The Holoholo Guide to

1 by Shannon Wianecki moloka‘imol oka‘(opposite i page) One of the best views of Kalaupapa is from the back of a mule. (this page) Anakala Pilipo Solatorio at Mo‘oula Falls in Hālawa Valley.

it’s one of the least developed Hawaiian islands,

but Moloka‘i is also packed with adventure and beauty. shannon wianecki photo:

38 HONOLULUMAGAZINE.COM April 2017 HONOLULUMAGAZINE.COM April 2017 39 This road leads to Mo‘omomi.

GETTING THERE Small commuter airlines offer the quickest, most Makani Kai Air flies to Moloka‘i, and O‘ahu. scenic flights to Moloka‘i. Check-in is hassle-free Book with them for affordable vacation packages and the nine-seat Cessnas fly low. En route you’ll and charter flights. catch mesmerizing views of ancient fishponds and (808) 834-1111, makanikaiair.com sheer sea cliffs. If puddle-jumpers aren’t your thing, hop one of serves Hawai‘i’s major air- ’ flashy turbo-prop planes. ports and tiny airstrips. Baggage costs extra, but They travel between and Ho‘olehua five pets fly free! times daily. (866) 495-4188, mokuleleair.com (800) 367-5320, hawaiianairlines.com What was Hawai‘i like before traffic lights, chain stores IS MOLOKA‘I WW Fly into Moloka‘i on a Makani Kai Air plane. and resorts? Find out on Moloka‘i, the least touristy, ACTUALLY most Hawaiian of the main islands. Life is deliciously THE FRIENDLY slow-paced here. Water What to laps over the barrier reef— Bring the longest in the state. ISLE?

Drivers mosey along two- oloka‘i has 7,345 residents and 7,345 opinions. Probably lane Kamehameha V High- more. Locals even argue over the island’s name—whether it’s or Moloka‘i. Hand-painted road signs extol way, dodging opportunistic opinions and advice: “HAWAIIAN LANDS IN HAWAIIAN mongoose and deer. Many HANDS.” “MOLOKAI NOT FOR SALE. JUST VISIT.” MLocal activists have successfully staved off development: They’ve waded into Island residents still live off the water to shoo cruise ships away and shuttered resorts. But some residents the land and are determined want development, so their kids don’t have to move off island for work. That’s the crux of every controversy, from the scuttled wind farm to Monsanto’s to keep it that way. cornfields. In such a small community, neighbors often oppose each other on ❒ one issue, only to fight side by side on another. So, yes, despite political divi- ‘ukulele –to play sions, genuine friendliness (otherwise known as aloha) is the glue that holds along with kanikapila this place together. (jam sessions) GETTING AROUND Ka Hula Piko dancers at Pu‘u Nana A trip to Moloka‘i strips away your pretense. No one here cares what you ❒ Cars on Moloka‘i are necessary, pricey and in short If you strike out with wear or where you work, but rather who you are and how you act. For better or gifts – for your new friends supply. Book well in advance. these two companies, worse, everyone on Moloka‘i gets treated like family. Mind your manners and ask around. Somebody Alamo has an office at the airport. you’ll likely end up in somebody’s carport, your arms loaded with backyard ❒ reusable shopping has a friend who will mangoes and a cheeky toddler. If that’s not your idea of a warm welcome, alamo.com, (808) 567-6381. bag – for Friendly’s and the rent you a beat-up Moloka‘i might not be the island for you. Moloka‘i Car Rental has an office in Kaunakakai but Buick complete with Saturday market will leave a car for you at the airport. beach chairs and a ❒ shorts and slippers molokaicars.com (808) 336-0670. cooler. For real. POWERFUL LEGACY – no need get fancy! ❒ snacks – restaurants The island has another nickname: priests were so powerful they could are sparse Moloka‘i Pule O‘o, the place of turn back approaching war canoes CHASING CELL/ powerful prayer. with chant alone. A strong spirituality ❒ extra phone/ It’s said to be the home of still permeates this island. camera batteries – juice INTERNET SERVICE Hawaiian sorcery, and ancient for daylong adventures Good luck. You will hold your cell phone up like a dowsing rod looking for bars. Find free wi-fi at the public library. photo: shannon wianecki photo: croxford planes: david child with ukulele: bigstock; photo: Tip:

