the heart of Provence

Km 35. Rognac, boulevard Frédéric Mistral

Rognac Walking paths FROM SHORELINE TO HILLTOP > The Étang de Berre is surrounded by a highly diverse landscape that links to most of the region's hills and mountains. A vast network of walking paths extends > Surrounded by contrasts, the along its shores. One of them, 8.8 kilometers long inhabitants of the Rognac area have and inaugurated in 2012, is accessible all year-round adopted various ways of life over time. and enables walkers to explore the estuary. Fishers and hunters occupied the shores This path begins at the wine cooperative of the estuary 5000 years ago. Later, ("cave cooperative") in Berre l’Étang, Ligurians established a village on the then leads to the mouth of the Arc plain and a refuge on the plateau. The River via the shores of the estuary. It Romans also had several domains, returns to its starting point along the and around 1000 there was a feudal Arc. In the medium term, this path will castle and its village. In the 15th century, be part of various initiatives around the hamlets dotted the fertile land along estuary enabling walkers to discover the estuary, eventually giving rise to the local flora and fauna. current city. Today Rognac is a dynamic community that extends from the estuary to the hills.

ON TO THE NEXT STOP

Exit the parking area and stay right at the junction. You’ll see the Parc Henri Fabre to the right a little further on. At the roundabout, as you head toward Rognac via D21, you’ll notice Berre’s huge petrochemical complex, the largest in Europe (for a tour, contact the Tourist Bureau). The eastern part of the estuary, the Étang de Vaïne, will be on your right, and when you reach Rognac, you’ll see the Marais de la Tête Noire, a vast and well-preserved marshland (17 hectares). From here, two routes are possible: either turn right on D113 and follow the Étang de Vaïne until the Rognac marina, or continue straight on toward a vast plateau with limestone cliffs. If you go straight, you’ll leave D21 on the right and head toward the center of Rognac. As you leave D21, take an immediate left and pass under the railroad tracks. Take another left onto Boulevard Frédéric Mistral. From there, you can either take the second road on your right (Boulevard Aristide Briand) to explore Rognac (church, cultural center, dovecote, oratory) or continue straight on toward the plateau. Etang de Berre

Plateau de Rognac: a giant panorama > There are parking areas at every level of the plateau. On the first level, vineyards alternate with fields of olive trees. Although devastated by fires in 2004, the forest is gradually growing back. You can take a path to the foot of the Rognac Cross that overlooks the city. On the second level you’ll find the most beautiful view along this route. It includes the Étang de Berre, of course, but also Mont Ventoux to the northwest, the La Fare hills, and the La Nerthe limestone formations to the south. The contrast between the urban shoreline and the tranquil wilderness of the heights is striking. Welcome to the Plateau de l’Arbois. The recently inaugurated GR2013 hiking path crosses this magnificent site on its way to the TGV train station to the east. This location marks the starting point, or an intermediary point for many pedestrian or cycling paths through the hills, where the Rognac Cascade awaits you. The Massif de l’Arbois is vast area covering 2000 hectares where a rich variety of plants and animals are protected and preserved, notably Bonelli’s eagle, emblematic and rare. ON TO THE NEXT STOP Return to Boulevard F. Mistral and turn right onto Avenue Gustave Courbet. At the first roundabout go right; at the second, continue straight on toward Velaux. The road runs along the plateau through fields of olive trees. You’ll soon see the long facade of Velaux, extending across the hill with its tower standing above it.

