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The Holoholo Guide To The Holoholo Guide to 1 by Shannon Wianecki moloka‘imol oka‘(opposite i page) One of the best views of Kalaupapa is from the back of a mule. (this page) Anakala Pilipo Solatorio at Mo‘oula Falls in Hālawa Valley. it’s one of the least developed Hawaiian islands, but Moloka‘i is also packed with adventure and beauty. shannon wianecki photo: 38 HONOLULUMAGAZINE.COM April 2017 HONOLULUMAGAZINE.COM April 2017 39 This road leads to Mo‘omomi. GETTING THERE Small commuter airlines offer the quickest, most Makani Kai Air flies to Moloka‘i, Maui and O‘ahu. scenic flights to Moloka‘i. Check-in is hassle-free Book with them for affordable vacation packages and the nine-seat Cessnas fly low. En route you’ll and charter flights. catch mesmerizing views of ancient fishponds and (808) 834-1111, makanikaiair.com sheer sea cliffs. If puddle-jumpers aren’t your thing, hop one of Mokulele Airlines serves Hawai‘i’s major air- Hawaiian Airlines’ flashy turbo-prop planes. ports and tiny airstrips. Baggage costs extra, but They travel between Honolulu and Ho‘olehua five pets fly free! times daily. (866) 495-4188, mokuleleair.com (800) 367-5320, hawaiianairlines.com What was Hawai‘i like before traffic lights, chain stores IS MOLOKA‘I WW Fly into Moloka‘i on a Makani Kai Air plane. and resorts? Find out on Moloka‘i, the least touristy, ACTUALLY most Hawaiian of the main islands. Life is deliciously THE FRIENDLY slow-paced here. Water What to laps over the barrier reef— Bring the longest in the state. ISLE? Drivers mosey along two- oloka‘i has 7,345 residents and 7,345 opinions. Probably lane Kamehameha V High- more. Locals even argue over the island’s name—whether it’s Molokai or Moloka‘i. Hand-painted road signs extol way, dodging opportunistic opinions and advice: “HAWAIIAN LANDS IN HAWAIIAN mongoose and deer. Many HANDS.” “MOLOKAI NOT FOR SALE. JUST VISIT.” MLocal activists have successfully staved off development: They’ve waded into Island residents still live off the water to shoo cruise ships away and shuttered resorts. But some residents the land and are determined want development, so their kids don’t have to move off island for work. That’s the crux of every controversy, from the scuttled wind farm to Monsanto’s to keep it that way. cornfields. In such a small community, neighbors often oppose each other on ❒ one issue, only to fight side by side on another. So, yes, despite political divi- ‘ukulele –to play sions, genuine friendliness (otherwise known as aloha) is the glue that holds along with kanikapila this place together. (jam sessions) GETTING AROUND Ka Hula Piko dancers at Pu‘u Nana A trip to Moloka‘i strips away your pretense. No one here cares what you ❒ Cars on Moloka‘i are necessary, pricey and in short If you strike out with wear or where you work, but rather who you are and how you act. For better or gifts – for your new friends supply. Book well in advance. these two companies, worse, everyone on Moloka‘i gets treated like family. Mind your manners and ask around. Somebody you’ll likely end up in somebody’s carport, your arms loaded with backyard Alamo has an office at the airport. ❒ reusable shopping has a friend who will mangoes and a cheeky toddler. If that’s not your idea of a warm welcome, alamo.com, (808) 567-6381. bag – for Friendly’s and the rent you a beat-up Moloka‘i might not be the island for you. Moloka‘i Car Rental has an office in Kaunakakai but Buick complete with Saturday market will leave a car for you at the airport. beach chairs and a ❒ shorts and slippers molokaicars.com (808) 336-0670. cooler. For real. POWERFUL LEGACY – no need get fancy! ❒ snacks – restaurants The island has another nickname: priests were so powerful they could are sparse Moloka‘i Pule O‘o, the place of turn back approaching war canoes CHASING CELL/ powerful prayer. with chant alone. A strong spirituality ❒ extra phone/ It’s said to be the home of still permeates this island. camera batteries – juice INTERNET SERVICE Hawaiian sorcery, and ancient for daylong adventures Good luck. You will hold your cell phone up like a dowsing rod looking for bars. Find free wi-fi at the public library. photo: shannon wianecki photo: croxford planes: david child with ukulele: bigstock; photo: Tip: 40 HONOLULUMAGAZINE.COM April 2017 HONOLULUMAGAZINE.COM April 2017 41 WHERE TO STAY Bucket List Hotel Moloka‘i Visit Kalaupapa This retro oceanfront hotel is the heart Swim in Mo‘oula Falls at Hālawa of what little action there is on Moloka‘i. See the Mo‘omomi sand dunes Rooms in the A-frame bungalows are simply Attend Ka Hula Piko furnished, with microwaves and mini-fridges. Sing along at a kanikapila It’s worth splurging on the second-story suites with oceanfront balconies. Avoid the rooms next to the road—or bring earplugs. Check the website for airfare and rental car packages. 