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The cult pocket city guides and mobile Sri Lanka apps for the busy, sophisticated traveler CITI PRESENTS LUXE CITY GUIDES www.luxecityguides.com
SRI LANKA HAS HAD A The gems of this large Resplendent elephant and leopard-spotting in the deep BUMPY RIDE IN THE PAST, Isle are spread far and wide; from the south. Sri Lanka has it all, and now, BUT THIS HISTORIC JEWEL chaotic west coast city of Colombo to so do you! IS NOW ON THE REBOUND the fabulous villas and beach bungalows AND SPARKLING MORE in the south, as well as the wonderfully THAN EVER, WITH ITS atmospheric C.17th World Heritage-listed RICH CULTURE, DUTCH, Dutch colonial Galle Fort; cooler tea PORTUGUESE AND plantations, hill stations and ancient, BRITISH INFLUENCES, sacred Cultural Triangle towards the STUNNING LANDSCAPE center; unspoilt beaches and sights for the intrepid in the north and east, and AND BEACHES, AND PALATE-TINGLING FARE.
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• Best time to visit the south and • Roads and traffic are at best • Bars and clubs are required to stop west coasts is Nov-Mar; Apr-Oct is dreadful and Sri Lankans drive like serving alcohol and close at 11pm. In monsoon season, but there’s still lunatics. Whatever you do, do NOT reality, most keep on pouring until plenty of sun. self-drive. around midnight and then close by 2am.
• English is widely spoken, • Banks and ATMs are few and far what, what! between outside of Colombo, so • Beware of the local brew, arrack stock up when you can. – one is nice, two at most, three you’re under the table, four you’re in an ambulance… • Bandaranaike Intl Airport to Colombo is approx 1 hr and US$30- • The currency is the Sri Lankan 40, be sure to arrange rupee and cash is king. transfers ahead. • Most hotels and higher-end establishments add a service charge, but it’s nice to leave a • Most hotels/villas supply torches in little extra. • Keep your hotel, villa and driver’s case of power cuts. numbers on you at all times, and note that phone coverage can be patchy outside of the major towns. • The international code for Sri Lanka • If you’re taking a villa, bring a stack is +94. Landline numbers begin with of gourmet goodies and wine with 011 in Colombo, most mobiles start you on the flight, there are no with 077. • Tuk tuks are ok for short jaunts, chic delis. but bargain before you ride. Hire a car and driver for longer trips, and bear in mind if you keep your driver • In an emergency it’s best to call overnight then you may need to • Most businesses are closed on full your hotel or villa rep. Ensure that assist with accommodation costs. moon days (Poya) and national you have full medical holidays. By law, alcohol sales are evac insurance. also banned on Poya days so watch the sky or end up dry.
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LUXE INSIDER Shanth Fernando
Designer, restaurateur and hotelier, Shanth Fernando is known as Sri Lanka’s own Terence Conran, his work featuring in the world’s most prestigious press from Harper’s Bazaar to The New York Times. With his interior design and lifestyle store Paradise Road established in 1987, the brand has now grown to five stores with every aspect of design and merchandise handled by Shanth himself. In 1998 he opened The Gallery Café, which remains one of the city’s most popular bar, restaurants and galleries, and in 2007 Shanth opened his first hotel Tintagel, followed in 2009 by Villa Bentota.
