ISSN ????-???? Annon-woodnon-wood information bulletin on Non-Wood Forest Products JANUARY 2007 14

EDITORIAL

A new year, a new look! Mr Jan Heino, the new Assistant-Director General of the Forestry Department has written the editorial of the restyled Non-Wood News. I am fully aware of the social, cultural and economic importance of non-wood forest products (NWFPs) in the lives of many people – both in my own country, Finland, and worldwide. Over the years, I have been impressed by how Non- Wood News has managed to capture this importance, as well as the diversity of NWFP actors, in its many articles, features and reader contributions. CONTENTS I also fully recognize the need for further protection and promotion of traditional forest related knowledge (TFRK), which is closely linked with the cultural and intellectual heritage of indigenous people and other forest dwellers. 3 Special features Their practices can form a significant part of sustainable forest management. It % The versatile bamboo is imperative to ensure that they receive benefits from the use of this knowledge • Improved biological bamboo and that technologies drawing from traditional forest-related knowledge clearly charcoal for wastewater treatment acknowledge the of this knowledge. Many recommendations on this topic • Bamboo leading the way in textile exist internationally, but their implementation has remained inadequate. innovations Promotion of TFRK needs to be better incorporated in national forest programmes • Bamboo linen as well as in forest management planning at the local level. • Bamboo fashion fabrics This restyled Non-Wood News is one of the outcomes of the auto-evaluation • Bamboo power station exercise that took place in 2005 and is a direct response to the readers who • Bamboo shoots and paper mills commented on its format and legibility. We hope that you like it and would • Building with bamboo – design welcome your comments on this “face-lift”. competition In another response, which requested more information more often, we are • Bamboo planting can slow also increasing the frequency of Non-Wood News to every six months. deforestation Yet another outcome of reader participation is that we now have a regular • Vietnamese bamboo fences to enter section covering non-profit and non-governmental organizations. We invite NGOs Europe and non-profit organizations that are involved with any aspect of NWFPs (including • Bamboo plastic indigenous knowledge, biodiversity, environment and gender issues) to submit • Bamboo vinegar information on their organization and the NWFP activities/projects they implement. • Bamboo paper: centuries-old However, we would like to stress that behind the new-look Non-Wood News papermaking handwork faces is the usual wealth of information from the world of NWFPs. The Special Features extinction section covers two different aspects of NWFPs: a specific product (bamboo) and % Forest : NWFP use in the a developing market (cosmetics and beauty care). As you will see from the beauty industry articles, bamboo is versatile: it can be transformed, for example, into textiles, • Scientists: man’s vanity dates back charcoal, vinegar, green plastic or paper and can also be used as a food source, to prehistoric times a deodorant, an innovative building material and to fuel power stations. • Aboriginal knowledge and the Reports indicate that natural cosmetics and beauty care are a huge global beauty industry market, with forecasts indicating an annual growth of 9 percent through 2008. The • Thanakha, ’s natural Special Feature on “Forest cosmetics: NWFP use in the beauty industry” builds on cosmetic § • New beauty products contain sea buckthorn oil NON-WOOD NEWS • The scent of battle in Provence is compiled and coordinated by Tina Etherington, Forest Products Service of the FAO Forest Products and Industry • Hunting for that fresh aroma Division. For this issue, editing support was provided by Sandra Rivero; language editing by Roberta Mitchell, • European sales of natural Josiane Bonomi and Deliana Fanego; design, graphics and desktop publishing by Claudia Tonini. cosmetics surge Non-Wood News is open to contributions by readers. Contributions are welcomed in English, French and Spanish and may be edited to fit the appropriate size and focus of the bulletin. • L’Oréal buys organic cosmetics If you have any material that could be included in the next issue of Non-Wood News for the benefit of other company Sanoflore readers, kindly send it, before 31 March 2007, to: NON-WOOD NEWS – FOIP • More men now buying cosmetics FAO, Viale delle Terme di Caracalla, 00153 Rome, Italy • Mushroom cosmetic line developed E-mail: [email protected] www.fao.org/forestry/nwfp/nonwood.htm FAO home page: www.fao.org All Internet links cited were checked on 23 November 2006. Articles express the views of their authors, not necessarily those of FAO. The designations employed and the presentation of material in this publication do not imply the expression of any opinion whatsoever on the part of the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) concerning the legal status of any country, territory, city or area or of its authorities, or concerning the delimitation of its frontiers or boundaries. this and includes information industry interest and marketing strategies (consumers are being drawn to natural products and thus their content is emphasized). Usually considered a predominantly female market, it is now also increasingly becoming an important market for men too. However, as can be seen from the articles on shea butter in Africa and thanakha in Myanmar, many societies have always used and benefited from natural cosmetics. In this issue you will find other examples of traditional knowledge, such as using the secretions of a poisonous tree frog in Brazil and the use by the traditional healers in India of allelopathic knowledge. Non-Wood News readers are indeed very active and participatory and, as the new head of the Forestry Department, it is very gratifying to learn that so many e- mails and letters are received from you. As we have shown with the new look, increased frequency and greater coverage of traditional knowledge and NGOs, we genuinely take your opinions into consideration and try to act upon them. I would particularly like to thank the many people who have contributed to this issue; we greatly appreciate your interest and views. I believe that this very active reader participation provides a unique networking opportunity and is a great strength of Non-Wood News.

