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Perfume, Moda E Cultura: Estudos Reunidos

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Perfume, Moda E Cultura: Estudos Reunidos © Editora UFJF, 2019 Este livro ou parte dele não pode ser reproduzido por qualquer meio sem autorização expressa da editora. O conteúdo desta obra, além de autorizações relacionadas à permissão de uso de imagens ou textos de outro(s) autor(es), são de inteira responsabilidade do(s) autor(es) e/ou organizador(es). UNIVERSIDADE FEDERAL DE JUIZ DE FORA DIRETOR DA EDITORA UFJF Jorge Carlos Felz Ferreira REITOR Marcus Vinicius David CONSELHO EDITORIAL Jorge Carlos Felz Ferreira (Presidente) VICE-REITORA Charlene Martins Miotti Girlene Alves da Silva Elson Magalhães Toledo Emerson José Sena da Silveira Jair Adriano Kopke de Aguiar Maria Lúcia Duriguetto Rafael Alves Bonfim de Queiroz Rodrigo Alves Dias Taís de Souza Barbosa ProjeTO GRÁFICO, EDITORAÇÃO E Capa Alexandre Amino Mauler Nicole Stopa de Mello - Bolsista TP RevisÃO Vera Fernandes - Bolsista TP IlusTRAÇÃO DA Capa Maria Alice Ximenes Ficha catalográfica elaborada pela Biblioteca Central da UFJF Perfume, moda e cultura [recurso eletrônico] : estudos reunidos / Isabela Monken Velloso; Frederico Braida (organizadores.) -- Juiz de Fora : Editora UFJF, 2019. Dados eletrônicos (1 arquivo: 1,5mb) ISBN 978-85-93128-49-3 1. Cultura. 2. Perfume. 3. Moda. 4. Arte. 5. Design. 6. Olfato. I. Velloso, Isabela Monken. II. Braida, Frederico. III. Título. CDU 008 Este livro obedece às normas do Acordo Ortográfico da Língua Portuguesa, promulgado pelo Decreto n. 6.583 de 29 de setembro de 2008. Editora UFJF Rua Benjamin Constant, 790 Centro - Juiz de Fora - MG - Cep 36015-400 Fone/Fax: (32) 3229-7646 / (32) 3229-7645 [email protected] / [email protected] www.ufjf.br/editora Filiada à ABEU Dedicamos este livro às nossas alunas e aos nossos alunos, bem como a todos os interessados pelo vasto campo da Cultura do Perfume e suas imbricações com a Moda, a Arte e o Design. “Se o recurso ao faro lhe parece pouco nobre, o filósofo pode gabar-se de exibir sagacidade e de reivindicá- la como uma virtude. Pois a sagacidade não passa de uma acuidade do espírito e de uma forma de perspicácia cujo modelo está no olfato. Sagax, em latim, designa aquele que tem um olfato sutil”. (JAQUET, 2014, p. 262) SUMÁRIO NOTA DE ABERTURA ________________________________________________________________ 7 Renata Ashcar PREFÁCIO: QUEM ESTÁ AÍ? _________________________________________________________ 8 Fausto Viana APRESENTAÇÃO ___________________________________________________________________ 15 Isabela Monken Velloso; Frederico Braida MODA E PERFUMES: O DEVIR, A TRANSGRESSÃO E A PRESENÇA _________________ 23 Isabela Monken Velloso SINTO AROMAS; TENHO PALAVRAS (Notas seNsíveis a fragrâNcias seNtidas) ___________________________________ 31 Aluizio Ramos Trinta PERFUME E RELIGIÃO: RELAÇÕES ENTRE O SENTIDO DO OLFATO E O SAGRADO __________________________ 38 Hermenegildo Ferreira Giovannoni OS ANÚNCIOS PUBLICITÁRIOS DE PERFUMARIA NO BRASIL DO SÉCULO XIX AO XXI: UM ESTUDO CRÍTICO COMPARATIVO ____________________ 48 Christine Ferreira Azzi ANGE OU DÉMON/GIVENCHY: O PERFUME E O ACORDE ILÍCITO __________________ 63 Isabela Monken