www.paradiseroad.lk
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LUXE INSIDER Shanth Fernando
1) WHAT’S THE BEST TIME 3) WHERE DO YOU GO TO 5) WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE OF YEAR TO VISIT COLOMBO UNWIND AND RELAX? WHAT PATISSERIE/CAKE SHOP OR AND WHY? ARE THERE ANY MAKES IT SPECIAL? BAKERY IN COLOMBO, AND SPECIAL EVENTS TO LOOK WHAT DO YOU ORDER? OUT FOR? A walk round the Beira Lake, Independence Square or down Galle The Gallery Café is known for the November through to February just Face Green by the sea. The Beira Lake best cakes in the city. For some to experience the buzz of the city. is unique for it’s city center calm and local charm, buy ‘kade paan’ (shop Although Colombo itself doesn’t it is still relatively quiet. Independence bread) and ‘kimbula bunnis’ (sugar really have a better time of year, Square has a new walking path and buns) at Torrington Bakery at the events of interest are ‘Nawam we are able to enjoy the important 85 Thimbirigasyaya Road, while Perahera’ (February) and ‘Vesak’ (May) structures like never before. Esmeralda’s on Flower Road has the in addition to newer festivals such as Walking down Galle Face Green is city’s best cream buns! Galle Literary Festival (January) and incomparable, soaking in the positive www.paradiseroad.lk Colombo Fashion Week (February). energy of the sea and seeing different
walks of life enjoying kite flying, street www.galleliteraryfestival.com eating and paddling in the water. www.colombofashionweek.com
4) WHAT ARE 3 OF YOUR 2) WHAT DO YOU THINK ARE FAVORITE RESTAURANTS THE MOST UNDERRATED IN TOWN AND WHY? WHAT SPOTS IN COLOMBO? WHAT DISHES DO YOU ORDER? MAKES THEM SPECIAL?
The Gallery Café of course, London The Fort area and Pettah, these Grill at Cinnamon Grand and Palmyrah are areas with an energy not found Restaurant at Renuka Hotel. Order anywhere else in the city. Black Pork Curry, dessert and cocktails at The Gallery Café, Chateaubriand and any steak at London Grill and hoppers with traditional curries at Palmyrah.
www.paradiseroad.lk www.cinnamonhotels.com www.renukahotel.com
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LUXE Loves
THE DUTCH HOUSE TINTAGEL COLOMBO AMANWELLA Hotel Hotel Hotel
Set high on a hill, this dashing, four- This former prime minister’s colonial Imagine a coconut grove opening suite C.18th manor just a few minutes manse has been fabulously revamped onto a lovely crescent-shaped beach from burgeoning enclave Galle Fort on into a sultry 10-roomed pleasure of soft sand, a beautiful infinity pool, the south coast is blissfully child-free palace by local style-meister Shanth excellent service and 30 elegant, and peaceful, with elegant antiques, Fernando, complete with elegant contemporary suites, each with modern art, cool verandahs and a dining options The Courtyard and private plunge pool and terrace. Now steamer chair-strewn croquet lawn. Dining Room, plus vibrant Red Bar. have it designed, managed and run Each romantic bedroom features full Each individually designed suite is by the exclusive Aman group and you air conditioning and mosquito-net- unique in a handsome palette of have Amanwella. Divine. chocolates, stripes and neutrals, with draped 4-poster beds, with breakfast luxury bed linens and towels, and an Godellawella / Tangalle and lunch served anywhere on the extreme eye for detail as you’d expect +94 45 224 1333 property, and dinner served next door from the country’s most famous at glamorous sister property www.amanresorts.com interior designer. The Sun House. 65 Rosmead Place / Colombo 7 23 Upper Dickson Road / Galle +94 11 460 2121 +94 91 438 0275 www.paradiseroadhotels.com www.thedutchhouse.com
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THE SUN HOUSE THE GALLERY CAFE MANGO TREE Dining Dining Dining