• Shea butter’s role in the cosmetic • Centre for Integrated Rural Zealand, Nicaragua, Nigeria, industry Development and Environmental Pakistan, Paraguay, Peru, South • UmMemezi bark: cosmetic use Conservation (CIRDEN) Africa, Sri Lanka, Sudan, Togo, Tonga, threatens native tree • Earthwatch Institute Uganda, Ukraine, United Kingdom, • Ecological Internet, Inc. United States, Viet Nam, Zambia 9 News and Notes • MacArthur announces % Ayurvastra textiles programme to recognize small non- 59 Econook % Beech forest “honeydew” profit organizations % Madagascar Declaration focuses % Biojewels % Parasitism of amla, an economically African development policies on the % Bioprospecting or biopiracy? significant NTFP value of nature • Banking on bioprospecting in Costa % Perspectivas de los PFNM y de los % New multimillion dollar investments Rica servicios ambientales en América will help protect Himalayan species • Brazilian Government issues list of Latina y el Caribe % US$20 million pledged to protect Brazilian plant species to prevent % Poisonous tree frog could bring wealth Amazon biopiracy to a tribe in the Brazilian Amazon % Giant panda ecological corridor • Chile no cuenta con una legislación % Programme for the Promotion and % European Union announces plan to contra la biopiratería Development of NWFPs across Africa fight extinction of plants and animals • FTA paves way for biopiracy % Reptile skins seized % Central Africa’s first debt-for-nature • Indian Government moves to check % Resin prices swap foreign patents threat % Rights and Resources Initiative % Saving languages to save species % Boreal forests % Rosin bags and baseball % Botanic gardens: using plant % Special tools for safe gum tapping of 61 International Action diversity for human well-being Sterculia and Acacia trees % FAO, The Global Facilitation Unit for % Cadre légal et réglementaire % Trade and NWFPs Underutilized Species régissant le secteur «PFNL» en • Global analysis of trade-related Afrique Centrale instruments 66 Recent Events % Carmine and cochineal extracts • International trade in NWFPs % Commercializing non-timber forest % Traditional allelopathic knowledge 68 Forthcoming Events products: does it help poor people? % Traditional leather craft 71 Publications of Interest % Essential oil of Spanish sage % Honey trials on cancer patients 24 Products and Markets 78 Web Sites % Ice cream sprinkles % Ampelodesmos mauritanicus, Bark, 79 Readers’ Response % Marketingmaap: Medicinal and Bushmeat, Cork, Lac, Maple syrup, Aromatic Plants Marketing Medicinal plants and herbs, % Medicinal pillow Mulberry, Oak galls, Sandalwood, Non-wood forest products (NWFPs) are goods % Natural fibres to save a million Stevia, Truffles of biological origin other than wood, derived tropical forest trees from forests, other wooded land and trees % Nature-based entrepreneurship 36 Country Compass outside forests. Non-timber forest products provides new business opportunities % Australia, Bangladesh, Bhutan, (NTFPs), another term frequently used to in rural areas Bolivia, Brazil, Bulgaria, Burkina cover this vast array of animal and plant % Newsletters Faso, Cameroon, Canada, Colombia, products, also includes small wood and • Biodiversidad Costa Rica, Democratic Republic of fuelwood. However, these two terms are used • ForLive Highlights the Congo, El Salvador, Ethiopia, synonymously throughout this bulletin. Other • The ComForM Newsletter France, Ghana, India, Islamic terms, such as “minor”, “secondary” or % Non-profit organizations and NGOs Republic of Iran, Italy, Japan, Lao “speciality” forest products, are sometimes • Caravan – Forestry Conservation People’s Democratic Republic, used to keep original names and/or titles. and Development Project Malaysia, México, Nepal, New

NON-WOOD NEWS No. 14 January 2007 SPECIAL FEATURES 3

%THE VERSATILE BAMBOO Improved biological bamboo charcoal for OTHER USES OF BAMBOO wastewater treatment CHARCOAL Five biological bamboo charcoal dams were built on a 120-m-long offshoot and the high- As a deodorant and preservative density household wastewater flowing Refrigerators are used to store almost all through them was purified into much kinds of food. Yet, although well cleaner water. After sampling and designed, they are not able to exclude examination, the purified water satisfied all various odours because of the circulation wastewater draining criteria. A year later, of cold air. If bamboo charcoal or its this demonstration site for purifying modified product is used in a wastewater with improved biological bamboo refrigerator, these odours can be charcoal dams is still functioning well. excluded through absorption action. At Improved biological bamboo charcoal consequently its absorbing ability, which is the same time, because of bamboo has a very strong absorption capacity. its function in purifying water, is gradually charcoal’s ability to adjust humidity, the Experiments showed that when the surface lost. preservative period of vegetables and temperature of bamboo charcoal reaches According to the total daily amount of fruit can be extended. Bamboo charcoal 700°C, it has a pore structure and its wastewater to be treated, up to US$2 can also be reused once it has been specific surface area is maximized: the million will be needed to establish a washed and dried. specific surface area of 1 of bamboo wastewater treatment factory with a In adjusting humidity charcoal equals that of a football field. This capacity of 10 000 tonnes/day and with a Because bamboo charcoal is activated characteristic makes the charcoal an matching control system on rainwater and under conditions of very little oxygen excellent absorbing material. wastewater. The plant will occupy a large and high temperature, it contains almost Because of its outstanding absorption area of land and running