You’ll come to a roundabout with a sign for Velaux to the right, a few meters before the olive oil cooperative, which is open to the public. 21 Km 54. Velaux, place François Caire 20 Lively itineraries in the heart of Provence Velaux

HILLTOP STROLL

> Walk through Velaux along the "Itinéraire des Flâneries" and discover its many heritage sites, including a church, Église Saint-Trophime, a bell tower, the Plateau de La Velaux olive oil, for discerning Palun, and the 19th century palates town hall. In the 1980s, the 14th century tower that > The most recent of the dominates the old historic village's three oil mills is one of district became the city's first the rare facilities in Provence museum. Its collections are to still use granite millstones dedicated to the history of and presses. The harvest from Velaux and its archeological some 1000 olive growers makes sites, including Roquepertuse. it possible to produce a wide From the city's terraces, you'll selection of traditional oils each have an excellent view of year. You'll find organic oils, oils the Étang de Berre and the with the Aix-en-Provence surrounding countryside. At certified-origin label, as well as the Moulin Seigneurial, a various traditional specialties former oil mill converted into from local artisans. a museum, you'll find fossils of Atsinganosaurus velauciensis. Coopérative oléicole de Velaux The only specimen of this • Tél. 04 42 46 31 07 Late Cretaceous dinosaur was • www.moulindevelaux.com discovered in Velaux. ON TO THE NEXT STOP ON TO THE NEXT STOP From the historic district, leave Place The road gently climbs to the François Caire on your left and drive down village. Along the way, you’ll see Avenue de la Gare. Follow the signs for a few vineyards and planted fields Coudoux at the fork. At the four towers, in the foothills. After the cemetery, take the avenue on the right. Just before go straight at the first intersection, you cross the railroad tracks, take the then left at the second. Continue little road to the right and drive to the sign along Avenue de la République for the Roquepertuse site. Take the path until the parking area at Place from the parking area, along the forest. Jean-Baptiste Comte, or at Place The site is a few hundred meters further Bon Puits, or until you reach Place on, to the left. François Caire. Etang de Berre Moulin à huile de la Fare : three centuries and counting > Located in an attractive country house, the La Faire oil mill is the region's oldest still in operation. Completed in 1710, it withstood hard times and bad weather, becoming a cooperative in 1925. Under the arched ceiling of the boutique, you'll find products from the nearby olive groves : Aix-en-Provence certified-origin oils, a traditional blend of four varieties, and single- varietal oils (Aglandau, Picholine, Salonenque).

Moulin à huile de la Fare • Tél. 04 90 57 65 07 • www.lemoulindelafare.fr Oppidum of Roquepertuse : across millennia > Set against a plateau of almond trees, overlooking the Arc River valley, this designated historic monument reveals traces of occupation dating back to the Neolithic Era, as well as two periods of village life, in the 5th and 3rd centuries BC, when a Celto-Ligurian settlement covered more than 5000 m² of the site. The discovery of several sculpted items from this period has given the site international standing. Explicative panels are installed among the vestiges to enrich your understanding. The destruction of the settlement around 200 BC remains a mystery.

ON TO ON TO THE NEXT STOP THE NEXT STOP Return to the main avenue and drive until Return to where the road crosses reaching Cours Charles Galland. Park in the the railroad tracks and take D20 on center of La Fare les Oliviers. the other side, toward La Fare les Oliviers. Go left at the roundabout. To the right, you’ll have a pretty view of the La Fare hills, while on the left you can still see the foothills of Velaux. As you approach La Fare les Oliviers, around kilometer 65, you’ll see a sign indicating the oil mill on the left. 23 22 Lively itineraries in the heart of Provence

