Dear GEMüTLICHKEIT Subscriber The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria & Switzerland Travel Year Fizzles For most of us, travel to Eu- rope—or contemplating travel to Europe—is finished for 2011. Though LIECHTENSTEIN it was supposed to be a rebound edged between Austria and sculpture, per square mile, than any year, the expected hordes of Euro- Switzerland, tiny Liech- other place in the world. The people W tenstein is well known to are friendly and have a sense of hu- pean visitors from North America stamp collectors, but difficult for many mor. The scenery is spectacular. The never materialized. Though millions people to pinpoint on a map. This wine and food are good. What more of us crossed the ‘pond’ during the wealthy enclave could one ask for—except perhaps traditional strong travel months of by Sharon Hudgins in the heart of lower prices at the country’s hotels May-October, I’m betting the num- Europe is only about 15 miles long and and restaurants? bers will fall short of the glory years eight miles wide, with a population of of ‘06, ’07, and ‘08. There are several Despite Liechtenstein’s small size, 36,000. Banking and financial services reasons why many veteran sojourn- there’s plenty to see and do during produce a GDP that puts it at the top ers chose to stay on the western side a two- or three-day visit. On the pe- of the list of the world’s richest coun- of the Atlantic this summer: destrian zone in the center of Vaduz, tries. the Liechtenstein National Museum • Bad Financial Vibes: After Yet, Liechtenstein wears its wealth features several sections of interesting checking brokerage accounts and in a very understated way. Its modern exhibits focusing on different aspects sinking home values, many folks no public and private buildings are char- of the country’s history, from ancient doubt decided there were more pru- acterized by interesting, innovative times to the present; it hosts outstand- dent financial options than spending architecture and high-quality building ing special exhibitions, too. Nearby is a few thousand dollars on a two or materials. There are no glitzy sky- the Kunstmuseum, a dark gray cube three-week European vacation. Fur- scrapers towering over the capital city that houses changing exhibitions of ther undermining confidence was of Vaduz (pronounced fah-DOOTZ, contemporary art. a Congress and an Administration population 5,000), but the country that seem helpless to deal with the surely has more outdoor modern Continued on page 3… country’s economic troubles. The debt ceiling fiasco left a particularly bad taste. Confessions of a Recovering Wine Snob • Weak Dollar: Though in Sep- Over the last few issues, as Gemütlichkeit’s Four years in U.S. Navy officer’s tember the euro dipped as low as 25th anniversary nears, we have dusted off a clubs introduced me to such lethal 1.31 to the dollar, in April through few stories from the early days whose advice potions as gin, scotch, bourbon, and August, when many vacation de- is still valid today. This is a Dear Subscrib- vodka, but we were only acquain- cisions are made, it ranged from er column from November, 1992. tances and never developed much of a friendship. I left the Navy a beer 1.41 to 1.48. The potential traveler don’t believe I ever saw anyone and wine man. to Switzerland was particularly drink wine when I was a kid in discouraged by the value of the Nebraska; plenty of beer but no But wine carries baggage. There franc. Veteran travelers will recall I is not only social pressure to have the wine. in 2002 a Swiss franc cost 58 cents. ‘right stuff’ but also to drink the ‘right In 1947 we moved to Oregon, an- On August 10 it reached a dizzying stuff.’ One must be VC — viticultur- other state where, at all-time high of $1.38 and through ally correct — and, with so many by Bob Bestor the time, wine was not most of the summer was over $1.20. different countries, grape varieties, part of the culture. Even though an intervention by the colors, and difficult to pronounce Swiss central bank brought it back It wasn’t until my first year at names, being VC can be trickier than to around $1.14, the country is still college in California — 1956 — that being PC (politically correct). Use the shockingly expensive. I discovered table wine. Even then term Oriental instead of Asian you’re Californians regularly drank the stuff • Air Fares: Many who thought Continued on page 10… with meals. Not just special meals, but 2010 fares were an aberration and with the Tuesday night meatloaf or the Exchange rates as of 10/18/11 in 2011 waited for sales that never 1 euro = $1.37 