costs will be no water and has many pores, which capacity, experiments have been carried heavy. In contrast, the establishment of an makes it highly effective in adjusting out on the filtering function of bamboo improved biological bamboo charcoal humidity. When the surrounding charcoal in purifying wastewater. However, wastewater treatment system with the humidity overtakes that of bamboo a vital shortcoming has been discovered: as same daily treatment capacity of 10 000 charcoal, the charcoal can absorb the a result of the special interior space tonnes would only cost $50 000. moisture from the air. Moreover, when structure of the charcoal, the various Furthermore, it would cost merely $5 000 the surrounding humidity becomes pollutants fill up the spaces over time; to run the system for one year, with all the lower than that of bamboo charcoal, the water treated meeting national criteria. charcoal can emit moisture to maintain a This technology is extremely suitable for dynamic equilibrium. Consequently, application on rivers in both cities and rural bamboo charcoal is also used in areas. manufacturing different health care EXPERIMENTS ON IMPROVED Since most farmers in rural areas are products to regulate people’s BIOLOGICAL BAMBOO CHARCOAL relatively dispersed, the bamboo charcoal microsurroundings. It is often laid under facility should be set up at the end of rivers indoor flooring or placed behind Combine ten genera (more than 80 and canals, so that it does not affect water wallboards. species) of three main fungus groups: use and transportation. photosynthetic bacterium, lactobacillus Daily production of wastewater in rural and microzyme loaded into the pore areas is 4 000–6 000 tonnes/day and carrier of special bamboo charcoal, therefore the bamboo charcoal water Villages can also charge farms that benefit hybrid the oxygen and anti-oxygen treatment system for this capacity could cost from the system on a yearly basis. After microbe through fermentation; different less than $20 000, with yearly maintenance solving the problems of site selection, microbes live on the pollutant as “food”, and running costs of less than $3 000. Only establishment and maintenance costs, this so as to maintain the metabolism. In this one person, who could even work part time, technology can be extended throughout way, the improved biological bamboo is needed to manage the system. rural areas. For some areas with better charcoal functions together with the The treatment system is extremely conditions, a wetland can be added to the various microbes during the water durable as shown by the demonstration end of the system to improve the quality of purification process to decompose the system which was set up to last for about the purified water still further. (Contributed

pollutant into water and CO2 through one year and still works well, with all treated by: Fu Jinhe Ph.D., Programme Officer and complicated absorbing and biological water meeting national standards. The Coordinator of IUFRO 5th November 2005 processes. Based on this theory, the system will last even longer in rural areas Bamboo and Rattan, International Network water purification treatment through since wastewater there is less polluted. for Bamboo and Rattan (INBAR), 8 Fu Tong improved biological bamboo charcoal The improved biological bamboo Dong Da Jie, Wang Jing Area, Chao Yang technology was invented. charcoal needs to be changed every two District, Beijing 100102-86, China. Fax: years, at a cost of about $10 000, which +86-10-6470 2166; e-mail: [email protected]; should be acceptable for rural areas. http://www.inbar.int)

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Bamboo leading the way in textile really holds on to the colour”, while another districts) in the CHT. In Khagrachhari alone, innovations noticed that it “absorbs faster than cotton”. there are over 100 of these markets where Value-added performance fabrics are the (Source: The Columbus Dispatch, 5 March at least 10 000 kg bamboo shoots are sold latest trend in textiles. Jonäno™, a division 2006.) each day at Tk10–12/kg. of Sami Designs LLC, is concentrating on According to the Khagrachhari AED one particular area of study in high- Bamboo fashion fabrics Deputy Director, bamboo worth over Tk50 technology fabrics: a new generation of Bamboo fashion fabrics have many crore could be produced if the shoots were antimicrobial and antibacterial textiles. exceptional qualities. They stay two not used as vegetables. Consumption is This technology incorporates built-in degrees cooler than other fabrics and so increasing daily with the rise in population abilities to fight harmful microbes that provide cool comfort. They also have a and some day, he said, the Karnaphuli cause odour and can lead to infection. natural wicking ability: they wick moisture paper mill will face a serious crisis in The natural antibacterial properties of away from the skin. The soft, breathable, bamboo, its main raw material. (Source: bamboo fabric come from an inherent knit fabrics also offer an antibacterial The Daily Star [Bangladesh], 17 July 2006.) quality of bamboo commonly called function, acting as a natural deodorant. “bamboo kun”. Bamboo does not require Bamboo fabrics have been featured in the use of pesticides because of this several of Canadian fashion icon Linda natural antifungal antibacterial agent. It is Lundstrom’s spring 2007 collection. Bamboo can grow 1.21 m in 24 hours rarely attacked by pests or infected by (Source: Fibre2fashion.com, 19 August and up to 30 m in two to three months. pathogens. The same natural substance 2006.) (Source: INBAR.) that protects bamboo growing in the field functions in the spun bamboo fibres. Bamboo power station Bamboo fibres are processed using a A northeastern Indian state, Mizoram, is patented