NATURALLY BEAUTIFUL COSMETIC AND BEAUTY PRODUCTS FROM FORESTS Published by the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations and Non-Timber Forest Products-Exchange Programme Bangkok, 2020 Contents i Required citation: FAO and Non-Timber Forest Products-Exchange Programme. 2020. Naturally beautiful – Cosmetic and beauty products from forests. Bangkok. https://doi.org/10.4060/ca8590en The designations employed and the presentation of material in this information product do not imply the expression of any opinion whatsoever on the part of the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) or NTFP-EP concerning the legal or development status of any country, territory, city or area or of its authorities, or concerning the delimitation of its frontiers or boundaries. 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Naturally Beautiful ii Contents Acknowledgements .......................................................................................... vii Acronyms and abbreviations ............................................................................ viii Preface ............................................................................................................. x Introduction .................................................................................................... 1 Cosmetic and beauty products from forests in Asia and the Pacific................. 5 Forests and beauty: overview and synthesis...................................................... 9 Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities and Threats (SWOT) to NWFPs......... 19 Traditional uses for cosmetics and synthesis .................................................... 29 Case 1: Wild Turmeric.................................................................... 32 Case 2: Indian Soapberry ................................................................ 38 Case 3: Thanaka ............................................................................. 44 NWFP benefits for the beauty sector .............................................................. 51 Case 4: Forest Honey...................................................................... 54 Case 5: Seabuckthorn ..................................................................... 66 Case 6: Manila Elemi...................................................................... 72 Trends in the beauty and cosmetics industry ................................................... 83 Case 7: Langsat ............................................................................... 88 Case 8: Gurjum Balsam .................................................................. 96 Case 9: Hazel Sterculia ................................................................... 104 Contributions to rural/forest livelihoods in Asia and the Pacific ..................... 115 Case 10: Medicinal Spa .................................................................. 118 Case 11: Spikenard ......................................................................... 130 Case 12: Sandalwood ...................................................................... 140 Discussions and conclusions: challenges and way forward ............................... 151 References ....................................................................................................... 155 Annex: Initial list of NWFPs used as beauty products..................................... 166 Contents iii Tables, Figures and Boxes Tables Table 1. Characteristics of selected non-wood forest products’ production for use in beauty and cosmetics products ...................................... 10 Table 2. SWOT analysis – characteristics of selected NWFPs used in cosmetics markets ........................................................................... 20 Table 3. Price of forest honey at the farmer level.......................................... 59 Table 4. Major components of Manila elemi oil........................................... 78 Table 5. Income from NWFP collection by rural communities in Asia-Pacific countries ...................................................................... 116 Table 6. Comparison of values from the exploitation and production of Red Dzao medicinal spa in Sapa..................................................... 129 Table 7. Sandalwood harvests (Tonnage) and landowner benefit (Vatu) for 2009 to 2014............................................................................. 145 Table 8-9. Sandalwood exports ........................................................................ 146 Figures Figure 1. Dried soapberries ............................................................................ xii Figure 2. Thanaka selling ............................................................................... 18 Figure 3. Sandalwood seedlings...................................................................... 28 Figure 4. Turmeric processing ........................................................................ 32 Figure 5. Fruits of a soapberry tree ................................................................ 38 Figure 6. Annual price paid to soapberry collectors in the Nilgiris Biosphere Reserve, Tamil Nadu ...................................................... 42 Figure 7. A boy using thanaka as a sunscreen for his face .............................. 44 Figure 8. Stone plate used to grind wet thanaka powder ............................... 50 Figure 9. Huge beehives from the forest of Indonesia .................................... 54 Figure 10. Map of JMHI members .................................................................. 55 Figure 11. A nest of A. dorsata, consisting of a single exposed hanging comb ... 57 Figure 12. A rafter or tikung ............................................................................ 60 Figure 13. Seabuckthorn fruit .......................................................................... 66 Figure 14. Tall Manila Elemi tree .................................................................... 72 Figure 15. A mature Canarium tree ................................................................. 73 Figure 16. Manila elemi is packaged in coconut shells..................................... 74 Figure 17. The bolo and wooden mallet used for tapping the trunk of Canarium tree and the traditional method of tapping .................... 76 Naturally Beautiful iv Figure 18. Chemical structure of α- and β-amyrins......................................... 79 Figure 19. Seabuckthorn fruit .......................................................................... 82 Figure 20. Natural beauty trends ..................................................................... 83 Figure 21. Beauty category growth performance, 2013 vs 2014 ...................... 84 Figure 22. Langsat fruit.................................................................................... 88 Figure 23. The green science of the MTIC.....................................................