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1 Lesson Guide Drop Shoulder Blouse Draping: Intermediate Module – 6 Trueing the Front

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1 Lesson Guide Drop Shoulder Blouse Draping: Intermediate Module – 6 Trueing the Front Lesson Guide Drop Shoulder Blouse Draping: Intermediate Module 1 – Lesson Prep Step 1 The first step when draping the Drop-Shoulder Blouse is to apply style tape to the dress form. Begin at the apex area, which Is the fullest part of the bust. Tape from apex to apex. 1 Module 1 – Lesson Prep Step 2 Measure down 7” to the middle of the waist tape and apply style tape from center front to center back for the hipline. Make sure that your style tape is parallel to the floor. 2 Module 1 – Lesson Prep Step 3 Tape shoulder level at 1/4th the distance from neckline to the middle of the waist tape at center back. Make sure that it is parallel to the floor. 3 Lesson Guide Drop Shoulder Blouse Draping: Intermediate Module 2 – Extract Measurements for Body Muslin Blocks Step 1 To prepare your length muslin block for both front & back, measure on the front of the dress form from the top of the neckband to hip level and then add 5”. 4 Module 2 – Extract Measurements for Body Muslin Blocks Step 2 To prepare your width muslin block for the front, measure at bust level from center front to side seam and add 6”.Step 2 To prepare your width muslin block for the front, mea- sure at bust level from center front to side seam and add 6”. 5 Module 2 – Extract Measurements for Body Muslin Blocks Step 3 To prepare the muslin block for the back, measure the widest part of the back, which is under armplate, from side seam to center back and add 5” for the width. 6 Module 2 – Extract Measurements for Body Muslin Blocks Step 4 For your sleeve you will need to prepare a 24” x 24 “ muslin block. 7 Module 2 – Extract Measurements for Body Muslin Blocks Step 5 Referring to your measurements, measure and tear your muslin pieces for both front and back. 8 Module 2 – Extract Measurements for Body Muslin Blocks Step 6 Next, block your front, back and sleeve pieces. 9 Module 2 – Extract Measurements for Body Muslin Blocks Step 7 Then press all of your muslin blocks. 10 Lesson Guide Drop Shoulder Blouse Draping: Intermediate Module 31 – Extract Body Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 1 For the front you will need the following measurements; the top of neckband to bust level. 11 Module 3 – Extract Body Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 2 Measure the apex to center front. Then record these measurements. 12 Module 3 – Extract Body Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 3 For the back you will need your neck to shoulder blade measurement. Record that measurement. 13 Module 3 – Extract Body Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 4 On your front muslin block, measure in 2 1/4” from the right side edge and drag a guideline down, this represents center front. 14 Module 3 – Extract Body Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 5 Take the measurement from the top of the neckband to apex and measure down on centerfront and draw a guideline across, this represents the bust level. Then, place a mark representing center front to apex. 15 Module 3 – Extract Body Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 6A To make a placket front closure, measure 5/8” to the right of center front grainline & drag a guideline down, this represents the buttonhole extension. 16 Module 3 – Extract Body Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 6B Then measure 1 1/4” to the right of the buttonhole extension and drag another guideline down, this completes the placket front closure. 17 Module 3 – Extract Body Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 6C In the center of this space, make a mark, this represents center front. You should have 3/8” allowance on the right edge of the front placket closure both top and bottom. 18 Module 3 – Extract Body Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 7 For the back block, measure in 1” from the left side of the muslin block and drag a guideline down, this represents center back. 19 Module 3 – Extract Body Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 8 At center back, measure down 3” from the top of the muslin and place a mark, this represents neckline. 20 Module 3 – Extract Body Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 9 Measure down from the neckline mark, the measurement for the shoulder blade level and drag a guideline across, this represents the shoulder blade level. 21 Module 3 – Extract Body Measurements & Mark Guidelines Step 10 Next, press your muslin blocks in preparation for draping. 