manufacturing technology of set to make an environment-friendly power Building with bamboo – design hydroalkalization. Processed without the station that will run on bamboo. The state, competition addition of caustic additives, according to it is claimed, will possibly be the first in the Bamboo Technologies of Maui has ISO 9000 and ISO 14000 principles, bamboo world to use bamboo for producing power. launched the first International Design hypoallergenic fibres are the ideal The project coordinator said that this Competition for Structural Bamboo alternative for individuals with sensitive unique power station will use bamboo to Buildings. Bamboo is the next green skin. generate electricity and that it would not building evolution; the giant grass is a A quantitative antibacterial capability only be cost-effective but also highly renewable, restorative and versatile test was performed by the China Industrial ecofriendly. He said the power generation building material. Structural bamboo has Testing Centre from 7 to11 July 2003. One formula from bamboo is simple: the been certified for international building hundred percent bamboo fabric was tested harvested bamboo is dried and processed codes, the first time it has ever been code over a 24–hour incubation period with for feedstock to produce gas. (Source: All certified. bacterial strain type Staphylococcus Headline News [United States], 29 July The 2006/2007 International Competition aureus. After the 24–hour period the 2006.) encourages architects to apply their numbers of live bacteria were counted in creativity to the design of new buildings each sample. The results showed that 100 Bamboo shoots and paper mills using this ancient building material. The percent bamboo fabric exhibits a 99.8 Bamboo shoots are becoming too costly to winners will be announced in March 2007. percent antibacterial kill rate. (Source: dish up in Bangladesh. In fact, bamboo, a (Source: Canadian Architect, 10 August PR.Com, 12 September 2006.) valuable forest resource, is diminishing in 2006.) the Chittagong Hill Tracts (CHT) through Bamboo linen indiscriminate cutting of shoots and FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE VISIT: Fast-growing bamboo makes unlikely but extraction on a massive scale (mainly in the www.bamboocompetition.com or e-mail soft colourful linens and towels and rainy season despite a ban on extraction [email protected] manufacturers have discovered that from June to September) for use as a bamboo cloth mixed with a dash of cotton is vegetable. Bamboo shoots are a traditional Bamboo planting can slow deforestation silky to the touch. favourite not only among the indigenous Scientists may have found a way to slow Bamboo is mature enough to harvest in people but now also among Bangalees in deforestation. Fast-growing bamboo can three to five years and can be grown the hills. Large quantities of the shoots are quickly help replenish a forest stripped of without fertilizers or pesticides. finding their way to hotels and restaurants timber. Manufacturers are almost as excited about in big cities such as Dhaka and Chittagong. Chin Ong, at the International Centre for the ecological benefits as they are about According to Agriculture Extension Research in Agroforestry (ICRAF) in the soft sheets: finding a fibre as easily Department (AED) officials, during the Nairobi, Kenya says that one promising renewable as bamboo is a nice fit. monsoons at least Tk1.5 crore bamboo substitute for wood is bamboo, a grass with Towels and sheets have been made with shoots are extracted from forests in the a tree-like appearance. Some varieties a mix of either 70 percent bamboo, 30 CHT, which could produce Tk15 crore grow more than 25 m tall and 20 cm thick. percent cotton material or 65 percent bamboos if full grown. Ong points out that bamboo can be bamboo to 35 percent cotton. One The shoots are sold as vegetables in all grown all over the world and has manufacturer praised the linen since “it the 230 markets in 25 upazilas (division advantages over timber. One advantage is

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its speedy growth: bamboo can be The material, which uses plant-based resins Today, the industry employs some 7 500 harvested after three or four years and and bamboo fibres, is called “green plastic” people in Jiajiang County, about 60 percent of then every subsequent year because it is a and, because of its components, produces the local population, but a sharp decline grass, whereas a eucalyptus tree needs five fewer CO2 emissions and “volatile organic compared with the 40 000 workers employed to ten years before it can be harvested compounds”. in the 1930s, said Zhou. The county has again. Another advantage is that bamboo Mitsubishi also points out that the use of applied to include the technology in China’s has a very high water-use efficiency, which bamboo, which grows much more quickly first group of intangible cultural heritage. is double that of any tree species. than timber, will lower the risk of depleting (Source: People’s Daily Online [China], 6 June The plants could be an additional cash raw resources when mass-producing green 2006.) crop in areas where sugar cane and coffee plastic. (Source: Autoblog, 28 February 2006.) are already established. Ong estimates that in the Lake Victoria region of Kenya, United Bamboo vinegar Republic of Tanzania and Uganda, as many Bamboo vinegar is a by-product of bamboo as 150 million people could benefit carbonization. It contains 80 percent water. economically. When dehydrated, the vinegar consists of Plant biologist David Midmore of the 80–200 components, or approximately 32 Central Queensland University in Australia percent organic acid, 40 percent phenolic also points to bamboo’s environmental compound, 3 percent aldehyde, 5 percent benefits. “In