Only minutes from Galle Fort, this Located in the former offices of prolific An accent on char-grills and low-fat former Scottish spice merchant’s and influential Sri Lankan architect recipes and a cosmopolitan setting house is now a divinely appointed Geoffrey Bawa, this ‘see and be scene’, make this splendid Northern Indian and welcoming 7-room boutique hotel semi-alfresco, low-lit lovely set around a cookery one of the busiest restaurants offering some of the most romantic glowing courtyard provides stylish and in Colombo. So you can watch your alfresco dining in the south. Try their delicious international fare, an ambient, waistline while watching the smart set famed Sri Lankan curries, sambals social bar with great cocktails and an watch their waistlines! and string hoppers on the garden upstairs gallery for a little side dish of terrace, plus signature arrack and rum culture with your lunch or dinner. 82 Dharmapala Mawatha / Colombo 3 cocktails at Dicks Bar. Book ahead for +94 11 762 0620 dinner if you’re not staying 2 Alfred House Road / Colombo 3 www.themangotree.net at the hotel. +94 11 258 2162 www.paradiseroad.lk 18 Upper Dickson Road / Galle +94 91 438 0275 THE CHECKERBOARD www.thesunhouse.com Bar 7° NORTH Bar Claim your spot on the signature, perfectly positioned, black and white RAJA BOJUN This buzzy poolside bar and checkerboard terrace or beside the Dining Mediterranean tapas-style restaurant seaside promenade with its fabulous with a sprawling alfresco deck boasts sea views at this historic hotel. It’s the Consistently good and very popular, views over Beira Lake. Wednesdays, best spot in the city for sundowners sea-view, airy dining room famed Fridays and Saturdays are the with ravishing sunsets, although bear for its delicious curry buffet, and hotspots, but do be aware there in mind the service can be rather lunumiris made of onions, dried chilli is live music most nights, so if you hit or miss as the waiters are often and fish chips ground up with salt and prefer a quiet cocktail, check out The somewhat antique. lime, that the locals will cheerfully Checkerboard instead. warn you ‘can burn your stomach’. Galle Face Hotel / Galle Road / Caveat emptor! Cinnamon Lakeside / 115 Sir Colombo 3 Chittampalam A. Gardiner Mawatha / +94 11 254 1010 Ceylinco Seylan Towers / 90 Galle Colombo 2 www.gallefacehotel.com Road / Colombo 3 +94 11 249 1948 +94 11 471 6171 www.cinnamonhotels.com www.rajabojun.lk
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PARADISE ROAD STUDIO BAREFOOT MM IBRAHIM Shopping Shopping Shopping
Where to begin? Shanth Fernando’s No trip to Sri Lanka is complete If you find yourself in Galle Fort it lifestyle store is the default stop- without a visit to this haven of hand- would be silly not to visit this most off for any stylish homemaker or dyed, hand-woven, jewel-hued fabrics, talented of jewelrs. Reputable and interior designer. From ceramics to home and tableware, bedding toys, trustworthy, ask to see the unset fabrics, glass, cutlery, linens and glass, books and art. Add a positively lovely gems and design your own bauble nothing appears in the store that little courtyard café that turns out an to remind you of Ceylon, or if time is he hasn’t either designed himself or excellent limed calamari pasta, plus short, choose from the glittering array rigorously reviewed and approved. fab cakes, and you’ve got two of life’s of chunky silver cuffs, and precious or They don’t call him the Terrence greatest pleasures covered in one semi-precious delights that are ready Conran of Sri Lanka for nothing. sweet spot. to wear.
12 Alfred House Gardens / 706 Galle Road / Colombo 3 47 Church Street / Galle Fort Colombo 3 +94 11 258 9305 +94 91 223 4253 +94 11 250 6844 www.barefootceylon.com www.paradiseroad.lk
BALLOONING ESALA PERAHERA Activities (FESTIVAL OF THE TOOTH) Activities There really is nothing quite like the perfect peace and tranquility of A riot of color and pageantry at floating in a hot air balloon over the the end of July, this perahera is the early morning, misty countryside island’s best, with ten days of exotic in the amazing Cultural Triangle of processions of elephants, dancers and Kandalama, Dambulla and Sigiriya, drummers culminating in the parading affording bird’s eye views of the of the Buddha’s Tooth. The whole of breathtaking monuments and jungle. the island packs into Kandy, where the final three days are the best, and if you Adventure Asia have booked well ahead you will be able +94 11 586 8468 to view it from a balcony room at The www.ad-asia.com Queen’s Hotel. Don’t however make the mistake of staying here overnight, and avoid being at street level at all costs.
The Queen’s Hotel / Kandy +94 81 223 3026
www.queenshotel.lk
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SRI LANKAN ROADS HUMIDITY LUDICROUS
AND DRIVERS Run to those hills to escape! INTERNATIONAL Absolutely insane! FLIGHT TIMES Highly inconvenient, not to mention tiring.
ALCOHOL SALE BANS ON POYA DAYS
Dull dry spells, so make sure you stock up.