40 HONOLULUMAGAZINE.COM April 2017 HONOLULUMAGAZINE.COM April 2017 41 WHERE TO STAY Bucket List Hotel Moloka‘i Visit Kalaupapa This retro oceanfront hotel is the heart Swim in Mo‘oula Falls at Hālawa of what little action there is on Moloka‘i. See the Mo‘omomi sand dunes Rooms in the A-frame bungalows are simply Attend Ka Hula Piko furnished, with microwaves and mini-fridges. Sing along at a kanikapila It’s worth splurging on the second-story suites with oceanfront balconies. Avoid the rooms next to the road—or bring earplugs. Check the website for airfare and rental car packages. 1300 Kamehameha V Highway, Kaunakakai, hotelmolokai.com, (808) 660-3408

Wavecrest Condos Halfway between Kaunakakai and Hālawa, Wavecrest Condos overlook the fringing reef. Individually owned units are serene and upscale, with fully stocked kitchens, wi-fi and pool access. Don’t miss the sunrise from your lānai—spectacular. Entertainment 7148 Kamehameha V Highway, Kaunakakai, Nothing beats a Moloka‘i kanikapila. molokai-vacation-rental.net, (800) 367-2984, Every Friday afternoon, the Hotel or vrbo.com Moloka‘i dining room fills with kūpu- na carrying ‘ukulele and wearing their finest lei. One by one they be- The coastal ((808) 834-5813, makanikaiair.com) and Moku- glyphs on the boulders. halawavalleymolokai. County campgrounds: Purchase permits gin strumming old Hawaiian songs at the Mitchell Pauole Center, 90 Ainoa St., Kaunakakai, views from Kalaupapa TOURS lele Airlines (mokuleleairlines.com (808) 495- com, (808) 542-1855. If you don’t want to hike, until everyone is singing along. The Monday through Friday, 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. (808) 553-3204 are unparalleled. 4188). The hiking trail zigzags down the steep, park at the end of the road and gaze into the As kama‘āina, you might resent the idea of festivities are even finer at Coffees forested cliff face—descending from 1,780 valley from the rocky beach. Saint Damien bust taking a tour. But on Moloka‘i, tours are key to of Hawai‘i on Tuesdays, when clar- One Ali‘i in Kalaupapa church accessing the island’s richest treasures. feet in elevation to sea level in 3.2 miles. Be The Nature Conservancy leads monthly inet players and drummers join in Just outside of Kaunakakai, this beachfront prepared for a strenuous and muddy trek. hikes into two preserves special enough to even when the shop is temporarily park favors convenience over privacy. The Bring raingear, sunscreen and water. Alter- warrant planning your trip around. Kamak- closed. sandy beach here is good for sunbathing but Kalaupapa nately, you can ride along with the Kalaupapa ou encompasses 2,774 acres near the top of Tuesday, 10 a.m. to noon at Kalaupapa is one of the planet’s most too shallow for swimming. Make sure to Guided Mule Tour (a land access dispute Moloka‘i’s highest peak. The mist-shroud- Coffees of Hawai‘i explore the neighboring fishpond. beautiful and heart-wrenching destina- may threaten the mule rides’ future) ((808) ed forest and bog are home to hundreds of Near mile marker 4, Kamehameha V tions. A massive landslide 1.5 million years 567-6088, muleride.com). If heights make you native plant species, colorful tree snails and Friday, 4 to 6 p.m. at Hotel Moloka‘i Highway (450) ago sheared off half of Moloka‘i, leaving the queasy, you might want to close your eyes the extremely rare oloma‘o (Moloka‘i thrush). world’s tallest sea cliffs in its wake. Later, a as your sure-footed steed navigates the 26 A hike along a boardwalk culminates in an Papohaku Beach Park small volcanic eruption at the base of these dizzying switchbacks. astonishing peek into Pelekunu Valley. Mark your calendar for various If Maleficent (the villainess inSleeping Beau- cliffs formed a protruding shelf of land—Ka- No matter how you get to Kalaupapa, you The last intact Hawaiian sand dune system festivals throughout the year that are ty) designed a campground, it might resemble laupapa (flat leaf) peninsula. Enveloped in must prearrange to meet Damien Tours survives at Mo‘omomi—and it is magnificent. worth attending: sea mist, the staggering cliffs, lush vegetation Papohaku. A beautiful golden beach beckons ((808) 567-6171, damientoursllc.com) at 10 Silver rosettes of ‘ena‘ena carpet the dunes, Ka Hula Piko, Moloka‘i Ranch just beyond the tent site—a fenced patch of and offshore islets are achingly lovely. But a.m. The four-hour bus tour is required and where ‘ua‘u kani (wedge-tailed shearwater) Rodeo, Makahiki, and the bare dirt covered in kiawe thorns long enough it’s the human history that leaves the biggest absolutely worth the $50. While visiting chicks hide in underground burrows. Subfos- Christmas Light Parade. Check to puncture a tire! BYOR (Bring Your Own impression here. St. Philomena Church, a small museum sils found here reveal the secrets of ancient visitmolokai.com for details. Rake). Kaluakoi Road Between 1866 and 1969, any Hawai‘i and Saint Damien’s grave, you’ll learn how times. Hikes are free but reservations are resident showing symptoms of leprosy (now clever patients made the best of their life in necessary. nature.org, (808) 553-5236, State campground: Reserve online at: known as Hansen’s Disease) was forcibly exiled isolation here. [email protected] camping.ehawaii.gov (808) 567-6923 to this isolated shore, without hope of recovery or reunion with their loved ones. More than Hālawa Valley Ocean Adventure Pala‘au State Park 8,000 patients built a community here, even Beginning with traditional Hawaiian Paddling a kayak or stand-up board over the Tucked into the misty upland forest, this as their bodies failed. The disease can now be protocol, the Solatorio family will guide you mosaic of Moloka‘i’s fringing coral reef is a campground is relatively private and offers treated and the isolating laws lifted. A handful into Hālawa Valley—a lush and storied place. thrilling experience. Moloka‘i Outdoors offers picnic tables, bathrooms and showers. A short of patients still live here, by choice. During the four-hour hike, you’ll pass through “downwinder” tours for all skill levels. You’ll walk takes you to the Kalaupapa Lookout and There are only three ways to visit Kalaupa- taro patches, streams and archeological sites paddle with the wind at your back 4 to 8 miles Phallic Rock. $12 per night for up to six people. pa: fly, hike or ride a mule. Flights to the tiny to finally reach a marvelous swimming hole down the coast, where a shuttle retrieves you.