Taiwan Province of China, alkone compound, 5 percent alcohol FOREST COSMETICS: bamboo is grown on the hillsides along the compound, and 4 percent ester compound %NWFP USE IN THE edge of the mountains and it is sustainably among others. BEAUTY INDUSTRY harvested for its shoots and for its timber. It Bamboo vinegar can be used as a soil is an environmentally friendly species fungicide, plant root growth promoter and Scientists: man’s vanity dates back to because it is also preventing any erosion.” deodorizer, or in the beauty industry (in prehistoric times In addition to providing lumber and food, soaps, cosmetics, bath ) and in health Men are vain by nature. At least that is what bamboo plants can clean the environment. drinks, medicines, etc. scientists in Dublin, Ireland have Chin Ong is studying how bamboo groves ascertained after examining prehistoric could remove toxins from dirty waters. FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT: bodies found in the peat bogs of the (Source: Voice of America, 29 August 2006.) Fu Jinhe Ph.D., Programme Officer and country. One of the bodies had Mohawk- Coordinator of IUFRO 5th November 2005 Bamboo style hair held in place by a gel substance. Vietnamese bamboo fences to enter Europe and Rattan, International Network for Bamboo Further research found that the gel was A Vietnamese and a Danish company have and Rattan (INBAR), 8 Fu Tong Dong Da Jie, Wang made of plant oil and pine resin imported joined forces to produce Danish-designed Jing Area, Chao Yang District, Beijing 100102-86, from southern France or Spain. This bamboo fences in Viet Nam to serve the China. Fax: +86-10-6470 2166; provides further proof that ancient Ireland significantly growing demand in northern e-mail: [email protected]; http://www.inbar.int traded with southern Europe even during Europe. prehistoric times. (Source: Komfie Manalo, The Vietnamese partner, the Bac Ninh Bamboo paper: centuries-old papermaking All Headline News, 2 August 2006.) Company, makes handicrafts for foreign handwork faces extinction markets whereas Prodex, the Danish A centuries-old tradition of making delicate Aboriginal knowledge and the beauty partner, develops, manufactures and rice paper for use in imperial courts is industry markets a range of garden products in seeking state support amid climbing costs The health and beauty industry is now Europe. The cooperation, supported by the and declining production. “Unless the beginning to harness the rich heritage of Danish Business-to-Business Programme, situation is remedied, our descendants will Aboriginal knowledge of native plants and combines Bac Ninh’s access to abundant only be able to recall the past glory in healing. For more than 40 000 years, bamboo raw materials and production museums,” said Zhou Jiehua, head of the Aboriginal Australians have continued a facilities in northern Viet Nam with Cultural Heritage Bureau in Jiajiang County, shared tradition of cultural and sacred Prodex’s design of durable bamboo fences, southwest China’s Sichuan Province. knowledge, known as the Dreamtime. technical skills and access to the European The “glory” he refers to is a 1 000-year-old In recent years, elements of this market. tradition of making handmade paper native indigenous culture – the rituals and use of The strategic cooperation between the to his county. Bamboo is used as the raw native ingredients – have been used in the two partners will focus on quality, material to make fine grain paper that was mainstream health and well-being sector. customization and an ability to make once used during imperial examinations and Indigenous ingredients have found their products from Vietnamese raw materials. is now used by 60 percent of China’s painters way into skin care formulations, the first of (Source: ScandAsia.com, 30 May 2006.) and calligraphers. which was the men’s grooming range, Zhou said that the traditional technique VitaMan. The VitaMan founders, Glenn Bamboo plastic involves a 72-step process. “Only five of the Kiddell and Clare Matthews, spent two Mitsubishi Motors Corp. announced that it 1 000 paper mills in the county are still years researching indigenous Australian has developed, with the Aichi Industrial strictly following these manual procedures – ingredients. They wanted to adopt previously Technology Institute, a new material to be all the others have simplified the production unused, unique Australian plant, herb and used in the interior of its future vehicles. process to cut costs and time.” fruit extracts which had a history of

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application by indigenous Australians. All shape of a leaf. It may also be applied from are important for the maintenance of the ingredients selected for use in VitaMan’s head to toe (thanaka chi zoun gaung zoun). healthy skin. formulations had to have scientific There are more than 20 companies that As people age, and particularly when validation, as well as proven effectiveness in package thanakha in solid, liquid, paste and they are stressed, these essential treating skin and hair problems. One such powder varieties. Of these, paste is the best- compounds are depleted. By applying ingredient is grass lily extract. selling form. Mauk Mei thanakha products with sea buckthorn oil, the skin Kiddell explains: “The Aborigines crushed paste, introduced on the market in 1991, is receives nutrients it may be missing. the plant and rubbed the juice on sores, cuts, produced by the Libra Company Ltd. The Tissue regeneration enhances the growth insect bites and sunburn, as it promoted paste, which is made from 97.2 percent pure of healthy cells while the antioxidant rapid healing. Scientific studies show this natural bark of the thanakha plant bark from properties help reverse the damaging extract increases