ON TO THE NEXT STOP Take La Fare’s main avenue. At the roundabout leaving the village, take D10 toward Saint-Chamas. The road travels through the agricultural heartland Km 67. La Fare les Oliviers, cours Charles Galland of Lançon-Provence. You’ll see various wine estates (Château-Virant, then Château Calissanne and Domaine de Suriane closer to Saint-Chamas) as well as greenhouses and olive groves. You can make an appointment to visit any of these La Fare les Oliviers producers (further information at the Lançon OIL COUNTRY Tourist Bureau) and/or buy their products directly. Around kilometer 70, a fork to the right leads to Lançon. It climbs into hills > The Romans were the first known inhabitants of the La Fare plain. In the surrounded by a flat garrigue scrubland Middle Ages, the population moved to the heights and settled around dotted with kermes oaks and rosemary the castle. Its ruins, which you can still visit today, are spread over three shrubs. levels around a outcropping of rock above the village. Under the Forbin You’ll notice only a scattering of rocks th family, which came to power in the 14 century, the villagers irrigated and here and there until reaching the Rocher cultivated the land, and La Fare enjoyed a degree of prosperity from its de Château-Virant, an impressive rock vineyards, its garden farming, its grains and, of course, its olive trees. For formation on your left. many years, agriculture was its main source of wealth. Today, La Fare is a There is a parking area where you can enjoy village in a spacious natural setting that features the like-named hills. a marvelous panorama, the last one on this scenic You can hike, mountain bike, go rock climbing, or even try orienteering. route. Gaze at the Étang de Berre one last time, and beyond it, to the southeast, at Montagne Sainte- Victoire. Now it’s time to head back down to Lançon. Wine cooperative > Here you'll find affordable wines of very good quality (17 medal-winners in 2014). The cooperative's construction in 1929 marked a turning point in the village's agricultural activities. Initiated by the cold winter that same year and confirmed by similar conditions in 1956, the olive groves were gradually replaced by vineyards. The cooperative At kilometer 75, you’ve arrived. Cross the national produces nearly 15,000 hectoliters highway (notice, on your left, Chapelle Saint-Cyr, a of wine each year. treasure trove of Romanesque art). Take the little Cave coopérative road parallel to the highway until you reach the • 04 90 42 61 47 impressive wine cooperative of Lançon. • www.vignerons-castellas.fr Route des Collines Salonaises Charm and Adventure - The Costes Hills

ITINERARY 3

The Collines Salonaises Route will lead you from islands of garrigue to the cultivated valleys of the Costes hills, with a lovely finish that descends into the Val de Cuech forest and on to Salon-de- Provence. You’ll see olive trees, evergreen oaks, Aleppo pines, and junipers along the way, all part of a varied and beautiful landscape. This is Provence as you’ve always hoped to find it, the familiar images along with real surprises as you discover its villages, historical sites, regional specialties, artists, artisans, and its diversity of natural settings. La Durance

D 23b SÉNAS MALLEMORT CHARLEVAL D 23 A7 - E714 D 7n D 561

D 7n Canal EDF Grotte D16 ONT D17d P D72 de Calès ROYAL D22 LAMANON EYGUIÈRES D17e

LANÇON-DE-PROVENCE D15

D21

Canal de Craponne Canal EDF LA FARE-LES-OLIVIERS D10 SAINT-CHAMAS D10

D16

D20 Arc A7 - E714 D10 VELAUX

D21b D55c

D55 Arc

D21 ÉTANG DE BERRE ROGNAC

BERRE-L’ETANG

Canal EDF

LLEINS 25 A 24 D16 D22b Lively itineraries in the heart of Provence D22d CAZAN D22b > VERNÈGUES ROUTE AND STOPS ALONG THE WAY D68 Staring point: Pélissanne, Parc Roux-de- D68 Brignoles D16 End point: Salon-de-Provence, Cours Gimon A7 - E714 AURONS Estimated distance: 42 km D22 • D22a to La Barben

D16 • D22 via Cazan and D22b to Vernègues • D22b, D22d and D16 to Alleins SALON-DE-PROVENCE • D16 and D68 to Aurons

