01Engkrave-Revers 2 Enkeltradet Teori
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*All values are given in cm. Instruction This instruction on the lapel/collar is developed from the basic jacket block and is a basic instruction. You can change the Con tro l 4.5 ou size and look of the collar, lapel and overlap as needed. te r CB e Before beginning this instruction, place the alignment (bust dart) of the front down to the waist. You can move it later as 1/2 NA.W-1 1/2 d 3 g 2.5 e needed. o f c 1/2 NA.W Neck point o 1/2 NV l l (1/2 Nape width) a r Measured at the At the neckline on the front and back, remove 1 cm at the shoulder line and 0.5 cm at CF and CB. Draw the new neckline. neckline on the 2 Add an overlap to the front parallel to the CF-line. The size of the overlap is determined by the size of the button, as there back. It’s illustrated in figure 2 1 should be 1 cm from the button's outer point to the front edge. The buttons are placed on the CF-line. In this instruction, 3.5 the button size is determined to be 2 cm in diameter and therefore the overlap is 2 cm (see figure 1 for the positioning of 6 M i r buttons). r o r l a p 2.5 e l Mark the break point on the overlap 6 cm down from the horizontal line at the bust point. From the neck point, measure 2 a 1 n d cm outwards the shoulder line. From the break point and through the new point, draw the break line. 3.5 c 2.5 0.5 o l l a r a c On the front, draw the lapel and the first part of the collar, as shown in figure 1 (this gives an idea of how the lapel and r o BREAK LINE s s collar will look like, when the model is finished). t h e Start by drawing the perpendicular guide line from the point where the new neckline and the break line meet. Measured b r e a from the break line, mark a point 3.5 cm inwards on this line. On the break line 2.5 cm from the guide line, place two k l i n points and from the upper point, draw a perpendicular guides line. e From the neck point, measure 3.5 cm inwards the shoulder. With a curved line, draw the lines to the lapel and the first part of the collar. Mirror the lapel and the collar across the break line, as shown in figure 1. SIH Facing From the neck point and up to the break line, mark the value for 1/2 NA.W-1 (1/2 NA.W half nape width, measured on the back, see figure 2). From here, place a perpendicular guide line of 3 cm. From the point 2 from the shoulder line and through the new point, draw a guide line. BP Parallel to this line is drawn a draft for the collar neck line. The line is displaced by 2.5 cm at the back of the collar and is FRONT drawn tangential to the new neckline and further downwards to the lapel. 6 1 To find the length of the collar neck line, measure the new neckline of the basic 2 Break 3.5 Positioning of 1 point block. This value is marked backwards along the collar neck line. In the figure, this buttons: 0.5 A.W r 1/2 N lla is marked with the symbol O, which means equal length. Mark further the value for Button size = 2 cm co 2 of dge 1/2 NA.W on the collar neck line. From there, draw a perpendicular line. This is the OVERLAP Control outer e WC 2 CB-line of the collar. CF Since the collar break line is already defined (here: 2.5 cm), mark the collar width from there (here: 4.5 cm) on the collar CB-line. 1 Finish the collar and lapel by drawing the last part of the collar down to the mirrored part. CB BACK Control the outer edge of the collar by measuring along the edge from CB to the HC1 mirrored part and compare it with the control measure, where the collar edge will lie around the neck of the back (see figure 2). The outer edge of the collar and the control measure must have the same length. The pattern pieces can now be copied. See the next page for the pattern overview. © CUT UP STUDIO 2017 Page 1 of 2 CB CB TOP COLLAR UNDER COLLAR BREAK LINE BREAK LINE SIH SIH BP BP FORSTYKKE CB FACING BACK WC CF CF WC WC HC1 HC1 HC1 © CUT UP STUDIO 2017 Page 2 of 2.