rapid cell multiplication, Mauk Mei, is sold in bottles or wrapped in effects of the sun. (Source: ClickPress, 20 hence quickening the skin’s healing process.” thick paper. The other ingredients are June 2006.) Another star performer is quandong, or glycerine (a beautifying oil), preservatives, native peach, which features in VitaMan’s lemon scent and citric elements. Unlike new hair care range. The Aborigines used other thanakha products on the market, to crush up the seeds, mix them into a Libra adds a traditional herbal medicine with SEA BUCKTHORN OIL paste and then apply the paste to the hair to healing qualities for pimples and freckles. (HIPPOPHAE RHAMNOIDES) prevent damage caused by the harsh The factory’s high production and quality climate in the Australian outback. The oil control standards have been approved by The oil of the sea buckthorn berry has from the seeds is high in essential fatty the Food and Drug Administration and the long been used in Asia for treating acids and provides the hair with high- Standards, Productivity and Innovation various skin conditions. Its effectiveness quality protein both to nourish and Board of Singapore. is based on a combination of lipophilic strengthen it. (Source: Joanna Hall, The The thanakha manufacturing process compounds, working synergistically to Sunday Telegraph [in news.com.au, 27 involves selecting the bark, then washing protect and regenerate stressed skin cells August 2006.]) (Please also see under and steaming it to kill fungi, mould and and other protecting organs. All these Australia in Country Compass, p. 36.) bacteria. Machines are used to grind the beneficial compounds are derived from bark, sand and other impurities are filtered the berry of the sea buckthorn bush, Thanakha, Myanmar’s natural cosmetic out and excess water is removed. At the final which originally grew in the harsh have used thanakha for stage, extra ingredients, such as scents and climate of the Himalayas but has now centuries as a natural skin conditioner and preservatives, are added to the paste. spread all over the world. (Source: cosmetic, which they believe keeps The Yangon market for Taunggyi Mauk Beauty-on-line [Italy].) their complexions soft, well-textured and Mei thanakha is as big as the market in the youthful. Despite the growing number of rest of the country combined. This is modern cosmetics on the market, thanakha because many young girls believe that continues to be used by large numbers of packaged products contain chemicals that The scent of battle in Provence people who prefer traditional ways. will harm their skin. Instead they prefer to In July, the beauty giant L’Oréal wrapped up The cosmetic thanakha comes from the use thanakha that they grind themselves. its £652 million (US$1.2 billion), purchase bark of the thanakha tree (Limonia Libra produces about 5 000 bottles a day of L’Occitane’s longtime British rival, The acidissima), which grows in the dry zone of in the summer peak season and about Body Shop. The takeover has provoked central and upper Myanmar, particularly in 3 500 at other times of the year. Although shudders in the quirky market for natural and Magway divisions. However, Taunggyi Mauk Mei has not been exported, cosmetics. Both L’Occitane and The Body one well-known variety of thanakha, called the products are well known in China, Shop are 1970s-vintage companies. For shan khauk by locals, is grown in the small Thailand and Malaysia through merchants years, they cultivated a market niche faced southern town of Mauk Mei. who travel to these countries. (Source: The only by sedate competition. Thanakha trees are perennials, and a tree Myanmar Times, 12(221) and others.) But bigger players such as L’Oréal, the must be at least 35 years old before it is top-ranked cosmetics giant, have considered mature enough to yield good- New beauty products contain sea recognized the market’s potential as quality cuttings. Thanakha in its natural buckthorn oil demand for natural products increases, state is sold as small logs individually or in Skin Revolution has launched a new line of lifted by health concerns, according to the bundles but nowadays also as a paste or in skin care products containing sea London-based market research group powder form. buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) oil, a Euromonitor International. It forecast that The traditional way of making thanakha is natural anti-ageing ingredient. Historically the $3.9 billion global market for natural to grind the bark on a wet, circular stone, proven to be an effective natural skin care cosmetics would grow annually by 9 percent which forms a paste that can be applied to remedy, sea buckthorn oil promotes tissue through 2008 to $5.8 billion, compared with the skin as a sunscreen and cosmetic. The regeneration and also works as an a growth rate of 1 percent for conventional creamy paste is applied to the face in antioxidant. Biological studies suggest that cosmetics and personal care. attractive designs, the most common form the restorative action of sea buckthorn oil In the shifting landscape of natural being a circular patch on each cheek, may be a result of its high content of cosmetics, L’Occitane still occupies the sometimes made stripey with the fingers, essential fatty acids, carotenes, vitamin E, higher ground, with its best-selling shea known as thanaka bè gya, or patterned in the flavonoids and phytosterols – all of which butter hand cream selling for €17.50 for 5 oz

