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(Turmeric and Annatto) on Silk Fabrics Using Eco- Friendly Mordants *Mamatha G

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(Turmeric and Annatto) on Silk Fabrics Using Eco- Friendly Mordants *Mamatha G Application of Medicinal Dye (Turmeric and Annatto) on Silk Fabrics Using Eco- friendly Mordants *Mamatha G. Hegde, N. Goutham Faculty of Art and Design, M. S. Ramaiah University of Applied Sciences, Bangalore 560 054 * Contact Author e-mail: [email protected] Abstract The present research focuses on extraction of medicinal dye from Turmeric root and Annatto seeds and its application on silk fabrics using eco-friendly mordants Garcinia indica fruit shell and Alum. The art of dyeing with vegetable dyes gained momentum not only from the point of safety of health and environment but also for their beauty and novelty. ‘Silk” is a valuable textile fibre prized for its unique properties like luster, sheen and hand. A large number of potential natural mordants are available, but very limited number of researches have been conducted on natural mordants. Considering the drawbacks of synthetic mordants there is need to explore new natural mordants to minimize the use of synthetic mordants. Medicinal dye had been extracted from commercially available Turmeric root and Annatto seeds by neutral media. The extracted dye had been used for dyeing of silk fabrics using eco-friendly mordants i.e.; Garcinia indica fruit shell and Alum by simultaneous mordanting techniques. Dyed Silk fabric samples were tested for various fastness tests such as fastness to washing, fastness to dry, wet rubbing and dry cleaning. Key Words: Natural Dyeing, Medicinal and Eco-friendly Dye, Turmeric, Annatto, Safe Mordants Garcinia Indica, Alum States and regions have many things that are exclusive to 1. INTRODUCTION them and when used correctly, become the reserve of that “Nature is the art of God”- Thomas Browne, Religio Medici. region. Application of Turmeric and Annatto colours with Nature is the source of all the riches on this planet and is full Garcinia indica mordant on silk fabric has not been explored of fascinating colours without which life would have been by textile industries. Hence the research was conducted to dull and monotonous. Colours have fascinated man right from create more awareness and utilize seasonal natural resource. pre historic times. Man has tried to use colours in whichever The dye obtained from the turmeric and annatoo is highly way possible in his life. The uses of colours have been medicinal and helps to overcome many health hazards such as undergoing a process of evolution. Textile materials are dermatological diseases, carcinogenicity etc. faced by the usually coloured to make them attractive. consumers of present generation. The dye obtained is bio degradable, nontoxic, environment friendly, aesthetically According to Umbreen [1], Turmeric belongs as a member to appealing, yields high luster and has aromatic smell. the curcuma botanical group, which is part of the Ginger family of herbs- the Zingiberaceae. Curcumin was identified as responsible for most of the biological effects of turmeric. 2. PROBLEM The annatto colour originates from the evergreen shrub Bixa orellana, named after Francisco de orellana. Approximately Dyestuffs are made from synthetic organic chemicals which 50 annatto seeds grow inside prickly reddish-orange heart are made from basic chemicals which are highly carcinogenic. shaped pods at the ends of the branches. During manufacturing of synthetic colours and during dyeing process many carcinogenic chemicals are required. The Silk fabric is becoming famous and popular because of its byproducts formed were discharged in to the rivers, ponds or unique properties. According to an old Chinese legend, Silk in the atmosphere. There are more than 50 carcinogenic originated about 2700 B.C on the banks of the Hwang. chemicals which are banned by most of the countries. The Kanwar [2] says that “silk fibre is relatively lustrous, smooth, present requirement for natural dyes in USA is about 10,000 light weight, strong and elastic”. The characteristics of Silk tons which is equivalent to 1% of the world synthetic dyes has made it to be known as “queen” of fabrics and for many consumption [4]. A large number of potential natural centuries this have never been equaled in any other material. mordants are available, but very limited number of researches Garcinia indica is a type of tree widely grown in the slopes has been conducted on natural mordants. Considering the and plain of evergreen forests of Western Ghats in south drawbacks of synthetic mordants there is need to explore new India. The fruit of the tree is purplish red in colour having natural mordants to minimize the use of synthetic mordants. acid pulp is available as an industrial by product (Food Synthetic mordants may give a deteriorating effect on the industry). fibres [5]. The industrial by product Garcinia indica fruit In 1856 the reactive dye produced from coal tar by an English extract and alum had been used as a mordant for dyeing of Chemist Perkins lead to a new era in synthetic coloring. silk