1300 Kamehameha V Highway, Kaunakakai, hotelmolokai.com, (808) 660-3408 Wavecrest Condos Halfway between Kaunakakai and Hālawa, Wavecrest Condos overlook the fringing reef. Individually owned units are serene and upscale, with fully stocked kitchens, wi-fi and pool access. Don’t miss the sunrise from your lānai—spectacular. Entertainment 7148 Kamehameha V Highway, Kaunakakai, Nothing beats a Moloka‘i kanikapila. molokai-vacation-rental.net, (800) 367-2984, Every Friday afternoon, the Hotel or vrbo.com Moloka‘i dining room fills with kūpu- na carrying ‘ukulele and wearing their finest lei. One by one they be- The coastal ((808) 834-5813, makanikaiair.com) and Moku- glyphs on the boulders. halawavalleymolokai. County campgrounds: Purchase permits gin strumming old Hawaiian songs at the Mitchell Pauole Center, 90 Ainoa St., Kaunakakai, views from Kalaupapa TOURS lele Airlines (mokuleleairlines.com (808) 495- com, (808) 542-1855. If you don’t want to hike, until everyone is singing along. The Monday through Friday, 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. (808) 553-3204 are unparalleled. 4188). The hiking trail zigzags down the steep, park at the end of the road and gaze into the As kama‘āina, you might resent the idea of festivities are even finer at Coffees forested cliff face—descending from 1,780 valley from the rocky beach. Saint Damien bust taking a tour. But on Moloka‘i, tours are key to of Hawai‘i on Tuesdays, when clar- One Ali‘i in Kalaupapa church accessing the island’s richest treasures. feet in elevation to sea level in 3.2 miles. Be The Nature Conservancy leads monthly inet players and drummers join in Just outside of Kaunakakai, this beachfront prepared for a strenuous and muddy trek. hikes into two preserves special enough to even when the shop is temporarily park favors convenience over privacy. The Bring raingear, sunscreen and water. Alter- warrant planning your trip around. Kamak- closed. sandy beach here is good for sunbathing but Kalaupapa nately, you can ride along with the Kalaupapa ou encompasses 2,774 acres near the top of Tuesday, 10 a.m. to noon at Kalaupapa is one of the planet’s most too shallow for swimming. Make sure to Guided Mule Tour (a land access dispute Moloka‘i’s highest peak. The mist-shroud- Coffees of Hawai‘i explore the neighboring fishpond. beautiful and heart-wrenching destina- may threaten the mule rides’ future) ((808) ed forest and bog are home to hundreds of Near mile marker 4, Kamehameha V tions. A massive landslide 1.5 million years 567-6088, muleride.com). If heights make you native plant species, colorful tree snails and Friday, 4 to 6 p.m. at Hotel Moloka‘i Highway (450) ago sheared off half of Moloka‘i, leaving the queasy, you might want to close your eyes the extremely rare oloma‘o (Moloka‘i thrush). world’s tallest sea cliffs in its wake. Later, a as your sure-footed steed navigates the 26 A hike along a boardwalk culminates in an Papohaku Beach Park small volcanic eruption at the base of these dizzying switchbacks. astonishing peek into Pelekunu Valley. Mark your calendar for various If Maleficent (the villainess inSleeping Beau- cliffs formed a protruding shelf of land—Ka- No matter how you get to Kalaupapa, you The last intact Hawaiian sand dune system festivals throughout the year that are ty) designed a campground, it might resemble laupapa (flat leaf) peninsula. Enveloped in must prearrange to meet Damien Tours survives at Mo‘omomi—and it is magnificent. worth attending: sea mist, the staggering cliffs, lush vegetation Papohaku. A beautiful golden beach beckons ((808) 567-6171, damientoursllc.com) at 10 Silver rosettes of ‘ena‘ena carpet the dunes, Ka Hula Piko, Moloka‘i Ranch just beyond the tent site—a fenced patch of and offshore islets are achingly lovely. But a.m. The four-hour bus tour is required and where ‘ua‘u kani (wedge-tailed shearwater) Rodeo, Makahiki, and the bare dirt covered in kiawe thorns long enough it’s the human history that leaves the biggest absolutely worth the $50. While visiting chicks hide in underground burrows. Subfos- Christmas Light Parade. Check to puncture a tire! BYOR (Bring Your Own impression here. St. Philomena Church, a small museum sils found here reveal the secrets of ancient visitmolokai.com for details. Rake). Kaluakoi Road Between 1866 and 1969, any Hawai‘i and Saint Damien’s grave, you’ll learn how times. Hikes are free but reservations are resident showing symptoms of leprosy (now clever patients made the best of their life in necessary.
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