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(142 g). But its competitors, in Ajmal has nearly 100 retail outlets and Europe and Bath & Body Works are both earned revenues of $125 million in 2005. trying to move upmarket by developing THE MARKETING OF NATURAL (Source: Gulf News [United Arab Emirates], premium products for customers willing to PRODUCTS 2 September 2006.) pay more for little luxuries (a recent Body Shop product is made with wild babassu The following quotes are taken from European sales of natural cosmetics surge palms). The battle is not so much over price the promotional material of a variety According to The European Market for but quality. of natural beauty products. It is Natural Cosmetics, a 2006 publication by interesting to see how the NWFP Organic Monitor, natural cosmetic sales in content is emphasized in the marketing Europe are increasing at a fast rate with IT FORECAST THAT THE $3.9 BILLION of these products. revenues doubling every few years; the GLOBAL MARKET FOR NATURAL COSMETICS German and French natural cosmetics WOULD GROW ANNUALLY BY 9 PERCENT • “Products contain generous doses of markets are the fastest growing in Europe. THROUGH 2008 TO $5.8 BILLION cocoa butter and shea butter. Essential The report indicates that the market share is oils are also key” (bath products) highest in countries such as Germany and For its part, L’Occitane, based in Provence • “It is made up mostly of natural Austria where natural cosmetics comprise (France), is going back to its roots, offering ingredients including purified water, about 4 percent of total cosmetic sales. new lavender products that carry beeswax, shea butter, evening primrose However, the market share is approximately certification of natural and organic oil and algae extract” (sunscreen) 2 percent in most other European countries. ingredients. But its top-selling product is not • “Medicinal plant extracts from (Source: The European Market for Natural made from local home-grown ingredients, eyebright, black tea leaves and neem Cosmetics, Organic Monitor.) but rather from the nuts of the West African soothe the area around the eyes. karite tree that yield a fat called shea butter. Natural rose and jojoba waxes protect L’Oréal buys organic cosmetics company (Source: International Herald Tribune, 28 lashes” (mascara) Sanoflore July 2006.) • “products combine modern plant- French cosmetic giants seem to have the derived ingredients with traditional conviction that natural and organic Hunting for that fresh aroma botanical extracts, vitamins and pure cosmetics will be an important source of The Middle Eastern fragrance market has essential oils” and “pure organic growth and profits in the future. A few days shown remarkable fortitude. Arabic jojoba, shea butter and coconut oil” after announced its agreement with perfumes incorporate natural floral and (hair care) Kibio for the joint development of a line of resin scents discovered thousands of years • “contains herbs collected from the natural organic cosmetics, L’Oréal has ago, and were a major part of the US$590 forest” (cosmetics) announced its acquisition of Laboratoire million in Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC) • “contains super moisturizing shea Sanoflore, which pioneered the design, sales of perfume last year, according to butter, soothing aloe oil, healing manufacture and marketing of certified International Cosmetic News-Middle East. vitamin E and kukui nut oil” and “we organic cosmetics products 20 years ago in Last year the GCC fragrance market grew have embraced the natural elements of southeastern France. by 17 percent, led by sales in the United Arab the tropics by using sea salts, exotic oils Sanoflore handles all the stages in the Emirates and Saudi Arabia. Not one to be left and select plant extracts in our carefully aromatic and medicinal plant chain, from behind, the Ajmal Perfumes company has formulated products” (body care) cultivation with partner farmers to the begun creating new fragrances that straddle • “made of a blend of jasmine sambuc finished product. All Sanoflore cosmetics the worlds of East and West as tastes oil, sandalwood and tuberose” and products are certified by ECOCERT and change. Ajmal’s latest fragrances, Shadow (a “comes from aloe vera extract and labelled as organic products. (Source: man’s classic cologne with a spicy Arabic contains essential oils” (face care) Beauty-on-line [Italy], 24 October 2006.) enhancement) and Teyf (which includes the • “made with shea butter to help soothe age-old Arabic ingredient, oudh) have been cracked lips” () More men now buying cosmetics outstanding successes. • “along with other plant extracts such as The marketplace now offers men their own Originating from only five nations aloe vera, ginkgo biloba, shea butter” beauty products and, according to a new worldwide, oudh is oil produced by the (beauty products) Glamour magazine poll, men are using them. agarwood tree after a parasitic fungus • “containing plenty of natural Men account for 10 percent of cosmetic attacks it. The tree is harvested and boiled ingredients like willow bark extract and sales, according to the magazine’s August down to extract the precious oil, which can shea butter” (men’s skin care products) issue, which also reports that 63 percent of sell for up to Dh3 000 a tolla (11.3 g). Ajmal • “utilizing natural sea buckthorn oil to 1 529 women polled said that their man buys has patented the process of inoculating nourish, revitalize and restore damaged and uses skin and hair products. (Source: agarwood trees with the fungus, ensuring a or ageing skin” (skin care) Associated Press, 3 August 2006.) safe and sustainable supply of oudh. • “contains moringa seed” (night cream) At the Ajmal factory, one room contains • “a blend of topaz crystals, shea butter, Mushroom cosmetic line developed tanks holding priceless amounts of oudh tea tree, bergamot and lemon oils” The world’s first mushroom cosmetic line coming from different sources: Indonesia, (foot care) has been developed at the Koltsovo Scientific Assam – the region in India where the Ajmal Centre, Russian Federation. It took family originated – and others. specialists from the Trinity Research and