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Drab vs. Fab
ARRIVE IN STYLE SIGHTSEEING KANDY CLIMB
Bone shaking rides across poor country Seeing the Cultural Triangle by foot can The long and tortuous uphill journey roads to get to your destination are an be a hot and tiring affair, but imagine to Kandy can be a nightmare by road, all too often occurrence in Sri Lanka, but seeing the Cultural Triangle in your very so consider jumping aboard the fab old treat yourself by chartering a Sri Lankan own hot air balloon! Well, you can with Viceroy Express and steaming up to Kandy Air Taxi and arrive in style and Adventure Asia. on board a classic locomotive. in one piece! www.ad-asia.com www.jftours.com/viceroy-vintage-train-tours www.srilankan.com
SAFARI WATER BORNE A visit to Yala National Park can be a Hiring a luxury yacht to go whale and very long and exhausting experience, but dolphin watching is great fun, but better visit on one of Kulu Safaris very stylish yet consider hiring a simple sailboat from tent tours, and you’ll do it in comfort and Mirissa Water Sports. All the young staff luxury. Also available for Wilpattu and are tsunami survivors and your custom elephant-filled Udawale national parks. helps their education and employment. www.kulusafaris.com www.mirissawatersports.com
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LUXE ITINERARY Romance
The opening of the Southern Expressway see the unset gems and design yourself a wishing to draw up a chair at the bar in means that it now only takes an hour bauble to remind you of Ceylon in years to Amangalla, the seriously stylish colonial (down from 4 hours) to visit Galle on the come. Lunch! You can’t work on an empty hotel in the fort, before heading back up south coast and its fascinating, 400-year stomach, and Galle Fort Hotel is perfectly the hill and a welcome alfresco supper old Dutch colonial fort, so it’s feasible placed when shopper’s shoulder sets in the garden at The Sun House and final to make a day trip, but why not treat in. The delightfully spiced menu of the nightcap at Dick’s Bar. Careful with those yourself to a romantic stay at the divine Dining Room will soon have the wind back arrack-based cocktails! Dutch House (see LUXE Loves). Once in your sail, so to speak. For something there, zip down the hill and into the fort truly lovely and memorable, while at the for an amble in the atmospheric and same time being charitable, give Mirissa buzzy colonial streets. You’ll find plenty of Water Sports (see Drab vs Fab) a call, and shopportunities, but be sure to look out get out on the beautiful ocean for some for Mimimango for lovely drifty separates whale watching. The best time to spot and accessories, Barefoot for rainbow- blue whales off the coast of Sri Lanka is colored textiles, bags and homeware, between December and April, and the Olanda for some lovely salvage, custom 40-minute trip down the coast to Mirissa furniture and architectural antiques, and is charming with the ocean never far from M. M. Ibrahim for serious bling – ask to your sight. When the sun sets, you’ll be
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LUXE ITINERARY Style
There was a time when Colombo was go. There are two Paradise Road stores in discount prices it’s always worth a look at considered more as a necessary evil town (see LUXE Loves), the Dharmapala Odel Unlimited. This slightly odd mish- and somewhere to be suffered en route Mawatha branch also has a great little mash of a department store may not be to or from the airport. In recent years, café for that all important java moment. Barney’s, but dig deep and you can often however, this city has become a buzzing You’re going to be doing some serious find some nice surprises that won’t break hotspot of good dining, accommodation retail damage and so a car and driver the bank. Lastly, take a quick look around and some seriously addictive shopping, from Diethelm’s is going to be rather Raux Brothers, an excellent starter pack and now with the bonus of the super- handy to carry about all your booty. of antiques, soft furnishings, repro and swift Southern Expressway you can visit Next stop, Barefoot (see LUXE Loves) contempo furniture in teak, mahogany Colombo for the day and be home for for a huge range of colorful textiles and and iron, they’ll ship, tweak and custom supper