PÉLISANNE • D68 and D16 to Salon-de-Provence LA BARBEN D22a D572

Km 0. Pélissanne, parc Roux-de-Brignoles, in front of the Tourist Bureau

PeLISSANNE

HISTORICAL CROSSROADS

> Vestiges of the village's first inhabitants were discovered at the archeological site near the Chapelle Saint-Laurent-de-Cabardel and date back to prehistoric times (around 4000 BC). In Roman times, Pélissanne became a crossroads of commercial exchange. The Via Aurelia and other roads (the intentionally rutted Voie des Côtes and Voie de Redourtière) linked it to major Roman cities; some sections of these roads are still visible today. The 16th century brought agricultural progress with the construction of the Canal de Craponne. Pélissanne prospered beyond its fortifications. The 15th century ramparts, which give the village center its circular shape, were absorbed into mansions built later on. Collines Salonaises From era to era > Your journey begins with a stroll in old Pélissanne. The facades are often marked by architectural styles of different periods: 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries on Place Cabardel, for example, next to the bell tower. Renaissance style houses and a number of well-preserved mansions will catch your eye, as well as the Fontaine du Pélican (designated historic monument built in 1769), the wash house, the church rectory QUICK PICKS with its 17th century entrance, a neoclassical church, the Église Saint- > Pélissanne’s Market Maurice, and the Chapelle des Pénitents Visit this market on Sundays, when Gris. the streets of the village fill with local and organic producers as well as artists and artisans.

From the moulin Jean Bertrand to the moulin des costes > Up to the 19th century, there was intense milling activity on the Canal de Craponne and the neighboring Touloubre River. Though recently built, the Moulin des Costes stands next to the cross vaults of the Moulin Jean Bertrand, which included a flour mill built in 1775 and an oil mill built in 1786. Both the old and new facilities can be visited on request. Moulin des Costes oil has won the ON TO most medals of any French olive THE NEXT STOP oil, recognized numerous times during the prestigious Concours Leave the Parc Roux-de-Brignoles, Général Agricole competition. In go back up Boulevard Gambetta the boutique you'll find an Aix-en- and turn left on Avenue du Général Provence certified-origin oil with de Gaulle. At the roundabout, go green fruity notes, a "Tradition" straight toward La Barben. With oil with black fruity notes, as well hedges at regular intervals and a as a single-varietal oil. canopy of plane trees, the road passes by a series of residential Moulin des Costes hamlets. After 2 kilometers, you’ll • Tél. 04 90 55 30 00 see La Barben. • www.moulindescostes.com 27 26 Lively itineraries in the heart of Provence Château de La Barben • Tél. 04 90 55 25 41 • [email protected] • www.chateau-de-la-barben.fr • Tours by guides in period dress, educational games for children. • Theme-based events and activities. • Bed and breakfast accommodations.

Km 2. La Barben, place Jean Moulin

NATURAL MAJESTY Château de La Barben : La BarIben a historic jewel > Initially a medieval fortress for King René of Anjou > La Barben is situated on the banks of the Touloubre and the Marquis de Forbin, the castle became a simple River. A calm and densely wooded village, it comes residence in the 17th century. As a result, you'll find to life each week with its market. Its history is forever austere fortifications as well as the classical elegance linked to the castle that has stood watch from a rocky of Enlightenment restorations. There are a total of 60 outcropping, 2 kilometers to the east, for the last rooms (15 included on the tour) with period furnishings thousand years. and decor: Aubusson tapestries, French- style coffered ceilings, ornate plasterwork, painted canvases, and "Cuir de Cordou" ON TO which refers to painted and gilded THE NEXT STOP leather hangings. The famous landscape architect André Le Nôtre was a friend Turn right toward the castle and of the Forbin family and designed the the zoological park. After a few magnificent French-style gardens at villas, the countryside comes the base of the castle. From the main into view; vineyards, orchards, terrace, you'll have a gorgeous view and olive trees carpet the hills. After a cluster of trees the castle of the verdant Vallon Maurel (a valley appears, seeming to float above accessible for hiking and biking from the immense plane trees, which the castle's parking area), and beyond include in their midst a giant that, the Étang de Berre. sequoia. Collines Salonaises