NON-WOOD NEWS No. 14 January 2007 8 SPECIAL FEATURES

Internationally, shea butter has become important for its therapeutic properties: it SHEA BUTTER can act as a mild ultraviolet barrier, protecting skin from the sun; has Natural shea butter is extracted from the regenerative and antiwrinkle properties; and nut of a fruit that grows only on the can be used in bath, beauty and body care magnifolia tree in central and western products such as soaps, creams and lotions. Africa. The nuts are boiled and then sun It also has a wide application in the dried for three to five days before they pharmaceutical industry, such as in are roasted to complete dehydration. suppositories. Production Company several years of Afterwards, the shea butter is extracted The growth rate of shea butter use in the research to develop the line. by hand from the nuts. This long, United States market alone has been By stepping into the mushroom kingdom, arduous process provides what is estimated at over 25 percent per year and scientists found a full spectrum of commonly called “the most beneficial continues to increase. biologically active substances that the skin all-natural skin product today”. Its potential could parallel cocoa and any needs: proteins, carbohydrates, lipids, Shea butter is fast becoming one of other cash produce in export earnings, minerals, organic acids and a rich collection the best-selling and most highly especially in Ghana – hence the name “liquid of vitamins, biotin and folic acid. (Source: recommended ingredients used in skin gold” in some circles. (Source: Daily Graphic Financial Information Service [Russian care products. Dermatologists are [Ghana], 5 July 2006.) Federation], 14 February 2006.) starting to recommend it to their patients and many cosmetic companies Shea butter’s role in the in France and the United States are African shea butter is fast becoming an using it in their products. essential ingredient in the American Healing properties. Shea butter has cosmetics industry since it is both rich in a vast number of proven healing vitamin and a natural and properties deriving from its physical emollient. The United States imports more makeup of vitamin E, vitamin A, spirit in Africa” than 500 tonnes of shea butter annually cinnamic acid and other elements. from Africa for the cosmetic industry alone. These ingredients speed up the healing Shea butter is found in lip balms, of wounds and improve scars. Shea , antiwrinkle creams and other butter is commonly used in the “Riches of the forest: for health, life and products. Many large cosmetic companies treatment of eczema, rashes, burns and UmMemezi bark: cosmetic use threatens include it in their product lines. It is severely dry skin. native tree processed from shea nuts grown and Skin protection. Shea butter gives The endangered UmMemezi tree grows harvested in managed parklands in about 16 natural ultraviolet sun protection. Daily wild in a small area of South Africa’s countries in sub-Saharan Africa, from use on the face and body drastically Eastern Cape Province, where poor village Senegal to Uganda in East Africa. Shea nuts reduces exposure to the sun, which in women in particular harvest its bark to are a natural resource coming only from turn slows down the rate of ageing supply a growing national market. Young these regions. caused by external factors. Xhosa women mix the powdered bark with The butter is obtained by processing the Skin moisturization. Shea butter a little water to make a pale, reddish-brown shea nuts using one of the following leaves the skin smooth, supple and paste, which they apply to their faces to methods: traditional, which involves soft. It is rapidly becoming the top conceal blemishes, improve their roasting, grinding, kneading, boiling and moisturizing agent used today. (Source: complexion and lighten their skin. Xhosa stirring (this method is highly labour Wayne Kiltz, Market-Day.net [United people consider a lighter skin tone to be intensive and is the one used by rural States], 19 September 2006.) more attractive and have used various women producers); or mechanical, which (Please also see pp. 40 and 55 for products as lightening agents. involves mechanization and is more efficient information on shea butter.) The growing trade in traditional and labour saving. It also uses chemicals preparations based on plants such as such as hexane to give a better yield. The UmMemezi (Cassipourea flanaganii) and a shea nuts, when well processed, yield 38–45 closely related species (C. gerardii), has seen percent butter, depending on the production Shea butter has a wide array of the bark become available in herbal street method. commercial uses in cosmetic soaps, markets and amayeza stores (chemists) Shea butter has a high percentage of pharmaceuticals and tanning, to mention throughout South Africa. However, the desire unsaponifiables, which include chemicals just a few, and its commercial importance to be light-skinned is posing a threat to these with known bioactive healing properties, has increased dramatically over the past six species because of overharvesting to supply including a number of antioxidants such as years. Traditionally, across West-East Africa, the urban demand. (Source: Riches of the tocopherols (vitamin E) and carotenoids it has been used as an emollient and forest: for health, life and spirit in Africa, eds (precursors to vitamin A). It has a healing moisturizer to treat dry cracked skin, as a C. Lopez and P. Shanley, 2004.) fraction of 3–12 percent as compared with massage oil for colds and sore muscles, and (Please also see Non-Wood News 13 for 1–3 percent in cocoa butter. for a host of minor skin problems. more information on forest cosmetics.) p

NON-WOOD NEWS No. 14 January 2007