Velloso; Claudia Carvalho Gaspar Cimino; Lucas Miranda Nascimento; Maria Rita da Cunha Vasconcelos; Leonardo Fernandes de Moraes A PUBLICIDADE DE CHANEL Nº 5: UMA HISTÓRIA DE PODER E SEDUÇÃO _________ 75 Taísa Vieira Sena CARTAS NA MESA: AS SEMIOSES DE JEU D’AMOR KENZO _________________________ 85 Cláudia Carvalho Gaspar Cimino; Isabela Monken Velloso; Paloma da Costa Ferreira; Wânia Lúcia Giordano Baptista; Wanessa Dose Bittar; Monaliza Aparecida de Paula O CHAMADO, PEÇA PUBLICITÁRIA DE OLD SPICE: TRAJES DE CENA PARA MACHOS? _________________________________________________ 95 Fausto Viana SUMÁRIO MapeaMeNto de estilo MasculiNo: a iMportâNcia do perfuMe. ALGUNS APONTAMENTOS SOBRE CONSULTORIA DE IMAGEM PESSOAL _________ 103 Maria Alice Ximenes; Benedito Aparecido Cruz MODA, PERFUMES E VIVÊNCIAS NA CONSTRUÇÃO DO ESTILO ___________________ 109 Cibele Ramos Lima O CHEIRO DO FOGO: SEMIOSES EM “QUASAR FIRE”, DE O BOTICÁRIO ___________ 118 Frederico Braida; Isabela Monken Velloso CIDADE QUE INSPIRA: PROCESSO DE COCRIAÇÃO EM PERFUMARIA BRASILEIRA _______________________ 126 Ademir Antônio Veroneze Júnior; Boanerges Balbino Lopes Filho; Mayra Regina Coimbra; Pedro Augusto Farnese de Lima; Vanilda Gomes Cantarino de Magalhães; Wanessa Dose Bittar criação de fragrâNcias: aliaNça eNtre arte, técNica e seNsibilidade Na CRIAÇÃO de FRAGRÂNcias ______________________ 135 Cristine do Carmo Schmidt Bueno de Moraes; Claudio Luiz Rubino Mapa psico-estético da percepção de perfuMes: CONTRAPONDO DESCRIÇÃO, CHEIRO E EMBALAGEM ___________________________ 144 Ivan Mota Santos; Isabela Monken Velloso; Adriana Francisca Oliveira LEMBRANÇAS DE UMA FÁBRICA TÊXTIL: TECIDOS, DESENHOS, CORES, ODORES E SONS DA FERREIRA GUIMARÃES _______ 154 Claudia Carvalho Gaspar Cimino o cortiço coMo protagoNista – cheiro e perfuMe _______________________ 163 Julimar Cezario de Souza Franco DA SOBREVIVÊNCIA AO PRAZER DA VIVÊNCIA: O PERFUME COMO CHAVE PARA A MENTE ______________________________________ 170 Afonso Damião Neto POSFÁCIO ________________________________________________________________________ 176 Antônio Nolasco SOBRE OS AUTORES ______________________________________________________________ 178 NOTA DE ABERTURA RENATA ASHCAR1 Sinto-me muito honrada em prefaciar este livro que reúne e organiza o trabalho incansável dos professores Isabela Monken Velloso e Frederico Braida na difusão da cultura da perfumaria no Brasil. Este desejo sempre norteou minha carreira na perfumaria e apoio com muito carinho todas as iniciativas neste sentido. Afinal, o conhecimento é a chave para a liberdade! O perfume permeia todos os capítulos deste livro, envolvendo aspectos relevantes no que tange à cultura, religião, comunicação e também a importância de alguns perfumes icônicos na história. Vale muito a pena a leitura. Mergulhem nestas perfumadas histórias e aproveitem bastante este conhecimento organizado. Aproveito para parabenizar aos professores e a todos os envolvidos na publicação, porque esta é a forma mais sólida e enriquecedora de consolidar nosso mercado. Com muito carinho! 