ON TO THE NEXT STOP Leave by the castle road. Turn immediately onto D22, toward the Route de la Source. A few farmhouses keep watch over the vineyards at the base of the hills. Around kilometer 7, look out for the Source d’Adane, a spring that the Romans drank from, but that remains a mystery to this day. It never runs dry and no one knows its origin. At D15, turn left, then take the first right toward Cazan. The gentle Costes hills roll along the horizon. The road soon rises into them, surrounded by garrigue scrubland, olive groves, Animals from around the world and limestone outcroppings. Beyond a curve you’ll see the vineyards of the > Not far from the castle, the largest zoo in the PACA region serves Château Bas wine estate, surrounded by scrub. as a showcase for 400 animals along 9 kilometers of paths in a lush After a final hill, follow the sign at kilometer 33-hectare park. The focus is on biodiversity, and a number 12 indicating Cazan. The road descends into of educational activities are available. vineyards and then reveals a splendid view of the

Parc animalier • Tél. 04 90 55 19 12 • www.zoolabarben.com • Site includes playgrounds and picnic areas, restaurants, shops, and more. Luberon range and the TGV railroad viaduct. At kilometer 14 you’ll pass the Château Bas wine cellar, which offers guided wine-tasting and tours of the property. The wine cellar conceals the ruins of a Roman temple, indicating a city existed at this spot around 20-30 BC. Just beyond Château Bas, turn left into the hamlet of Cazan, then left again toward Vernègues via D22b. A third left and you’ll begin the climb to Vernègues. On your right is the richly decorated Chapelle Saint-Symphorien (ex-voto offerings and secular paintings). At kilometer 18, the castle of Vernègues suddenly surges up from behind the forest and fields. The road snakes along the traditional dry stone walls and into the village. 29 2 Lively itineraries in the heart of Provence

Old Vernègues : remains of a quake > From the parking area, walk to the plateau. A wide stretch of heathland offers a panoramic view that you can admire from an orientation table at the old Vernègues mill site. To the east: Montagne Sainte-Victoire. To the south: the Étang de Berre estuary. To the west: the Alpilles range. And to the north: the Luberon range. There's a 2-kilometer walk around the ruins of the village, Église Saint-Jacques, and the feudal castle. The plateau also features Km 19. Vernègues, rue de la Transhumance an almond tree half a millennium old, and a paleochristian cave-necropolis to the northwest. GUES VERNe DISTANT BEGINNINGS

> The Plateau du Grand Puech overlooking the village has seen human comings and goings in Vernègues for more than 7000 years. After the first occupants in the Neolithic and Iron Eras, settlers in Roman times went down to cultivate the Cazan valley (as evidenced by the remains around Château Bas). In the Middle Ages, they returned to the heights to escape invasions. A military fort built in the 8th century was the precursor for the fortified castle of Vernègues, built between the 10th and 15th centuries. A village took shape within its walls. On June 11, 1909, the site was almost entirely destroyed by a violent earthquake that shook Provence. The new village was built below the ruins.

Randonnées Topo 13 • Chaîne des Côtes - Vernègues, balade autour du village Document available on the Tourist office or on www.visitprovence.com Collines Salonaises

