PLYMOUTH YARN® 1180
SOCKOTTA Baby Cardigan, Hat, and Socks
PLYMOUTH YARN® 1180 SOCKOTTA
Baby Cardigan, Hat, and Socks To fit chest size 16 18 20 inches Actual Finished Chest Measurements 18½ 20½ 23 inches Actual Finished Length 10 11 12 inches Hat –around head 13 14 15½ inches Materials: Sockotta – If making 2 color version- 2 to make 2 to make 2 to make 100g balls add 1 ball of other color. See directions for 2 set set set color version at end
Gauge: 28 sts = 4” on US 3 needles or size necessary to obtain given gauge. Needles: US 2 & 3, 5 buttons. Size US 3 double pointed needles for socks. 2 color version: Use contrasting color for all ribbings, and cuffs.
1 x 1 ribbing: Row 1: P1, *(k1, p1), repeat from * across. Row 2: K1, *(p1, k1), repeat from * across. Repeat rows 1 and 2 for pattern.
CARDIGAN BACK: With smaller needles, loosely cast on 65 (73, 81) sts. Work in 1 x 1 ribbing for 10 rows. Change to larger needles and work in st st. until total length is 10 (11, 12)”, ending with a WS row. Bind off. RIGHT FRONT: With smaller needles, loosely cast on 33 (37, 41) sts. Work in 1 x 1 ribbing for 10 rows. Change to larger needles and work in st st until total length is is 7½ (8½, 9½)”, ending with a WS row. Shape neck: BO 4 (5, 6) sts at the beginning of the next row. Dec 1 st at the neck edge of the next 5(5, 6) rows, then every following alternate row until 21 (23, 25) sts remain. Continue even until same length as the Back. Bind off. LEFT FRONT: With smaller needles, loosely cast on 33 (37, 41) sts. Work in 1 x 1 ribbing for 10 rows. Change to larger needles and work in st st until total length is is 7½ (8½, 9½)”, ending with a RS row. Shape neck: BO 4 (5, 6) sts at the beginning of the next row. Dec 1 st at the neck edge of the next 5(5, 6) rows, then every following alternate row until 21 (23, 25) sts remain. Continue even until same length as the Back. Bind off. SLEEVES: With smaller needles, loosely cast on 41 (43, 45) sts. Work in 1 x 1 ribbing for 8 rows, increasing 4 stitches evenly across the last row of ribbing: 45 (47, 49) sts. Change to larger needles and work in st st while— AT THE SAME TIME: Begin increasing 1 st at each end of 5th and every following 4th row until there are 57 (61, 65) sts. Work even until total length is 5 (6, 7)”, ending with a WS row. Bind off loosely. FINISHING: Sew shoulders seams together. With smaller needles, pick up and knit 71 (75, 79) sts around neck. Work in 1 x 1 ribbing for 16 rows. Bind off loosely. Fold neckband in half and tack down loosely inside. Sew in sleeves, and sew up side seams. Button Band (left front for Girl, right front for boy) With smaller needle, and RS facing, pick up 53 (61, 69) sts along appropriate front edge. Work in 1X1 ribbing for 7 rows. Bind off neatly in ribbing. Buttonhole Band (right front for Girl, left front for boy) With smaller needle, and RS facing, pick up 53 (61, 69) sts along appropriate front edge. Work in 1X1 ribbing for 3 rows. Buttonhole row: Rib 6 sts, yo, k2tog, [rib 8 (10, 12) sts, yo, k2tog] 4 times, rib 5 sts. Work in 1X1 ribbing for 3 more rows. Bind off neatly in ribbing. Sew on buttons to correspond to buttonholes. Weave in all ends.
HAT: With smaller needles, loosely cast on 89 (99, 109) sts. Work in 1 x 1 ribbing for 8 rows, increasing 2 sts evenly across the last row of ribbing: 91 (101, 111) sts. Change to larger needles and work in st st until total length is 4 (4½, 5)”, ending with a WS row. Begin decreasing as follows: Row 1: *(K8, k2tog), repeat from * across to last st, k1. Row 2 and all even rows through row 12: Purl. Row 3: *(K7, k2tog), repeat from * across to last st, k1. Row 5: *(K6, k2tog), repeat from * across to last st, k1. Row 7: *(K5, k2tog), repeat from * across to last st, k1. Row 9: *(K4, k2tog), repeat from * across to last st, k1. Row 11: *(K3, k2tog), rep from * across to last st, k1.