1 Com quase 30 anos dedicados ao estudo, pesquisa e difusão da cultura do perfume no Brasil e no exterior, tornou-se a mais renomada profissional brasileira no campo da Perfumaria. Renata é hoje fonte para a imprensa local e internacional sobre o tema de perfumes, assinando também vários artigos para revistas nacionais e internacionais. É também palestrante convidada em diversos eventos internacionais do mercado de luxo e perfumaria sempre no âmbito de promover um melhor entendimento do mercado brasileiro de perfumes. Considerada hoje a maior especialista do Brasil na área de perfumes, além de ter criado o Curso de Avaliação Olfativa para pessoas com deficiência visual, Renata ministra treinamentos e cursos livres, além de lecionar nos cursos de pós-graduação em perfumaria das faculdades Oswaldo Cruz e Santa Marcelina. Além do icônico livro Brasilessência, entre suas obras se destacam a publicação anual do Guia de Perfumes e o Livro do Banho: história e rituais. PERFUME, MODA E CULTURA: ISABELA MONKEN VELLOSO FREDERICO BRAIDA ESTUDOS REUNIDOS (ORG.) PREFÁCIO: QUEM ESTÁ AÍ? FAUSTO VIANA2 Ninguém escreve ou organiza um livro impunemente. Um livro é um filho, um grito no ar, um manifesto, um sofrimento ou uma alegria, um prazer, um medo, um desejo que se entrega ao leitor e de quem se espera as melhores reações (im)possíveis. Não se faz um livro esperando que nada aconteça – ao contrário, é para acontecer alguma coisa que escrevemos. Isabela Monken Velloso e Frederico Braida generosamente me convidaram para fazer a abertura deste projeto ambicioso de ambos: Perfume, moda e cultura: estudos reunidos. O título revela a profundidade da aspiração de firmar o perfume como uma ampla área de estudos na academia. Meu ímpeto inicial foi usar a arte dramática, minha área principal de pesquisa, para ilustrar a importância do tema e da publicação que chega agora às mãos do leitor. E logo pensei nos exemplos de William Shakespeare (1564-1616), um dos maiores dramaturgos de todos os tempos. Vê-se, portanto, o porquê do título. “Quem está aí?” Esta é a primeira fala do texto Hamlet, escrito por volta de 1600. Um soldado de plantão está, na verdade, apavorado aguardando uma nova aparição do fantasma do pai de Hamlet, que morrera assassinado. Minha tentativa era introduzir, como faz o livro Perfume, moda e cultura, as muitas abordagens oferecidas pelo tema perfume. Ora, qual é a sensação que levou o soldado a temer tanto assim os barulhos noturnos? É o cheiro da morte, o aroma espectral carregado de nuances e significados. Mas de súbito parei e pensei: quem vai ler esta abertura? Que viajante busca esta fonte - o livro - para matar sua sede, ou, melhor ainda, se perfumar nos seus inspirados capítulos? Quem está aí? Quem é você, leitor? Talvez seja um leitor que, como eu, pense em organizar este universo perfumado de formas distintas. São conceitos tão usados no cotidiano que seus significados podem ficar restritos. Perfume é coisa boa, cheiro bom, aroma agradável. Olor. Rosa, do compositor Pixinguinha, gravada pela primeira vez em 1917, usava justamente esta palavra: 2 Fausto Viana é pesquisador de indumentária, moda e trajes de cena. É professor de cenografia e indumentária na Escola de Artes, Ciências e Humanidades (EACH) e na Escola de Comunicações e Artes (ECA) da USP. É doutor em artes e em museologia e fez pós- doutorado em conservação de trajes e em moda. É autor do
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