in Galle in less than an hour. If homeware products from oven gloves design as well. With your steamer chair you plan on staying in Colombo, do make to fabric covered notebooks all in their safely purchased, it’s on to Gallery Café sure it’s at Tintagel (see LUXE Loves), signature, fabulous stripes. Tummy (see LUXE Loves) for sundowners and where interior designer and lifestyle guru rumbling? Fret not, you’re already at the supper. Stylish day, hey? Shanth Fernando hits all the glamour perfect lunch spot, Barefoot’s courtyard buttons and serves up an exceptional café is a perennial favorite away from the ambience with service to match. Want madness of the city outside, and better to shop the look? You haven’t got far to still, it has free WiFi. For designer duds at
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LUXE ITINERARY Culture
Stunning painted caverns, mountain Anuradhapura: Centered around the PLACES TO STAY citadels and big Buddhas, one ticket sacred Bodhi tree, this town bursts with gets you into three of the island’s most the remains of a once huge, ancient city Ulagalla Resort spectacular sites (your driver or guide will that was the seat of Sinhalese power. Raises the luxe bar with 25 mahogany arrange this for you), but there’s stacks terraced chalets with private plunge more to see if you don’t mind beating Dambulla: Brave the bats and venture into pools, scattered across the isle’s largest about the bush. You’ll need at least two endless caverns encrusted with Buddhas solar farm. days to see it all. Remember to remove and frescoes at the best preserved cave shoes and hats and cover legs and temple complex in Sri Lanka. Kandalama shoulders when visiting religious shrines Built overlooking the rock fortress of or places of worship. Yapahuwa: For an Indiana Jones setting, Sigiriya, Geoffrey Bawa’s masterpiece of go see these untouched stone ruins modern design melds beautifully into its Sigiriya: This 200m-high clifftop citadel is standing like Aztec pyramids amid surroundings. Stay in the Sigiriya Wing a real challenge of a hike, so be smart and amazing jungle foliage. suites if you can, and make full use of the balloon or heli over it (see LUXE Loves). Six Senses spa after your cultural The Elephant Gathering at Minneriya Lake: days out. Polonnaruwa: A rambling complex of Aug and Sep see the highlight of the ruins set in a leafy park close to a lovely pachyderm social calendar when over ancient reservoir. Go early to marvel 400 trunked types converge. at the huge standing and reclining Buddha statues before the crowds get there, but watch for those naughty, thieving monkeys.
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LUXE ITINERARY The Essentials
ROMANTIC ITINERARY STYLISH ITINERARY
• Dutch House • Galle Fort Hotel • Tintagel (see LUXE Loves) 28 Church Street / Galle Fort (see LUXE Loves) +94 91 223 2870 • Mimimango www.galleforthotel.com • Paradise Road Corner of Pedlar St and Lighthouse (see LUXE Loves) Street / Galle Fort • Mirissa Water Sports +94 91 223 4765 (see Drab vs Fab) • Diethelm Travel Sri Lanka www.joedenmimimango.com www.diethelmtravel.com/srilanka • Amangallaa • Barefoot 10 Church Street / Galle Fort • Barefoot 41 Pedlar Street +94 91 223 3388 41 Pedlar Street / Fort Galle Galle Fort www.amanresorts.com/amangalla/ +94 91 222 6299 +94 91 222 6299 home.aspx www.barefootceylon.com www.barefootceylon.com • The Sun House • Odel • Olanda 18 Upper Dickson Road / Galle Fort Former Dutch Hospital Building / 30 Leyn Baan Street / Galle Fort +94 91 438 0275 shop 6 / Bank of Ceylon Mawatha, +94 91 223 4398 www.thesunhouse.com Fort Galle / Colombo 1 www.olandafurniture.com +94 11 244 8873 • Dick’s Bar www.odel.lk • MM Ibrahim Gems & Jewelry 18 Upper Dickson Road / Galle Fort 47 Church Street / Galle Fort +94 91 438 0275 • Raux Brothers +94 91 223 4253 www.thesunhouse.com 7 De Fonseka Road / Havelock Town Colombo 5 +94 11 533 9016 www.rauxbrothers.com
• Gallery Café (see LUXE Loves)
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LUXE ITINERARY The Essentials
CULTURAL ITINERARY
• Ulagalla Resort Thirappane / Anuradhapura +94 011 440 0404 www.ulagallaresorts.com
• Kandalama 11 Dambulla / Dambulla +94 066 555 5000 www.heritancehotels.com
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Your LUXE notes
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