Peer-reviewed article

NATURAL INGREDIENTS

Nattaya Lourith Thanaka loose powder and liquid preparations MAYUREE KANLAYAVATTANAKUL, NATTAYA LOURITH* *Corresponding author Mae Fah Luang University School of Cosmetic Science Chiang Rai, 57100, Thailand

0 and 90 following storage under ambient temperature with ABSTRACT: Thanaka or Naringi crenulata was evaluated light exposure. Hausner ratio and Carr index (%) were obtained in its physicochemical properties. Apparent density of from the densities by the followings: particulate (≤ 45 μm) stem and bark were 0.4514 ± 0.0060 and 0.5801 ± 0.0076 g/ml. SPF of the bark was greater Hausner ratio = Dtapped/Dbulk (1.51± 0.31) than stem (1.13 ± 0.04), although lower than Carr index (%) = 100 x [Dtapped – Dbulk]/Dtapped TiO (1.99 ± 0.09). Colour of the powders was stable 2 Where Dtapped = Tapped density following 6 cycles of heating-cooling similar to at under Dbulk = Bulk density different temperatures for 90 days (ΔE = 0.02 – 0.43). Stem wood was chosen to prepare loose powder based SPF of thanaka powders in propylene glycol (60% w/w) was on its lighter yellow and weight with a finer texture in monitored by SPF analyser (Optometrics LLC/SPF-290F, USA) addition to liquid absorptive that comparable to talcum. ® compared to TiO2. Colour was measured by UltraScan Pro The bark was prepared into o/w liquid foundation due to (Hunter Lab, USA) with a reflectance-specular in RSIN mode its higher SPF. The developed thanaka products were in a 10 mm glass cell at a port plate size of 1 in. Accelerated evaluated on their stability and preference in the stability test (3) of thanaka bark and stem was conducted panelist. by 6 cycles (48 h, each) of heating-cooling (45 and 4°C) in addition to storage at ambient, 4 and 45°C with and without light exposure for 90 days. The ingredients used for loose power and foundation formulations were those of cosmetic grade INTRODUCTION (Namsiang, Thailand). Covering, adhesiveness, slip and colour of the loose powders were determined. Densities of the best Natural are of important and receiving a highly formulation were evaluated following long term storage. The demand in the cosmetic consumer (1). There are several developed foundation was preliminary screened on stability by herbal cosmetics have been approached meeting the centrifugation assay at 3,000 rpm for 30 min (3). Colour stability consumers’ interest. However, some remain obscure and of the product was monitored on day 0, 3, 7, 15, 30, 60 and 90, lacking of the scientific supported. Naringi crenulata that stored under room temperature with light exposure. Viscosity commonly known as thanaka has been continuously served (Brookfield/RVD-II+Pro, USA) and pH (Mettler Toledo/S20, as the traditional cosmetics in and some part of Switzerland) were determined. Preference test was evaluated Thailand. Thanaka ground on the flat round stone moist with in 50 females aged 20-30 years old. All of the panelists were water for skin application. It has long been accepted both verbally and writing informed about this study, signed a as the herbal sunscreen with a skin lightening and nourishing written consent form, which was approved by the university’s effects. Although arbutin, skin lightening agent, had been ethical committee prior to enrollment. reported in thanaka (2), scientific evidence confers its sun protection efficacy is lacked. Physicochemical properties including colour stability are absented, although there are RESULTS AND DISCUSSION some thanaka cosmetics commercialized in the market. The characters relevant to thanaka formulation was subjected to Thanaka was harvested from the national forest of study and present in this research. Thailand as this source give the best plant quality as it was pharmacognostic comparatively specified compared with those from Myanmar (4). MATERIALS AND METHODS

N. crenulata was collected from the national forest in Northern Thailand. The bark and stem were separately dried and pulverized into powder (≤ 45 μm). Apparent, bulk and tapped densities Table 1. Flowability of thanaka stem wood and bark. were comparatively evaluated at day