New Vernègues : creativity and craft > The village rises in terraces from the base of the plateau, offering high views of the Provençal countryside and the Durance valley. As you make your way, you'll see boutiques, workshops, and galleries Km 25. Alleins, place de l’église showcasing the work of a potter, a painter, sculptors, an ironworker, a maker of traditional figurines known as "santons," and a goat-cheese maker. New Vernègues, Alleins already 100 years old, also boasts heritage sites, such as the Naud wash house, built around a medieval fountain, and a church, SOURCE OF HISTORY Église Notre-Dame-de-Lourdes. The village is also a starting point for hiking trails. > Alleins owes its existence to the "Grand Fount," a spring that has attracted generations of visitors and inhabitants since the Neolithic ON TO THE NEXT STOP Era. Romans at war with the Teutons set up a military fort in In the village, continue on D22b the vicinity. In the 10th century, toward Alleins, then turn right a primitive castle was built on D22d. The road takes you and the village established. along the western point of the Irrigation of farmland by the plateau, which is supported by Canal de Craponne, which still traditional dry stone walls. At the crossroads, turn right, still flows along the northern edge going toward Alleins. On your of Alleins, enabled it to grow left you’ll notice the Chapelle and prosper. Saint-Jean, dating from the 12th century and typical of the Romanesque The oldest streets are very well style in Provence. The road around the plateau runs below a forested preserved and abound with slope, then along a cultivated embankment, and finally down the Route du architectural elements from the 13th to Calvaire, a series of tight hairpin turns marked with crosses. The Petit 18th centuries: doors and gates, arches Luberon is clearly visible during the descent. As you move toward the and mullioned windows, facades, Durance plain amidst the rows of noble pines, 14 stopping points offer corner towers, ramparts, etc. views of Alleins below. Parking is available at the entrance to the village, in front of the church on the right. 31 30 Lively itineraries in the heart of Provence Gateway to the old village > Situated at Alleins’ main entrance in the 16th century, the bell tower is the most monumental vestige of the ramparts, which extended at that time from the current church to the Chapelle des Pénitents. The portcullis and machicolation are original, whereas the tower was added in the 17th and 18th centuries. The sculptured frieze The castle, eloquent ruins fragments around the arched entryway (garlands, cherubs, and drama masks) were taken from > After passing under the bell tower, head a Gallo-Roman mausoleum. toward the castle in the center of the village. Rebuilt at the end of the 15th century, it was occupied by the Renaud family then dismantled during the Revolution. These extensive ruins will take you back to the dawn of the Renaissance: esplanade, monumental portal, courtyard, tower with its staircase, living quarters including several rooms, ramparts, etc.

ON TO THE NEXT STOP

Leave by way of the Route du Calvaire and head toward Aurons on D16. The road climbs into the forest, with the agricultural plateau of Sonnailler to the right, where walkers can enjoy a Tuscan atmosphere among the vineyards and farmlands. Around kilometer 30, you’ll see the entrance to the Château du Petit Sonnailler. With its vast 10th century manor, this wine estate offers elegant lodgings and expressive wines. Two kilometers further on, you’ll arrive at the Plateau du Farigoulet, where the countryside takes on a more mountainous feel. Stop at the parking area on the left to admire the rolling panorama between hills and valleys (departure point for hiking trails). Take the road off to the left leading to Aurons. You’ll be surrounded by pines and oaks as you approach the village. Once there, the main road will lead you to a big plane tree. Collines Salonaises A concentrate of Provence > In the picturesque heart of the village, the town hall, wash house, and church are all set around an immense plane tree with four main boughs. The tree will turn 200 years old in 2020. Stroll through the surrounding web of little streets and discover Aurons' charming houses with their floral decorations, stonework, and Génoise eave tiles. You can climb to the top of the rocky outcropping to visit Notre Dame d’Aurons, a virgin with child sculpted from Oppède stone. From there, enjoy the magnificent view of the surrounding hills and, further afield, the Salon plain. Under the outcropping, the Castellas grottos await you. These dwelling Km 32. Aurons, place Louis Étienne caves, the only trace of the primitive castle, are today used for expositions and special events. Aurons

ABOVE VAL DE CUECH

> Eleven centuries old, Aurons was inhabited during prehistoric times and later became a Roman camp. Much of its history coincides with that of the Château du Castellas, now in ruins. Built in the 10th century, the castle had a number of owners —from the Counts of Provence to the Cordoue family— and two locations: atop the hill until the wars of religion, then below the village, where only two towers and a colonnade remain.

Hike from plateau to plateau > The village center is the starting point for a 3h30 loop linking the Plateau du Farigoulet to the Plateau du Sonnailler. You'll see pines, oak trees, juniper and gorse shrubs, vineyards, garden farms, and medieval farmhouses, and you'll pass the Romanesque Chapelle de Saint-Martin-du-Sonnailler (13th century). 33 32 Lively itineraries in the heart of Provence

ON TO THE NEXT STOP

Go back to D16 and turn left toward Salon-de-Provence. The road cuts across the plateau. At kilometer 36, it descends into the Val de Cuech forest, a thick stand of oak, ash, hackberry, and pine with cliffs rising overhead.