Top of Kalae Highway (470) airstrip can be arranged through Makani Kai shannon wianecki photos: guarded by a mo‘o (lizard god). Look for petro- molokai-outdoors.com (877) 553-4477

42 HONOLULUMAGAZINE.COM April 2017 HONOLULUMAGAZINE.COM April 2017 43 Kualapu‘u Cookhouse Stop by the Moloka‘i Get hamburger steak or baby back ribs with guava Shopping Museum for some sauce at this charming, home-style diner. BYOB is plantation history. easy with the market across the street. Cash only. KALELE BOOKSTORE 102 Farrington Ave., Kualapu‘u, (808) 567-9655 Teri Waros is the patron saint of visitors to Moloka‘i. She’ll get you sorted with a cup of coffee and Hale Kealoha advice on where to go and who to This oceanfront restaurant and bar serves straight- seek out. Her bookshelves teem forward American cuisine with a few local twists: with rare volumes, fine art, toys smoked meat in the Maunaloa omelet for breakfast, and jewelry. Occasionally local a taro and breadfruit burger for lunch, and stuffed musicians drop in to serenade her pork chops for dinner. Don’t miss the Friday night and her lucky customers. ‘ukulele jam session. 64 Ala Mālama Ave., Kaunakakai, 1300 Kamehameha V Highway, Kaunakakai, (808) 553-5112, molokaispirit.com (808) 660-3400 KUPU ‘AE Manae Goodz & Grindz Three local mothers launched this studio and shop, where they The smiling staff at this takeout window serves the silkscreen pareos and pillows with only hot food for miles in either direction. The plate It’s always a good time for a fresh-fish sandwich. luscious prints inspired by native lunches, sandwiches, and breakfast burritos are sol- trees, shellfish and birds. id. Hit the icebox inside for ice creams and snacks on your way back from exploring Hālawa Valley. At Holomua Junction 2130 8615 Kamehameha V Highway (450) near mile marker Maunaloa Highway, Kaunaka- kai, kupuaemolokai.com, (808) GRINDS 16, (808) 558-8498 646-1504 CULTURE Phallic Rock Stock up for your stay at Kaunakakai’s two grocery Nearby the Kalaupapa Overlook, a short hike stores: Friendly Market Center (90 Ala Māla- Sundown Deli BIG WIND KITE FACTORY Ali‘i and Kaloko‘eli Fishponds takes you to a large phallus-shaped rock. To The old Maunaloa plantation ma Ave., Kaunakakai, (808) 553-5595) and Misaki’s This small deli serves simple sandwiches, salads Moloka‘i is renowned for its fishponds, this day, women bring offerings and spend town has an abandoned feel, (78 Ala Mālama Ave., Kaunakakai, (808) 553-5505). and soups—including vegetarian options. which decorate the coastline like necklac- the night here in hopes of conceiving a child. If it’s Sunday, you’ll be limited to Moloka‘i 145 Puali Place, Kaunakakai, (808) 553-3713, which makes this colorful shop all the more of an anomaly. es. Ali‘i and Kaloko‘eli are historic land- Pala‘au State Park, top of Kalae Highway (35 Mohala St., (808) 553-4447), which sundowndeli.com Minimart Find the owners’ handmade marks, evidence of advanced aquaculture stocks a surprising number of gourmet and organic th kites tucked in amid Tibetan dating back to the 14 century. Volunteers Moloka‘i Museum items. Locals may call tiny C Pascua Store (109 Coffees of Hawai‘i antiquities, wacky postcards and restore the fishponds’ rock walls, repair Learn about the island’s colorful plantation era Ala Mālama Ave., Kaunakakai (808) 553-5443) “the Get your caffeine fix in the gift shop here, by the cup Hawaiian folklore. the sluice gates and remove invasive spe- at this small museum and restored sugar mill. junk food store,” but