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Apparent density was increased both in stem and bark following storage (Table 1). This might be influenced by inter-particle friction that reduced by time and powders were more packed. Those of stem that had fibre shape powder having lower density than bark and insignificantly increased (p < 0.05). Consequently, bulk and tapped densities of Table 3. Development of thanaka stem loose powder. stem were lower than bark and decreased with time. Although both of thanaka stem and bark had poor flowability respecting to Thus, success application of thanaka powder will liberates their Carr index and Hausner ratio that greater than 25 % more application in makeup cosmetics. Loose powder and 1.5, respectively. Bark was better flowed than stem. contained thanaka, zinc sterate, zinc oxide (13% w/w), SPF and colour of thanaka were next concerned. They were kaolin, MgCO3, jojoba oil, TiO2 (4% w/w), mica and pigment was formulated. evaluated compared with TiO2. The stem had higher SPF but lower than the standard sunscreen. The colour of thanaka Loose powders 1-4 were preliminary formulated. Preference bark was darker than stem due to the lower L* in addition to of the developed products was comparatively evaluated. more redness (a*) and greenness or b* (Table 2). Their covering, adhesiveness, slip and colour were graded from poor to excellent (+1 - +5) once they were applied as shown in Table 4. Formula 1 with better slip and adhesiveness was further developed into loose powder 5-7 with better covering property and more preference colour Table 2. Sun protection ability and colour of thanaka. but lower adhesiveness of which formula 7 was found as the best loose power. More preference towards formula 5-7 would contributed by The lighter yellow of the bark was therefore more attractive in colouring agent associated with dispersing agent improving cosmetics. Following accelerated test and 3 months storage the products’ texture. Formula 8 was therefore developed at three different temperatures, L*, a* and b* indicates with an achievement of application properties. The thanaka that colour of bark and stem were stable in loose powders were evaluated on their densities and colour particular ΔE was less change (< 1.5) as it was 0.02-0.43 that was unperceivable by human eye (5). Thanaka stem was therefore chosen for loose power (Table 3). This makeup cosmetics is a powder form product that used to achieve a matt, clear Table 4. Application property of thanaka stem loose powder. skin by reducing oily luster and stickiness (6). NATURAL INGREDIENTS

following 3 months storage at ambient temperature with Additional organic sunscreen (cinnamate) in the formulation light exposure. It was stable as shown in Table 5 in similar to also achieved SPF. the colour. All of the liquid foundation showed good skin adhesive (+3) The thanaka bark was further developed into sunscreen with the pH and viscosity range of 4.90-6.38 and 7,607-24,150 liquid foundation due to its greater SPF (Table 2). cp. The formulations remained homogeneous following centrifugation assay. Heating-cooling for 6 cycles were applied to evaluate the foundation stability (Table 7). pH and viscosity were insignificantly (p > 0.05) shifted. Sun protection potential of foundation 5 was comparable to formula 6. Table 5. Density of thanaka stem loose powder. Preference of both thanaka foundation was comparatively evaluated in 50 female volunteers aged 20-30 years old.

Liquid foundation is popularly used in Europe and United States and Asia as well. This makeup cosmetics can change the skin colour as desired, bringing skin luster and cover up those of spots and freckles in addition to its sunscreen function (6). Foundation containing xantan gum, vee gum, water, propylene glycol, methyl Table 7. Stability of the foundation. paraben, triethanolamine, tween 80, lecithin, glyceryl monostearate, isopropyl myristate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, jojoba oil, isostearic acid, propyl paraben, pigment, Level of preference was scored from poor to excellence (+1

ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate and TiO2 were formulated. – +5) once the volunteers applied the product. SPF of the foundation containing TiO2 and thanaka bark was Texture, wearability, spreadability, odour, covering improved (Table 6). effect, skin colour matching, feeling, viscosity, greasy and total preference were measured by questionnaires. Each preference parameter of foundation 6 was greater than foundation 5 (data not shown) in particular total preference (2.65 ± 0.67).

Table 6. Development of thanaka bark liquid foundation. CONCLUSION

Thanaka stem and bark powders could be applied as herbal loose powder and sunscreen foundation meeting the cosmetics consumer’s demand on natural cosmetics (1). More important, this presenting scientific evidence is support the traditionally used of this natural sunscreen in addition to its whitening effect (2). Formulation of these herbal cosmetics is promising for the wish to pursue the consumer’s preference.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

This research was financially supported by Mae Fah Luang University. Ms. Wasinee Wilaping is acknowledged for her technical contribution.

REFERENCES AND NOTES

1. A.O. Barel, M. Paye et al., Handbook of cosmetic science and technology, Marcel Dekker, pp. 543-544 (2001). 2. N. Lourith, M. Kanlayavattanakul et al., Cosmetics: types, allergies and applications, Nova Science Publisher, pp. 157- 164 (2011). 3. N. Lourith, M. Kanlayavattanakul et al., J. Health Res., 23, pp. 159-162 (2009). 4. M. Kanlayavattanakul, A. Phrutivorapongkul et al., J. Health Res., 23, pp. 65-69 (2009). 5. G. Stark, JP. Fawcett et al., Int. J. Pharm., 143, pp. 93-100 (1996). 6. T. Mitsui, New Cosmetic Science, Elsevier, pp. 370-405 (1997).

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