Km 42. Salon-de-Provence, cours Gimon Old city center: atmosphere and Salon-de-Provence history THE ART OF GOOD LIVING > The Place des Centuries offers walkers a rich display of the city's heritage, surrounded by lively > The first known mention of Salon in writing, pedestrian streets and shaded from 871, states that it was founded at the terraces. You'll see numerous site of a Carolingian farm. A century later, the fountains (the most famous is Château de l’Emperi was built on the rocky Fontaine Moussue from the Roche de Puech above the new settlement, end of the 1700s), medieval and which was surrounded by ramparts in the Renaissance monuments (Église 13th century. During the Renaissance, Adam Saint-Michel, Collégiale Saint- You’ll drive through Tallagard, de Craponne designed and built the canal Laurent, Tour du Bourg Neuf, Tour a hiker’s paradise that combines to bring much-needed water to Salon from de Galagaspe, Tour de l’Horloge, traditional dry stone structures, pine the Durance River. In the middle of the Hôtel de Ville), and impressive and olive groves, garrigue scrubland, 16th century, irrigation of the city and the statues. gorse bushes, cliffs and cultivated neighboring Crau plane marked an era of fields… Houses become more frequent, economic development, leading Salon then the first buildings of Salon-de- to grow beyond its ramparts in the Provence appear. Cross the canal, turn • Guided Visits 17th century. At the end of the 19th/ right at the roundabout, and follow the More information at the beginning of the 20th century, the signs for the historic city center. You’ll Tourist Bureau. see the statue of Adam de Craponne soap-making industry expanded in front of the town hall. Turn left on rapidly. In 1918, the city of Salon-de- Cours Gimon (pass the Tourist Bureau Crau became Salon-de-Provence. and continue a few dozen meters to the As the century progressed, it Emperi underground parking garage). became one of the most attractive The end of the road? Not quite… locations in the department, while Welcome to Salon-de-Provence! continuing to define the art of good living in its own way. Collines Salonaises La maison de Nostradamus : a visionary's final years > Michel de Nostredame spent the end of his life in Salon-de-Provence, from 1547 to 1566. The house where this apothecary and reputed seer wrote Les Propheties is today a museum. There you'll learn more about this brilliant and enigmatic Renaissance scholar, who counted kings among his friends and was committed to sharing knowledge (audio-guided tour).

Château de l'Empéri : a collection of 10,000 objects > This is one of the oldest fortresses in Provence and a remarkable example of castle architecture from the 13th to 16th century. The residence of the Musée Grévin: archbishops of Arles until the Renaissance, it become public property during the French Revolution and a showcase for Provence a barracks in the 1800s. Today it's a museum of art and of French > Dedicated to the history and military history, legends of Provence, from Gallo- with a world-class Roman times to the current day, this collection. museum consists of 16 sophisticated displays complete with lighting, sound effects, scents, and recorded commentary. Discover the arrival of the three Marys in Camargue, the Cours d’Aix as it looked in the 13th century, Adam de Craponne in 1559 when the canal was completed, and more. 35 34 LivelyItinéraires itineraries admirables in theau coeurheart deof Provencela provence

Traditional soap makers An ideal place for grazing In 18,000 BC, the Durance ran through what is now > In the 19th century, Salon-de- the Plaine de la Crau. The river changed course with Provence took advantage of olive successive geological modifications, leaving only a growing, mechanization, and the steppe scattered with stones. By creating his canal, arrival of rail to become one of the the engineer Adam de Craponne brought the main regional centers for the oil and waters of the Durance back to the soap trade. The handsome mansions plain. The countryside became a built in Salon-de-Provence by a rich dense, fertile prairie, framed by industrial bourgeoisie can still be high hedges of cypress and ash. A system invented in the 16th century seen today. You can also visit the Savonnerie Rampal-Latour is still used to irrigate the hayfields. production facilities and museum- • Tél. 04 90 56 07 28 In winter, sheep graze the land. The boutiques of two traditional soap • www.rampalpatou.com only herding school in France, the makers that have been in business Savonnerie Marius Fabre Domaine du Merle, is located on for over a century. • Tél. 04 90 53 82 75 this plain as well as the Maison de • www.marius-fabre.fr la Transhumance.