Friday night macaroni and cheese. A came, found out the hard way that Swiss franc = $1.11 nice idea, I thought (and still do). Continued on page 2… 1 gal. diesel, Germany=$7.59 www.gemut.com October/November 2011 www.gemut.com “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com breathing space? I thought not. an astonishing price. In the height of DEAR SUBSCRIBER Continued from page 1 Sorry for not painting a more the season, when vans were virtu- ally impossible to obtain in France, high air fares to Europe are here to romantic picture, but I’m sure it isn’t news to any Gemütlichkeit reader that Germany and Switzerland, we saw stay. Yes, a few who traveled in the weekly prices over $1,500. spring and fall paid less than $1,000, events of the past 10 years have had but for the June through September a dramatic, mostly negative, effect on This year also introduced unprec- traveler, economy fares ranged from European travel. edented fluctuations in rental car about $1,200 to $1,800. Currently, in Drop in rental car prices rates. Just a few years ago, the season winter/low season about the best There were, however, some posi- typically began on January 1 with you can do is $738 from New York tive developments. Rental car prices low prices that would hold for three to Frankfurt and $969 from the West were lower in 2011 than in 2010. months, then increase around April Coast. Those who booked very early—end 1. Substantial moves in currency exchange rates would affect prices Here’s why transatlantic fares are of 2010, January-March—were, as usual, rewarded; both in price and through the year but for the most never again going to be cheap. The part car rental prices would remain $738 mentioned above is a Lufthansa availability. As spring became sum- mer, vans and automatics in most the same, to the penny, for weeks, fare that includes $587 in taxes and sometimes months, at a time. Not fees. The fare itself is $151. countries became scarce and expen- sive. The early payers (no-risk, full anymore. We are now seeing daily • The Hassle: One part of our refund available), assured themselves movement in prices. business that has increased this year of the lowest prices by checking rates Rental companies in 2011 contin- is the number of reports of canceled again as departure neared. When ued to tighten the screws regarding flights, arbitrarily rescheduled flight rates had risen they simply kept minor scratches, scrapes, and dents. itineraries, and screwed up reserva- their current reservation. When they Understandably, they want their tions. More than ever, flying isn’t fun, had dropped, the old booking was vehicles in the best shape possible but a stressful, exhausting process of canceled and a new one made at the security checks, long lines, uncom- Continued on page 11… lower rate. fortable boarding areas, a fight for on- Using Gemütlichkeit board storage space, inedible food, Looking into 2012 there are some • Hotel prices listed are for one night. Dis- cramped seats, and being ordered attractive deals to be made by book- counts are often available for longer stays. around by people in uniform. To get ing immediately. Seven and nine-pas- • All hotel prices include breakfast unless senger vans in France and Germany otherwise noted. the lowest fares you’ll have to endure • Local European telephone area codes stops, plane changes, and before- are at the lowest rates we’ve seen in carry the “0” required for in-country dialing. several years. One example: for most To phone establishments from outside the the-crack-of-dawn flights. It can’t be country, such as from the USA, do not dial healthy, either. Symptoms of most of 2011 the price of a nine-passenger the first “0”. of the colds I’ve had in the past 10 VW Caravelle (or similar) standard Back Issues Website van has been $847 for one week in years have appeared within 72 hours Many back issues are available free to subscribers of completing a long-distance flight. Germany, including value added tax. at www.gemut.com. To access the issues, enter the And, by the way, has anyone been on Currently that vehicle can be had password published in this space each month. Go to a flight to anywhere lately that had for $695. A seven passenger van in http://www.gemut.com/see-back-issues.html enough empty seats to provide some France for a week next June is $521, Password: snet Vol. 25, No. 9 HOTEL RESTAURANT RATING KEY Oct.-Nov. GEMüTLICHKEIT The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria & Switzerland 2011 Rating Scale Scale Restaurant Criteria Excellent 16 - 20 Food 65% Publishers:Publishers: RobertRobert H.