you can find ripe mangoes and or the bag. The popular café is temporarily closed, but cies. Lend a hand: Kalae Highway near mile marker 4, Island-raised prawns here. For the widest selection that hasn’t put a damper on the Tuesday morning jam 120 Maunaloa Highway, Mau- naloa, (808) 552-2364 kahonuamomona.org, (808) 553-8353 (808) 567-6436 of local produce, hit Kaunakakai’s Saturday sessions. Local kūpuna and visiting musicians gather morning farmers market or head to Kumu once a week at 10 a.m. to sing their favorite ballads on MOLOKAI FISH & DIVE Farms (Hua Ai Road, (808) 351-3326), where you can the large lānai. It’s truly island’s best entertainment. Book a scuba dive or whale watch feast on ripe (and relatively inexpensive) papayas, The crowd spills into the parking lot! tour here, then shop for locally apple bananas, organic vegetables, and numerous 1630 Farrington Ave., Kualapu‘u, (808) 567-9490, designed T-shirts, books and jams and cheeses. coffeesofhawaii.com straw hats. OMIYAGE 53 Ala Mālama Ave., Kaunaka- kai, molokaifishanddive.com, Plumeria Lei molokaiplumerias.com, with charcoal) and alaea (808) 553-5926 Hit up Molokai Plumeria 1342 Maunaloa Highway, (red clay). Farm for fresh Kaunakakai, (808) 553-3391 pacificahawaiisalt.com flower lei on the way Only on Moloka‘i to the airport. The Pacifica Hawai‘i Salt Moloka‘i Muleskinner perfumed orchard For centuries Hawaiians Coffee POST-A-NUT KIOEA BRISTLE- MIDNIGHT BREAD RUN ILIMA LEI boasts many vari- have harvested pa‘akai (sea A bag of Moloka‘i Muleskin- THIGHED CURLEW eties of plumeria, salt) from crevices carved ner coffee makes a great gift. The Ho‘olehua Post Office Why are people disappear- When was the last time ranging from yellow into lava rock. In 1901, the 1630 Farrington Ave., gained fame after its This migratory shorebird ing into the alley behind you saw a fresh ‘ilima flower Kaunakakai salt works Kualapu‘u, (808) 567-9490, infinitely patient postmaster has a long, curved bill and Kanemitsu Bakery between lei? Auntie Toochie Kalipi to magenta. If you coffeesofhawaii.com Gary Lam began helping prefers Moloka‘i to all the 10 p.m. and 1 a.m.? They’re famously strings hundreds have time, stay for supplied Moloka‘i and the customers decorate and other Hawaiian Islands. The scooping up oven-fresh of delicate yellow-orange a short tour and Mainland. Nearly 100 years mail coconuts. Why not send official mascot of Kaunakakai loaves of bread stuffed with blossoms into the lei once workshop (available later, Nancy Gove revived Bumper Sticker a little aloha of your own? can be found roosting in the jam, cinnamon and sugar, reserved for royalty. Catch with advance notice the industry, producing “Wouldn’t you rather be Nuts are free; postage to the monkeypod outside Moloka‘i or cream cheese. Cash only; a glimpse of her creations for $25). You might locally harvested, gourmet riding a mule on Moloka‘i?” If Mainland runs around $12. Elementary School or by closed Monday nights. at the twice-weekly kanika- be surprised by how sea salts in eight flavors you can find one of these clas- second base at the nearby pila sessions. 69-2 Pu‘upe‘elua Ave., 79 Ala Mālama Ave., much you’ll learn. including black lava (mixed sic bumper stickers, nab it! ball field. Ho‘olehua. (808) 567-6144 Kaunakakai, (808) 553-5855

photos: david croxford david photos: shannon wianecki plumeria farm: croxford; museum: david molokai photos: 0 Stop and smell the plumerias at this farm.

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