fabric with turmeric and annatoo colours. Usage of Natural dyes are considered eco-friendly and heading towards industrial by product is a novelty of the invention. Today’s a period of renaissance. “Natural dyes are being looked at as market is fledged with variety of fabrics. Selection of suitable an ‘eco- solution’ to the ill effects of synthetic dyes. Natural one is most important Ayurvastra produced from Turmeric dye needs a substance such as metallic salts, tannins and oils and Annatto dyed fabrics with suitable eco-friendly mordant to create an affinity between the fibre and the pigment and is Garcinia indica fruit extract and alum is most suitable because called as mordants” [3]. it will directly touch with body pores. The medicinal dyed silk MSRUAS-SASTech Journal 33 Vol. 14, Issue 2 fabrics with safe mordants have great market potential in introduced into the dye bath. The temperature of the bath is textile industries. slowly raised to 80⁰C and dyeing is carried out for 60 minutes (Fig. 2) and shade cards are shown in Fig. 3. 2.1 Chemical Compositions of Dyes and Mordants Turmeric: Curcuma longa contains Curcumin as natural pigment. It belongs to diaroyl –methane group and consists of three gold-coloured alkaloidal curcuminoids; curcumin, desmethoxy curcumin and bisdemethoxy curcumin [6]. Annatoo: Composed of the carotenoid pigments Bixin and norbixin and their esters. The pigments that produce this yellow to orange colour range are the carotenoids, trans bixin and norbixin [7]. Garcinia indica fruit: Garcinia indica fruit rind is rich in Garcinol, a polyiso prenylated benzophenone along with this it contains hydro citric acid (HCA) and oxalic acid.The pericarp fruit hull contains the xanthone derivatives [8]. Alum: (KA (SO4)2. 12(H2 O) Fig. 2 Schematic representation of dyeing process Alum is a naturally occurring metallic mordant. It is available in 2 forms ie Aluminum potassium sulphate and Aluminum ammonia sulphate. Aluminum potassium sulphate is used as a mordant for dyeing [9]. Pictures of turmeric, annatto and kokum fruit and their applications are shown in Fig. 1. Fig. 3 Shade cards Techniques: Dyeing was carried out by Simultaneous mordanting technique by using four methods and shade cards were prepared - a) Controlled Sample: In this method only the Turmeric and Annatoo colours were used for dyeing silk fabrics without using any mordants. b) Garcina indica mordanted sample: The Silk fabrics were mordanted with Garcinia indica extract while dyeing with Turmeric and Annatoo colours. c) Mordanted with the alum mordant: Silk fabrics were treated with alum mordant while dyeing with Turmeric and Annatoo colours. Fig. 1 Application of turmeric, annatto and kokum d) Mordanted with Garcina indica and alum mordant: 2.2 Methodology Silk fabrics were dyed with Turmeric and Annatoo colours. Objectives: To extract the medicinal dye from Turmeric and Soaping Techniques: Annatto and its application on silk fabrics using eco friendly Required amount of water is heated to 45⁰C and calculated mordants. Preparation of shade cards and testing for colour quantity of natural soap (Rita Soap) is added and the sample fastness properties and Colour measurements. is washed for 5-10 minutes, Rita Soap solution is drained, and repeatedly washed with cold water and dried under shade for Materials: Silk fabrics, Turmeric roots, Annatoo seeds, 24 Hrs. Garcinia indica fruit shells and Alum. Testing: Methods: Dyed fabrics were tested for various colour fastness Extraction of dye and dyeing process: From Turmeric root properties - washing (colour change and colour stain), rubbing and Annatto seed dye components were extracted by neutral (dry and wet) and for colour measurements values. media. Degummed silk fabric was dyed with extracted dye solution using Garcinia indica fruit extract and alum mordant. Simultaneous mordanting and dyeing process was carried out. Dye solution and mordant solution is taken as per the material liquor ratio and heated to 60⁰C and the fabric to be dyed is MSRUAS-SASTech Journal 34 Vol. 14, Issue 2 3. RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS Fastness Tests: Turmeric and annatto dyed silk fabrics were tested for wash fastness (staining and colour change), rubbing (Dry & Wet), dry cleaning, perspiration (Acidic & Alkaline) and sun light (Table 1). Silk fabric dyed with Garcinia indica fruit mordant and alum combinations showed excellent fastness to washing ie; for colour staining when it was treated with Garcinia indica fruit and alum mordant combination. Turmeric and annatto colors showed excellent fastness property for rubbing and dry cleaning. Excellent fastness to dry cleaning was observed when it was dry cleaned with per chloro ethylene. Good fastness to acidic and alkaline perspiration is also observed in the result. Silk fabric dyed with turmeric and annatto colour with combined mordant showed good light fastness. Results showed that Garcinia indica fruit extract can Standard-Undyed, Batch1-Turmeric, alone act as a mordant for dyeing Turmeric and annatto Batch 2- Controlled, Batch 3 - Annatto colours and it improves the fastness properties.
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