QUICK PICKS An ideal place A Packed Program for hiking There are numerous festivals, performances, concerts, and Salon-de-Provence is also celebrations throughout the year in a center of recreational Salon-de-Provence, which has many activities. You can enjoy aerial high-quality venues such as the adventure courses, gliding, main courtyard of the Château de karting, race car driving, bike l’Emperi, the café & music bar tours, hiking in the Massif du Portail Coucou, Théâtre Armand, Tallagard, and other forms of the jazz school, and the IMFP outdoor fun. In addition, the music school. famous GR2013 hiking path passes through the city. A Region to Experience

Contact Our Tourist Bureaus to Prepare Your Itineraries

Office de tourisme de Charleval Office de tourisme de Berre l’Étang Service Communication de Rognac 2, place André Leblanc Avenue Roger Salengro Hôtel de ville, 21 avenue Charles De Gaulle , J. N I COLAS, Tél. 04 42 28 45 30 Tél. 04 42 85 01 70 Tél. 04 42 87 76 19 T [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] , S. FRA I SSARD, www.charleval-en-provence.org www.tourisme-berreletang.fr www.mairie-rognac.fr

Office de tourisme d’Eyguières Service Communication de La Fare les Oliviers Office de tourisme de Saint-Chamas ET TI N-RAG Place de l’ancien hôtel de ville Hôtel de ville, Place Camille Pelletan 17, rue du 4 septembre Tél. 04 90 59 82 44 Tél. 04 90 45 46 00 Tél. 04 90 50 90 54 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] www.tourisme-eyguieres.com www.lafarelesoliviers.fr www.saintchamas.com Mairie de Lamanon Office de tourisme de Lançon-Provence Service Patrimoine de la ville de Velaux Hotel de ville Square Vogogna, avenue Saint-Cyr Hôtel de ville, Place de Verdun Tél. 04 90 59 54 62 Tél. 04 90 45 71 32 Tél. 04 42 87 73 59 [email protected] www.velaux.fr HE , C. DURAN TI , G. MAR MARC T 13 : D. Office de tourisme de Mallemort www.lancon-provence-tourisme.com 7, avenue des Frères Roqueplan . Tél. 04 90 57 41 62 Office de tourisme du Massif des Costes [email protected] (Alleins, Aurons, La Barben, Pélissanne, Vernègues) www.mallemortdeprovence.com Parc Roux de Brignoles à Pélissanne

Tél. 04 90 55 15 55 Office de tourisme de Sénas [email protected]

28, cours Jean Jaurès 12/14

www.ot-massifdescostes.com • Tél. 04 90 59 20 25 R, Stratis, x E R, Stratis, T Salon E ric FABR [email protected] Office de tourisme de Salon-de-Provence : JN. L an thiez , CD Agglopole Provence www.ville-de-senas.fr 56, cours Gimon - Tél. 04 90 56 27 60 [email protected] www.visitsalondeprovence.com www.visitprovence.com Ville de Rognac, O LLARD, F. JOL I O F. F E RR EI RA, JC.E SQU G IE R E , J. GU I LLARD, I L, J. D E M URS, F. E ON, A. BARRO GORG D. C. FASSANARO, stratis.fr) s tratis ( stratis.fr) : photos Crédit

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www.agglopole-provence.fr Alleins•Aurons•La Barben•Berre l’Etang•Charleval•Eyguières La Fare les Oliviers•Lamanon•Lançon-Provence•Mallemort•Pélissanne Rognac•Saint-Chamas•Salon-de-Provence•Sénas•Velaux•Vernègues