22 Lesson Guide Drop Shoulder Blouse Draping: Intermediate Module – 4 Draping the Front Step 1 Begin the drop shoulder drape by pinning the front muslin block to the apex of the dress form. Place a second pin at the apex to hold the muslin securely in place. 23 Module – 4 Draping the Front Step 2 Line up the muslin’s center front guideline to the center front of the dress form be- ginning at the neckline. Place a pin at the neckline and a few temporary holding pins at the shoulder and neck, to keep the muslin from curling. Be sure to keep the bust level of the muslin in line with the bust level of the dress form. Remember to add bust ease. 24 Module – 4 Draping the Front Step 3A Place pins along the center front, above and below the bust level. 25 Module – 4 Draping the Front Step 3B Place a pin at the center front/hipline intersection. 26 Module – 4 Draping the Front Step 4 Remove your holding pin at the neck and begin draping the neckline by first cutting away a 1 1/2” x 1” rectangle from the top right edge of your muslin, this releases the muslin at the neck. 27 Module – 4 Draping the Front Step 5 Slash into the muslin around neckline area but be careful not to cut into the neckline seam. 28 Module – 4 Draping the Front Step 6 Smooth the muslin around the neckline and place a pin at neckline/shoulder intersec- tion. 29 Module – 4 Draping the Front Step 7 Trim off some excess muslin around the neckline to keep it from curling. 30 Module – 4 Draping the Front Step 8 Smooth the muslin across the shoulder seam and place a pin at armhole/shoulder intersection. 31 Module – 4 Draping the Front Step 9A Line up the muslin bust level guideline to bust level on the dress form.Trap 1/8” worth of ease on the bust level and the excess material at the armhole. 32 Module – 4 Draping the Front Step 9B Secure pins along the bust level guideline from apex to the side seam. 33 Module – 4 Draping the Front Step 9C Place a pin at the side seam intersection. 34 Module – 4 Draping the Front Step 10 At the hipline, add 1/2” worth of ease, then, place a pin at the side seam/hipline intersection to form a box silhouette. 35 Lesson Guide Drop Shoulder Blouse Draping: Intermediate Module – 5 Marking the Front Step 1 Start marking in a counter clockwise direction beginning with a dash at the center front neckline, dots around the neckline and a crossmark at the shoulder/neck intersection. 36 Module – 5 Marking the Front Step 2 Place a crossmark at the shoulder/armhole intersection. 37 Module – 5 Marking the Front Step 3 Crossmark the underarm/side seam intersection. 38 Module – 5 Marking the Front Step 4 Crossmark the hipline/side seam intersection. 39 Module – 5 Marking the Front Step 5 And place a dash at the center front/hipline intersection. 40 Module – 5 Marking the Front Step 6 Before removing the front muslin from the dress form, be sure that you have captured all your markings. 41 Lesson Guide Drop Shoulder Blouse Draping: Intermediate Module – 6 Trueing the Front Step 1 Begin trueing by placing your styling curve at the center front/neckline intersection. Connect the dots to the shoulder/neckline intersection. Make sure that your neckline is a right angle to center front. 42 Module – 6 Trueing the Front Step 2 At the center front neckline, drag a guideline into the extension. 43 Module – 6 Trueing the Front Step 3 Connect the neck to the shoulder then extend the shoulder 3” from that mark, to cre- ate the new drop shoulder. Place a crossmark. 44 Module – 6 Trueing the Front Step 4 At the new extended shoulder crossmark, measure up 1/2” and connect that mark to the neckline/shoulder intersection. This is your new front shoulder seam. 45 Module – 6 Trueing the Front Step 5 Next, connect the side seam/underarm crossmark to the hipline/side seam crossmark. 46 Module – 6 Trueing the Front Step 6 Measure down 3” from the underarm/side seam intersection and place a mark. 47 Module – 6 Trueing the Front Step 7 Extend the underarm out 1/2” from that lowered armhole mark and place a mark. 48 Module – 6 Trueing the Front Step 8 Drag a grainline down from this mark to the lower edge of muslin. This is your new side seam. 49 Module – 6 Trueing the Front Step 9 Using your styling curve, true the armhole connecting the marks of the extended shoulder/armhole intersection with the lowered extended side seam/armhole intersection. 50 Module – 6 Trueing the Front Step 10 Add 1” seam allowance to the shoulder seam. 51 Module – 6 Trueing the Front Step 11 Extend the armhole line into the shoulder seam allowance then add 1/2 ” seam allowance to the armhole. 52 Module – 6 Trueing the Front Step 12 Add 1” seam allowance to the side seam. 53 Module – 6 Trueing the Front Step 13 Trim the excess muslin from the side seam, the armhole and the shoulder seam.
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