PLYMOUTH YARN® 1180 Row 14: P1, *(p2tog, p2); repeat from * across row. Row 15: *(K1, k2tog); rep from * across to last st, k1. Row 16: P1, *(p2tog); repeat from * across row. Cut yarn leaving a 12” tail. Draw yarn through remaining sts, pull up tight and anchor. Sew up side seam. Weave in all ends.
SOCKS Note: When slipping stitches, always slip as if to purl, except for the SSK.
CUFF: With one needle, cast on 28 (32, 32) sts. Divide onto 3 needles. Being careful not to twist the sts, join and work in the round as follows: K2, P2 around. Work in K2, P2 ribbing for 3 (3½, 3½)”. Knit 3 rounds. At beginning of next round divide for heel. DIVIDE FOR HEEL: Transfer sts around so that there are 14 (16, 16) sts on the first needle, and 7 (8, 8) sts on each of the other two needles. Work back and forth across the first needle ONLY as follows: Row1: (Slip 1, K1), repeat across. Row 2: Slip the first st, PURL ACROSS ALL THE REMAINING STs. Repeat these 2 rows for 14 (16, 16) rows total, then work row 1 once more. The heel will be 15 (17, 17) rows long. TURN HEEL: Row 1: Purl 9 (10, 10) sts, p2tog, p1, TURN. Row 2: Slip 1, k5, k2tog, k1, TURN. Row 3: Slip 1, purl to 1 st before the last turn (you’ll see a small gap where the last turn was), p2tog, p1, TURN. Row 4: Slip 1, knit to 1 st before the last turn (look for the gap), k2tog, k1, TURN. Repeat rows 3 & 4 until all sts at the ends are used up, ending with a knit row. There will be 10 sts left. GUSSET: Continuing to work on the same needle, pick up and knit 8 (9, 9) sts along the side of the heel (needle 1). Using a new needle, knit across the sts on the next 2 needles (needle 2). Using a new needle, pick up and knit 8 (9, 9) sts along the other side of the heel, and continue knitting to the center of the heel sts [5 sts] (needle 3). There should now be 13 (14, 14) sts on needles 1 & 3, and 14 (16, 16) sts on needle 2. The center of the heel is the beginning of the round; needle 2 contains the instep sts. Begin decreasing as follows: Round 1: Knit. Round 2: Knit to within 3 sts of the end of the first needle, k2tog, k1. Work across second needle in st st. On third needle, k1, SSK, knit to end. Repeat rounds 1 & 2 until there are 7 (8, 8) sts left on both needles 1 & 3. Needle 2 will remain at 14 (16, 16) sts since no decreases take place there. You will now be back to the original # of sts [28 (32, 32)]. Begin to work even again, until length from back of heel is 3 (4, 4)”. TOE SHAPING: Rearrange the sts on the needles, if necessary, so that there are now 7 (8, 8) sts on each of needles 1 & 3, and 14 (16, 16) sts on needle 2. The beginning of the round is still at the center back of heel. Begin decreasing: Round 1: On needle 1: knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On needle 2: K1, SSK, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On needle 3: K1, SSK, knit to end (center of heel). Round 2: Knit. Repeat rounds 1 & 2 until there are 16 sts left [4 sts on needles 1 & 3, and 8 sts on needle 2]. KITCHNER STITCH: Continuing to knit with needle 3, knit to the end of needle 1. There are now only 2 needles in use, 8 sts on each. Cut the yarn, leaving 18”. Thread it onto a blunt needle. Hold the 2 needles parallel, you will now have a front needle and a back needle. Always keep the yarn beneath the needle as you work. Step 1: Go into the first st on the front needle as if to knit, pull the st off the needle. Step 2: Go into the second st on the front needle as if to purl, leave st on the needle. Step 3: Go into the first st on the back needle as if to purl, pull the st off of the needle. Step 4: Go into the second st on the back needle as if to knit, leave the st on the needle. Now you have 4 new sts to work with. Repeat steps 1 - 4 until all sts are woven. Anchor on inside, weave in ends. Make a second sock; counting rows to make sure it is the same length.
©2007 Plymouth Yarn Company. Designed by JoAnne Turcotte. All rights reserved. No portion of this design may be photocopied or stored in an electronic retrieval system without prior written permission. 081507jbt